Mitsubishi WD-XX735,736 and 835 Settings and Tweaks [Text View] - Page 2

ksbarnz

10-24-08, 03:31 PM

ksbarnz, thanks for the reply. I just ordered the "October Special" from SpectraCal. I am sure after I read everything I will have more questions but today I have a few. I don't have a blu ray player yet should I wait until I get one and use it to calibrate (so I have a 1080p image). Also, wondering does the meter go on a tripod or how is it positioned correctly?

As far as positioning the meter, you attach it directly to your screen. A bit of scotch tape does the trick. You might also want to purchase a USB extension cable so you have some room to work because the cable with the meter is not too long.

You could calibrate your set with a SD calibration disk that shows the appropriate test patters, 0-100 ire values, 100% and 75% color windows, however you will be calibrating to SD standards REC 601. You will need to recalibrate when you get a blu-ray player in order to calibrate to the HD colorspace REC709.

swak

10-24-08, 10:21 PM

Hi-- Tom H.--my ISF-calibrator came back after studying the new service menu on the MITS Diamonds and did some more color saturation tweaking (not just gray scale) within the the service menu.

I have an updated ISF calibration report for my WD-73835

I decided to try your perfect color and perfect tint settings on my 73835 and they look good! I was wondering if you would post your other settings?

Bonsai418

10-24-08, 10:50 PM

Don't know if this is the right forum to ask this question, but here it goes.
I own a WD-73C8, according to the spec's it should do "Full Screen Image Freeze".
But it only works in the Antenna1 input not with "Component" (my Time Warner Cable Box) or "HDMI" (my Onkyo 705 Receiver).
Is there a way to go into the Service Menu to correct this problem ?

rdlesk

10-25-08, 08:57 AM

Hi:
I have a new WD-73835 and am having the following problem:

I'm using single HDMI input (HDMI 1) from an AVR. The TV does not retain changes to the video settings when it is turned off and back on. It resets all modes, Brilliant, Bright, and Natural, back to the factory defaults and the TV comes on in Brilliant mode.

The user guide says that you have to "Name" the input to avoid reset. I have assigned it the Name "AVR".

I can switch AV sources from TV, DVD, Xbox etc without it changing the settings.

I have reset the TV a couple times, but it still has this problem.

I have a 2 year old Mits 65' and have helped others setup their Mits TV's and have never had this kind of problem. I cannot figure out what is going on. Am I missing something in the setup or use of this model?

Any help would be much appriciated. Thanks ... rich

seggers

10-25-08, 11:07 AM

clone1008

10-26-08, 07:58 AM

After calibrating my WD-65736 I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread on calibrating the new Mitsubishi's. This way we could have a central place to share our ideas and settings. I initially used ColorHCFR to calibrate my TV but after experiencing freezing problems and inaccurate results I ended up using CalMAN to calibrate my TV.

Here is a little breakdown on what I used to calibrate my 736. First set the TV to Low color temp and then take a grayscale and primary and secondary colors reading and save it as your before settings. You can then refer back to this when you are finished to see how much your TV has improved after calibration.

To access the service menu, on the remote press Menu and then 2,4,5,7. This will bring up the service menu. The video button scrolls through each setting in the service menu. UP and Down changes each value, and pressing Enter (or OK) not sure what it is exactly on the remote since I do not have it in front of me, saves the changes.

Then I set my contrast and brightness in accordance with the "Calibration for Dummies Link" (see below). Next I calibrated my grayscale. G(RGB)L the first few settings, adjust the upper end of the grayscale, while BM(RGB) adjusts the low end. Once you get your grayscale correct, calibrate your primary colors, and then secondary colors.

Each color has the follwing in the service menu, with what I guess each could mean:

G(RGBCMY)L (Gain)
S(RGBCMY)L (Saturation)
H(RGBCMY)L (Hue)

Here is what you are going to try and calibrate each color to if you are using a high definition calibration disk:

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

Use these to dial in your colors. Once you have your colors correct, test your grayscale again and make adjustments if needed. Everything effects everything, if that makes any sense, so make sure you recheck your grayscale after making changes to your colors and vice-versa.

One more tip, make changes in the service menu and then exit out to take the readings. You will see why, the colors and brightness differ when you are in the service menu. Those of you with 835's might have an easier time than I did since you have perfect tint, which I don't, only perfect color. So I had to adjust the tint/hue, of each color in the service menu. I was able to get my primary and secondary colors except for Blue and Red close to perfect. Which after a many tries I believe is a limitation of this TV.

In case you don't already have it here are a couple of links, the first is the calibration for dummies guide, and the second is the calibration disk I used, AVS HD 709. The third is for CalMAN, the calibration software I used.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

http://avshd709.com/

http://www.spectracal.com/

Here are my current settings. These might give you a good starting point, if not you can always reset your service menu back to defaults by pressing 0 while in the service menu, and selecting restore white balance, first option I think.

Perfect Color
41
35
33
43
37
24

Color 31
Tint 25
Contrast 11
Brightness 30
Color Temp Low
Video Noise off
Deep Field Imager Off
Sharpness 35

ggl 1020
grl 994
gbl 1045
grl 128
srl 128
hrl 25
ggl 128
sgl 117
hgl 31
gbl 128
sbl 128
hbl 0
gcl 106
scl 86
hcl 15
gml 128
sml 123
hml 99
gyl 128
syl 107
hyl 65
grwl 128
ggwl 110
gbwl 110
bmg 0
bmr 16
bmb 65528
ofg 2
ofr 65530
ofb 5
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 100
idl 36
dbk 1

Good luck and be patient. It is very tedious, make small changes and take readings. It is worth it though once you have it calibrated. Let me know if you have any questions or problems. I've attached a pdf of my calibration report.

My service menu on my WD-65835 has different settings than yours. Could you help me to understand mine. I am totally confused at this point. Mine are as follows:

1. HVPOS
2. GGH
3. GRH
4. GBH
8. CCA
9. GRH
10. SRH
11. HRH
12. GGH
13. SGH
14. HGH
15. GBH
16. SBH
17. HBH
18. GCH
19. SCH
20. HCH
21. GMH
22. SMH
23. HMH
24. GYH
25. SYH
26. HYH
27. GRWH
28. GGWH
29. GBWH
51. BMG
52. BMR
53. BMB
54. OFG
55. OFR
56. OFB
57. CMG
58. CMR
59. CMB
60. IDL
61. DBK

Some of my numbers have the same letters and also my menu skips from 4 to 8 and then from 29 to 51. Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

vandu

10-26-08, 10:37 AM

Clone1008,
Change your color temperature to low in the user menu. You should then see what ksbarnz is seeing in the service menu.

clone1008

10-26-08, 11:07 AM

Clone1008,
Change your color temperature to low in the user menu. You should then see what ksbarnz is seeing in the service menu.

Ahhh, ok thank you.

Vasichko

10-27-08, 12:07 PM

I used the OPs settings on my WD-60C8 and it looks great. The issues with the color are gone, loving this TV even more.

Before the adjustment I was considering taking it back and getting a Sammy.

Think Im going to stick with the Mitsu, even more so since I got it at a great price.

clone1008

10-28-08, 03:30 PM

ksbarnz

10-28-08, 03:35 PM

I have a question regarding PerfectColor and PerfectTint. How do I use them when calibrating my TV? When I have my colorometer in the middle my screen and I go to either one of these it brings up a big color chart right in the middle of my screen also. There is no way I can calibrate with two colors over lapping each other. Is there a way to get it to the bottom of the screen?

Unfortunately you have to make the adjustments and then exit out and take the reading. There is no way to move the color box from the calibration disk that I know of.

njfoses

10-28-08, 03:42 PM

Has anybody figured out how to get the 835's gamma level to even out and still obtain over 30ftL?

Mike

clone1008

10-28-08, 03:55 PM

Here is what you are going to try and adjust each color to.

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

The chart shows the x y and Y value for each color. I'd start with Perfect Tint to try and dial in each color's xy value but it might take a combination of Perfect Tint and the service menu to get it perfect. Use Perfect Color to dial in the Y value for each color. To find the Y value for each color take a 100% white reading and look at it's Y value. Now multiply this value by the Y value in the above chart. The result is the Y value you are shooting for for that color.

To make it easier to calibrate a color, show a 100% color window from you calibration disk and pause it. Start taking a continuous reading with ColorHCFR and start making your adjustments and notice how they affect the xyY values for each color. Once you start to get a feel for how to adjust them it should go pretty smooth, but it will definitely take some time.

Are x,y also multiples of my Y reading from 100% white?

ksbarnz

10-28-08, 05:02 PM

Are x,y also multiples of my Y reading from 100% white?

No, the x, and y values are each colors position (x and y coordinates) on the the CIE diagram. The numbers in the chart are what you trying to get close to. This is the industry standard for High Def (REC 709). The Y is the luminance for each color.

cid67

10-28-08, 09:10 PM

Has anybody figured out how to get the 835's gamma level to even out and still obtain over 30ftL?

It cant be done. this set has an auto iris that prevents this. just shoot for your target Ftl. range and forget about getting accurate gamma.

you should however at least consider getting the average gamma as close as possible while staying within 30 to 40 ftl.

njfoses

10-28-08, 09:54 PM

Hi-- I thought some of you might want to see the ISF calibration report.

Additional Calibration Notes

Perfect Color Tint
R 37 22
G 44 17
B 23 31
Y 34 31
C 38 40
M 40 18
Picture Mode Natural
Contrast 56
Brightness 17
Color 30
Tint 31
Sharpness 19
Color Temp Low
Video Noise Low
SharpEdge Off
DeepFieldImager Off

BTW-- Gray scale was adjusted in the service menu and the Bulb was set at the higher/brighter setting

It cant be done. this set has an auto iris that prevents this. just shoot for your target Ftl. range and forget about getting accurate gamma.

you should however at least consider getting the average gamma as close as possible while staying within 30 to 40 ftl.

The post above that has the pdf report, the gamma looks good to me until the spike at the end which im guessing is the auto iris. This is the closest ive seen with the 835. The others ive seen the gamma dips very low.

Deezul

10-28-08, 11:19 PM

Not really the TV, but trying to program it with my Harmony remote. I can't seem to figure out the correct delays if I want the input changed after the TV has been off for a while. I am always having to hit HELP on the Harmony remote to have it change to the correct input. Can someone who has a properly timed remote tell me their delays?

cid67

10-28-08, 11:46 PM

njfoses

10-29-08, 07:50 AM

clone1008

10-29-08, 09:19 AM

this is as good as i have been able to get it at 30 ftl.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=121577&d=1223513400

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=121578&d=1223513400

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=121576&d=1223513400

cid67,

Seeing as how I have the exact TV as you do...would you mind sharing your final user menu and service menu numbers so that I can use these as maybe a starting point or at least a reference point as I go through this process. I'm going on my third full day of this process. The learning curve for me has been very hard.

Ric

gtgray

10-29-08, 10:56 AM

I bought a 73785 at the beginning of the week. I can't believe these sets are so wacky out of box. This thing is Neon blue everywhere and I can't do anything with it in the user menu. Also the keystone/geometry correction how do you turn that off? It makes basic checkerboard test screens look like swirling messes at the side of the screens.

