Just need to know one thing...

Are all the inputs for the DVDR3576H/37 active?

As in, can I hook up the S-video input, cable input, etc, etc, and pic and choose what input I record.... or can I only hook up one "general" input to record from?

Thanks... I'm wrist deep in hooking this up and I can't seem to locate this information and it's a bit important as to how I'll be hooking this up. :)

Click on my signature, then Subject #9.

Should have pointed out: E1 inputs on back can be Composite or S-Video, not both, cuz you have to select which one in the Video > Video Input menu. Default is Composite (Y/W/R) so if using S-Video, change menu selection to S-Video In.

Thanks again Wajo!... do you work for Philips? lol.

Thanks again Wajo!... do you work for Philips? lol.
Nope, just believe in the product! :D

Another question... (honest, I've tried looking and I think I know the answer, but just want confirmation)


Can I do anything beyond 480P over component? Is there a way to enable 1080p over component... or at least 1080i? ((and, if this can be done... how do I do it... can't seem to figure it out))


If HDMI is the only way... why is that? Seems a little "odd" to me that they'd lock down the component side of things.

Upconvert only over HDMI. The reason for not much over Component (some can) is *probably* cuz that connection has NO COPY CONTROL, like HDMI does... HDCP and both sender and receiver have to comply with HDCP controls. In fact, that's prob. one reason HDMI was invented in the first place, then lock down Component upconvert in the device (some players can be hacked). Hollywood prestigiditation! :D

As aways... thank you!

Is there a hack available for the this newer unit?

It's not a big deal... I think I've already figued out how to add the HDMI to my setup... but setups can change.

I searched high and low for a hack for several DVDRs (mine and other peoples') and they just don't seem to exist for DVDRs like they do for players (videohelp.com has lots for players)... at least for North American models.

I tried a region-free code for a Philips player on my 3575 I use for most tests (poor soul!) and caused my TV to show a thin 1" line for a pic. Normal pic came back after awhile. Scared me to death. Found out later it might be the TV itself... whew!

I recently tested the SKIP-#-#-# codes cuz they might be helpful someday to someone, but I started with a sweat band on forehead, water for dry mouth, etc. :)

lol.... good to know. I'm sure if you ever find one that works you'll let the board know.

I'll just pass through the HDMI then... the problem is (I'm sure it's DRM of some kind) my new 2008 TV doesn't pass 5.1 audio from HDMI... only 2 channel. So I still have to plug in my HDD/DVDR's audio into my AVR directly to get 5.1.... sucks.

...I hope someone hacks my TVs firmware to allow 5.1 audio to be passed along so I can hookup more HDMI devices. As far as I'm concerned, there's no point of having three HDMI inputs on the set if it won't pass 5.1 out the optical out. grrrrr.

Does your TV use HDMI v1.3 and is your cable v1.3?

Here's what this Wikipedia entry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Digital_Plus) says about Dolby over HDMI:

"As of 2007, HDMI 1.3 is the only means to transport a raw DD+ bitstream between two pieces of consumer equipment. The older and more widespread TOSLINK and S/PDIF-interfaces can only be used if the bitstream is transcoded. See the section below on downmixing."

P.S. Another question: Is the 3575/76 v1.3 compliant... nope, just looked. Manual says: HDMI AUdio: 2 channel linear PCM 32, 44.1 and 48kHz. Both sender and receiver (TV) have to be 1.3 compliant.

Everything is HDMI 1.3... it's the way they made the TV... per the manual... the TV will only output 2 channel via the optical out when using HDMI. But it will output 5.1 if the signal is coming from Ant/Cab/Sat. :mad:

I'm not sure on the other inputs as the TV's manual doesn't say anything about them. ...but I am able to pass a Nintendo Wii's Dolby Pro Logic II signal out the optical to my AVR when hooked up via component.


I just think it's very lame to disable 5.1 audio output when using an HDMI port... as I said, seems very pointless to allow HDMI, but then cripple the audio that output to an AVR. :confused:

Does your TV use HDMI v1.3 and is your cable v1.3?

Here's what this Wikipedia entry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolby_Digital_Plus) says about Dolby over HDMI:

"As of 2007, HDMI 1.3 is the only means to transport a raw DD+ bitstream between two pieces of consumer equipment. The older and more widespread TOSLINK and S/PDIF-interfaces can only be used if the bitstream is transcoded. See the section below on downmixing."

P.S. Another question: Is the 3575/76 v1.3 compliant... nope, just looked. Manual says: HDMI AUdio: 2 channel linear PCM 32, 44.1 and 48kHz. Both sender and receiver (TV) have to be 1.3 compliant.Can you clarify this please? Do you mean that if you connect a 3575/6 to an AV receiver via HDMI, that the 3576 will or will not transport the 5.1 audio signal from a commercial DVD to the AVR? I ask because it is a common home-theater configuration to route HDMI devices through the AVR which outputs to the display panel. The AVR acts as a component switcher and gets the digital audio for output to the surround speakers.

