Just a few initial RS2 ceiling mounting question, for those that would care to help. Thanks! :D

1.) The screen is wall mounted and level. My PJ will needs to be mounted slightly above the screen. What do you use to align the center of the screen with the center of the projector lense to get it as close as possible and before I drill holes in the ceiling for the mount?


2.) I have low ceilings so I need a mount the drops the PJ as little as possible from the ceiling, yet I would like a mount that would allow some left to right sliding of the PJ in case it is not perfectly centered and allow for pitch adjustment to get keystone correct. Which one is best for an RS2?


3.) For initial alignment, is it best just to use the internal grid on the RS2 or use my AVIA 16:9 grid?


4.) Once PJ is mounted, I need to make sure the lines on all four sides are being displayed evenly on the screen(No Keystone adjustment) before securing the PJ to the mount tightly. How can this be done prior to V-Shifting the image if the image displayed is not yet totally on the screen?

5.) What grid did you prefer to use to focus the lense?


6.) Does the RS2 have a grid for convergence alignment or am I better off using the AVIA disc here?

I just ceiling mounted my RS2 last weekend. Here are my observations:

1.) The screen is wall mounted and level. My PJ will needs to be mounted slightly above the screen. What do you use to align the center of the screen with the center of the projector lense to get it as close as possible and before I drill holes in the ceiling for the mount?

Ans: I used a parallel side wall to measure from. Then, since walls are never straight, I verified the location by making sure the mounting center was equidistant from each top edge of the screen. The mount center aligns with the center of the lens.


2.) I have low ceilings so I need a mount the drops the PJ as little as possible from the ceiling, yet I would like a mount that would allow some left to right sliding of the PJ in case it is not perfectly centered and allow for pitch adjustment to get keystone correct. Which one is best for an RS2?

Ans: I would try not to mount the PJ above the screen. The ideal location is in the middle, which is usually impossible, but shoot for that goal. I mounted my PJ 20 feet from a 110" screen and was able to drop the lens center about 13 inches from the ceiling and still clear the heads of observers sitting on platform seating. I was able to do this with a little less than an 8 ft ceiling. The bottom of the PJ is just over 6' off the floor.

The least lens distortion and chromatic aberation are obtained with the least offset from the center. The position adjustments on the PJ are used to shift the display off center horizontally and vertically, you don't have to move the entire PJ. Keystoning only occurs if you tilt the PJ, so keep it level and aimed squarely at the screen and use the shift adjustments for final alignment.

I used the Chief model RPM184 mount and a Chief model CMS115 ceiling plate. These both have 1 1/2" pipe threads so you can tailor the drop to your needs. I used an 8" pipe to obtain the 13" drop. The RPM184 has the ability to move on all axes for perfect alignment. It can also be mounted directly to the ceiling without the plate or pipe if you absolutely have to minimize the drop. It won't be easy to lock the adjustments if you don't use any pipe drop. you'll need a long screwdriver or very small hand!

I used a stable step ladder to set the PJ on for testing before permanent mounting and was surprised by how low I could mount it without interference from viewer's heads. I chose the 6' ground clearance so (most) people could walk under it.


3.) For initial alignment, is it best just to use the internal grid on the RS2 or use my AVIA 16:9 grid?

Ans: I had no trouble using the internal test pattens. The grid worked for alignment, but I used a full screen display for zoom adjustment.


4.) Once PJ is mounted, I need to make sure the lines on all four sides are being displayed evenly on the screen(No Keystone adjustment) before securing the PJ to the mount tightly. How can this be done prior to V-Shifting the image if the image displayed is not yet totally on the screen?

Ans: As mentioned above, you just need to level the PJ using a carpenters level, making sure that it is perpendicular to the screen. This is easy when the PJ is upside down, just lay the level on the PJ. If you tilt it you will generate keystoning. Once level, you use the V-shift adjustment to center it.


5.) What grid did you prefer to use to focus the lense?

Ans: I used the grid you select to enter zoom & focus mode. The grid lines are two pixels wide. Standing about a foot from the screen I adjusted focus by looking at pixel edges on both horizontal and vertical lines and adjusting for the best edges in both directions.


6.) Does the RS2 have a grid for convergence alignment or am I better off using the AVIA disc here?