I spoke to Jeff Meier (Accu-Cal) on the phone today, he wasn't encouraging about Mistubishi's in general based on working on lots of them. His suggestiong really was to take it back and get a Samsung if I intent on a DLP. I have used Jeff in the past to calibrate my 65" HP DLP and the color was good out of the box and very accurate after calibration, and looked great. This Mits has me stumped. Jeff no longer is in the Houson are so I would most likely need another calibrator. Best Buy is offering ISF calibration but I am skeptical of what I would get..

This TV is completely in my opinion unusable out of the box, or with anything I can do with entering the Service Menu. I have no colorimeter and I don't really want to buy one and go through that learning curve.

Is there a single change in SM to tame the vicious blues?
Is there a single change in SM to turn of the geometry correction which obviously reduces the resoltuion on the TV and makes in unsuitable for HTPC duty?

seggers

10-29-08, 11:15 AM

gtgray

10-29-08, 12:19 PM

God, I gotta have bad eyes then.

I thought mine (73835) was pretty good, espeically after I turned down the torch mode stuff. Not quite as sharp as the Sony it replaced, but still pretty darn good.

I do plan on having it calibrated. I also plan to go through it with my BD DVE disc, once it has more than the current 16 hours on it.

Seggers

Wait till you put a test pattern on it. The keystone correction alone is a rez killer. That geometry correction should be defeatable in a user menu.

I will get my set calibrated on Wednesdat next week so it will need to be on pretty much constantly until then to get enough hours on it for calibration. If you read through this thread you will see all the comments on blue and the difficulty people have setting it up with what the user menu offers.

If the ISF calibrators can't get it looking like it should it goes back to BB. The price was nice but man is the color off.

Darin

10-29-08, 12:48 PM

Is there a single change in SM to tame the vicious blues?
Is there a single change in SM to turn of the geometry correction which obviously reduces the resoltuion on the TV and makes in unsuitable for HTPC duty?

I don't have a problem that *I* see with neon blues, but as far as turning off geometry correction, see this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14644567#post14644567).

ksbarnz

10-29-08, 01:00 PM

Wait till you put a test pattern on it. The keystone correction alone is a rez killer. That geometry correction should be defeatable in a user menu.

I will get my set calibrated on Wednesdat next week so it will need to be on pretty much constantly until then to get enough hours on it for calibration. If you read through this thread you will see all the comments on blue and the difficulty people have setting it up with what the user menu offers.

If the ISF calibrators can't get it looking like it should it goes back to BB. The price was nice but man is the color off.

You can definitely got your colors close to perfect with a combination of the service and user menu. The one color that you will have a problem with is blue. A few of us here on the forums have found that blue is under saturated and there is no way to increase the saturation. However, this is by no means a deal breaker. After calibration your TV will look 100 times better than the OOB settings.

gtgray

10-29-08, 03:02 PM

You can definitely got your colors close to perfect with a combination of the service and user menu. The one color that you will have a problem with is blue. A few of us here on the forums have found that blue is under saturated and there is no way to increase the saturation. However, this is by no means a deal breaker. After calibration your TV will look 100 times better than the OOB settings.

In the meantime do you know how to turn off the geometry correction? I would really like to full resolution of the display not just in the center of the display.

cid67

10-29-08, 07:42 PM

In the meantime do you know how to turn off the geometry correction? I would really like to full resolution of the display not just in the center of the display.

its been posted by myself as well as others many times in this thread do a search and you will find what you seek.

clone1008

10-29-08, 11:55 PM

cid67,

Seeing as how I have the exact TV as you do...would you mind sharing your final user menu and service menu numbers so that I can use these as maybe a starting point or at least a reference point as I go through this process. I'm going on my third full day of this process. The learning curve for me has been very hard.

Ric

cid67

10-30-08, 12:36 AM

gtgray

10-30-08, 12:47 AM

its been posted by myself as well as others many times in this thread do a search and you will find what you seek.

Thank you I did see that information immediately after that last post. Thanks!

clone1008

10-30-08, 07:42 AM

ok here the short and sweet version. although it may not be of much help.

wd-65835

lamp mode= standard
picture mode= natural
color temp= low
contrast= 41
brightness= 29
color= 44
tint=33
sharpness= 29

perfectcolor / perfectint
30 / 33
30 / 28
34 / 36
39 / 39
34 / 31
25 / 16

all other user menu picture settings are off.
============================================================ =====
service menu
I only listed settings I changed. all others are defaults.
1= 3
65515
5= 1024
6= 1122
7= 1048
30= 118
34= 118
40= 107
46= 111
49= 115
50= 110
55= 10
56= 65533
57= 100

don't forget to go into the manual keystone correction, press enter and then exit back out to get 1:1 pixel. you will see the option if you press 0 in the service menu.

this is actualy a little bit updated from my previous settings. I got better greyscale with this setting.

my lamp is over 1000 hours for sure so you may need to lower contrast to get 30 ftl. on your set.

everyone take note of these worthless settings as this is likely the only time I am going to share them.

cid67,

Thank you so much for sharing this info. I have studied these threads to the point where I think I have them memorized. It's very interesting to see that some of your info is updated because I have been going by some of your earlier posts. Also maybe you can answer this question...how come on some shows it looks as if the top middle of my screen in bowing in slighlty or dipping in the middle slightly. It looks as if I were to take a string and run it along the top the picture would dip below it. Any suggestions?

Ric

Ric

seggers

10-30-08, 08:02 AM

everyone take note of these worthless settings as this is likely the only time I am going to share them.

I'd hope that they're not worthless....

I'm going to give them a go on my 73835 tonight. Might make things a little better.

Seggers

swak

10-30-08, 09:55 AM

I'd hope that they're not worthless....

I'm going to give them a go on my 73835 tonight. Might make things a little better.

Seggers

Seggers,

You may want to also try the settings in this thread posted by borg.cube (he had two posts 101 and a followup I don't see) which showed his settings on a 73835 since you have this same model. I am using them now on my 73835 and I think they look pretty darn good. I just got a meter and the CalMan software but I still need a blu-ray player (planning to get one on Black Friday)to compare settings, it's hard to imagine that I will get much if any of an improvement.

cid67

10-30-08, 09:59 AM

how come on some shows it looks as if the top middle of my screen in bowing in slighlty or dipping in the middle slightly. It looks as if I were to take a string and run it along the top the picture would dip below it. Any suggestions?

this effect is caused as a byproduct of Mitsubishi trying to constantly decrease the depth of the cabinet. the thinner the cabinet the more theses sets tend to distort. blame it on the consumer who has to have everything flat. to them, I say, what do you want, a flat tv or a good picture!!! however I also blame mitsubishi for sacrificing Picture geometry to make there sets thinner for these people. look, if you want flat, get a lcd. dont go buying a rear projection if you want a flat tv. mitsubishi does try to help this situation with there pincushion adjustments but this just kills the 1:1 pixel relationship between the tv and the content plus, it only helps to eliminate the distortion. its a sacrifice. its your call if you want it on or off. if this really bugs you than you may just have to consider a different tv.

seggers

10-30-08, 11:18 AM

Seggers,

You may want to also try the settings in this thread posted by borg.cube (he had two posts 101 and a followup I don't see) which showed his settings on a 73835 since you have this same model. I am using them now on my 73835 and I think they look pretty darn good. I just got a meter and the CalMan software but I still need a blu-ray player (planning to get one on Black Friday)to compare settings, it's hard to imagine that I will get much if any of an improvement.

Wow, that PDF is so full of stuff that I don't understand that it's not funny. I liked the way cid67 has his laid out. Now that I can follow.

I also scanned through after 101 and apart from one other, I see no more Borg Cubes (maybe Picard finally got him...). I wonder if the DB crash took out further posts?

Seggers

swak

10-30-08, 12:37 PM

Seggers,

You may want to also try the settings in this thread posted by borg.cube (he had two posts 101 and a followup I don't see) which showed his settings on a 73835 since you have this same model. I am using them now on my 73835 and I think they look pretty darn good. I just got a meter and the CalMan software but I still need a blu-ray player (planning to get one on Black Friday)to compare settings, it's hard to imagine that I will get much if any of an improvement.

Seggers,

Just found his other post, it is #46, I started with those and then saw post #101. You can use your perfect color and tint to enter the settings. Also, the last page of the pdf in post 101 shows what was changed from the initial settings. Thanks borg.cube!

smiddleton5401

10-30-08, 08:19 PM

Could you please share your "Service Menu" settings? i.e. ggl, grl, gbl, etc. I also have the WD-73835.

smiddleton5401

10-30-08, 08:22 PM

Hi-- Tom H.--my ISF-calibrator came back after studying the new service menu on the MITS Diamonds and did some more color saturation tweaking (not just gray scale) within the the service menu.

I have an updated ISF calibration report for my WD-73835

Could you please share your "Service Menu" settings, i.e. ggl, grl, gbl, etc.

I also have the WD-73835

seggers

10-31-08, 07:59 AM

Could you please share your "Service Menu" settings, i.e. ggl, grl, gbl, etc.

I also have the WD-73835

See 298, it mentions the posts that Borg Cube has his settings in.....

I tried cid67's last night. Man I gotta have bad eyes as I don't really see much difference. Although I had the Weather channel on for a while and our town name seemed to be dancing (flckering) on the screen.

I think I'll give Borg's setting a whirl next.

Seggers

cid67

10-31-08, 09:36 AM

like I said. other peoples settings are largely worthless.

swak

10-31-08, 12:21 PM

like I said. other peoples settings are largely worthless.

I am not disagreeing with you but my theory is they may be pretty darn close if you have the same exact models. You wouldn't tune up a corvette with specs from a camaro but from another corvette same year and model.

seggers

10-31-08, 01:30 PM

I am not disagreeing with you but my theory is they may be pretty darn close if you have the same exact models. You wouldn't tune up a corvette with specs from a camaro but from another corvette same year and model.

Not to be more than a little nitpicky, I used the 65835 settings, not the 73736 posted in post #1.

Seggers

swak

10-31-08, 02:00 PM

Seggers, I will be very interested to see what you think after you try borg.cubes professional calibration settings since those are for a 73835. My theory says copying someones elses setting may only work on the exact same set. When I get a blu-ray player I will try to calibrate mine with the meter and Calman bundle I just got (then of course the argument will be on diferent calibration equipment, and I choose what I like best). Also it would be very interesting if anyone else has had there 73835 proessionally calibrated and would post their settings to compare with those borg posted.

seggers

10-31-08, 02:03 PM

Seggers, I will be very interested to see what you think after you try borg.cubes professional calibration settings since those are for a 73835. My theory says copying someones elses setting may only work on the exact same set. When I get a blu-ray player I will try to calibrate mine with the meter and Calman bundle I just got (then of course the argument will be on diferent calibration equipment, and I choose what I like best). Also it would be very interesting if anyone else has had ther 73835 proessionally calibrated would post their setting to compare with those borg posted.

The TV turned 20 hours last night, so I have a few to wait yet before I can book the pro job.

Once it's been calibrated, I'll be more than happy to post it here.

BTW, anyone know how to check the actual bulb hours?

Seggers

swak

10-31-08, 02:12 PM

BTW, anyone know how to check the actual bulb hours?

Seggers

I wouldn't be a bit surprized if our sets could tell us that and more, what we really need is a service manual that told us all of the service menu features. Anyone have instructions for the service menu?

vandu

10-31-08, 02:20 PM

btw, anyone know how to check the actual bulb hours?