Can you clarify this please? Do you mean that if you connect a 3575/6 to an AV receiver via HDMI, that the 3576 will or will not transport the 5.1 audio signal from a commercial DVD to the AVR? I ask because it is a common home-theater configuration to route HDMI devices through the AVR which outputs to the display panel. The AVR acts as a component switcher and gets the digital audio for output to the surround speakers.
Ahhhh.. I see where I strayed above. The Wiki entry is about the "new" DD+, not our old DD5.1 and others we're all familiar with... and now I see it's for HDTV and Bluray, etc. :o

I use digital coax to my AVR and it works just fine. My AVR doesn't have HDMI connections, but that should also work fine for DD5.1 and others. Even if a source uses DD+, the DD+ is easily "downmixed" thru our DVDRs and AVRs as described in that article. Apparently, it's just for a "pure DD+" experience that everything has to be HDMI 1.3 compatible.

All this is unnecessary... sorry... I'll go to my corner now! :)

In regards to Kelson's question - I believe the answer is...no, the 3575/6 will not transmit DD5.1 over the hdmi connection.

Page 121 of the manual (Specifications page) at the bottom for hdmi output states:
"Audio: 2 channel linear PCM 32, 44.1 and 48 kHz)".

I have a Sony AVR with my KD-32XBR970 tv using the digital coax input and a Panny E80 using the digital optical input. The AVR only has one of each. I expected hooking the 3575 up via hdmi to the tv would enable a "third" digital input via the tv to the AVR. Nope - only 2 channel audio. I looked in my XBR970 manual and it too states only 2-channel audio over hdmi.

In regards to Kelson's question - I believe the answer is...no, the 3575/6 will not transmit DD5.1 over the hdmi connection.

Page 121 of the manual (Specifications page) at the bottom for hdmi output states:
"Audio: 2 channel linear PCM 32, 44.1 and 48 kHz)".

I have a Sony AVR with my KD-32XBR970 tv using the digital coax input and a Panny E80 using the digital optical input. The AVR only has one of each. I expected hooking the 3575 up via hdmi to the tv would enable a "third" digital input via the tv to the AVR. Nope - only 2 channel audio. I looked in my XBR970 manual and it too states only 2-channel audio over hdmi.
I wish I had an AVR with HDMI inputs and outputs cuz this isn't definitive since you're sending the HDMI directly to a TV that doesn't have a Dolby decoder on the HDMI, like an AVR does (I guess).

The spec in the 3575/76 manual does show 2-channel linear PCM for HDMI, but you'll notice the specs also don't mention anything about Dolby in its two Digital Audio Output lines (RCA coax and Optical) which can carry Dolby thru to a receiver or TV. The 3575/76's audio compression for recording is Dolby Digital.

Per Wiki, one of the Dolby formats is "2-channel stereo (Left + Right), optionally carrying matrixed Dolby Surround." IOW, there are many Dolby configs, but I would assume you have to have a receiving unit that can decode it for the speaker system.

It should be obvious that I'm far from an expert on audio, but I hope someone who has an AVR with HDMI input and output can put this to a definitive test, with a Dolby source/DVD of course.

There is no technical reason why the 3575/76 should not be able to send a 5.1 audio signal over an HDMI connection. If it is in fact the case then it was a decision made by Philips. Not a very good one in my opinion.

The good news is that this should be able to be "fixed" with a firmware update. I mention this because one of the earlier HDMI Philips DVD players - the 5960 - also would not output 5.1 over HDMI. This created a brew haha amongst 5960 owners and Philips "fixed" this with a subsequent firmware update that enabled 5.1 over HDMI in the 5960's.

If it is important enough to the 3575/76 users then an email campaign to Philips might motivate Philips to enable 5.1 over HDMI.

The 3575/76 is a DVD player as well as a DVD recorder. Not allowing 5.1 over HDMI seems crazy to me. A DVD player that cannot do 5.1 over HDMI is not a good thing. And very very rare.

Small update here. Check the audio settings on the 3575/76.

For example I just checked the audio settings on the newest Polaroid DVD recorder. It has an HDMI output. It does play DVDs via HDMI with 5.1 output. But the SPDIF audio setting will toggle 5.1 or 2 channel stereo via HDMI.

For example. SPDIF (the digital audio setting on the Polaroid) when set to "Raw" enables 5.1 via HDMI. When this setting is set to " LPCM" the audio out via HDMI is 2 channel stereo.

I'm not sure how this works with the Philips but if there is a setting for SPDIF (or digital audio) try setting it to "Raw" or or something similar and it may enable 5.1 over HDMI (try anything but LPCM).

.... wow, what happened to my thread, lol.


I'm not sure if I started something here or not but I was talking about my TV.


If I plug an HDMI device into my TV's HDMI input... the TV will only pass 2 channel audio out of the TV's optical out.

So....


DVD Player---------TV HDMI Input--------------------TV Optical Out
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HDMI Video---->Video to TV display
HDMI Audio---->5.1 to TV (stereo) speakers----->Only 2 Channel passed to Optical Out

My TV does not have an HDMI out... only an Optical Audio Out.

