Hi everyone,

We are constructing a new home with a dedicated home theater. I have attached the floorplan.

I have been out of technology for a few years now but would REALLY appreciate some advice with regards to home theater design.

Framing is almost complete of the home, so if the dimensions need to be changed (the only thing that CAN be changed is the wall with entrance - it may be able to be pushed back more into the 'billiard room' if required), please let me know asap.

Also, what is the largest screen size I should do? We plan 2 tiers of seating, with a lower deck (refer to plan). I was hoping to do 133" screen. The floorplan shows a set of double swinging doors, I was thinking of using a 4 door partition to be able to open up the room more so if we are playing in the billiard room, we would still get a nice view of the screen.

What do you suggest for good, not too expensive wall insulation?

What about wiring? Wire for 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, or what?

As far as budget, budget is very good, but not extreme.

I want a theater that will blow my mind (and my buddies) in terms of video and sound.

THANK YOU!!

Screen size is largely personal preference and depends on projector as well....

Are you going 2.35:1 CIH or 16:9? More for movies or sports/tv?

Wire for 7.1 and run conduit everywhere before drywall goes up.

Your going to compromise sound control with four doors....but I don't know if that is a priority for you or not.

Hi, 80% movies 20% TV/Sports -- what do you suggest?

I want the largest screen size that would not require someone watching to move their head and or be uncomfortable to the neck.

I will be going CIH...2.35:1 as it is better for movies and is a more immersive experience. You should look into it. There is a separate section here dedicated to it. Also, if you look in the "show me" sticky, there is a link to some 2.35:1 CIH theaters. It is easier on you to watch since it is wider and not so tall.

Also, check the what i'd do differently sticky for possible things to do before you get too far along.

For insulation, I heard staggered studs are better. It is too late for that, but contractor has stated we can double the walls for approximately $2,500 more. Is this a good idea? or is the money better used towards something else?

I don't think you will have enough space behind the back row seating if you are using Full Size HT seating.

If I read your plan correctly the room is 20 ft long. You could make the riser 8 1/2 ft deep and position the seating 2 ft into the room. That would be better for surround sound and then the first row seating distance would be 11 1/2 ft.

I think I would add 1 1/2 ft to the length of the room, (total of 21.5) put a 9 ft deep riser. Use 30 inches behind the seats for access to the side aisles. That results in first row seating (eyes) at about 12 ft.

, but contractor has stated we can double the walls for approximately $2,500 more. Is this a good idea? or is the money better used towards something else?

Doubling the drywall on the walls and ceiling is a great idea as PART of a strategy to contain sound. GO to the Green Glue web site and read all the background data on soundproofing rooms for better understanding of the issues.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/a-SoundproofingTopic.php

Paying $2500 to add another layer of DW to the room is robbery. But that is typical contractor pricing. If you hired the the DW crew directly you would probably pay less than $1000 for the extra layer.

For insulation, I heard staggered studs are better. It is too late for that, but contractor has stated we can double the walls for approximately $2,500 more. Is this a good idea? or is the money better used towards something else?

do you mean isolation? ...and by "double the walls" do you mean doubling up drywall? if sound isolation is an issue for you, adding mass by doubling up drywall will probably help a bit, but definitely look into adding a dampening layer in between like green glue. green glue n double drywall go together like peanut butter n jelly. without jelly, you got one dry ass sandwich.

Sound isolation and double doors in generally don't mix. Pick one.

EDIT - I took double walls as double cavity walls - which I think will constrain your room size significantly. Again, an isolation technique, in which case you need to consider all sides of the aquarium, and all flanking paths (lighting, HVAC, no drop ceilings, etc).

BigMouthinDC: thnx for the tips. unfortunately, the framers move quick, i think they've already framed the riser per the plans (Attached), 7' 6" deep riser. your idea makes sense though, I'm going to ask them to extend the riser to get more upper tier space.

is this green glue stuff, staggered walls, and insulation only good for sound isolation? because that is not a major concern, the theater is in a separate wing of the home.

is this green glue stuff, staggered walls, and insulation only good for sound isolation? because that is not a major concern, the theater is in a separate wing of the home.

Yup....

If sound isolation isn't a major concern you are luckier than most of us, but you should just take a look at what is around the theater. Besides using sound isolation to keep sound in the theater, its also to keep sound out of the theater....think washer, dryer, dishwasher, traffic, HVAC, etc.

Separately, you should also be considering acoustical sound treatments as well.

I'm going to ask them to extend the riser to get more upper tier space.


I didn't ask but where does the riser end in the back?
If it is the back wall of theater you should think about doing a landing/steps on the billiard side of the theater wall. You really don't want to have a step down at the door threshold. This also means the door in that wall must be roughed in at a higher level.

insulation is definitely not just for isolation. it'll keep your walls from resonating as well as do the obvious...insulating.

riser ends to the back wall.

