Quick question> Why spend the money on a TV with all the available extras such as sharper edge, deep field imager, etc and no one seems to use any of them. Why does Mits... even offer these settings?

Quick question> Why spend the money on a TV with all the available extras such as sharper edge, deep field imager, etc and no one seems to use any of them. Why does Mits... even offer these settings?

Only my opinion - but more "features" sound good to the average consumer. The average consumer may also actually find the over-processed picture to their liking, much as they may like over-saturated colors, whites that are very blue, and blacks that at best are gray.

And, once they are used to that type of picture as "normal", they think a set that is calibrated to standards is too dark, too red/brown, and too "green".

Thankfully we have a choice and the ability to enact it if we choose.

Mits is far from alone in this regard - almost every display made has these options and more. I just calibrated a friend's Sony XBR6 and almost drowned in the extra features and choices... :eek:

Doug

So I finally got through to the ISF people. It would seem that whatever software that was being used was having a bad hair day as it corrupted the report file beyond the help of even the software writers.

The ISF bod wants to come by and measure the settings again, just so he can give me a report.

My fear is this: the report is corrupt, so who's to say that the calibration is any good? The TV does look fine, but I think I'll mention this when he comes back.

Sigh, this would be all well and good if I'd have paid the CC people to do it for 150. However, I paid a whole lot more for it than that.

Seggers

Just got my 73735 delivered yesterday and am waiting on my Eye One to be delivered. In summation for grey scale is this correct?
ggwl, grwl, and gbwl for upper grey scale
ggl, grl, and gbl for middle upper grey scale
bmg, bmr, and bmb for middle lower grey scale
ofg, ofr, and ofb for lower grey scale

Also what does everyone have their Eye One set for? LCD or CRT? I will be using Calman software.
Thx
Norm

no just use GGL, GRL, GBL for the high end ofg, ofb, ofr for the low end.

Hello,

New 60735 owner here.

I've read through every post in this thread and understand my options as far as professional calibration and the excellent info in the first post to achieve a detailed and accurate DIY calibration.

Since my bulb's not broken in, and it will be a while before I can afford either of the above options, can someone recommend a brief process to get the set in the ballpark using a calibration disk (such as the DVE blu-ray)?

I have set the picture mode to Normal, Color Temp to Low and lamp mode to Standard, as previously recommended.

Using a reference such as the DVE disc, can I enter the service menu and tweak in brightness, contrast and color a bit by eye until I can do a proper job?

Thanks to all for the great info in this and the owner's thread.

Hello,

New 60735 owner here.

I've read through every post in this thread and understand my options as far as professional calibration and the excellent info in the first post to achieve a detailed and accurate DIY calibration.

Since my bulb's not broken in, and it will be a while before I can afford either of the above options, can someone recommend a brief process to get the set in the ballpark using a calibration disk (such as the DVE blu-ray)?

I have set the picture mode to Normal, Color Temp to Low and lamp mode to Standard, as previously recommended.

Using a reference such as the DVE disc, can I enter the service menu and tweak in brightness, contrast and color a bit by eye until I can do a proper job?

Thanks to all for the great info in this and the owner's thread.

Dean - you don't need to get into the service menu to adjust contrast, brightness, color, sharpness, tint, etc. Those adjustments are available, along with Perfect Color per input, in the regular User Menu.

The HD DVE is a good cal disc and you can set a multitude of adjustments with the patterns provided. The real difference between doing it by "eye" versus with a meter is you can't really do your gray scale on by eye, and some say that adjusting color/hue by eye using filters doesn't get it done and therefore using a meter is preferable.

I'd suggest getting the DVE disc and watch the tutorials, then do the basic calibration. You'll be surprised at how much difference you'll notice. Then you can decide if it's worth it to get a meter to go to the next level.

Enjoy,

Doug

OK. Got my Eye two and dialed in the gray scale good. A delta drop at 20 IRE but I can live with it. When I went to dial in my colors things went haywire. I used CMG, CMR. and CMB. These threw my gray scale way off.
I lowered the CM(GRB) settings and recalibrated gray scale. What is the secret to correct colors?

Norm

Thx to Cid

Here is what you are going to try and adjust each color to.

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0


The chart shows the x y and Y value for each color. I'd start with Perfect Tint to try and dial in each color's xy value but it might take a combination of Perfect Tint and the service menu to get it perfect. Use Perfect Color to dial in the Y value for each color. To find the Y value for each color take a 100% white reading and look at it's Y value. Now multiply this value by the Y value in the above chart. The result is the Y value you are shooting for for that color.

To make it easier to calibrate a color, show a 100% color window from you calibration disk and pause it. Start taking a continuous reading with ColorHCFR and start making your adjustments and notice how they affect the xyY values for each color. Once you start to get a feel for how to adjust them it should go pretty smooth, but it will definitely take some time.

This may be useful to some that are trying to dial in their colors a bit better using the service menu controls. After playing around with the controls a bit I was able to get a general feel for how each of the settings affected the color coordinates.

For each color there are 3 individual controls for what I'm assuming is gain, saturation, and hue. You'll want to use these settings to help bring the colors in to the reference levels.

G<RGBCYM>L - The gain control will control the luminance (or Y) value of the selected color. This doesn't change the x,y coordinates much but will have a definate impact on the luminance. The corresponding PerfectColor seems to control the same thing this service menu control does, but at a larger granularity and with a different range. This is the control that affects the brightness of a given color.

S<RGBCYM>L - This controls the saturation, or amount of color at any given brightness. As you drop this control to 0, the color will shift toward a shade of grey at a similar brightness. If you are looking at the colors on the CIE94 plot, this controls effect will seem to move the colors coordinates inward toward the white point.

H<RGBCYM>L - on the CIE94 plot the hue control will adjust the angle of the color from white. For those with PerfectTint controls, this is probably similar to adjusting that.

If you imagine there being a circle placed with it's center at the white point, the hue will adjust the color along the circumference of the circle, while saturation will adjust the radius.

I'm not an expert or professional calibrator so YMMV, but after entering and exiting the service menu many many times (and this is quite tedious!) in the process of my calibration this is how I saw the x,y points behaving after changing the service menu controls.

OK. Got my Eye two and dialed in the gray scale good. A delta drop at 20 IRE but I can live with it. When I went to dial in my colors things went haywire. I used CMG, CMR. and CMB. These threw my gray scale way off.
I lowered the CM(GRB) settings and recalibrated gray scale. What is the secret to correct colors?

Norm

Thx to Cid


Read the quotes above. They are from earlier in this post. Remember you are trying to get the colors as close to the reference points on the cie chart which is x,y and the correct luminance which is Y which is not seen on the cie chart. Good luck. Post results when finished.

Mike

Here are my results. They're kind of contradictory. My gray scale and delta seem OK but my RGB color level and balance seem off. Not sure if I'm gonna keep workin it.

Can some please help me find why my color settings are not being saved. I change the picture mode and color settings to my preference and when i turn on my tv it all goes back to brilliant and colors back to default. Its driving me nuts and Mitsubishi support can not find the problem.

Are you using CEC or do you have HDMI1 labeled anything other than that? From what I understand people that relabeled their inputs have problems. I left mine the way it came from the factory and have had no problems.

Norm

Can some please help me find why my color settings are not being saved. I change the picture mode and color settings to my preference and when i turn on my tv it all goes back to brilliant and colors back to default. Its driving me nuts and Mitsubishi support can not find the problem.

Support is probably a bunch of kids that haven't read and don't understand their own manuals. When you complete the AVR setup, HDMI CEC control (net command) works without settings being reset , at least on my 73835.

I also did a reset on my remote. I pressed menu than 123 and enter. i set my hdmi 1 to avr that's all. My setup is: ps3 to onkyo 806 reviever, direct tv to receiver and then hdmi from receiver to tv that's it. Imple and straight foward. So are you saying don't assign hdmi to anything?

Hi-- I thought some of you might want to see the ISF calibration report.

Perfect Color Tint
R 37 22
G 44 17
B 23 31
Y 34 31
C 38 40
M 40 18
Picture Mode Natural
Contrast 56
Brightness 17
Color 30
Tint 31
Sharpness 19
Color Temp Low
Video Noise Low
SharpEdge Off
DeepFieldImager Off

BTW-- Gray scale was adjusted in the service menu and the Bulb was set at the higher/brighter setting

5 questions:

1) Given how super bright it is even in lower bulb and with Contrast = 45, I'm wondering why you used the bulb at HIGH and Contrast = 56. Did the calibration reduce brightness so you had to increase brightness.

2) Was Perfectcolor at all = 31 during the calibration?

3) What source does ISF use? (Hopefully a DVD and they bring a DVD player with HDMI.) Do they have to calibrate each HDMI port?

4) Did they set SHARPNESS al the way down at 19 -- that seems very soft.

5) Who did the ISF?

I also did a reset on my remote. I pressed menu than 123 and enter. i set my hdmi 1 to avr that's all. My setup is: ps3 to onkyo 806 reviever, direct tv to receiver and then hdmi from receiver to tv that's it. Imple and straight foward. So are you saying don't assign hdmi to anything?
For a quick and easy solution I would try keeping the input named HDMI 1.

Norm

thanks i will try this tonight

thanks i will try this tonight
Also under the Menu>Inputs make sure you have Netcommand turned off

Norm

Also under the Menu>Inputs make sure you have Netcommand turned off

Norm

and after you change the input name all settings will again be lost, but once you reset them it should be fine.

rant on

OK, for some reason I am feeling crabby today and this just isn't helping. :mad:

Excatly 2 weeks ago today I had my Mits calibrated by the local boutique shop, Stereo Advantage (or one of its sister companies). Supposed to be ISF certified, not cheap and provide me with a report. I joked at the time that I could always go back and rant at them if I didn't like something. :eek: Oh how ironic.....

One week later, no email (or proper bill either), so I call. Good luck trying to get hold of a real person. :mad: Finally manage to get a call back from the calibrator (who I feel sorry for right about now as he is really stuck in the middle) and he left me a message.

Turns out that the software/laptop/windows registery mix caused the software to crap out big big time and corrupt the PDF of the report and/or the Windows registery. This laptop is a Mac running Windows in a window (as Macs can) because of the types of software used. The software writers can't recover the PDF and thus the guy needs to come back to get me my report.

To be honest and fair, the TV does look pretty damn good and all seems to be well there. To be unfair, I am a software developer and if my code craps out so bad as to corrupt something, I go back to the beginning and start again. Which is what I expected to be hearing now and is not what I've been told.

So that's what I want. I want my report that I have already paid for, and I want to soothed and re-assured that the calibration that has been done is correct (as it appears to be to my untrained eyes). I also want the company to be more pro-active in trying to reach me and ensuring that I am getting the service that I paid so handsomly for. What I don't want is to be pissed about and made to feel that the company is doing me a favour by coming back and completing the service that I paid for.

So I dropped a bomb on the bloke (told you I feel sorry for him). Either they re-do the calibration and provide me my report, or I am going to call the CC company and challenge the charge based on non completion of requested service.

Now, I'm not completely un-reasonable (OK, I am really) and if he actually shows me that the set is calibrated properly (and by going through and remeasuring will do that) and provides me the report then I will be a happy camper. I might even go so far as to recommend them to the few guys in the ofice who are muttering about getting their new plasma's dealt with.

Right now, however, I feel like taking a road trip and being really un-necessary to the management of SA.

/rant off

So when I get my report, I'll get it in a medium that can be dropped up here (I suspect that my little tantrum will result in the PDF not being able to be produced for some magic reason and ending up with a paper copy), and post it. :D

If you got this far, then cheers, I begin to feel a bit better now..... :)

Seggers

Here are my results. They're kind of contradictory. My gray scale and delta seem OK but my RGB color level and balance seem off. Not sure if I'm gonna keep workin it.

Capt - your results aren't really horrible, but they could be better (at least on paper). How does your set look to your eye?

Post your settings both User and Service Menu if you would. What cal disk did you use? The AVS HD 709? What stimulus level were you using for your Color Windows - 100% or 75%? Did you make sure you set CalMAN for what stimulus level you used (in the Options section bottom left).

Also - be patient (I'm speaking from experience). I found that I could go for a while then I had to stop and watch for a few days, then got back into it again. Each time I did some work I got closer and closer. Since we're not Pros, it takes us longer but you can get close to pro-level results (at least on paper).

Also - what did you use for a reference for workflow? Dummies Guide? Did you set your color decoder before working on the Gamut? Check the instructions for setting the color decoder and look at your Y values and see what you think.

Also, I found that calibrating color changes the gray scale and vice versa. It's part of that continual tweaking process going back and forth that gets you close.

Cheers,

Doug

while we are sharing calibration reports I thought now might be a good time to chime in with my "final" final calibration report. for the WD-65835. ;)
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = off
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
contrast = 37
brightness = 30
color = 63
tint = 31
sharpness = 31
smooth 120 = off
film mode = auto
lamp mode = standard

perfectcolor / perfectint
-------------------------------------
27 / 27
29 / 25
34 / 33
37 / 43
34 / 30
23 / 16

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 3 / 65515

5= 1024
6= 1102
7= 1059

30= 122
31= 128
32= 0
33= 120
34= 111
35= 0
36= 99
37= 128
38= 0
39= 120
40= 87
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 110
46= 107
47= 0

54= 0
55= 8
56= 65531

while we are sharing calibration reports I thought now might be a good time to chime in with my "final" final calibration report. for the WD-65835. ;)
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = off
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
contrast = 37
brightness = 30
color = 63
tint = 31
sharpness = 31
smooth 120 = off
film mode = auto
lamp mode = standard

perfectcolor / perfectint
-------------------------------------
27 / 27
29 / 25
34 / 33
37 / 43
34 / 30
23 / 16

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 3 / 65515

5= 1024
6= 1102
7= 1059

30= 122
31= 128
32= 0
33= 120
34= 111
35= 0
36= 99
37= 128
38= 0
39= 120
40= 87
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 110
46= 107
47= 0

54= 0
55= 8
56= 65531

while we are sharing calibration reports I thought now might be a good time to chime in with my "final" final calibration report. for the WD-65835. ;)
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = off
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
contrast = 37
brightness = 30
color = 63
tint = 31
sharpness = 31
smooth 120 = off
film mode = auto
lamp mode = standard

perfectcolor / perfectint
-------------------------------------
27 / 27
29 / 25
34 / 33
37 / 43
34 / 30
23 / 16

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 3 / 65515

5= 1024
6= 1102
7= 1059

30= 122
31= 128
32= 0
33= 120
34= 111
35= 0
36= 99
37= 128
38= 0
39= 120
40= 87
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 110
46= 107
47= 0

54= 0
55= 8
56= 65531


With the color control as high as you have it you dont have any sunburned faces? What was achieved by rasing the color control so high? What patterns did you end up using for grayscale?

Mike

while we are sharing calibration reports I thought now might be a good time to chime in with my "final" final calibration report. for the WD-65835. ;)
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = off
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
contrast = 37
brightness = 30
color = 63
tint = 31
sharpness = 31
smooth 120 = off
film mode = auto
lamp mode = standard

perfectcolor / perfectint
-------------------------------------
27 / 27
29 / 25
34 / 33
37 / 43
34 / 30
23 / 16

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 3 / 65515

5= 1024
6= 1102
7= 1059

30= 122
31= 128
32= 0
33= 120
34= 111
35= 0
36= 99
37= 128
38= 0
39= 120
40= 87
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 110
46= 107
47= 0

54= 0
55= 8
56= 65531

I'm also curious about how the set looks with your main color control at 63. Also, could you please post your measurements (numbers) for your color gamut? The CIE chart looks nice but I'd like to see where your Y values came in.

