Here are some screen shots of calibration results. In the end the picture just isn't acceptable. It look better if I just go through the settings and "eyeball" everything. From looking at the results of calibration can someone see why the picture quality is mediocre? Delta e is good overall, temp is perfect, rgb is good ofcourse, luminance seems to be good. Gamma is a little confusing in that with everything "perfect" it only averages 2.0


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you brightness is a little too high.

This is causing your gamma to be low.

lumanance and gamma are measuring the same thing, they are just different ways of expressing the same values v targets.

So when your gamma is low, your lumanace is high and vice versa.

You need to drop your brightness a couple clicks.

As for the other issues with the calibration can you describe them?

What kind of display are you calibrating?

What probe did you use?

BTW you can save the whole calibration file and post that instead, it give people a better look at what you've done.

Greetings

Have a good grayscale is only part of the battle if you set the brightness and contrast wrong. Graphs won't tell us if you are clipping or crushing.

Regards

where i can get this software? and how i can conect to the tv?

where i can get this software? and how i can conect to the tv?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983943

Hi,

Explain a bit about the picture being awfull......

Do colors look off?....

Dimitri

This is a Samsung Plasma. Im using the Spyder II. What I mean by the picture being awful is this. Imagine applying a very subtle white filter over the entire tv screen, actually kind of like everthing is just a little too bright as stated above, but also that the clarity (high def) factor is diminished as well. The brightness measurement as posted below is on the low side so that is a bit confusing. Also, at these settings, such as the gain/offset, Im having more of the colored speckle issue in the dark areas of the picture. I've sent the plasma in for repair concerning that since it is more of a voltage issue than a setting issue, but the settings exacerbated the problem. What measurements exactly would you recommend that I'd post? I'll have to get the tv back from repair before I could run further tests.

Picture setting: Standard
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 45
Sharp: 33
Color 50
Tint: 50
Tone: Normal
Red offset: 17
Green offset: 15
Blue offset: 13
Red gain: 1
Green gain: 22
Blue gain: 1
Black adjust: off
Dynamic Contrast: off
Gamma: 0
Color space: auto

--- Imagine applying a very subtle white filter over the entire tv screen, actually kind of like everthing is just a little too bright as stated above, but also that the clarity (high def) factor is diminished as well. ---That sounds like the basic grayscale is way off - both the brightness and contrast settings are too high. You have to adjust the brightness (black level) first, before you adjust the contrast (white level). These two adjustments interact with each other, and sometimes have to be repeated many times, before they are correct (or even close).

A lot of problems occur, because these two get reversed - they don't "sound" correct (Brightness ==> Black Level, Contrast ==> White Level).

PS -- Always adjust Brightness and Contrast (and get the grayscale correct) before you do any other adjustments.

I don't agree that there is much interaction with brightness (black level) and contrast (white level). It is very slight and I have yet to adjust one for the other when using my Display LT colorimeter with the HCFR software. But I do agree that this is my starting point and end point.

I generally set contrast to produce 30 - 35 ft-L light output on my rear projection TV, per Tom Huffman's calibration guide. You do have to be careful with contrast because a higher contrast setting can have some negative side effects. For instance, I see some loss in color and gray scale accuracy when I get above a 90 contrast setting.

Once you have finished with your color and grayscale adjustments, go back and check contrast and brightness. Your upper end (gain) gray scale adjustments will impact contrast, and your lower end (bias) gray scale adjustments will impact brightness... and it can be significant. During my last calibration run, I had to adjust my black level 3 clicks due to my gray scale bias (offset, in your case) adjustment.

This is a Samsung Plasma. Im using the Spyder II.

It is possible that your Spyder II is just way off. It is generally acknowledged that this colormeter is marginal and accuracy from unit to unit can vary quite a bit. You may want to consider stepping up to a Display LT or even an Eye One Pro. I will probably move up a notch myself sometime this year. I think the Display LT has been giving me good results, just judging the improvement by eye and the consistency of my results. Still, I am finding that I really enjoy the whole calibration process and better equipment should produce even better results.

rtucker913,

From what you describe, you may be noticing the lack of contrast due to your gamma being low at greater than 50 % intensity. Try lowering the gamma setting down 1 or 2 notches (-1 or -2) - assuming the plasmas behave like the Samsung LCDs. See if this gets you closer to a linear gamma response of 2.2. Gamma also dips right at the end just a bit - lowering contrast should shift things left to right some and help also with this. Just keep in mind that these changes will also affect brightness/black level and gray scale tracking. You will need to re-tweak these. Also, at the other end, your gamma is dipping quick at 10 % intensity - this may mean that brightness is set a bit too high - if you have a dvd calibration disc with a black bars pattern on it, use this to set brightness. You want the setting where the bar just above black in intensity is barely visible. Avia/Avia II have such patterns and I believe Tom H's calibration guide includes a link to his dvd which I think includes such a pattern.

Overall your grayscale tracking looks good - all I can see if perhaps ticking blue down a notch in the high end - but it looks like you don't have much headroom left on that control if it's currently set to 1. If you still don't like the look of things, I'd try the following experiment - start off by lowering 100 % intensity white down to 30-35 ftls. Then optimize to get good gamma/grayscale tracking and see if the picture looks any better. Just make sure to save all your current settings so you can go back to them in case it doesn't look any better.

hope this helps,


--tom

What I mean by the picture being awful is this. Imagine applying a very subtle white filter over the entire tv screen, actually kind of like everthing is just a little too bright as stated above, but also that the clarity (high def) factor is diminished as well.Lower your gamma to -1 and your Brightness down a couple of ticks.

Thanks everyone for the input. I do set brightness/contrast/greyscale in that order using the AVCHS disk or whatever it is called. I'll try the gamma at -1 and brightness down a bit when the set comes back. I'll post back probably in 4 to 5 days, so if you guys will take a look then at the results, I'd appreciate it.

Something that is confusing about the contrast test is that I never see the bars disappear on the screen. They will usually fade, turn slight gray, or turn slight pink, or faint white, but never disappear. They do this all across the contrast scale/adjustment. What I mean is that the above pattern could repeat itself several times if you started at 0 contrast and went to 100. So to say just set it where the bars are the faintest of white would not work as that could be seen at two or three places on the contrast scale. I've read that this can happen under certain circumstances, but I dont remember what those are. Maybe it has something to do with the PS3 Blue ray player output to HDMI, I don't know.

color speckling in dark shadows is a sign of HDMI bandwidth issues. Get shorter and better cables.

Thanks about the cable. The cable I have is a 4ft rocketfish. The diagnosed problem is with voltage issues related to video. Settings are internal for downward adjustment. Service center will either replace boards or adjust with a oscilliscope or both. Also firmware upgrade. Voltage problems seem to be common issue with plasmas.

http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/21337/Red-dots-in-dark-areas-of-picture-on-Samsung-HP-R5072-plasma-TV/