Update as of 12-15-08.
This screen is "done", here are 4 complete pictures:

Updated 3-22-09:
Finally made manual masking panels to view 16:9 material, link here, pict added below
Manual masking panel for 2.35:1 screen for 16:9 viewing (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16092636#post16092636)

This link should take you to the
Lessons Learned/Things Done Right/Things Done Wrong/What to do next time (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15302528#post15302528) post.
Includes:
-Itemized BOM and budget summary
-Alternate ways to build this, what I'd do
-Calculations used so anyone could do this easily

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBjsCt2aI/AAAAAAAACr8/JxQmNgRVpzQ/s400/IMG_0376.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPRpYEzavI/AAAAAAAACsI/sqesTLH1Urw/s400/IMG_0388.JPG

"I am the Kung Fu Panda, Ska-doosh!"
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SYCLx3WdYdI/AAAAAAAAD4I/qMtcY5jN3Ww/s800/KFP%20Wushi%20Finger%20Hold2.jpg

One of my favorite shots from Cars:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SVT814Qk7HI/AAAAAAAADWI/chAWcJ7io7M/s800/IMG_0819.JPG

Manual masks in place for 16:9 viewing:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULLY2DviI/AAAAAAAAETs/m6PfL_Oo88c/s800/Mask_ESPN.jpg





Below text is from original 1st post, un-edited.

I mentioned in “Talontsi96” build thread Birth of a DIY Curved Screen (AT Grey) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1020051) that I was going to use his (and others) curved DIY screen framing methods as a basis for my “R&D project” of making one with structural extruded aluminum metal framing.
Well, a few weeks have gone by and here is status:

My work uses this structural extruded aluminum metal framing for many testing fixtures; I’ve always thought it would also make a good screen frame material.
Sorta like a tinker-toy approach, std fasteners can be used, should make it easy for others who want alternative to a wood frame for whatever their reason. You can cut this stuff with carbide saw blade, easy workability.
No welding.
Now, with my HT project is the time to actually do something.

After speaking to the test technicians and the guy who designs their test jigs, he pointed me to their website,http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/framing_shop/ .

You've might have seen this stuff in manufacturing workcells or test labs, etc:
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/images/mas_config_main.jpg

Neat stuff, easy to order, lots of choices - too many if just looking at the catalog.
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/Product/Default.aspx?category=10101

Our work uses the larger sizes for jigs and test fixtures, 40mmx40mm and larger, however I felt 20mmx20mm should suffice for a static loaded DIY 2.37:1 curved screen frame.
This was also based on a meeting I had with their sales rep, nice guy, he informed me many of the large commercial screens use their stuff.

Here is x-section image from website:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SCs5ilApgyI/AAAAAAAAB50/ilme873W-fs/s400/Bosch%20Rexroth%20Aluminum%20Framing%20Shop%2020x20.jpg

Basic image is the frame itself will be solid/rigid foundation, then I will attach 1 x 4 pine board and put the correct curve per AussieBob’s calc sheet.

Sounds simple - I expect roadblocks but that's part of the journey.

My goal is DIY 128" diag curved 2.37:1 screen, with DW laminate as the screen material, due to young kids. When the kids are older, I'll use the frame as base for AT screen with speakers behind.

I calculated the metal framing portion weight to be just under 11lbs., that's about what the pieces/fasteners I have weigh.
Additional weight from using 1 x 4 pine boards and the DW laminate will be added.

I have the material at home, next weekend (Memorial weekend) this is my DIY project.
Stay tuned.
I'll post picts as this project matures.

I've seen other people here using sq alum tubing, but never this extruded structural alum stuff, if others have done this before post that link, I could not find any.

Here is basic layout from CAD system:
(not showing the 1 x 4 wood for curve portion)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SCx1wFApg7I/AAAAAAAAB8E/1y3VrzPFTiI/s400/MIKE%20FRAME.jpg

The framing is secured with these 20 x 40 corner gussets:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SCx3HlApg8I/AAAAAAAAB8k/Dl9tAagtLvI/s400/CornerGusset.JPG

Subscribed...

I didn't know there was a Jedi Church....?

Very nice... Good luck with the project and take lots of photos....

Very nice... Good luck with the project and take lots of photos....

Thx, you know how it is, once you "go public" you better deliver or you will get LOGANED!! Ha.

Seriously, this should be fun, and soon it will hang here:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SCXpSsAGHFI/AAAAAAAAB4E/ChVTmRxm7ic/s400/IMG_7156.JPG

Another company that supplies aluminum extrusions is 80/20 www.8020.net; I've used their extrusions for woodworking jigs/fences. They also have a clearance store on ebay too.

Mike, I am using this bosch extruded aluminum for my 2.35 diy frame. I like your plan to make it curved. also, i found it easy to tuck the screen material into the grooves.

Do you have the ability to curve these at your job? If so, can you say or describe what it is and how it's done. Thanks.

My original post stated (I know tmi):
Basic image is the frame itself will be solid/rigid foundation, then I will attach 1 x 4 pine board and put the correct curve per AussieBob’s calc sheet.

Do you have the ability to curve these at your job? If so, can you say or describe what it is and how it's done. Thanks.


Well, that could be done with the right equipment, modified tube bender, and some R&D/trial and error, I've been to some of our OE supplier's and am amazed what those tube bendes can do, trial and error than you program the routine in, very repeatable.

But honestly I'm gonna make a big/rigid "picture frame", then attach some easily/flexible wood for the actual curve. Wood being easy to screw the DW laminate to and curve. The wood will touch at midpoint and be the correct chord depth at the end, and naturally curve in-between. Should be close enough to the correct radius, I'll do some trig and confirm.

One goal is to keep this as DIY as possible for "average Joe" who does not have access to equipment that I do. The structural framing/corners/fasteners can be ordered online, rest of stuff HD/Lowes is my goal.

I expect the rigidity of the 20mm x 20mm frame to be magnitude stronger than the wood, so it will basically stay flat, but honestly until I try it I can't be 100% sure, unless I want to do some Engineering 501 with FEA/etc, and that's too much for me. If the 20mm x 20mm is not enough, then I'll try some countermeasure first before giving up on 20mm x 20mm and moving up to 30mm x 30mm. We have 30mm x 30mm at work, a 12 foot piece, and let me tell you that stuff is rigid! (and 40mm x 40mm, and bigger).

Mike, I am using this bosch extruded aluminum for my 2.35 diy frame. I like your plan to make it curved. also, i found it easy to tuck the screen material into the grooves.

Itai - honestly at my visit to your home in January I totally missed that - was looking at other aspects of your HT room in my 1 1/2 hour visit, cool, is there some thread(s) I can read in your build thread?

Mine is not AT material like yours (you know that already), but possible will be in 4-5 years.

The online price was not bad at all - around $100 for the materials I have, thru my work account I get extra 15% discount, I'll post the online shopping basket here later for all to see.

I "lied", sorry:
I have the material at home, next weekend (Memorial weekend) this is my DIY project.

This Memorial weekend I'm putting drop ceiling in 16 x 32 rec/play room that is next to the HT room, so Lowes can then install carpeting/vinyl and the major portion of the basement finally done except the HT room.
Then next weekend (5/31) I'm hopefully finishing my IB sub project, so this is delayed 2 weeks until 6/7-ish, as long as no other distractions happen.

Excuses, excuses.....The LOGANIATOR would be proud of my progress though.

Happy Memorial weekend guys.

I don't have a thread with explanations, but I do have pictures online. If you need an explanation or if you want to stop by again, let me know. I learned a few tricks to get the screen material fixed to the tubular frame.

the price is a joke if you get the bosch stuff, other brands are insanely expensive.

look toward the bottom and you will see the frame getting wrapped and installed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/itaibengal/BasementBuild

I don't have a thread with explanations, but I do have pictures online. If you need an explanation or if you want to stop by again, let me know. I learned a few tricks to get the screen material fixed to the tubular frame.

the price is a joke if you get the bosch stuff, other brands are insanely expensive.

look toward the bottom and you will see the frame getting wrapped and installed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/itaibengal/BasementBuild
I also expected the Bosch stuff to be really more expensive than it is, that's the effect of getting it from the people who make it, no 2nd/3rd person mark-ups.

Did you use 20mm x 20mm or 30mm x 30mm?
I'd guess 20mm x 20mm, hard to judge from this pict.
Visually comparing your frame to the wood 2 x 4's in your below pict (1 1/2 thick), appears you did use 20mm x 20mm?
My main reason with using 20mm x 20mm is trying to be as light and least expensive as baseline.
Then, if need be upgrade to the 30mm x 30mm.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R0TNm2XKQLI/AAAAAAAABls/d-Upx17QjXo/IMG_1663.JPG?imgmax=400

Others, check out Itai's picasa link, he did a really neat AT screen that flips open for access to speakers.
Itai, you did explain your screen "flipping up garage door method" to me, I remember that now. Very ingenious, sweet!
Below picts from Itai's build.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R0TNhGXKQHI/AAAAAAAABlM/5oEjV6teDK4/IMG_1659.JPG?imgmax=400

http://lh4.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R26TgK6Z9vI/AAAAAAAABt0/r8nNycJnA8w/IMG_1714.JPG?imgmax=400

Itai - I would love to see more info on your flip up method. Materials? Lessons learned?

I don't have a thread with explanations, but I do have pictures online. If you need an explanation or if you want to stop by again, let me know. I learned a few tricks to get the screen material fixed to the tubular frame.

the price is a joke if you get the bosch stuff, other brands are insanely expensive.

look toward the bottom and you will see the frame getting wrapped and installed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/itaibengal/BasementBuild


How did you attach the fabric to your AL frame ?

How did you attach the fabric to your AL frame ?

I believe Itai used a wood dowel rod "press fitted" into the grove of the extruded x-section.

You can see from his picts below.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R0TNmWXKQKI/AAAAAAAABlk/0H2l_bTEWgM/IMG_1662.JPG?imgmax=400

http://lh5.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R0TNrmXKQNI/AAAAAAAABmA/_a242FGik2A/IMG_1665.JPG?imgmax=400

http://lh4.ggpht.com/itaibengal/R0TNoWXKQMI/AAAAAAAABl0/yulJFzACYXc/IMG_1664.JPG?imgmax=400

Regarding Pivoting method:
Appears the smaller piece(s) of AL on each side attached provide pivot mounting locations for securing into main wood surround frame.
Itai will have to provide specific details.
Without seeing it though I can imagine say 3/8 x3" bolt going thru both and acting as pivot point. Remember, the Alum is so lightweight, probably under 16lbs total for the screen, not an issue.

a few words about the pivot. first let me explain that my access to the back is narrow, about 1.5 feet wide. for me its a non issuem, but this space does not allow easy access to replace speakers. Also, my subs would never fit through this opening.

1. I connected an additional piece of aluminum tubing to the back of the frame about 6 inches long.
2. I drilled a hole in the metal and into the wood screen wall and inserted a smooth metal sleeve with a nice tight fit into the holes. this creates a smooth surface for the threaded rod and will not wear the wood.
3. cut metal threaded rod to size and inserted between frame and screen wall using lock nuts on both sides as well as washers for spacing.
4. there are 8 brackets connecting the screen frame to the wood opening. these must be undone first to open the screen. this allows for the screen to return in the the exact position.

If you need pics I can take a few as well. Lessons learned, this is an often overlooked part of the build, easy access to remove or replace parts. I am very happy with how it turned out and was cheap and simple. all materials except for the aluminum tubing came from HD.

Screen frame - in the pics you can see I used a dowel that created a nice snug fit (with the help of a rubber mallet) to secure the smx to the frame. I also folded the corners and used metal screws (with pilot holes of course) to secure the corners.

