I have visited this site numerous times over the last year. I have approximately 98% of the basement framed. (except for soffits) I need help/input on my dedicated HT and game rooms.

The theater is approximately 13' x 16'9". I have a riser built in place that is
13' x 62" x 7". This equals out to the seating being 16.5 feet from the screen on the rear row. The front row would be 10.5-11' from the screen. I plan on putting in a 110" screen. I am wondering if these dimensions are good or is the front row to close???

I will be purchasing Berkline 090's or 091's. My seating setup would be 3 seats in each row. This works well considering I would have space on each side of the rear row to put an audio cabinet on each side.

I'll give some other thoughts on my next post and some pics to help out. I need to finalize this because the more I look at it, the more I think I need to make changes. If you guys could help on ideas and different posts, I would appreciate it. Like I always say, It is, what it is!!:
Also, I've attached some pics but does anyone know how to place them directly into the text post??

Nice is there a door down there?

If not looks like it will be a pain to get furniture down those steps and around the bend.:cool:

Hello and welcome to the forum! As far as the photo question you can use an image hosting site such as photobucket and then link to the image there and the image would show in your post with out having to click on a link. You have to use the "Go Advanced" option while posting and you'll see all of the options for you to do this.

One suggestion I would make regarding the audio cabinets is to keep as much gear together ie. one wider/taller one on one side vs. two separated buy your seats. Having audio/video gear separated by say 13 feet my leave the room more balanced looking but will in the long run possibly cause you more expense (additional cables between components) and more headaches in wiring and planning. Just my .02

Your room dimensions are very workable and using a 1080p projector at 10.5-11 feet you should be Ok however some projectors have a more visible pixel structure than others.

Good Luck and enjoy building your theater.

Regards

RTROSE

Hi there.
I can make a suggestion...normally it is preferred to build the riser and stage after the Dwall is in place. Can't tell by the photo but the riser shouldn't be coupled (nailed or screwed) to the walls. Looking good!
J

Yea the basement is a walkout. Forgot to mention. It will be a breeze to bring in bulkier items. As far as the cabinets, i like the balanced look of most rooms and the only reason I think I am going to place one on each side is the right side would be all audio. This would make it easy to access since I will have a storage closet in the rear of the theater. The left side cabinet would strictly be for DVD's, Controllers, and what ever else "junk wise" that we would have in there. If I were not to use that I also thought of placing a 2'x2'x10' cabinet under the screen in the front. I thought this would cost me more in the long run due to cable prices. Suggestions???
As far as the HT room dimensions the HT store I recently visited said that your eyes would constantly be turning side to side watching the screen sitting any closer than 14feet. I told them I didn't believe it.

I have decided the soffits in the HT are two-fold.
1. Hiding pipes. (hated these)
2. I installed 4" recessed cans.
***I don't know if I should install two over the screen or is this a waste?***
3. It gives it more of "theater" look and a trey ceiling look.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08026.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08026.jpg

Bear with me, I just figured out how to post pics in the post thanks to RTROSE. Thanks a lot. Now I can really get on with the build.

Also from experience I hate having my entrance right on the front wall as I want to go wider with the screen and it pushes the side speakers in the entrance path or if I were to build out and put the speakers behind the screen it would bump out in the path. So if at all possible relocating the door would be my suggestion.

Nate

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08023.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08028.jpg

The sports lounge will have an air hockey table on the left side of the room with a flat screen above for viewing from the booth. On the right will be a 10' wide by 5' deep restaurant style booth that I will build after DW stage.

Final details to come later on that. I thought of closing the room in but I think I like the "open" feel of the entire area. It could still change. If I did that than I could enlarge the HT on the other side of the steps by 3' longer. This would make the HT 13' x 19'9".

Only problem I see is making the Sports Lounge real small. I don't know until I get further along.http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08017.jpg

Welcome to the Forum! You are going to find a lot of really great information and help here. A couple of suggestions. You can edit your photos in in photobucket to re-size them for message boards so they are easier to view for curmudgeons like me.

Is sound isolation a concern of yours? Keep in mind that it is more than keeping the audio in the room from going into the rest of the house. It is even more important to keep outside noise out of the HT while you are watching movies, sports, etc. If you do want to isolate the room, you will want to get the drywall, green glue, etc installed before you build the riser and soffits.

Good luck and have fun with the process.

This equals out to the seating being 16.5 feet from the screen on the rear row. The front row would be 10.5-11' from the screen. I plan on putting in a 110" screen. I am wondering if these dimensions are good or is the front row to close???


10.5-11 will be just fine for a 110 diagonal inch screen

However a 62 inch deep riser will be very tight for berkline recliners. I have the berkline 099s. I just measured and it takes a full 68 inches to recline the chair. Add to that your feet hanging off the end. My riser is 80 inches and I wouldn't want it any smaller.

Well, I've decided to move the HT wall back. It will be nice having that 3 additional feet. Now all I have to do is re-frame the Sports Lounge steps. No biggie just a couple of hours of work with a J.D.

For all of you drinkers out there that is what I decided to name the HT. For one, it's the family name, two; I love me some bourbon.

Does anyone know whats a reasonable pair of front speakers going for via the net? I'm thinking of building a cavity beside the screen now to house them. INPUT

I've tried to edit these pics in photobucket. They continue to have Microsoft errors when I click resize to web size. I'll keep trying. For now they will still be full size so be patient. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08020.jpg

Bar http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08020.jpg

I'm thinking of building a cavity beside the screen now to house them.


I don't mind the full size pics at all it shows more detail.

As for speakers keep in mind that placing a speaker in a cavity is generally not recommended unless the crossover has been designed for in-wall mounting.

Also don't forget about locations for the center and sub(s).

For all of you drinkers out there that is what I decided to name the HT. For one, it's the family name, two; I love me some bourbon.


I wondered about that. I'll have to show the wife this one. She loves that sippin whiskey. I don't mind it and I also like Crown."

BigmouthinDC, Where do you suggest would be the best possible place to locate the sub? I will have the audio cabinet in the rear of the HT or I could build an entire cabinet on the screen wall underneath the screen. I have thought of the pros and cons of both. The rear cabinet would give me easier access. The front would give me a better line of sight for equipment, hidden behind the possibilty of a smoked glass.

The HT we just finished in my cousins basement had the in-wall speakers in the wall not in a cavity. More ideas on the front speaker location might have to be thought of???

I need to spend a day to clean up the mess so far. Tired of walking over trash.

BigmouthinDC, Where do you suggest would be the best possible place to locate the sub? I will have the audio cabinet in the rear of the HT or I could build an entire cabinet on the screen wall underneath the screen. I have thought of the pros and cons of both. The rear cabinet would give me easier access. The front would give me a better line of sight for equipment, hidden behind the possibilty of a smoked glass.


I would flip the location of the door so it opens further back in the room then build a modified version (not as deep) of BritinVA screen wall and stage. In that case all speakers and sub are hidden behind the acoustically transparent fabric.

Read through Brits thread if you haven't already to get ideas for your front end. Also ChinaDogs.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7972682#post7972682

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/stage4.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Proscenium-1.jpg

Here is ChinaDogs:
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/2875265/100_0238-vi.jpg

Here it is covered with fabric and carpeted peaking through the door, his door is just about where yours would be:

http://images114.fotki.com/v649/photos/6/649633/4065030/equipmentarea-vi.jpg

Now you need to think about room acoustics and wall treatments and how the door effects the first reflection points. An acoustic panel can be mounted on the door, but not if it's a pocket door.

But you need to develop an acoustic plan for the entire room.

Put the equipment in the rear.

Some say that for their "viewing experience" having the equipment up front with all of the lights blinking and showing is bothersome. I have elected to have my equipment rack in the back of the theater so as not to have any issues with equipment up front.

As for the sub placement there are may opinions about the best place but the actual answer is "it depends". I am not an expert on sub placement however I have planned for four different sub locations in my own HT. Two up front by the screen in the corners and two locations along the side walls. My plan is to sit in my preferred seating location and try my sub in all of the locations and "see" what hears best to me and that is where I will locate my sub. Not the most scientific mind you but pretty silly simple.

I do remember reading somewhere that the corners of the room my actually give you increased bass response however that may not be necessarily a good thing in HT applications.

Now that I have throughly confused you someone else can chime in and give you better info.

Regards,

RTROSE

I need to spend a day to clean up the mess so far. Tired of walking over trash.


I know how you feel. I need to do this myself however I'm holding off until I have all of my electrical done. No need to clean up wood shavings several different times. My wife doesn't share this view howver!:D

Regards,

RTROSE

Good places to try the sub out are 1/3, 1/5, 2/5, 1/7, 2/7, 3/7 of the rooms width from either side wall along the front wall on a sand filled stage.

I appreciate all the input. I forgot to mention or surely you noticed that the door is actually going to be a pocket door. I couldn't pass up on the good deal, plus I already have a solid core door to fit it. My dilemma is that I will probably have to put a sweep on the bottom. I actually moved that front wall back 3 feet tonight and now the room dimensions are 19'9" x 13'. I really like the difference it makes. What's the pros and cons of a front stage? just for asthetics or does it serve a purpose. I've seen both, never asked anyone at those home shows.

According to what I'm reading,I should wait until after drywall to build the stage and the speaker areas?

If you could, what are average depths and dimensions on a typical HT stage?

What's the pros and cons of a front stage? just for asthetics or does it serve a purpose. I've seen both, never asked anyone at those home shows.



