I decided to post my dedicated theater construction progress after reading through the countless threads where others have lead the way to successful home theater builds. I get motivated when I read them and it seems as though the DIYer's feed off of many of you advising them along the way.

Now with that said:
My theater is apart of a master-planned basement renovation(workout room, gameroom, bathroom, lounge area, bar area and dedicated theater. The theater will be 13'10"X16'5". screen against the 13' wall. However, I have a duct that drops 9" from the ceiling, approx 7' from the left wall. The first row will be approx 9' to 10' from the screen. I'll post pictures as soon as I can figure out where I just posted it!!?? I'll also post the new proposed location for the screen.

Equipment:
Pioneer VSX-1015 (no HDMI capabilities) plan to go with a 7.1 system
Denon DVD player
DIY screen soon (92" to a 110" if I can squeeze it)
DIY tower speakers
DIY sub
XBOX 360
More equipment to follow as I have others but they wont make it to the theater.
Still haven't settled on a projector as of yet

I do have a question as I'm in the final stages of drywall finish work. When building a proscenium, what size of wood is generally used and do you secure it to the ceiling or the stage or both? I hear statements about decoupling and want to know how I should approach this. Also, I can't really afford to use any space behind the screen as the room is only 16 1/2" deep with the entrance in the rear of the room. I want to put two rows of seating in the room.

Thanks for now, I have to start my new part-time job, "drywall counter-intelligence"!!!


Avery

This is a picture of the new screen location. I put together some 1X4's for a mock screen...


Avery

Oops, I forgot the picture...


Avery

Why is the screen right up against the ceiling?

The ceiling is only 90" and I want to get a second row in there. With the screen down 9" I need a 12" riser on a 92" screen. With the screen up close to the ceiling, I only need something like a 7 or 8" riser. I'm trying to make sure the folks can see above my head if I were in the front row. That frame is wider that the finished screen would be. I'd love to just drop the screen down, leave the projector flush to the ceiling and be sure that the folks behind me could see the screen.

I also want to keep the projector up as high as I can, out of my way when on the riser. Hey, I'm learning as I go here. If anyone can help me better design this room by all means step in. Heaven knows I need all the help I can get.



Avery

I think your screen is too high if you plan to sit in the front row most of the time, (and more so if you recline your chair). You will get tired of looking up all the time. Most projectors will allow height adjustments.
My opinion is that since my wife and I do 98% of the viewing ourselves, I want to optimize the seats we use regularly. Occasional guests don't care where they sit or if they don't have the perfect seat; they are just glad to be in the room.
That being said, you could consider staggering the seating to allow for better viewing in back rows. There are other options too, like getting shorter seats in the front and taller ones in the back, etc.

Either way, unless you are doing something fancy, you could change the screen height later on with little impact. Though not so easily for the riser...

How much of a drop should I do? If I go with lets say 9" from the ceiling, can I still put a projector on the ceiling? I was once told that all I need to do is have the lens hit the screen material and then I'm good to go. As far as getting the image on the screen.


Avery

I plan on building two columns to hide my left and right channels. I think my center will end up resting on a stand. I too am limited on my depth, so I don't want to give up floor space for a false wall.

I went back and forth over how to do my columns. Ultimately, I decided to build them AFTER the carpet was installed. I'll attach them to the stage via screws, but I plan to decouple the top from the ceiling. I figure that if I frame the column within a couple of inches of the ceiling, I can attach fabric panels that rest close to or against the ceiling. This also allows me to remove the columsn if I ever need to, as it's just a matter of removing screws around the base.


Just my two cents. Welcome to the forums.

Also, I would build your riser to soften the line of sight from the back row, as opposed to adjusting your screen to meet the back row requirements. Basically, lower the screen and build taller in the back.

