For two subwoofers, I need an RCA splitter, right? Will any old RCA splitter work? Would gold plated be the best or is there really no difference from one splitter to the other?

Also, since my two subs are powered by themselves, I wouldn't have to worry about my Onkyo 705 outputting more of a load would I?

Thanks...

Any quality splitter or adapter will work. I'm currently running the Y cable below, if you don't need anything longer can't beat it for the price.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=189-300

Your 705 will output the same load no matter how many subs you have in your system. The signal isn't amplified until it gets to the subwoofer.

Well eBay links on these forums don't work well so let me ask you this --- If I search "rca splitter" on eBay, pretty much any one of the results I can buy will work, right? Or just certain ones?

Thanks again...

Well eBay links on these forums don't work well so let me ask you this --- If I search "rca splitter" on eBay, pretty much any one of the results I can buy will work, right? Or just certain ones?

Thanks again...If you are adding multiple subwoofers to your home theater system, why not consider line level inputs to your speakers. The dirty little secret in audio is that each speaker should have its own sub, thus making each unit full range.

Well eBay links on these forums don't work well so let me ask you this --- If I search "rca splitter" on eBay, pretty much any one of the results I can buy will work, right? Or just certain ones?

Thanks again...You have to be sure you get the correct genders. If you want to split at the AVR sub out, get a 1 male/2 female (1M/2F). If you want to split at the sub end, get 1f/2m. Look for the type with 3" to 6" leads as these are easier to work with than the molded ones. Stay away from the really cheap.

You can also run down to the local Radio Shack or audio store and pick one up.

You have to be sure you get the correct genders. If you want to split at the AVR sub out, get a 1 male/2 female (1M/2F). If you want to split at the sub end, get 1f/2m. Look for the type with 3" to 6" leads as these are easier to work with than the molded ones. Stay away from the really cheap.

You can also run down to the local Radio Shack or audio store and pick one up.

Okay, thanks. I got a busy week ahead of me though (work the next 7 days) so I was going to buy one on eBay with buy it now and that way it'll show up without me having to go out to the store this week. Maybe I can squeeze it in though.

I guess I need the 1M 2F adapter/splitter. I am still not sure I want another sub connected but hey I got an extra brand new one so why not? :)

If you are adding multiple subwoofers to your home theater system, why not consider line level inputs to your speakers. The dirty little secret in audio is that each speaker should have its own sub, thus making each unit full range.TRT, You are so right on... each channel in your surroundsound system is full range. So why limit yourself to just one sub.. why not add 2 or even 4 if you have the space... I'm running 5 powered subs myself and a pair of Buttkickers. Its like having a major system in your ride... 4-15" woofers in the trunk gettin down. :D, I ran 8-10" woofers back in the day. Now I'm in the home cinema scene.

If you are adding multiple subwoofers to your home theater system, why not consider line level inputs to your speakers. The dirty little secret in audio is that each speaker should have its own sub, thus making each unit full range.Running his subs in stereo is a possibility, but what if they are not identical? Wiring 2 subs in stereo to the speaker level outputs MAY be desirable in certain situations, but it can also be equally undesirable. It depends upon the exact circumstances and application. If you want flexible placement options in order to accommodate specific room issues, wiring the subs in stereo sort of precludes doing this. Collocation of the 2 subs may be preferable and/or the goal in other situations.


TRT, You are so right on... each channel in your surroundsound system is full range. So why limit yourself to just one sub.. why not add 2 or even 4 if you have the space... I'm running 5 powered subs myself and a pair of Buttkickers. Its like having a major system in your ride... 4-15" woofers in the trunk gettin down. :D, I ran 8-10" woofers back in the day. Now I'm in the home cinema scene.More is not always better. Using multiple subs can create a host of issues. There are many here who would argue that the use of 1 or 2 very capable subs, both simply connected to the processor's subwoofer output, is the best and most controllable way to utilize a subwoofer(s).

Having a HT system that sounds like "having a major system in your ride... 4-15" woofers in the trunk gettin down" is usually not the goal of most HT owners. ;)

You have to be sure you get the correct genders. If you want to split at the AVR sub out, get a 1 male/2 female (1M/2F). If you want to split at the sub end, get 1f/2m. Look for the type with 3" to 6" leads as these are easier to work with than the molded ones. Stay away from the really cheap.

You can also run down to the local Radio Shack or audio store and pick one up.I guess I need the 1M 2F adapter/splitter. I am still not sure I want another sub connected but hey I got an extra brand new one so why not? :)You can easily convert the genders of any specific ends to suit your exact needs using very inexpensive male/male or female/female couplers if you need to.

Exactly where you place the Y-adapter is up to you and may be dictated by your connection and placement options. For example:

1.) Split the subwoofer output right at the receiver and run two separate RCA cables to each subwoofer.

2.) Run one RCA cable from the receiver to the splitter, then 2 RCA cables from the splitter on to the subs.

3.) Run one RCA cable to the first sub where the spitter can be connected directly to the 1st sub, then run the 2nd RCA cable on to the 2nd sub.

You get the picture. So, figure out your wiring scheme, buy the Y-adapter that is most appropriate and use any couplers to convert the ends if you need to.

As long as it's truly shielded any cheapo should be fine. I use really cheapo's.

I mean you only taking about like 6" of distance here.

is it BETTER to use y split for two subs? can i use the line out from one sub and connect to the other? And can i mix two different sizes of subwoofer? i have a 10" and 15".

is it BETTER to use y split for two subs? can i use the line out from one sub and connect to the other? And can i mix two different sizes of subwoofer? i have a 10" and 15".In my opinion using the Y-splitter is the better option. You know that it is transparent and passes an unaltered signal. Although it may be, you really don't know for certain that this is true for the subwoofer's pass-through output. And some subs apply a high-pass to their pass-through output (this should be easy to ascertain from the manual or experimentally).

Connecting multiple subs of disparate capabilities is problematic. As an example, consider this oversimplified case of the use of 2 hypothetical subs. One subwoofer has a low-end capability of 18Hz. The other sub has a low-end capability of 30Hz. To calibrate 2 subs properly requires calibrating each one individually, first, then lowering their combined output properly with the processor's subwoofer trim an appropriate amount (3 to 6dB) to compensate for their additive output. Once this is done, both subs will end up calibrated properly, more or less, over the range of frequencies that they share (30Hz+). But because the output of the subs has now been reduced, the low-end range that is unique to the more capable sub, from 18Hz to 30Hz, will now be calibrated at too low a level. You definitely don't want your low-end capability to be calibrated to too low a level. But if you increase the output of the more capable subwoofer to compensate for the low-end deficiency, you will now end up being calibrated too "hot" over the range that the 2 subwoofers DO share (30Hz+).

In other words, because of differences in each sub's performance, calibrating them, evenly, across the full range that they are independently yet additively capable of reproducing is difficult.

That said, you should do what you want to do. If you're happy with the results, that's all that matters.