On my set, I got the color decoder set (Y values) and then did the Gamut. When I went to view material, I had sunburn and wound up lowering the Red PC control to where Red Y was about 11% rather than the standard 21%. I also had (to my eye) way too much Blue/Cyan to the point of annoyance and fatigue. I wound up lowering Blue a bit and Cyan even more to mellow it out, which looks horrible on the CIE chart but good to my eye.

Just goes to show you that even if the numbers and CIE chart look good, it may not look as good as you want on real material. I'm going to go back one of these days and do another run on the set as my max white level is starting to drop as the bulb ages and try some different things. The good news is it is getting easier to tweak the more I do it.

The zip file contains a .chc file for HCFR and an spreadsheet with final settings over several runs.

Doug

I boosted the color control to max to give me more range in my saturation. the saturation control only goes down from the default setting in the service menu and with a color setting at the default 31 I couldn't get saturation up to where it needed to be for some colors. I dont have overly bright colors because I compensated for the high color setting with the perfectcolor and the service menu saturation controls.

after some conversation with the creator of the HVSHD 709 calibration disk I wound up realizing I hade to use special APL patterns designed for use with an auto iris to finally get the color and black level right. if you use normal patterns for adjusting color the numbers may look right but your Y value will actually be a bit off from where they really should be. it also allowed me to get an accurate reading on the gamma as Im sure some of you diamond owner's will know that the iris throws off the gamma under normal conditions..

could you please post your measurements (numbers) for your color gamut? The CIE chart looks nice but I'd like to see where your Y values came in.

the numbers for color are above the cie chart in the same image. it wasn't originally there but its there now.

you will notice the Y for blue is quite a ways off but this is actually more correct, under my circumstance, than the technically correct number because of the formula my delat E is using. delta e basically has suggested that if you have a desaturated color you may want to increase Y some to compensate. this may not be correct for all calibration programs as the probably aren't all using the same formula for delta e but at least for color hcfr this appears to be the case.

I can say for sure that this is as close to accurate as this set can get . I finessed the set to the point that an adjustment of any setting in any direction throws that setting further out. so its as good as she gets. I am definitely happy.

Thx Doug. Maybe I'll go about it your way and attack it bit by bit. Also thanks Cid for that tip on increasing color. I ran into the same problem with saturation levels and didn't know how to fix it.
Would people agree that this is the right technique.
1 adjust gray scale
2 adjust the Y levels for color
3 adjust the x,y levels for color

Norm

I boosted the color control to max to give me more range in my saturation. the saturation control only goes down from the default setting in the service menu and with a color setting at the default 31 I couldn't get saturation up to where it needed to be for some colors. I dont have overly bright colors because I compensated for the high color setting with the perfectcolor and the service menu saturation controls.

after some conversation with the creator of the HVSHD 709 calibration disk I wound up realizing I hade to use special APL patterns designed for use with an auto iris to finally get the color and black level right. if you use normal patterns for adjusting color the numbers may look right but your Y value will actually be a bit off from where they really should be. it also allowed me to get an accurate reading on the gamma as Im sure some of you diamond owner's will know that the iris throws off the gamma under normal conditions..



the numbers for color are above the cie chart in the same image. it wasn't originally there but its there now.

you will notice the Y for blue is quite a ways off but this is actually more correct, under my circumstance, than the technically correct number because of the formula my delat E is using. delta e basically has suggested that if you have a desaturated color you may want to increase Y some to compensate. this may not be correct for all calibration programs as the probably aren't all using the same formula for delta e but at least for color hcfr this appears to be the case.

I can say for sure that this is as close to accurate as this set can get . I finessed the set to the point that an adjustment of any setting in any direction throws that setting further out. so its as good as she gets. I am definitely happy.

I tried maxing out the color control to get red more saturated. After all was said and done my numbers came out correct but flesh tones were way to red. If it looks good to you than great but i have a feeling its not "correct."

Mike

flesh tones are natural on my set. I know what you mean by the sunburned look and my set doesn't have that. have you tried different material? perhaps its just your source.
lots of different movies, especially newer one use color correction that dose, sometimes tend to make skin orange or unnatural looking what may be described as sunburned looking but its just the way the movie was designed visually. good movies for skin tone in my opinion are, the patriot, aeon flux, independence day,twister, I robot. I am sure there are others. I actually don't like the look of a lot of material on the DVE disk. such as that funky looking redheaded girl. shes a ginger so its hard judge accuracy with her skin tone but she always looks wrong to me. probably because its old material and was likely mastered for rec 601.
remember, standard definition material uses a more desaturated color pallet so if you use SD as a refferance on a set calibrated for high def. the colors will be over saturated.

Would people agree that this is the right technique.
1 adjust gray scale
2 adjust the Y levels for color
3 adjust the x,y levels for color

contrary to popular opinion, I actually find it easier to adjust the xy than the Y for colors on my set. the key is to just keep on going through the steps over and over. each time you will get closer and closer to correct. every setting tends to effect another setting so you just have to finesse it by just repeating the steps until its finally as close to right as possible. its really a pain but that's the deal.

So the poor tech came back today and re-did the setup with a different laptop.

In the time since the previous attempt I had added curtains to the room and swapped out al the HDMI cables for matched monoprice cables.

So he was here for about an hour 45 and provided a pdf this time. I have to clean it up a bit, then I'll post it here.

I've borrowed cid67's layout below.

I have to say that it looks good and is slightly nearer the right spec. We do most of our viewing in a darkened room, with little or no light.

Seggers

lamp mode = standard
picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = low
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
smooth 120 = off

contrast = 45
brightness = 19
color = 29
tint = 33
sharpness = 28

perfect colour / tint
-------------------------------------
42 / 28
41 / 20
32 / 22
18 / 24
31 / 30
31 / 18

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 5 / 6
5= 1024
6= 1122
7= 1048
8=1
30= 118
31= 128
32= 0
33= 128
34= 118
35= 0
36= 128
37= 128
38= 0
39= 128
40= 107
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 128
46= 111
47= 0
48=120
49=128
50=124
51, 52, 53, 54= 0
55= 10
56= 65533
57=100
58=100
59=97
60=31
61=1

congratulations. now don't even think about touching any settings as it will slightly throw it off and putting it back to the same settings they where on may not bring it back.

could you post the pdf so we can all have a look.

OK, having scrubbed a couple of things from the PDF, here they are. I had to break them out.

Seggers

thanks. as long as your happy than great but it looks like your gray scale is still pretty warm. also looking at your gamma, it looks like its possible that your blacks are being crushed a little. hard to say for sure because he didnt use APL patterns.

I am curious how he got the blue more saturated. as it has been confirmed by myself as well as professional calibrators that blue is not able to be fully adjusted. even maxed out in saturation it just will not hit its CIE point. my guess, by looking at your CIE chart is that perhaps he achieved more saturation of blue by throwing hue accuracy out on green but t I question the accuracy of that CIE diagram all together. I don't believe its giving you enough resolution to see the level off error really there. to bad it wasn't bigger with smaller points.

I'm still not sure what to make of page 3. the two top charts show a huge difference in blue from the other colors. is this showing the error for your colors or your gray scale? it cant be gray scale, I am assuming because there is another chart that shows that. perhaps the numbers to the left are saturation levels or color decoder. if its saturation or even delta E than I would say this looks about right and jives with what I have experienced but with that large an error certainly it would show up on your CIE chart. no way an error like that could be purely luminance.

where are your secondary colors. that's where the biggest errors are on this set and they have to be adjusted independently as this set has a five segment color wheel. if he didn't adjust secondary colors you set is most certainly not calibrated. also, you may want to put sharpness back on 31.

OK, ill stop nitpicking now. just remember what really matters is not what some chart says or what some yahoo like myself says. all that matters is what your eyes say.

Cid,

I didn't hover around whilst he did it, so I don't know what he did. I do know that he was in the service menu the first time he came over.

I also remember him saying about blue dialing in quite well, but green being a bit more porblematical and also something about getting it near 20 fl (or something like that).

I had to break out the original PDF into pages as the first one had my address in it. The pages I put up are all that was in the report. Plus I wrote down all the menu and SM settings.

I suppose I can call the guy and ask about the secondary colours, but I'm not sure that he'd want to come back again, as I did throw my toys out of the pram after the first visit.

Seggers

New 65736 owner as of today. I've tried many of the recommended settings throughout this thread. Still can't get it right. Biggest problem, my reds are brown. Has anyone experienced this? I tried to view all of the posts but saw no mention of it. I saw Ohio State playing basketball in brown uniforms, I saw a Verizon commericial and their red check mark logo was brown, Obama's tie during today's inauguration, you guessed it brown. I almost feel like returing the TV. It is very frustrating. Red is brown. Aaargh.

well. you can adjust the tint or you can go into the service menu and adjust HRL or HRH depending on if you are in low color or high color.

Here is what I'm considering my final calibration. My gray scale is good but colors are still a little off. I think my problem with colors is in the Y value. I calibrated my set at 45 foot lamberts so that may be my problem hitting the Y values on colors. The set still looks good to my eyes.

while we are sharing calibration reports I thought now might be a good time to chime in with my "final" final calibration report. for the WD-65835. ;)
Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

picture Mode = natural
Color Temp = low
video noise = off
sharp edge = off
deep field Imager = 0ff
contrast = 37
brightness = 30
color = 63
tint = 31
sharpness = 31
smooth 120 = off
film mode = auto
lamp mode = standard

perfectcolor / perfectint
-------------------------------------
27 / 27
29 / 25
34 / 33
37 / 43
34 / 30
23 / 16

==============================================
Service Menu

1= 3 / 65515

5= 1024
6= 1102
7= 1059

30= 122
31= 128
32= 0
33= 120
34= 111
35= 0
36= 99
37= 128
38= 0
39= 120
40= 87
41= 0
42= 128
43= 127
44= 0
45= 110
46= 107
47= 0

54= 0
55= 8
56= 65531


Which patterns did you end up using for grayscale? color? Thanks.

Mike

I used the APL patterns on the HVS HD 709 calibration disk.

I used the 10% gray scale steps windowed for setting gray. I used the 100% saturation colors windowed for color settings. All on the HD 709 disc.

Norm

ive been looking at the 73835 but i noticed theres a $1,300 difference between the 73835 and the 73736 is there that big of a difference that would make it worth it to buy the diamond series? or what about the older 73833 how does that compare to the new ones

I used the APL patterns on the HVS HD 709 calibration disk.

You used apl for grayscale and also color? I guess you decided the apl pattern is "right" for grayscale. Did you use the Y measurement from the 100% grayscale window, or the one from the 100% white window on the color pattern to adjust luminance on your colors? When i played around with the apl patterns i noticed that my Y value of white changed between the 2 different apl patterns.

Mike

I noticed the Y value change between the white for gray scale and color as well. since I didn't have a pro level meter I just chalked it up to level of error in the meter. I used the 100 white in the color section for dialing color in and the 100 white in the grayscale patterns for gray. this looks to be the way its supposed to be done so that's the way I did it.

I used apl for both gray scale and color . the apl didn't really change my gray scale readings but id did change my gamma and luminance and it looks like I got a better black level calibration as a result.

ive been looking at the 73835 but i noticed theres a $1,300 difference between the 73835 and the 73736 is there that big of a difference that would make it worth it to buy the diamond series? or what about the older 73833 how does that compare to the new ones

I have both the 73833 and 73835. The XX33 was replaced w/the XX35 due to a 'blob' issue that they replaced the light engine 3 times before sending me the 835. Check http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=899744 for more info on the 833. My model was one of the later ones.
So for no 'blob' issues at all w/the 835. Are there differences between the 2 models you mentioned -yes - do some quick homework. Go for the upper model either the 833 or 835.

Question about calibration. When I bought my current RPTV Mitsu HD set back in 2000...I was told digging into the service menu could screw up my set permanently if not done correctly.

I am now assuming that was just a line of BS so they could come out and do the calibration for a fee.

From what I have read in this post, it seems that this is something the DIY guy could tackle with patience and the right tool(s). Am I right?

Question about calibration. When I bought my current RPTV Mitsu HD set back in 2000...I was told digging into the service menu could screw up my set permanently if not done correctly.

I am now assuming that was just a line of BS so they could come out and do the calibration for a fee.

From what I have read in this post, it seems that this is something the DIY guy could tackle with patience and the right tool(s). Am I right?

Be REAL careful accessing the service menu - you can screw things up. I'm a DIY guy and i've decided that spending $3k on a TV i'll spend the $500 to have it professionally done w/their software and tools - I am scheduling Craig to come out and calibrate mine.
Web: www.cir-engineering.com

Email: craigr@cir-engineering.com

Question about calibration. When I bought my current RPTV Mitsu HD set back in 2000...I was told digging into the service menu could screw up my set permanently if not done correctly.

I am now assuming that was just a line of BS so they could come out and do the calibration for a fee.

From what I have read in this post, it seems that this is something the DIY guy could tackle with patience and the right tool(s). Am I right?

You are, but with a caveat.

There are people in this thread who have right Royally rogered their sets by making a change and saving it. The setting then screwed up the set and they were unable to fully recover.

Seggers

Also if it is a CRT set there is alot more items to mess up.

Norm

yes there are ways you can screw up a set in the service menu. on the current Mitsubishi sets, for example, if you lower a setting all the way down it can freeze itself into that position even if you raise the setting. it can be recovered as I figured out but it can be scary. also, some people have had there settings jump to a point that is way out of the correct range and have found that the numbers don't come down to the correct position. they had to have there sets repaired to fix it.

I have royally screwed a samsung plasma in the past because I didn't know what i was doing and found some settings changed other settings and I didn't wright down those other settings because I didn't know they would change so I couldn't get them rite again.

I have heard of some older Mitsubishis having there memory hosed if you accidentally pressed a certain button on the remote while in the service menu. so defiantly be careful.

I will say the current Mitsubishi service menu seems to be very forgiving.

I recently purchased a wd-60735 from best buy and i see it needs to be calibrated. I have read a few posts in this forum and i was wondering has anbody tried Ksbarnz calibration? with a 60 inch?... i would really like to try this soon so please let me know since the wd60735 doesnt have perfect tint nor

I recently purchased a wd-60735 from best buy and i see it needs to be calibrated. I have read a few posts in this forum and i was wondering has anbody tried Ksbarnz calibration? with a 60 inch?... i would really like to try this soon so please let me know since the wd60735 doesnt have perfect tint nor

You may not have read the post that indicated your mileage will vary using settings from another person's calibration. Two reason for this - difference in viewing environment, and variations in the consumer-grade components used to build each set. That being said, there's no harm in trying as long as you tread carefully while in the Service Menu.

Assuming you have Bluray capability, I'd strongly suggest buying the HD Digital Video Essentials disk to use and have on hand - one of the best values out there. Set your own Contrast and Brightness (which are the two biggies) after selecting Natural and Low on your Mits. Try and keep your Contrast under 40 if you can. Watch it for a week or two, then if you want, try other's settings and see if anything changes to your eye. You won't really know how close you are on Gray Scale and Color Gamut unless you put a meter on it, but what really matters is how it looks to you. Just make sure you write down ALL of your Service Menu values before you begin so you can go back when necessary.

