is there an easy way to calculate my number of 2x4 needed? Right now, for the part of the basement I want to finish for the start of the project, I have roughly 120'. I will get 20 2x4x8 treated lumber, since I know I will need it later anyway. With that said, I have the rest of my walls, 20 more for the tops, and then I calculated...160' x 12" = 1920". then 192" / 16" o.c. = 120.

Is my math accurate, 140 2x4x8 plus the 20 treated, to get my framing done. leaves some room for error. and everything.

then, for drywall, I have an area that is 26x20, so, 520 sqf ceiling, then 3 walls 20x7.5 = 450 sqf and 2 wall 26*7.5 = 390sqf

1360 total sqf / 32sqf per sheet = 43 sheets, so I figure get 50.

I was going to call a place this afternoon, but since I have never done a bit of construction in my life, I figured to run my numbers past some other people before doing so, to make sure my calculations are accurate for both what I need to start as well as leaving room for error.

I'm having trouble figuring exactly the size of your room, but since you already have 20, 8 ft'rs in mind for the bottom and 20 for the top that equals 160 ft you mention. I would get 1 stud for every foot of wall space. Assuming you put your studs on 16" centers you will have enough left over for extra supports in the middle and for additional framing around your door(s). You'll be surprised how much wood it actually takes.

160 ft of wall space = 40 sheets of drywall assuming no waste. I don't know what you ceiling needs are. It also sounds like you don't plan on doing double drywall... if you read enough on this forum I think you'll find out that double drywall (DD) is a good idea assuming you are taking the other precautions to control the escape of sound to other parts of your home.

And if you don't have any construction experience you may want to find a friend to help.
Best of luck.

smakovits

First off if you don't plan on getting all framed within a week I would only order the amount you think you will be able to get installed. My experience with the lumber today from any of the big box stores is that it will warp on you if you don't get it up within a few days of purchase. so having a stack of over 100 warped 2x4's would really suck :(

I took quite a few back to the store. About 10% of mine were unusable after a few days, so I used them for Jack studs or for soffits as I was able, then I took the rest back. Big Blue took them back without a question.

CJ

thats a good thought about them getting warped. certainly wont be done in a day or two. Plus I would go through a small local place and get 6 dollar delivery seeming as my maxima wont do me any good hauling lumber. I guess I can get a few, like say 50 for starters, that would be a good start, maybe like 1 wall plus a portion of another. While big box places might take them back, I think it would be harder with a local place. So Start with 50, see what I can do and go from there. In talking to them, delivery is like 1-2 days from time of call depending on how busy they are.

Also, seeming as I would still have to frame, and run wires and everything, I wont be ordering any drywall at this time.

Also, I know the whole trick with the plastic now for the moisture test, if I dont see any visible moisture, can I just avoid a vapor barrier all together, or is it still a good idea to have one? If so, does it go against the cinder block, or after the insulation?

For quick estimating of studding... Use 1 stud/ft when figuring out how much you need. You will then have enough for jack studs, corners, etc...

how much is the difference if we buy 2x4 from a real lumber store as compared to HD or Lowes? Or is the one from the real lumber also going to warp?

Looks like the ideal approach would be, buy the amount you are planning to install, install it within 2 to 3 days.

Awesome thread!!! ;)

I just brought home (in the outback) 40 or so studs at a time. That was usually enough to keep me busy for a weekend. Even now that major framing is done I still end up picking up the odd half dozen or so every once in a while. Anything that I had laying around longer than a week was almost unusable. Wood prices fluctuate a bunch as well. Right now I'm paying 1.82 per stud. At the beginning it was closer to $2.30.

Now if you were planning on using metal studs, then order everything at once.

Now if you were planning on using metal studs, then order everything at once.

One thing I have certainly not seen on this forum is metal studs. I have only seen one build thus far with metal suds. Not sure why, but people here seem to prefer the wood studs, or at least thats how it seems to me.

I only went with wood because of the number of odd soffits I needed to build in the entire basement and because I had the wood tools (miter saw, nail gun...). Metal studs would have been easier for standard wall framing.

I would recomend that you try not to use 8' material for your plates. Get the longest, straightest material you can because the fewer joints you have in your plates, the straighter your finished wall will be.

Spend the extra money to get kiln dried studs, because you will have less warping than if you buy "green" lumber. All lumber twists and warps, doesn't matter where you buy it or what grade it is, so don't waste your money buying No. 2 or better. Keep in mind that there are many easy ways to fix a bowed or twisted stud once it is installed, so don't buy a ton of extra material.

You should call around to some local lumber yards to see what their prices are for the material you need. Since lumber is a commodity, the prices can fluctuate daily, but HD and Lowes buy in such large quantities they do not always reflect recent market decreases because they have to burn through the material they purchased when the market was higher.

Chris

The problem I run into with the longer pieces is the space I have to get them into the basement. the stairwell is right at the end of a hallway with a wall directly across, so i have to take it in carefully at an angle, while I might be able to get the long piece in, I think I am better off with the shorter 8' pieces. Not to mention given my experience level, I rather start small. most of the walls are going to be against the cinder block any way, so i am hoping those are straight as it is....

I got the wood into the basement by passing through a window. Could that work in your house?

...I walked mine in the back door (even drove the car to the door - unless it was too wet).

