Hey guys. I finally got what I think is a decent calibration on my Panasonic TH-42PZ77U, and I would like some input from those more experienced than me:cool::D I used CINEMA picture mode and WARM color temp. I used HCFR and a Spyder2 sensor. I know about the accuracy issues with the S2, but I already owned one before I got the TV. To get the best results possible (according to what others have posted about the S2), I used the LCD mode with the filter for all the x/y readings and the CRT mode without the filter for all of the luminance (Y) readings. So the file is actually a combo of the two modes. I ran the readings in LCD mode and then edited the luminance values to reflect the Y readings taken from continuous measures in CRT mode. This seemed like a logical way to do this.:confused: What do you guys think?

I'm posting an HCFR file below. The file has the readings taken after I adjusted the contrast, brightness, gamma, and grayscale and then the color and tint controls in the user menu.

After setting the contrast and brightness, and adjusting the grayscale, I measured the primaries and input the x/y readings into the Accupel Display Calibration Calculator to get the proper target x/y numbers that I should use for the secondaries, and also to get the proper luminance target values for all the primaries and secondaries. I then adjusted the color and tint to get as close as possible to these target values, or least find the best compromise. This is the correct way to do this, right?

Anyway, the HCFR file is where I am right now. I think everything looks pretty good. The picture is great, and I know that's what really counts, but I would like some input on how the charts look. Does the gamma, contrast, and brightness look right? How about the luminance and gamma chart for red, green, and blue? Anything I can change to make things better?

There are two controls in the WB ADJ section of the service menu that I am curious about. In addition to RGB CUTs and RGB DRVs, there is an ALL CUT and ALL DRV. Obviously, these controls move all of the CUTs or DRVs up or down together equally. I'm assuming in theory, doing this retains the same color temp (ratio of RGB). Is this correct? What would be the reason for doing this?

I would really appreciate any thoughts or input.:)

Anyone have any adivce or suggestions?

Looks great to me. Your grayscale and gamma look beautiful--I'm impressed. You might choose to work on the color a little more, but there's really only so much you can do with the panasonic plasmas. With my 60u I was eventually able to get my green and blue primaries under 15 dE, and my red under 5. Unfortunately, that meant that my blue was a little undersaturated, but I'm subjectively pleased with the results too. You should probably record all of your settings if you go mess with the color at all, in case you decide you want to go back to the setup you have now. If you do mess with the color some, you'll probably have to fiddle with your grayscale some too--it's an iterative process. All in all, looks good!

jd,

the only thing I see in your gamma/grayscale/luminance graphs is that gamma nosedives right at the high end. Looking at the colors, it is green and blue that seem to dive and red does not. You could try lowering contrast some to see if this helps flatten gamma out. Shoot for 25 ftls at 100 % intensity white and see if that flattens it out. It's really a compromise - in order to get a flatter gamma at the high end, you may end up with too little light output so you have to sacrifice the gamma at the high end in order to maintain a bright enough picture for your viewing conditions. Also, when you lower contrast, you'll shift your grayscale response left to right so everything has to be re-checked. I would say that if grayscale suffers and the picture is getting too dim for you then leave things as you have them and don't worry about the gamma response at 90 percent intensity.

It sounds like you did the right thing with color and tint. I assume the Panasonic has no CMS to adjust the primary locations or adjust the individual brightness values of the colors? I did a quick calculation using the calculator and it looks like red and green's brightness levels are pretty good - blue is mildly over-bright by 12 % or so. As for your secondaries, it looks like magenta is almost spot on given your primaries locations, cyan is a bit worse (too blueish) with yellow being the farthest off (too reddish). Magenta is mildly "under-bright" - 15 % - but the other two seem good with regard to luminance. What else you can do really depends on what your tint control does to the secondaries and whether or not your bothered by anything. My guess is if you try to get cyan closer, yellow gets worse? If so, I'd leave them where they are.

As for the ALL CUT, ALL DRV parameters, not sure having never worked on a Panasonic plasma before. It sounds like they move everything in unison but I'd leave the alone since your grayscale looks good.

hope this helps,


--tom

There are two controls in the WB ADJ section of the service menu that I am curious about. In addition to RGB CUTs and RGB DRVs, there is an ALL CUT and ALL DRV. Obviously, these controls move all of the CUTs or DRVs up or down together equally. I'm assuming in theory, doing this retains the same color temp (ratio of RGB). Is this correct? What would be the reason for doing this?