Also realize the picture will change pretty noticeably (at least on mine it did) in the first 100 - 150 hours on the bulb and really doesn't settle in until 200 or more. As such, be prepared to tweak.

Enjoy,

Doug

I just bought a 65835 and it will be delivered on Thursday. I am set up to have a calibration done in a couple of months. Are there any adjustments I need to do at first or just leave it alone until the calibration? I am a newbie, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Read the forum, that's what its for. All your questions are answered already.

Read the forum, that's what its for. All your questions are answered already.
A well known NASCAR race car and a good old country boy(respectfully stated) at at heart once after a bad race and in a pretty bad mood gracefully and politely said: "Mama told me that if I don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all". :rolleyes:

well, my comment was not meant in a negative tone, but simply to inform the person that these questions are answered and that the best option for obtaining those answers is to review the thread. its not like he would have to dig ether. some answers are on the very first post. The Mitsubishi manual even has some recommended settings in it .

just for the sake of being nice I will say you should put your contrast to 31, sharpness to 31, turn all extra features such as smooth120,deepfield imager,etc off. put color temp on low, make sure the lamp is on normal mode and picture mode is on natural.
you can put the rest of the stuff where you like it best until the calibration.

one thing to be aware of is the tv will not put out full 1080p until the keystone correction is turned off. the calibrator may not be aware of this so just remind him. all he has to do is go into the manual keystone correction,press enter than exit to do this.

sorry if i come of rude.

Thanks ksbarnz for making this thread.
I bought my 73735 a few months ago and have not been happy with the picture.
I will be buying the i1 and getting the software soon to calibrate my tv. But for now I just used your setting you posted in your first post and I have to say my picture is already 100% better:)
Can't wait to see just how much better it can possibly get.
But I do have one question.
The first thing that shows up in my service menu lets you adjust the picture up and down and sideways. While doing this I noticed that I have to move the picture at least 2" any direction to see the edges of it. I had thought my tv was over scanning to much already since when I run my computer through it all my icons alone the edges dissapear.
So my question is does anyone know how do adjust the over scanning on these sets?

Thanks

Is there anything else I can do to get my blue down to 709 levels. I can't figure out the y to lower it any more. Any other thoughts would be good to make sure i didnt miss anything. This is my first calibration since i got my i1 display with colorhcfr

Is there anything else I can do to get my blue down to 709 levels. I can't figure out the y to lower it any more. Any other thoughts would be good to make sure i didnt miss anything. This is my first calibration since i got my i1 display with colorhcfr

These sets have a problem with Blues. Have you tried using the Perfect Color control to drop Y?

This is one of the best all around Cals I've seen - great job! I'd really be interested in seeing your User and Service Menu settings if you wouldn't mind posting them. I just put mine in the information block in the .chc file for reference. Are you using Low Color Temp and Natural Picture mode? What model set is this?

How does it look to your eye? Are the Blues (Blue and Cyan) hot? Any Red push? I did notice your Y (big Y) value for green is low at about 33% when it should be around 71%, right? You're also at around 45 ftL as opposed to the 30 - 40 recommended. Did you set it a little high on purpose or did it just turn out that way?

In any case - at least on paper - this looks really good. Much better than I've been able to get so far in dinking around - but I'm fairly happy with the PQ. If you could share your settings that would be great.
Cheers,

Doug

Is there anything else I can do to get my blue down to 709 levels. I can't figure out the y to lower it any more. Any other thoughts would be good to make sure i didnt miss anything. This is my first calibration since i got my i1 display with colorhcfr

I have never had any problem with the Y for a color because the perfectcolor and service menu control give me plenty of adjustment room. the real issue is saturation. blue will not saturate enough to meet its color point on the CIE diagram. the control for saturation is only in the service menu and its problematic because you can only adjust it down form its default setting. the only way to compensate for this is to push up the color control but this effects all colors at once and just barely gets you enough to dial in the other colors. blue seems to just be under saturated and it just will not dial in without seriously effecting other colors.


looking at your calibration data I will say you gray scale and gamma look good as well as your CIE color points but your color luminance is WAY off. look at your delta E. the only color that's exeptable is red. your delta luma value will tell you the precentage over ore undersaturated you are from your target value. use your delta e as a indication of accuracy and your delta luma to know what way to go and how close your getting.

one thing to remember is that if a color point is to far off in its xy value with color hcfr you will need to throw the math out the window and trust your delta e do to the way color hcfr use calculating your data. basically you are going to need to make adjustments outside of the standard for luminance based on delta to compensate for any inaccuracy that may develop in the xy values.

Hey I re-did everything yesterday as in my first calibration I forgot about the Y value on the colors and only focused on the xy :)

Now all my delta E for color are below 10 and the PICTURE looks much better. I also lowered my ftl to 39 which gave me more room to properly adjust the Y values. My gray scale is the same delta E avg 1 and below with better picture quality. I will post my new calibration later on tonight or tomorrow and post my service menu settings.

go for 40 ftl. if you watch in a room with a lamp on go for 30ftl for watching with no lights on.

Here is my updated calibration. I tweaked it for about 40 ftl and got the delta E in line for all the colors. I also will tweak the gray again tonight which I forgot to do. let me know if I am missing anything.

Also does anyone have Calman and if so is it worth it? Will I see any difference between ColorHCFR and calman?

Here is my updated calibration. I tweaked it for about 40 ftl and got the delta E in line for all the colors. I also will tweak the gray again tonight which I forgot to do. let me know if I am missing anything.

Also does anyone have Calman and if so is it worth it? Will I see any difference between ColorHCFR and calman?

Looks good to me - I'd take it in a heartbeat.

I've got CalMAN and HCFR. The biggest differences (besides the graph layout flexibility) I notice in CalMAN are:

* Workflow is in the program as help info and step-by-step actions
* You have a choice of delta E formulas
* It doesn't hang on measurements like HCFR sometimes does

I use both when tweaking - HCFR more for Grayscale as CalMAN doesn't have the cool little RGB level graphs for each IRE level, and CalMAN for Color. If you don't have any problem with measurement hangs and are happy with the info you get from HCFR, you probably wouldn't find CalMAN to be a big step up for the money. You can download CalMAN and play with it using a simulated meter (can't take actual measurements from your i1 without a key) if you want to see how it stacks up.

If you have the time, I'd really like to see your User and SM settings as for the life of me, I can't get my Red xy set correctly and when Y is set at 21% I get quite a bit of Red Push. I've also backed down on my PC Blue and Cyan as when they were set "correctly", the display had the "neon" look for Blues.

Thanks and good job,

Doug

Can someone explain a little better the idea of not be able to get 1080p if you do not change the Keystone to manual mode. I did this by going into the Keystone menu, hitting enter, then exit. The problem is, after I did this the left side of the screen has a definite pincushion effect. Also, the red, green, blue lines on the sides of the screen on the Keystone test pattern... there are quite a few more on the left side than the right side. Does this mean I have to move my picture left? If so, how do I do that?

Just so I am sure, there is no focus for the television, right? My picture just seem so be too blurry.

Your set probably seems blurry because its a hdtv displaying standard def material, right? This happens for a couple of reasons. I'll explain.

The 480 line resolution has to be scaled to the our tv's native 1080p resolution before it can be displayed and this scaling process can cause a blurring of the image. This is just a byproduct of the fact that your set is a fixed pixel display. Meaning, it can only really display one resolution (1080p) where as an old CRT based display could actually, natively display a real 480(I)(P) resolution thus giving you a sharper image in many cases do to the lack of scaling.

Another reason standard def may look blurrier is because of image size. On a smaller set the details would appear sharper because the pixels are actually smaller. if you had a 65 inch set with the same size pixels as say a 32 inch set that 65 inch set would have way beyond 1080p resolution. look at it like this, imagine you have a image that is a quarter the size of the full screen of these sets being displayed on your set. The rest of the image would be black. That image would be about the same size as many consumer sets, Right? Now, imagine you could open up that image so you could see more of what was being focused on in the scene so that it wold fill the screen. that would be a lot more picture information and constitute a high def image. It would still look just as sharp as the original quarter screen sized image, there would just be a lot more new information to look at. Now, imagine you just stretched that same small quarter screen sized image to fill the screen instead of expanding it as I described in this totally fictional scenario. The image, as it was being stretched, would look blurrier and blurrier because you aren't adding information, you are just making that same small image cover a larger area.

You can't get more resolution than what is there to begin with. This is a common misunderstanding among many average Joe consumers that just assume if he buys a high def set he's going to be seeing high def. He doesn't realize that you have to feed the TV true high def source material to be seeing high definition. this misconception is also why there is such a huge market in upscale DVD players . These are just snake oil, in my opinion,and serve to confuse the average Joe even further. The only benefit to be gained from theses kinds of DVD players is perhaps better processing if the dvd player happens to have a better scaler than your own set does. It doesn't increase disable resolution PERIOD.

Our sets where made for 1080p high resolution viewing. Anything other than 1080p is causing the display to have to compromise its capabilities and do something outside what it was really made for. Remember, this set is a fixed pixel 1080p set.

If you want to watch standard def and get the best image you should get a good standard def set. If you want to watch high def and have it look good, get a good high def set.

We are in a transition right now and one day all programming will be high def and our tvs will no longer have need for this backward compatibility. On that day all content will finally look good on our HDTV.

Now,on to your question about the pin cushioning you see. This is what happens when you turn on the manual keystone adjustment. what you are really doing is turning off the auto keystone adjustment that these sets have on by default. this auto keystone correction straitens the geometry to compensate for bowing of the image that has been introduced to Mitsubishi's 08 sets do to the slim cabinet. Thanks to the craze for flatter TVs, Mitsubishi has put style before substance. Anyway, you will see more bowing with this adjustment made but you will also now get full 1080p resolution. You have to decide which is the greater of the two evils. Lower resolution or a slightly bowed image. I wont tell you which one to go with. That's a personal choice.

To reposition your screen so its centered, you simply go into the service menu and the first option that appears is your panning adjustment. I cant remember what it's called right now but its labeled 1. Use your remote control's courser keys to move the image around and press the enter key to lock it in.

There will be about a 2% overscan on your set that cant be corrected. This is just the nature of a rear projection set.

I hope this helps.

Hey Doug,

Below you will find my settings along with my final calibration which looks very nice. My gray scale and color delta E are very good and the picture looks very natural. Hopefully this helps you with your endeavor in adjusting your set. Also, is there a trial version of calMAN that I can use with my D2? I don't want to pay for it if it's not going to be a big upgrade for dialing in my settings.

Perfect Color
40
36
34
46
36
30

Color 31
Tint 25
Contrast 17
Brightness 30
Color Temp Low
Video Noise off
Deep Field Imager Off
Sharpness 31

ggl 992
grl 1040
gbl 1057
grl 128
srl 128
hrl 20
ggl 128
sgl 128
hgl 23
gbl 106
sbl 128
hbl 0
gcl 126
scl 85
hcl 0
gml 128
sml 128
hml 81
gyl 125
syl 110
hyl 80
grwl 128
ggwl 118
gbwl 118
bmg 0
bmr 0
bmb 65535
ofg 0
ofr 3
ofb 65533
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 150
idl 36
dbk 1

Hey Doug,

Below you will find my settings along with my final calibration which looks very nice. My gray scale and color delta E are very good and the picture looks very natural. Hopefully this helps you with your endeavor in adjusting your set. Also, is there a trial version of calMAN that I can use with my D2? I don't want to pay for it if it's not going to be a big upgrade for dialing in my settings.

Perfect Color
40
36
34
46
36
30

Color 31
Tint 25
Contrast 17
Brightness 30
Color Temp Low
Video Noise off
Deep Field Imager Off
Sharpness 31

ggl 992
grl 1040
gbl 1057
grl 128
srl 128
hrl 20
ggl 128
sgl 128
hgl 23
gbl 106
sbl 128
hbl 0
gcl 126
scl 85
hcl 0
gml 128
sml 128
hml 81
gyl 125
syl 110
hyl 80
grwl 128
ggwl 118
gbwl 118
bmg 0
bmr 0
bmb 65535
ofg 0
ofr 3
ofb 65533
cmg 150
cmr 150
cmb 150
idl 36
dbk 1

Thanks much for your settings. :)

One thing I noticed is your CMG, CMR and CMB values are at 150 (maxed out?) and I believe the default is 100 which is where mine are since I didn't change them. Can you share some insight on why you used those and what effect they had on the picture? Use them in Color or Grayscale (I'm guessing Color)? I also see you have lowered Contrast to 17 which is way low - I assume because of the CMx values being raised?

Also I see you used the GRWL, GGWL and GBWL entries which I left alone. Did you use those for high-end Grayscale along with the GGL, GRL and GBL controls?

I'm also assuming you are using Natural picture mode?

You can go to the CalMAN page http://www.spectracal.com/ and download a trial copy which I think is a full copy but you can't use a real meter (they have a simulated meter in the package). It can give you an idea about the capabilities of the package but you can't really use it for real measurements without a key.

Personally, I really don't think you need it unless you just want to play given where you have your set at the moment.

Thanks again,

Doug

Hey all,

I just graduated from a Mitsubishi WS65813 to a WD 73735.

I happenned to pay $1580 this past weekend for this behemoth.

On my previous Mitsubishi I streamed all my HDTV shows recorded with my HDTV tuner card to the TV via Component through my Radeon x800 card.

The Mitsubishi resolution I used with it was 1776 x 1000 at 30 HZ and there was no overscan or underscan JUST perfect.

Now with the new TV, it won't even see component from either the two rear inputs or the front input.

So, I tried connecting my PC through the same ol' ati Radeon x800 card but this time with DVI out via a HDMI adapter feeding into the new WD73735 at 1920 x 1080 @60HZ

First observations, bright at 60 HZ, no flicker whatsoever and blu ray 1080p test files playing perfectly.

However the following problems do occur:

PC desktop is overscanned with corners off the screen .
HDTV recordings (Like Ghost Whisperer recorded with my fusion HD card) terribly overscanned with the cbs logo barely visible and heads cutoff.

720 x 480 DVD content even worse.

I tried changing resolutions to 1776 x 1000 at both interlaced and Non interlaced, a little better but stilloverscanned with the logo partially off the screen.

Is there a reason why component video is not sensed by the TV?

Is there a way to sync the new TV to ther PC with a scanned picture close to what i had on my older Mitsubishi?

Thanks in advance!

Jeff

I appreciate your thoughtful response but the blurriness is mostly observed with HD broadcasts. I expect the blurriness with SD televisions. As far as the Keystone corrections goes, I am not sure why the setting being on auto would have an effect on 1080p. Also, if you take it off of auto, how can you manually fix it?

I could try to explain why the auto keystone correction destroys the 1:1 pixel relationship but I think its sufficient to just state emphatically that it does. You can check it with a 1080p resolution test pattern for yourself if you have any doubts. There's one on the DVE HD calibration disk that was released on Blueray and HDDVD.

To turn of the keystone correction, press menu 2457 on your remote. Once in the service menu, press 0. This will bring up a menu where you will want to scroll down with the remote courser to the manual keystone correction option and press enter. This will bring up the keystone adjustment window as you described in your earlier post. Now, simply press the enter key and then exit out of the service menu with the exit key. That's all that you need to do.

If you have messed with this manual keystone adjustment at an earlier time, you may want to select the option to restore the keystone from backup before proceeding with the previous instructions, just to be sure everything takes.

