If I need to 35 ft to the projector, but the longest cord I can find is 25ft, can I splice 2 cables together inside of my conduit which has the rest of my video cables? I want to be able to do battery back up so that in case I lose power while watching something, the bulb will still be able to cool instead of just being shut down.

I just dont know what the code is for something like this. Or does anyone have any suggestions? I dont think I want to be hiding my battery backup in the ceiling...

What I did was put an outlet right next to the PJ and from the outlet ran a 14/2 romex wire to a male plug on the other end and plugged it into the back of the UPS...works great.

Bob

sweet, that sounds perfect, is that documented in your build anywhere?
thanks

sweet, that sounds perfect, is that documented in your build anywhere?
thanks

Not yet but I will add pics soon....

I just dont know what the code is for something like this. Or does anyone have any suggestions? I dont think I want to be hiding my battery backup in the ceiling...


No, you can't put a splice inside of a conduit unless its accessable. Now you can buy female IEC connectors at Parts Express. You could then buy a 50foot extention cord, cut the female end and excess legnth off, and add the new IEC connector.

Above all however you should not be running the AC cord in the same conduit as the signal cables. It it's an HDMI connection you may be OK but if analog video, you will likely pick up some hum bars at 35 feet. P.S. running AC power with low voltage cables in the same conduit is against code anyway.

What I would do:
Run the seperate outlet insalled at the projector and use MC cable. That's that metal sprial stuff. 14ga is enough for a single projector. Keep this run at least a foot away from the signal cable conduit on long parallel runs. Short proximity is OK such as running through a hole for a few inches. At the power conditioner end install a box and splice the MC cable to a power cord stub. Don't be tempted to attach a male plug directly to the MC cable. I know people do it but it's not to code and will be very stiff likely to pull out in its own. Be sure to gound the metal box and MC cable in addition to using the green wire in the MC cable. All these parts can be found at Home Depot or Lowes.

What I would do:
Run the seperate outlet insalled at the projector and use MC cable. That's that metal sprial stuff. 14ga is enough for a single projector. Keep this run at least a foot away from the signal cable conduit on long parallel runs. Short proximity is OK such as running through a hole for a few inches. At the power conditioner end install a box and splice the MC cable to a power cord stub. Don't be tempted to attach a male plug directly to the MC cable. I know people do it but it's not to code and will be very stiff likely to pull out in its own. Be sure to gound the metal box and MC cable in addition to using the green wire in the MC cable. All these parts can be found at Home Depot or Lowes.

OK, I have to be 100% honest, I am definitely not completely following. Do you have any pictures of this process, or links to some of the parts, at least then I might be able to start putting 2 and 2 together and figure it out...but who knows.

Second, I was planning to have a 2" conduit run for my video wires, I realize now it is a bad idea to try and run the power cord in there too (not sure what I was thinking). However, here is my dilemma. given the location of the cold air returns for my HVAC and the duct work itself, I dont have many options for where to bring the conduit. I was thinking to have the conduit within a few inches of the power running to somewhere in the house, it would be say 4" away. But looking at what you wrote about parallel runs this wont work either.

while writing this though I thought, because I dont want to run the conduit and have it come out in front of the projector, I guess it would be way easier if I just install a box in the ceiling and run a new line for the existing power. This way, I can run the conduit free and clear of power, and because it only requires a small hole, I can re-work where the power runs and everyone is happy.

so basically this only leaves me with figuring out how to make that extension on the power...

Ok, this is getting more difficult than it should be.

Using Romex outside the conduit is legal and within code just make sure you staple it on a joist every 2ft or so. Powering a ceiling box from the projector should be fine as well and I do not see why this is not code as all you are doing is making it into an extension cord by using wire that can be used in walls, ceilings etc...placing a male end on Romex will not pull off if done correctly, using MC, BX or commercially known as Greenfield is ridiculous as it is not required on residential homes.