So if I use the TV's HDMI inputs... I can NOT get anything more than 2 channel audio to pass out of my TV's optical out... which is plugged into my AVR. In order for me to get digital signals... I have to connect the digital out of my player directly to my AVR... even if I'm using HDMI because the TV will block the audio if I connect to the TV.

My point being... why even bother giving me HDMI inputs on a TV that won't pass digial audio signals out of the only digital output when the chances are I'm going to be using 5.1 audio when using HDMI. As in, what type of person is using HDMI and only listening in stereo???????

If it's for protection of the audio... I'm cool with that... but then give me a protected HDMI OUT that passed full digital audio instead of the non-protected optical out! grrrrr.



Basically... I'm irritated at this limitation as my AVR is pretty much maxed... I have 2 digital coax inputs (used)... I have 2 digital optical inputs (used... one by the TV)... I have two HDMI inputs (used). I was hoping to use my TV's 2 remaining HDMI inputs (one is used by the AVR) to attach up to 2 more HDMI devices and then pass the HDMI audio out the TVs optical out to the AVR for processing... but even though I can get full HDMI video to the TV, the TV won't pass the HDMI audio in anything better than 2 channel to my AVR.

.... wow, what happened to my thread, lol..............




I was responding to RangerDave and his comment on how audio is handled by the 3575/76.

As far as HDTVs are concerned it looks like it is a mixed bag. My HDTV does pass 5.1 audio via its audio output. And it is quite handy when using an AVR. In my case my HDTV has 2 HDMI inputs but I have 7 HDMI devices routed to the HDTV via HDMI. One HDMI port is serviced by a 5 port HDMI switch. The second HDMI input is serviced by a 2 port HDMI switch.

This makes things much easier because a single digital audio cable to the AVR is all that is required to get 5.1 to the receiver.

That being said advanced audio codecs like TrueHD or DTS-MA do require a direct connection to the AVR in my case. These newer codecs are not recognized by my HDTV and as a result no sound is passed. Not the end of the world because I have a hard time telling the difference but as a result I do have a few paths for audio going directly to the AVR. If I want to engage a newer audio codec then the path directly to the receiver is used. If I choose DD 5.1 or DTS then going through the HDTV works fine

I would check out the HDTV forum on this site to see if there is a firmware update for your television. I don't believe there is a technical reason why the 5.1 audio is not being passed. Although the design of these things can get a bit screwed up. For example in my case as mentioned my HDTV will pass 5.1 audio until I hook up a cable card. With a cable card installed the HDTV will not pass 5.1 audio. Go figure. Not being a cable card user it doesn't matter but it is annoying for those that are.

Basically... I'm irritated at this limitation as my AVR is pretty much maxed... Not an uncommon position. I've been looking at a new Yamaha AVR and am looking at the model with far more inputs than I currently need just because I can see a future like yours if I don't. Since your AVR has HDMI inputs, consider an HDMI switch and if that will help. Oppo makes a nice 3-way one that is 1.3 compliant (supports deep color).

Also check out Monoprice. They are offering a 4x1 HDMI switch which is 1.3b certified for around $40. Reviews from users are very good.

But unfortunately if the reports concerning the 3575/76 are true then 5.1 via HDMI is a no go. The 3575/76 would require a direct digital audio connection to the receiver. The HDMI switch would probably free up a toslink port on the receiver though.

Also to add toslink port options to a receiver there are toslink manual switches available on the cheap. Less than $15 delivered for example. I think there is a large seller on ebay right now selling a 3 way toslink switch including 4 6ft optical cables for something like $22 delivered. Not the most elegant approach but it does add port options to a receiver if needed.

Also check out Monoprice. They are offering a 4x1 HDMI switch which is 1.3b certified for around $40. Reviews from users are very good.

I have that switcher and have nothing but good things to say about it. It even passes my Panasonic Viera signal to ports other than the one selected. Eg. I have 2 Panny DVDRs hooked up to the switcher. When I turn my TV off it turns off BOTH DVDRs, even if neither were selected:cool: Don't ask me how this works but it sure works nice.

Strange you guys talked about the 4x1 HDMI switcher on monoprice... I ordered that this morning just after posting. Good to know it should work well.

I just need to get a Harmony Remote now... I've got like 9 remotes sitting on my coffee table, lol... and the 4x1 switcher will be another one.

Anyone know of a good *cheap* place to buy the Harmonys??

Walmart has the 520 for $89.00, and Sam's has the next one up (620, 650 or 680 maybe? It's an older model) for about the same price.

The Sam's one doesn't have dedicated "skip" buttons, but the 520 (I think that's what it is) does.

Those are the cheapest ones I've found in the B&M stores.

...I just need to get a Harmony Remote now... I've got like 9 remotes sitting on my coffee table, lol... and the 4x1 switcher will be another one.

Anyone know of a good *cheap* place to buy the Harmonys??Depending on the depth of your pockets, *AND* your 'Geek Quotient', you may want to research JP1: JP1 Remotes Forums - Index (http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/)

Buy an inexpensive remote WITH a specific 6-pin connector on the pcb (*MANY* choices are available), buy, or build, an interface cable, load up a freeware program on your PC and proceed to teach your new remote as many commands as its memory will hold.