To stage or not to stage that is one of the top questions bantered about. Just like electric or manual reclining seats.

Here is a recent thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=993806&highlight=purpose+of+stage

Also be sure to go through the show me your screen wall and stage threads for ideas on stage.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=769702&highlight=show

http://avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=994029

Dimensions are totally discretionary but should be big enough to hold the speakers.

this is my favorite. It makes a statement that "this is a serious theater, I know what I'm doing, don't mess with me!!!"

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n105/johnnyq627/house/basement/theater/10Feb08/DSCN2176.jpg

The sports lounge will have an air hockey table on the left side of the room with a flat screen above for viewing from the booth. [SNIP]
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08017.jpg

Are you building the air hockey table? I was just curious what the table was in this pic??? Those are some healthy legs on that table.

Well, I've decided to move the HT wall back. It will be nice having that 3 additional feet. Now all I have to do is re-frame the Sports Lounge steps. No biggie just a couple of hours of work with a J.D.

Good deal - I think this is a good choice. :) I also like the larger size pictures.

Keep up the good work,

-Ryan

Are you building the air hockey table? I was just curious what the table was in this pic??? Those are some healthy legs on that table.
No, I have the air hockey table but it is not shown here. That is my very old Steepleton pool table that has not been set up for over 10 years now.

Here is the pic with the air hockey table.http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Jan-April08022.jpg

While I am thinking of it, what is the deal with a 2.37or 2:35 AT screen? How does it work, what are some prices, and would this work great for my dimensions?

I will have about 9'-10' in width to work with in the screen area. Whats better, this or the other styles?

J.D.,

When I began looking/researching here and elsewhere on how to do this HT thing I at first considered doing the AT screen/setup. I decided against the AT setup for several reasons. The two biggest were the loss of floor space and I have always wanted a great stereo (and as I have gotten older) HT setup and I want to "show off" my gear including the speakers. I guess that part it is just the teenagerish side of me.

The AT setup is the "cleaner look" and if truer to actual "cinema experience" is desired is probably the better way to go because of the location of the speakers are where "they should be" anchoring the dialog and action "on the screen" however those who do their theater "the other way" would probably disagree saying their setup give nothing up to the AT setups.

The biggest thing was the loss of the floor space. I learned that you need (depending upon your setup anywhere from 18" to 24" of space behind your screen to allow room for your speakers/subwoofers. I just did not want to loose my floorspace in favor of the AT design.

Here are a few thread here on AVS to get you started.

Here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=117

Here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=174

Others here would be far better suited to give you guidance on the AT setup.

Now that I have thoroughly confused and baffled you I'll take my leave.

Regards,

RTROSE

BTW Your welcome.

Thanks. I don't want to lose space either. Maybe I will look at putting front speakers in the stage columns. I'll check out designs.

J.D.

Here is another thread to give you ideas and inspiration for how it can ultimately look.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=769702&highlight=show

Regards,

RTROSE

Update on moving the HT wall: Complete. I gained the extra 3", looks good. I know it is early but I am planning out some things. What is a good size to build those cavities to house the subs on the stage? General idea is to build them 18"-20" across and 24" to the back. Is this correct?

DSEAL,

I have 24" and my AV123 MFW15 will be tightin there. I suggest at least 24".

BigMouth... thanks for the compliment! It got me motivated to take updated pics of the stage/theater just for you ;) Check my thread.

Nick

I've been thinking of using the Grafik Eye. I plan on having 4 zones.
#1- 4" recessed over the screen
#2- 4" recessed in the right /left side soffits
#3- 4" recessed over the rear seating
#4- Rope lighting around perimeter of soffits

Does this sound right or should I do more/less?

Would the GRX-2404 (4 zone, 4 gang box) MSRP $ 580 or GRX-3104 (4 zone, 4 gang box) MSRP $ 850 work?
Do they come with remotes or would I use one that I will purcahse later?

Anyhow, either one of them would be great but pricey. Need to check E-Bay or elsewhere for prices since I am getting ready to run electrical soon.

J.D.

If you can afford it, definitely go with the grafikeye. I really like mine. Also, get the 6 zone, or you'll be wishing you had later in your build... worse comes to worse, you don't use two zones. Also, keep your eye on ebay as you can usually find a great deal on them on there, you just may need to watch for a couple of weeks.

Nick

J.D.

If you can afford it, definitely go with the grafikeye. I really like mine. Also, get the 6 zone, or you'll be wishing you had later in your build... worse comes to worse, you don't use two zones. Also, keep your eye on ebay as you can usually find a great deal on them on there, you just may need to watch for a couple of weeks.

Nick

Seconded. I just did a test of my 6-zone this weekend. Check my thread for some details on the remote control option as well.

-Ryan

Seconded. I just did a test of my 6-zone this weekend. Check my thread for some details on the remote control option as well.

-Ryan

Do you use six different zones on that one? Is there any special wiring or pre-wiring that needs to be done special for the GE?

Seconded. I just did a test of my 6-zone this weekend. Check my thread for some details on the remote control option as well.

-Ryan

I see what you are saying. Just yesterday the wife decided it would be cool to have the star ceiling. I think I read someones thread a long time ago that made his. Does anyone know how to make it or should I just buy it? My ceiling dimensions are 11' x 17.5'. Should I just do a partial or the whole thing? Thoughts?

This means now I would have 5 zones for the GE. If I keep going I will have the entire basement on GE. More expense!!!!!!!

On the GE, I dont have the spec sheet so I was wondering if there is a cable/wire that needs to run from it to the audio/video equipment?

I have been wondering, how do you know approximately where to install the power outlet and various cables for the projector? I have read through various specs on the Top 15 projectors at projectorcentral.com and they range from 10' and 20' for my specific HT. Problem is that I have no idea which one I am going to go with. I will wait until after drywall to purchase it hopefully. Money issues.

I think I will be okay within the area of 13'-15'.

What do you guys think????

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/JD_Logo.gif

Possible Logo without the trademarks. Personalize it.

I have been wondering, how do you know approximately where to install the power outlet and various cables for the projector? I have read through various specs on the Top 15 projectors at projectorcentral.com and they range from 10' and 20' for my specific HT. Problem is that I have no idea which one I am going to go with. I will wait until after drywall to purchase it hopefully. Money issues.

I think I will be okay within the area of 13'-15'.

What do you guys think????

I to am still "up in the air" regarding my projector purchase. I am leaning heavily towards two different projectors. The Epson Home Cinema 1080 UB and the BenQ 5000 or 10000. The Epson is LCD and the BenQ DLP. The Epson has much more placement flexibility so I'll probably end up going that way.

I have "settled" on a throw distance of 14 feet. I came to this distance like you using the distance calculator at Projector Central.

I am going to be doing a DIY mount using 5/8" plywood or oak plank to match the depth of the drywall. I will be placing my power and A/V boxes on the floor joists just to the outside of the square projector "mount". I will be using screws to secure the mount to the ceiling (floor joists) so it is removable and then securing the projector to the wood using mounting screws. I'm doing this to preserve head room.

I have chosen 14 feet because it is about the middle of the road for many
projectors in my price range and give the ability to have a range of image sizes to try from that distance.

I guess that is my long way of saying 13-15 should be just fine :o

Regards,

RTROSE

Before I forget, Is there anyone in KY or the louisville area doing a build at this time? I always see the Virginia Boyz on the forum.

Ready to frame the bar this weekend. I have been contempating doing this prior to DW. I need to go ahead with it since I will be installing plumbing and electrical in the outer bar.
I have finalized my bar plans, will post pics later. Has anyone installed thier plumbing like an "island" in the bar before? I think it is called a "chicago loop" where you actually use the main drain and those vents as the suction needed for the waste line.

Finally, The bar is framed.

All Ihave to do as far as framing goes is finish all the DW backing. This is so tedious. I will post pics oncw I get the camera working.

On plumbing the drain line for the island. There is a diagram of a Chicago loop on Wikopedia.

But you might also want to consider a studor valve instead. It's an air admittance valve installed under the sink that eliminates the need for a vent connection.

http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2004-12-12_air%20inlet%20valve%20II_w550.JPG

I did a studor vent in my bathroom, you can check out pics in my thread, it was very straight forward.

On plumbing the drain line for the island. There is a diagram of a Chicago loop on Wikopedia.

But you might also want to consider a studor valve instead. It's an air admittance valve installed under the sink that eliminates the need for a vent connection.

http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2004-12-12_air%20inlet%20valve%20II_w550.JPG
Thanks. I spoke to my local Lowes plumbing contact and he showed me the part. It costs around $5. He also said, if the sink is used daily, most people end up changing it out every few years. I can deal with that.

For the GE, I bought a 3104 for $288 off of Ebay (used). It works perfectly, just need to paint the front panel to black (from white), or buy a new front panel from Lutron. It's set up for four zones.

I did run some extra electrical wiring to the GE in case I ever upgrade to a six-zone. I also ran one low-voltage wiring. Finally, I did run an infrared eye AND some Cat5 from my cabinet to the GE box as the box sits in the back of the seating area (see my HT thread for details).

With the Harmony 880 remote, you can configure a GE.

Spring time really takes away from working on the basement. It seems that I have not gained any progress as of late. I am currently going around the basement finishing up any DW backings that I forgot. Everytime that you think you are done, there is another area overlooked.

I will be glad to get to the wiring stage.