Thanks Mike! Thanks Itai! I'd love to see some pics of the 8 brackets that connect the frame to the opening. I'm doing a "floating" screen in my living room. At first I was thinking about using drawer slides to pull out the screen. But your flip up method is a much better solution.

the eight brackets are simple L brackets. I assume they are made of either steel or aluminum found at any hardware store. In my case I used 1"x1" brackets with two holes on both sides of the bracket to eliminate any rotation.

my entire screen wall is covered in black GOM. I put this up after the screen was in place. it made it easy to make sure there were no clearance issues.

If you need pics let me know.

I went to Itai's home last week to check out his DIY AT screen project.
He used 30mm x 30mm, not 20mm x 20mm, so it will be interesting to see if my 20mm x 20mm I have at home already is stiff enough.

Took some picts of his screen pivot method, this one below is looking from the rear of the screen, it is the RH side (viewed from front side) pivot bolt.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SEJ_uMTcnNI/AAAAAAAAB_U/kjDB1h17WaY/s400/IMG_7361.JPG

Here is crude sketch of Itai's DIY screen.
Remember, he has a "fake wall", and this DIY screen is surrounded by that wall and attached to it both at the pivot point and the 4 "L" brackets, which I show as red box in my sketch.
(Itai, I thought I saw 4 L brackets used as securing, plus with the two pivot points, I don't remember seeing 8 L brackets securing your screen to the wood surrounding it, you can clarify if need be)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SEQxaMTcnaI/AAAAAAAACCo/3p6O0nkh_L4/s400/DIY%20screenItai.jpg

Budget info for the Bosch Rexroth framing material posted:

Here are picts of 2 shopping carts, first one is what I have in my basement, 20mm x 20mm profile, 3000mm (118") is max length for that, I am making my screen a 2.37:1 on the inside edge of the frame, so I ordered (5) pieces of 1245mm long (49"), this will give me approx 126" diag screen, plenty big enough for me.
With tax (6% in Mich), $173.42 pick-up at their Madison Heights location
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SEScacTcnbI/AAAAAAAACDI/GZyXDLTfS9U/s800/DIYScreenCartBoschRexroth.jpg


This second cart is same screen geometry as 1st, profile is 30mm x 30mm, this is what Itai used. His screen is slightly bigger than mine....
With tax, $231.43 pick-up at their Madison Heights location.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SESeu8TcncI/AAAAAAAACDQ/atXfWqleFug/s800/DIYScreenCartBoschRexroth30.jpg

You only save a few$'s if you order longer material and cut yourself, so I figured for the convience why not have them cut to size?

So, the 30mm x 30mm is $60 more than the 20mm x 20mm, I went with 3 inside supports, that may be over-engineered and most likely you could get by with just 2 inside supports, which if you have AT screen and center speaker obviously you don't want a frame member in front of the center speaker, i.e. Itai's design.

I also went with the "big" corner gussetts at all 10 locations, 2 bolts/side, to make the frame very rigid in-plane.
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/Dims/30x60_gusset_dims.gif
Itai used the "big" 2 bolt gusset at the (4) outside corners, while using a single bolt gusset for the (2) inside frame members of his design.
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/Dims/30x30_gusset_dims.gif

That works fine for his situation, because I will be warping wood for the curve I wanted a little more margin for the frame rigidity.

Bosch originally shipped my order with (10) single bolt gussette, and when I put that together the did not hold so well for the in-plane rigidity/torsion flex.
Swapped with them for the double bolt gussetts.


Updated timeline:
Looks like June 21 weekend is when this DIY screen project will be done, based on work travel and family weekend obligations ....
(you know, the married with children thing)

So, I have the frame material, the DW laminate, I've been exploring wood options @ HD/Lowes for the curved piece and will post my thoughts here prior to 6/21 to pick others brains.

So far, I've spent $170 frame + $120 DW laminate, round that to $300.
I figure another $50-60 total for wood/screws, and black border material.
Plus, I'll be using 3/8 "super magnetics" for my manual 16:9 masks, I'll have to add that cost as well. So looking around $375 for the total project, we'll see how close that is when done.

Thanks for the info Mike. You're doing a great job of documenting your build.

It's been a while since progress/posting.
As noted elsewhere in this forum, here in SE Michigan area we had bad storms weekend of 6/8 and we lost power for 7+ days, 6/8-6/15. That put me a few weeks behind schedule.

Below is quick run-through of frame assembly, so far I've not tackled the curve portion, that is 2 weeks away still.

Materials:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl0_x9fE0I/AAAAAAAACJQ/RF77tyw5u8I/s400/IMG_7148.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl1AlZdVnI/AAAAAAAACJU/8U5Veog_tOE/s400/IMG_7149.JPG

Sub assemble the corner gussets:
(4 fasteners/gusset, here only 3 shown)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl1BfZITLI/AAAAAAAACJY/SrM91GEVYyk/s400/IMG_7695.JPG

I drilled (5) holes in the top and bottom member for Allen wrench tightening of end screws in the 5 vertical members.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl1CF7J18I/AAAAAAAACJc/ebodsy7W88s/s400/IMG_7696.JPG

Slid each member to it's position, just slightly tightened the end screw, attach corner gusset, slowly tighten "T", mostly it self-aligns and locks in place.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl1C0J28nI/AAAAAAAACJg/6NyXWOFg_9s/s400/IMG_7697.JPG

Once or twice I was not sure it locked correctly, so I used a finish nail to "hold" it while initially tightening it, that worked and ensured 100% correct alignment:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGl1E5WRKkI/AAAAAAAACJo/UgSc8CLUG8g/s400/IMG_7699.JPG

Here is a 126" diag 2.37:1 very rigid/strong lightweight frame.
This will become the backbone for the curved wood portion.
Next time I post I'll have the curve method worked out, I might post some ideas before I tackle it.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGlyl64MjzI/AAAAAAAACJI/q78wwecd-hk/s400/IMG_7887.JPG

By the way, here is my temp "ghetto mount" of my Panamorph U380, seeing scope for 1st time was real neat:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SGlyr8FVTpI/AAAAAAAACJM/hCooT2_0l3U/s400/IMG_7889.JPG

Hey nice work I used the same material accept the 1.5" stuff or my frame some time ago and plan to build a new 10' screen here shortly as the whole room is getting a makeover. I have a supplier local just go down and pickup what I need.

Nate

Lat to this party, but... FYI, if you use the 30x30 profile (much more rigid), they make some groove covers for it that double as a panel slide. Those are strong enough to "snap" into the grooves and bind a piece of blackout material. I have a test 2.35 screen I made with it for evaluating pincushion on anamorphics. It is free standing. I'll try to take a photo of it.

Scott

My original post stated (I know tmi):

I expect the rigidity of the 20mm x 20mm frame to be magnitude stronger than the wood, so it will basically stay flat, but honestly until I try it I can't be 100% sure, unless I want to do some Engineering 501 with FEA/etc, and that's too much for me. If the 20mm x 20mm is not enough, then I'll try some countermeasure first before giving up on 20mm x 20mm and moving up to 30mm x 30mm.


Mike... did you find the 20x20mm strong enough? With a smaller screen (101" diag, 93" width) could I go with the 30x30mm and not use the vertical bracing?

Ron

Great thread guys !

From what I have read both "mtbdudex" & "Iitai" used Bosch T-slot rails, 20mm & 30mm respectively.

Questions for; "cubesys", Nasty N8" & "GetGray";
What brand of T-slot rails did you use in your builds ? What size frames did you go with & did you use vertical supports ?
How did you attach your screen materials to the rails ?
"Nasty N8" what was your screen fabric ?
You guys have any photos of your builds ?

Did you find it necessary / or good to paint your frames black, before adding screen fabric ?

These questions may have been answered already, but since so many posts were lost, I thought I would ask.

Thanks,
John :confused:

HDGTX/John: Here is the 2.35 screen I tossed together with the Bosch 30x30 for anamorphic lens testing. The strings you see in the photos were special markers I was using, just ignore them. I threw this together in a couple of hours from spare 30x30 stock and a piece of blackout cloth. The material is held firmly in place by the Bosch channel covers (not the skinny/flat ones, but the ones that double as a panel holder). You can see I have it stretched tight. What you can't see is there is a middle vertical member. Also, I just used spare small gussets I had on hand. Using the larger ones give some flexibility to stretch the fabric more if needed. It's no Stewart, but for a screen I could literally draw or write on if I wanted (didn't), it serverd it
purpose fine. This one is free standing on 2 30x30 "legs". I took acloser shot of the corner, too so you can see the covers holding the material.

It would be trivial to add a velvet,etc. covered border using the same small gussets, or leave spaces in the black covers to insert a T-nut along the frame.

You are close enough I might sell it if you wanted to come after it. But I might need it for another test soon first.

Rough picture, In an unfinished area, excuse the mess:



http://www.techht.com/photos/TestScreenFull.jpg

http://www.techht.com/photos/TestScreenClose.jpg

Hi "GetGray",

Thanks for the great info & the pics, kind of you to take time to post the info & pics. Great looking screen
& frame, what size is it ? When you get ready to sell, PM me. I may not be ready yet, no projector yet. The BOC screen surface looks very tight & straight. Does your center vertical support show thru at all on the screen surface ? I wondered if one should use the smaller size of vertical T-rails (20x20mm in this case) in the center of the frame to avoid them showing thru the fabric (in case the fabric rests against them) ?

Still in planning stage. Looked at a bunch of stuff on Bosh's web site today -- lots of cool stuff. That top T-slot rail would make a great place to hang & slide a mask assembly from. Thanks again.

John :D

Hi "GetGray",

Thanks for the great info & the pics, kind of you to take time to post the info & pics. Great looking screen
& frame, what size is it ? When you get ready to sell, PM me. I may not be ready yet, no projector yet. The BOC screen surface looks very tight & straight. Does your center vertical support show thru at all on the screen surface ? I wondered if one should use the smaller size of vertical T-rails (20x20mm in this case) in the center of the frame to avoid them showing thru the fabric (in case the fabric rests against them) ?

Still in planning stage. Looked at a bunch of stuff on Bosh's web site today -- lots of cool stuff. That top T-slot rail would make a great place to hang & slide a mask assembly from. Thanks again.

John :Dre size, it's whatever the blackout cloth width is, I forget, 54" I think about 10' wide 2.35. Center post does not touch or show. No need to use smaller posts. That span is too long for a 20mm post anyway IMO. yes, the structural profiles are like an adult erector set. Chop saw and a hex key set and you can build a lot of cool stuff. I use it to make my CineSlide mounts (see "options" link at www.cineslide.com). But mine are reanodized black.

Sorry I missed the question.

What brand of T-slot rails did you use in your builds ? I used a local company Frame World 1.5" thick

What size frames did you go with? First one was 106" 1.78:1 new one is 10' wide 2.37:1
did you use vertical supports ? No plenty strong
How did you attach your screen materials to the rails ? First one I used a rubber hose pinching the fabric in the groove (kind of a pain) and some super glue in spots. new one not sure may try velcro
"Nasty N8" what was your screen fabric ? First one Da-Lite Cinema Vision Second I have Seymour AV acoustic transparent
You guys have any photos of your builds ? Posted

Did you find it necessary / or good to paint your frames black, before adding screen fabric ? No the frame section was covered with the screen wall

Nate

Thanks "Nasty" !

Good work guys :)

Mark

Great thread guys. So glad I found it. I tried building a frame for a 128" wide 2.37:1 screen Tuesday night and it was horrible. 2X4's just aren't very straight at 11' long and it doesn't take much of a bow to make your screen bad.

