Any feedback on these two sets? Either from experience with these exact models or just Mitsu vs Samsung DLP in general.

Samsung HL56A650

or

Mitsubishi WD-60735

Thanks!!

1 is 4 inches larger than the other

Wow! Amazing work there Einstein. That's exactly the feedback I was hoping for.

Go back a page and look at the two threads dedicated to both TVs.
Here I'll make it easier for you:
2008 Samsung DLP's Discussion (HLxxA650/A750) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=971265)

2008 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (735/736 and diamond) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1024421)

Get to reading

The DarkChip is a later version on the Mitsubishi.

Wow! Amazing work there Einstein. That's exactly the feedback I was hoping for.


in the time it took you to make this thread and get mad at feedback you could have researched it yourself with 2 great avs threads on those 2 tv's

Wow! Amazing work there Einstein. That's exactly the feedback I was hoping for.

Wow! You must be new to Web culture :rolleyes:
Keywords: Search First!!

They are both great - hard choice. In the end I chose the 65" Mits due to better brightness, blacks, whites, and geometry with a cheaper price ($1600 locally for 65"). With all my tweaking at cc I could never get the sammy to look quite as good - and the warping scared me.

I agree the Sammy geometry warping can be a big shortcoming- but it's colors can be calibrated to be more accurate than the Mits. From a calibrator's POV, the latest Samsungs are a dream come true in many ways- fully adjustable gamut, color decoding, iris, accurate gamma, good grayscale, good resolution, plenty of light output to work with, etc. The bowing and floppy screens dampen my enthusiasm, though, and IMHO they still have a trace of a "digital" (as opposed to lifelike and natural) look. The Mitsu's perfect color adjustments are not as well designed and cannot be made to be as accurate, and they also have the "digital" look and do not measure as well overall post calibration as the Sammys.
Bottom line is overall I prefer the Sammy if you can get a sample that doesn't have the bowing. But that's all after a good, thorough ISF calibration. Things may be different with no calibration or just basic calibration with a test disc.

Hahaha...I did search and did read the two great/detailed posts for both Samsung and Mitsu. Honestly both threads were very much into details of the tech and debates on which features are there or not, etc.

My intention for this posting was for REAL WORLD feedback from users of both sets..not techno babble. Something like "this set has bright spots, bulb life is poor, tech support, etc.".



in the time it took you to make this thread and get mad at feedback you could have researched it yourself with 2 great avs threads on those 2 tv's

Wow...never fails to get a smart remark like yours. I am VERY experienced in web culture and forums. Search is always the first thing I do, but when the results aren't there, you then post a question. Luckily there have been quite a few professional and helpful replies from other members of this site. Those are the ones that give this site credibility.

Wow! You must be new to Web culture :rolleyes:
Keywords: Search First!!

Again, see for yourself. I think the other poster - demonstrating that if ISF calibration is your intention, the controls on the Sammy are better.

Using the "basic" AVSForum blu-ray disk I was able to calibrate the Mits quickly and look great. Out of the box on "natural" and "low" it was pretty close.... turned down the contrast and brightness a bit, slight tint.... that was all.

"Game" mode looks great for X360 games too - clearly the artists use LCD's in bright rooms when making the art :)

hey dont forget the ps3 looks great tooo ;) I just started playing resistance fall of man on my 60735 and i love it..with very little calibration - "natural" and "low"

thanks for the info. I think my set gets more Xbox 360 time than movies!! Right now GTA IV is sucking my free time.

Thanks chad. I am leaning toward the Mitsu now.

in "game mode" on my 360 the Halo "calibration" and PGR4 one was almost dead on. Turned down the contrast from MAX to about 50%.... the rest was fine.....

Clearly the artists work on LCD's in PC colorspace as what should be "white" in Halo is not with warmer, properlly calibrated colors ("low" and "natural"). For example, the snow on "snowbound" should be white. If the colors are calibrated "correctly" for movies, faces etc, the white is more "yellowish" and not pure. While "game mode" may be wrong for watching movies, for "games" the colors are what the artists seem to intend - stark blow-out contrast and a XBOX360 intro screen that is blinding white in the dark (the mits is REALLY bright - then again I am 7 feet away from a 65" for the IMAX experience.... :)

Sorry if I missed this, McKinney, but what kind of TV are you coming from? Are you replacing a DLP? CRT RP?

