Hi,
Can anyone tell me where I can find the most complete review on HDTV antenna? Thanks.

Jim

Antenna reviews aren't the best thing to go on for antenna selection because individual requirements based on location from towers, surroundings, etc play such a large part in their performance. Start by determining your requirements and go from there. If you to to antennaweb.org or tvfool.com and look up your reception requirements here we can post you some suggestions to try.

Generally speaking, the more metal an antenna has the better it will perform.
Doing a review on an indoor UHF antenna is a bit like road testing a car in a gymnasium.

Try this site hdtvantennalabs.com (I can't post links yet). There are quite a lot of reviews.
Bigger isn't always better and a signal amp helps a lot.

I can point you to a comparison ...
http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/comparing.html

But this just compares antenna gain. A related site goes into all those other variables Matt mentioned.
http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/sizing.html

And regarding amplifiers, scroll down to the 4th and 5th topics
http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/basics.html
"Many people think adding an amplifier to their antenna will improve the performance of the antenna. The truth isn’t that straightforward. ... You might not need an amplifier if the antenna is too big. But an amplifier can never make up for an antenna that is too small." to quote the author.

If you must stay indoors (vs. attic), I'd recommend get the highest gain antenna you can fit. The 2-bay bow ties (Double bow, DB2 shown, also CM4220) outperform more aestheticly pleasing options like Sivler Sensor, Smart/SharpShooter and the attrocius MegaWave. I wish this comparison included the CM4220, since their comparable 4-bay, the CM4221, outperforms the DB4. Shop around; prices can vary almost 2x.

I would also avoid small indoor antennas with amplifiers unless you also have a long cable run, unlikely for set-top antennas.

The last piece is to follow Matt's advice - determine your requirements! Our recommendations are likely to get more specifics as you give us more data. It's possible there aren't any indoor antennas that will work for you, so trying them is a waste of time.

Have fun,
Frank
------------------
And I'll note that the links here are found in the master site holl_ands posted below.

You'll find it in the Antenna/Preamp thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=546066

If you need both VHF and UHF signals, I got good results w/ the non-amplified Terk HDTVi ($25-40 at various mail-order sites) at my sister's place a few blocks from the ocean in Jacksonville, FL. Positively refused to let me put up an outdoor rig for her (what do we know about hurricanes in Ohio, anyway?). About 10 mi. from transmitters, it sits all the way on the floor, pointing at an angle out the window, but it brings in digital HD without break-ups for her. Gives you both VHF dipoles (rabbit ears) and UHF element that doesn't look too bad indoors. Just my experience, FWIW.

I second tyromark's remarks. Had great luck with the Terk HDTVi. The Philips Siver Sensor is a little cheaper, but lacks the rabbit ears for VHF reception. And yes that matters even for HDTV. After the analog shutoff some stations will be using the upper VHF channels for HD.

Here's a gent who's not happy with his HDTVi
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13290002#post13290002

No personal experience with this type device, but the gain curve leads me to believe it's a good device only in strong signal areas. Jacksonville has flat, I put Camp Blanding into TVFool and every station is LOS at 35 miles and stronger than what I get 7 miles out.

Local terrain has a tremendous effect; that's why I seconded Matt's advice. The link above is a college student in a 1st floor room on the wrong side of the dorm. I'm in a local low spot, witha creek in the back yard. Tell us about your situation and the forum will have specific suggestions.

Well I tried my HDTVa in two locations in NY metro area one 26 miles away (zip 08854) with the antenna facing a glass window towards New York and the other 32 miles away( zip 08837), antenna in first floor living room facing wall, both the results are same, except for at 08837 I was not able to get WNET which is a low power station, 11kw and I also don't get it during fall/winter. All these are with the TV's built in tuner. I strongly beleive with all the 6th gen tuner, the low power station would also not be a problem. I am curious to know the gain curve difference between Philips silver sensor and Terk HDTVi/a.

fbov wrote: "If you must stay indoors (vs. attic), I'd recommend get the highest gain antenna you can fit. The 2-bay bow ties (Double bow, DB2 shown, also CM4220) outperform more aesthetically pleasing options like Silver Sensor, Smart/SharpShooter and the attrocius MegaWave. I wish this comparison included the CM4220, since their comparable 4-bay, the CM4221, outperforms the DB4. Shop around; prices can vary almost 2x."