Seggers

menu2470

swak

10-31-08, 02:27 PM

menu2470

Vandu,

Have you seen a list of menu features, what are some others? Thanks.

smiddleton5401

10-31-08, 03:14 PM

The TV turned 20 hours last night, so I have a few to wait yet before I can book the pro job.

Once it's been calibrated, I'll be more than happy to post it here.

BTW, anyone know how to check the actual bulb hours?

Seggers

I'd love to see the settings you come up with, Thanks :)

vandu

10-31-08, 04:03 PM

Vandu,

Have you seen a list of menu features, what are some others? Thanks.

Sorry. I only know how to get into the service menu and how to check the hours of use.

clone1008

11-01-08, 08:59 AM

vandu

11-01-08, 09:33 AM

clone1008,
You have an excellent start and I’m sure the picture looks much better. When I did my first calibration a couple months back I ignored the delta E values for the primary and secondary colors. It appears you did too. You will see added improvement if you work on those values. The table for your primaries and secondaries does not show a measurement for white. You need this value to calculate the correct luminance of the colors. The table below shows the correct color values.
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------x--------y--------Y
R---0.6400--0.3300---0.2126
G---0.3000--0.6000---0.7152
B---0.1500--0.0600---0.0722
Y---0.4193--0.5053---0.9278
C---0.2246--0.3287---0.7874
M---0.3209--0.1542---0.2848
W---0.3127--0.329----1.0
Once you have a value for white you can calculate the correct Y value (luminance) for each color.
Red should be 0.2126 the Y value of white.
Green should be 0.7152 the Y value of white and so on for each color

ksbarnz

11-01-08, 09:39 AM

Finally after spending a few days (big learning curve for me) tinkering with my 65835 I finally have it done. All I can say is WOW!!! What a difference it makes. I watched "I Am Legend" (Blu-Ray) last night and everything looked awesome. Like cid67 mentioned, his setting were nowhere near mine. I learned if you want it done perfect you just have to spend some time on your own set. Anyway here is my final calibration, if any of the pros here have any more suggestions after looking at it, please don't hesitate to give some more advice.

Your grayscale looks good. Your primary and secondary colors Y values seem to be a bit off. Here are some suggestions:

Red: xy looks good but Luminance (Y) is really low. Based on your White reading of 140 you should try to get your Y to 30.

Green: xy looks good, Y really low. You need to be at 100.

Blue: Y is low, need to be at 10

Yellow: Yellow looks good

Cyan: Y is low, needs to be at 110

Magenta: Y is low, needs to be at 40.

Overall your xy coordinates look good for each color, however the luminance for each, except for yellow, is very very low. Use perfect color to bring each of these up. You are also looking to get dE for each color under 3. Bumping perfect color up for each of these should get your close.

clone1008

11-01-08, 10:56 AM

ksbarnz

11-01-08, 11:10 AM

The reason my Y values are so low is that every time I increased the value I could not get me x,y values even close. I was going by the CIE diagram and trying to get my little dot on their little dot so it all lined up. Saturation will go no higher than 128 to move it. What am I doing wrong?

Right now, I'd try to get your Y values close and then worry about your xy. Looking at your values luminance is very low, especially red. Colors, for me at least, were the hardest to calibrate. It will take going in and out of the service menu and the user menu many times to get it right. Can you bump your Y to the values I suggested and then take a reading and post it to show how it is affecting your xy values? I'll offer advice if I can once you post it.

clone1008

11-01-08, 12:38 PM

Right now, I'd try to get your Y values close and then worry about your xy. Looking at your values luminance is very low, especially red. Colors, for me at least, were the hardest to calibrate. It will take going in and out of the service menu and the user menu many times to get it right. Can you bump your Y to the values I suggested and then take a reading and post it to show how it is affecting your xy values? I'll offer advice if I can once you post it.

Here you go...I bumped up Y and fiddled a bit with x,y but can't seem to do much more. What do you suggest?

vandu

11-01-08, 01:03 PM

clone1008,
From your earlier post it doesen’t look like you are adjusting gain and saturation from the service menu. Items 30 through 47 control gain, saturation and hue for all six colors.
G(RGBCMY)L are for gain
S(RGBCMY)L are for saturation
H(RGBCMY)L are for hue
Try increasing S(RGBCMY)L to increase the saturation of the colors that are weak.
Try further adjusting G(RGBCMY)L to fine tune your luminance.
You won’t get them perfect but try for the best.

clone1008

11-01-08, 01:10 PM

vandu

11-01-08, 01:21 PM

No I have been using PerfectColor and PerfectTint which I thought was the same as G(RGBCMY)L & H(RGBCMY)L.

I also started out by using only perfect color and perfect tint. I ended up having to use the service menu controls.

clone1008

11-01-08, 01:50 PM

I also started out by using only perfect color and perfect tint. I ended up having to use the service menu controls.

How can I not use PerfectColor for example when Red is 20 and needs to be 30 in my case. G(RGBCMY)L will not let me go any higher?

clone1008

11-01-08, 02:29 PM

Now I really messed something up...GGL says 472 and the only way I can move it is higher in numbers. As a matter of fact a lot of my numbers just shot up.

6. GRL 33315
7. GBL 50224

What the heck and also I can't do a reset.

vandu

11-01-08, 03:14 PM

What did you change that caused the numbers to increase?

clone1008

11-01-08, 03:20 PM

What did you change that caused the numbers to increase?

I don't know...then I hit reset on the front panel and now everything is black and white.

vandu

11-01-08, 03:31 PM

The only items you need to change in the service menu are:
5,6 &7 for gray scale high end
51, 52 & 53 gray scale low end
30-47 color luminance, saturation & hue
It sounds like you may have changed something like the index delay. I've never done a reset so I can't help you there.
Did you record your original readings?

clone1008

11-01-08, 04:16 PM

vandu

11-01-08, 05:06 PM

My CCA is set at 1. I believe that is the only value I’ve ever seen posted.
Your in unknown territory if you’re working with 0.

clone1008

11-01-08, 05:33 PM

vandu,

Color is back with CCA at 1. Unfortunately resetting isn't taking me back to factory defaults. I'm having to sit with my remote and go backwards from these high numbers to defaults of 1024. It's going to take forever.

vandu

11-01-08, 05:44 PM

I don’t envy your position. Do you think you accidentally changed the CCA setting, which caused the problem in the first place?

clone1008

11-01-08, 05:55 PM

I don’t envy your position. Do you think you accidentally changed the CCA setting, which caused the problem in the first place?

Maybe...it seems like I might have also saved these settings as my backup settings. Also I notice when I get to about 32000 on GRL it goes back to over 40000. I wonder how I can load my backup default settings.

cid67

11-02-08, 12:16 AM

ok first. don't just start adjusting things if you dont know exactly what it does.

here is something to be aware of. if you adjust a setting in the service menu to its max or minimum setting it can actually stay at that position even if you do a reset on the service menu. the number will look like the default setting but the effect wil be what it was at its max or min setting. the way to fix this is to go to the setting in question and make an adjustment. this will unstick the setting. if you set something so that you cant see the menu any longer you could have a problem seeing what adjustments need to be made. fortunately it seems Mitsubishi thought of this and took precautions to make sure you wouldn't do this with the service menu but keep in mind I just said it SEEMS that way.

go ahead and reset the service menu form the defaults and then go through all the settings you adjusted previously and move it one number until you find the problem setting.

keep in mind that many setting will jump to a very high number once you go below zero. going back up wil bring you back to zero.

keep the cca on. this turns on and off the color management system in the service menu. the color management system is the gain, saturation, and hue for all six of your colors. with cca off this stuff is not adjustable. Ill help you through all this but you will have to be as specific as possible with the steps you have taken and plan to take.

this problem you are having is just a lesson to you and everyone that you should not go into the service menu unless you are willing to take the risk of messing up you tv and taking full responsibility for it. you can and people do seriously mess up there tvs in the service menu. proceed with caution because your TV depends upon it.

clone1008

11-02-08, 07:48 AM

cid67,

Thanks for the reply. At this point I'm not sure what I have messed with and what I haven't, so last night I stopped. It would probably be easier if I could speak with you via phone. Could you pm me your number and I will call you and you can try and walk me through this?

Ric

cid67

11-02-08, 10:47 AM

clone1008

11-02-08, 11:15 AM

well I'm afraid the phone is out of the question. I exist only on the net.

press menu 2457

press 0

select restorealignment and white balance from backup.

press enter

do the same thing for load index delay from backup, as well.

tell me what that does for you and we will move on from there.

Ok...I did that and it goes to black and white. Here are the numbers that are off. If you go back a couple of posts you can get my calibration file and see what my settings were before they went screwy. It wasn't until vandu told me to use the service menu (not blaming him by the way...lol) instead of PerfectColor and PerfectTint that things went wrong. What I did was reset PerfectColor and PerfectTint to defaults 31/31. I then started adjusting my G(RGBCMY)L H(RGBCMY)L settings. Somewhere during this process I noticed that my numbers got real high.

GGL 1008...this number was real high but I moved it to this number and now it stays when I hit reset
GRL 33314
GBL 50224
CCA 1
HRL 145
GGL 472...this number I noticed yesterday when I go up and back to 128 gives me color but everything is still way off
SGL 129
HGL 22
HBL 12
BMR 65503
BMB 65502
OFG 65535
OFR 36
OFB 30

All other settings are at default.

K_Thompson

11-02-08, 12:58 PM

seggers

11-02-08, 01:44 PM

My 73835 was delivered yesterday afternoon. The first thing I did was enter borg.cube's settings from his pro calibration. I have to say that the TV looks pretty good with these settings. I'm still going to have a pro calibration done as I've done nothing with service menu settings and I'm not brave enough to attempt to. Now if only there were tweaks to make the internal speakers sound better. These things are total crap.

For the speakers, the best bet is a decent AVR and 7.1... :p

Seggers

cid67

11-02-08, 04:35 PM

Ok...I did that and it goes to black and white. Here are the numbers that are off. If you go back a couple of posts you can get my calibration file and see what my settings were before they went screwy. It wasn't until vandu told me to use the service menu (not blaming him by the way...lol) instead of PerfectColor and PerfectTint that things went wrong. What I did was reset PerfectColor and PerfectTint to defaults 31/31. I then started adjusting my G(RGBCMY)L H(RGBCMY)L settings. Somewhere during this process I noticed that my numbers got real high.