Purchased the bar sink from Lowes. It is a 15" x 15" stainless. Pretty reasonable to. I will probably do a mockup of the back bar just to see how it looks.

Well I recently started back on my build. I have finished framing and I am now on the wiring stage. I have two possible locations to place my audio rack. My original plan is to place two cabinets in the theater. The one on the right would house all my audio equipment. The one on the left would house movies and other accessories. I like the balance look. That way I would have a row of three berklines in between the cabinets and a row of three berklines in front of them.

My second choice would be to place all the audio equipment in the closet under the stairs behind the screen wall. This option would let me put in a row of five berklines instead of three on the rear row. I like both options. The closet would probably cost more for cables and IR repeaters. The other would take away from future seats. If I place it in the closet how would the Xbox and the PS3 be affected. Would I place them in there or ???

It's good to be back.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement007-1-1.jpgThis is the setup with audio racks in the HT

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement008-1.jpgThis is the option of placing the rack in the closet.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement007-1.jpg
Pic without my drawing of the racks and chairs.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement002.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement003.jpg
Bar framed and ready for electrical and plumbing.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement004.jpg
Cabinet wall behind bar. Will have two upper and three lower cabinets with a 37" flat panel on the wall.

I have two possible locations to place my audio rack. My original plan is to place two cabinets in the theater. The one on the right would house all my audio equipment. The one on the left would house movies and other accessories. I like the balance look. That way I would have a row of three berklines in between the cabinets and a row of three berklines in front of them.

My second choice would be to place all the audio equipment in the closet under the stairs behind the screen wall. This option would let me put in a row of five berklines instead of three on the rear row. I like both options. The closet would probably cost more for cables and IR repeaters. The other would take away from future seats. If I place it in the closet how would the Xbox and the PS3 be affected. Would I place them in there or ???

Putting the equipment in a closet under the stairs would limit the amount of heat gain in the room. A HT receiver, Xbox and PS3 will put out a good amount of heat. Add in the projector and six bodies, and you can get a nice little oven-thing going. Dumping the heat from the receiver and the game systems outside of the room can help with this problem.

If you put the equipment rack even with the back row, would you point the remote behind you to control the equipment? That seems awkward. You might be able to bounce the IR signal off the screen and back to the components, but I don't know that I would count on that with chairs and bodies in the way. You might need an IR repeater even if you keep the equipment rack in the room.

I believe the PS3 controllers are Bluetooth, which is radio frequency. They should work fine in either location. I'm not sure about the Xbox.

Personally, I would put the equipment in the closet in order to add two more seats. But that's just me.

Well yeah I do like that idea of getting rid of the heat. I tried my xbox360 today. It works from across the room, upstairs, downstairs and the garage. So I guess it will be ok in the closet. I've checked out the "racks" thread and it shows pros and cons of both. I'll think about over Thanksgiving.

Hey welcome back! Good to see your back at it. I too have completed my summer/fall honey do list so I'm hoping after the Thanksgiving holiday I can get back at it.

As for where to put your gear. I would keep it at the back of your theater instead of a closet behind the screen. Would you have to leave your theater to access your equipment if you put it in the closet? If this is the case I would imagine it would get tiring to have to leave the room to tend to your equipment. Just my .02 keep your equipment at the back of your room. I think in the long run you will happier to have your "stuff" in the theater.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks for the input. I have been working on the electrical circuits for the entire basement. Whew!! I have 1 20A circuit for my PJ, 1 20A for my audio/video rack, 1 20A for my subs, 1 15A for my HT plugs and 1 20A for the HT lights. I have a total of 16 new circuits for the entire basement, 5 of them in the HT. Does this setup sound alright?

Now I have read about the setup Big MouthinDC talked about for the PJ, but I need to double check. I already ran my wire to the PJ from the panel box. Would this be okay or should I remove it and install the female plug and run the line to my rack and plug it in to the power conditioner from there?

Would it make that much of a difference?

Go Cats!

I decided and framed the audio/video rack with screen wall in the front of HT. I'll take pics later.

Anybody near Louisville, KY with a HT build?

I have 78" x 104 1/2" dimensions to pkace my screen in between my audio racks. I checked out the screens on smx and projector people. When they give dimensions of 58 x 104, is that just the screen size or is it with the "black border" around the screen material. I need to know so that I can determine my center channel placement below the screen.

SMX replied today and said they can build one custom for my space. Good news, but I wonder what the price difference would be versus building my own??????????

I framed the screen wall in and framed the audi/video boxes on each side of the screen. From my calculations that would put my front speakers at a height of 48". Hopefully this will be fine, I know I should have them lower but it will have to do. Only other option is an AT screen. I would need to look at cost differences.

Thanks for the input. I have been working on the electrical circuits for the entire basement. Whew!! I have 1 20A circuit for my PJ, 1 20A for my audio/video rack, 1 20A for my subs, 1 15A for my HT plugs and 1 20A for the HT lights. I have a total of 16 new circuits for the entire basement, 5 of them in the HT. Does this setup sound alright?

Now I have read about the setup Big MouthinDC talked about for the PJ, but I need to double check. I already ran my wire to the PJ from the panel box. Would this be okay or should I remove it and install the female plug and run the line to my rack and plug it in to the power conditioner from there?

Would it make that much of a difference?

Go Cats!

Hey sorry not to comment for a while had a HUA (Head Up A%$) moment) sorry. At last count for my entire basement I had 11 or 13 new circuits can't remember exactly now. I think five or six of those was for the HT. So what you have done sounds about right.

Regarding your PJ what I'm planning on doing is running the power for the PJ back to a UPC/power conditioner in my rack al la DIY power bridge option much like Big has done.

Regarding your speaker placement you should be fine. I have heard though that the tweeter should be close to ear level but as they say YMMV.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks RTROSE, I will do that. The end of the PJ circuit back to the audi rack is a female end at the projector and a male end at the AV Rack, correct? I would then plug that cord into the power conditioner, correct. That would mean I would eliminate 1 circuit (The one I have now for my PJ) from my panel or I could use it as another one at the AV rack.

Thanks RTROSE, I will do that. The end of the PJ circuit back to the audi rack is a female end at the projector and a male end at the AV Rack, correct? I would then plug that cord into the power conditioner, correct. That would mean I would eliminate 1 circuit (The one I have now for my PJ) from my panel or I could use it as another one at the AV rack.

That is correct. Female at the pj so you can plug in the pj power cord and a male end at the rack so you can plug into the power conditioner. What you want you want to avoid is a male-male power cord so that when plugged in you have a 120v shock potential/hazzard. I was confused as how it all comes together until I read several of the DIY threads on the subject. I learned how to (and not to) do the DIY powerbridge setup. Or you could just purchase the powerbridge and it is all taken care of.

Regards,

RTROSE

Last night, my cousin and I installed the majority of the 2 inch pipe from the AV rack to different locations. It looks great even though you will never see it, except for the flanges which terminate inside the AV rack. Pics to follow once I find my camera.

We were talking about different options on the speaker placement. The sides and rear speakers can be mounted outside the drywall or in wall. If I go inwall does anyone have any pics of their MDF boxes they bulit for the inwalls? Optimal speaker height should be ear level or what off the floor?

Last night, my cousin and I installed the majority of the 2 inch pipe from the AV rack to different locations. It looks great even though you will never see it, except for the flanges which terminate inside the AV rack. Pics to follow once I find my camera.

We were talking about different options on the speaker placement. The sides and rear speakers can be mounted outside the drywall or in wall. If I go inwall does anyone have any pics of their MDF boxes they bulit for the inwalls? Optimal speaker height should be ear level or what off the floor?


Ideally the tweeters should be at or close to ear level for the best result, however I think if you can get them "purt near" ideal then you should be ok.

I would like to see the pics of the conduit, I'm still at the stage (unfortunately, I planned on being much further along at this point) I could do this if I wish or desire.

Regards,

RTROSE

Regar

Ideally the tweeters should be at or close to ear level for the best result, however I think if you can get them "purt near" ideal then you should be ok.

I would like to see the pics of the conduit, I'm still at the stage (unfortunately, I planned on being much further along at this point) I could do this if I wish or desire.

Regards,

RTROSE

Regar

D - I saw your post about speaker boxes in Bud's thread and came over here to check out your room. Two things I'd like to mention in addition to all the other great advice you're getting:

1) RT is right about the front sound stage placement. Those tweeters should ideally be at ear height (and best if all three are the same height, but this is probably only possible with an AT screen). However, the sides and rears should not be at ear level. They should be above ear level by a couple of feet as long as that doesn't get them too close to the bottom of the soffit.

2) Be very careful which speakers you get if you are going to build in-wall boxes for them. You can't take free-standing speakers and mount them this way. In-wall speakers are designed to be in a wall, others are not (the baffle extension of the wall itself and the porting of the speaker can create big problems for "normal" speakers). Maybe you already realized this, but I wanted to mention it since you are talking about building boxes.

Good luck with the rest of the project.

Thanks, I was just considering options on the sides and rears. I like the look of in walls back there but I am concerned with noise going through the walls.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement015.jpg

Installed 4 new step lights in the stairwell

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement014.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement012.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement013.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement021.jpg

Constructed a Right Side A/V Rack and a Identical rack on the left side for movies and misc. items.