IF your cable reception is blurry I would blame the cable company and /or the cable equipment. My over the air HD broadcasts are very sharp. Have you used your set on any other high def material to rule this out?

Hey Doug,

I set the CM values to 150 to help me get the proper Y value at a low contrast setting. I could have kept it at 100 or 125 but during my tweaking it was easier at 150. That way if my Y value was too high while adjusting the x and y values I could just turn down the gain on each primary color.

As for the GRWL, GGWL and GBWL values, they were at these settings and were not touched by me. I changed them but did not see any difference in my gray scale or color gamut so I kept them where they were. And yes my TV is Natural with a low color temp. Hopefully this helps and I will probably stick with colorHCFR as I don't think I can get a better looking picture with calMAN.

Hey Doug,

I set the CM values to 150 to help me get the proper Y value at a low contrast setting. I could have kept it at 100 or 125 but during my tweaking it was easier at 150. That way if my Y value was too high while adjusting the x and y values I could just turn down the gain on each primary color.

As for the GRWL, GGWL and GBWL values, they were at these settings and were not touched by me. I changed them but did not see any difference in my gray scale or color gamut so I kept them where they were. And yes my TV is Natural with a low color temp. Hopefully this helps and I will probably stick with colorHCFR as I don't think I can get a better looking picture with calMAN.

Cool - thanks again for the info and enjoy your set!

Doug

Ok I ordered an Eye One to do my cal.
But looking at the CalMan software it cost $199
Is there any other software out there that works as good with a Wizard like CalMan and won't cost me $199?

New to this forum, and just recently bought a WD-73735 Mits. Can anyone tell me the optimal settings for this set? I have scanned through all 20 pages of this thread and cannot find it for this model.

Rreading everyones post really blows me away. I had no idea that there was this much tweaking and tuning on these sets.

I have done nothing but took it out of the box and set it up. I have had it for 2-weeks. Remember I am a green newbie at this.

Thanks for any help. :)

Jimmy

I feel like I have mixed different peoples settings.. i know everyone loves to say borg.cubes calibration but I cant even seem to find what he changed in the service menu.. just his Perfect color and Perfect tint settings.. my sets colors seem dull and even better out of the box now..

hi, need to know if anyone; on my 73835 i've been noticing light blurs or light pulses on bright scenes. anyone fimiliar with this issue????

I could try to explain why the auto keystone correction destroys the 1:1 pixel relationship but I think its sufficient to just state emphatically that it does. You can check it with a 1080p resolution test pattern for yourself if you have any doubts. There's one on the DVE HD calibration disk that was released on Blueray and HDDVD.

To turn of the keystone correction, press menu 2457 on your remote. Once in the service menu, press 0. This will bring up a menu where you will want to scroll down with the remote courser to the manual keystone correction option and press enter. This will bring up the keystone adjustment window as you described in your earlier post. Now, simply press the enter key and then exit out of the service menu with the exit key. That's all that you need to do.

If you have messed with this manual keystone adjustment at an earlier time, you may want to select the option to restore the keystone from backup before proceeding with the previous instructions, just to be sure everything takes.

IF your cable reception is blurry I would blame the cable company and /or the cable equipment. My over the air HD broadcasts are very sharp. Have you used your set on any other high def material to rule this out?

My reception is via DirecTv with an HR22 HD-DVR. Just to expand a bit on the keystone thing, If I were to do any manual correction to the pincushioning on the left side, I would lose true 1080p? If I did want to do manual correction, how do I do it? I assumed it was with the arrow buttons but do not know how to select where I am adjusting and did not want to start mashing buttons in the service menu. Also, how do I shift the picture left?

So I had the Geek Squad guy out to look at my TV. I have a red glow that shows up at certain gray scale tones. The red glow starts at the bottom center of the TV and is about a half inch wide. It travels straight up for about 10 inches then bifurcates to a Y until it fades. The Geek Squad initially said it was probably from the source (my Direct TV box). He hooked up a box to my TV that showed patterns and different degrees of gray scale. The red glow did not show up. But then I put a DVD into the PS3 and it showed up. The Geek Squad guy said it was probably light leaking from the projection unit so he said he would order a new one. I also have some specks on my screen that he could not clean off, so when he comes back out to do the part replacement we are going to try to figure out where the specks are coming from. I had a much better experience with this Geek Squad guy than any of the other ones.

I have this red line you speak of as well. it isn't there during normal viewing but it will appear when the set shows the little info window displaying what resolution its in when it first switches resolution but only if its against a black background.

New to this forum, and just recently bought a WD-73735 Mits. Can anyone tell me the optimal settings for this set? I have scanned through all 20 pages of this thread and cannot find it for this model.
Hi Jimmy, I have this exact same model set but settings will vary from set to set based on a number of factors. Here are my settings you can use as a guide to see if this works for you. (Just write down all of your original settings to ensure you can go back if need be.)

73735 Settings:
Natural
Contrast: 34
Brightness: 36
Color: 42
Tint: 29
Sharpness: 31
Temp: Low
Noise: Off

Perfect Color:
M: 29
R: 31
Y: 36
G: 45
C: 35
B: 23

Hope that helps. Cheers.

Just curious:

What did you pay for this model, also when did you buy it and where?

I paid $1,580 here on Long Island
.

does anyone elses WD-73835 actually forget your user setting but keeps the service menu settings.. it has happened to me every single time i leave the set off for the night.

does anyone elses WD-73835 actually forget your user setting but keeps the service menu settings.. it has happened to me every single time i leave the set off for the night.

If by 'user settings' you mean picture settings etc ; mine 'remembers' my settings. I have the 73835

yeah all those setting go back to default

does anyone elses WD-73835 actually forget your user setting but keeps the service menu settings.. it has happened to me every single time i leave the set off for the night.

If your input is labeled AVR this is a known phenomenon - but not a bug. You can either use a different name or do a search/read your manual on how to actually complete the setup of that input. The lack of completing the setup is what causes the setting to get lost. I can't remember if it is covered in this thread or the actual owner's thread, but it is there.

Ok I ordered an Eye One to do my cal.
But looking at the CalMan software it cost $199
Is there any other software out there that works as good with a Wizard like CalMan and won't cost me $199?

See this guide for workflow and tutorial http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

and this link for the HCFR software (CalMAN substitute) http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/HCFR_Setup_v2_0_1.exe

Also, how do I shift the picture left?

You can move the entire picture left, right, up, and down by pressing MENU 2457. The first thing that pops up is your Horizontal and Vertical adjustments, just use the arrows on the remote to make the appropriate adjustments, press enter, and then press exit. It is best if you have a test pattern on the screen.

Just curious:

What did you pay for this model, also when did you buy it and where?

I paid $1,580 here on Long Island
.

Technically I paid $4,295.00 for this set back in 2004. I got the 65736 as a replacement. Pissed me off when Fry's wouldn't give me a Diamond Series. I can't really complain, I could still have a $4K, 62", 1 HDMI, 1080i TV in the living room.

If I did want to do manual correction, how do I do it?

Some may know this, but for those who don't. Minor tilt and picture alignment issues can sometime be corrected by gently, very gently, moving/twisting/pushing/pulling the top corners of the screen in different directions (i.e. pull toward the room with right hand and push toward wall with left hand.

Just curious:

What did you pay for this model, also when did you buy it and where?

I paid $1,580 here on Long Island
.

I paid 1,799 with free shipping and no tax from onecall.com. I also have 2 years no payments no interest through Mits financing. :)

Jimmy

Hi Jimmy, I have this exact same model set but settings will vary from set to set based on a number of factors. Here are my settings you can use as a guide to see if this works for you. (Just write down all of your original settings to ensure you can go back if need be.)

73735 Settings:
Natural
Contrast: 34
Brightness: 36
Color: 42
Tint: 29
Sharpness: 31
Temp: Low
Noise: Off

Perfect Color:
M: 29
R: 31
Y: 36
G: 45
C: 35
B: 23

Hope that helps. Cheers.


Thanks for the setting inaka. I will try these tomorrow night.

Jimmy

does anyone elses WD-73835 actually forget your user setting but keeps the service menu settings.. it has happened to me every single time i leave the set off for the night.

Do a search on my posts, I will take credit for discovering the answer to this issue.

Thanks for the setting inaka. I will try these tomorrow night.

Jimmy
Cool, hope it helps. Let us know if there's an improvement or if you have other settings that work best for your display.

I know all settings need to be different for each display, but it's nice to see if they are in the same ballpark along identical product lines, etc.

Just FYI, the settings I posted for the 73735 when watching 1080i cable tv, etc. I have slightly different settings I use for bluray via the PS3 based on a HD test patterns from the PS3, but they're pretty close.

I have this red line you speak of as well. it isn't there during normal viewing but it will appear when the set shows the little info window displaying what resolution its in when it first switches resolution but only if its against a black background.

Mine is visible more often. There was a particular scene in Eagle Eye I was watching from an HD download from the Play Station Store. Incidentally, the last calibration settings that you posted were fantastic. I have tried a number of calibration settings that others have posted, including the ones you originally posted, and all of them looked pretty bad on my set. The last ones you posted have worked out really well. I increased the sharpness from yours and decreased color to 39. I am almost thinking I can cancel my Geek Squad calibration.

I am still bothered by a lack of focus. There has got to be a focus setting on this machine.

I have asked this a couple of times but have not gotten a good response. When I go into the manual keystone correction, on the right side of the screen I see one yellow and one green line extending from top to bottom. On the left side I see one yellow, one green, one white, and one red line. I assume this is because my picture is shifted too far to the right. In addition to this, I have one yellow horizontal line that disappears in the corners at the top and one yellow, one green, one white, and one red horizontal line that are at the bottom, so I assume my picture is shifted too high to the top as well.

How do I adjust this? I know the first setting is the HVPOS and I assume that mean horizontal/vertical positions, but how does increasing or decreasing this number affect the picture. I would assume an adjustment doesn't effect both horizontal and vertical at the same time.

Also, what are the buttons to manually adjust the keystone corrections?

Quick question for those using the DVE Basics tri-color decoder to set their perfectcolor on the 736 series.

I've adjusted as far as I could without venturing into the service menu. In the HD color pattern (the two bars of 6). I can get the Blues and the Reds to match with M, R, C, and B settings fairly close to where others in the thread are, as per what the disc says it should. But I cannot get the greens to match at all (Y, G, C), nor can I even get Green to match the reference color in the background. Right now my G level sits at 47.

Here is where I sit now:

Magenta: 35
Red: 35
Yellow: 41
Green: 47
Cyan: 24
Blue: 31

Rest of my settings are as such.

Picture: Natural
Color Temp: Low
Deep Field: On
Video Noise: Off
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 31
Color: 31
Tint:31

When I adjust Cyan and Yellow to try and match Green it throws them off the Red pattern. Am I missing making the overall adjustments or am I really going to have to work inside the service menu? I've moved the Color and Tint around and it didn't do much for the Greens. Or is there simply a flaw in the DVE calibration that I should just use something else?

Thanks

I just ordered a 65736 from Amazon and am extremely excited to be receiving my first HD and first large TV.

Any advice for a noob for things I should do/not do when the delivery guys get here with it?

Quick question for those using the DVE Basics tri-color decoder to set their perfectcolor on the 736 series.

I've adjusted as far as I could without venturing into the service menu. In the HD color pattern (the two bars of 6). I can get the Blues and the Reds to match with M, R, C, and B settings fairly close to where others in the thread are, as per what the disc says it should. But I cannot get the greens to match at all (Y, G, C), nor can I even get Green to match the reference color in the background. Right now my G level sits at 47.

I couldn't get my 65736 to balance out either when just using the DVE disk. I plugged in ksbarnz service menu settings (ggl --> dbk) on the first post of this thread and then used the DVE disk to tweak the perfect color settings and other menu settings. Balancing out the perfect color settings with the tri-color decoder was a lot easier after changing the service menu settings. I am very pleased with the results. Give the service menu settings a try, just write down your factory settings in case you want to go back.

I have asked this a couple of times but have not gotten a good response. When I go into the manual keystone correction, on the right side of the screen I see one yellow and one green line extending from top to bottom. On the left side I see one yellow, one green, one white, and one red line. I assume this is because my picture is shifted too far to the right. In addition to this, I have one yellow horizontal line that disappears in the corners at the top and one yellow, one green, one white, and one red horizontal line that are at the bottom, so I assume my picture is shifted too high to the top as well.

How do I adjust this? I know the first setting is the HVPOS and I assume that mean horizontal/vertical positions, but how does increasing or decreasing this number affect the picture. I would assume an adjustment doesn't effect both horizontal and vertical at the same time.

Also, what are the buttons to manually adjust the keystone corrections?

Yes, your picture is shifted both to the right and up from center. These TVs have quite a bit of overscan, more than any TV I have fiddled with. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think the ideal setting would to have the red line either barely visible or just one notch off the screen, on all sides. I have only tried messing with the keystone adjustments two or three times. Even though I was careful to make equal adjustments to each point, the lines wouldn't stay straight and would start to bow. Anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone been able to get the red lines to show on all sides?

When the HVPOS is on the screen you can use the up, down, left, and right buttons on your remote to change the two sets of numbers listed below HVPOS. This will allow you to center your picture if you so choose.

I couldn't get my 65736 to balance out either when just using the DVE disk. I plugged in ksbarnz service menu settings (ggl --> dbk) on the first post of this thread and then used the DVE disk to tweak the perfect color settings and other menu settings. Balancing out the perfect color settings with the tri-color decoder was a lot easier after changing the service menu settings. I am very pleased with the results. Give the service menu settings a try, just write down your factory settings in case you want to go back.

Thanks DubC. I am going to give that a shot tonight. It's really bizarre that it's only green that won't line up to the green filter. However, as I began doing some research, I am reading that some TV's today just don't know how to decode green well, and I'm apparently not the only one who gets off results with the green filter.

The red and blue filters I got to match the reference almost dead on. That's without having the move the master color or tint bars. I would have to figure perfectcolor gives you more control over simple red/green. And while I didn't get a lot of blooming on the reverse greyscale pattern I brought down the contrast just because we watch in a dark room.

Thanks DubC. I am going to give that a shot tonight. It's really bizarre that it's only green that won't line up to the green filter. However, as I began doing some research, I am reading that some TV's today just don't know how to decode green well, and I'm apparently not the only one who gets off results with the green filter.

The red and blue filters I got to match the reference almost dead on. That's without having the move the master color or tint bars. I would have to figure perfectcolor gives you more control over simple red/green. And while I didn't get a lot of blooming on the reverse greyscale pattern I brought down the contrast just because we watch in a dark room.

I remember the guy who calibrated my 835 saying that he had had a real tough time with green. Which I thought odd as many people here were saying that blue was more the issue.

Seggers

I remember the guy who calibrated my 835 saying that he had had a real tough time with green. Which I thought odd as many people here were saying that blue was more the issue.

Seggers

It's the wierdest thing. The blues matched up really well, and then from there I matched Red equally well. I can even get yellow to match to the red filter.

I couldn't get my 65736 to balance out either when just using the DVE disk. I plugged in ksbarnz service menu settings (ggl --> dbk) on the first post of this thread and then used the DVE disk to tweak the perfect color settings and other menu settings. Balancing out the perfect color settings with the tri-color decoder was a lot easier after changing the service menu settings. I am very pleased with the results. Give the service menu settings a try, just write down your factory settings in case you want to go back.