GGL 1008...this number was real high but I moved it to this number and now it stays when I hit reset
GRL 33314
GBL 50224
CCA 1
HRL 145
GGL 472...this number I noticed yesterday when I go up and back to 128 gives me color but everything is still way off
SGL 129

HGL 22
HBL 12
BMR 65503
BMB 65502
OFG 65535
OFR 36
OFB 30

All other settings are at default.

ok you want to move your GRL and GBL down as they are way to high. a good setting for now is 1024. make sure you press enter after adjusting each setting so the setting will stay.

set parameters numbered 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, 42, 43, 45, 46, to 128
remember to press enter after adjusting each parameter adjustment.

set parameters numbered 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, to 0
remember to press enter after each parameter adjustment.

set parameters 51, 52, 53 to 0
you should go up in values to get there by the looks of it.

set parameters to 54, 55, 56 to 0

all other settings I did not mention, you should move one number value aether up or down and than back to its original position unless you are absolutely sure you didn't ever touch it. remember to press enter after each adjustment. now exit out of the service menu and tell me what the picture looks like.

if it went well the overall shade of the picture will likely look a little bit blue but not bad.

keep in mind that if a parameter will not let you adjust it as far as you need it to go to get to your numerical destination in one direction you need to go in the other direction.

it does seem that you have overwritten your default settings that where saved in the service menu backup. did you wright down the numerical data for your settings when everything was set to there defaults? I am assuming you didn't.

tell me as best you can what the picture looks like.

clone1008

11-02-08, 06:49 PM

Cid67,
I will have to give this a try next weekend as I had to get on a plane for business. I did make notes on all my default settings for Natural Low Temp. The other thing I have noticed is that all the others are also black and white (Natural High Temp, Bright and Brilliant) and their settings have some real high numbers also and I did not make note of their default settings. I have a hard time believing that I did all this by adjusting one number too far.

cid67

11-02-08, 08:29 PM

the high and brilliant settings will only use different settings for a few of the service menu parameters. all the other settings will be shared. if you have the original settings you should plug those in and any parameters that are already at there defaults but that you have previously adjusted you should adjust one value up or down and than back to the default position and see where that gets you.

clone1008

11-03-08, 06:34 AM

cid67,

On my GRL setting that is real high I noticed that it will only go so far down and then it rolls over to a high number again. It seemed like somewhere around 32000 it goes back up to somewhere around 42000. Also should I be going down or should I go up and roll around to 0 and then keep going? It's going to take a long time to get these numbers back to default. Also do you think this is fixable or should I claim ignorance and have someone come fix it under warranty while I'm out of town?

cid67

11-03-08, 08:58 AM

the problem with having someone come fix it is, playing with your service menu may void your warranty. if you have to have someone come fix it don't tell them you where ever in the service menu. you need to get those numbers to where they where one way or another. if you cant do it by going in one direction go in the other.it sounds like you need to go up. I'm hoping that will get you there.I have extesive experience with these service menus but I have never heard of this problem before. I really wish you knew what caused this to accure so others could avoid it and also so we had a means to perhaps correct it. I am guessing there is a remote control button that may have caused it but you don't want to just start pressing remote buttons in the service menu if you dont know what they are.

the only other advice I can realy give you is to try talking to a forum member known as Icaillo http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=28481

He knows quite abit about the Mitsubishi service menu and may have some information I don't.

smiddleton5401

11-03-08, 09:07 AM

My 73835 was delivered yesterday afternoon. The first thing I did was enter borg.cube's settings from his pro calibration. I have to say that the TV looks pretty good with these settings. I'm still going to have a pro calibration done as I've done nothing with service menu settings and I'm not brave enough to attempt to. Now if only there were tweaks to make the internal speakers sound better. These things are total crap.

I agree, is everone else completely let down by how bad the speakers sound on the WD-73835? They sound worse than my 10 year old Mits. 65" that it replaced. They are so bad that I thought they were broken. :confused:

seggers

11-03-08, 09:19 AM

I agree, is everone else completely let down by how bad the speakers sound on the WD-73835? They sound worse than my 10 year old Mits. 65" that it replaced. They are so bad that I thought they were broken. :confused:

Actually, I've never tried the speakers. I don't usually expect TV speakers to be any good, so my expectations are usually met.

I have an Onkyo 805 HDMI AVR and a Wharfedale 7.1 setup. TV speakers don't enter the room... :D

Seggers

Darin

11-03-08, 09:27 AM

Actually, I've never tried the speakers.

Neither have I. I would think most who buy a TV of this calibre would want higher quality audio than any TV could provide. In fact, for my "main" tv, I've never used TV speakers, for as long as I've been living by myself (mid 80s). I have in the past for ancillary TVs (like in the kitchen), but even those now have separate systems for audio.

smiddleton5401

11-03-08, 01:48 PM

Neither have I. I would think most who buy a TV of this calibre would want higher quality audio than any TV could provide. In fact, for my "main" tv, I've never used TV speakers, for as long as I've been living by myself (mid 80s). I have in the past for ancillary TVs (like in the kitchen), but even those now have separate systems for audio.

Most of us have other audio systems. I also do, but sometimes I just need the basic speakers for the weather report, quick news, etc. When you buy their top of the line TV, you would think they would be at least as good as the ones they made 10+ years ago.

The speakers in the little LCD for my bathroom are better than these. :(

cid67

11-03-08, 06:27 PM

I agree theses speakers are the worst sounding thing I have ever heard in any tv period.

its a shame. the speakers in last years wd-65732 werent near as bad.

K_Thompson

11-03-08, 07:49 PM

I agree, is everone else completely let down by how bad the speakers sound on the WD-73835? They sound worse than my 10 year old Mits. 65" that it replaced. They are so bad that I thought they were broken. :confused:

My 73835 also replaced an older Mits 65" RPTV. The speakers were built into the base of the TV below the screen and they actually sounded quite decent for what they were.

K_Thompson

11-03-08, 07:53 PM

For the speakers, the best bet is a decent AVR and 7.1... :p

Seggers

I have a very nice surround sound system thank you very much, but I don't want my wife to have to turn on all that extra equipment just to watch Judge Judy or some other such show that would benefit little from it.

Deezul

11-03-08, 08:11 PM

I agree theses speakers are the worst sounding thing I have ever heard in any tv period.

Be glad you've never heard an HP plasma. THAT TV has crappy speakers. I'm quite happy with the ones in my 65735. I just can't put my AVR on all the time, with a wife right upstairs watching TV on said plasma, and a 6 month old child directly overhead in her bedroom.

seggers

11-04-08, 08:11 AM

I have a very nice surround sound system thank you very much, but I don't want my wife to have to turn on all that extra equipment just to watch Judge Judy or some other such show that would benefit little from it.

Good to hear on the surround system.

On the turning on of said system, I found making a simple guide helped out with mine. For the cable box, press x etc. Mind you, the TV, being hooked to a HDMI AVR, only ever needs to be switched on.

Seggers

Darin

11-04-08, 08:56 AM

I don't want my wife to have to turn on all that extra equipment just to watch Judge Judy ...

That's what a good programmable remote is for. :) At least in my situation, everything routes through the AVR, so it needs to be on anyway.

SportsFreak 2010

11-04-08, 10:42 AM

seggers

11-04-08, 10:43 AM

OK guys, I just got my 736 about a week ago and i know it is a 1080p TV but every time I see the input in the box when I change the channel it says 1080i or lower. Is this user error or my cable provider or anything I can fix? Thanks in advance and sorry for my lack of knowledge.

Unless I'm mistaken (today is turning out to be a real bad day for me), any broadcast media is 1080i.

For 1080p, you're going to need to connect either a BD or HD DVD player, or any other sort of player that can output 1080p (PC?).

Seggers

SportsFreak 2010

11-04-08, 10:50 AM

OK so the highest quality i can get through cable is 1080i and if I am getting lower that that it is because of the feed through the provider/channel and there is nothing I can do to improve it correct?

Darin

11-04-08, 10:58 AM

The TV shows the resolution of the input. It will internally upscale everything to 1080p. For a 1080i source, you shouldn't be missing much, if anything. Assuming the source was encoded correctly, and the de-interlacer in the TV does it's job correctly, 1080i can be deinterlaced to 1080p with no loss in quality. For everything else, it's just an issue of the source. If the source is 720p, for exampe, the TV will upscale it, but obviously scaling is just an approximation. You can't re-create detail that wasn't originally captured.

SportsFreak 2010

11-04-08, 11:12 AM

Ok thanks for the help guys, just making sure I'm getting the best I can out of my investment.

K_Thompson

11-04-08, 01:15 PM

That's what a good programmable remote is for.

Got one of those too - URC MX-700. But considering that I just got the TV 3 days ago and picked up a new HD cable box/DVR last night, I just haven't had time to program the remote for all the new equipment and set up macros to make it easy for her to use. Maybe one day soon.

dougmcbride

11-06-08, 05:42 PM

ksbarnz - you have a PM.

Thanks

clone1008

11-08-08, 10:49 AM

ok you want to move your GRL and GBL down as they are way to high. a good setting for now is 1024. make sure you press enter after adjusting each setting so the setting will stay.

set parameters numbered 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, 42, 43, 45, 46, to 128
remember to press enter after adjusting each parameter adjustment.

set parameters numbered 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, to 0
remember to press enter after each parameter adjustment.

set parameters 51, 52, 53 to 0
you should go up in values to get there by the looks of it.

set parameters to 54, 55, 56 to 0

all other settings I did not mention, you should move one number value aether up or down and than back to its original position unless you are absolutely sure you didn't ever touch it. remember to press enter after each adjustment. now exit out of the service menu and tell me what the picture looks like.

if it went well the overall shade of the picture will likely look a little bit blue but not bad.

keep in mind that if a parameter will not let you adjust it as far as you need it to go to get to your numerical destination in one direction you need to go in the other direction.

it does seem that you have overwritten your default settings that where saved in the service menu backup. did you wright down the numerical data for your settings when everything was set to there defaults? I am assuming you didn't.

tell me as best you can what the picture looks like.

cid67,

Here's an update, I'm back in town...all the settings you gave me are back to default except:

6. GRL 33315
7. GBL 50224

these two are still high. I cannot get them to 1024 no matter which direction I go. If I go down they roll back to these numbers. If I go up they get a point where I can't go any higher. Now what?

manny1025

11-08-08, 11:22 AM

i am planning on getting a 65736. if i calibrate the tint thru service menu using my bluray player than how am i going to get my cable calibrated to the right tint since there isn't any perfect tint on this tv set?

manny1025

11-08-08, 11:25 AM

all of the service menu setting that are changed are for all settings?
if i make changes on the tint side can i changed it on another input without affecting the other inputs

manny1025

11-10-08, 10:53 AM

I just purchased the 65736. I noticed that the sevice menu settings for both high and low temp are the exact same settings exept for g(rgb)wl. Can this be the settings to adjust the grayscale? All other settings are exact same numbers for both high and low.

dougmcbride

11-20-08, 11:26 AM

ksbarnz - you have another PM.

Thanks again!

phrueben

11-21-08, 01:30 AM

Hey everyone, I have been reading the posts here for about a week while I waited for my 835 to be delivered, just got delivered today, about 12 hrs ago,, and so far I'm satisfied,,I have been playing with the settings trying my own and some that I read on this forum,,the only complaint that I have so far is that its blurry when there is movement, is this normal? can it be fixed? now I tell you this, the picture is awesome, I had before a front projector Infocus IN 72 DLP, and I think this beats it, even when the size is a little bit smaller than the picture I would get from my projector I love the fact that I don't need a dark room anymore to watch tv, I got my 835 hooked to a Directv HD receiver and a PS3, so far so good,,just waiting for some hdmi cables I ordered, got the cheap ones, maybe later I'll invest on the expensive ones to see if it makes a difference in picture quality,,well,,,I guess the smooth 120 does not really work like I read in previous posts, I'll keep trying differents set ups and maybe later I'll get one of those DVDs and calibrators that you guys speak so much of,,

Thanks,, any comments or suggestions pls reply

nc88keyz

11-21-08, 03:26 PM

+1 for Mitsubishi Quality Control.

