Hey Everyone,

I am almost finished my theater. I am about to tackle my screen wall and have a few questions.

* Screen is 2.35:1- 140" x 59"- Accoustically transparent
* DIY screen frame- 4" poplar and L brackets

1) Should I install black GOM over the entire screen wall including behind where the screen will be mounted? How do I attach it? I know with staples but do I have to make panels?

2) How much space should I leave between the screen to where my walls begin to angle for my front speakers?

3) I am using 2x4's for the screen wall frame...whats the best way to mount the screen frame to the actual wall frame?

4) Can I just make MASKING panels that fit in the groove of my screen frame or is this a no no?

thanks for any advice!
WS

1. No need to do behind the screen. If you want to get behind there again (recommended), make some panels that will attach with industrial velcro to the studs.

2. Try to leave at least 6-8" between the face of the speaker and the screen fabric

3. Depends on what you want. You can do it plain on the front and build the fabric frames flush. You can recess it into the wall and make it flush with the back for a shadowbox effect. Or, you can mount it to the rear of the wall for more of a shadowbox effect.

4. With an AT screen, you have to be careful with masking panels or they'll kill the highs in your speakers.

Bryan

Thanks Bpape!

If I dont do behind the screen how do I meet the screen with the other section of GOM? So the GOM panels fit in FRONT of the studs and not in between them?

The fronts will actually be beside the screen with only the center in behind. So in that case would my idea with the masking panels be ok? What is the furthest apart Fronts could be? My room is 18' wide...

thanks,
WS

Look at the specs for your speakers for placement. Your manual should tell how far apart they should be. Some speakers its a triangle. Left speaker, center listening position and right speaker equal distances apart is common.

the main point of doing an AT screen is to get realistic sound FROM the screen. are you doing a 16:9 or a 2.35:1 screen? I have all of my fronts behind my SMX screen and I set mine at the edges of the 2.35:1 screen just inside it, and I prefer this set up, others have set them just inside the 16:9 image space so that they have no problem with masking for 16:9 covering the speakers.
Your sound will not be as realistic if you have the speakers to close to the side walls of the theater and too far from the screen.

I will be doing 2.35:1 and masking for 16:9. My problem is I have a cold cellar that takes a chunk out of the corner of my room.

Here is a pic:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/aquariumobsessed/Basement.gif

My 139"- 2.35:1 screen will travel past the JUT OUT. This means I can't put the 2 fronts behind the screen unless they are very close together. My room is 17'6" so take off my screen and I have 71" left or 35" on either side of the screen.

WS

Any suggestions?

thanks!

I feel like i have posted this a thousand times (forum regulars will probably shaking their heads, saying, "that is because you have:)), but here is how I did my wall. Hopefully you can gain some insight from the pics.


This the front wall treated with 2" OC and corner base traps. I was able to see reflections off the front wall insulation thought the AT screen so I put some speaker grill cloth from partsexpress behind the screen. You can see the wall framing (I used 1x?) a la BigMountinDC's minimalist screen wall approach. You can also see half of the French cleat (the unpainted wood) used to hang the screen. I painted the floor and ceiling black behind the screen.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/IM004967.jpg

Here are the frames I made with beveled edges. These were covered with GOM black and velcroed to the screen wall frame.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/IM004989.jpg

All the frames in place, before being covered with GOM.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/IM004992.jpg

Wall put together:
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/IM004994.jpg

The screen on the French cleats actually sit about 1-1.25 inches off the wall framing. This allowed a gap for the side and lower panels to slide behind the screen border. This added a little flexibility for uneven walls and uneven construction. Basically, the fabric panels could be moved a little here and there to get everything to look nice and get the seams to line up.

The end result:
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/IM005124.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k181/mbgonzomd/theaterpano.jpg
Make sure you allow for carpet height when building your frames (I did not allow enough, arghh, so I had to make some adjustments after the carpet went in).

I feel like i have posted this a thousand times (forum regulars will probably shaking their heads, saying, "that is because you have:)), but here is how I did my wall. Hopefully you can gain some insight from the pics.

Actually I was thinking "Showoff". ;)

Actually I was thinking "Showoff". ;)

LOL, and your point is????:D

THANKS Mbgonzomd.

That helps alot!

WS

Ok, So as I under stand it? I have room for a 9' screen width.
Do the calc. it come out as
2.35--107.2 w
45.6 h
16.9 107.2 w
60.3 h
As you can see the 16.9 format has a Higher screen. So why would I build a screen for 2.35 format when the 16.9 is a bigger screen.
I do have plenty of room in the height.
If I build a 2.35 screen and play a 16.9 DVD I unerstand my Mit. HC6000 can simply be set for 2.35 and the format will fit the screen
BUT why? would it not be better to watch the 16.9 movies if the larger Higher screen?
Am I missing something??
Thanks

tgamble,
You may want to read some of the sticky in the constant height forum. 2.35 can be a complicated subject and there are several things to consider prior to jumping in.

Typically, when doing 2.35, you design the screen to be at a constant height. When switching between 2.35 and 16:9 the height stays the same but the width changes. So a 16.9 image on your 2.35 screen would have black bars on the sides (easier to mask per some). I am not aware of the Mits HC6000, but typically you need an anamorphic lens to create the 2.35 image properly.

mbgonzomd
Thanks for the info.
I have been to the 2.35 and came away pretty much confused? The HC 6000 has some features ( I think) that could mask the bars.
So your saying that I should build the screen for 16.9 as no anamorphic lens is in the future.
I will do some more research. I am more of a hands on guy than a technical person.
P.S. GREAT theater you built. Can't wait to get to that point.

mbgonzomd

So your saying that I should build the screen for 16.9 as no anamorphic lens is in the future.


Yep. 16x9 unless you plan on getting an anamorphic lens. Also consider the content. If you play a lot of video games--16x9. HD television/sports--16x9. Major motion pictures--2.35 (most, but there are many that are 16x9).

Mbgonzomd, that helps me too. I had been planning a much more elaborate construction method for my wall, but see now that it is unnecessary.

Do the uncovered fiberglass panels create any dust or particles over time?

^^^nope, they should be fine. They are designed to be used within HVAC units, so I think they are safe from that perspective. You should wear protection (mask, long sleeves, gloves) when cutting them though.

Ok screen is assembled. Getting ready to build the screen wall and hang. Are 2 hanging points enough?

This screen is huge and does not feel really stable since its so big. Can I run 2 supports about 1/3 of the way from ends running from top to bottom on the back? Should I cover these in velvet?

Many of the screen wall pics show the screen very close to the ceiling. I have a 90" high ceiling but I also have an 8" bulkhead in the middle of the room. Is 8" from the ceiling ok for the top of the screen?

WS

I suspect 2 hanging points is fine (unless your screen is ridiculously heavy or large). Rule of Thumb: You want the eye level of the main seating to be level with 1/3 the distance from the bottom of the screen.