Both are made out of 3/4 MDF and have been routed out on each side to accept 1/2 wide channel for adjustable shelves.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement017.jpg
I have 3 pipes to different locations. #1 goes to procjector for future upgrades. #2 goes to the Rec room where there will be a drop ceiling for easy access. #3 goes to the left rack in case of ??? and #4 has a opening for all my cable needs now. I like the neat look of the flanges inside of the rack.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement018.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement019.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement020.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement016.jpg

Finallly got my 32" vent free fireplace installed this weekend. I plan on installing stackstone on the facia after drywall.

What do you think of the conduit runs RTRose? I have a couple more to install in other areas of the basement yet. Even though it cost me around $75 I think it will be money well spent if I ever need to add anything.

Oh yea, before I call it a night. I built my riser at a height of 7 inches. Is this plenty or should I think about making it 12-14 inches. Bottom of my screen will be around 32 inches from floor.

What do you think of the conduit runs RTRose? I have a couple more to install in other areas of the basement yet. Even though it cost me around $75 I think it will be money well spent if I ever need to add anything.

Those are pretty slick. Very nicely done. I don't think I have the room to do what you have done with 2" conduit but I think you have given me some ideas on what I can do with some smaller conduit. I'll need to think about my options. Good work.

Regards,

RTROSE

Oh yea, before I call it a night. I built my riser at a height of 7 inches. Is this plenty or should I think about making it 12-14 inches. Bottom of my screen will be around 32 inches from floor.

Nice look with the conduit flanges! There is slick little app in a sticky to help you calculate the height at the top of this forum. I just framed mine out this weekend and used 2x12's.

Those are pretty slick. Very nicely done. I don't think I have the room to do what you have done with 2" conduit but I think you have given me some ideas on what I can do with some smaller conduit. I'll need to think about my options. Good work.

Regards,

RTROSE

Appreciate it. It wasn't easy, but once I got going it worked out. I didn't know how I was going to enter the A/V rack until I saw the flanges. A little measuring and they stick out of the MDF by about 1/2". Enough to glue up to the coupling. I didn't want the orange boxes with plates to purchase.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement023.jpg

I can place the speakers behind the screen, but I haven't researched the cost of an AT screen yet. Any ideas on prices? Otherwise I will place them above the A/V racks with sound absorbing bass traps in corners. Only problem is that they will be above mid screen height.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement024.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement025.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement007-1-1.jpg

Doing away with the racks in the rear of the HT. I will now have room for a row of 4 or 5 Berklines depending on model.

Will those A/V racks have solid doors on them? I know I'm late to this party but why did you decide to put them up front instead of in the rear?

Your front speakers will be awfully high if you put them on top of the racks/screen. You'll have to deal with proximity to the ceiling/soffit too. Go to the DIY screen forum and search for sheerweave. You'll find a fabric that you can build a pretty decent AT screen from.

Also, if you don't have plans for that empty space you're creating under the screen, have you thought about sealing it up and mounting a couple or four 12-15" woofers in the face of it? Would make a great sub...

Will those A/V racks have solid doors on them? I know I'm late to this party but why did you decide to put them up front instead of in the rear?

Your front speakers will be awfully high if you put them on top of the racks/screen. You'll have to deal with proximity to the ceiling/soffit too. Go to the DIY screen forum and search for sheerweave. You'll find a fabric that you can build a pretty decent AT screen from.

Also, if you don't have plans for that empty space you're creating under the screen, have you thought about sealing it up and mounting a couple or four 12-15" woofers in the face of it? Would make a great sub...

The racks will have custom made smoke colored acrylic doors (1/2" thick"). Won't be able to see the equipment lights. I decided to place them up front for two reasons. #1, I will be able to ad 1-2 more recliners in my 2nd row of and seating and #2 I will have access to all my equipment underneath the stairs via an access door which I will encase with 4" of sheet foam.

We are on the same thinking. I am framing/soundproofing my sub enclosures in that space as we speak. For now I am going with 2 subs and will have space for 2 more plus my center channel.

Does the DIY sheerweave produce a pretty good AT screen? Would you use floor speakers behind the screen or semi in walls?

From what I understand, if you get the right version of the Sheerweave, it will be a very good screen material. Very similar to a product you can buy...

You can put normal, free-standing speakers back there. That's what I would do because in-walls almost always are a compromise of some sort. I have Ascend 340SEs and a Rocket bigfoot behind my screen and like them a lot.

Well,

I think your construction is coming along nicely, however I must say I'm disappointed in your choice of screen size. What is that about 13" or so. I had you pegged with at least 110" if not 120". I must say I'm really really let down. Shame on you.

Regards,

RTROSE

Well,

I think your construction is coming along nicely, however I must say I'm disappointed in your choice of screen size. What is that about 13" or so. I had you pegged with at least 110" if not 120". I must say I'm really really let down. Shame on you.

Regards,

RTROSE

I can go as big as a 110" screen with a couple of inches to spare all the way around the frame. Disappointed? I thought I was doing good on a tight budget while doing a whole basement finish!!!

I looked at SMX screens today and they still haven't gave me a quote yet. Probably out of my price range. But I sure like them. I will definetly buy one if I don't do it this time.

I can go as big as a 110" screen with a couple of inches to spare all the way around the frame. Disappointed? I thought I was doing good on a tight budget while doing a whole basement finish!!!

I looked at SMX screens today and they still haven't gave me a quote yet. Probably out of my price range. But I sure like them. I will definetly buy one if I don't do it this time.

I think RT was makin' a funny about that lovely display device you have in the screen hole in the picture...

Check your PMs.

I think RT was makin' a funny about that lovely display device you have in the screen hole in the picture...

Check your PMs.


Yes,

ebr is right. I was poking fun at the little TV that was in the photo you posted earlier. Sorry about that if I offended you, that was not my intent at all. I want to encourage all of us here that have undertaken this HT journey regardless of budget. I am honest when I say your build is coming along nicely again sorry if I missed the mark humor wise.

Regards,

RTROSE

Yes,

ebr is right. I was poking fun at the little TV that was in the photo you posted earlier. Sorry about that if I offended you, that was not my intent at all. I want to encourage all of us here that have undertaken this HT journey regardless of budget. I am honest when I say your build is coming along nicely again sorry if I missed the mark humor wise.

Regards,

RTROSE

Nah, I didn't take it that way or get offended. It's tough and it has been a long journey. If I can meet my goal of drywall by the spring than I would be happy. Don't worry, it takes a lot to make me mad. If only our city mayor would stop tightening his budget which in turn tightens mine.

Thanks RT, No problem.
Thanks EBR Igot the PM, will check it out.

Poor-man's SMX: You could do your size for under $175 frame included.
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?ID=113044&t=2182

Bigmouth is on the mark. I didn't want to piss anyone off with the direct post but since he said it... ;)

Just to make you feel better here is a shot of my HT v1.0

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/RTROSE_album/DSC00624.jpg

So I really don't have room to talk about your "small screen". Glad I did not offend you, and glad to hear it takes quite a bit to rile you up. Sometimes it is a true advantage to have thick skin.

Regards,

RTROSE

They don't call me Mr. Happy for nothing. Yea my little 13" tv is vintage early 80's. Had to have the UK/UL game and the BCS games on while I work.



I have one giant problem to work out. I live in the rural area and our internet is on the Sprint Broadband card. We use a router to the PC. It is fairly quick. I even use it on XBOX live. No problems. My problem is that I need to run several runs from the router to different areas in the basement. More runs than I have space for on my router. Next, if we ever do get broadband in our neighborhood, then I need to run those same runs from my closet area to each location.

I need a simplier solution if there are any.

http://shop.ebay.ca/items/?_nkw=intel+410t&_sacat=0&_fromfsb=&_trksid=m270&_odkw=es410t16&_osacat=0

this is the model switch I have ... it maybe overkill but it can be had for cheap now so why not ;)

They don't call me Mr. Happy for nothing. Yea my little 13" tv is vintage early 80's. Had to have the UK/UL game and the BCS games on while I work.



I have one giant problem to work out. I live in the rural area and our internet is on the Sprint Broadband card. We use a router to the PC. It is fairly quick. I even use it on XBOX live. No problems. My problem is that I need to run several runs from the router to different areas in the basement. More runs than I have space for on my router. Next, if we ever do get broadband in our neighborhood, then I need to run those same runs from my closet area to each location.

I need a simplier solution if there are any.


Where is the router? I guess its not in the wiring closet right now. If not and you can't move it there, then just run one or two cat5/6 runs from where ever the router is to the closet and then go from there out to all your other locations. Then just get yourself a gbit switch like Scruffy suggested (there are tons of them - even at big box) and you're good to go now and in the future.

Great. I looked them up and that is exactly what I need. I researched something similar for my Direct TV to different locations. They aren't as cheap and the only way to really run them is home runs from the incoming lines to different areas.

On a HDDVR the first line is in Hdef and the second line is in standard def. There is a whole house autmation but way out of my price run. I will just wait for something different and pay for recievers where I want seperate channels. I already have 3 need two more ( 1-HDDVR , 1-RCVR). Thats an extra $10/month plus $10 for HD access.

Good looking out on that Intel switch Scruff/EBR. Thanks

I found this company recently. It's professionalplastics.com. They have several locations around the US and overseas. I spoke to a salesman, I think his last name was Goodwin. I forgot about this resource until I was thinking how am I going to make my doors for the AV rack. Check out their Acrylic cut to size section. I like the Bronze opaque. They also carry polyurethane foam for many purposes.