:D

CJ

nope, no window, well glass block with the little window in the middle so i suppose that could possibly work through there, but that would certainly require people at both ends.

Your local code authority isn't requiring you to install an egress window?

Don't assume or count on the block wall being straight. Make sure you check it for square and plumb before you start.

Your local code authority isn't requiring you to install an egress window?




This is how the house was built, and it is how I bought it. Cant imagine it would have passed code in the first place if it was required. Not to mention, we all know full well nobody is going through that window anyway...I went through an old one when I was a kid, now as a full grown adult at 6'4" theres no way. But then again I could be wrong

Until recently, egress window were rarely mandated unless the local building officials pushed the issue. In the last 5 years or so, the building industry pushed to adopt a uniform code so things would be consistent for component manufacturers. The new IRC code requires egress windows in any basement that has finished space.

I do not know where you live, but most municipalities will require you to bring the home up to current code if you are remodeling.

The new egress windows actually work very well and are much better than the ones that were used 10+ years ago. I am 6'5" and can get in and out of them quite easily because we use those windows to bring in all of our materials from wood to drywall to flooring to avoid damaging other areas of the home.

When are basement had some DIY work done, code required us to add egress windows.

Let me third the need for an egress window. Our house didn't have them either. I had to add one the moment I did ANY sort of work in the basement. I document the whole process in my thread.

I for one wouldn't want to be trapped in a sound proof theater with on alternative egress option if the first floor (basement stairs) were on fire.

I suppose I will be calling the city today then...I have to call them any way because I am planning to pull the permit for electrical and such...Do I need actual plans to get a permit? or can I just call them.

Second, the window doesnt have to go into my theater areas does it? If I need to put one, can i put it in a part of the basement that will remain unfinished?

You don't need it in the theater unless you plan on listing it as a bedroom. My egress is in another part of the basement. You do need to usually have rough plans - floor plan, window size, number of outlets, number of circuits, etc.

I'll see if I can find what I used as a guide. My county had a nice little guide for the DIYr.

edit: Here it is... http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/basements/

Ditto to what Cathan said. Window does not have to be in the theater room itself unless it is identified as a bedroom.

You will most likely need some type of plan showing existing equipment, fixtures and structure and the new additions, but most do not require them to be of architectural quality. Sketch-Up is works just fine to create a plan to submit.

I used a hand drawn floor plan (used a ruler for straight lines). They wanted 1/4 inch = 1 ft scale. They also wanted two copies, one they stamp for you to keep and one they keep on file.

I just called the city, and because it is not a bedroom, an egress window is not needed. I told her I planned to finish the basement and they said that is fine, as long as it is not a bedroom.

I know it's an added expense, but seriously consider putting in an egress. Put it this way, what's your plan should the stairs out of the basement not be usable in a fire?

Hide...No, I see your point, but at the same time, what are the chances that my stairs will be on fire. Electrical fire maybe, but otherwise nobody smokes in the house and I always make sure to unplug the deep fryer. I mean, yes it would be smart, but is the cost worth it? Yes if the fire burns down, and I think there are the what ifs for everything.Do you happen to know a rough cost to put one in? I looked at a few online and given my basement line, I would have to do a ton of work building a well and then channeling the water from the house. I mean I dont see it as a few hundred bucks

Mine cost be $4000 for the labor of digging a huge well and the window. But I'm in a part of the country with crazy high labor rates. Even if I didn't need it for code, I would have put one in for piece of mind. Small chance of fire, sure. But it does happen. And if it does I don't want a guaranteed death because I didn't put in an egress.

If you want pictures of the process, I documented it in my thread.

First, if you can get finger-jointed studs, those will be straighter and they are friendlier on forests.

Second, invest in an egress window. It is for your safety and for the safety of firefighting personnel.

Apparently it is your call though.

I used a hand drawn floor plan (used a ruler for straight lines). They wanted 1/4 inch = 1 ft scale. They also wanted two copies, one they stamp for you to keep and one they keep on file.

I'm the next county over from Big and I went in with the forms I printed off the county's internet site and plans from the computer program I was using. They said, "we don't need that. Just take this form, draw the plan and answer these questions on these forms...." The questions were, how many circuits, lights, how many plumbing fixtures, etc and an estimate of cost. And when I threw out a number, the guy said, "is that how much it will cost to drywall? That's all we need to consider it finished or I have to charge more (wink, wink)."

It took me longer to sit down and hand draw the forms than it did to stand in line to get the forms and stand in line again then to pay.

Good luck,
Tom

In terms of doing the framing for my Riser and Stage, I am not going to be able to bring a complete 2x6 or 2x8 down into the basement where my theater is going to go. The stage is going to be 10' wide and the riser is 8' wide. In order to get it into the basement I will have to cut it in half. Now what do I need to connect the boards back together once I get them into the basement? I was looking at the framing in my garage which is not drywalled and I saw these metal plates connecting 2x4's together but I have no idea what the technical name for them is.

You don't have to bridge them together, just build your 10ft or 8ft wide stage and riser in 2 or more pieces as if they were standalone items.... then just nail them together. Use your plywood (wow, how big of a piece of plywood can you get down there?) to bridge the joint where they meet.

Well the plywood would have to be cut to a smaller size before I could bring it in the house or down in the basement for that matter. I probably would need several small pieces to get it down to the basement to complete the riser and stage.