superjv1080
03-14-08, 10:55 PM
Just got a Samsung LN-T5281F LCD TV. This thing is ~ 90lbs. Got it online with a free Samsung WMN 5090 motorized wall mount.
The instructions give the basic "make sure your wall can support the mount and TV" useless info. I know they want to skirt any liability but I've found it impossible to Google some info on what constitutes "reinforced". Sure I could rip out my sheetrock and add 2x4s and steel plates and Jedi mind tricks to encourage the wall to hold a truck.
So I've measured and taped off where the TV and mount should be.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0314081921.jpg
I've got the studs mapped out and the mount position taped off within the TV tape. Since I plan to put the mount directly on the studs (read that somewhere on these forums that this would be better), I decided to go ahead and cut out the place for the mount to at least see what's up inside the wall.
So......
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0314081958.jpg
Hopefully, you can see the two studs. This is an interior wall and vaulted ceiling. The kitchen is on the other side of the wall with the oven and a tile back splash. Sure don't want to ruin the new back splash during this mounting quest.
Here's the mount that I got with the TV.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/01010201150001020820080314de4a9f836.jpg
So can anyone pass along their advise and knowledge about what might be considered "reinforced" for putting a ~45lb articulating mount holding a ~90lb LCD ~9" from the wall? I figured I could put a 2x6 parallel to the TV behind the mount since the instructions say to add 2 screws to the left and right studs but also add a screw along the top between the studs. So 5 screws. Studs are 16" on center.
Do I need to go to the degree of adding extra 2x4s to each supporting current stud along with the 2x6 cross-brace?
Fuzzybear50
03-15-08, 11:58 AM
I don't want to give you some bad advice but what you have described will probably work. Look at www.premiermounts.com and they should give you the installation recommendations. Just to give you some perspective, I have a 40" sammy bolted to a single stud with 4 lag bolts and there are not problems. Remember, when you remove the TV stand, the weight will be significantly reduced.
superjv1080
03-15-08, 01:28 PM
I did come across a post in the flat panel forum about mounts. I did get an added idea that a guy used by putting a 1/2" plywood section spanning 2+ studs. His issue was that the studs were off center for what his TV/mount position needed to be. So he nailed the plywood onto the studs and then put the mount on the plywood.
That got me thinking. Not that I have the same off center issue. It's that I was originally thinking I would cut out more sheet rock and add a couple extra 2x4s onto the mount 2x4s. In doing that, I would put 2x10 boards between the two main 2x4 supporting studs and between the two studs to the right. My purpose there was to have something behind the openings in the mount.
Here is a composite I made by scanning the mount and TV from the user guides and overlaying them to scale to determine the top of the mount vs. the top of the TV (since I first measured eye level to center TV).
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/TV-MountOverlay-small.jpg
So since I'm now thinking of avoiding all the sheet rock work with the addition of the extra 2x4s, I need something to hide the open wall behind the mount. So I'll still go with the single 2x6 parallel with the TV and add a 10x28" 1/2" plywood piece within the cutout (the size of the mount). I'll then paint the plywood black to match the mount and then put the mount screws through the plywood and into the studs and 2x6.
Over support? Maybe. Better more than less. Skipping the uber support concept of extra 2x4s and cross braces, I'll certainly save time with skipping the drywall work. The right opening in the mount looks like a good place to put a PowerBridge port. Since that opening is between studs, I'll be able to make use of the plywood to mount it. I used a PowerBridge on my bedroom 32" LCD. What a concept. I'll also use Wiretracks behind the base boards (also like I did in the bedroom) to run wires to my closet (moving my gear out of the room and out of sight) that is about 3' to the left of where the TV is taped off above.
gores95
03-15-08, 05:39 PM
Looks very good. Do us (me!) a favor and keep this thread updated as you proceed. I got the same free mount offer but bought the 5271 TV. Crutchfield right?
Anyway the TV comes in another couple of weeks so I have had lots of time to contemplate the best way to mount this on my wall. Similar situation except my stud is directly behind the center of the TV and then 16" apart. So the trick for me is to keep the TV centered on the wall.
superjv1080
03-16-08, 10:03 AM
Yes, Crutchfield. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to avoid store names or not. I know they don't want any advertising. At least direct advertising.
I'm about to head off for Home Depot to get what I need. I hope to have this done today. The Samsung mount has a "Center" mark on it just to the left of the right stud hole. So you may be looking at your TV center being just off 1.5" to the left.
I was fortunate to catch the 5281F on what looked to be a few days with a $450 price drop. Woot! The LCD back lighting was what I was waiting for. I figure the 5271 would be the same exact size so the overlay above should work for you as well. The mount top was 9" below the top of the TV. I ordered mine on a Sunday night and could have received it the next Saturday but was out of town so I had to get it the next Monday. So one week for shipping.
superjv1080
03-16-08, 07:59 PM
So I got the 2x6 put in between the main mounting studs. Then I painted the 1/2" plywood piece (pre-sanded) black and mounted it to the studs.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0316081507.jpg
Unpacked the Samsung mount:
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0316081506.jpg
Put the mount in with the included hardware:
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0316081731.jpg
Here are some side views.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0316081727a.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0316081728.jpg
Here's a pic when the mount's arm is at 90 degrees out. At this point, the TV center is off to the left 8 1/4" from the center TV line on the wall mount.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/Copyof0316081736.jpg
The mount hole to the right is where I'll put the PowerBride outlet. That's later. For now, we had our Sofa and Loveseat picked up this morning so we decided to get a Rug Doctor to clean the empty room. Haven't seen it like this for 9 years.
Next step will be to take the base board out and mount the speakers. Then I can determine the cable length needed to allow motorized mount movement + the run to the closet.
superjv1080
03-16-08, 10:28 PM
Put the TV on the mount. No pics to post yet. The right side is 3/4" lower than the left side. So I'll have to take the TV back off and then loosen the 5 bolts and adjust the right side up. The other option in the mount's manual is to put something between the TV mount brackets and the mount arms that those brackets go on.
The mount on the wall is level. So glad I got this free with my TV purchase. There's no way to be happy with a $800 mount that isn't level. Considering the weight of the TV (82 lbs without the stand) and an articulating arm, it's not a huge surprise. It's just more work.
there isn't any way to adjust the level.
I have an articulating arm mount and there are a bunch of adjustments for level that can be done.
By the way, its mounted to two studs with four lag screws in each stud (8 total) and I can hang on it when it is fully extended (180 lbs) without any issue.
I'm guessing your mounting technique will be fine....
superjv1080
03-17-08, 06:22 PM
So the TV is on the mount. Plus found a way to make up for the 3/4" sag on the right side.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0317081806.jpg
I've been a casual road and mtn. bike rider over these years. I figured I needed some hard rubber to put under the right TV mount hooks. Went out to the garrage to look through the things I had. What do I find to work some magic? Break pads. So I put one break pad under the top and bottom right TV mount hooks. See the pic below with the arrows.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg173/superjv1080/0317081808.jpg
Now the TV is level on both sides. I'll have to check the level when the TV is moved out and angled to either side. At least it's level now. I don't like having to rig expensive hear but it was a solution. Now I'm just sitting in a fold out camping chair until Friday when the new furniture comes in.