I am going to order each of my doors for around $75 each. I thought it was reasonable considering it will have a smoked glass look without the chance of being broke.

They have the Berks again this year, but they are the micro-fiber ones for $799 plus tax. Item#313750.

Is Roman still selling his seating? If so I forgot the website.

It's time for me to start looking at HT speakers. Any suggestions on the web or at the box stores?

How much are you looking to spend on speakers? that will give everyone a starting point with suggestions.

7.1 system. I guess around 100-300 per speaker.

7.1 system. I guess around 100-300 per speaker.

So $2400 max for whole system? You're building your own sub, right?

I'm partial to the Ascend fronts (especially if you're hiding them behind a screen or false wall). Rockets are good too. For surrounds, I love my Axiom QS8s (they are quadpoles and really spread sound around well).

I'd definitely go online direct - much more value.

So $2400 max for whole system? You're building your own sub, right?

I'm partial to the Ascend fronts (especially if you're hiding them behind a screen or false wall). Rockets are good too. For surrounds, I love my Axiom QS8s (they are quadpoles and really spread sound around well).

I'd definitely go online direct - much more value.

Well two thoughts. I have a c/c already. I can either build my own sub or purchase. I will post some pics later of the sub boxes I built under the screen wall. For the fronts, I have a space of 25" x 20" to place them on either side of the screen. I will also be planning on doing some in-walls behind the screen in the future when the budget allows. For now they will have to go on the sides.

On the Axioms, would you still have those for side surrounds and a pair for rear surrounds?

On the Axioms, would you still have those for side surrounds and a pair for rear surrounds?

Yes, I have four of them.

I'm looking at your screen wall pictures and trying to figure out why you are saying you'll have in-walls if behind the screen, and now I think I see. You are planning to put the screen recessed into that area...?

If that's so, I would suggest that, instead, you build it across the front of that opening (flush with the cabinets). That would open up that whole space for speakers behind the screen and eliminate what I think might be a couple of audio and video problems with the screen recessed like that...

Hey there,
I live in Louisville and would be happy to let you demo my room. It's my basement and the room is not dedicated, but I do have a Epson HT720 shining on a 106" Wilson Art DW laminate screen. I also have Onix Rocket speakers and MFW15 sub. Feel free to pm me if you're interested. Good job so far on the build it's looking good.
Greg

If you still are on the hunt for speakers I would suggest checking here (http://www.aperionaudio.com/home.aspx). I have zero experience and I am planning on committing the most heinous crime when it comes to speakers and buy sight unseen or should I say sight unheard. I have read many positive opinions/reviews with very little negative from this speaker manufacturer and their impressive customer service department. Give'em a look and see what you think.

FWIW here is the setup I'm looking at 2 6B's, 1 6C, either 4 4B's or 2 5DB's and 2 4B's.

One combo is 1800.00 and the other 2230.00 both in your budget range.

Regards,

RTROSE

Dseal

I have heard good reviews about Elemental designs speakers but have never demoed them myself.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/

I found this company recently. It's professionalplastics.com. They have several locations around the US and overseas. I spoke to a salesman, I think his last name was Goodwin. I forgot about this resource until I was thinking how am I going to make my doors for the AV rack. Check out their Acrylic cut to size section. I like the Bronze opaque. They also carry polyurethane foam for many purposes.

I am going to order each of my doors for around $75 each. I thought it was reasonable considering it will have a smoked glass look without the chance of being broke.

First off great build. I have to inquire about this product. I need a door for the rear of my rack and now maybe the front as well. It will be an odd size and rather large. Can you tell more about this process. Do they custom make the door including frame it for you or what? Any input would be very helpful as this seems like a really cool idea

First off great build. I have to inquire about this product. I need a door for the rear of my rack and now maybe the front as well. It will be an odd size and rather large. Can you tell more about this process. Do they custom make the door including frame it for you or what? Any input would be very helpful as this seems like a really cool idea

I don't know if they would make a frame for it or not. I know you can any dimension cut and fabricated to your size. What I am going to do is use the metal clips that you see on most a/v cabinets, drill a 3/8" hole into the cabinet, insert the clip which slids over the material, and hang it. Then I will attach a magnet stop on the door and cabinet. Complete.. The colors are superb, I had a sample sent to me and I am impressed. Just go to there website and request a quote or call and speak to a salesperson. The guy I worked with was very helpful.
I am going to send him measurements so that I can get a qoute on the foam for soundproofing.

Hope this helps.

I don't know if they would make a frame for it or not. I know you can any dimension cut and fabricated to your size. What I am going to do is use the metal clips that you see on most a/v cabinets, drill a 3/8" hole into the cabinet, insert the clip which slids over the material, and hang it. Then I will attach a magnet stop on the door and cabinet. Complete.. The colors are superb, I had a sample sent to me and I am impressed. Just go to there website and request a quote or call and speak to a salesperson. The guy I worked with was very helpful.
I am going to send him measurements so that I can get a qoute on the foam for soundproofing.

Hope this helps.

Hmm so yours will be the plastic/plexiglass(forgive me for not remembering what exactly it is)and thats it no frame? I was thinking some sort of frame like a cabinet door or something. Do you have a pic of the metal clips you are referring to? Maybe I could use them to attatch it to a wood frame and then end up with a smoke glass looking door framed in wood to match the trim.

Hmm so yours will be the plastic/plexiglass(forgive me for not remembering what exactly it is)and thats it no frame? I was thinking some sort of frame like a cabinet door or something. Do you have a pic of the metal clips you are referring to? Maybe I could use them to attatch it to a wood frame and then end up with a smoke glass looking door framed in wood to match the trim.

Yes they will be the plexiglass/acrylic.I am hoping to pick the clips up at best buy or circuit city. The cabinets I have in my family room have them. They are black, 1"x2", slip over the glass and can be tightened for a secure fit. I'll have to search for a pic.

I need to know if there is anyone on here that sells Dricore and the drywall hat channels?

Cant you get it at your local big box store? Then you can get me a pic of those clips ^ :p

Cant you get it at your local big box store? Then you can get me a pic of those clips ^ :p

Here is option 1 on the A/V cabinet hinges:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/imagehandlerCAKGYZBS.jpg

and option 2:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/imagehandler.jpg

The sign i want in my bar area:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/DS3679.jpg

Holy Toledo! Your a Marine! I did not ever serve in the military, but I have a high regard, and the utmost respect for those now serving and our Veterans. Thank you for what you did and the sacrifice you made for our country. We don't thank all of you near enough.

Regards,

RTROSE

Holy Toledo! Your a Marine! I did not ever serve in the military, but I have a high regard, and the utmost respect for those now serving and our Veterans. Thank you for what you did and the sacrifice you made for our country. We don't thank all of you near enough.

Regards,

RTROSE
1989-1994
Desert Shield/Desert Storm
Oper.Restore Hope
Somalia

OOH Rah
Still Miss The Good Times

Well finally got my power back on. We have been out for a week. Time to get back downstairs. We had a huge ice strom down here.

I attached a pic of those clips for the a/v doors, hope that helps everyone.

I started to gt my list together for monoprice the night the power went out but lost it on the computer. I will have to start over.

On the speaker wire, would 14/2 wire gauge be a good size or should I go bigger? Where should I run 14 gauge/4 wire? Dont want to pay fo wire I dont need.

Well finally got my power back on. We have been out for a week. Time to get back downstairs. We had a huge ice strom down here.

I attached a pic of those clips for the a/v doors, hope that helps everyone.

I started to gt my list together for monoprice the night the power went out but lost it on the computer. I will have to start over.

On the speaker wire, would 14/2 wire gauge be a good size or should I go bigger? Where should I run 14 gauge/4 wire? Don't want to pay for wire I don't need.

Glad to hear the power is back on. Unless you have been there you don't know how bad it can be to have you power off for days at a time. Electricity is something we all take for granted.

Regarding the wire question I'll tell you what I am doing. I decided to run 12/2 wire everywhere there is going to be speakers. I then decided to run two sets (four wires) to each of the three front speaker locations. I did this for the possibility of biamping/bi-wiring the speakers or for a different set of front speakers for a two channel setup at some point.

You should be plenty ok by using the 14/2 without any issues. I understand about not wanting to pay for wire you don't need however it is much easier and cheaper to run the wire where you THINK you may need it vs. not running it and trying to run it later.

Also when I was checking out prices for speaker wire Monoprice had the best prices on speaker wire and regarding the 12/4 wire is was more than twice as expensive as the 12/2 wire so instead of say 10 bucks for one run and 20 bucks for a 12/4 run it was more like 25 bucks so I just ran two runs of 12/2. Just be aware of that and that might save you some cash doing it that way.

Good to hear your back at it.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks RT. I considered using 12 gauge but I saw the local Blue box store had 14 gauge on sale for $97 for a 1000ft. I should have got it because the sale is probably gone.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement026.jpg
New Berklines from Costco
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement027.jpg
Side view
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement028.jpg
I like the chairs, I purchased 2 sets of 3. I really wanted leather, but I couldn't pass on the deal they made after all were gone but the last two sets. The wife said the savings will pay for the projector I want. She likes the microfiber versus leather. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement029.jpg
Sub boxes complete with sand filled bottoms and 6" of insulation on the rear. I put 3/4 of insulation on both sides of the boxes plus insulation joining the a/v rack.