Ans: I assume you are referring to the pixel shift adjustments. I did not do any adjustments to them. None of the test patterns would be very good for these. I was disappointed that the grid is only in green, I would have preferred white. I also have no HD source for test patterns and I wouldn't trust an SD source to adjust an HD display. I have an order in for the Bluray Digital Video Essentials, but it won't ship for a few weeks.

I hope this helps, good luck with your installation.

Yes it helped lots!

My PJ will be sitting just above row 2 in my HT-room, and row 2 is on a platform. So lowering the PJ to much will put it in the way, forget about even mounting it center with the screen, I would assume that would be in everyones way regardless of room size. So I guess I will need to get a long screw driver.

Getting the mount centered perfectly is a challange since as you said the walls are not straight when measured that closely so can't really use them.
I am going to try using the top screen corners to the center of the mount. Measuring tape wont work since it droop's, maybe taught fish line to make sure the mount is equal distance to top sreen corners should be close enough, what do you think?

A trick for centering...take a string and hold it lens to upper right corner, then lens to upper left corner. To be centered the string length must be identical if it is centered.

Cant measure from lens, since PJ not mounted yet, but I guess using those same principals is what Earlyadopter was saying to screen corners. I am trying to markle the cieling spot first for the mount.

Earlyadopter I was going to order that Blu-ray video essentials as well, but wanted to see if AVIA had one.


P.S. Jason I might be looking for you real soon for another possible Stewart Screen.

Ah, well then do this.

Figure out the distance you want the lens (based on the throw. Take the same string from the screen corner to that distance, and put a piece of painters tape to mark it. Then take the string of the SAME length from the other corner and mark it. Go back and forth until they line up...that is where the lens should be.

As far the DVE high-def version goes, I didn't think that was out yet... at CES, I ran into Joe kane in the Samsung booth demoing a new projector for days on end, and he said that his DVE disk was very buggy and he didn't know when it would be out. He kept using it here and there to show off the projector and it would lock up half the time - it appeared to be a nice disk with some slick stuff on it however.

Brian

4.) Once PJ is mounted, I need to make sure the lines on all four sides are being displayed evenly on the screen(No Keystone adjustment) before securing the PJ to the mount tightly. How can this be done prior to V-Shifting the image if the image displayed is not yet totally on the screen?

Ans: As mentioned above, you just need to level the PJ using a carpenters level, making sure that it is perpendicular to the screen. This is easy when the PJ is upside down, just lay the level on the PJ. If you tilt it you will generate keystoning. Once level, you use the V-shift adjustment to center it.


PJ is level on the mount using a carpenters level, but if the image is not yet 100% on the screen since the PJ is slightly higher than the screen the image is not centered yet. At this point one can't tell if you have any type of keystone effect yet. Is it O.K. to use the V-shift at this time to see if it is in fact perpendicular to the screen, and if not rebalance the PJ using the grid on the screen?

As far the DVE high-def version goes, I didn't think that was out yet... at CES, I ran into Joe kane in the Samsung booth demoing a new projector for days on end, and he said that his DVE disk was very buggy and he didn't know when it would be out. He kept using it here and there to show off the projector and it would lock up half the time - it appeared to be a nice disk with some slick stuff on it however.

Brian

Apparently (or maybe that should be hopefully) it has been de-bugged. I just ordered it on-line at DVD International (http://www.dvdinternational.com/) for shipment on the 24th of this month.

Ozzie,
You can shift the image around and even zoom out to get everything on the screen to check alignment. I haven't noticed any change in display geometry due to shifting or zooming. As you probably know, it is easy to find the center of the V & H shift adustments, they get loose when in the center, so its easy to get back to no shift.

I still recommend that you try to lower the PJ, even a small amount if possible. If you can stand up on your platform without hitting your head on the ceiling, you should be able to drop the mount a little. If you are up against the rear wall and can't move the PJ behind the rear seating, the RS2 design allows for mounting within a couple inches of a rear wall, since venting is is on the front & bottom. You just need enough room for connections at the rear. This means that you should be able to position the PJ over the seats. Just don't invite basketball players to sit in the rear!

Earlyadopter

When I stand on the platform, the top of my head has 3 inches before it would touch the PJ. They way it would sit now the lens is 2 inches above the top of the screen. That should be within tolerance for a small shift. I just can't see anyone actually mounting the lens dead center with the screen to get it with no aberations, unles one does a rear projection mount with it.