Can you provide a little more information comparing the 2-bay bow tie and 4-bay bow tie antennas placed indoors? Fortunately, I receive a fair number of channels and subchannels with an indoor antenna; a 2-bay bow tie might be more tolerable placed in a window sill than a big 4-bay.

P.S. I tried a Terk HDTVa yesterday and brought it back to the store. It worked slightly better than a ten-year-old Recoton amplified antenna, not enough to really get the job done.

I am slightly more impressed with the non-amplified GE Optima (http://www.jascoproducts.com/products/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=19&idproduct=88) antenna, it is doing slightly better than my old Recoton. The GE Optima (http://www.jascoproducts.com/products/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=19&idproduct=88) gets honorable mention as the only indoor antenna on which I can reliably receive KCTS (a PBS station).

However, in my condo location I sense that the only solution that will provide dependable strength on all of the local channels will be a somewhat unsightly 2-bay outdoor UHF bowtie placed in the north-facing window.

I'm a big fan of testing; try before you buy. (I really should try one of these little LPDAs ... maybe when I get my coupon?)

Would you be more amenable to a 4-bay if you could hide it in a closet?

Aluminum siding and stucco mesh are great reflectors, but wood or vinyl sheathing isn't much worse than a metal-framed window. In the right house you don't need to use the windows. The 4-bay will have 3dB more gain than a 2-bay, and there's a lot of metal in the reflector (to donnyjaguar's point).

There's a nice thread here on antenna making, and we're not necessarily talking sophisticated.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=798265

What I suggest is to make one and see if it works. If it does, spend the $25 or so on a commercial 4-bay secure in the knowledge that it'll work as well or better than what you tested. (Or just leave yours in the closet.)

HOWEVER, don't make the one shown at the top of the thread; it's an upper UHF design - 7" bay spacing and wisker length give a peak gain at Ch 88. Use an 8" bay separation and 8" wisker length, spread to 5.5" and you'll be very close to Channel Master's design.

So, grab a 2x4, 4 wire hangers, aluminum foil, some hardware and a balun and go at it!

When time permits, I will set up either a two-bay Antennas Direct DB2 or Channel Master 4220 in in the north-facing window.

In the meantime....... Big Lots stores is selling a $9.99 TriQuest Model 8040 Amplified Indoor Antenna which actually performs as well as quite a few other indoor antennas I've evaluated. The TriQuest possesses a reasonably thick UHF loop, an amplifier which to be competent, and actually seems to resist signal fade slightly better than some other indoor antennas.

Using this $10 no-name amplified aerial, I pulled in slightly more stations than with many of the other RCA, Terk, Radio Shack indoor antennas I've tried. The TriQuest resembles Radio Shack and RCA brand name antennas, which sell for much higher prices. None of these antennas have particularly impressive workmanship or fit-and-finish.

For less than the price of three gallons of gas, the Big Lots $10 TriQuest Model 8040 powered indoor antenna might work in your location for OTA DTV as well as pricier name-brand aerials. YMMV.

FYI: Here is an indoor antenna test conducted by an official UK organization:
http://www.ricability-digitaltv.org.uk/test-reports.htm

Too bad manufacturers keep changing the outside label for the SAME antennas....
At least the UK report has pictures....

Hollands: terrific link to UK test results. Too bad most of the brands are unfamiliar here in the States, but the pictures are helpful in case there is a similar U.S. product (i.e. the Philips models). Wonder if the high-rated, low-cost Telecam TCE 2000 and TCE 2001 might show up for sale here in the colonies?