Ok, I used ksbarnz presets in the service menu. Now I see why people's contrast levels were down in the 10-20 range!! Bumping up the CMG/R/B just that little bit started showing the clipping I wasn't seeing in the reverse pattern on the disc even at Mitsubishi's default contrast of 63.

Now, here is the kicker. Reds are fine, blues are fine. In fact I think the picture is a little more robust in those colors.

Green? Still can't get it. I'm starting to think it's the filter, and DVE just doesn't calibrate greens very well at all.

Anyway, here are my new settings:

Color: 31
Tint: 25 (Will probably put this back to 31 just because I am balancing with the perfectcolor)
Brightness: 28
Contrast: 15


Perfectcolor
M: 37
R: 33
Y: 44
G: 45
C: 34
B: 30

I'm going to be testing some more movies and our usual shows tonight to see how it looks. Heroes last week looked excellent.

OK, I have the picture balanced out now, I just have a couple more questions...

1) Can you reduce the overscan?

2) How do you effect change in the pincushion? Now I understand how to move the picture left/right and up/down, I still do not understand how to adjust the bowing/pincushion

OK, I have the picture balanced out now, I just have a couple more questions...

1) Can you reduce the overscan?

2) How do you effect change in the pincushion? Now I understand how to move the picture left/right and up/down, I still do not understand how to adjust the bowing/pincushion

Have you tried moving the top corners of the TV? Put your hands on the top corners and gently push and pull on the corners. The same is true for the sides of the TV. The cabinet is not very sturdy and you can manipulate the geometry with a little push and pull. Pull up one of the geometry screens in the menu and give it a try.

I too would love to hear if someone was able to reduce the overscan.

I too would love to hear if someone was able to reduce the overscan.

Unfortunatly, there is no way to remove the overscan on the TV. If you where using a computer as your signal source you could potentially scale the picture down or change the resolution but you would not be getting a 1:1 Pixel relationship between the TV and your content. You may even be able to remove the overscan with a video processor but I cant say for sure from experiance. All rear projections have some degree of over scan and at just a little over 2% over scan, these sets actually have very little, all thing being considered.

As far as the bowing of the image goes, I haven't been able to null this out and quite honestly, even if you could, you would, once again be destroying the 1:1 pixel relationship. This would, in effect, mean that your picture resolution will not be true 1080p. How much you will be able to detect this in real world material is debatable but its definatly noticeable in test patterns. pick the lesser of two evils.

It looks to me like the manual keystone adjustment is broken. I certainly cant get it to do anything meaningful. You can move the cursor around the perimeter of the screen by pressing the fast forward and rewind keys on your remote and you can move the cursor back and forth at each position with the remote's directional buttons but it doesn't seem to effect the geometry in any way that's useful.

I recommend you center your picture and live with the bowing because having the auto keystone correction enabled definatly diminishes resolution and introduces artifacts and left on, its still going to bow the picture to some degree.

Just my two cents.

Cid67 I would love to see a picture of your un-corrected keystone screen. My bowing is quite significant without the correction.

Here is some images. One is the keystone adjustment screen with no correction.
The others are from a general pattern for assessing gray scale, resolution, and geometry. The close ups are showing the effects of having keystone correction on vs off. Its hard to see because of my crappy camera but it should be enough to tell the difference.

when commenting Ill just go ahead a say that the picture looks much better than what is being shown. My camera is throwing everything off.

I always have to say this because there is inevitably some yahoo who will go, "dude, your gray scale is off".

Welp. I have decided to start the process over again. It may just be me, and I may have been trying to get my greens to calibrate correctly so much that now I think I'm seeing even a faint green tint to certain people's skintone in TV shows and such. And while I think it's all in my mind, I'm going to try this the real way.

Turns out, my boss at my job happens to have a SpyderTV meter and lent it to me. So I reset all my service menu settings back to their defaults, and I am going to take a shot at the HCFR or Calman software and see if I can get these damn greens to line up!

Wish me luck.

Got my 73835 and am having a problem getting a handshake between my RCA DVD player (HDMI) and the Mitsu. The RCA is connected via HDMI to my Onkyo 876 AVR and then from the Onkyo to the Mitsu (with a single HDMI connection from Onkyo to the Mitsu). Also connected to the Onkyo via HDMI is my cable box and ROKU (none of which has a problem). I tried connecting the RCA directly to the Mitsu and still no handshake. I pulled the RCA out and connected it via HDMI using the same cable) to 2 other TVs and they both worked fine.

I should add that a SONY RPTV preceded the Mitsu and the RCA worked fine with it even though the RCA was connected the SONY via DVI with an HDMI adapter at one end for the RCA.

Any ideas?

Jim

Ok. I think I'm well on my way here. I finished the grayscale calibration with the HCFR software and the spyder sensor. I was kind of impressed with how close the set was, but it was still off enough that I had to make some changes:

GRL: 1096
BMR: 7
BMB: 65526
CMG: 110
CMR: 110
CMB: 110

(Everything else remains at default)

Contrast: 50
Brightness: 31

I popped in Ratatouille BD and the picture looks really nice!

Before I go launching into colors (I am determined to get green right on this set!), if anyone is still hanging around the thread take a peek at my grayscale. There isn't any color info in the file yet. Will I have to recalibrate the grayscale once I get the colors in line?

Edit: BTW, I calibrated it at 30ftl, and the Gamma ended up at 2.27.

Got my 73835 and am having a problem getting a handshake between my RCA DVD player (HDMI) and the Mitsu. The RCA is connected via HDMI to my Onkyo 876 AVR and then from the Onkyo to the Mitsu (with a single HDMI connection from Onkyo to the Mitsu). Also connected to the Onkyo via HDMI is my cable box and ROKU (none of which has a problem). I tried connecting the RCA directly to the Mitsu and still no handshake. I pulled the RCA out and connected it via HDMI using the same cable) to 2 other TVs and they both worked fine.

I should add that a SONY RPTV preceded the Mitsu and the RCA worked fine with it even though the RCA was connected the SONY via DVI with an HDMI adapter at one end for the RCA.

Any ideas?

Jim

Make sure the issue is not the HDMI port. Switch a component that you are certain is working into the HDMI port you are trying to use for the RCA DVD

Make sure the issue is not the HDMI port. Switch a component that you are certain is working into the HDMI port you are trying to use for the RCA DVD


Thanks, but I already tried 2 different ports on the Mitsu and likewise on the Onkyo.


Jim

Ok. Since this thread has died out, I'm posting my final calibration for anyone who wants to give advice. I went back and recalibrated EVERYTHING based on the AVRHD 709 disc since for some reason the patterns on there gave off different luminance readings. I'm calibrated though at about 31ftl.

I got the grayscale almost dead on from about 20IRE to 100IRE. DeltaE readings also drop below 2 at that point. Luminance is dead on, and I'm at 2.24 gamma (although it shoots up a little at the high end), Color temp is right on.

I got as close as I could with the primary and secondary colors. Instead of moving color and tint, I did a combination of perfectcolor and service menu tweaks to the colors. However, most of the time I could get x right on but y would be off by up to .05. For example you'll see Red at x=.640, but y=.333 (and it should be .330). I just couldn't get them all to match up.

Also a couple of colors had different readings than I left them, like Green. I had Green's x right, but when it did the slow readings it seemed to lower the numbers.

Anyway, here it is.

Ok. Since this thread has died out, I'm posting my final calibration for anyone who wants to give advice. I went back and recalibrated EVERYTHING based on the AVRHD 709 disc since for some reason the patterns on there gave off different luminance readings. I'm calibrated though at about 31ftl.

Anyway, here it is.

I am very interested in your results. However, I can not open the file you attached. If you have the time please post them up.

I assume you are happy with your results?

I couldn't get my 65736 to balance out either when just using the DVE disk. I plugged in ksbarnz service menu settings (ggl --> dbk) on the first post of this thread and then used the DVE disk to tweak the perfect color settings and other menu settings. Balancing out the perfect color settings with the tri-color decoder was a lot easier after changing the service menu settings. I am very pleased with the results. Give the service menu settings a try, just write down your factory settings in case you want to go back.

I'm having the same problem as Michael (though I have a 60735, so I don't have Perfect Tint). I'll give the service menu settings a shot tonight.

The filters that come with DVE are for adjusting color decoding only. the only color decoding controls available in the user menu are perfectcolor. With that being said you will find that these filters will be pretty inaccurate. the reason I say this is because the they where designed to be used with a fully dialed in level of saturation and hue. If your color points match perfectly on a CIE diagram than you can theoretically get pretty close with the filters but if you can get accurate color points than you are probably using a meter and likely wont be using the DVE filters. I say theoretically because the eye is not very accurate for judging color luminance and often can be tricked into seeing something it is not.

As color points shift away from there specified correct locations you have to move your luminance (color decoding) away from the spot specified as correct for the filter and toward where your delta E is smallest. This is why these filters are not generally accurate for calibration.

this is how I understand it at least.

Owner of a 73736.

I was testing out the settings from ksbarnz (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14420731#post14420731), on the first page. He has a 65736, so I figured are sets are nearly identical.

But after adjusting, I was rather disappointed. We could of not been looking at the same picture. I was left with a really, really dark image. Way to dark to enjoy much of anything. Did anyone else feel this way when testing those settings?

The only tool I have to actually adjust my set is the DVE Blu-ray disk.

takenover83, i've also used ksbarnz settings, they are right on, calibrated tv's tend to be darker. i have a 60735 and my picture is very good. that been said, ksbarnz, turbomaxx and others sevice menu settings appear to be close to where they should be. ksbarnz,cid67,turbomaxx and others thank you for letting us use your service menu settings. i'm very happy with my tv

Let me say this again. You will not get a calibrated set by copying someone elses settings. If you are happy with what you get from someone elses settings than great but the chances are that the settings will be worse than better as far as accuracy is concerned.

If you want good black level, you can do that by eye with a reasonable level of accuracy. Use a DVE or THX test pattern for adjusting black level and follow the directions. This should get you close. One word of advice when adjusting the set with patterns like this is to get right up close to the screen so you can better see the threshold of where the set starts to crush black.

Sharpness can also be adjusted by eye with a pattern but pretty much everything else will require a meter.

All sets are pretty different from each other, even in the same model do to variations in consumer grade components. For that reason, you should not expect to be looking at the same picture as someone else with the same settings.

cid67, i understand what your saying but right now a full isf calibration is not an option at this time, we have to prepare for a baby. my wife is happy with the set the way it is, and if she's happy so am i.

Glad to hear you are liking your set. I'm just spreading information and am by no means implying you must or even should get a full ISF calibration.

My comment was more in reference to Takenover83's comment about his picture being to dark after using ksbarnz settings.

I will re-enter the settings later, and take a before and after shot with my camera. There is no way these setting could be what one is trying to achieve.

I will re-enter the settings later, and take a before and after shot with my camera. There is no way these setting could be what one is trying to achieve.

I used ksbarnz service menu settings but not his regular video menu settings or perfect color settings. I adjusted the video menu settings and perfect color settings using the DVE disk. You might want to try turbomaxxx's settings while you are at it. They might work better for you.

In my case I am very happy with the service menu setting provided by ksbarnz, while paired with my own eyeballed DVE changes. ISF calibrated, no, but I too can not justify the expense with a 2 year old and an unemployed wife.

Remember I have a 73736 and ksbarnz has a 65736.
Ok here are the comparison shots. Not the greatest pics but the best I could do with my camera. I downsized them a little, as they were rather large.
Click the image for the bigger version.

Defaults for Brilliant.
http://i44.tinypic.com/330dxmq_th.jpg (http://i44.tinypic.com/330dxmq.jpg)
ksbarnz Settings
http://i44.tinypic.com/2e517hw_th.png (http://i44.tinypic.com/2e517hw.png)

Defaults for Brilliant.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2ezsl6b_th.png (http://i41.tinypic.com/2ezsl6b.png)
ksbarnz Settings
http://i41.tinypic.com/xn5cgo_th.png (http://i41.tinypic.com/xn5cgo.png)

You can see why I was disappointed with the settings. But I may give the above suggestion a try, because I do not really want to spend that kinda of money to have a accurate set.

snapshots don't really say anything as far as calibration is concerned. The only thing it really says is perhaps about the quality of your camera, not to mention the accuracy of the monitor its displayed on. like a TV, computer monitors need calibration as well.

unless the camera and the viewer's monitor are calibrated to the required standard there's really know way to know what we are actualy looking at.

They are not being provided to be torn apart by in depth analysis. They are being provided for that quick glance, first reaction type of feel. Sure, we all have different cams, monitors, settings, etc.... But that does not stop one from having a opinion about which looks better or worst, when using there monitors to view the snapshots.

Taken,

I tried a couple of settings for my 73835, some I liked, some I didn't. In the end, for me, it didn't matter as I had the set calibrated.

These units all seem to be different OFTB and each person's viewing habits, locations and room treatments will mean that one man's meat is another man's posion.

Get yourself one of the DVE discs and try doing some basic setup yourself. Once you find something that you like and works in your environment, then stay with it.

But above all else, enjoy the TV and don't get too hung up on who's settings you like the most, or less. It's not about that.

Seggers

im buying 65'' mitsubishi dlp model#WD-65735 i like to know if i can hook up my dell laptop to this tv laptop has vga port and if i can like to know what will i need to do this, box, cables so on. thank you

Any good deals out there to pic up a sensor to calibrate myself? Is the free software, colorHFCR, still having problems with LCD mode vs CRT for this DLP calibration.

Been away from forum for some time. I got top rated samsung LCD for our bedroom... funny... it is reall nice but I hate the 120hz and, even to my DVE blu-ray calibrated DLP, I just love the DLP film like look. I can't imaginine how great it could be with HFCR calibration

the best non professional grade meter is still the Eye One. The spider is almost always inaccurate and cant be trusted. If you wanted to step it up a notch the Chromma 5 is not a bad meter I hear. still not as accurate as the eye one pro but much faster on the readings, If I was buying a meter right now I would probably get an eye one pro but I would be very torn as the Chromma 5 has got a lot going for it.

ColorHCFR still has its issues but its more than usable. it can lock up with constant measurements on but you don't need to use that to get the job done. I have also had a few instances where my meter would hang on yellow for about 30 seconds and than give bogus data but its random and not a consistent issue. I will say that I have never had a lockup that I had to reset the program to fix. It always comes back on its own after a minute or so. given all that I say its still the best option because its FREE.

They are not being provided to be torn apart by in depth analysis. They are being provided for that quick glance, first reaction type of feel. Sure, we all have different cams, monitors, settings, etc.... But that does not stop one from having a opinion about which looks better or worst, when using there monitors to view the snapshots.

if you want my quick glance opinion based on those pictures than I will say that ksbarnz settings look to have the more accurate color. The ksbarnz settings do look more washed out but I would say that appears to be more an issue of room lighting and or angle. there's no doubt that the brilliant mode will be brighter and because of that would appear on the picture stronger but that doesn't necessarily make it better.

I Tought I read somewhere on the THX website that THX specifies a light output of 35 ftl. for RP and the brilliant mode is probably closer to 80 ftl. good for daytime viewing but not for critical viewing.

Please tell me your joking? If you are saying ksbarnz looks washed out because of lighting and angle, then the same would apply to the other images as well (they were takn at the same time using the same camera using the same lighting). Look again. Lots of detail is clearly lost in the ksbarnz images. A blind man might be able to see that ;)

Using service level (and many consumer level) settings from someone else's set is just chasing your tail. While these sets are sometimes closer than previous sets, I still see some come from the factory with very large variations in performance. You simply cannot assume that the settings from one will look good on another of the same model.