Are you guys making sure the ceiling mounts hit a stud or is drywall strong enough?

Ozzie,
Mounting above the top of the screen isn't a "small shift". 0% shift is at the center of the screen, so mounting at the top or bottom is already a 50% shift. You do have 80% available, so above will work and a couple inches won't matter that much. I agree that center mounting is not practical in most cases.

Chief recommends two 1/4" lag bolts, 2" long into a ceiling joist for mounting. I would never hang a projector only from drywall. I used 2 1/2" lags and made sure I hit the joist dead center by drilling small test holes on either side of the joist. The mount covers the test holes. A stud finder will get you close, so you don't have to mess up the ceiling with a lot of holes. Predrill into the joist so you don't split it with the lags.

NEVER only do it in drywall. Even with anchors rated at 100lbs...it WILL NOT BE SAFE. Remember, drywall anchors are designed for vertical surfaces, not horizontal. They work by giving more grip than a screw alone can do. But their strength comes from say 5' of drywall below (when mounted on a wall). When they go into the ceiling, you now only have about 1/2" of support so the rating is useless.

Sorry many people don't understand that so I always jump in if it comes up. :)

Well it seems rather difficult to get 4 lag bolts in such a small area and have them all hit a 2 X 4. Sounds like I need to have a wood panel up there behind the dry wall. I beleive those 2 X 4's are 12 ro 14 inches apart from each other, so their is no way you can get all lag bolts on 1 beam.

I think you'd have to put some additional beams in between the existing studs.

Although the mounts have 4 bolt holes, you only need to use the two that align with the joist. Two 1/4" lags into the center of a joist to a depth of at least 1 1/2" will safely support the projector. To get 1 1/2" into the joist, add the thickness of the drywall and the thickness of the mount to 1 1/2" to determing the minimum screw length you need.

A little trick that's useful is to cut the rock slightly less than the footprint of whatever product your working with and slide backing in the hole you just created. The longer the backing piece the better, screw your piece of drywall back in and cover it ( this is where the the slightly smaller cutout shines, ie no taping) with your product. This is done all the time with casework when no stud is present to fasten to, works great.

I think you'd have to put some additional beams in between the existing studs.
Absolutely!. Especially if you will be adding a lens/sled combo in the future. I would not rely at all on just a backing board up above the drywall.

Chris

Okay added extra wood between the beams for sled support!
The bad news is it sounds like JVC is unresponsive to add the V-Stretch mode to the remote. :( So if that is the case I may not be doing 2:35, since I do not want the expense of a VP as well.

Although the mounts have 4 bolt holes, you only need to use the two that align with the joist. Two 1/4" lags into the center of a joist to a depth of at least 1 1/2" will safely support the projector. To get 1 1/2" into the joist, add the thickness of the drywall and the thickness of the mount to 1 1/2" to determing the minimum screw length you need.

Just want to double-check this... definitely only two screws into a joist are necessary? Thanks.

...
Sorry many people don't understand that so I always jump in if it comes up. :)

Before it comes down. :rolleyes:

Okay added extra wood between the beams for sled support!
The bad news is it sounds like JVC is unresponsive to add the V-Stretch mode to the remote. :( So if that is the case I may not be doing 2:35, since I do not want the expense of a VP as well.

Well you could do some crazy macro. :(

Not too happy with JVC's response regarding that request and other RS232/Remote requests. There is definitely a disconnect between the Japanese office and the US.

Just watch though. All the things that we complain about that would be a minor firmware update for the RS2 will become a bullet point new feature for the RS3. :rolleyes:

My RS2 automatically goes into v stretch when it detects a Blue Ray disk at 20

My RS2 automatically goes into v stretch when it detects a Blue Ray disk at 20

Please expound.

Cameron: I have a Panasonic Blue Ray Player. And it is set to output 24fps. And when I put in an HD disk, the VStretch function is activated without me doing anything. I do have to put it back into non-stretch if I put on a 16x9 piece or switch to satellite. The guy who installed it was as surprised as anyone??

audioguy check the firmware number your unit has.

This is the first I have have ever heard of it doing that. The manual says you should be able to select V-Stretch by simply using the "Aspect" button on the remote if your source is 1080, however it does not do that. I have never read nor heard of one going there automatically.