The indoor $4.19 Radio Shack 15-234 UHF Outline Bow-Tie Antenna (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=family&pg=1&summary=summary&cp=2032057.2032187.2032189.2032204&productId=2062017&accessories=accessories&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=summary&searchSort=TRUE&custRatings=custRatings&features=features&y=12&retainProdsInSession=1&s=A-StorePrice-RSK&x=14&support=support&tab=custRatings#showReviews) is worth trying. While searching for a local store which carries an Antennas Direct DB2 or Channel Master 4220, I bought one of these. It works better than most of the indoor antennas I've used.

You will need a little gidget to convert the 300-ohm flat lead to a 75-ohm coax output, probably something you already have in your box of cables and goodies at home. You'll have to figure out how to get it to stand up; also, the 300-ohm flat lead is only 3 feet long, limiting placement flexibility. Actually worth trying particularly if you are in a strong-signal location.

When I was in an apt. I used CM-4221 4-Bay hidden behind a chair in the LR
and a old "Hoverman" hung on a curtain ring in the BR. [Bigger is better.]

Fol. sequence of posts discuss NEC simulation results for new and improved
"Zig-Zag" Hovermans vs 2-Bay, 4-Bay and 8-Bay antennas:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13382616&highlight=hoverman#post13382616
Advantage of the Hoverman is it's a simple DIY project optimized for CH14-51.

PS: My current "indoor" antenna is a CM-4228 8-Bay located in a storage room/attic.

=============================================
Before that I used the DTA-5000 Smart Antenna with the Sylvania 6900DTE HD-STB.
I found UHF performance roughly equivalent to a 4-Bay...and very "space age" WAF.

Some of the new NTIA CECB $40 Coupon eligible SD-STB Converter Boxes include
the Smart Antenna Interface:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13396676&highlight=feature+list#post13396676
More on Smart Antennas, which lock on to signals in desired (multiple) directions
and can suppress some multipath:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13015675&highlight=dta-5000#post13015675

If you like that one, see if you can find one of these:
http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/DoubleBow.html

When I got a DTV, I was amazed how nicely a single bow-tie OTA antenna worked ... some of the time, so I went looking. When Radio Shack proved unwilling to sell me the little double bow above, I went with a small Yagi, but kept reading. I'm now a great fan of multi-bay bow tie performance.

...
Fol. sequence of posts discuss NEC simulation results for new and improved
"Zig-Zag" Hovermans vs 2-Bay, 4-Bay and 8-Bay antennas:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13382616&highlight=hoverman#post13382616
Advantage of the Hoverman is it's a simple DIY project optimized for CH14-51.
...

Can we assume the Hoverman-as-wall-treatment was from your bachelor days?

Aside from aesthetics, the Hoverman is just another antenna design, and from a DIY standpoint, much more complex than basic bow-ties with screen reflectors. It's important to understand the source of it's "superior" performance is just a change in design goals!
(from the Hoverman modeling thread at
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=694399&postcount=32):
" ... Kq6qv also pointed out that the CM-4221 was designed for the UHF Ch 14-69 range and if it's gain characteristic was maximized for the new UHF Ch14-52 range, it would be better than the SingleBay Gray-Hoverman." (emphasis added)

The key to channel range optimization is the element spacing/element length:
- 8" in the CM4221 gives a Ch 66 peak gain
- 9" should move that to Ch 52 (where I built)
- 10" should move that to Ch 40

Note that the elements of a Hoverman are 10" apart, it's peak gain channels are in the mid-40's and gain rolls off above Ch 52 - a far better optimum post-transition than current designs, but equally achievable using them.

Frank

When I was in an apt. I used CM-4221 4-Bay hidden behind a chair in the LR I just set up a CM-4221 in my north-facing window and am evaluating it. While it won't be a panacea for a bad location, I'm getting FAR less signal fluctuation and signal loss than with the typical indoor antennas. I'll have to fiddle around with placement and how to secure it, minimizing the visual impact on my living space.

I don't anticipate going back to rabbit ears.