My question: If I use the 30X30 tubing, will I need vertical support bars or will it be rigid enough? I'm using the sheerweave fabric for AT and I'm worried about being able to see the vertical supports through the screen material as well as possible sound issues.

No, I've not "given up" this DIY project, other normal life distractions got in the way for a while.
Plus, like others here have found out, the temp primer drywall'd wall screen does a decent enough job so we've been watching that and the "pressure" to finish the "real" screen is less.
Since I want to carpet the HT room over xmas vacation all these little/final DIY projects now have to get done.

Therefore, finally made some progress over Thanksgiving weekend (Sat afternoon and Sunday).

Wood frame making that will become curved and used for attaching DW laminate & screen black border too.
I used base board molding from HomeDepot, it was 1/2" thick x 4" wide, mostly flat with slight router shape on the top edge.
Used table saw to get rid of that for a 3 1/2" wide piece.
The whole wood frame will be mostly overhang the alum frame by 1/4" on the inside and the rest overhang on the outside.

Measure/cut confirm before attaching together.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOfwQdfmgI/AAAAAAAACjE/bHw5Zasa8oY/s400/IMG_0085.JPG

Wood frame together, used dual corner braces to keep the frame "flat/in plane to itself" when it becomes curved:
(that's my theory at least...)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOfxlsaEEI/AAAAAAAACjI/QGot6jiGe2M/s400/IMG_0087.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOfysO82OI/AAAAAAAACjM/0zRZ_YI7KLA/s400/IMG_0088.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOfzuVVKWI/AAAAAAAACjQ/IXOjNkxAxZA/s400/IMG_0089.JPG

Getting ready to attach the wood frame to the alum frame.
The alum frame is blocked off ground at the 4 corners and center.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf0my6QsI/AAAAAAAACjU/e4z-WBA-6mE/s400/IMG_0091.JPG

Corner shot and misc hardware to be used:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf1n8PwZI/AAAAAAAACjY/xqu8vRBiArw/s400/IMG_0092.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf2wFl41I/AAAAAAAACjc/vXoAV3mJN3Y/s400/IMG_0093.JPG

After debating/different design concepts for the end supports, I decided to use 4 x 4 (really 3 1/2 x 3 1/4) Cedar post. I picked a very tight grain running the correct direction for my mounting.
Using geometry/trig 101, and wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_segment, calculated the correct angle.
Notched them for nesting onto the alum frame and attachment method.
This pict shows 6 "identical" blocks that are cut at @ 7.11 degrees, height of 3.67", 3 used per side.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf4ByWcxI/AAAAAAAACjg/gbCHS0t9-BU/s400/IMG_0097.JPG

Missed taking some in process shots.
Basically aligned wood frame over alum frame, with 1/4" overhang all round on inside.
Clamped at 4 corners.
Attach at middle.
Attach at mid support. I used same cedar stock, calc correct angle.
Here shows with 1st end support in place roughly during confirm fitting.
Ended up using 2" decking screws to attach the cedar block to the alum frame and also the wood frame to the cedar block.
All mtg screws on wood frame are sunk just below surface for flush DW laminate mtg.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf5Ys1bVI/AAAAAAAACjk/ME3NNCd7hP0/s400/IMG_0098.JPG

A composite alum/wood frame curve screen in process.
The small block was cut at 3.55 deg with a height of 0.914"
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf6MxGpVI/AAAAAAAACjo/DLOX57M8HIw/s400/IMG_0105.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf7kBFZrI/AAAAAAAACjw/-WFXVQHBhEc/s400/IMG_0108.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf8e1ATxI/AAAAAAAACj0/EZwuhI0XTmw/s400/IMG_0112.JPG

Nothing like some background AC/DC while working...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf7KM0SaI/AAAAAAAACjs/78xWUbvaii4/s400/IMG_0106.JPG

Stay tuned, I'll be working on this nightly.
I'm going to get the mounting done next and mount w/o screen.
There will be a border frame attached on top of the wood frame once it is laminated.

Great thread guys. So glad I found it. I tried building a frame for a 128" wide 2.37:1 screen Tuesday night and it was horrible. 2X4's just aren't very straight at 11' long and it doesn't take much of a bow to make your screen bad.

My question: If I use the 30X30 tubing, will I need vertical support bars or will it be rigid enough? I'm using the sheerweave fabric for AT and I'm worried about being able to see the vertical supports through the screen material as well as possible sound issues.

Do like Itai did, add just two vertical support bars, his is AT fabric and w/o lights no problem for see thru (I was at his home a few months back). Spaced so your RH/Ctr/LH is not in the way.

Without you will get too much flex, the alum 30x30 is not that strong by itself for that length (I've held them at work that big).

OF course you could do the Mechanical static load analysis, all the parameters are in the Bosch info, if you like doing that stuff.

Few more picts of activity tonight.
Made 4 more blocks to give added stability on the corner along the top and bottom member.
That 4 x 4 cedar sure is good wood to work with, nice grain and does not split.
These were cut on 5.78 deg, 2.42" height, 2 RH and 2 LH's made/installed:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxJDzRAjI/AAAAAAAACj4/dmh4K_967Pk/s400/IMG_0113.JPG

The one on the floor were installed tonight:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxJ21brtI/AAAAAAAACkA/Yilg05D_R-A/s400/IMG_0117.JPG

Curvature is now consistent w/o any flat spots, success so far!!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxKnRG6WI/AAAAAAAACkE/dXKcwEsKOt4/s400/IMG_0119.JPG

Here I took a square and ran it across the top/bottom along the width of the screen frame, constant gap confirms no flat spots.
I could measure the chord height "h" and reverse calculate the screen curvature, for a chord length of 2', to see if it is 39.7' radius, I just might do that tomorrow.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxLjC8NdI/AAAAAAAACkI/SY5wQcORDBk/s400/IMG_0120.JPG


Tomorrow I'm going to work on the wall hanging and see what part of the frame needs to be painted flat black. I'd like to set this at the same height as the drywall viewing was painted, plus give me 2-3 adjustment's up/down in 1" increments, just in case for future proof, so now is the time to make that.

I'm taking Thursday off work, my son has a school field trip, when we get back @ 2pm my goal is install the DW laminate then.
And of course hang it up, re-calibrate the PJ to the DW laminate, and watch the 1st Blu-Ray on it of possible the night.
Finally, light at the end of the tunnel.
I will be working on the black velvet border this weekend, I'm going to the DIY screens forum to see how others did theirs.

Wed 12/3 progress.
-Making & hanging cleats
-1st frame hanging
-rough pincushion check
-determine what on the frame needs painting prior to laminate install (via paintbrush hand apply, not spray paint)

Hanging DIY cleats, I tell you that $39 laser I bought from HomeDepot 7 years ago is one of my favorite tools.
It sticks onto walls via small pin needle extension and you can barely tell afterward.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STc1QqfqaCI/AAAAAAAACkk/HpsJxmA56Zk/s400/IMG_0124.JPG

Frame up and level!
Cleats worked like a charm, and I could easily adjust the frame side-side.
And yes, I do plan on rope back lighting, that is why you see the recessed 120v access, the other gang box houses Cat5e for future screen masking controls if I ever go that route.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STc1RPHi6rI/AAAAAAAACko/kE-nu1VnYVY/s400/IMG_0128.JPG

Close up of cleat, one each side, nesting into the alum framing.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STc1TbnwFfI/AAAAAAAACk0/AG_znqFvu-Q/s400/IMG_0134.JPG

Side profile, I'm stoked. Can't with for the laminate to be done, which I am attaching via contact cement to the wood (not the center piece).
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STc1UkY4v3I/AAAAAAAACk8/nPLRSJIF4dE/s400/IMG_0138.JPG

Pincushion grid study:
My PanamorphUH380/SonyVW60 combo need fine tuning obviously, I put it up there months ago and now will dial it in perfectly after the screen is done.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STc1V9YwceI/AAAAAAAAClE/Ag4K0oZG6-0/s400/IMG_0145.JPG

Ok buddy, you are going to become my screen!:)
This is a 5' x 12' sheet of HomeDepot special ordered DW laminate.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiISA4s1kI/AAAAAAAAClI/7VMnt4KQ7UI/s400/IMG_0195.JPG

Measure/score/cut/little "oops" :( on one side, that's why you give 2" overhang all around for "oops" while cutting and install.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiISnuKQ2I/AAAAAAAAClM/V_46R0EsvVY/s400/IMG_0196.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiIUPQyWeI/AAAAAAAAClU/phC1EFhcLZk/s400/IMG_0198.JPG

Pre-check, getting ready, kids waiting/watching.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiIVAKRF-I/AAAAAAAAClY/gagGXpnwPlk/s400/IMG_0199.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiIXdElUvI/AAAAAAAAClg/LsaAVwhNbiU/s400/IMG_0201.JPG

My wife and I did a few dry trials, can I tell you it really is a bear taking a 127" long x 61" wide sheet of laminate and flip it over and expect a good install?
Coordinating hands, having them crossed when the sheet was upside down and then while turning over they became correct, little details that needed trials before actual.
I had to put my Manufacturing hat on to error proof the install process as much as possible.
I came up with these install guide jigs, 3 on the bottom side to center the sheet and line up one edge.
The edge of the center one was the dead center for the laminate, I put a mark on the white side to line up with that.
The other 2 jigs I spaced 1' apart from center, that was about how much of the bottom laminate was there when sagging prior to the center actually touching the wood frame.
We trialed with the jigs 3 times and felt very confident to do this with just us 2 adults.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiIY0Wk8mI/AAAAAAAAClo/-G61LnESQOI/s400/IMG_0203.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiIZRrYxmI/AAAAAAAACls/ehqPGJibOdQ/s400/IMG_0204.JPG

Glue applied first to laminate, then the wood, in my past experience the wood dries faster because it soaks some of it, so the laminate is best applied glue first, then the wood. I actually turned the fan to the lamiante to get it the same tacky state as the wood, then turned it facing out of the room to remove the fumes, it's winter here in SE Michigan!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiY1ayrzdI/AAAAAAAAClw/jQkwiAdWeOQ/s400/IMG_0206.JPG


It worked!!
Those guide jigs helped so much, easy to line up the center point and have confidence the laminate is where it should be, we gently lowered the laminate (Imagine it is curved, which it is), center touched, then as we lowered it touched from center to sides w/o any gaps. I then took the "J" roller and applied pressure.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiY2KyrMyI/AAAAAAAACl0/rftwun1UKxY/s400/IMG_0209.JPG


I'm going to let it dry tonight and router the excess tomorrow.
That screen is being hung and viewed tomorrow night, time to celebrate getting this far. :D:D
I'll be working on the border and post that progress later.

Well, I waited 2 hours after the laminate install and decided to router the laminate before I went to bed tonight. One more thing done, I forgot how messy routering laminate is......now vacuuming.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STitGSHtAlI/AAAAAAAACl8/kjs59aPbvfM/s400/IMG_0211.JPG

I might have missed it, but how did you calculate the curvature needed for your screen ?

Early in this thread it seemed that maybe 20mm x 20mm alum frame might be to skinny/thin/not strong enough.

Fortunately for me not so.
I had expected some flexing of the alum frame as I warped the wood and attached it, since it's moment of interia is finite......That why I carefully picked 1/2" thick wood that seemed to me to have enough flex to not curve the alum frame (mostly not flex it) yet when curved gave a "constant curve" for me to achieve the 39.7' radius from AussieBob's calc sheet (for you ifeliciano). The baseboard mldg fit the bill. I spent many times at Home Depot/Lowes trying lots of various products, part of the DIY spirit to learn.

