View Full Version : frame a wall


tnewguy
07-01-08, 01:41 AM
Is it possible to frame a wall in the basement underneath the center support beam? floating perhaps?

Tedd
07-01-08, 06:11 AM
Sure it is.

I did. Had to cut down the theater entry door and frame 4" to fit though....

BIGmouthinDC
07-01-08, 09:26 AM
yes

Cathan
07-01-08, 09:35 AM
Yeppers. Either glue and/or bolt the top sill to beam.

dwightp
07-01-08, 11:03 AM
I don't know of any reason why you'd need to float the wall. I agree with Cathan -- attach the top plate of the new wall to the bottom of the beam.

Cathan
07-01-08, 12:12 PM
I don't know of any reason why you'd need to float the wall. I agree with Cathan -- attach the top plate of the new wall to the bottom of the beam.

Only reason is if he was decoupling all of his walls. In that case you can use RSIC clips to decouple them.

tnewguy
07-01-08, 02:29 PM
thanks for the answers, thats the plan

Andy238
07-01-08, 03:51 PM
Only reason is if he was decoupling all of his walls. In that case you can use RSIC clips to decouple them.

Exactly what I did. See attachment.

Ted White
07-01-08, 03:58 PM
WOW! That sort of steel drilling isn't for the feint of heart! :o

Cathan
07-01-08, 04:07 PM
WOW! That sort of steel drilling isn't for the feint of heart! :o

No doubt. It completely sucked when I drilled mine. It nearly killed me to drill those few holes.

Ted White
07-01-08, 04:09 PM
I'm getting the feeling I've been left out of the club... But I replaced a 24' section of steel I beam with a 1/2 ton replacement. Does that count?

Cathan
07-01-08, 04:10 PM
Sure does. Especially if you had to install new footers.

Ted White
07-01-08, 04:25 PM
www.tedwhite.homestead.com

Andy238
07-01-08, 09:25 PM
I'm sure wrestling around a 1/2 ton of steel was more of a chore than drilling a few holes. Actually it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. New drill and new bit helped. It was pretty easy. Hmmm, I hope my steel beam isn't faulty :D

Andy

Staffy
07-01-08, 11:57 PM
I bolted my studs right under and also added a 2x2 at the top in order to attach drywall to at the top.

This is what I did for mine:

http://jaycarnley.com/images/I-beam%20drywall%20solution%20and%20Plumbing.JPG

CJO
07-02-08, 10:41 AM
www.tedwhite.homestead.com (http://www.tedwhite.homestead.com)

First time I've seen your build. If it's all right with the OP, I'd like to go off topic for a minute and ask you a question... How do you isolate the conduit that goes to your projector? I had planned on running a conduit from my projector to the equipment room, but didn't know how to isolate it.

Thanks,
CJ

Ted White
07-02-08, 10:45 AM
Great question. First, don't attach the conduit to any of the original framing. In my case I have a second set of joists (floating ceiling) and attached everything to that. If I were to have used clips and hat track, I would have tied the conduit to the hat track with wire in some fashion.

Second, once the cable is run, seal the end(s) with some removable caulk. You can find this at HD or Lowes. It seals but is soft and when you have to access the conduit again in a few years, this removable material will crumble away completely.

Third, seal around the outside of the conduit where it penetrates the drywall.

tnewguy
07-02-08, 10:57 AM
The beam is wood, so i guess i'm lucky there.

CJO
07-06-08, 09:14 PM
Great question. First, don't attach the conduit to any of the original framing. In my case I have a second set of joists (floating ceiling) and attached everything to that. If I were to have used clips and hat track, I would have tied the conduit to the hat track with wire in some fashion.

Second, once the cable is run, seal the end(s) with some removable caulk. You can find this at HD or Lowes. It seals but is soft and when you have to access the conduit again in a few years, this removable material will crumble away completely.

Third, seal around the outside of the conduit where it penetrates the drywall.

Will do.

Thanks!
CJ