Hi,

I would like to setup my BG808s but I need some help for you as this will be my first time.
I have printed the Holy Focus guide and I will follow it but I need some advise.

Some background:
The BG808s was bought about one year ago and mounted together with a 130" 16:9 screen just a couple of months ago (I have no time for my hobby:().
Note that I mounted both PJ and Screen as it was mounted by previous owner (same distance).
Picture in previous installation was amazing.
It has two blocks configured as followed: 1152x864 75MHz and 720p 60MHz.
I live in PAL land.
I am using a HTPC (ATI x1650) but I also have a QuadScan (for some tests on PAL 720x864 @50)

Questions:
- what's the right order for setting up the pj (e.g. raster centering than geometry, focus, convergence, color calibration...)?
- I do not have to check raster center as distance pj/screen is the same as previous installation, correct?
- Convergence seems not to work properly, after warm-up and let's say the time of a movie a do a proper convergence setup, I save it (changing e.g. contrast).
The day, after warm-up, the convergence is not perfect as my setup.
Does convergence depends on how warm the projector is? So convergence will not be the same as the setup until it reaches the same operational temperature?
- G2 Setting. Last day I opened the pj and played with optics (I will use binoculars and the guide to set it correctly). While it was opened I checked G2 settings.
The first time I went on the G2 menu, only the green led on Green tube was on.
The second time I went on the same menu, both green and red (or blu, the one on the left of the green tube - ceiling mounted) were on.
Why the result is different from first and second test?
- What should be the setting from CLAMP, SYNC and PEAKING and what the meaning of this settings?
- What's about the INSTALLATION procedure of the barco menu? should I have to start with it?
- I have IRIS 2 installed but never use it, could this help me?
- Color calibration (thanks you the new fantastic guide) must be performed after all other settings (see question number one)?
- I have tried to set 720p @72Hz but the image is red (blacks tend to be red), is this "just" a problem related to color calibration?

I know these are a lot of questions but I need a guide for dummies...
...this week end I will bring my family on holiday (and I will spend the full week with them) but, starting from 16th, I will be alone at home and I would like to spend all nights on configuring my pj with your answers/guidelines.

Many Thanks,

TinToy

Best place to start:
http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTSetupGuide.shtm

Got me through a lot setting up my 808s.

With mine, clamp and sync don't seem to make any difference; I have peaking off. Iris2 will do a basic setup for you, but people say it's not so great.

thank you.
I used a lot Curt's site but I really missed this guide:confused:.
I will start with this one for setting up the pj on week starting the 16th.

TinToy

as a fellow bg808s owner i can help. my iris2 is worthless, i let it do its thing and it can converge the center point within a 2-5 scan lines. not good enough! so if your iris2 works as good as mine i would just forget about using that since i can do a much better job manualy. if you play around with the geometry/focus/roster size/crt toe you can get them in the ballpark before you even start converging. if your just playing around and havnt mounted it to the ceiling yet i wouldnt mess with shimflug. shimflug ajustment is stepless and great for getting corner focus spot on. you'll need a long socket wrench for that one. you dont want to go to one extreme or another when ajusting that you'll notice when you ajust it the back end of the tubes will move about. common sence. once you get one scan rate setup nicely you can copy blocks for all your other scan rates and that will save you alot of time. before i knew about that i would go threw all the settings for each input each and every time i moved the bg808s to another screen. my 808s tends to drift a little on the center points of its ajustments so i find myself always lining up the center zone every 5th time i start it up. hopefully yours doesnt do the same or worse.

if you get stuck at a certain point let me know where your at on setup and i'll try to help.

thank you nickis2cool24.
I will do for sure.

TinToy

Also, 'Set to midposition' is your friend. There's nothing like doing it from position zero a few times to learn a LOT.

I am back from 'holiday'...
...this evening I will set to midpoint and start playing with my little boy.

I will let you know my progress.

Anyone on G2 settings? is it normal that G2 has two different behavior in two different tests?

TinToy

Take a look at this quick reference guide too:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco_Setup_Quick_Reference_Guide.shtm

Kal

Thanks Kal,

any help on my questions from 1st thread? E.g. G2 and convergence?
As in your guide you point to the service manual, do you know where to find it (or did you have it?)?

TinToy

PS
Asap I will order the Eye-One

@nickis2cool24

I have a question for you as I am getting lost.
Yesterday I spent some time to play with the BG808s.
I used the Barco's Installation Manual as reference and I started the INSTALLATION --> RASTER CENTERING just to check if the CRTs (red and blue) were correctly aligned (I skipped for the moment the OPTICAL LEN FOCUSING procedure).
In the manual (as well as in the CRTSetupGuide) there are the 'standard' picture of rasters centered in the CRT faceplate...
...but on my BG the projected raster is wider then the phosphor area.

Where you define the size of the projected raster used during the installation procedure?:confused:

Currently my memory blocks are using a projected raster which is correctly centered and inside the CRT faceplate.
So I do not understand the relationship between the warmup/installation/memory block raster.

which are the menu options to set Horizontal and Vertical shift for both red and blue to midposition (this is necessary for the next setup step CRT Projection Angle Adjustment)?

thanks,

TinToy

PS
I have also used the IRIS2...
...nightmare, I had to re-do CONVERGENCE manually :mad:!

Currently my memory blocks are using a projected raster which is correctly centered and inside the CRT faceplate.
So I do not understand the relationship between the warmup/installation/memory block raster.Probably because there is no relationship between those two.:)

Installation menu is needed only when you make mechanical installation without source connected to projector. It use standard line frequency that have different timings what your source.

which are the menu options to set Horizontal and Vertical shift for both red and blue to midposition (this is necessary for the next setup step CRT Projection Angle Adjustment)?