Just recieved an 73835 on warranty replacement, delivered to my hous.

e, less 1/4 day of pay to boot to accept delivery

The top frame is a cresent, its been knocked so bad, The screen bubbles in and then bubbles out.

Great stuff,

On line with MITS now!!!!

iwont even turn this crap on.

what luck we have

73833 was replaced for bad flickiering described as random defect, no fix afer two repairs

seggers

11-21-08, 03:30 PM

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Just to add a slight counter to this, my 73835 was delivered earlier than expected, the guy helped me into the house and it was perfect (except the colours.... :)) straight out of the box.

The wife and I are steadily building the hours ready for the calibration.

Seggers

dougmcbride

11-21-08, 04:47 PM

nc88keyz

11-21-08, 06:43 PM

No issues with the box, it wasnt delivery companies fault.

As much issues as Ive had with mits products, they first offered to repair with new bezel and screen ordered just in case.

Then when screen couldnt make it before thanksgiviing holiday, they ponied up for a replacement, but then said it could be 2-3 weeks.

I replied with thank you for the gesture, but Im not very fond of having 2 much less three of these 73" tvs in my living room during the holidays. They went back to the drawing board.

Meanwhile i got creative with a credit card and spatula and was able to flex the bezel on top and pop the screen back onto the track, with that adjustment, it appears that the geometry is better on this set than my original 73833.

I called mits back and told them we had solved the issue and I was leaving it at that. I did ask for a free LCD for the bedroom, since i saved then probally 1500 on an RMA refurb to the company. Can hurt to ask.

In all honesty, a case manager by name or Rico, has followed up with my diligently with every step and was really bummed to hear about the complications. Anyways, there is no visable line at all where the prism was off on projection.

Now...if the service company come and get the 833 for scraps that would be great.

FYI,

somone asked differences in 833 and 835 a while back.

No Firewire, better brightness with TI4 chip.
Also, the serial port has been removed, and perhaps my imagination but didnt the 833 have split screen PIP. Its still on the r/c but it says not for this model.

I could have sworn it did, and while i love that feature if it comes to the 835 with its improvements in picture quality and brightness, as well as the mysterious flicker issue not present ( a biotch for watching movies) I say 73835 any day of the week.

the 73835 also appears to switch inputs much quicker than the 73833. Its also nice they added the noise filter to the quick video settings menu instead of only through the menu gui.

I will calibrate later on.

bearcat2002

11-22-08, 06:47 AM

Yes, you are correct, the 73833 has the split screen PIP...and I love this feature. I have no idea why they would delete it.

nc88keyz

11-22-08, 08:22 AM

well seeing how well i remembered it , i guess i didnt use it. Its deletion and PIP altogether was a cost saving measure im sure. seeing how techs in our area wont even service these tvs in the house, i accept the defeat there with the 835 for the trade off of much much better geometry, I was suprised considering the screen issue with the bezel.

besides cant to pip with two hdmi anyways. and everything runs through avr. I suppose i could have taken one the hr20s and ran it component for that very purpose or the xbox 360 since it is pre hdmi, but none the less....I accept.

doubtingtom

11-22-08, 12:32 PM

dougmcbride

11-22-08, 06:33 PM

Anyone know .... with some certainty .... what new Mits 73C8 is ?? (just showed up at local Costco). Usually these 'Costco Only' models are almost clones of other popular verions in different sales channels. $1,999. with stand.

TB

Check out the Mits web site - it shows the specs on the C Series. A quick glance it looks like a 735 minus a couple of features.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com

doubtingtom

11-22-08, 07:21 PM

Check out the Mits web site - it shows the specs on the C Series. A quick glance it looks like a 735 minus a couple of features.
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com
----------------------------------------------
Many thanks for the post !! I failed to click on the "... More" area and missed the added "C" Model. Feel much better now having just added the WD 65736 !!!

Regards,
TB

Darrenph1

11-24-08, 02:54 PM

Picked one up at costco (73C8) over the weekend. Looks really nice but wondering how much i am missing not having the:
Deep Field Imager
Deep Color
x.v. Color
that the 73736 has.

Daniel Murray

11-25-08, 10:50 PM

Hi I have a WD-62835 and was looking around the service menu 2457 and a F1 for shutter on or off. What is this and sould it be set on or off?

vandu

11-26-08, 09:34 AM

Hi I have a WD-62835 and was looking around the service menu 2457 and a F1 for shutter on or off. What is this and sould it be set on or off?

I haven’t been able to see or measure any difference with it on or off. I’ve got a 73835.

King_David

11-26-08, 12:36 PM

Does the Mitsubishi WD-73835 do 1080P/24?

Thanks.

vandu

11-26-08, 01:33 PM

Does the Mitsubishi WD-73835 do 1080P/24?

Thanks.

Yes it does accept 1080P/24 but it does not do 5:5 pulldown.

Daniel Murray

11-26-08, 05:33 PM

OK I went into my keytones on my 65835 and saw that the yellow, green, white, lines look like a wave. I all so had the red lines starting to show up in spots. So I did get the lines straight. Is it ok that I had to move the pointer down past the yellow line in some spots so I could get the white line straight? If I did something wrong let me know please?
I check out my wd-52628 just to see and all the lines are good and straight right from Mitsubishi.
Thank you,
Daniel

jdk1962

11-27-08, 05:16 AM

I seem to be having the exact same problem as clone1008. I have had my WD-65736 for about 6 months now and have been in the service menu numerous times. I was in there tonight tweaking a few settings. I hit enter to save my settings and then hit exit to exit out of the service menu. As soon as I hit exit, everything on the screen turned green. When I went back into the service menu to check, my GGL, GRL, and GBL settings were all in the range of 30,000 to 50,000. They were originally around 1024. I have tried to adjust them down and up to get them back to where they were, but when they get to a certain number, they roll back around. I can't get anything below 30,000. I don't know what to do. The interesting thing is that when the number rolls back around, the color stays the same. For example, I was adjusting the GGL down. When it reached 49,000, it rolled back to 52,000. But the green level stayed the same.

vandu

11-27-08, 01:09 PM

jdk1962, Did you keep a record of what you changed?

CHASLX200

11-27-08, 01:38 PM

They have a sale on the Mits 65" 735 this weekend here for only $1200. I am tempted to buy one at that price.

dougmcbride

11-27-08, 03:01 PM

jdk1962

11-27-08, 03:34 PM

The only settings I had changed before everything went screwy was HRL and HCL. I moved HRL from 18 to 20 and HCL from 30 back to 0. After about 4 hours of tweaking today, I have the picture looking just about as good as it was before, but the GGL, GRL, and GBL are still way off. They seem to be working OK, its just the numbers that are off. I tried the restore from backup several times, but it does not seem to do anything. It never changes any of the numbers. Here are my current settings:

5 GGL 50150
6 GRL 33800
7 GBL 17500
8 CCA 1
32 HRL 18
35 HGL 20
38 HBL 12
41 HCL 30
44 HML 90
57 CMG 150
58 CMR 150
59 CMB 150

Everything else is at the default fatory setting. I also have a question for those of you who have the movie Hancock. Does this movie have a very strong blue & green tint to the picture, or are my settings still off. All of the other movies I have viewed look good except this one.

dougmcbride

11-28-08, 01:25 PM

jdk1962

11-28-08, 03:44 PM

clone1008

11-28-08, 07:09 PM

So far I have only been using GGL, GRL, and GBL to adjust my gray scale and just eyeballing it. I recently picked up an eye-one, but have not had time to sit down and try to figure it out yet. Today I tried restore from backup again and it did change the numbers. Everything was set back to factory default except for GGL, GRL, and GBL. Here are the values after reset:

5 GGL 49900
6 GRL 33600
7 GBL 17000

The original factory default for all three used to be 1024. I have noticed one problem while trying to adjust from these defaaults. My blues have a strong purple hue to them. HBL is set to 0 and can't go any lower. Is there any other way to restore thr original factory defaults? Also, clone1008 how were you able to get your GGL back down to 1024?

I didn't ever get them back down. My TV is at the shop as we speak. After endless internet surfing and a few phone calls to a couple of friends in strategic positions in this industry I and they have determined that there is a flaw in these TV's that a few few of us have stumbled across. Mitsubishi is aware of the situation and there has been some dialogue with them. However like most things it will more likely be fixed in the next generation of TV's.

njfoses

11-28-08, 11:17 PM

I didn't ever get them back down. My TV is at the shop as we speak. After endless internet surfing and a few phone calls to a couple of friends in strategic positions in this industry I and they have determined that there is a flaw in these TV's that a few few of us have stumbled across. Mitsubishi is aware of the situation and there has been some dialogue with them. However like most things it will more likely be fixed in the next generation of TV's.

Any idea what causes this? I dont have the issue and have adjusted settings in the service menu and would like to avoid it.

Mike

clone1008

11-29-08, 07:48 AM

I don't really have any idea, but like it has been mentioned 2 main things happen.

1. You don't see it happen until you hit save or enter on the remote which it's too late at that point to change back.

2. Once it happens it seems to over write the backup settings in the TV.

The other thing I have noticed in talking to some other 65835 owners is that our TV's are not shipped with the exact same default settings in the service menus which I find odd. The differences I have noticed are in the grwl, ggwl, gbwl and idl settings.

Livin

11-29-08, 11:39 AM

Any know of a firmware update for the WD-C657 unit?
... It takes forever to sync HDMI and display video.

Daniel Murray

11-29-08, 01:49 PM

Any know of a firmware update for the WD-C657 unit?
... It takes forever to sync HDMI and display video.

If your Sync is with Cable box just use component. If it is a DVD player try a better HDMI cable.

DUlrich1227

11-30-08, 10:14 AM

hello all i have a 57735 and am trying to self calibrate it using DVE Blue ray via ps3.. HDMI

I was using this link(http://www.ramelectronics.net/Video-calibration.ep) to help with the walk through but i have a few questions..

1) the part using the color filter.. with the blue , green, red .. Is it really suppose to look like that with the black boxes? The blue looks like that though not as distinct and the red & green are deffinitly not as distint and boxy.. - i am really unusre how to explain but hope that gets the idea..

2) grey scale on the black and white lvls are controlled by these in the service menu ..
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 100

what is the exact effect of raising and lowering the levels..

thanks dave

cid67

11-30-08, 11:16 AM

the color filters will not give you accurate picture. I calibrated with a colorimeter to exacting standards and with those correct settings the color filter is off.

DUlrich1227

11-30-08, 11:58 AM

thanks mr cid67

anyone out there now if i am on the right track with these 3 settings to tweek the grey scale a bit better? cmg, cmr & cmb..

oh and a good recomendation on a colorimeter?

seggers

11-30-08, 12:21 PM

thanks mr cid67

anyone out there now if i am on the right track with these 3 settings to tweek the grey scale a bit better? cmg, cmr & cmb..

oh and a good recomendation on a colorimeter?

Have a look at the first post in this thread.

Seggers

DUlrich1227

11-30-08, 01:26 PM

Have a look at the first post in this thread.

Seggers

yea just got done reading every post in the thread :-)

i guess i am now looking for a better understanding of these settings
bmg
bmr
bmb
ofg
ofr
ofb
cmg
cmr
cmb

and a nudge in the right direction on dialing in a little more black contrast on the last 2 boxes of the white >> black step test pattern..