Please tell me your joking? If you are saying ksbarnz looks washed out because of lighting and angle, then the same would apply to the other images as well (they were takn at the same time using the same camera using the same lighting). Look again. Lots of detail is clearly lost in the ksbarnz images. A blind man might be able to see that

well its hard to make an assessment on resolution in these pictures but if you haven't dialed down the sharpness controls you aren't loosing resolution. I would agree with you that the washing out would apply to both images but since brilliant is twice as bright as ksbarnz settings it would not be as apparent in the image because the brightness of the set is overriding it. Question. Do you watch tv in abrightly lit environment? If so, ksbarnz settings may not be for you because they are meant for a dark room.

Like Icaillo said, you aren't going to get the same picture as ksbarnz using his settings, so you may as well just dial it to what looks good to you and call it a day.

I want my set to look good during the day and at night. With that being said, the above defaults look better then the ksbarnz in either environment (dark or day). When I say look better, I mean it. The defaults have more detail, color, and just everything about it looks better.

Our sets use the same hardware. He just has the 65 and I have the 73. They should not be that far off from one another, when using the same settings.

We can sit here and argue all day, but my point has been proven, and you making statements about angle, time of day, etc... was just plain silly, sense both were tookn at the same time. Maybe I should take some more shots in pure darkness so you can once again see the brilliant defaults look better, even at nighttime. But, I have a good feeling I would be wasting my time. I am sure you would cook up another excuse. Thanks to those who read my post, without complete objectivity. Much appreciated.

Ksbarnz settings were just no where near theater like for me. (why share settings at all sense so many believe same hardware sets can not use the same settings?)

So let me ask you this then. Is your brilliant mode near the 709 standard?

If it is, well then good for you. If it isn't, then that's the whole point of calibrating a set. To bring it back to the 709 HD colour standard.

Being an ass when people try to help you with this isn't required.

Seggers

I was not being a ass. I even took time to provide a couple of pics to give those reading a general idea of what the difference for me was. Still received plenty of objectivity. Stating the obvious (you should just get a meter ,blah) over and over, just tends to anger people a little. No harm in trying a few members settings that they so kindly shared (thank you), before going out and dropping near $200 to get your new set somewhat accurate. I might do that later, but am finding it difficult to do so, sense my set did look pretty good OOTB.

BTW, Seggers I was not disagreeing with your original reply (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15941244#post15941244) to me.

why share settings at all sense so many believe same hardware sets can not use the same settings?

This is my whole point. there is no real reason to share settings. this is done mostly by people who do not understand and thus assume they can just plug someone else s settings in and wallah. if this where possible why have calibrators at all. A tv manufacturer or anyone could just post settings and no one else would ever have to calibrate there sets. this just isn't the way it works. you don't have to believe us. you can say I'm not being objective because I dont agree with you. that's fine. I say I'm wrong if I'm wrong but every thing I have said to you is for you to further understand the SCIENCE of calibration. after all you are asking questions with regard to calibration aren't you. You want to know why the setting you copied look so bad . well I'm telling you, and I think based on the wholly inaccurate representation of the TV's actual picture that is you your snapshots that I think the KSBARNZ settings look closer to accurate than the brilliant settings although from the images you post they both look wrong. that's likely got a lot to do with your camera, my computer monitor and your set not being calibrated with a meter or at the very least DVE. you can take that information or not. I don't care aether way. If you lioke you set on brilliant great, more power to you I am not trying to disuade you. its all about what we want out of our sets ,right. I'm sorry if you dont like my answers.

As far as sharpness is concerned, lets explore this a little more. Did your original settings include having sharp edge enabled and ksbarnz setting include it being disabled? I ask because the set will look sharper with sharp edge on but its adding artificial sharpness to the image. The sharpness that sharp edge introduces to the image has nothing to do with the actual image. when this is disabled the image will look softer in many cases but you aren't loosing any real detail. just the artificial detail the the set is introducing into the image. with it off you will get every pixel of detail out of a 1080p image, provided you have disabled the auto keystone correction in the service menu, that is.

You made some valid points, I will give you that. But this thread is called "Mitsubishi WD-XX735,736 and 835 Settings and Tweaks". Are you suggesting it should be locked, because sharing settings and tweaks are useless, even if you do have the same model of hdtv?

Maybe I did do something wrong, or missed something. The image looked terrible, so it is likely that I very well may have. My main complaint is that the image was way to dark. White no longer looked white, at all. Daytime material was unbearable and looked very bad. This was mainly because the contrast was lowered. Sharp Edge? I never remember seeing a setting called that. Is it in the service menu somewhere? I did adjust the standard Sharpening setting found in the user settings, according to ksbarnz shared settings.

Edit: I don't think our sets(65/73-736) have the Sharp Edge feature.

well, it may say settings and tweaks in the thread title but its meaning is, this is where you come to understand the settings needed to calibrate this particular set and tweaks is referring to any little tricks or tweaks like disabling the auto keystone to enable true 1080p output, Not specifically for the sharing of individuals settings. although there is really nothing wrong with that so long as we all have an understanding on the true facts on the subject. that's the way I interpret it anyway.

for black level adjust the brightness with the appropriate pattern. many THX DVD disks have this pattern included in the THX optimizer. or you could buy DVE. in addition to having some useful patterns for people that want to eyeball there sets DVE also is very educational.

Set contrast to what is comfortable for you. in the absence of a meter, there is no way to accurately dial this in and besides, you likely wouldn't want it dialed in correctly because it would only look good in a dark room.

You should always keep the sharpness control on 31 (default) for these sets. this isn't the case for many sets but for our sets, deviating from the default 31 setting will compromise detail in one way or the other.

I caved. Went ahead and bought a Eye-one LT for ~$150 off amazon. I just hope its worth it. My wife is sure to give me a few "looks" tomorrow ;)
(btw, I already have a copy of the Blu-ray DVE)

Any other links I need to educate myself with, besides this one?
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

OK now Look here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
you are actually going to want to use the AVSHD disk to calibrate.

I recommend you get a copy of color HCFR software here
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php
follow the guide I posted a link to religiously untl you get a handle on things
I can help you along the way as I have done this a few times.

Il post the lessons I have learned later when I have more time to save you some agony. just remember this is going to take time and has a pretty big learning curve.

be prepared to spend 5 or 6 hrs calibrating once you learn everything you need to know.

you will need a laptop for this and don't forget a USB extension cord so your not stuck right up on the floor in front of your TV.

Thanks.
I have a wireless keyboard and mouse, so that will make it a little easier. Much appreciated.

As long as you can sit in front of the tv while using your computer.

Takenover83, a word of advice. If you are going to use the curtpalme link, which is fine, don't buy the DVE Basics DVD. Use the AVSHD-709 disc for the entire walkthrough. The patterns are brighter on the AVS disc, and after you calibrate your grayscale and start calibrating colors, you will never get it close. I ended up scrapping all my settings from the DVE disc and starting from complete scratch with the AVS disc, grayscale and all. Took me twice as long, and trust me; it's a boring process to cycle through white patterns. :)

Which brings me to DubC. I'll get my numbers posted for you tonight or tomorrow. I am extremely pleased with the results. Wish it could help with that damn soft DirecTV picture though, hehehe. But my Blu-ray movies look excellent .

If you download the HCFR software you can open the file I included. I think I have my numbers and settings in there too.

Thanks for the suggestion. Kinda makes me regret buying DVE a few days back. But I guess its good for educational value.

Thanks for the suggestion. Kinda makes me regret buying DVE a few days back. But I guess its good for educational value.

I actually thought it was great until I used the HDAVS disc. Even after I couldn't get greens to line up with the color filter I used it to calibrate my original grayscale.

Then the difference between the AVS and DVE discs made me start over. Just trying to save you the same amount of time.

Ok Dub, here is what I got:

Picture: Natural
Deepfield: On
Video Noise: Off
Color Temp: Low

Sharpness: 40
Tint and Color: 31 each
Brightness: 32
Contrast: 52

PerfectColor Settings:
Magenta - 39
Red - 41
Yellow - 31
Green - 43
Cyan - 37
Blue - 21


In the service menu, I'll list only what I changed. Assume default otherwise:
6. GRL - 1067
7. GBL - 1018
37. SBL - 124
43. SML - 119
44. HML - 50
52. BMR - 9
53. BMB - 65526
57. CMG - 110
58. CMR - 110
59. CMB - 110

The last three appear to be contrast for the 3 primary colors. You may notice my contrast up much higher than other people. Some are jacking these three numbers up. I didn't. But my grayscale is also dead on and in a dark room it doesn't cause any eye strain, so that seems to be sort of a "configure how you like" setting.

I feel like it's the best I could do without a professional calibration, and I am damn proud of my grayscale calibration. And the picture is great.

OK here's what you need to know.

1.HVPOS is the horizontal and vertical positioning of the picture on screen. Use a pattern on the AVSHD disk not the patterns in the service menu to adjust this.

5.GGL (gain green low)
6.GRL (gain red low)
7.GBL (gain blue low)

These are the adjustments for the high end of the gray scale. When adjusting these you should not touch green. Instead, adjust blue and red.

Adjusting all three would have a similar affect to raising contrast and you don't want to throw out the contrast you should have already set prior to adjusting these settings.

You will Find that adjusting red up will lower blue and vice versa so its a balancing act. In fact Many settings have an equal and opposite effect on something so keep an eye out for this. Get it as close as you can but don't worry to much about if its 1 point off because the eye one has a level of error larger than this.

Before I forget, the eye one has an operating temperature that is at about 69 degrees Fahrenheit + or - 5 degrees or so. You should try and set your house to as close to this as possible to ensure the most accurate results. Also, this meter is sensitive to ambient light so do your calibration in total darkness to ensure accuracy.

8.CCA This has the effect of enabling and disabling the color management system.
you should leave this alone.

30GRL (Gain red low)
31SRL (Saturation red low)
32HRL Hue red low)

This is an example of the red color management control. All other colors in the color management control are layed out the same with the obviouse exeption of the middle letter that is the first letter in the name of the color the control applies to. For example, blue would be GBL,SBL,HBL.

The six colors are red,green,blue,cyan,magenta,and yellow. the color management systems consists of the service menu controls labeled 30 to 47

Gain represents the luminance,or brightness of a particular color. perfect color also adjust gain but the service menu setting does it with a finer degree of accuracy. I generally use perfect color to get my colors Y (gain) value close and than use the service menu control to dial it in closer.

Saturation is the purity or richness of the color. It is represented as the distance the color point on the CIE diagram is away from the center d65 point.

Hue is the the degree the color is shifted toward or away from another color in relation to its reference point.

48.GGWL (gain green White level)
49.GRWL ( gain red white level)
50.GBWL (gain blue white level)

This is essentially a contrast control. Think of it like the high end gray scale adjustment mentioned earlier but it works across the entire gray scale, not just the top part. You don't need to adjust this and I recommend you leave it alone. Its only real use would be if one color in your gray scale measurement was evenly out of spec all the way across the gray scale

51.BMG (? middle Green)
52.BMR (? middle Red)
53.BMB (? middle blue)

This adjusts the middle of the gray scale. Some people mistake this for the low end gray scale adjustment because its range overlaps the the operational range of the low end and the high end controls but its own operational range doesnt reach as low as the true low end gray scale adjustment. You wouldn't know this if your meter will not read accurately below 30 IRE. Many wont Including the EYE ONE.

This is still up for debate but I have talked with enough people to feel comfortable with this analysis. At any rate, just go with the OFG, OFR, OFB and it will turn out beautiful.

54.OFG (Offset green)
55.OFR (Offset red)
56.OFB (Offset Blue)

This is the controls for the bottom of the grayscale. Use this to adjust the lower end of your grayscale.

You don't need to worry about any of the other settings in the service menu as they aren't useful in my opinion for getting the calibration done.

When in the service menu, press 0. This will being up a menu. scroll down to the manual keystone adjustment option and press enter. this will bring up a pattern that is used for adjusting keystone. What you want to do is press enter and than exit. This will disable the auto keystone correction and give you true 1080p resolution. The byproduct will be a slightly worse geometry but for true detail accuracy this is the setting you will want to use.

In the curt palm tutorial it mentions that you are going to want to adjust the color and tint controls to balance out the color points prior to making adjustments in the color management system. I do not do this. What I do do is dial the color control al the way up to full 63. I do this because this will increase the range of you saturation control and make it easier to hit the color point on the CIE chart. Don't worry, you will be dialing this down with the saturation controls in the service menu's color management system on an individual color basis.

Just leave tint at 31.

Another thing you need to be aware of is that this set has a color wheel with 5 color segments instead of the standard three that the curt palm guide assumes. Because of this you have to adjust all six colors individually in the color management system.
Adjusting red,green and blue will not directly effect the secondary colors of cyan, magenta, and yellow as is indicated in the guide.

Rec. 709 (High Definition)
--------------x-------y-------Y
Red----------0.640---0.330---0.2127
Green--------0.300---0.600---0.7151
Blue----------0.150---0.060---0.0722
Yellow--------0.419---0.505---0.9278
Cyan---------0.225---0.329---0.7873
Magenta------0.321---0.154---0.2849
White--------0.3127--0.329---1.0

This is your chart for setting proper luminance for the primary as well as the secondary colors.

Esentialy, if your color points where to match exactly to the X and Y coordinates listed above you could use the Y numbers indicated to arrive at the appropriate value

For instance, with red, if you are reading 0.640 and 0.330 and your 100 white measurement was, say 124.440, you would take your calculator and do the math
124.440 X 0.2127 = 26.468388 that number or as close to it as you could get is what you would want the Y value for your red to be.

Here is where the catch is. If your X and Y values are not what is specified in the above chart (likely they will not be do to limitations of the TV) Than the Y value calculated of those numbers will no longer apply. I don't know for sure if you could just take your values and recompute using the same formula but what I have done is downloaded a program called the accupel calculator http://www.accupel.com/HDG4000_manuals.html
Its listed as a display calibration calculator.

What I do is I enter in my current most accurate values into the blank squares on the bottom half of the calculator and than press compute. This will give you your delta e for those numbers. What I do is, in the calculator, I adjust the Y value for each color until I find the lowest possible delta e. this is the Y value you want to try and hit for you current x and Y data.keep an eye out for changes in your 100% white Y value in your colorHCFR as you may have to adjust this and recompute to stay close do to inaccuracy in the meter, among other things. do one color at a time and get it as close as possible than move on.

Remember, delta E is a representation of how close you are getting to accuracy. The lower the delta E, the closer to being perceptually accurate.

I would recomend you adjust contrast to 35 FTL. on these sets. that's what I believe THX recommends for a Rear projection but if you watch in daylight this may be two low.

What you could do is set the natural setting for critical night time viewing and set bright for daytime viewing.

Here is a valuable site fore determining seating distance. if you are interested. http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

I hope this helps somewhat.

Wow cid67,
You really out did yourself. That is alot of info. My eye-one should be here on the 3rd. I will most likely wait till it starts getting dark to begin the process. Everything looks pretty complicated, so I am sure I will have a question or 10 ;)

Thanks for all that info.

I have read almost all of the posts here and i think you guys are awesome for all of the insight. My question is, after playing with the service menu i find that i cannot access any of the ggwl type settings. i get numbers 1-6 then 8, then it goes to the 30's, skips to the 50's and thats it. I have a 65736 and was wondering how to get the other settings to show up. Thanks. actually i got the numbers mixed up, i get the 20's not the 30's so i get settings like ggh, grh,xrh, and yrh so on and so forth.