Man those are beautiful chairs. What was the cost on them if you dont mind? Are those the ones that were on sale for less than $800 for 3? If so I heard of them but never actually saw them as the closest costco is 1 1/2 hour away. Making me think I should get in the truck and take a trip:D

They were regular $799 before tax, I got $100 off each set. Total of $1481.88

The wife liked the dark brown color of them. They are actually darker than the picture depicts. We plan on goin with chocolate brown on the trim and a shade lighter on the walls.

They were regular $799 before tax, I got $100 off each set. Total of $1481.88

How did you get $100 off?

At the time they were open boxes, so the associates didn't know if they were returned items or not. I got them home and all were still factory sealed in the plastic.

I have to say, I have had great success at my store. I like the items that you can purchase. As an example, when I purchased the XBOX360, there was no need to add on insurance. The mananger stated that if I had any problems that it would be replaced by them, no questions asked.

if you're looking to get chairs, I would consider getting them. If money is no object, then I would get the ones that you truly want.

At the time they were open boxes, so the associates didn't know if they were returned items or not. I got them home and all were still factory sealed in the plastic.

I have to say, I have had great success at my store. I like the items that you can purchase. As an example, when I purchased the XBOX360, there was no need to add on insurance. The mananger stated that if I had any problems that it would be replaced by them, no questions asked.

if you're looking to get chairs, I would consider getting them. If money is no object, then I would get the ones that you truly want.

In this economy money is truly an issue atleast for me. I like the look of these chairs and truly interested to see the color scheme that you decide on. I too am considering a wide range of color schemes and like to see what others have chosen. But love the chairs

On those chairs when they are gone they are gone, It is not a routinely stocked item. I'm a part owner of Costco (so are 1000's of other stock owners) so thank you very much for your purchase.

On those chairs when they are gone they are gone, It is not a routinely stocked item. I'm a part owner of Costco (so are 1000's of other stock owners) so thank you very much for your purchase.

WOW a legend!! The owner of Costco is among us :D Anyway hows about a deal? ;)

Thats a pretty sweet deal for 6 brand new chairs :) enjoy

WOW a legend!! The owner of Costco is among us

Actually when I joined, the membership criteria to become a member was much more restrictive. You had to work for the government, a non-profit, military or your company had a corporate membership. As an alternative you could join if you were a stock holder. At the time that was the only alternative available to me.

In hindsight I should have bought much more stock because it peaked at about a 20x return on my original investment. Of course, I also should have sold when it peaked............sigh................

In hindsight I should have bought much more stock because it peaked at about a 20x return on my original investment. Of course, I also should have sold when it peaked............sigh................


I think this works with most stocks. I was a part owner in WalMart when I was an associate in the early 90's going through college. When I left WalMart I cashed all the stock I purchased through the employee plan and ran for it. Had I kept the stock it is hard telling what it would be worth now. Probably enough to fully fund my HT project:(

Regards,

RTROSE

Getting ready to do my monoprice order again since losing power. Need 1000ft of cat 6, 1000ft of of rg6 quad shield and 1000 feet spkr wire. I would buy less footage but it seems the 1000ft boxs are cheaper. What do you guys suggest for HDMI cable (30-35 ft) from av rack to projector? One cable or two?

Need a suggestion on the componet cable. i like the 5 cable one with the component and rca in one. Is this a good idea? Any other cable selections that anyone could suggest that I might miss. My list is way longer than this, just double checking my list.

Getting ready to do my monoprice order again since losing power. Need 1000ft of cat 6, 1000ft of of rg6 quad shield and 1000 feet spkr wire. I would buy less footage but it seems the 1000ft boxs are cheaper. What do you guys suggest for HDMI cable (30-35 ft) from av rack to projector? One cable or two?

At the price for cables run two. I would also maybe just get the 50 ft version just in case your 30-35 feet isn't long enough.


Need a suggestion on the componet cable. i like the 5 cable one with the component and rca in one. Is this a good idea? Any other cable selections that anyone could suggest that I might miss. My list is way longer than this, just double checking my list.
What is the component cable for? Where is being used? If going from AV to PJ you only need 3 cables, but if going from say DVR to AVR then you would likely only use 4 (3 for video and 1 for digital audio if available).

They have a component/rca cable combined. It is actually a 5 cable. Figured for the price I would get that instead of component and a video cable.

What do you guys run up to the PJ? HDMI, component, video?, toslink? cat6 and anything else?

They have a component/rca cable combined. It is actually a 5 cable. Figured for the price I would get that instead of component and a video cable.

What do you guys run up to the PJ? HDMI, component, video?, toslink? cat6 and anything else?

I believe most run HDMI, component, and maybe cat5. Some run multiple of each. No need for any audio though. A conduit for future runs is also a good choice.

I believe most run HDMI, component, and maybe cat5. Some run multiple of each. No need for any audio though. A conduit for future runs is also a good choice.

Yea, I already ran a 2" conduit from my av rack to the PJ. Does it matter if the HDMI and component are ran within 12" of electrical wiring or should it be farther away?

Which one of these would be good?


Product ID: 3990
High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $33.21


Product ID: 4033
HDMI Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (for In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 30ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $35.82

Product ID: 3571
HDMI Silver-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (For In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 35ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $76.13

Well finally got my power back on. We have been out for a week. Time to get back downstairs. We had a huge ice strom down here.

I attached a pic of those clips for the a/v doors, hope that helps everyone.

I started to gt my list together for monoprice the night the power went out but lost it on the computer. I will have to start over.

On the speaker wire, would 14/2 wire gauge be a good size or should I go bigger? Where should I run 14 gauge/4 wire? Dont want to pay fo wire I dont need.

Im using 12, but that is the max that fits inside most terminals. Bigger the wire less reisistance. You can use 14 just fine but 12 is a little better.

Yea, I already ran a 2" conduit from my av rack to the PJ. Does it matter if the HDMI and component are ran within 12" of electrical wiring or should it be farther away?

Which one of these would be good?


Product ID: 3990
High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $33.21


Product ID: 4033
HDMI Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (for In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 30ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $35.82

Product ID: 3571
HDMI Silver-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (For In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 35ft (Gold Plated Connectors) $76.13



It' digital, so either it works or it won't. But the longer you run the line the better chance it will lose the signal. Go with the shortest that you can get away with. You don't want to much extra. I bought the 20 ft because the 25 was out and I am glad I did. The long HDMI cords are very thick!!! I have a two feet extra.

I would think I would want the 1.3a anyways. The difference betweeen tin plated and silver is???

I would think I would want the 1.3a anyways. The difference betweeen tin plated and silver is???

On the Monoprice site at the top theres a link to talk live to a tech. I used it and assuming you get tech dept and not cust service (i have had both) they are VERY helpful. No you may have to wait until after 8am pacific time. The live chat box wont appear until theres someone there to assist you but they are truly very haleful with deciding which cable you want. Just a helpful tip

Dseal,

To my projector I'm running an HDMI cable and one component cable set both from monoprice. I figure that is enough when the AV receiver I'm planning on using has 4 HDMI inputs and 3 component inputs. I will be running some type of conduit to the pj so if something changes in the future I will be able to run new cables at some point.

I figure it is over kill at this point to run more that that especially if you have conduit. If not then 2 HDMI and a component would be a minimum I would want to run.

Regards,

RTROSE

What do most of you do prior to drywall. I have the majority of my lighting circuits wired and switches installed. When the drywallers come in do they want you to remove the switches so they can cut the boxes easier or leave them in, no big deal?

Normally you would not install the switches etc. until they are done drywalling...including floating. Some even wait until painting is done but you can tape and protect at that point. Installers are bad about cutting your wiring with roto zips so you want to make sure to stuff your wiring way back into the box. This also means you need to have the circuits off as well so no one gets hurt.

Yea, I know I shouldremove them for drywall, but i hate the idea to go back to each box and reove switches, make sure each wire is marked and reinstall. Just hoping some might have done it different. Oh well, I will adapt and overcome.

Dseal,

I'm in the same boat as you. I have all of my electrical done and switches/outlet wired so I could work in my space. I am planning on talking with my drywall contractor to see what he wants me to do but typically most want to have the switches/outlets removed to help speed/simplify the installation. I will do what my drywaller wants me to do, but I wont do anything until I find out what he wants.

Regards,

RTROSE

Hindsight tip:

For basement builds you can simply twist the wires in the electrical boxes together completing the circuit then stuff them toward the back of the box. During your build just turn the lights on and off at the breaker box. That way you have tested your circuits and have switchable lights during construction with nothing in the way during drywalling.

Circuit City has a Monster Power HDP 1800 50% off for $165 and the HDP 2500 model for $220. First, are these good pieces of equipment? Second, how good a deal is this?

The 1800 model has 8 outlets and the 2500 model has 12 outlets.

Checked ebay, best buy and the price is about 50% off. Anyone have these models, if so what is your opinion of the quality of them.

Anyone have an opinion on these models at circuit city??

A couple guys I know that are heavy into audio say that those conditioners are the only Monster products that might not be priced as rip offs.

A couple guys I know that are heavy into audio say that those conditioners are the only Monster products that might not be priced as rip offs.

Yeah - as a rule I don't buy anything "Monster". They have built an empire selling way overpriced stuff.

But - that's just me...

If i dont purchase the Monster Power conditioner, what would you recommend. And price for it.

Belkin, APC, Panamax are the usual suspects.