I am using my PS3 as the blueray source and am not sure if it may be limiting at all?

thanks

manny1025

11-30-08, 03:37 PM

vandu

12-01-08, 02:48 PM

Manny, Your results look good. How did you determine that GGWL, GRWL & GBWL were good for the high end gray scale? Did you read about it somewhere or did you just experiment?

manny1025

12-01-08, 06:50 PM

If you change the color temperature from low to high then go to the service menu everything was the same except for the GRWL, GGWL, and GBWL settings. I tried them out and it worked perfectly. i didn't need to touch the GRL GGL and GBL at all. I just left them at dfault and messed around with the rest. By the way i used the i1 lt to calibrate on my ps3.

dougmcbride

12-02-08, 12:32 PM

here is my calibration setting on my 65736. i adjusted the high end grayscale using ggwl, grwl, and gbwl settings instead of grl, ggl, and gbl. it gave me a better grayscale reading. i also adjust my colors using 75% color bars. let me know what you guys think of my settings. thanks

Manny - great job and nice results. Thanks for documenting all of your settings. Do you happen to have the "before" file for comparison? Any revelations as you adjusted color?

Thanks,

Doug

manny1025

12-02-08, 09:36 PM

Here is my before file with all of the settings on the service menu.

Corpsman

12-04-08, 01:45 AM

Corpsman

12-04-08, 02:58 AM

After calibrating my WD-65736 I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread on calibrating the new Mitsubishi's. This way we could have a central place to share our ideas and settings. I initially used ColorHCFR to calibrate my TV but after experiencing freezing problems and inaccurate results I ended up using CalMAN to calibrate my TV.

Here is a little breakdown on what I used to calibrate my 736. First set the TV to Low color temp and then take a grayscale and primary and secondary colors reading and save it as your before settings. You can then refer back to this when you are finished to see how much your TV has improved after calibration.

To access the service menu, on the remote press Menu and then 2,4,5,7. This will bring up the service menu. The video button scrolls through each setting in the service menu. UP and Down changes each value, and pressing Enter (or OK) not sure what it is exactly on the remote since I do not have it in front of me, saves the changes.

Then I set my contrast and brightness in accordance with the "Calibration for Dummies Link" (see below). Next I calibrated my grayscale. G(RGB)L the first few settings, adjust the upper end of the grayscale, while BM(RGB) adjusts the low end. Once you get your grayscale correct, calibrate your primary colors, and then secondary colors.

Each color has the follwing in the service menu, with what I guess each could mean:

G(RGBCMY)L (Gain)
S(RGBCMY)L (Saturation)
H(RGBCMY)L (Hue)

Here is what you are going to try and calibrate each color to if you are using a high definition calibration disk:

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

Use these to dial in your colors. Once you have your colors correct, test your grayscale again and make adjustments if needed. Everything effects everything, if that makes any sense, so make sure you recheck your grayscale after making changes to your colors and vice-versa.

One more tip, make changes in the service menu and then exit out to take the readings. You will see why, the colors and brightness differ when you are in the service menu. Those of you with 835's might have an easier time than I did since you have perfect tint, which I don't, only perfect color. So I had to adjust the tint/hue, of each color in the service menu. I was able to get my primary and secondary colors except for Blue and Red close to perfect. Which after a many tries I believe is a limitation of this TV.

In case you don't already have it here are a couple of links, the first is the calibration for dummies guide, and the second is the calibration disk I used, AVS HD 709. The third is for CalMAN, the calibration software I used.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

http://avshd709.com/

http://www.spectracal.com/

Here are my current settings. These might give you a good starting point, if not you can always reset your service menu back to defaults by pressing 0 while in the service menu, and selecting restore white balance, first option I think.

Perfect Color
41
35
33
43
37
24

Color 31
Tint 25
Contrast 11
Brightness 30
Color Temp Low
Video Noise off
Deep Field Imager Off
Sharpness 35

ggl 1020
grl 994
gbl 1045
grl 128
srl 128
hrl 25
ggl 128
sgl 117
hgl 31
gbl 128
sbl 128
hbl 0
gcl 106
scl 86
hcl 15
gml 128
sml 123
hml 99
gyl 128
syl 107
hyl 65
grwl 128
ggwl 110
gbwl 110
bmg 0
bmr 16
bmb 65528
ofg 2
ofr 65530
ofb 5
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 100
idl 36
dbk 1

Good luck and be patient. It is very tedious, make small changes and take readings. It is worth it though once you have it calibrated. Let me know if you have any questions or problems. I've attached a pdf of my calibration report.

Can you post your Perfect Tint settings? What does the Shutter do and should it be on or off?

Daniel Murray

12-04-08, 09:57 AM

I need some info? I am looking at getting EyeOne Display 2 with CalMAN Standard Software to set up my 65835 TV. Has any one used it and if so how do you like it?

vandu

12-04-08, 05:53 PM

I need some info? I am looking at getting EyeOne Display 2 with CalMAN Standard Software to set up my 65835 TV. Has any one used it and if so how do you like it?

I think CalMan is very good but I’m not sure the added cost is worth it. HCFR gave me results very close to CalMan and it’s free. CalMan does not have any problems with computer lock ups like HCFR can have. HCFR worked for me by using LCD mode and avoiding continuous measure (use Perform a Unique Measure instead).

blazeplacid

12-04-08, 08:04 PM

UUUHH guys i dont see some of these setting on my 60735

ggl 1020
grl 994
gbl 1045
grl 128
srl 128
hrl 25
ggl 128
sgl 117
hgl 31
gbl 128
sbl 128
hbl 0
gcl 106
scl 86
hcl 15
gml 128
sml 123
hml 99
gyl 128
syl 107
hyl 65
grwl 128
ggwl 110
gbwl 110

i dont see any of those

bmg 0
bmr 16
bmb 65528
ofg 2
ofr 65530
ofb 5
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 100
idl 36
dbk 1

those i can see

I had a westinghouse 47" and it looked better than this 60735 looks now. I know it needs calibrating.....can someone help??

maybe even give me a phone call????

Corpsman

12-04-08, 08:52 PM

I have a few questions. Hopefully if I ask them all in one post they will be answered.

1. How do you actually do the Manual Keystone Correction?

2. What is the Shutter and should it be on or off?

3. If I lost where I wrote down my factory Service Menu defaults, how do I find the factory settings?

4. Why does it seem that all of the advanced operations (Video Noise, SharpEdge, DeepFeild Imager) are always recommended to be off?

5. If 120Mhz is such a great thing, why does everyone recommend it to be turned off?

I have a WD-73835 that replaced a manufacturer warranted WD-65833 because the HDMI board went bad and the dust blobs were present and the Geek Squad tech did not want to clean the dust blobs, so he put my set up for replacement. Oh well, I traded a 65-833 for a 73-835 and it didn't cost me a penny. The only problem is, Best Buy does not want to recalibrate my new set, even though I paid for calibration on the old one.

blazeplacid

12-05-08, 01:41 PM

Corpsman

12-05-08, 10:57 PM

What is the code for getting the lamp hours?

Scubawoman

12-05-08, 11:44 PM

What is the code for getting the lamp hours?

Press menu then 2 4 7 0
The tech has told me the hours shown are for the light engine, not the bulb. I know this is true as I've had enough light engines replaced with my 73833 and never once a bulb. After each engine replacement the hours were back at 0000. As long as both are the original the numbers will coincide. He said they stopped monitoring bulb hours after the 2006 line.

Scubawoman

12-05-08, 11:53 PM

anyword on how to acess those other menus?
I know you press 2-4-5-7 but i cant view some still
like i said. I can view very few of those posted.

man I wish I knew more about home audio....car audio is my game =)

Press the buttons “2”, “4”, “5”, “7”, pause and then press “0” (Data Selection Mode will appear)
Use the up and down buttons to highlight the line for what you want to do and then press enter

Corpsman

12-06-08, 04:24 AM

DUlrich1227

12-06-08, 07:29 AM

here is my calibration setting on my 65736. i adjusted the high end grayscale using ggwl, grwl, and gbwl settings instead of grl, ggl, and gbl. it gave me a better grayscale reading. i also adjust my colors using 75% color bars. let me know what you guys think of my settings. thanks

are the actual service menu settings posted in your file? I see the comments.. but nothing else am i missing something?

thanks..

blazeplacid

12-06-08, 10:26 AM

i dont know why or how, but everything just showed up

i used the settings that were most recomended but the tv still looks fuzzy.
Its not a really clear picture.

the source is direct tvhd on hdnet/espn/discovery and they dont look near as good as they used to on my old tv, which was just a cheap wesinghouse

what can I adjust to lower the fuzzyness?

blazeplacid

12-06-08, 12:13 PM

ok my ps3 playing blu ray is amazing !!!

the directv....is so so....has anyone upgraded thier directvhd reciver for a higher quaility one?
mine is the generic black hd box

Darin

12-06-08, 12:42 PM

I don't think you'll find much variance in PQ from one DirecTV HD receiver to another. DirecTV (or other broadcast services) won't be on the same level as BR, because they don't have anywhere near the same bandwidth. You do have it connected via HDMI, and you do have it set up to output 1080i, correct? You also have to be careful about what content you are comparing... many of the HD networks stretch SD content, and some of it may even be mislabeled as HD. Try HDNet or HDNet Movies (the MPEG4 versions, not the MPEG2 channels that are in the 70s)... at least then you'll know you're watching real HD content. Now, if you have an older HD receiver that isn't capable of getting the MPEG4 channels, then yes, upgrading will improve your picture. Not because of the receiver itself, but because the MPEG2 channels are more over-compressed, and not as good of a picture as the MPEG4 HD channels.

dougmcbride

12-06-08, 02:16 PM

First, thanks to ksbarnz for starting this thread and keeping the discussion going early on. Also, thanks to those who have posted their experiences on calibrating their sets. Because of you folks, I decided to buy the goods and do my own calibration of my new WD-73736. FYI, I'm coming from many years of enjoying a professionally calibrated Mitsubishi WS-65819 which is now providing enjoyment to my in-laws.

In general, I'm really happy with the 73736. Going from a 65" (especially the older "big box" model) to the 73" was great. Just a little bigger but didn't really seem to take up much more space in the room due to the newer designs. Love that 1080p picture!

OOB, picture was OK, but not up to the standards of a calibrated display. I let it run for almost 100 hours and I can tell you, I really noticed a change as hours accumulated on the bulb, so the advice of letting one of these guys run for a while before calibrating was verified in my mind.

I posted my calibration experience here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15232687#post15232687

as I'm trying to pick Tom Huffman's brain on an issue I have. If any folks here have suggestions or thoughts they would be appreciated. In general I'm in pretty good shape but have some challenges with calibrating Red at the moment. Comparing starting points with some of you, I'm almost wondering if it is just a limitation of my particular set.

Although there is a learning curve to do calibration (as had been said before here and elsewhere), it is doable. These Mits DLPs have a more than adequate CMS, especially compared to other displays on the market, and can be brought in line both from a Gray Scale and Color Gamut perspective with a little time and patience. I spent less money getting the software and hardware to do this than I would have spent on a professional calibration with probably comparable results. And, I can continue to tweak over time and as the bulb ages/gets replaced.

If you have any comments or questions about this calibration, let me know. Thanks again to all who have contributed - I don't think I would have done it if it were not for your pioneering efforts.