You are correct in your assesment. The practical reasoning for these controls is to gang the individual RGB parameters together . If you adjusted the RGB controls the same amount thats essentially what the ALL controls do. Ideally it allows you to adjust Y to reach a target value for a given gamma (scaled between your already measured black and white point) at the cut and drive reference points without upsetting the color balance.

In practice however you will find that the balance will drift as you adjust the ALL controls and you will have to readjust the individual RGB controls to rebalnce. I tend not to use them that often prefering to adjust Y by using the individual RGB controls.

Ideally it allows you to adjust Y to reach a target value for a given gamma (scaled between your already measured black and white point) at the cut and drive reference points without upsetting the color balance.

I'm not sure I totally follow you on this. Could you break that down a little more?



The Service Manual for the TH-42PZ77U has a section on WB adjustment.

A couple of things I noticed about the instructions...

The listed target x/y values for the WARM temp mode are .313 and .329. I thought this was interesting.

It says to start with ALL the CUT controls (R, G, and B) at 80 and NEVER makes mention of adjusting them. Why is this? Is this something to do with the type of pattern that is used. It says to display a "white balance" pattern. What exactly is this?

It says to turn the GDRV down to C0 and then adjust the RDRV and BDRV accordingly to get the proper x/y AND THEN increase ALL the DRV controls together so the highest one is FC (the same thing as setting ALL DRV to FC). What does this part of the step (setting ALL DRV up to FC) actually do, assuming that it does NOT change the balance?

Also, why start with the GDRV turned down so low (C0)?

Overall, would this be a good method for adjusting the greyscale?

Anyone have thoughts on this method from the service manual?

The gamma is fairly flat with the exception of the steep drop off at 90%. I tried lowering the contrast one tick and it didn't really much of an effect. The steep drop was still there. When I lowered it another tick, the steep drop turned into a steep rise at 90% instead. I'm not sure how to find a compromise. Is there a way to flatten out the 90% mark?

Also, what do you guys think about the method for setting grayscale from the service manual mentioned above?

I think the methods we use are just fine for setting grayscale. I noticed those instructions in the 60u's service manual too, but I didn't pay much attention to them. One thing you could try with the contrast is to adjust it in the service menu. I believe it has a somewhat finer adjustment than the user menu does, so you might be able to flatten your gamma curve out. Of course, the contrast and brightness affect each other, so you might be able to see if a combination of changing them both will get you closer. As always, write down what you started with in case you need to go back.

Thanks for the reply drrick. I thought about the contrast control in the SM, but it doesn't seem to do anyhting at all. I increased the SM contrast control a considerable amount while taking readings and saw no effect to the 100% Y value. Also, it is at 000 (default) and cannot go lower, can only be increased.

If that's the case, then you may just have to leave it as is, or you could try to turn it down a few clicks in the user menu and then turn it up in the SM. If it's not that big of a deflection either way, then it may be fine as is--and you could just leave it.

Anyone else get a look at the file and have other suggestions on how to improve anything at all?

Thanks again drrick.

I just got a Panasonic plasma as well. Are you changing the settings in the standard picture menu or is it thru some kind of special access service menu? I have my htpc hooked up to mine and I'm trying to get the image to look better.

Accupel Display Calibration Calculator t

Can you give me a link for this? Was trying to find it on Accupel's site without luck (was probably staring right at it too!)...

Tx

Can you give me a link for this? Was trying to find it on Accupel's site without luck (was probably staring right at it too!)...

pbc,

If you go to http://www.accupel.com

and then click on "HDG-4000 Manuals" on the left hand side menu - the color calibration calculators are at the bottom of that page.

hope this helps,


--tom

Ahh ... that's why I couldn't find it. Thanks Tom!

How do you get the colour right without CMS and does adjusting the RGB highs and lows affect the primaries and secondaries?

Greetings

If you have to have it on this set, then you have to spend another $4K on a Lumagen Radiance scaler that will do CMS externally.

RGB highs and lows affect the grayscale. Not the primaries and secondaries.

Regards