I ended up with about 3/8" "reverse flex" on the alum frame, prior to laminate install. Not bad at all!! If I had used the 30mm x 30mm I'm sure that flex would have been below 1/4" but still there also.
You can sorta see the reverse flex here:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STiwGn6CQ4I/AAAAAAAACmI/G83UY0Q4AcI/s400/IMG_0110.JPG

I solved that issue by adding 2 sliding blocks at the center portion whose sole purpose upon screen mtg to wall is to then slide and hold the frame back in plane. These worked like a charm.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STitLYf0hBI/AAAAAAAACmA/ZeVUuy3JbVo/s400/IMG_0212.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STitL2L5dsI/AAAAAAAACmE/uxNf0kN3v6o/s400/IMG_0213.JPG

So, for future builds what would I recommend?
Honestly, either 20mm x 20mm or 30mm x 30mm Bosch alum frame would work fine, whatever fits your budget and gut feeling or analytical calculations.
20mm x 20mm worked for me and saved some $$'s in the process.
Easy to drill on center, easy to cut, easy to assemble.

I'll weigh this screen project tomorrow, I'm curious where it it weight wise now also.

I just hung my DW 128" screen this morning with my wife's help before I went into work, we watched the morning news downstairs.

I did a quick calibration DVD, then we watched Blu-ray StarWars: The Clone Wars with my 2 young boys, put them to bed, then popped in Blu-ray Casino Royale.
Here's the screen hung, black velvet border is this weekend project, with side profile:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToNR-m8QyI/AAAAAAAACoA/H9459syoMIo/s400/IMG_0259.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToNQcfDzvI/AAAAAAAACn4/vA_Ry3E24SQ/s400/IMG_0251.JPG



Hey, what's a DIY screen build thread without some screen shots when you are near the end, that's what it's all about: watching/viewing/becoming immersed in the movie and forgetting for a few moments where you are.

So, here are a "few"obligatory first night screen shots:
flash off, just cropped nothing else (my camera skills suck).
All I can say is the detail in the dark/black scenes is so there, the whites are bright and vibrant, the colors come across well like color.

Blu-ray StarWars: The Clone Wars, my 2 and 4 year old boys really-really loved this movie.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToD-TsYxnI/AAAAAAAACnY/HhlXbrNKr4U/s400/IMG_0242.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToD-zEI8xI/AAAAAAAACnc/I2kQEBT4jhs/s400/IMG_0243.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToD_9PwbLI/AAAAAAAACnk/4f7DMWW1Y5Q/s400/IMG_0245.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToEAULf7lI/AAAAAAAACno/iFmF4igPzXM/s400/IMG_0246.JPG
Now in 'scope size'
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SToEBvPokYI/AAAAAAAACnw/nKys1mwr5QI/s800/IMG_0248.JPG

Blu-ray Casino Royale:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STn766bAP4I/AAAAAAAACm4/_GGZGr2C02s/s400/IMG_0228.JPG http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STn77-yIA4I/AAAAAAAACm8/eXa18jF9kU8/s400/IMG_0229.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STn79cX9CuI/AAAAAAAACnI/ct8qrlKm0H4/s400/IMG_0235.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STn79zAm9xI/AAAAAAAACnM/KmzVQ0V9FXI/s400/IMG_0237.JPG

The detail and depth in the dark shot scenes blew me away, of course in 'scope size'.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STn7--SM1AI/AAAAAAAACnU/0WV9faINUzE/s800/IMG_0240.JPG

I wanted my border to be very rigid along the skinny length so it would be easy to mount a straight line, but flexible to easily conform to my curved laminate screen.
After trying many-many moldings at HD/Lowes, I settled on this "Tuf Board", it fit all my rqmts perfectly. Easy to cut, can be routered for inside bevel, strong for screwing into (I tested it).
I bought (1) 12' board, ripped in half for the big top/bottom pieces, and (1) 6' board, ripped in half, for the RH/LS sides. They came in at 2 1/2 wide.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STyr-4YetXI/AAAAAAAACoY/lGEp7QnQJRk/s400/IMG_0276.JPG

Below is my test of the bevel and 45deg miter, ready for cutting the real ones.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STxVWPTv-uI/AAAAAAAACoE/HOIMPs-ZmF4/s400/IMG_0280.JPG

Workshop above the 3 car garage, COLD! (not heated yet), but big/open workspace. Lots of white powder/dust instead of sawdust.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STyvJ8vh4LI/AAAAAAAACog/1GS_2q2t2ME/s400/IMG_0281.JPG



[edit comments added on 12-18-2008]
Sorta mistake - Lessons learned for others.
I embedded the magnets in the border itself, not the wood backing behind the border. The issue with that is now the masking will be held 3/4 " off the laminate surface. If I had put the magnets in the laminate wood backing (frame), in area just inside the "planned" edge of the border, then the manual masks would have been directly mountable onto the laminate and held invisible to the laminate. I know others have done this via just slight interference fit/friction to the velvet border, but with my 45degree chamfer their is only about 1/8" or so "flat" for that. I have a retrofit idea in mind, embed the magnets in a small separate board, same 1/2" thickness, and attach that to the wood frame via small joiner strap. It will be invisible to the viewing side and hold the magnets where I really want them. Next time I take the screen off the wall (to install 4-6" acoustic behind it) I'll do that and take a few picts.


I've also embedded (5) 3/8 magnets each RH/LH side for manual masking once these borders are installed.
(2 on top/bottom, 1 on side)
The magnets I use are 3/8 dia Neodymium magnet, you'd be suprised how strong those are, many-many DIY'er use them for blind speaker grille attachments. I bought mine from Parts Express 5 months ago for another project, these were leftovers. I can't find them at PE but amazon.com has them as well, http://www.amazon.com/Rare-Earth-Magnets-Pack-10/dp/B00024DNVC
Technical Details

* Super powerful rare earth magnets
* Countless uses all around the house
* Holders, closers, clamps, toys and tools
* Neodymium iron boron (NIB) discs
* 10 disc magnets, 3/8" diameter x 1/8" thick, 10 lbs of pull

Product Description
These amazingly powerful magnets make fantastic door catches--they can pull a twisted cabinet door straight and hold it closed securely--and they have innumerable uses as tool holding devices and in jigs & fixtures and throughout the shop. A single 1" magnet has more than 20-lb. pull; two of them face to face are virtually inseparable. Handle with care! All sizes are polished disks just under 1/8" thick. Pack of 10.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/213v0WsDGFL._SS400_.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STxX7c1xFyI/AAAAAAAACoM/4EWTk8msBTE/s400/IMG_0292.JPG

Here's a simple jig used to help guide straight cuts:

I had (2) 12 foot 1" x 6" boards, loosely put them on (4) scrap 2 x 4's, about 1" gap between both of the 1" x 6" boards.
Made it easy to line up the fabric end and make a reasonable straight cut.
I directly copied this from what I saw at JoAnns in store big cutting table.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ST4-lEWk8aI/AAAAAAAACoo/w1n699FHS88/s400/IMG_0326.JPG

Just a suggestion to others:
When you 45miter cut the edge is sharp, take a file/light sandpaper and just hit it slightly to lessen that sharp corner, my first border I did not do that and it poked thru just slightly....live and learn, did for the others and no problem. Black magic marker time for that oops.


Here is the RH border tryout, everything look ok so I'm making 3 more:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STyYtQBrrCI/AAAAAAAACoU/0YaSJW9pDt4/s400/IMG_0299.JPG

3 done so far, clamped to the frame.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ST4-kBPwOPI/AAAAAAAACok/Cj7rdNvypHY/s800/IMG_0324.JPG


Finishing the 4th tonight and then actual attachment to the frame.

Looking great - you are almost there!


Just a suggestion to others:
When you 45miter cut the edge is sharp, take a file/light sandpaper and just hit it slightly to lessen that sharp corner, my first border I did not do that and it poked thru just slightly....live and learn, did for the others and no problem. Black magic marker time for that oops.


+1

I ran into the "ever so slight" corner poking through. After using a Sharpie, nobody (but me) knows. I wish I would have sanded them down.

WOW!

Great work, that curved screen really came out nice. I have been thinking about making a CIH curved screen, have you tried watching 16X9 material on it yet? Does the curve distort 16X9 material?

WOW!

Great work, that curved screen really came out nice. I have been thinking about making a CIH curved screen, have you tried watching 16X9 material on it yet? Does the curve distort 16X9 material?

My a-lens is not on slides yet, fixed, so I'm watching 16x9 thru the a-lens.
Honestly, sometimes I "compress it" in my SonyVW60 so it comes out correct 16x9 ratio when expanded thru the lens, and at other times I don't compress it and it then stretches to fill the 2.35:1 screen (and people seem a little fatter as well :rolleyes: :rolleyes: ...Ha)

Yea, I'm giving up some resolution probably for 16x9 when I compress and watch thru the lens, but you know what it looks pretty darn good still.

When I do make a slide for the lens I would expect some reverse pincushion (barrel), because I'm doing the opposite now via curved screen w/o lens, I'll live with that, or just watch 16x9 thru the lens compressed and never slide the lens.

There have been various threads that discussed pros/cons of that in the main 2.35:1 CIH forum.

I have to agree with your assesment mtbdudex. I have been watching some of my favorite HD shows with my scope screen and lens in place, and the geometry of the image hasn't seemed bad at all. Also played some PS3 games on it as well and the games are great in scope. I'm getting ready to move my cable box into my equpment closet and once I do I'll be able to compress to 16:9 with my scaler which I will do just to see the difference, but honestly if I stretch 16:9 to scope it will save me from having to do masking. Well maybe I'll still do masking for 4:3 material which I will probably stretch to 16:9 anyhow. Even so not that much 4:3 that I'll be watching so for the few times I may just live with it.

BTW your curved screen project has turned out awesome. Good Job. I was thinking that for the frame you could have used a simalar material as what you used for the border (that's like PVC lumber that's used outdoors right?). It usually very flexible, perhaps a little to flexible and maybe why you didn't go with it for the frame?.

I have to agree with your assesment mtbdudex. I have been watching some of my favorite HD shows with my scope screen and lens in place, and the geometry of the image hasn't seemed bad at all. Also played some PS3 games on it as well and the games are great in scope. I'm getting ready to move my cable box into my equpment closet and once I do I'll be able to compress to 16:9 with my scaler which I will do just to see the difference, but honestly if I stretch 16:9 to scope it will save me from having to do masking. Well maybe I'll still do masking for 4:3 material which I will probably stretch to 16:9 anyhow. Even so not that much 4:3 that I'll be watching so for the few times I may just live with it.

You know what?
I totally forget to put additional magnets for masking when watching 4:3 material.....:(, the 5 magnets/side I put in are only for 16:9 masks material, therefore when watching 4:3 material most likely I'll just stretch it to 16:9 via the a-lens and watch it.
Don't watch much of that (4:3 material) , though my 6 year old likes iCarley or other kids shows. They are SD and look sorta rough at 4:3, but she does not complain.

BTW your curved screen project has turned out awesome. Good Job. I was thinking that for the frame you could have used a simalar material as what you used for the border (that's like PVC lumber that's used outdoors right?). It usually very flexible, perhaps a little to flexible and maybe why you didn't go with it for the frame?.

Exactly! I tried the PVC in the store and my concern was it was too flexible to hold a good curve, the 1/2" wood baseboard flat 4" mldg seemed "just right" balance between rigid to hold a good constant flex (which I have backed up with 3 supports) vs too noodlely like the PVC is. However, that noodely PVC is exactly what I wanted for the border, for that to not "fight" the alum frame and flatten the curve at all.