Here is a thread on some closeouts. I had a panamax in my old space that I got cheap on e-bay. I mostly got it since it was a convenient rack mounted power supply, though I liked the 12v trigger outlets to power the amps.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1114902

I would say that at 50% off the Monster power conditioner would be a pretty good purchase. I would not ever buy Monster at full or close to full retail due to all of the reasons listed above. They are great marketers (like Bose) but paying half of what it lists for is about what it should have been to start with.

Regards,

RTROSE

Circuit City has a Monster Power HDP 1800 50% off for $165 and the HDP 2500 model for $220. First, are these good pieces of equipment? Second, how good a deal is this?

Depends on your purpose. If just wanting good surge protection, the APC P11VNT3 like:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Outlet-2375J-Surge-Protector/dp/B0012YFXSW

is a good surge protector unit with 11 outlets at a reasonable price. Tripp-lite also makes good surge protectors.

If you want more than a surge protector check out the APC H15 or Panamax 5300 or 5400. Since APC is discontinuing the silver color, those units can be had at bargain prices.

If you ever think you might have a series of external amps you might consider a pro-gear power sequencer as well. It will provide basic conditioning, surge protection and sequenced start-up and shutdown (necessary if you've got several high-power amps).

I had a buddy over who owns a local HT business. He suggested I move my A/V racks out of the HT and into the closet which is behind the HT. The equipment would then be facing into my rec. room. (Reference post #85).

I have a few issues.
#1 I would have to tear it all out and move it into the closet.
#2 Would it be easier to just make a false wall and place the speakers on the sides of the screen.
#3 How much space on each side of the screen would be appropriate? It is not in my budget to do an AT screen.
#4 If I have the equipment out of the room, how would I use the microphone or any other usb device for the XBOX 360 in the room? Is there a extension for the usb cord or do I wire a outlet box with a USB port and then over to the rack?
#5 I could have their company do all my A/V wiring for a decent price but I am not on a time crunch. Good thing about them doing it is that it would all be done professionally. Otherwise I need to figure out all locations of wiring. I am thinking of using a Control 4 system for all my needs.

Need some good feedback because the wife says I need to make up my mind

You know I'm a fan of getting the equipment away from the front wall. I guess the seating configuration would make it difficult to put the rack in the closet but facing into the back of the room..?

Even if that's the case, you could easily run wiring/conduit through that wall for the things you may need to route to the equipment easily. Maybe you could also have a mini-rack/shelf system higher on that back wall (above any seating) that you could put things like your DVDPlayer and XBox in to make them easily accessible from the room.

In the closet would not be a big deal. Just have to cut all the conduit I installed, remove the a/v racks, reinstall in closet, move the electrical, move additional wiring. Just throwing around ideas.

The front speakers would be at 5' off the floor if I leave it as is. Or change all that and move them down 1-2 feet. Is this worth it??

In the closet would not be a big deal. Just have to cut all the conduit I installed, remove the a/v racks, reinstall in closet, move the electrical, move additional wiring. Just throwing around ideas.

The front speakers would be at 5' off the floor if I leave it as is. Or change all that and move them down 1-2 feet. Is this worth it??

I think it would be - but I don't have to do anything :). Getting the speakers to ear-level would be a big plus.

Why have you abandoned the AT screen route...?

To be honest, the price of the AT screens. I dont trust myself on making one. I would rather purchase a screen and install it.

I understand the price thing. I'm tellin' ya though. If you can build this room, you can build your screen...

Ok. Who sells the AT material? Is it good quality? I would like to get the best I can for the application. If you have any idea, what would a 110" screen run me? Would I build the 3" border out of MDF or buy a frame?

BTW EBR, I checked out half of your build thread and it looks good. Did you buy all your fabric from Dazian?

You have a couple options. Check here --> http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?ID=113044&t=2182 for the basic Sheerweave material. Its $30yd so you could get enough for a screen for about $100.

Or, check out SeymoreAV.com. I'm pretty sure their "Center Stage" material is the same thing for $9/ft (so even less). Plus, I think they have a new improved material that just came out. I would get samples and check them out.

There is a lot of debate over this stuff vs. SMX. It is true that SMX is different now and he builds very professional and high-grade frames and masking systems and a great overall product but not at these prices and not DIY (anymore). I was there in the beginning and my screen is made of the original SMX material and I'm pretty sure it is basically Sheerweave 4500.

For as little as it costs, its worth checking out anyway...

I would build a frame. It can be done fairly cheaply (the seymore site has an example).

All the fabric on my walls is Guilford of Maine. I can't remember who I got it from just now. I don't have any Dazian. Only my screen was Dazian in the early going before I switched back over to the SMX material.

You have a couple options. Check here --> http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?ID=113044&t=2182 for the basic Sheerweave material. Its $30yd so you could get enough for a screen for about $100.

Or, check out SeymoreAV.com. I'm pretty sure their "Center Stage" material is the same thing for $9/ft (so even less). Plus, I think they have a new improved material that just came out. I would get samples and check them out.

There is a lot of debate over this stuff vs. SMX. It is true that SMX is different now and he builds very professional and high-grade frames and masking systems and a great overall product but not at these prices and not DIY (anymore). I was there in the beginning and my screen is made of the original SMX material and I'm pretty sure it is basically Sheerweave 4500.

For as little as it costs, its worth checking out anyway...

I would build a frame. It can be done fairly cheaply (the seymore site has an example).

All the fabric on my walls is Guilford of Maine. I can't remember who I got it from just now. I don't have any Dazian. Only my screen was Dazian in the early going before I switched back over to the SMX material.

Great, Thanks. I have samples on the way from SMX, GOF and Dazian. I checked out some more of your thread and noticed your A/V rack. If possible can you list your electronics?
I am also in the process of getting my cable/wire list ready for order @ monoprice. What are the major cables/wire that I should make sure are on that list?
The reason I ask is I noticed either a router or switcher on the left side of your rack. Plus I dont want to leave anything out. If it's to much trouble then I will figure it out.

Great, Thanks. I have samples on the way from SMX, GOF and Dazian. I checked out some more of your thread and noticed your A/V rack. If possible can you list your electronics?
I am also in the process of getting my cable/wire list ready for order @ monoprice. What are the major cables/wire that I should make sure are on that list?
The reason I ask is I noticed either a router or switcher on the left side of your rack. Plus I dont want to leave anything out. If it's to much trouble then I will figure it out.

Did you get a screen sample from SeymoreAV? What is GOF?

Here is a list of the equipment in my rack from top to bottom:


Furman power sequencer and conditioner – used to switch on and off the remote amps.

AudioControl Ten Series III EQ (rear surrounds)

Key Digital 4x1 HDMI Switcher – used for aspect control for anamorphic lens

AudioControl THX Bijou EQ (other five channels - not in use anymore)

Behrenger DEQ2496 – currently unused (replaced by BFD)

Behrenger Feedback Detroyer Pro – used to EQ the custom sub

External DVD drive and Touchscreen PC monitor – The touchscreen was running my modified version of DVDLobby from Cinemar but now needs to be re-worked since I have moved to VMC and MediaBrowser. The external DVD drive is for playing rental or other movies not ripped to hard drive through the HTPC.

Toshiba HD-A2 HD-DVD Player

Pioneer Elite VSX-84TXSi Receiver used as pre-pro only

Monitor for the HTPC/MainLobby machine.

Lexicon NT 512 5 channel amp (surround channels)

Remote located (due to fan noise) are my three main power amps – two QSC RMX 1450s and a Behrenger A2500. The QSCs power the front soundstage and the Behrenger the IB sub. Also in the back are a PS3 and DirecTV HD-DVR.


Did you see the router from the front or back? In the back I also have my network setup so that's not related. Also in the back there is the radio receiver and distributer for my remote control (on the wall, maybe that's what you saw)?

Monoprice is great for cables. What you need is completely dependent on what you have, though...

My mistake. I meant GOM not GOF. I understand on the cables. My issue is I dont know if I need all that equipment. I plan on either having a Pioneer, Denon, Onkyo or if I can afford it a Rotel rcvr. I dont understand what you mean by using it as a pre-pro. A Blueray player, DirectTV HDDVR, XBOX 360, Power conditioner. I know i need an amp but need to understand how that gets hooked up.

I plan on running 2 HDMI cables, 3 runs of cat6 composite cable and a fiber optic to my projector. Of course spkr wire everywhere. Sub cables to different locations. My router is on the 1st floor in the office so I need to run cat6 down to my rack and distirbute from there.
What would I need to future proof for the HDMI switcher?
Does this sound about right?

If you are just going to have a normal receiver with integrated amps, then you won't need other amplifiers. I am using my receiver as just a Pre-Processor. What that means is I'm not using the amps that are built into it. It has what's called "pre-outs" on the back which take the signal before amplification and routes it to external amplifiers. This allows me to have a lot more/cleaner power than the receiver itself can provide. Its not a necessary thing, just an enhancement.

If you are just going to have a normal receiver with integrated amps, then you won't need other amplifiers. I am using my receiver as just a Pre-Processor. What that means is I'm not using the amps that are built into it. It has what's called "pre-outs" on the back which take the signal before amplification and routes it to external amplifiers. This allows me to have a lot more/cleaner power than the receiver itself can provide. Its not a necessary thing, just an enhancement.

Okay I got you. Just need to have cables for that when I set up my rack. Suggestions on ext. amps? Would one suffice since I will start out with 1 sub?

I got the sample from seymoure today. I must say, I like the material.

