I own a Hitachi Ultravision 61" 61SWX10B CRT Rear Projection TV. I bought it back in 2001 for aorund 4k. The sound board went out after a couple years but I didn't care cause i use a seperate surroundsound system. Now, all of a sudden, the picture went to crap. There is a huge amount of ghosting as well as a hourglass type thing going on. From researching here, it looks like it is the IC Convergence board. Don't really know what that is but it sounds like that is the problem. From past expriences it sounds like it will run me about 400 to have someone replace it.

My question is this, what other problems are likely to occur in the coming years if I replace these boards. I have never had anything else on the TV replaced so I just dont want to spend the money for the convergence repair and then have to end up replacing some of the CRT tubes/lamps shortyly.. SHoukd I just bute the bullet on a new LED DLP? How does the picture compare?

Thanks for any help.

I'd replace it with a front projection CRT projector.....
but that's just me.

Not sure about the picture (I'm guessing the tradeoff will be the usual - better colors / black level on the CRT, better sharpness on the DLP) but if you can do a bit of soldering you can fix the convergence problem yourself. I fixed a Tosh RPCRT that way with good results. Cost me 25 bucks for the chips.

I own a Hitachi Ultravision 61" 61SWX10B CRT Rear Projection TV. I bought it back in 2001 for aorund 4k. The sound board went out after a couple years but I didn't care cause i use a seperate surroundsound system. Now, all of a sudden, the picture went to crap. There is a huge amount of ghosting as well as a hourglass type thing going on. From researching here, it looks like it is the IC Convergence board. Don't really know what that is but it sounds like that is the problem. From past expriences it sounds like it will run me about 400 to have someone replace it.

I had the convergence go out on my Mitsubishi WS-65857 a few years ago and it was a cold solder connection that caused the problem. It didnt need a new board or chips, just a resoldering onto the trace. It was under warranty so I didnt have to pay anything. I was told by the tech they would have charged me $100 to fix it if it wasnt under warranty (which was their consultation cost appliable to the repair at the time). So to make a long story short, it may be cheaper than replacing the board to get it to work again.

Carl