Doug

Scubawoman

12-06-08, 02:25 PM

Thank you Scubawoman. I sure hope this WD-73825 will be able to be calibrated to give me a picture that is at least as good as the WD-65833 it replaced. So far the picture is no where near as good.

Does anyone have any experience going from a WD-XX833 to a WD-XX835?

I just got my 835 yesterday from Mitsubishi to replace the 833 and I have to say other than it being too bright and the geometry being off the picture looks very good. I'm still going to have it professionally calibrated once I use it for a bit to make sure I didn't get another lemon. The tech that worked on my 833 had to pick the 833 up as Mitsubishi wants it gutted to send the parts back. They apparently do refurbish light engines and other parts to reuse. He corrected the geometry for me and commented that he thought the picture looked really good out of the box. I notice the contrast is much better is much quieter than my 833 was.

Scubawoman

12-06-08, 02:32 PM

blazeplacid

12-06-08, 02:57 PM

thanks for the help darin

my old tv had the same exact directv hd reciver,set at 1080i, with HDMI
and looked great. i changed nothing when i bought the 60735

so i dont know

im watching kung fu panda right now and it looks superb, but when i switch it back to directv....its not so great

Darin

12-06-08, 02:59 PM

Channel 306 is supposed to have a higher bandwidth than 79 for HDNet. It's from satellite D11.

Thanks... I couldn't remember the channel numbers off the top of my head. Technically, 306 is lower bandwidth, but it uses MPEG4 instead of MPEG2, so it does better with less. The MPEG2 HD channels are going away at some point next year.

Darin

12-06-08, 03:03 PM

i changed nothing when i bought the 60735

You might want to double-check and make sure it's still on 1080i. It's possible that the receiver reverted back to 480 when it detected a display change. I don't know that it would do that, but I wouldn't be surprised if they did to ensure that someone couldn't get stuck with the DVR set to a resolution a new display couldn't handle, with no way to see the screen to change it back.

blazeplacid

12-06-08, 06:26 PM

You might want to double-check and make sure it's still on 1080i. It's possible that the receiver reverted back to 480 when it detected a display change. I don't know that it would do that, but I wouldn't be surprised if they did to ensure that someone couldn't get stuck with the DVR set to a resolution a new display couldn't handle, with no way to see the screen to change it back.

if im comming off as a smart ass im sorry :p

the setting is at 1080i on the box and the blue light indicated it.
the tv also says 1080 when I switch over.

Its so odd to me that blu ray looks so great and directv-hd looks...meh

Darin

12-06-08, 06:35 PM

if im comming off as a smart ass im sorry :p

No, not at all. I was just offering suggestions... it sounded like you thought that Blu-ray looked fine on the new TV, but DirecTV somehow looked worse than it did before, so I was just trying to come up with things that might cause that. But no, if your TV says your'e getting a 1080i signal, then that wouldn't be it. Sorry if you said that earlier and I missed it.

rad

12-06-08, 07:17 PM

Got a 73735 and have a DirecTV HR21-100 and H21-200 connected to it via HDMI and to me it looks great. Of course Blu-Ray via the PS3 is better but that's to be expected when you have something using 30-40Mbps of bandwidth vs. DirecTV that's probably down around 10Mbps.

Did you make sure that the settings for that input were 'tuned' to something besides the factory defaults?

Dan-KF

12-06-08, 07:21 PM

Hey all, I just got my 60735 and im trying to see what settings would work best for my dish vip 622?

Iv seen a few programs on this thread, which free one is the best?

Corpsman

12-09-08, 01:45 AM

Deezul

12-09-08, 07:44 AM

Let me see if I understand this correctly, The HBO and so forth that are in the 70's are MPEG2? Has anyone gotten any of the 1080p content from DirecTV?

The only thing right now that is 1080p is the Incredible Hulk trailer available on VOD.

Scubawoman

12-09-08, 09:25 PM

Let me see if I understand this correctly, The HBO and so forth that are in the 70's are MPEG2? Has anyone gotten any of the 1080p content from DirecTV?

I believe the MPEG4 HD channels are in the 500s.

macyeo

12-10-08, 10:43 AM

I just got my 60735 yesterday and after messing with the #s here, WOW.
Other people that had used eye-one, post your numbers so poor folks like us can borrow the numbers.

seggers

12-10-08, 10:44 AM

I just got my 60735 yesterday and after messing with the #s here, WOW.
Other people that had used eye-one, post your numbers so poor folks like us can borrow the numbers.

Careful with that. I used a couple different numbers from people who had done their 73835's. One looked real good (the one I stayed with), the other, not so good.

Each set appears to be different, and calibrates differently. Light sources, etc...

Seggers

cid67

12-10-08, 04:49 PM

yep, no matter how many times people say otherwise, there's always someone that thinks copying someone else s settings is going to get them an accurate result.

macyeo

12-11-08, 10:44 AM

segger, thanks for the insight. I am aware of that problem. That is why i want to try as many as possible to get the best result.

seggers

12-11-08, 10:45 AM

segger, thanks for the insight. I am aware of that problem. That is why i want to try as many as possible to get the best result.

Actually, I'm going to go another way. I booked my ISF calibration for Jan 2nd. I'm going to get me my own figures.

I'll post them here, for those that are interested.

Seggers

Corpsman

12-12-08, 12:28 AM

I would be interested to see, of all the ISF calibrations that are done on the same sets, how many of those calibrations are similar to one another.

YoobNoob

12-12-08, 09:52 AM

After calibrating my WD-65736 I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread on calibrating the new Mitsubishi's.

This thread was exactly what I was looking for! Thanks, ksbarnz!

By the way, you might want to read this... ;)

(from WikiHow)

Avoid using an apostrophe to indicate a plural. The incorrect use of an apostrophe to form the plural is called the greengrocer's apostrophe, since grocers are often the worst (or at least the most visible) offenders. If you have more than one apple, then write apples, not apple's. If you cannot replace the word with "his," "her," or "their" and if it isn't a contraction, then an apostrophe should not be used.

seggers

12-12-08, 10:01 AM

This thread was exactly what I was looking for! Thanks, ksbarnz!

By the way, you might want to read this... ;)

(from WikiHow)

Avoid using an apostrophe to indicate a plural. The incorrect use of an apostrophe to form the plural is called the greengrocer's apostrophe, since grocers are often the worst (or at least the most visible) offenders. If you have more than one apple, then write apples, not apple's. If you cannot replace the word with "his," "her," or "their" and if it isn't a contraction, then an apostrophe should not be used.

Well, this is an adimral idea, but you will find that if you start to be the gramma queen on this site, that you'll be forever correcting posts, getting on people's nerves, added to vast amounts of ingore list, miss all of what you were trying to find and being possibly bared when enough people complain about you.

Better to gloss over these kinds of things and realise that people may not have inteneded what they put, in the way of grammer, but what they put is better than nothing.

Welcome to AVS, BTW.

Seggers

Darin

12-12-08, 10:09 AM

you will find that if you start to be the gramma queen on this site...

*MY* gramma is the only gramma queen. All the others are just your typical old hags.

:D

mapesaudio

12-12-08, 11:27 AM

You have a PM.
Thanks,
Mapesaudio

mapesaudio

12-12-08, 11:30 AM

Sent you a PM
Thanks,
Mapesaudio

seggers

12-12-08, 11:31 AM

You have a PM.
Thanks,
Mapesaudio

Wanna give us a clue as to was the lucky person?

Seggers

ksbarnz

12-12-08, 12:54 PM

ksbarnz

12-12-08, 12:56 PM

Sent you a PM
Thanks,
Mapesaudio

Got it....thanks.

cid67

12-12-08, 08:33 PM

Avoid using an apostrophe to indicate a plural. The incorrect use of an apostrophe to form the plural is called the greengrocer's apostrophe, since grocers are often the worst (or at least the most visible) offenders. If you have more than one apple, then write apples, not apple's. If you cannot replace the word with "his," "her," or "their" and if it isn't a contraction, then an apostrophe should not be used.

People can often use better grammar if the effort was put in but in my opinion, its the information that count and quite frankly, I just don't have the time to be checking all my Ps and Qs.

I would advise you to not do so ether, if you want to have constructive dialog around here.

Just my two cents.

blazeplacid

12-13-08, 12:54 AM

I fixed my blurry-ness and the terrible colors

I went to menu then pushed 2 4 7 0 and turned production mode off

what a diffrance!!!!

i dont know why they would leave this on from the factory, I almost took the tv back.

Blu ray looks just amazing. The Directv HD looks great now also

dougmcbride

12-13-08, 08:36 PM

dougmcbride

12-14-08, 10:06 AM

ksbarnz - sent you an email.

Thanks

CATBIRD

12-17-08, 03:06 PM

The calibrations in the very post by KSBARNZ, wil these also work for the WD-60735. Thank you in advance.
Catbird

clone1008

12-17-08, 05:15 PM

mapesaudio

12-17-08, 07:02 PM

Just an update to my Calibration NIGHTMARE on the 65835 in the above quote.

After finally getting my TV to a technician it was diagnosed as having a defective main board. After installing the new board and loading all backups the TV is back to normal and covered under warranty...all is well in the universe again.
Just a side note: After posting my problem here I have spoken with 6 other people that have had the exact same problem. All of our techs have diagnosed the problem as a bad Optical Engine and when they call Mitsubishi they all have been told that it is the Main Board...FYI the Main Board is on Back Order...wonder what that tells us????:eek::eek::eek:
As you already know, my main board has also been replaced, only my board has not resolved the problem. It seems that when the backup was copied, it had all the bad numbers in it and the result is the same. Mitsubishi is sending an optical engine, but if they copy the values from the backup, the result will be the same. After this attempt, they have agreed to a replacement. Third TV since original purchase in July....doesn't say much about the quality control over at Mitsubishi. All I can say at this point is "Buyer Beware". Glad your result is better than mine.

Mapesaudio

Callsign_Vega

12-18-08, 07:35 AM

Hello, I have a new 73835. Can I use my Spyder 3 Elite off of my computer to calibrate my TV?

If you are not familiar with this calibrator, here is a link:

http://spyder.datacolor.com/product-mc-s3elite.php

videobruce

12-18-08, 01:17 PM

Anyone using TVGOS with these sets?

dougmcbride

12-20-08, 11:31 AM

njfoses

12-25-08, 11:28 AM

dougmcbride

12-25-08, 11:52 AM

Got my eye one pro and calman and did grayscale calibration on my 73835. Results in the pds. Overall it came out good except for the gamma bump at 90 ire. No matter what i did i couldnt get that right without throwing off the rest of the luminance curve. I believe its due to the auto iris on the 835. Will work on cms in the next day or two and post results when finished. Any feedback is appreciated.

Mike

I think it looks pretty good. Despite the bump in Gamma at 90ire, the overall curve is almost spot on. You'll probably find that all of this will change slightly as you do your CMS and you'll need to re-tweak anyway. Who knows what specific effect the auto-iris has, but you know it has to have some. I have a 73736 so I didn't run into the auto iris effect when doing my cal.

It will be interesting to see your CMS results and how you used PC/PT as well as the SM entries and how close you get. I'd be really interested in seeing your color data before you start to tweak if you have that.

Good luck and have fun (and be patient as ksbarnz so rightly states).