Set center points to 50 from normal R/B convergence.

But I don't know why that is needed for Projection Angle Adjustment? Just make sure that R/G picture is horizontally centered and inside tube face plate before mechanical adjustment. Check that again after all adjustment are done, because final convercence affect to R/B corners and chance distance to tube edges.

mid points on the bg808s are 49. roster is larger then the actual picture, you can increase bandwith and heat produced by blanking out the excess roster after your geometry is correct. i wouldnt get to technical with it untill you have it mounted to the cieling. as far as the roster running off the tube face i wouldnt worry about it to much if your just setting it up. make sure to blank off the excess roster when your done. i turn the briteness up high and contrast down low enough to see the picture and roster at the same time, that way i can blank it out on screen. if you let the picture run off the sides of the tube it will get hot and you could lose a tube. if you have a wear pattern on your tube faces you could put the picture within the wear pattern to keep from having off color edges. mine has a very minor wear pattern so i run it MAX picture size for the ultimate in contrast/resolution/focus but i run it on a small screen low brite/contrast so it doesnt get to hot.

you can turn off the warmup in the service menu. you can also check the run time. mine has 2700 hours on it and has slight contrast modulation burn from the last owner. if i were you i would also stay away from ajusting contrast modulation for top/bottom left/right. you can also modulate center from the outside edges but all of these ajustments have severe burning consequences from what ive seen.

i'm not sure what crt projection angle ajustment is. maby its crt toe in. crt toe in can be ajusted by losening several screws on the top of each outside the case, this procedure can be found better described on curts site. if you want to shimflug (spelling i know) the corner focus to get the best focus you can play around with that. there are two large long hex allen keys on the front of each tube for ajusting that. my favorite test pattern for that one is the fullscreen grid one color at a time.

i hope this helps, i had trouble understanding some of the questions (im thick headed) hopefully you can make sence of it all.

decrease heat by blanking, increase bandwith headroom... lol
typo. nobody wants to increase the heat on there crt projector. to simplify
1. position projector at apropriate distance, i like to roughly focus and use alot of phosphor. to be safe you should leave 1/4" of phosphor from the corners of the picture on the tube faces(not roster)
2. crt toe in, focus crts, ajust shimflug/astigmatism
3. geometry, contrast modulation
4. spot on manual convergence.
5. run test patterns to ajust greyscale and color. i use a scaler for gamma correction and to do that i run a test pattern or scarry movie scene. turn brite down low for inky blacks, bump up the gamma to compensate for the shadow detail lost. i also turn the color saturation up sligtly to compensate for the loss of color from gamma correction. i run my gamma 1.4, brite at 45, contrast at 53 for all my sources. i used a 6500k led flashlight shining at a portion of my screen to get the best whites i could while ajusting the gain. for the bases i turned the briteness up contrast down slightly and found my stock blacks/greys were slightly greenish so i made them black by pumping the red up a bunch and the blue just slightly. the eye one i bet would work alot better. my eyes naturaly ajust somewhat to imperfections in color but if you really want to wow your friends i bet the eye one would do wonders. i also compared my color to a low hour fw900 24" crt computer monitor. i found the 24" computer monitor was way off aswell with the greenish bases and brownish whites.

i forgot to answer your question:
"which are the menu options to set Horizontal and Vertical shift for both red and blue to midposition (this is necessary for the next setup step CRT Projection Angle Adjustment)?"

i would put a paused fullscreen picture on the screen (tvguide page is what i use now because it covers the entire picture area) and move the picture around till its as centered as possible using the center zone convergence for that color.

at one time i had the lenses removed and i used a small ruler to find the center of the tube and i centered them with the center point convergence ajustment, put the lenses back on manualy toed the lenses in to get.

off topic but something alot of crt owners dont realize is the highest resolution acheavable is in the 5:4 ratio. at one time i had a 5:4 projection screen and the projector was primarily for use on my computer. your bg808s is a very sharp very hd capable machine. when hooked upto a computer i run my bg808s at 1600x1280 and with the largest picture area possible i was able to map 1:1 running 1708x1366 60hz with powerstrip. you could still see scan lines threw out parts of the screen! running 1920x1536 60hz or 72hz is also no problem but there is very very slight image softening. small text still easily readable.

Can you explain how contrast modulation can produce 'severe burning'? The goal, if I am not mistaken, is to dim the center of the image (brightening the edges would just be another word for running at higher gain) to decrease hotspotting or nonuniformity. This would almost certainly be less than 15%, or the image would be unwatchable before OR after (too hotspotty or too dim) and I can't see how a gradual average contrast gradient can result in the severe burning you describe.

Certainly it will result in the center of the image, on balance, being worn less than the edges, and if turned off after a very long period might result in greater hotspotting than you would otherwise have, but I can't see it 'causing burn' unless you cranked the contrast WAY up in an attempt to match the center brightness of a severely hotspotted image. Even then the result could not be worse than running the same gain without contrast modulation.

@peri i'm just guessing its from contrast modulation, when i recieved the bg808s the top/bottom contrast modulation was maxed out towards the bottom of the screen if floor mounted. by maxing out the contrast modulation it corrects the color balence slightly, but the burn is still apparent. to get the burn evened out i guess i could run contrast modulation maxed out towards the bottom but that would look terrible for a while but may fix it if properly centered.

correction, reversed and properly centered. i would have a severly blue-ish top and very brownish bottom when running 4:3