Thanks for everything, I'm going down to the basement and figuring out how to move things around again. Got to get this right. Acouple of home theater companies around my area gave ridiculous prices and some only wanted to work my entire project. When I'm finished I'll invite them over to see what a real theater looks like:D

Big Ave

You don't need a Home Theater company!. Just hang here and read all you can read in the end for every hour you put in the Basement, you may also put a hour here at this Forum. But you will have a Great Theater In the end you will have a better looking and better working Home Theater. Than one of those ridiculous prices home theater companies can make.
"Don't make a lier out of me".

A lot of Home Theater places want all or nothing, They may finish in three months but you have to live with it. Hell there are Guys here do there theater over for what every reason and they look Great. Good Luck to you and think about those ridiculous prices when you add the extras to your Home theater.

Amen to that.:)

How much of a drop should I do? If I go with lets say 9" from the ceiling, can I still put a projector on the ceiling? I was once told that all I need to do is have the lens hit the screen material and then I'm good to go. As far as getting the image on the screen.


Avery

Every projector is different, but generally you want the lens to be even with the top of the screen. This is another reason why you don't want your screen right up to the ceiling. The lens of your projector can't be that high (even if the PJ is right up against the ceiling, the lens won't be). I would think 9" would be fine, but I'd shoot for 12".

As for your riser issue, one possible solution is to build a two part riser. The first part may be only 6 or 8" tall and then you build a slightly taller riser for just the chairs. That way you get the same benefit when seated, but you don't bump your head when walking to the chair. Now the extra chair height may make it tough for short folks to get in them, so you mileage may vary this suggestion.

I agree with all the posters, your screen is way too high and not visually optimal. I would easily place it about 10-12" from ceiling. Are you framing a screen or doing a drop down?

You certainly do not want the screen that high it is just really uncomfortable to watch from the front unless the back row is going to be your main row then set it for that row. My first screen was 106" 16/9 and was 25" off the floor and was just about perfect for my taste.

But your room looks like the perfect setup for a CIH (constant image height) screen will make your 16/9 slightly shorter but your scope movies will be larger. Thats what I went to with my smaller room and love it but I do mainly 90% movie watching there.

Nate

You certainly do not want the screen that high it is just really uncomfortable to watch from the front unless the back row is going to be your main row then set it for that row. My first screen was 106" 16/9 and was 25" off the floor and was just about perfect for my taste.

But your room looks like the perfect setup for a CIH (constant image height) screen will make your 16/9 slightly shorter but your scope movies will be larger. Thats what I went to with my smaller room and love it but I do mainly 90% movie watching there.

Nate

Totally agree

I'm dropping the screen down from the ceiling atleast 9". I plan to go with a fixed screen. I was planning on a 92" to 106" screen. I'm now looking into the CIH option. I'll do the DIY screen option of either the Black widow or the Casa Platinum grey material from Johann Fabrics.

I had to stop work on the theater to finish sanding-priming-painting the rest of the basement. This will do wonders for my well being(wife wondering when will I ever stop tracking dust everywhere?). This also preps rest of the basement for floors and a definite end in site to all the destracting work(any work not done to improve the theater)...

Also, I'm going to build the proscenuim with the towers mounted to the ceiling. Hovering over the stage with enough room for the subs to sit under. This way the towers are decoupled from the stage. The subs will sit on a platform that will be decoupled from the curved portion of the stage. When completed, I'll have the towers, subs & stage separate. Does any of this make sense? Am I over doing it? Or is there a need to do more or even differently?


Thanks in advance,

Big Ave

Ok, back to work time. I've finally figured out the design of the proscenium (towers, screen size and stage layout). Filling the stage with sand today. Also the plan is to figure out how to form a lip around the stage for a rope light and sturdy enough for carpet to be attached. Also, I need to figure out how to attach the screen to the entire assembly. I'm taking up no space behind the screen as I'm trying to maximize the 16 1/2' length of the room.

Posting pictures later today.


Big Ave

Now, I'll try and post some pix.

Adding more photos, trouble in doing so however.