The frame, being wood, made it easy for me to use contact cement to attach the laminate.
(contact cement, that stuff stunk up the whole house, even with open windows/fan)

Wrapping the velvet onto the border got done as of 12:30 this morning (I'm red eyed tired), and with my wife's help just attached it to the screen this morning - after 5 hours of sleep.
(Thx to MississippiMan for his tutorial in the "other" DIY screen section).

Border wrap, and underside, not as pretty as MM's but it works for me.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUNGbCa7KhI/AAAAAAAACro/b_wgmStWLPw/s400/IMG_0363.JPG http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUNGbtDrPrI/AAAAAAAACrs/PXRIjEfBhv8/s400/IMG_0368.JPG


Lots of clamps and used some cut shims to not damage the felt.
Get everything lined up, measure, adjust, measure, adjust, measure, measure.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBiNPR4MI/AAAAAAAACr0/XN0-tlVZqgU/s800/IMG_0373.JPG

Put the screen back frame supports on these kids stools, I was able to shoot the drywall screws from behind. My wife patiently held this for about 30 minutes while I shoot the screws, look at the front to make sure nothing moved, corners stayed flat, etc.
I stapled a blue paper towel between the laminate and the center board so no potential for vibration, there is a design slight gap between them but wanted to be sure no vibration/slap issue at high spl's (that is not in this pict)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBjsCt2aI/AAAAAAAACr8/JxQmNgRVpzQ/s400/IMG_0376.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBi74bwrI/AAAAAAAACr4/HhChyriwMpg/s400/IMG_0375.JPG

"Ta da" as my kids say.
Real end dimensions from inside the border with velvet/final attachment:
119.625 width
50.875 height
129.994 diag
2.351 laminate screen calc ratio

So, I'm calling this 130" diag 2.35:1 screen.
Next is the manual masking, that's lower priority, maybe over xmas break, time to finish the rest of the room.

I'll summarize this project final costs, things done right/things done wrong/do different next time while still fresh in my brain in another post.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBkaRxYPI/AAAAAAAACsA/c1ntw7rwwcA/s400/IMG_0377.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBktt-pkI/AAAAAAAACsE/Kk3Pc76p6aI/s400/IMG_0379.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPRpYEzavI/AAAAAAAACsI/sqesTLH1Urw/s400/IMG_0388.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPRvBYHCrI/AAAAAAAACsM/QQgvhVLiFfc/s400/IMG_0390.JPG

Ok;
This one of Iron Man is overlay of one taken w/o flash for the nice pict and one with flash for the background (yea, I'll get carpeting soon, etc)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUiEP2npG7I/AAAAAAAADKI/MKYB4Ou3VZY/s800/IronMan1.jpg

Very nice and it looks really cool too !

Placeholder for Lessons Learned/Things Done Right/Things Done Wrong/What to do next time post.
[I'll be adding to this over various lunch hour(s)]


-Itemized BOM and budget summary (I'm swagging/memory at work, later will put exact #'s from receipts)

Below totals around $538 using 20mm x 20mm profile.
(not including tools bought, namely electric staple gun, I had the rest)

Alum Framing(Bosch Rexroth framing material )
(5) pieces of 1245mm long (49") 20mm x 20mm, With tax (6% in Mich), $173.42 pick-up at their Madison Heights location, includes their corner braces/hardware
Option: use profile 30mm x 30mm, With tax, $231.43 pick-up at their Madison Heights location. ($60 more)

Screen material:
$138 DW laminate 5' x 12' piece, special order

(1) Can contact cement & (1) brush:
$9 + $2

Wood frame material:
approx $55 for 35' base board molding from HomeDepot, it was 1/2" thick x 4" wide

Frame Corner braces
$10 (4) big braces for outer corner
$8 (4) smaller braces for inner corner
$5 (2) T-braces for center

4 x 4 Cedar post used for supporting the wood frame,
(cut to percise angles for curvature)
$12 for (1) 6' post

Misc Screws/Hardware used
$5 (1) box 1" drywall screws

Border velvet
$65 JoAnns 3.75 yards (leftover enough for 16:9 masking panels)

Border frame material
"Tuf Board" from Home Depot
$10 (1) 12' board, ripped in half for the big top/bottom pieces, and
$6 (1) 6' board, ripped in half, for the RH/LS sides

Magnets for masking
$15 (20) 3/8 dia Neodymium magnet

Masking material
$tbd (estimate $15 max)

-Alternate ways to build this, what I'd do if you wanted these variations:
[add to this later]

a) Use Acoustic Transparent screen instead of laminate
(Dennis E favors AT over laminate for the big screen due to acoustics, I went laminate for short term 2-4 year while kids young, I might modify this screen around 2012 into an AT screen, simple mod)

I've seen tutorials of people stretching AT material over wood frame, I'll post link here (add link)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUfmvFaP_9I/AAAAAAAADJs/B4Vujoh32Kg/s800/IMG_0128%20AT%20version.JPG

b) Make flat screen instead of curved screen.
That's easy, when you are at this stage just attach the wood frame.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf0my6QsI/AAAAAAAACjU/e4z-WBA-6mE/s400/IMG_0091.JPG

Why bother with this alum frame method instead of some of the build it on the wall method(s)?
Easy on/off, lightweight, easy to change screen materials for "tweakers".

-Calculations used so anyone could make the support(s) at correct angle at variable distance from center
[add to this later]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_segment

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2b/Circle_segment.jpg

Solved H for varying C gives the angle need to cut the support at distance from center
(I'll copy/paste my solved equations from excel worksheet, not sure if I can post that excel worksheet itself here)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxJ21brtI/AAAAAAAACkA/Yilg05D_R-A/s400/IMG_0117.JPG http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STSxKnRG6WI/AAAAAAAACkE/dXKcwEsKOt4/s400/IMG_0119.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/STOf4ByWcxI/AAAAAAAACjg/gbCHS0t9-BU/s400/IMG_0097.JPG

Just some of my old school equation solving via pencil/paper:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SjH-IC8ZCoI/AAAAAAAAFWk/EbuQy4PymzI/s400/IMG.jpg

how is the laminate with the kids? easy to keep clean?

how is the laminate with the kids? easy to keep clean?

I'll let you know with time, I went laminate based on advice in this thread where I asked How many of you had your screen damaged by kids? (This is my retail or DIY decision) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=998323)

Laminate is same as any counter top, so should be easy. For now, after I made the screen I just wiped it clean with a damp washcloth just like you'd clean your kitchen counter top.

Since it is basically hollow behind it, as long as nothing gets thrown at it (which I've read about in another post) should do fine.

I'm going to attempt a screen frame with this method as well. I just picked up my materials tonight and hopefully I'll finish something basic this weekend. Mine is not going to be curved, just a flat 2.37:1 AT screen. I'll be posting updates in my build thread as I make progress.

I'm going to attempt a screen frame with this method as well. I just picked up my materials tonight and hopefully I'll finish something basic this weekend. Mine is not going to be curved, just a flat 2.37:1 AT screen. I'll be posting updates in my build thread as I make progress.

Good luck and have fun in the process!

It's habit forming, the DIY thing, and your family/friends will be amazed what a DIY screen is capable of.

Dennis E likes AT screen more than my laminate screen from acoustics viewpoint, I assume you are placing speakers behind the AT screen? (I've not checked your build thread yet, that's next for me). Hopefully you've read all the hints on the moire(sp) issue with DIY AT screens and how to avoid that....

Good luck and have fun in the process!

It's habit forming, the DIY thing, and your family/friends will be amazed what a DIY screen is capable of.

Dennis E likes AT screen more than my laminate screen from acoustics viewpoint, I assume you are placing speakers behind the AT screen? (I've not checked your build thread yet, that's next for me). Hopefully you've read all the hints on the moire(sp) issue with DIY AT screens and how to avoid that....

The speakers are behind the screen. It is great to have the sound coming from the right part of the screen. I've watched several movies with the screen just clamped to the false wall. Now I'm at the point where I actually need a real screen frame. I assembled the frame last night. It was really easy and took about 20 or 30 minutes to do. Now I just need to get the fabric attached.

I've got a Panasonic AE3000 so I haven't had any problems with moire.

Amazing job on your screen!, I've been looking at few options my self and this seems the best. I'm already have AT material and this will work perfect for 130" a screen. I'm thinking of going for 30x30 with 2 vertical supports. Trying to find out how to get it in Canada, ON.

I ordered from that Bosch website and got it from the distributor near Toronto. If you place the order online and are in Toronto area, it will be filled by a company called advanced motion & controls in Mississauga. They used Purolator to deliver to my door for like $7. Interestingly, the materials from them actually came in cheaper than the quote from the Bosch website.

I ordered from that Bosch website and got it from the distributor near Toronto. If you place the order online and are in Toronto area, it will be filled by a company called advanced motion & controls in Mississauga. They used Purolator to deliver to my door for like $7. Interestingly, the materials from them actually came in cheaper than the quote from the Bosch website.

Did you place your order on Canadian site or US.?, did you have the cut if for you?

I went to the link in the beginning of the thread and set up an account. Then placed an order. Ended up getting an email from the Canadian distributor a couple of days later and they repriced it for me and I ordered from them. Basically, the Bosch website forwarded my order to the Canadian distributor and they handled it.

I had them cut it for me. I used the 30mm pieces with one support in the middle. I haven't actually set it up yet as before I knew about the Bosch site, I had built a screen with 2X4's which seems to be working all right for the moment with no support in the middle.

thanks, I'm going through Canadian site (or at least it seems that way), will see what happens.

Masking 101:
I finally made my masks for 16:9 viewing.

Found these foil back 3/4" foam boards at the Lansing Michigan Menards back in January, lightweight and much sturdier than just foam boards.
Cheap, around $10 for a 4' x 8', cut in half at the store to fit in my car.

Prior during screen build I placed the 3/8" dia magnets in the border.

Verify 16:9 projection image, use blue tape to show.
At this time I re-confirmed my screen to PJ alignment, using LH side wall as datum, 7' 2.5" center PJ to screen matched exactly, PJ/a-Lens re-tuned.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMghFifqI/AAAAAAAAEU4/Vm79TCK2S_M/s800/IMG_3108.JPG

Make template for exact transfer to foam foilboards:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMgdYbX-I/AAAAAAAAEU0/zz96f1o54MQ/s400/IMG_9490.JPG

Cut to exact size, templates help confirm exact location of all 5 magnets relative to the edges.
I cut the foam to be 1/4" inside the screen border edge on the 3 matching sides.
You can see the 5 magnets embedded in the foil/foam board just flush with surface:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMf1q74xI/AAAAAAAAEUw/vR445AFLJjE/s800/IMG_9491.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMebhYswI/AAAAAAAAEUs/q3VSWJsL5dE/s400/IMG_9492.JPG

I used foil HVAC tape to secure the magnets.
1st piece on the magnet/back side, 2nd piece I wraped back to front side to securley hold the 1st piece, those little magnets are really strong and I wanted them held in place.
Did not even try glue/silicone caulk.
I was worried glue/silicone would "melt" the foam board, not sure if it would or not but I had the foil tape on hand and it works.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULP3o2PYI/AAAAAAAAEUE/2pzFk3yXR6c/s400/IMG_9508.JPG

Dry trial before putting black velvet on them:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMc59L9EI/AAAAAAAAEUk/qdKSt9P_Lio/s400/IMG_9495.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScUMcN3sL4I/AAAAAAAAEUg/0rVPAV1H4R8/s400/IMG_9496.JPG

3" overhang for the black velvet all sides:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULPKTFjJI/AAAAAAAAEUA/eAklU1Ct0HU/s400/IMG_9510.JPG

Electric staple gun, used 1/2" depth staples, they grabbed/held in the foil backing perfectly (one of the reason I choose the foil foam panel)


Edge treatment, not prefect from backside but no binds from frontside :
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULOI7HUbI/AAAAAAAAET8/t6Pl6ZFEjpA/s400/IMG_9512.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULNmuGtSI/AAAAAAAAET4/hxToohbda3s/s400/IMG_9513.JPG

Result:
Lights on:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULM0MDmJI/AAAAAAAAET0/jWJe1l0zCIY/s800/IMG_9519_2.JPG

Turned lights off, took pict, then Photo Elements back into the orig pict for this view.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULLY2DviI/AAAAAAAAETs/m6PfL_Oo88c/s800/Mask_ESPN.jpg

Of course my 3 year old was watching Sponge Bob, so what the heck here is that for the family people here:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/ScULL03WUiI/AAAAAAAAETw/ASKd0mvpFl8/s800/Mask_SpongeBob.jpg

Storage:
They are 17" wide, by chance I have 18" below the center shelf, so when not used they will go under there!!
(I can't say I planned it that way, sometimes lady luck come your way)

One more sub-project done in the overall HT/Basement project.
March 21st, 2009.