Ok I managed to get a little tweak time in last night. I am still not done, as I was tired and the early morning was quickly coming. But I did get quiet a bit of the grey scale done. It was not really to bad OOTB. But I did have to adjust it to be better. Thanks again cid67, your post was most helpful, especially the section where you identified what was on the high end and what was the low end. And I agree, that the Eye-One LT does not really tell you much below 30. 30-100 seemed to read just fine.

you are going to want to keep practicing until you get your calibration done in a single sitting. the next time you sit down to calibrate your settings will likely ave drifted do to a verity of reasons.

I have read almost all of the posts here and i think you guys are awesome for all of the insight. My question is, after playing with the service menu i find that i cannot access any of the ggwl type settings. i get numbers 1-6 then 8, then it goes to the 30's, skips to the 50's and thats it. I have a 65736 and was wondering how to get the other settings to show up. Thanks. actually i got the numbers mixed up, i get the 20's not the 30's so i get settings like ggh, grh,xrh, and yrh so on and so forth.

What is your picture mode set to? Try changing it to Natural and everything else should show.

worked like a charm thanks.

Well, this is where I am at so far. I don't think its too bad, but I am going to work on it a bit more a little later to see if I can get it even better. After I finished my color adjustments, it kinda threw my grey scale off a bit. My green also seems to be off a little. But it is much better then it was.

http://www.mediafire.com/?uzdgzzmzozc

Ok Dub, here is what I got:

Picture: Natural
Deepfield: On
Video Noise: Off
Color Temp: Low

Sharpness: 40
Tint and Color: 31 each
Brightness: 32
Contrast: 52

PerfectColor Settings:
Magenta - 39
Red - 41
Yellow - 31
Green - 43
Cyan - 37
Blue - 21


In the service menu, I'll list only what I changed. Assume default otherwise:
6. GRL - 1067
7. GBL - 1018
37. SBL - 124
43. SML - 119
44. HML - 50
52. BMR - 9
53. BMB - 65526
57. CMG - 110
58. CMR - 110
59. CMB - 110

The last three appear to be contrast for the 3 primary colors. You may notice my contrast up much higher than other people. Some are jacking these three numbers up. I didn't. But my grayscale is also dead on and in a dark room it doesn't cause any eye strain, so that seems to be sort of a "configure how you like" setting.

I feel like it's the best I could do without a professional calibration, and I am damn proud of my grayscale calibration. And the picture is great.

What model do you own?

what model do you own?

73736

73736

I'm looking to home calibrate my 73835 but don't want to get into the setup menu. I am going to try your non set up settings on my set?



Edit....I used your non setup settings and not too bad......I think the flesh tones could be little darker though.

73736

I started from scratch on my color last night. This time I kept my initial color settings at 31, instead of 63. Overall, I am looking very good, accept that "Cyan" is about 20points off.

Rec 709 Cyan = x.225, y.329
Currently it is at x.245, y.329. Anyone else have alot of trouble getting x and y into range with this color? Any tips?

Here is a updated chart.
http://www.mediafire.com/?qzzychukytq

73736

I started from scratch on my color last night. This time I kept my initial color settings at 31, instead of 63. Overall, I am looking very good, accept that "Cyan" is about 20points off.

Rec 709 Cyan = x.225, y.329
Currently it is at x.245, y.329. Anyone else have alot of trouble getting x and y into range with this color? Any tips?

Here is a updated chart.
http://www.mediafire.com/?qzzychukytq

I'd stop there, just my opinion. You are not going to see a discernable difference in .2. But also make sure your Y is on or close as well.

I only got 2 colors to hit all three dead on. The other colors I was usually able to get y to line up and x and Y to get within .4-.5.

After a while I gave up trying to get all three to go.

I'm looking to home calibrate my 73835 but don't want to get into the setup menu. I am going to try your non set up settings on my set?



Edit....I used your non setup settings and not too bad......I think the flesh tones could be little darker though.

Yeah, you're only going to get so far without the service menu adjustments. However also remember your set is going to look different than my set due to bulb luminance and such. So my settings may not be perfect for your set.

If you don't want to use the service menu controls, I would suggest the DVE basics disc as it will at least help you with your main controls. And if you can live with the fact that the green filter is worthless, you could try to use the red and blue filters to calibrate your perfectcolor settings.

Quick question i have a 65835 and been trying to calibrate it with some of the settings i have found in this forum. However i have an Onkyo 606 that everything goes through (xbox360,ps3,avr,wii)but when you turn the TV off all the settings reset to factory. I have been looking on these forums and found that it is the receiver that may be the problem so my question is how do i fix it?

You have not completed the AVR setup, read the manual or search for some of my prior posts. I also have a Onkyo 606 and it will work when setup is done correctly.

I have my DirecTV HD sat box hooked up to my 73835 via HDMI cables through my Onkyo 606 receiver. I also want to hook my sat box directly to my TV using component cables for video and audio cables so I don't have to use my receiver.

1) Will the TV recognize the component connection since I already have the HDMI connection in place?

2) What input name on the 73835 would I use for the component connection since the HDMI connection already uses the sat input name?

I posted this in another thread and got no replies so I thought I would try it here.

I have my DirecTV HD sat box hooked up to my 73835 via HDMI cables through my Onkyo 606 receiver. I also want to hook my sat box directly to my TV using component cables for video and audio cables so I don't have to use my receiver.

1) Will the TV recognize the component connection since I already have the HDMI connection in place?

2) What input name on the 73835 would I use for the component connection since the HDMI connection already uses the sat input name?

I posted this in another thread and got no replies so I thought I would try it here.

I believe the newer HRXX-XXX series DVRs will allow you to pass both HDMI and Component at the same time. The older HR10 Tivo units did not. With this said I hope you realize that component is video only and that you would have to run an audio source to the TV as well. As for naming the input, I would just add a number to the end, i.e. SAT2 or HDSAT2 or DTV2 or HDDTV2.....etc.

I believe the newer HRXX-XXX series DVRs will allow you to pass both HDMI and Component at the same time. The older HR10 Tivo units did not. With this said I hope you realize that component is video only and that you would have to run an audio source to the TV as well. As for naming the input, I would just add a number to the end, i.e. SAT2 or HDSAT2 or DTV2 or HDDTV2.....etc.

I have a Directv H10 HD receiver not a DVR. I was wondering if the TV (73835) will except both sources or it will pick the HDMI over the component. I'm not asking if the receiver will output both sources. I've tried once and could not get the TV to accept both sources. Maybe/probably I did something wrong I would hopefully like an answer before I try again.

I have a Directv H10 HD receiver not a DVR. I was wondering if the TV (73835) will except both sources or it will pick the HDMI over the component. I'm not asking if the receiver will output both sources. I've tried once and could not get the TV to accept both sources. Maybe/probably I did something wrong I would hopefully like an answer before I try again.

The TV shouldn't have a problem recognizing them as they will be viewed as two separate inputs. I assume you set up NetCommand for the component input?

I am not familiar with the H10 receiver, but some receivers will not allow you to use both HDMI and Component at the same time, thus no pic over component to your TV.

Try running component to your TV while the HDMI is unplugged from the back of the H10. Get that to work and then plug the HDMI back in and see what happens.

I have a Directv H10 HD receiver not a DVR. I was wondering if the TV (73835) will except both sources or it will pick the HDMI over the component. I'm not asking if the receiver will output both sources. I've tried once and could not get the TV to accept both sources. Maybe/probably I did something wrong I would hopefully like an answer before I try again.
The TV wont care what source it is, if there is valid video on component input it will display it.
If your not getting any video, then most likely its a setting in the source device that your need to switch to component.

Generally, devices wont output a component signal if they detect an HDMI display connected.

I just got a 73736 and I have a question... I have my PS3 and HR10 run through a Marantz 8500 pre-pro via HDMI and then one HDMI to the 736.

I am now try to calibrate my tv and am thinking about having it professionally done, but can two sources be run through one input and calibrated correctly or does each source need its own input and calibration on the TV?

There are some settings that can be made per input (anything in the user menus), some settings that can be made globally only (most settings in the service menu), and some settings that apply to a specific color temperature (some of the gray scale settings in the service menu). If there is a difference in gray scale, it can be accounted for using the two gray scale settings Some color and level issues can be handled per input, which would require bypassing the pre-pro.

Ok,

so there are quite a few of you guy who have calibrated your own TVs and after watching the 736 for a couple of days and playing with the non-service settings I can see the TV needs more adjustment that I can do with my eye... Is calibrating the TV a fairly easy (although time staking) task, or if your a noob should it be left up to an ISF calibrator?

I like the idea of doing it myself and the fact that for the price of one ISF calibration I could do both of my current TVs and any future TVs but am a little weary that I will not be able to get close to a professionals results even thought the "calibration for dummies guide" makes the process sound achievable.

Any of you guys noobs to calibration before trying this? Or you more advanced guys is it really a task for a noob?

thanks for any tips

Or you more advanced guys is it really a task for a noob?
thanks for any tips

It completely depends on whether you are willing to invest the time and effort to learn a lot and invest in the right tools.

I suggest one of the CalMan packages and their forum if you want to learn.

Yes, Just as Icaillo has said but I would add that while Calman is a great program for beginners because it sort of holds your hand through the process. I have found that ColorHCFR is totally acceptable, as long as you know the proper work flow and what is considered to be correct.

The Curt palm calibration guide for dummies is absolutely essential for learning the basics of color HCFR and for getting a handle on the process in general.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

To get Professional quality results you will have to step up to a professional quality meter. I recommend the Eye One Pro but the Eye One LT is a competent meter at a much lower cost that will give you very good results that the vast majority of enthusiasts will find acceptable. it doesn't have quite the level of accuracy of the Eye One Pro, especially in the low end but it in my opinion it will get you perceptually there.

I would recommend you stay away from the Spider meters as they are not as accurate as the Eye One LT and about 30% of them aren't accurate at all.

If you do choose to use HCFR be prepared to be frustrated. It stops taking readings at random, forcing you to hit stop, unplug the usb and replug, and hit play. Very painful, when you are trying to make a adjustment.

I never had to do that.

You just cant use the constant measurement function. it has a bug in it. the program will lock up for a minute or two but will correct itself on its own.

If you where doing calibration for a living I would definatly not use color HCFR but if you are going to be using it for your own personal use its just fine. after all, you are really only going to need to calibrate maybe once a year. I would put up with a free program that has same minor annoyances once every year VS paying over two hundred dollars at a minimum just to avoid them any day.

Cid,

what if the calMAN was just $75? one of the sponsors has the eye-one 2 bundled with the calMAN for $279... Its very tempting to get the bundle and save a potential headache... but you are right, the full price for calMAN is a bit steep and I don't think I would get it. But as it is I am leaning towards the bundle.

If you do choose to use HCFR be prepared to be frustrated. It stops taking readings at random, forcing you to hit stop, unplug the usb and replug, and hit play. Very painful, when you are trying to make a adjustment.

Try getting the latest version then. I used the version from the links here and didn't have a problem at all.

I never had to do that.

You just cant use the constant measurement function. it has a bug in it. the program will lock up for a minute or two but will correct itself on its own.

If you where doing calibration for a living I would definatly not use color HCFR but if you are going to be using it for your own personal use its just fine. after all, you are really only going to need to calibrate maybe once a year. I would put up with a free program that has same minor annoyances once every year VS paying over two hundred dollars at a minimum just to avoid them any day.

O I am not ungrateful. But it is best if users know ahead of time, so they are prepared to deal with it. I used the constant measurement feature when making adjustments, and yes it is buggy.

Try getting the latest version then. I used the version from the links here and didn't have a problem at all.
I did have the latest version. Thats the first thing I double checked when I ran into the problem.

I've had my 73835 for about a week now and I'm essentially satisfied with it's performance except for the sound from the internal speakers. They are really bad!! I have an extra older pro-logic receiver that I want to hook up with a small center channel and small left and right fronts. I can put the speakers under the TV in the TV stand.

Looking at the manual, it's not very clear how to turn off the TV speakers. I will be using the L/R analog audio TV outs to the Receiver. I DON'T want to control the receiver with the NetCommand Control as I have a Pronto universal remote that controls everything in my normal HT system including the 73835. I just want better sound out of the TV without having to turn on my whole HT system. Trying to make it wife friendly but get better sound to.;) When i use my HT system, it gets used with my projector, not the Mits.

What do I have to do on the TV side to turn off the TV speakers and engage the receiver. I currently have five inputs to the TV, Cable, ATSC TV, 2 satellite inputs and one hdmi input from my Home Therater PC or PS3.

Thanks.

What do I have to do on the TV side to turn off the TV speakers and engage the receiver. I currently have five inputs to the TV, Cable, ATSC TV, 2 satellite inputs and one hdmi input from my Home Therater PC or PS3.

Thanks.

Go to Menu and audio settings and there's an option to set the audio to either 'off' or 'AVR' (i'm at work so i can't remember)

Or you could jsut set the volume level to 0....

Seggers

Go to Menu and audio settings and there's an option to set the audio to either 'off' or 'AVR' (i'm at work so i can't remember)

If you have done the AVR setup, the audio button on the mits remote will do this and also turn the AVR on and off. It does with my Onkyo at least.

what if the calMAN was just $75?

Yes, if a bundled deal puts calman at 75 dollars over the cost of the buying the hardware alone than I would definatly say buy it but I dont think the software is worth 200 dollars. especially with no free updates and multiple versions tied to specific meters. they just seem to be too greedy for my blood.

Too greedy? You have obviously not developed software nor do yo have a perspective on the time, effort, research, investment in equipment, and competing products involved with the development of CalMan. These guys are hardly getting rich. It is rare to find the kind of support and documentation that they provide. I guess there is no end to the desire to get more for less. For those that think CalMan is too pricey, just go for the freebee and get HCFR.

You have obviously not developed software nor do yo have a perspective on the time, effort, research, investment in equipment, and competing products involved with the development of CalMan

You are correct, I am no software developer but I do have some degree of knowledge about the time it takes to develop a program as I am a moderator for the Pinnacle Game Profiler forums and have had discussions with the developer on this subject before. That particular software is developed by one person and he offers the software for much cheaper and with lifetime updates and almost unheard of tech support as well.

Now, I am not going to say that calman was of comparable difficulty to develop as pinnacle because I have no frame of reference but based on my experiences and in my opinion it is over priced. Perhaps greedy was the wrong word.

I would bet if they relaxed the restrictions on meter support provided free updates and cut the price in half ,they would make more money. I would buy, that's for sure.

I am equally sure that Bill, et. al. have considered that and concluded differently. My guess is that they have measured the cost of support and decided that the clientele that is willing to pay a reasonable price is more to their liking than the rest looking for something for nothing.

$75 is nothing? I think that would be a somewhat of a fair price.

clientele that is willing to pay a reasonable price is more to their liking than the rest looking for something for nothing.

You make it sound like the idea of wanting to obtain something and not have to pay for it is in some way wrong. This is not what I am saying with regard to obtaining software as I would certainly want the people who invested in developing software to get there rightful return on investment but I would find it crazy to say ,"Oh I would much rather pay for something even though I could get it rightfully for free because to want something for free is just wrong". I am obviously just generalizing.

I am willing to pay what I consider to be a reasonable price for something and just as you stated that the developers have done a cost analysis to determine what to price there product, I too have done a cost analysis and I think its to expensive for my return on investment.