Sheetrocks up, spkr wire ran, but want to double check spkr locations.

Pink or blue option? i know the center will be in the center obviously. will have perforated screen. should the front l/r be at the corners of the room or a the L/R edge of the screen? i presume the rear surrounds would be in line with fronts?

Please let me know asap. thanks!

For the front's blue. You don't want your mains in the corner like that.

As for the rears and surrounds it;'s hard to tell what you are doing? Are the blues in-ceiling and the pink's on the wall? If so I would always go for wall mounted speakers.

For the front's blue. You don't want your mains in the corner like that.

As for the rears and surrounds it;'s hard to tell what you are doing? Are the blues in-ceiling and the pink's on the wall? If so I would always go for wall mounted speakers.
I agree with Michael 100%! but would add that the rear speakers should not be in the corner. Instead they should be on the back wall. The side speakers should be between the two rows of seating.

For the front's blue. You don't want your mains in the corner like that.

As for the rears and surrounds it;'s hard to tell what you are doing? Are the blues in-ceiling and the pink's on the wall? If so I would always go for wall mounted speakers.


+1

I would personally shy away from in-wall speakers unless they are high end and "professionally evaluated and installed" for your particular room. I know of a couple of buddies who have installed in-wall/ceiling or those little cube speakers solely for aesthetic reasons and not for sonic performance. If you want "blow your buddies socks off" performance buy based on performance vs. looks. Of course you can get speakers that look awesome and sound phenomenal too.

On a side note I wish my basement was big enough or configured differently to allow me a "billiard room" that would be too sweet.

Regards,

RTROSE

Just out of curiosity what equipment are you considering?

the framers move quick, i think they've already framed the riser per the plans (Attached), 7' 6" deep riser.
Too bad. Risers should be framed after drywall.
You're looking at sound isolation as a means of reducing the amount of sound from the theater into the rest of the house. The true purpose of sound isolation is to get the background noise level in the theater down below 22 NC.

Rear and side surrounds were all planned to be in ceiling.

For the front's blue. You don't want your mains in the corner like that.

As for the rears and surrounds it;'s hard to tell what you are doing? Are the blues in-ceiling and the pink's on the wall? If so I would always go for wall mounted speakers.

So the rears should be on the back wall (where the blues are now), but not back corner? I.e. in line with the fronts?

I agree with Michael 100%! but would add that the rear speakers should not be in the corner. Instead they should be on the back wall. The side speakers should be between the two rows of seating.

AVR-2309CI Denon AV Receiver
2 RW-10d Klipsch 10" 260w Subwoofers
2 RF-82 Klipsch RF-82 Towers
1 R-5502-W Klipsch in-wall Center-Channel
4 R-3650-C Klipsch 6.5" in-ceiling speakers (rear and side surrounds)

would those in ceilings be good?

+1

I would personally shy away from in-wall speakers unless they are high end and "professionally evaluated and installed" for your particular room. I know of a couple of buddies who have installed in-wall/ceiling or those little cube speakers solely for aesthetic reasons and not for sonic performance. If you want "blow your buddies socks off" performance buy based on performance vs. looks. Of course you can get speakers that look awesome and sound phenomenal too.

On a side note I wish my basement was big enough or configured differently to allow me a "billiard room" that would be too sweet.

Regards,

RTROSE

Just out of curiosity what equipment are you considering?

Dennis,

Why so? The framer is needed prior to drywall, their crew is gone by the time drywall gets around.

Should I change something at this point?

Too bad. Risers should be framed after drywall.
You're looking at sound isolation as a means of reducing the amount of sound from the theater into the rest of the house. The true purpose of sound isolation is to get the background noise level in the theater down below 22 NC.

I know it's a pain for the builder; but, otherwise it compromises sound isolation and you wouldn't be able to use the riser as a bass trap (which also assumes you'll have fiberglass batts in the riser.)

Dennis:

thanks for the technical advice. in layman's terms, what do you suggest i do? (I'll have to pay for it with a costly change order no doubt, but if it is significant, I'll do it).

Dennis:

thanks for the technical advice. in layman's terms, what do you suggest i do?

Hire Dennis to do the design for you. ;)

Even if you don't do 7.1 on the speakers, at least run the wiring for it. It's cheap. You can never have enough cables.

So the rears should be on the back wall (where the blues are now), but not back corner? I.e. in line with the fronts?

Correct.

If you go with in-ceiling speakers, you can get away with having the speakers off of the back wall and not completely up on it. Just be sure to space them equally from the walls and directly behind the seating.