Very, very cool. Looks good A+

Masking tweak, or, when using magnets make sure your velvet backside is flat as possible.:rolleyes:

The panels were holding "ok", but I felt those magnets should have more attraction.
I found out my velvet was bunched in the corners too much, holding the panel slightly away.

Spent 30-ish minutes re-doing 6 of 8 corners, I noticed the extra magnetic attraction when done.

Left side shows bunched up corner:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/Se96zE3lifI/AAAAAAAAEpY/m6_oeoI0SVY/s800/IMG_1929.JPG

Re-done area prior to stapling.
Remove staples, trim excess away, re-staple wrap sides, pull corner "strap" taunt but not too tight, staple.
Again, the foil helps so much holding the staples.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/Se96z5bHf-I/AAAAAAAAEpc/jreBZQ0yZKY/s800/IMG_1933.JPG

I posted the below in the DIY Screen Section (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17972605#post17972605), but will be documenting the build here:

I've seen quite a few good/slick DIY masking designs here.

For "my turn", I'm going to combine an automotive sunroof mechanism with an automotive rear shade mechanism
This on each RH/LH side will pull shut, they even have variable stop mech.
(extruded track + motor/dual cables)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/S1iUJnHDRXI/AAAAAAAAI3A/2kLsa9zOCLM/s640/Sunroof.JPG

while the shade mechanism (roller) will pull shut (with different dark/black fabric wrap on the roller, not sun shade fabric)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/S1iVBgQvzVI/AAAAAAAAI3k/Mj5tPR6iaVI/s640/RollerShade.JPG

I know people who work at suppliers for both components.
Another summer 2010 job on my to-do list.

I'll be watching!

I'll be watching!

This will be a spring/summer 2010 job, but I am doing research and discussion with my auto supplier contacts. Being in the auto biz for 25+ years you build up the info/contact network.
I'm also trying to get some "old obsolete" teardown parts to experiment/play with.

With the above in mind, I also will be tackling an issue that arose with my screen :(

My issue with current HT screen is I used pine baseboard to establish the curve, as shown in this build thread.

I’ve come to realize over seasonal humidity changes that is not desirable; the pine baseboard “grows” slightly (lengthwise) in high enough humidity. And, I have contact cement all around the perimeter of my laminate. Yet, the aluminum is rigid and very stable, So, recipe for some issue, something has gotta give.

I built my screen in the dry of late fall/early winter Nov-2008, last summer (July/August 2009) I noticed a slight buckle in my laminate screen at the center, very slight but there.

Here is a YouTube video showing the condition,
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/EPMnV3PBFik&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/EPMnV3PBFik&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>


You can sorta see the buckle here; the bluecloth is the mid support where the laminate material was forced to buckle upon humidity expansion of the perimeter pine boards. The buckle is about 1/2".
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SqWAWWBIkwI/AAAAAAAAHZg/YRzc-AOy4K4/s400/IMG_3869.jpg http://lh6.ggpht.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SqWAXcSH1gI/AAAAAAAAHZk/JtXG8TsVLQ8/s400/IMG_3870.jpg

It actually came back to “normal” condition around November, so 3-4 months high humidity during summer.

Honestly, because I knew it, I could see it, but there were no defining lines (like a cloth material sag/etc), so it was NOT visible from seating or even relatively close with PJ on. If you looked at severe angle/sideways you could see it (w/o PJ on). But, still I want to fix it with correct countermeasure.
Larry ("LarryCheif") and I discussed this last summer, his screen is not attached to the laminate via contact cement, rather his laminate can float via his attachment method, so as his wood would grow slightly with humidity, his won't buckle.


If I lived in a stable humidity climate, either dry like AZ or even humid like near ocean would not have noticed this, but most portions of USA have humidity fluctuations that this will be issue.

Being an Engineer, I'm sharing this with people and at same time trying for better, robust solution that is easier for us DIY builders at same time.

I'm arranging a meeting with our Bosch rep here at work, sent him the below note:
Randy;

I’m ready to make another HT viewing screen; does Bosch have the capability to curve the sq alum framing?

Specifically, I’d be interested in the 30 x 30 sq profile curved to a 39.6 foot radius.

(2) 11 foot pieces for top and bottom, all the other would be straight.

Plus, many people are intimidated by calculating the needed riser blocks to establish the curve by the method I developed.(Not hard, they just hate geometry/formulas…..)

If you, Bosch, could offer that service (curve sq alum framing) it would open up curved screen making to many more people, and be a more robust design than mine.


I informed him the exact above laminate buckle situation (actually this post is cut/paste from my email to him).


My possible solutions to this are (in priority ranking, assuming I keep DW laminate as my screen material):
a) Curved Alum Framing - re-design of my concept
b) Use non-wood for forming the curve that is stable to humidity changes. That would work, if one could find suitable/low cost/light weight.
c) Keep same basic concept, but used floating laminate mtg concept so stress/strain is not there and no buckle (like Larry did)
d) glue down @ the middle 3 supports.....this is last as not a real solution but rather possible a temp fix for existing design, may cause other stress/strain smaller buckle issues....

Other solution, use other material as screen material, some that needs stretching and can "take" a little movement:
e) BOC
f) etc

>>I'm also thinking with modifying my current curved frame/scree screen via
-removing the laminate (just router it at inside edge of pine baseboard)
-Use BOC + paint mixture, consult with MM on his idea of "best painted screen material" that could withstand some seasonal frame changes
to be continued......

Mike is right...my WA DW curved screen is "hanging in there" just perfectly (so far). It remains to be seen how it behaves in higher humidity, but my basement HT typically does not exceed 60%, so I'm not expecting any problems. Some of my construction pictures are posted in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1193432
I have a bit more complete updated image file I'd be happy to post to anyone who requests, to Larrychief@aol.com.

Larry

Update:
Randy called me Friday 1-28 morning, Bosch can curve the 30x30 sq framing. :D:D
They have done it before for other clients on smaller pieces in 2-3 foot length, not 11 foot like I asked.
They'd do it immediately after the extrusion pocess, while the alum is hot and formable.
What he desires is the tolerance I'd be willing to accept.
That's a real world Q for a manuf / process.

My nominal is 39.6' per AussieBob's eq sheet @ 16.25' throw.
I told him "I'd swag at plus/minus 1 foot as acceptable, but the change rate of radius for the curvature is important to be consistent." In other words, constant curve is more important than having the curve itself exact.
Also told him I would post that Q here, since you guys have other insight than I.

So, nothing is built perfect, and as I tried to reverse engineer AussieBob's spreadsheet via changing my throw distance to see plus/minus 1 foot radius curvature I have:

throw curvature
15.75 38.6
16.25 39.6
17.15 41.6

No, I'd NOT move my pj fwd/back if curve not exactly 39.6, rather I was curious how much different curve needed for diff throw distance.

Insight/advice from others appreciated.

Note:
I made clear to him I'm a DIY'er, not a business, so this would be a "one time" request for now but possible other DIY'ers might be interested since it would greatly simplify making curved screens.
We've not discussed additional process fee, sometimes places like to do basic R&D like this to further their competitiveness......if times are slow due to recession why not further your capability for un-met needs. Still, the 1st time you do something if it does not turn out there is scrap + time involved, re-set up for another run, etc.

Hi mtbdudex, just confirm with the fabricator that they can curve the full 11 feet and do not require an additional 2 feet at each end for the rollers.

And, freight costs, UPS won't carry over 8'.

Thx guys for feedback, I'm replying today to my contact.

Hi mtbdudex, just confirm with the fabricator that they can curve the full 11 feet and do not require an additional 2 feet at each end for the rollers.


The 30 x 30 profile comes in at least 20' sections, so hopefully not an issue.

And, freight costs, UPS won't carry over 8'.
Yea, I'm within 30 minutes drive of their warehouse, being in SE Michigan has some advantages.
I'll ask for other avs members their options for shipping within USA oversize.

Yea, I'm within 30 minutes drive of their warehouse, being in SE Michigan has some advantages.
I'll ask for other avs members their options for shipping within USA oversize.

I don't have exact costs (see response below from a year or two ago), but when I spoke with the rep I seem to remember him saying it would be around $150 to drop ship.


Thank you for the inquiry on the 80/20 products. No we do not stock much of any of the 80/20 products. A few nuts and bolts, and that’s about it. They have no minimum order, usually ships in 1 day, and most of it is cut to order.

If you’re looking for a whole 4 M stick, you can order it just like that.

25-2525-4M $33.60 each.

If you would like to put this on order I’d be more than happy to help you with that. I could even drop ship it to you from the factory. The 4M length it too long to go UPS. That’s one of the reasons that people would have it cut. They only charge 2-3 dollars per cut for most extrusions, which would more than offset the cost of shipping something this light via common carrier. Most of us cannot cut this for the 2-3 dollars that they charge. They cut it, de burr it, wash it, dry it, and wrap it.

Any update on this? I'm curious to find out how things went, and if they'd be willing to do it again in the future?

Thanks

-Sean

Any update on this? I'm curious to find out how things went, and if they'd be willing to do it again in the future?

Thanks

-Sean

Having Bosch themself doing the curve would be very expensive, over $500 for curving the 2 pieces (top/bottom). They would have done it right after the extrusion die in the actual production process. That is "best way", as you could ensure quality control from the manuf itself. Limited set-up, outside of normal process, special order, so relatively high costs.

I'm getting a 2nd quote from a local shop who will bend the pieces in their own method. I've not given up.

Having Bosch themself doing the curve would be very expensive, over $500 for curving the 2 pieces (top/bottom). They would have done it right after the extrusion die in the actual production process. That is "best way", as you could ensure quality control from the manuf itself. Limited set-up, outside of normal process, special order, so relatively high costs.

I'm getting a 2nd quote from a local shop who will bend the pieces in their own method. I've not given up.

[update]
I spoke with 2 shops here in SE Michigan past week.
Local shop would charge about $175-ish USD to curve both of the 30x30 profile pcs.
I'd have to get about 4' total longer for their holding process.

If later summer/fall I do decide to make screen Ver2.0 I'll go this route.
The extra cost would greatly simplify the curve making, and being 100% non-wood would guarantee environmental stability.

Catching up on this thread...

I spoke with 2 shops here in SE Michigan past week.
Local shop would charge about $175-ish USD to curve both of the 30x30 profile pcs.
I'd have to get about 4' total longer for their holding process.I imagine that any shop with a tube bending machine (roller type) could easily do this work. However, I'm not sure if that would trash the grooves in the aluminum.

Catching up on this thread...