Bob

Is that like making a make shift powerbridge type outlet, or should I just be buying one of these?

powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html


Can you achieve the same type of outlet by spending a few bucks at Lowes or HD as opposed to spending 60 on the real thing?

Is that like making a make shift powerbridge type outlet, or should I just be buying one of these?

powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html


Can you achieve the same type of outlet by spending a few bucks at Lowes or HD as opposed to spending 60 on the real thing?

You can use a plastic pvc box and a 15 amp outlet from Lowes or HD and use 14/2 indoor romex wiring. Here are the pics:

I did the following to connect my projector and sub to the power conditioner. There is 12/2 Romex running from the gang boxes, shown in the photo, to 20 amp outlets - one for the pj(in ceiling next to pj) and one to the sub(on wall behind sub) The wires coming out of the gang boxes in the photo are heavy duty extension cords cut to fit and plugged directly into the power conditioner. This passed inspection in my county - might not be the same where you live.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z32/ccubeman/outlets1.jpg

Ok, this is getting more difficult than it should be.

Using Romex outside the conduit is legal and within code just make sure you staple it on a joist every 2ft or so. Powering a ceiling box from the projector should be fine as well and I do not see why this is not code as all you are doing is making it into an extension cord by using wire that can be used in walls, ceilings etc...placing a male end on Romex will not pull off if done correctly, using MC, BX or commercially known as Greenfield is ridiculous as it is not required on residential homes.

Bob

MC or BX has an advantage of additional shielding.

As for a plug on the end of Romex, that is a code violation. In wall wire is not intended to be flexed like a cord. And it is not rated for exposed usage. Yes it will work and probably be safe enough but it's not a professional way to accomplish this. A box connected cord such as pictured above or a male wall plug is the proper way to do this.

You cannot put a plug directly on Romex. It is against code. Period.

Edit: I see someone mentioned that already.

The powerbridge is the easiest cheapest method -- some people have had luck being able to purchase everything at HD/Lowes. I bought the plugs online for around $15 together and supplied my own romex.

Looks good and is fully code compliant.

You cannot put a plug directly on Romex. It is against code. Period.

Edit: I see someone mentioned that already.

The powerbridge is the easiest cheapest method -- some people have had luck being able to purchase everything at HD/Lowes. I bought the plugs online for around $15 together and supplied my own romex.

Looks good and is fully code compliant.

any pictures of your configuration?

why a easy thing turn to difficult for you ?
you need only change the 25feet power cords to 35 power cords?
you can use the extension cords or power strips???????

I think you can buy it from many web store.

why a easy thing turn to difficult for you ?
you need only change the 25feet power cords to 35 power cords?
you can use the extension cords or power strips???????

I think you can buy it from many web store.


That would not be to code connecting the two in the ceiling...


Also, I have decided after much debate that since this project will cost much more in the long run that the 60 buck it will cost is nothing and I will just do it right the first time and go with the PowerBridge solution. It is the smartest and most "right" way to do this. And plus, i was looking at heavy duty extension cords last night at lowes and the shortest one was 25ft and it was 22 bucks, so really, for the 30 or 40 bucks it will cost from the forum sponsor is really quite little in terms of the cost of the entire project when all said and done. I appreciate any and all insight folks gave during this decision making process as it was definitely all still very informative and beneficial. thank you!

I did the following to connect my projector and sub to the power conditioner. There is 12/2 Romex running from the gang boxes, shown in the photo, to 20 amp outlets - one for the pj(in ceiling next to pj) and one to the sub(on wall behind sub) The wires coming out of the gang boxes in the photo are heavy duty extension cords cut to fit and plugged directly into the power conditioner. This passed inspection in my county - might not be the same where you live.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z32/ccubeman/outlets1.jpg



May I ask what type of outlet(s) you did for the sub? You had to run line level or speaker cable to it for sound in additon to the AC. Did you do 2 outlets by the sub- one for AC, and a low voltage outlet for the sub? what type of connectors in the outlet for the sound?