HH

Doug

njfoses

12-25-08, 03:07 PM

I think it looks pretty good. Despite the bump in Gamma at 90ire, the overall curve is almost spot on. You'll probably find that all of this will change slightly as you do your CMS and you'll need to re-tweak anyway. Who knows what specific effect the auto-iris has, but you know it has to have some. I have a 73736 so I didn't run into the auto iris effect when doing my cal.

It will be interesting to see your CMS results and how you used PC/PT as well as the SM entries and how close you get. I'd be really interested in seeing your color data before you start to tweak if you have that.

Good luck and have fun (and be patient as ksbarnz so rightly states).

HH

Doug

I will post before and after with cms.

Mike

ThomasJ

12-26-08, 10:02 AM

Darin

12-26-08, 10:36 AM

No, that's not likely an issue with the cable. Is the player set up to output 1080p?

dougmcbride

12-26-08, 02:39 PM

FYI for those who have CalMAN, they just release 3.2 within the last couple of weeks if you were not aware. I just saw it yesterday and picked it up. Has one thing I really wanted which was a CIE chart with a colored background. Release notes are on their website.

njfoses

12-27-08, 01:58 AM

Just finished the cms work. It definately is time consuming. Once you get a feel for how the controls work it does get easier though. As others have stated blue is undersaturated and cant be fixed. Red is slightly undersaturated as well. I have attached before and after reports.

Mike

dougmcbride

12-27-08, 12:56 PM

Just finished the cms work. It definitely is time consuming. Once you get a feel for how the controls work it does get easier though. As others have stated blue is undersaturated and cant be fixed. Red is slightly undersaturated as well. I have attached before and after reports.

Mike

Mike - thanks for the reports - and yeah, it is time consuming. I found once I got close to the targets though, it got a little easier.

Looks really good as far as the x,y points go on the CIE chart and your Delta E's are great as well (what can you say about the blue... :(). One thing is that your Y values for the primaries are about 1/2 of what they are supposed to be per Rec. 709. Did you do that on purpose or did it turn out that way in order to get the x,y values close? How does your picture look to your eye?

On my 73736 (at least in the current iteration) I had to lower the PC controls on Blue and Cyan down a bunch as I was getting "blued out" on a lot of material (that was using Natural and Low!) and I also had to drop Red about a third as at the correct Y value (~22%) I was getting Red push on skin tones. I had originally used the Perfect Color controls to set Y before tackling x,y and had left the main Color and Tint controls centered. I still have green at around 71% and it looks OK to my eye.

Care to share your SM and PC values? Did you follow the methodology in "Dummies" or another?

Thanks again and enjoy,

Doug

njfoses

12-27-08, 07:40 PM

Mike - thanks for the reports - and yeah, it is time consuming. I found once I got close to the targets though, it got a little easier.

Looks really good as far as the x,y points go on the CIE chart and your Delta E's are great as well (what can you say about the blue... :(). One thing is that your Y values for the primaries are about 1/2 of what they are supposed to be per Rec. 709. Did you do that on purpose or did it turn out that way in order to get the x,y values close? How does your picture look to your eye?

On my 73736 (at least in the current iteration) I had to lower the PC controls on Blue and Cyan down a bunch as I was getting "blued out" on a lot of material (that was using Natural and Low!) and I also had to drop Red about a third as at the correct Y value (~22%) I was getting Red push on skin tones. I had originally used the Perfect Color controls to set Y before tackling x,y and had left the main Color and Tint controls centered. I still have green at around 71% and it looks OK to my eye.

Care to share your SM and PC values? Did you follow the methodology in "Dummies" or another?

Thanks again and enjoy,

Doug

I used 75% color windows so the Y value is based off of 75% white and not 100% white. Thats why my Y values look low but they are all very close. The picture looks good except red is a little orange. I have read the calibration for dummies but basically went on my own once i figured out how all the controls interacted. I will post settings when i have some more time.

Mike

swak

12-27-08, 11:11 PM

cid67

12-28-08, 12:23 PM

the settings are far more complex than one would originaly assume . did you know that when adjusting the gain for a color down, it can also start to lower the gain of white as well, once you get to a certain point. basically it will only let you get only so close to your target value for a color and then even though your getting closer to the value you originally wanted the white gain pulls away and becomes a moving target you can never hit. also concider things like how saturation effects hue or the fact that settings are non linear in that one button press will not always move a value the same amount each time. Or that the service menu gain and hue will move at a smaller increment than the perfectcolor and perfectint equivalent will, thus requiring both be used to hit your target. just using the perfectint and perfectcolor may cause you to over shoot what you could hit otherwise if you used it and the service menu color controls. fun, isn't it.

swak

12-28-08, 08:06 PM

dougmcbride

12-29-08, 06:12 PM

I just downloaded and burned this dvd today and i just tried it in my ps3. It plays but there seems to not be any audio, is there supposed to any sound? (Yes, other dvds played on my ps3 have sound). I guess I was hoping to hear some instructions.

Nope - silent movie. Instructions can be found in the "Dummies" tutorial and the test patterns are on the disc you burned.

swak

12-29-08, 06:14 PM

Thanks Doug for the reply

Vasichko

12-29-08, 06:41 PM

What and where is this production mode at?

I fixed my blurry-ness and the terrible colors

I went to menu then pushed 2 4 7 0 and turned production mode off

what a diffrance!!!!

i dont know why they would leave this on from the factory, I almost took the tv back.

Blu ray looks just amazing. The Directv HD looks great now also

njfoses

01-01-09, 10:32 AM

After doing my calibration with calman and eye one pro and then going back a day or two later the measurements change by a decent margin. Grayscale especially changes and if i adjust it at that time and then go back again a day later it changes again. I feel like im constantly chasing my tail lol. I did a calibration again last night from scratch and im done now. Time to enjoy the tv and i wont measure again for a few months.

cid67

01-01-09, 10:51 AM

njfoses

01-01-09, 12:33 PM

I noticed the same thing with my eye one. I was thinking it could be that the cheaper sensors will drift in there measurement if they aren't operated within a specific temperature. my eye one says it should be used at 20 degrees Celsius. plus or minus 5 degrees. I was also thinking it could be my software but you are using different software than me so that apparently isn't it.

Im using the eye one pro which will it is not a top of the line meter i would expect it to be fairly accurate a day or two later. I wonder how many people go back and remeasure and there results stay the same.

Mike

Corpsman

01-01-09, 01:48 PM

GUys,

i just got a WD-65835. I also have a Sony BluRay player connected to it via HDMI. When playing a BR disk, the info screen says "1081i Standard". Why is it not 1080P?

I bought an HDMI cable that says it's 1.3 compliant even though I only paid $20 for it. Does the cable itself matter?

Thanks!

Your issue is most likely that the setup menu in the BRD player is not set to output to 1080p. There is a plethora of proof that cables are not a limiting factor when it comes to HDMI.

seggers

01-02-09, 02:01 PM

swak

01-02-09, 03:03 PM

So my calibration man has been here for little over an hour now.

At least he understood how the wiring was done and how to get into the service menu of the 835. I will get a before an after report. So hopefully this'll be worth the cash.

One little gripe though. I keep my remotes in their plastic wrappings. Why oh why do these techie people insist on taking them out? :(

Seggers

Looking forward to seeing all your settings and comparing them to the one other pro 73835 calibration that I have seen posted here. Planning on attempting my own very soon (it is my daughter's science project)

swak

01-02-09, 03:10 PM

I was determined to make CEC Net Command work so I decided to actually read the instructions (read chapter 6 on the 73835). I found that it works if the inputs are assigned correctly! I had never followed these instructions all the way through and I assume most of you also have not. Attached are two pictures of my input menus. We all found out that naming the input AVR didn't work but I now have discovered that the naming and input assignment process wasn't finished. New thought: I think the resetting to defaults was happening because the tv thought it found a new input each time the input was changed due to the input assignment process not being complete.

Now I have my ps3 and vudu box again connected via hdmi to my onkyo 606 with one hdmi cable to the tv and there is no color resetting when switching inputs or on/off. Also the inputs on the AVR now switch to input selected on the tv along with entire system on and off and volume control. Who said it couldn't be done! :D

seggers

01-02-09, 04:07 PM

Looking forward to seeing all your settings and comparing them to the one other pro 73835 calibration that I have seen posted here. Planning on attempting my own very soon (it is my daughter's science project)

He was here for about 2 and quarter hours. Some of the colours were way off (blue) and have been toned down a bit. The geo was slightly off in the middle of the screen, which he decided to leave alone, and charge me less because of :D

When I get the PDF, I'll post it here.

One good thing to note was that my settings were not that far off, so the 73835 stuff I used first was pretty near my own eventual settings.

Then the poor blighter was off out to calibrate an AM ant in 32 degree weather and driving snow :eek:

Seggers

njfoses

01-04-09, 03:29 PM

An interesting discovery i made today using my eye one pro, calman and the avs709 calibration disc. I calibrated my set (73835) initially with the regular grayscale and color patterns on the 709 disc. After reading some more about the 709 disc there are patterns designed for sets with an auto iris which the 835 has. I remeasured all my settings using these new patterns and the results are interesting and now confusing. Grayscale measurements are significantly different between the two patterns. My grayscale with the apl pattern now shows to much blue which i think i see with my own eyes. Gamma also changed between the old and new pattern. Color stayed close to the same. So now my dilemma is do i start from scratch using these new patterns or stick with what i have now? Who and or how do i determine which is right? Opinions?

AuroraProject

01-04-09, 03:56 PM

I'm going to buy a new tv this week. I've narrowed it down to 2 sets, the Mits 73736 or the Samsung hl72a650. The only thing that concerns me about the Mits is people say the colors are all over the place out of the box. Is this something I can get close by eye? I have Avia on dvd, and am willing to spend some time on it, but right now a full isf calibration is not an option (maybe so in the future). The only reason I'm considering the Sammy is the vga input, I have a pre hdmi Xbox 360 and that would get me 1080p out of it. But I hear the 73736 with dc4 gets better blacks.

cid67

01-04-09, 04:14 PM

njfoses

01-04-09, 04:33 PM

what patterns are you referring to and where did you get the information you are basing this on. I would be interested in exploring this with you but I need more info.

In the calibration forum there is a post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 this is the disc i used. Download the patterns pdf and you will see what im talking about with the various patterns. My grayscale varied by a decent amount pending if i used the regular grayscale pattern or the apl pattern. Grayscale became very blue using the apl pattern. Now im not sure which is correct?

dougmcbride

01-05-09, 02:08 PM

AuroraProject

01-08-09, 07:11 PM

Thanks, I bought a 73736 today, and will have it tomorrow. Is there a spreadsheet of user settings for this model?

dougmcbride

01-10-09, 12:45 PM

Thanks, I bought a 73736 today, and will have it tomorrow. Is there a spreadsheet of user settings for this model?

Browse this thread, especially early on and you will see some folk's settings which may or may not work for your set. This thread is more attuned to getting the display calibrated to be accurate across the gray scale and color gamut if that's what you are looking for. Over in the regular owners thread, some folks have commented on the fact they don't like to the looks of their sets using low color temp and natural picture mode, but that's the closest OOB to standard, along with getting the contrast down from the OOB 63 to something closer to mid point.

Also, your bulb will change over the first 100 hours or so which should require a re-tweak.

If you decide to get into the service menu for any reason, make sure you first write down your settings and be VERY careful about what you change.

Good luck and enjoy your new set.

Doug