Big Ave

Ok, I've painted my ceiling a deep blue color and started the crown molding that will house the blue rope light. The proscenuim area has been painted with the blue as well (easier to hide behind the black fabric). I had a busy weekend and managed to get alot accomblished. However, I still have touch-up spots to paint as the camera displayed the areas behind the molding that need attention.

My colors are going to be blue/black color on the lower walls and a two tone gray on top. The crown and proscenium will be black.

I haven't figured out the color for the rug as of yet however. I also need to know if there's a cheaper alternative to the Grafik eye. I need the four(4) zone and I found it for $560. Not for a light switch. There must be a better way.

This coming weekend I will try and finish all the painting and all the crown molding. The following weekend I'll tackle the columns/sconces/outlets.


BigAve

For 4 zone lighting, check out the Lutron spacer system. I'm using it right now, and it should save you some dough over the Grafik Eye. I have 1 master unit and 4 spacer dimmers.

Thanks for the assistance, I'm looking at some websites now. With the short web-search I find them $200 bucks cheaper. Good call MN_Hokie.

BigAve

Glad I could help.

Also keep your eye on the bay for the grafik eye, I got the the 6 zone unit for about 4 bills. Also got the CIR-WH unit for 45 bucks which runs for over 250 everywhere else I've looked. They also have some spacer stuff. Just make sure you look for exactly model types you may need.

Thanks for those responses. I've been busy lately at work and unable to update the thread.

MN_Hokie, you and I are running about the same pace. I'll post pictures this weekend.

I reconfirgured my AV rack today and put in the receiver and some speakers to hear the room before I add the wall treatments. I think I'll paint the inside of the rack area black. Or maybe I'll try something else, not sure now.

I've been going back and forward over the columns and wall sconces. First I was going for a gray room with cherry wood accents. However I got a deal on some fabric and the room went to blue & gray. Now I needed to change the color for the columns. I tried a Onyx stain deal but the look wasn't for me I dont think. Now I'll fabric wrap the columns with the same black material on the proscenium.

I'm having a home theater designer come out next weekend to check out my progress and make sure I'm not headed for re-do city.

I got some sconces that look close to some I saw at a custom dealer for $125 each. I got mine for $5.99 each. I'll dress mine up to look just as good if not better.

Still up in the air about a projector. And for a screen? The custom installer says 92" is the max I should go if I want great picture quality and brightness. All I want to do is have the ability to watch NCAA bassketball this season in the comfort of my theater with some light in there!

As soon as I can download some pictures I will and update this thread.

If anyone is looking I have some questions:

1. What does Logan mean?
2. How far should I go with my room construction before I construct my riser?
3. Has anyone bought speakers from "thespeakercompany"?

Thanx in advance for all the responses.

BigAve

If anyone is looking I have some questions:

1. What does Logan mean?
2. How far should I go with my room construction before I construct my riser?
3. Has anyone bought speakers from "thespeakercompany"?


BigAve


1. Do we really know? Logan will continue to be a mystery to us all.

2. Build your riser and stage after the drywall is up. If at all possible, you want them to be decoupled from the walls.

3. Never heard of them.

I'll have to check your build thread out in it's entirety later today. Good to know someone is running at the same pace as me. Keep moving forward. It seems to get slower and slower as you get closer and closer to the end.

If you're able to, try embedding the links to your images within your post. You can do that by clicking the pictue of the little mountain when post. That way it makes it easier for people to see the pictures in the thread without having to click on each one.

I now have some photos of my progress thus far. Sconces up, columns up and powered with an outlet on all four. Ceiling painted midnight blue. Dimmer switches up, nothing fancy though. I'll upgrade to something controlable later on. Acoustic panels starting to go up now. However, I need to find out where I can get some batting from. What type is really the question. If anyone out there could help me I'd really appreciate it.


BigAve

For some reason I can never get these into a post like everyone else. I'll keep trying though.

BigAve