Measured for insulation. 2200 sf of insulation. Whew!

If you decide to use separate amps I would highly recommend the Furman 20amp power conditioner/sequencer. It has a 12 volt trigger and stages the power-up of your amps so they don't all come on at once. It is one of my favorite things even thought nobody ever sees it. I would also recommend pro sound amps. They may not be audiophile grade but the amount of power they provide is amazing for the price. Some say the sound quality is just as good because the pro amps at 400 watts per channel or more are just barely working when powering my HT. It seems to me that more power = cleaner, clearer sound.

This is the power conditioner sequencer I was telling you about. It is on the top of my amps.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/9809/dscn4182rn3.jpg

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/6246/dscn4183yy2.jpg

I also use a Furman Power Sequencer to bring up my external amps.

The pro-audio route is the way to go with external amps, no question - as long as you can either mod them to quiet the fans or locate them out of hearing range (which is what I've done).

I also use a Furman Power Sequencer to bring up my external amps.

The pro-audio route is the way to go with external amps, no question - as long as you can either mod them to quiet the fans or locate them out of hearing range (which is what I've done).

Oh yes. When you get four or five of these amps running it is quite loud. Only the top half of my rack is accessible from the room. The amps you see in the pictures are located in the bottom of the rack and facing backwards. Even located outside the room they were fairly noticeable during quiet scenes. So I lined the inside of the compartment with 2 inches of OC703 (you can see it in the pictures and now you can barely hear them from inside the room. They are quieter than the projector anyway. I hope this helps.
By the way -- my rack looks like a disaster. Well, that's because it is. I guess I am not very tidy. And of course it doesn't help that I never did finish it either.

Does anyone know if I need Direct TV to come and run additional cables for a new satellite for HD?

Does anyone know if I need Direct TV to come and run additional cables for a new satellite for HD?

Depends on what you have now. If you're just now upgrading to mpeg4 from a small oval dish then I suggest you get one of their upgrades that includes installation of the new dish. I've always done my own installs, but had them do the last one. The new dish is much bigger and alignment is very critical.

Well, I making another change. I am moving the A/V racks to the back corners of the HT. This will solve a couple of issues.

#1 I won't be looking at the equipment lights while watching a movie.
#2 I can still access the equipment from the electrical closet.
#3 I can make the screen wider. 2:35 will be an option later.(HT 2.0)
#4 Cables to PJ will be shorter, speaker wire will be longer.

I am having issues on where to plan for the PJ. I have 3 different models in mind. I have went to projector central and input my measuements. They have me placing it anywhere from 14-19 feet. My soffit is at 17.5 ft from screen wall. I was thinking of placing it directly in front of it.

Just make sure you plan for an IR repeater solution so that you can still control all your equipment from your seat. :)

Just make sure you plan for an IR repeater solution so that you can still control all your equipment from your seat. :)

Is there a piece of equipment that would control all of them or would I need something else?

Has anyone used a Control 4 system in the basement or HT. It controls all lighting, and video?

I am looking into purchasing a Control 4 system. Any pros and cons?

Check Swithey's thread. I think I recall he is using control4 for something...

I used an X10 Powermid which is a very cheap and mostly effective solution.

Finished installing all of the A/V wiring for the basement, HT and other rooms in the house. Used 14/4 spkr wire CL3 for the HT, 16/2 for the rest of the basement. Ran cat and component wire to each tv location. Subwoofer cables and cat to different areas for touch panel control later. All cables/wire are terminated at A/V racks, lots of wire. Will post pics when I get a chance.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement013-1.jpg
A/V Rack wires

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement011.jpg
Rear of A/V Rack

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement007-2.jpg
12" Depth of infloor drain line

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement005-1.jpg
1x2 opening

Had to cut this opening so that I could tie into my waste line for the bar sink. I will be installing the "studor vent" or an island vent.

I've had the pleasure of operating an electric jack hammer when I built my deck. Nothing like tearing the blue blazes out of a nice concrete slab.

Your rack and wires look pretty neat and clean. Nice work.

Regards,

RTROSE

For each of my video (tv) locations, I ran a bundle consisting of 4 cats and a 5 wire used for component. 14/4 for HT speakers, 7.2. 16/2 for all other speaker locations, 5 different zones.

I called Direct TV the other day. I need to upgrade from the regular dish to the HD dish. They said they would not come out and run the RG6 and install the new dish unless I was ready for it now. I told them I want it installed but do not need the HD access right now. If I do that, I would be paying for HD service that I cant use until the basement is done. Heck, that might be a year from now. I was told to run additional RG6 from the dish to the multiplexer.

I have 2 runs coming in for my current DVR and 1 run coming in for my regular reciever. He couldn't answer my wuestion of how many more runs I need to bring down for additional recievers. I guess I will run 3 sets of 2wires down to be safe. I think they should come out to do this, not me.
Any thoughts???

Well, plumbing is done. HVAC humidifier done. Need to put in 6 new drops of HVAC and returns. Hope to get that done next week then insulate.

Per my last input, has anyone had the response I had with DTV or DiSH? Or did you run multiple runs yourself?

Well, plumbing is done. HVAC humidifier done. Need to put in 6 new drops of HVAC and returns. Hope to get that done next week then insulate.

Per my last input, has anyone had the response I had with DTV or DiSH? Or did you run multiple runs yourself?

I have in the last couple of days contacted Dish to talk to them regarding upgrading to HD and setting up the basement. According to the Dish CSR the setup for the basement would be included at no additional charge with the upgrade to HD. The only fly in the ointment is that I am only allowed to have 2 "leased" receivers. My setup will include three receivers so I have to purchase one receiver at $349.00 from them. So I guess I'm paying 349.00 for my basement install if I still had only needed two receivers then the basement setup would still have been free with the HD upgrade. I would call them back and see what they can do for a "Loyal" customer such has yourself. Or if that does not get you anywhere then I would ask for the number of a local contract installer and see what it is you need to do for your situation. Hopefully I have made some sense to you with my ramblings.

Good luck.

Regards,

RTROSE

Its been awhile since I've been on. Busy at work and in the basement. Here is some pics:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement023-1.jpg
New Screen Wall. Change some dimensions and now I have 76" x 13' to work with.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement026-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement027-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement028-1.jpg
Starting insulation.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement071.jpg
Sound Insulation

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement051.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement053.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement058.jpg
Bar Electrical and Cat5 Runs

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement056.jpg
French Door

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement031.jpg
Shower Plumbing

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Basement042.jpg
Bath fan and HVAC

I've got a punch list a mile long to finish before drywall. First bid came in at $4000. Not to happy with it since it is about 1100sf of finished space.

Anyone know a good way to prep your electical boxes for drywall so that you can still have lights bu without the drywallers nicking your wires?

All HVAC drops are done.

1st Drywall Bid $4000
2nd Bid $3000

I've got two more bids coming in. 2nd guy does a wood grain texture on ceilings. Looks good. Might apply it to the HT.

Anyone know a good way to prep your electical boxes for drywall so that you can still have lights bu without the drywallers nicking your wires?

My electrician just capped and pushed the wires into the backs of the unused boxes and put temporary switches in the others. Once the drywall was done, we primed and painted before the electrician came back out to finish.

All HVAC drops are done.

1st Drywall Bid $4000
2nd Bid $3000

I've got two more bids coming in. 2nd guy does a wood grain texture on ceilings. Looks good. Might apply it to the HT.


I got four quotes for my drywall (approx 750 sq feet of finished space)... They came in around :

4600 for drywall, mud, tape, sanding, ceiling texture
4000 for drywall, mud, tape, sanding.
1700 for just labor
2500 for drywall, mud tape, sanding. ceiling texture.

Guess which we picked... :)

Insulation and rock wool done. Drywall starts on Tuesday. Got it for 3000.

Well, once I had the drywall installed nothing else has really happened. I've installed 5 of the 8 doors. With all the summer vacations and work, I've been to busy to do anything else. Hopefully next week I can finish up the doors and start on trim work. After that need to install the stone around the fireplace and paint.

Finally now that Fall is here, I'm back downstairs. All doors installed. Startd trim work. Paint next week. At this rate I'll be done by 2012................

I am going to need you to finish a bit sooner than that so I can continue to look over your work for ideas for my (hopeful) summer 2010 build :)

Finally now that Fall is here, I'm back downstairs. All doors installed. Startd trim work. Paint next week. At this rate I'll be done by 2012................

Glad your back at it. Don't get down on yourself. It will all come together and I'll bet your finish before 2012!

Regards,

RTROSE

Drywall After Primed Painting
Before:
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture115.jpg

After:
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture117.jpg

Fireplace:
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture116.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture118.jpg

Painting of Recessed Trims
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture050.jpg

HT Primed
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture070.jpg

HT Base Trim Paintedhttp://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture123.jpg

A/V Racks
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture121.jpg

Ceiling
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture125.jpg

Bar Cabinets Installed
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/Dseal1/Picture135.jpg

I have made good progress. I'm catching up finally.

Looks good! Keep it up. Like the colors you have chosen and the bar area is looking really sharp.

Regards,

RTROSE

Great progress! Spending any time down there over the weekend?

Were did you go? Did you finish? Where are the pics?

Regards,

RTROSE

Once the projector was hung he was never heard from again...

Once the projector was hung he was never heard from again...


You're probably spot on!

Regards,

RTROSE