I imagine that any shop with a tube bending machine (roller type) could easily do this work. However, I'm not sure if that would trash the grooves in the aluminum.

When I looked into it over here, they said they would fill the profile with sand to prevent compression, however could not guarantee the profile would not crush. Like was said, they also needed 600mm (2 feet) extra for the rollers or you end up with with flat spots at each end.

Well, 2 weeks ago the humidity level was still low, and the Formica screen was still flat/in plane of the curve.

However, moist air came and Friday 5/29 I noticed slight wave in the Formica screen.
So like last year the wood is expanding and due to my hybrid aluminum flat/stable base and baseboard wood curved surface, when the wood expands ever so slightly eventually I get a slight buckle in the very center screen surface.
Not noticeable at all from viewing position when watching content, and just barely noticeable from side angle with lights on no image.

...worthwhile to make a whole new screen....probably, since it bothers me.....nobody else sees it.....still bothers me

Got so many other non-HT project happening this is "on hold" until the fall.
Reviewing my Jan-2010 post on this and focusing on 2 choices:
Option A:
Modifying my current curved frame/screen via
-removing the laminate (just router it at inside edge of pine baseboard)
-Use cloth (BOC or ??) + paint mixture, consult with MM on his idea of "best painted screen material" for my Sony 60 PJ that could withstand some seasonal frame changes
>>My manual masks still work here

Option B:
Total new curved frame build:
Frame:
-using local shop to curve 30x30 sq tubing; 100% stable curved frame
Screen:
-cloth screen material + paint mixture
>>I'd also then work on my auto masks using the auto 12vdc sunroof motor/dual cable system

Option A vs Option B.....

It would be "neat" to do Option B with new screen material + paint mixture, would take my HT image to best possible level with my Sony 60 PJ. The icing on the cake would be automated masking.
Option B could be a work in progress Fall/Winter build, and I'd still have current screen to watch content with and eventually some comparison.

I could even sell that to someone else in future, and they could "re-skin" it under Option A process then, that is a win-win scenario.

Hi Mike,

I ran across a company that offers bending of t-slot track (maybe there are more), while too late for your finished screen frame, maybe useful for others. The company is Maytec Inc., US home office is in West Dundee, IL (see distributor map for your local dealers). Their home office is in Europe.

http://www.maytec.de/mainframe_e.htm

US web site: www.maytecinc.com


PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John :D

Hi Mike,

I ran across a company that offers bending of t-slot track (maybe there are more), while too late for your finished screen frame, maybe useful for others. The company is Maytec Inc., US home office is in West Dundee, IL (see distributor map for your local dealers). Their home office is in Europe.

http://www.maytec.de/mainframe_e.htm

US web site: www.maytecinc.com


PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John :D

Nice find, I wish I knew about this place before I tackled my screen, the home office is about an hour away from me. I still might look into it, for my future screen of course.

-Sean

Mike, last night I read this thread and I just wanted to say I'm impressed. I'd also like to say thanks for providing the source for the extruded aluminum as I may just be using them to build a crosshatch screen mounting system whereby I'd use to horizontal runs wall to wall (I'm in a narrow 12'x26' room) and one or more vertical runs to mount a non-DIY AT screen to. I am pretty sure I can fins a local provider to anodize the materials.

Again, nice job!

PS: For some reason the last few times I'v been to your thread Mike, I can only see up tp post #70 & no further?

John :D

hmmmm, on my computer there is a huge Google add on that post RH side, yet I can see past it. Some compatibility issue with your browser??

Mike, last night I read this thread and I just wanted to say I'm impressed. I'd also like to say thanks for providing the source for the extruded aluminum as I may just be using them to build a crosshatch screen mounting system whereby I'd use to horizontal runs wall to wall (I'm in a narrow 12'x26' room) and one or more vertical runs to mount a non-DIY AT screen to. I am pretty sure I can fins a local provider to anodize the materials.

Again, nice job!

Thx, I've learned so much in this forum, so hopefully by documenting my project(s) I've increased the overall knowledge base here.

This thread is so great! Thank you very much.

After looking into all sorts of building materials (steel/aluminium L-profiles, wood etc) for my 102'' screen frame I ordered the boschrexroth material yesterday. It's perfect for easy testing of several different spandex layer setups for my emachines V700 (aka acer H5360) projector.

I'm using two 20x20 profiles with a length of 2360mm and two 20x20 with a length of 1370mm. Those will be connected with 4 of the 2way cube connectors.
http://www.boschrexroth.com/business_units/brl/de/produkte/mge/a_images/104_Profil_blauwelt.jpg

I added 70mm on each side of the 102'' screen frame because I'm working on a DIY spandex blackscreen for daylight viewing and need those 70mm for 'integrated' masking purposes.

The cube connectors were ordered because i didn't want any sharp corners and there is no need for 45° angles with those.

I'll use several layers of different colored 4-way spandex, which will be stretched over the frame and connected in the rear of the frame with black plastic tubes.

In case I run into problems fixating the spandex in the corners I'll screw thin steel washers on the cubes rear and use superstrong neodym magnets (15mmx3mm, 2.3kg pull) to solve that problem.

The complete screen will only have a weight of about 4-5kg. :D

This thread was a real 'lifesaver'. I almost had a fit finding the right frame material and was about to go for a steel frame plus neodym magnets solution. :eek:

The boschrexroth material is much cheaper than any hardware store material and very light weight. Exactly what I was looking for. Without this thread I would never have found it...

Best regards!
Darker_plz

Update as of 12-15-08.
My work uses this structural extruded aluminum metal framing for many testing fixtures; I’ve always thought it would also make a good screen frame material.
Sorta like a tinker-toy approach, std fasteners can be used, should make it easy for others who want alternative to a wood frame for whatever their reason. You can cut this stuff with carbide saw blade, easy workability.
No welding.
Now, with my HT project is the time to actually do something.

After speaking to the test technicians and the guy who designs their test jigs, he pointed me to their website,http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/framing_shop/ .

You've might have seen this stuff in manufacturing workcells or test labs, etc:
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/images/mas_config_main.jpg

Neat stuff, easy to order, lots of choices - too many if just looking at the catalog.
http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Framing_Shop/Product/Default.aspx?category=10101

Our work uses the larger sizes for jigs and test fixtures, 40mmx40mm and larger, however I felt 20mmx20mm should suffice for a static loaded DIY 2.37:1 curved screen frame.
This was also based on a meeting I had with their sales rep, nice guy, he informed me many of the large commercial screens use their stuff.

Here is x-section image from website:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SCs5ilApgyI/AAAAAAAAB50/ilme873W-fs/s400/Bosch%20Rexroth%20Aluminum%20Framing%20Shop%2020x20.jpg


Any pricing information on the 20x20?

This thread is so great! Thank you very much.

........

The boschrexroth material is much cheaper than any hardware store material and very light weight. Exactly what I was looking for. Without this thread I would never have found it...

Best regards!
Darker_plz

The DIY spirit is about sharing, doing, and having others take what you've done to the next level.
Darker_plz, did you make a build thread for your project? If you have some picts/etc would be good for others to see your method.

Any pricing information on the 20x20?

Call them our use their website for pricing. That's how I got started, plus you'll have a contact then.

I didn't want to register. They don't just post pricing.

How long between when you ordered and it arriving?

I'll PM later you what pricing I got, that info is at home.

Thanks :)

The registration is pretty simple. And once you register and log on with your ID, the pricing is all shown. It's standard, non negotiable pricing. Straightforward. The std 20x20 is about 4.50 per meter IIRC.

That's about $1.50/foot. I don't think that's bad. Does it come in standard sizes or do you tell them the lengths?

Took some digging thru my folders, but I found them.
I took these screen shots when I was making the screen, so the prices are 1.5 years old.
(I thought they were posted here already, oh well....)
20 x 20 profile:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs312.ash2/59259_157589160920742_100000089764867_471070_5780133_n.jpg

30 x 30 profile:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs206.ash2/46891_157589114254080_100000089764867_471069_5858531_n.jpg


Like I said in this thread, if I had to do it over I'd go with the 30x30.

fwiw I did post the above pricing on 6/2/08 (over 2 years ago) in this build thread, page 1 post #21 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14000529#post14000529 , titled "Adding budget info", seemed appropriate thread post to document facts.

Guess tmi in this build thread?
I tried to document it very clearly so others could....do their DIY thing.
Good luck others; document your steps/actions, take pictures, and post your build experiences.

mtbdudex - thanks for letting us all know about this option. i read your threads around two years ago and ordered some 30x30 tubing cut to size from them then and it was a great solution. My screen is super light, perfectly flat and perfectly square with no bowing or warping. Before I read your threads, I was using 2x4's which was heavy and had many problems. The extruded aluminum tubing is great and incredibly easy to use. Especially nice is that it is cut to great precision and bolts together in minutes.

and I got the idea from walking around work and seeing these sq tubing being used for test fixtures, it's original and main intent. 10' plus lengths in the supply room that barely flexed got my mind thinking.....We've used incredible huge profiles for super ridgid fmvss test fixtures, this stuff can be ordered in whatever your business need is.

Hopefully others can build on what I/others have did and improve and share.

[update]
I spoke with 2 shops here in SE Michigan past week.
Local shop would charge about $175-ish USD to curve both of the 30x30 profile pcs.
I'd have to get about 4' total longer for their holding process.

If later summer/fall I do decide to make screen Ver2.0 I'll go this route.
The extra cost would greatly simplify the curve making, and being 100% non-wood would guarantee environmental stability.

I'm just about to start building a curved CIH screen for my DIY HT build. I really want to use curved aluminum extrusions and found this thread.

So far I haven't had much luck. I tried contacting a local distributor for the MayTec system. Apparently there is no way for them to produce curved profile in the US. My distributor tried to contact Germany to get an estimate and never got a response(!). I've also managed to find companies that can bend extrusions but they require a 100Kg or 1000 part minimum. I did try a local metalwork shop and their response of "sure, we can use our pipe bender" didn't inspire confidence since there is more to aluminum bending than that.

I also contacted Bosch and 80/20 and neither can help (or even recommend such a service).

mtbdudex, did the guys you found understand how to bend the extrusion without wrinkling or cracking? A cost of $200 for the two pieces is reasonable to me but I need to ensure the t-slots and profile is kept intact.

Any pointers would be appreciated (I'm in California BTW).

Cheers.

Moggie;
I've NOT done anything with this, if/when I do I'd go to their shop and see their bend process prior to ordering my tubing for confidence.
Of course I'd take pictures to share with others while the shop does it's thing, to show results, good or bad.

One of my concerns was/is making sure the tube stays "square" total lengthwise as you look down it after bending, not sure if there was residue stress in the tube and if it would twist just slightly or what while going thru the bending.

Thanks Mike. I'll do the same with any progress I make. The accuracy of the bend is my concern too, the extrusion would likely need to be heat treated prior to bending to ensure a quality process.

If no idea of their schedule (or pricing) but MayTec are apparently intending to offer the bending service in the US as some point. I guess there just isn't much demand for this.

Thanks Mike. I'll do the same with any progress I make. The accuracy of the bend is my concern too, the extrusion would likely need to be heat treated prior to bending to ensure a quality process.

If no idea of their schedule (or pricing) but MayTec are apparently intending to offer the bending service in the US as some point. I guess there just isn't much demand for this.