One difference I've noticed between new Samsung bulb based sets and the latest generation of Mits DLP's is that I personally do not see as much color flashing (rainbow effect, I guess) on the Mits, probably due to the fact that Mits uses extra color segments in their color wheel or even runs it at a higher RPM. My first 2 HDTV's were in fact Samsung sets (HLM & HLN series), and while at first I thought I could deal with them, the rainbows became fatiguing and they gave my gf headaches. I eventually returned the HLN set for a JVC LCoS to avoid a set with color wheels, entirely. For most people, the rainbow effect is not an issue, though. Make sure you're one of those people.

I agree with others who have said that the latest gen of Mits seem to have brighter whites and blacker blacks, probably due to the new TI chip. But I will tell you that the Sammy 61A750 (LED based DLP which eliminates the color wheel) I just bought is so dramatically better in terms of contrast than the JVC LCoS set it replaced that I am more than satisfied with last year's chip in a 2008 TV. This is the reason I ask what you're upgrading from. I have yet to turn on my Samsung and wish I had better contrast. Again, this is probably a factor of how much better the new set is vs the old set.

In terms of bulb life, unit to unit....I have 3 friends who all have Sammy DLP's purchased in the 2004-2005 timeframe, and they are all on the original bulb. I do not have any firsthand experience with Mits DLP bulbs, to be fair.

In terms of service, I had a technician out to fix another TV (prior to my Samsung purchase), and I asked him which he would buy in the DLP category, based on which he runs repair calls on all day long. He said both Sammy and Mits break, pretty equally in his estimation. He said the key difference is that he has an easier time getting parts from Samsung, and that his Samsung units tend to be down for a shorter period of time for this reason.

Hope this perspective is helpful.

Great info Turbo..thanks for putting this together.

My current RPTV is Mitsu that's about 7yrs old..cant remember exact part number, but it's Platinum Plus (??).

Last night I get home from a biz trip, turn on the TV expecting to bask in the horrible convergence issues I have been having, and the dang thing is working perfectly. One week ago it was shot. So, still having a tech come out Monday to troubleshoot, and if his estimate is $500+ then off to the store I will go for a DLP set.



Sorry if I missed this, McKinney, but what kind of TV are you coming from? Are you replacing a DLP? CRT RP?

One difference I've noticed between new Samsung bulb based sets and the latest generation of Mits DLP's is that I personally do not see as much color flashing (rainbow effect, I guess) on the Mits, probably due to the fact that Mits uses extra color segments in their color wheel or even runs it at a higher RPM. My first 2 HDTV's were in fact Samsung sets (HLM & HLN series), and while at first I thought I could deal with them, the rainbows became fatiguing and they gave my gf headaches. I eventually returned the HLN set for a JVC LCoS to avoid a set with color wheels, entirely. For most people, the rainbow effect is not an issue, though. Make sure you're one of those people.

I agree with others who have said that the latest gen of Mits seem to have brighter whites and blacker blacks, probably due to the new TI chip. But I will tell you that the Sammy 61A750 (LED based DLP which eliminates the color wheel) I just bought is so dramatically better in terms of contrast than the JVC LCoS set it replaced that I am more than satisfied with last year's chip in a 2008 TV. This is the reason I ask what you're upgrading from. I have yet to turn on my Samsung and wish I had better contrast. Again, this is probably a factor of how much better the new set is vs the old set.

In terms of bulb life, unit to unit....I have 3 friends who all have Sammy DLP's purchased in the 2004-2005 timeframe, and they are all on the original bulb. I do not have any firsthand experience with Mits DLP bulbs, to be fair.

In terms of service, I had a technician out to fix another TV (prior to my Samsung purchase), and I asked him which he would buy in the DLP category, based on which he runs repair calls on all day long. He said both Sammy and Mits break, pretty equally in his estimation. He said the key difference is that he has an easier time getting parts from Samsung, and that his Samsung units tend to be down for a shorter period of time for this reason.

Hope this perspective is helpful.