The indoor $4.19 Radio Shack 15-234 UHF Outline Bow-Tie Antenna is worth trying.... You will need a little gidget to convert the 300-ohm flat lead to Actually worth trying particularly if you are in a strong-signal location.
The more I've fiddled around with trying to "get lucky" with various antennas placed in my condo - the more I've noticed that on strong local stations, this gets the absolute most signal strength, and stays locked, more than most anything else I've used indoors.

After moving into a development with an antiquated analog only cable system I started doing my research into OTA antennas running into a KWorld ATSC/QCAM tuner with VGA and component out (but sadly, only stereo audio) for a hair over $50, going into my Westy LVM-37W3. I don't get 5.1 audio, but the PQ is excellent. But that only happened when I hooked up the antenna.

The antenna... The same one you can see on YouTube video (YTv), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWQhlmJTMzw. It's a DIY project that cost $12.50, and about two hours. I spent a bit more time straightening out the coat hangers (because I am anal that way).

There is an upgraded DIY antenna, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8jsDxNgHn4 that uses PVC as standoffs, from the wood's modest dielectric value, but I personally wonder at the math that yields 10" whiskers instead of the 8.625" I calculated (11,802,852,673.92[the true speed of light in inches]/636,250,000[frequency on the mid range of the UHF channels in my area]*0.93[velocity factor of steel])=17.25" bent mid-point into the 'V' you see in the videos. If I were to do this again, I would integrate the standoff design into the new one. But I am not going to bother, as I pick up 40 total channels from Miami to Fort Pierce but only(!) 30-35 come in regularly - YO. Luckily, I live between the Miami and WPB in southeast Florida, and all the broadcasters are either directly north and south of me, or are so close that being off axis does not matter (and besides, I think they are in the side lobe gain area anyway). Oh yes, I omitted a reflector to maintain bi-directionality at the sacrifice of a few dB.

I cannot find the link, but some guy had measured the well regarded Channel Master CM-4220's dimensions to use as a guide. The phase lines are 1.2" apart, of .100" (10 gauge) copper. I used 10 ga. Romex, straightening out the 3' length before pulling the two conductors out of the sheath (keep the ground wire safe for later). The second YTv shows keeping the crossing of the phase lines away from each other instead of close crossing them over like in the first YTv. No need to worry here, two wires at 90 degrees will not radiate one to the other. Careful 45 deg. bends in the phase wires as you work out from the center will take care of this issue. I did not bother to strip the conductors, despite knowing that the dielectric value of the plastic affects the capacitance, but I am not THAT anal. He also measured the CM-4220 spacing between the whiskers' mounts at 8", not the 9-1/2" in YTv2. As I did not see YTv2 before my build... Still, I was following the CM build. I used 4.75" as the spread between the whisker ends (calculated for a 33.75 deg angle, between 45 & 22.5 degrees) for not better reason than my belief that regardless of the broadcast antenna's orientation, one whisker set won't be too off axis for capture. I am sure an antenna geek might say oterwise, but I am getting up to 40 channels!!!

Still, this is a UHF antenna. VHF gain, in a word, sucks. So I took a piece of coat hanger, 26" long (plus a bent eye to go under a washer and aroung the screw) for VHF-Hi half-wave, and the leftover piece of copper ground wire 36-1/4" (plus) for quarter-wave VHF-Lo. Where did I put them? Where the balun attaches to the phase lines. One going out to the right at 90 degrees, the other to the opposite phase line (yes, only one per phase) sticking out the other way parallel to the ground when the antenna is erected. I cannot say for sure that this is the best way to go, but as the wavelengths of the collectors do not match I assume high SWR and low loss from re-radiation. Real world - it works just fine, thank you.

No matter. My hybrid DIY antenna kicks butt, cost more than it needed to, as I could have scrounged all the parts, and looks like primitive art attached to the top of my wall unit. And did I mention... I get 40 total channels. If I did not get such good reception from an indoor antenna of modest overall proportions, I would try the Gray-Hoverman DIY.

JeffLL

Hi Jeff, you might want to check out the huge sticky thread (in this forum) which started a couple of months after the last preceding post in this thread:

EV's Best Top Rated DTV Indoor Antenna Review Test Round-Up Guide (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1037779)