If you are having trouble finding local shop to curve the alum extrusion, the other thing you can do, is make hybrid curved frame same as I did, flat extrusions and simple wood cut to length for support a curved thin wood baseboard mldg.
However, use Larrychief method of floating the DW laminate instead of fixing it to the frame, then what little the hybrid frame moves seasonally won't warp the laminate
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17532402#post17532402

If you are having trouble finding local shop to curve the alum extrusion, the other thing you can do, is make hybrid curved frame same as I did, flat extrusions and simple wood cut to length for support a curved thin wood baseboard mldg.
However, use Larrychief method of floating the DW laminate instead of fixing it to the frame, then what little the hybrid frame moves seasonally won't warp the laminate
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17532402#post17532402

Thanks. Yes I've read your build in detail and that approach is definitely a possibility. I'm planning a AT (cloth) screen though with automated masking. The screen is definitely going to be one of the more challenging parts of my build.

Cheers.

Saw this at Home Depot, as lesson learned this curved screen method I used could work using this instead of the pine board for the curve backing.
Would need to test contact cement to laminate adhesion on a piece, but assuming that worked this would easily solve the small expansion/contraction by humidity.
For future other builders to consider.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs253.snc6/180128_193940263952298_100000089764867_699848_2681574_n.jpg

I saw in the laminate thread a member painted the back of his laminate and stated that cured his humidity expansion/warping issue.
Still tbd on doing that for mine....I've got nothing to lose by trying it though....

[edit]
I will be applying water based dead flat varnish, should 100% seal it from moisture.
http://www.modernmastersinc.com/images/products/mm-dp-deadflat.jpg
Varnishes
These premium quality, water base, non-yellowing varnishes have been formulated to have the optimum level of clarity with the least amount of sheen (Dead Flat) or low sheen (Satin). Use as a protective finish coat over decorative paint finishes to add durability and washability, and to remove undesirable variations in sheen level.

If I don't do it this weekend, then after Superbowl weekend I'll apply 2 coats to the backside.
Timely to do this, because I'm finally doing the HT acoustics, and its been on my docket for 2 years now to stuff the backside with Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board, 2 inch thick, possible 4-6" on the ends (very similar acoustic properties as OC 705 w/o itchies)
(this is 2+ year old pict)
http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/SUPBi74bwrI/AAAAAAAAKb8/YlMMbCf-CL8/s400/IMG_0375.JPG

Update: Between Saturday and Sunday I just got done putting (4) coats of varnish on the back of the screen AND the pine boards I used for the curve, all 3 exposed sides of the pine boards coated.
I'm actually cautiously optimistic that this will keep the humidity induced warpage away. If you seal out the moisture, the boards/and or the laminate should not warp.
frank1940 - thx.
Until Late June/Early July won't know, I'll report back then.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TUYu-XdwcwI/AAAAAAAAMAs/chgNmVSY-VQ/s400/IMG_6449.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TUYu-D3KqaI/AAAAAAAAMAo/sJb-uwOG9o4/s400/IMG_6459.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TUYu-D3KqaI/AAAAAAAAMAo/sJb-uwOG9o4/s400/IMG_6459.jpg

Come Wed I'll be getting (6) pcs of 2' x 4' Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board, 2 inch thick. That is going in back of the screen, attached to the frame, to absorb low freq. Then, the screen is going back on the wall.

This past weekend continuing with improving the HT acoustics, I put (6) sheets of 2" thick 2' x 4' Roxul Rockboard on my screen to make is a "dead zone" instead of a resonance/reflection zone.
http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Roxul-Rockboard-60-Case-of-6--RB60.html
This is a case of 6 pieces of 24 x 48 x 2 inch Rockboard 60 manufactured by Roxul. It is rigid mineral wool board similar to Owens Corning 705 at a density of 6 pounds per cubic foot.
I used Roxul Rockboard instead of OC705 because I am NOT going to cover it, so did not want itchy stuff.

This was on my "to do" list for almost 2 years.....finally did it this weekend.

This is on back of my DIY screen, there is a controlled 3/4" gap to the screen via the metal plates I added for supporting, secured the panels by suspended ceiling 14ga wire.
#1
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDMlQb3JEI/AAAAAAAAMFw/LncrBIXSX0c/s400/_MG_4199.jpg

Final product done and secured, the outside portion has (2) 2" thick 2 ' x 4'pieces fitting, the inside 1 due to screen curve allows more on outside.
#2
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDMlo0FmGI/AAAAAAAAMF0/MlVKzxbf0Y0/s400/_MG_4511.jpg

It's also with about a 3" air gap to the wall now.
#3
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDX0hXBLHI/AAAAAAAAMGM/Ahg5TRaPpO0/s400/_MG_4557.jpg

#4
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDX07rjSMI/AAAAAAAAMGQ/nDYi2ah2Oe0/s400/_MG_4563.jpg

screen hung, btw It's also 50 lbs heavier.....my wife complained I'm "slaving her" with all this heavy lifting.:
#5
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDX1LfIoVI/AAAAAAAAMGU/GSYG1BJ0U5I/s400/_MG_4569.jpg
(that's my acoustic cloud I'm making just today, i was not there when I did the Audyessy re-run)

I immediately could tell improved bass, I've not taken REW plots yet, but I did re-run my Audyessy and it shows how its EQ is applied, look at the before/after for the center channel!
Yes, I was very careful about having my mic in repeatable positions as well for before/after check..
Before:
#6
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TUlz_iAS18I/AAAAAAAAMC0/QbTkzm_w9l8/s400/_MG_4083%20After%20side%20wall.jpg

After:
#7
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_FqTNmgNQHz8/TVDMmEKnjQI/AAAAAAAAMF8/SiQ09q916Os/s400/_MG_4531.jpg

Just adding my experience here.

Go with the 30 x 30 profile, not the 20 x 20 like I did.
Sure, it costs a few $ more, however when I put the extra weight onto the whole frame for the acoustic treatment I did notice the frame itself visibilly flexed when lied down - the screen flattened close to "straight", hanging there is no flex in the horizontal plane, its level the whole 10 feet width.
(look at pict#2 above, you can visually see it)
Nothing got damaged, but carrying additional 50lbs was not part of my design parameter when I started this.
I do recommend EVERYONE who builds a curved screen to do acoustic treatment behind it, either on wall or on screen.
You'd be suprised how much bass improvement you'll have.

Ok - score one for H20 molecules getting into wood when I had thought the back was so coated per what I did Jan/Feb this year..

I notice earlier this week "humidity induced warpage" has returned. :(

I've done all I could do, so my next thing for permanant solution will be to router out the lamiante and get some AT screen material and put that on.
It won't bow/buckle when the very slight warpage happens.

I'm a perfectionist, you don't notice it at all while viewing...but the AT material will fix that, plus as a bonus I'll have better acoustics in the HT also via less sound reflections.

For now I have no plans to get speakers for mounting behind the screen, I don't have enough room for that.

Bummer thing is this weekend I'm hosting a HEMI meet, and now this crops up just days before......
Spring HEMI Meet - Saturday May 14th
(http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1322007)

Ok - score one for H20 molecules getting into wood when I had thought the back was so coated per what I did Jan/Feb this year..

I notice earlier this week "humidity induced warpage" has returned. :(

I've done all I could do, so my next thing for permanant solution will be to router out the lamiante and get some AT screen material and put that on.
It won't bow/buckle when the very slight warpage happens.

I'm a perfectionist, you don't notice it at all while viewing...but the AT material will fix that, plus as a bonus I'll have better acoustics in the HT also via less reflections.

For now I have no plans to get speakers for mounting behind the screen, I don't have enough room for that.

Bummer thing is this weekend I'm hosting a HEMI meet, and now this crops up just days before......
Spring HEMI Meet - Saturday May 14th
(http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1322007)

This is horrible news Mike. I think we should consider canceling the meet so that we don't traumatize the other memebers.:eek:

Sorry, I couldn't resist. My guess is that it will look fine to all of us and we wouldn't even know about it if you didn't tell us.

This is horrible news Mike. I think we should consider canceling the meet so that we don't traumatize the other memebers.:eek:

Sorry, I couldn't resist. My guess is that it will look fine to all of us and we wouldn't even know about it if you didn't tell us.

Thx Nick - We all take pride in trying to do our best, making something "correct".
In this case quickly sharing this info with others in the avs community hopefully will help them not repeat same issue.
Larry made laminate curved screen with floating laminate method instead of fixed based on my feedback.
He visited my HT before making his screen, therefore I had his direct contact info, and got him 2 weeks before he made his screen, so he revised the method with good countermeasure.

Imagine this: if you took a slightly over 4 feet tall x 10 feet wide piece of posterboard and pushed it "in" either height wise or width wise you can imagine just slight movement and it will buckle outta plane, that's what happens here....add that to the DFEMA for laminate builds, floatable mounting to absorb slight movement of the base frame.

I know we'll still have a good HT meet Saturday...rain or shine.....slight screen buckle non-withstanding....

Just to report that my DW laminate curved screen is still in perfect condition, even after having my HT flooded on Jan 24 that required Servpro remediation...lots of blowers and suckers etc, and eventually having all the carpet replaced. I'm guessing I've had significant variations in humidity that have apparently had no effect on warpage of the laminate material.

Larry

Ok - score one for H20 molecules getting into wood when I had thought the back was so coated per what I did Jan/Feb this year..

I notice earlier this week "humidity induced warpage" has returned. :(

I've done all I could do, so my next thing for permanant solution will be to router out the lamiante and get some AT screen material and put that on.
It won't bow/buckle when the very slight warpage happens.

I'm a perfectionist, you don't notice it at all while viewing...but the AT material will fix that, plus as a bonus I'll have better acoustics in the HT also via less sound reflections.

For now I have no plans to get speakers for mounting behind the screen, I don't have enough room for that.

Bummer thing is this weekend I'm hosting a HEMI meet, and now this crops up just days before......
Spring HEMI Meet - Saturday May 14th
(http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1322007)

Mike,

Just read this thread. Great work. I can assure you that the screen imperfections were not noticeable at the meet.

Instead of varnish to seal the wood, a better idea is epoxy. It is used to make boats and canoes. It also makes varnish last longer outside. On my oak front door, I used varnish over epoxy. Take a look at this West Systems article:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

A key quote from the article: "sealing wood with an epoxy moisture barrier dramatically lessens its stretching and shrinking."

I don't know if you could brush on epoxy right over the varnish that you have on there now, but my guess is that it would work. West Systems recommends 3 coats of epoxy for moisture sealing.

Greg

Mike,

Just read this thread. Great work. I can assure you that the screen imperfections were not noticeable at the meet.

Instead of varnish to seal the wood, a better idea is epoxy. It is used to make boats and canoes. It also makes varnish last longer outside. On my oak front door, I used varnish over epoxy. Take a look at this West Systems article:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/varnish-over-epoxy/

A key quote from the article: "sealing wood with an epoxy moisture barrier dramatically lessens its stretching and shrinking."

I don't know if you could brush on epoxy right over the varnish that you have on there now, but my guess is that it would work. West Systems recommends 3 coats of epoxy for moisture sealing.

Greg

Hey Greg, wish I had that info back in January, anyway I've concieded the warpage issue as Lesson Learned.

I'm going to the DIY screen section and pick experts brains there on cloth based + painted special mix solution.
(posted here Fixing my 130" DIY curved screen: going from DW Laminate to some painted/cloth screen (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20509447#post20509447)
I'll salvage this metal/wood curved frame via router the lamiante away, :( .
(don't laugh, I grew attached to the screen, yea its a inamiate object but still to this day I'm amazed at the picture)

I was thinking AT cloth (seymour/etc) screen, but with my Sony VW60 PJ not being a light cannon I don't want any additional light loss that an AT screen gives.
This will be my 4-5 year solution, I'm waiting for 3D LED PJ's to come to market at acceptable price points (under $5k).

Then I'll do 30x30 bosch curved alum + AT screen.
(and make a new build thread)