Like Takenover83 said, I think 75 dollars is a fair price.

Anyways, I think we will have to just agree to disagree because this all really boils down to Opinion and you know what they say about opinions, right?

Oh brother, sure hope the experts can guide me with this one.

I have two DLPs by Mitsubishi, a WD73735 which I bought last month at PC Richard for $1,580

I also have a Mitsubishi WD65835 which I got yesterday (As a warantee replacement for my unfixable WS65813)


MY 73 incher which doesnt have 120MHZ or other step up features has performed flawlessly this past month with HDMI connected to my PC as well as cable box .

Now, this top of the line 65835 arrives yesterday with its smooth 120 and step up features.

I hook it up to my cable box via HDMI and have noticed the following.

LOTS of microsopic dots (not pixelization) just dots that seem to be even on a solid menu screen, (Googled Moire and that seems to describe it) almost a screen door kind of look in a criss cross pattern.

This mainly occurs when the image motion is panning from left to right or right to left.

This is only when I'm within 18 inches of the screen

On my 73 incher it's there too but you really, really have to strain during motion or on a semi static image to see it and BARELY, and this too is within 18 inches of the screen.

But on the 65 inch top of the line TV it's so much more pronounced quite noticeable

If anyone knows what i'm talking about is there a deep menu adjustment, is it my imagination? do i live with this, Call PC richard and ask for a service call or replacement?

By the way, I disabled smooth 120 (which actually enhances the dots and screen door) and disabled sharp edge and film look too.

Thanks in advance,

jeff

If you have Comcast try to hook up Component cables if it goes away it is Comcast HDMI programing problem. With my 3 HD Comcast box I can not use HDMI because of this. I have the same problem on three HDTV with there Boxes. Mitsubishi WD-65835 I love this set, Sony XBR6 Very nice set, and Toshiba 52XF550U it is OK set. All three I can not use HDMI with Comcast Box. I have them with Component cables. I hope it helps.

Comments appreciated, I must admit that I still do not have a good understanding of the process or the software. I suppose my Y values are too high? I do prefer a bright picture, (my living room has alot of sunlight). Also, I have my bulb on the bright setting. The picture looks good,, am I in the ballpark?

your report says you are using a simulated meter...???

Help! I woke up this morning and my 65735 has these hideous lines on my screen. (See attached picture) I've tried the following to diagnose the problem, none of which have been successful:

1) Cleaned the outside of the screen.
2) Changed input to a different HDMI input. Lines still present.
3) Power on/off (several attempts) with no luck.


I purchased and registered for my warranty on 12/13/08, so I'm assuming I"m still under warranty at this point, but I'm just looking for an explanation at this point. I'll certainly be calling customer service tomorrow!

Thanks in advance for any advice you might have. I can try and take better pictures if that will help you diagnose.

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/674/wtfmate.jpg

your report says you are using a simulated meter...??? It was an eye one display-2, I didn't save the report to a file and had to restore data and did not have the meter connected (when the file was saved). Like I said haven't figured out the software. The data and the meter were real not simulated.

Hello All, I just hooked up my new WD-73835 and it looks pretty good right out of the box. I had a calibrated 65908 rear projection, that i just sold to a friend and compaired to what I remember and was used to, I'm impressed. What setting changes can I make to try and get the best pq without geting into the service menu? I plan to have it calibrated in the future. How long should I wait to have it calibrated? I have it in a totaly light controled ht setup. I enjoy a bright picture but I do not want to sacrifice the pq, as I just want the tv to be at its best. I have a Sony S550 Bluray through component (until I receive my hdmi) and it looks good. I am also running just basic cable (charter) into ant 1 and of course it looks very rough. Any suggestions would be very helpful and appreciated. Love the forum and all the help you all give...

Calibration questions on my 65835.

Just bought the Chroma-5/Calman package.

Are you using the Perfect color/Perfect tint screens to calibrate? I saw a post about a service menu and what appeared to be a bunch of codes and values. How do you get into the service menu and more importantly does anyone have something that gives a definition for the codes?

Are you doing anything with your Lamp setting? I fired up Calman and the only way i could get the temp anywhere close to the desired 6500 was to set the lamp to standard instead of bright in natural mode.

I'm guessing that I just wasted a bunch of time trying to set things in the user menu when I should be adjusting things in the service menu....

Appreciate any help.
Brian

Ok found the menu 2457. Do you go through each of the settings one at a time with the video button?

Also if someone has a list of the current parms and settings (even if they are the default settings), I'd like to see them. I found one earlier in this thread but its parms ended in L, mine seem to mostly end in H, like GGH.

CID67 was absolutely right when he said that auto keystone correction precludes full 1080p. Using DVE before and after disabling auto keystone, the difference was readily apparent on the resolution patterns. This might explain why "Home Theater", in their their review of the WD-65835 , said that " The Mitsu, at 1080p and 1080i, did not respond cleanly to resolutions at the upper limit of the HD bandwidth (37.1 megahertz)."

The geometry of the set did not deteriorate noticably after setting the keystone setting to manual (using the geometric pattern in VDE); thus I'd encourage everyone to at least try disabling auto keystone correction. It is very easy to enable if it doesn't work out.

Many thanks for the tip, CID67.

Jim

So after days and days of reading, I was up all night trying to cal the TV. Upon initial grey scale cal, the i1 sensor said that I needed to crank my red way up to get the 100% for all three colors. Doing this obviously created a red hue in my "white" box throughout each shade. I continued through the calibration process with an uncomfortable feeling, maybe because I was starring at the cal patterns too long. At the end of it all, the picture did show improvement, however, needless to say you see red throughout.

Anybody else run into this?

So after days and days of reading, I was up all night trying to cal the TV. Upon initial grey scale cal, the i1 sensor said that I needed to crank my red way up to get the 100% for all three colors. Doing this obviously created a red hue in my "white" box throughout each shade. I continued through the calibration process with an uncomfortable feeling, maybe because I was starring at the cal patterns too long. At the end of it all, the picture did show improvement, however, needless to say you see red throughout.

Anybody else run into this?

What software are you using? Actual color adjustment (like PerfectColor adjustment) or hue/tint for the colors? Red showed very strong for mine when you do a factory reset I wound up turning the hue for magenta on my set way down (I believe the hue was down to 12 where 31 is default midpoint). The picture looks very good, I need to run some of BD listed in another thread as a test for Blacks and Whites.

I'm using the HCFR software. I think it's one of the first steps in the grey scale adjustments. I reset all the settings on the TV with low settings and all the frills off, as suggested in many posts. The initial grey scale reading shows the red extremely low. I have to crank it way up to get all three colors at 100% which show the box at 80% as basically pink. Sumtin not right! I'm worried my brand new i1 is off. I did the precal per HCFR instructions.

my first bet would be somethings not right with your eye 1. at the natural/low settings red will be a bit elevated by default.

To the orginal poster ksbarnz,

THANK YOU SIR!!!!! Your settings made my set look stunning. I used every one of the numbers listed in service & regular mode on the natural picture setting. I just had to tweak color & sharpness a hair but overall it looks amazing!

I just bought the 736 and used my avia disc as a quick setup and noticed the red's were slightly more magenta-ish than usual. My biggest concern was the exaggerated pinkish/purple noses, cheeks, & lips, neon greens & blues, on any live HD feeds. My wife made a comment that people looked like dolls running around on TV. I couldn't believe how far off the settings on this box were from the manufacturer.

To anyone who's on the fence, these numbers will give you a helluva base to start from. Just remember to "name" you inputs before making changes or they wont save.

Hey everyone. Thanks in advance for all the great information you've posted on here!

After putting about 200hrs on the bulb of my 65735, I'm beginning the process of calibrating the TV. I've not been happy at all with the OOB colors, and haven't had much success improving the color with the user menu controls. Blues are outrageously oversaturated, and yellows (especially broadcast graphics like a Subway sandwiches logo) look sickly and green. So the set needs help.

I'm using Color HCFR with an Eye-One Pro. I'm displaying the HD709 patterns (downloaded the .mp4 files and playing them with VLC) on the TV using a MacBook connected via the HDMI-3 input.

I've run through the initial grayscale measurements, and would like to post my "before" HCFR file for your review. What perplexes me a bit is that except for the measurements at 0 IRE and 10 IRE, the numbers don't "seem" to be off too much. That definitely doesn't jive with the performance on screen. Anyway, I'm gonna get to tweaking with the controls to further dial in these measurements.

I've posted the file. Could someone check it out and provide feedback as to what I might be missing? Again, thanks for your time. :)

Well, your gray scale definatly need improvement. Based on those gray scale measurements, your going to have a picture that is tinted a lot to the red. As far as your yellows and blues are concerned,you need to measure you primary and secondary colors to see where your colors are and from there you will know in what way they need correcting. gray scale alone is not going to correct these color anomalies. You are going to need to make corrections within the color management system provided your set has one.

You may get better information if you can find a forum thread that is for your specific set. This forum thread is not for your set although we can certainly provide you with some degree of help here.

Thanks for the help. I mis-typed the model number before. My set is the Mits 65735. I'll begin to tweak the settings to try to dial in the grayscale, then move on to the primary and secondary colors. Thanks again.

menu2470

What model is the good for? I have a WD-73735 and when I select menu2470, it switches from my HDMI input to my antenna input, says initializing settings, then shuts off. Upon turning back on, ALL of my settings are reset to default. Anybody know the service menu option to view the life of the lamp?

I just got a 73835 two days ago . . . long story short, I have some geometry problems, with the top black bar on 2.35 etc movies being drastically smaller than the bottom one. Bringing up the pattern in the manual keystone adjustment shows WAY more information on the bottom than the top. I have tried to disable the auto keystone setting by going into the Manual Keystone option, bringing up the pattern, hitting enter, then exiting, but this does absolutely nothing.

My question is, how do I properly adjust the pattern? I know there are 16 points you have to adjust, but where do I line the points up? What should the pattern look like when it's done correctly?

If it helps, here's a pic of the pattern I'm seeing:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g34/SweetP8402/IMG_0925.jpg

What model is the good for? I have a WD-73735 and when I select menu2470, it switches from my HDMI input to my antenna input, says initializing settings, then shuts off. Upon turning back on, ALL of my settings are reset to default. Anybody know the service menu option to view the life of the lamp?

dont press enter

I just got a 73835 two days ago . . . long story short, I have some geometry problems, with the top black bar on 2.35 etc movies being drastically smaller than the bottom one. Bringing up the pattern in the manual keystone adjustment shows WAY more information on the bottom than the top. I have tried to disable the auto keystone setting by going into the Manual Keystone option, bringing up the pattern, hitting enter, then exiting, but this does absolutely nothing.

My question is, how do I properly adjust the pattern? I know there are 16 points you have to adjust, but where do I line the points up? What should the pattern look like when it's done correctly?

If it helps, here's a pic of the pattern I'm seeing:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g34/SweetP8402/IMG_0925.jpgprobably adjust vertical position down a bit and then horizontal position to the right and everything will be fine.

probably adjust vertical position down a bit and then horizontal position to the right and everything will be fine.

Right on, finally found how to do that and all is well :p

I actually started a thread about this, but any idea why I would have white light shining through the top black bar on ~2.35 content when a bright image is near/up against the bar? It doesn't do it on the bottom bar, just the top, but it's enough that it actually makes the bar grey. Here's the thread, with pics: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1139317

On my 65735, when adjusting primary and secondary colors, is this done with a combination of Perfect Color settings and certain service menu settings? If so, which service menu adjustments are used to adjust the primary and secondary colors? The reason I ask is because I just had the BB Geek Squad out to do a calibration. (I know, I know, but I got it for only $180, so I figured it was worth a shot.) Anyway, the guy got the contrast and brightness dialed in, then did the grayscale, using his Sencore sensor and hardware. But when it came to the primary and secondary colors, he said it was his belief that no service menu settings were available for adjusting primary and secondary colors. leaving us with ONLY the Perfect Color adjustments for those colors. That can't be right, can it? From ksbarnz' first post in this thread, I see him reference these service menu settings:

G(RGBCMY)L (Gain)
S(RGBCMY)L (Saturation)
H(RGBCMY)L (Hue)

Aren't those the service menu settings that the calibrator should use to adjust the colors? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this.

Sigh...3 month old WD-65735 got a solid red status light today :( no picture comes on...at least i am still in my warranty period...but come on 3 months old...this stinks!

I just recieved my WD-60735 today. If I told my wife I wanted to spend even MORE money to have someone come set up the TV she would kill me lol. I know its not the same TV, but I used ksbarnz service menu settings and other settings, I did change the contrast a little higher, but to me it looks 100 times better than it did when I took it out of the box today. I am sure it is not EXACTLy how its suppose to look, but it dont look bad.

I am thinking of buying that bluray disk to tweak the perfect color settings with. Is this the disk I need?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000V6LST0/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

Also, SD on Time warner cable looks VERY grainy? or something and looks like crap. I had a 50 inch 720p plasma for a few weeks before getting this, the plasma was defective so I went with this. the SD looked pretty darn good on that, so is there anything I can change to make this look better? Or am I just stuck with a bigger screen?

Some HD on the cable dont look quite as smooth and as clear as it did on the plasma either. Other than that it looks very good. Blu ray and Ps3 look awesome.

One other thing, and I know this is a settings thread, but quick question. What do I clean this screen with if it gets dirty? I sure dont wanna mess it up.

Thanks.

CID67 was absolutely right when he said that auto keystone correction precludes full 1080p. Using DVE before and after disabling auto keystone, the difference was readily apparent on the resolution patterns. This might explain why "Home Theater", in their their review of the WD-65835 , said that " The Mitsu, at 1080p and 1080i, did not respond cleanly to resolutions at the upper limit of the HD bandwidth (37.1 megahertz)."

The geometry of the set did not deteriorate noticably after setting the keystone setting to manual (using the geometric pattern in VDE); thus I'd encourage everyone to at least try disabling auto keystone correction. It is very easy to enable if it doesn't work out.

Many thanks for the tip, CID67.

Jim


How do you reenable the auto keystone? I disabled it and want to reenable to check the difference, thanks.

[QUOTE=Fors;16388011]How do you reenable the auto keystone? I disabled it and want to reenable to check the difference, thanks.[/QU

Still trying to figure out how to reenable it, I did do "restore keystone from backup" option but that dont seem to change anything.

Anyone know how to re-enable auto keystone?

Also, does anyone know where I could get a service manual for this tv? thanks.

Thats how you do it . You restore keystone settings from backup. If you copied new settings to the backup,this would explain why no change accrued. Are you using a resolution test pattern to verify you are not getting a change? Also, once you restore your settings ,do you press enter and exit out of the service menu?

I first want to say thanks. The tips and settings you guys have put up have been very helpful. I do have a question though. I am getting very brilliant whites. To the point where in some things its over bearing. I have the contrast and brightness set very low, and regardless of lamp mode it still bleeds white. I have a 65736. Is there a quick way from the service menu to correct this. I have the Avia disc and it seems to dial in right but on certain things you get a big white blur effect.

I don't know what "big white blur effect" means. You are going to have to be more specific on your descriptions. Perhaps a picture would help.

Your contrast control should pull down your Ftl. so if your whites have to much luminance for your liking than adjusting this down is the way to fix this. If that has no effect, short of a better description, I would say something is wrong with your set.

The contrast tip worked like a charm thanks. And to describe a little better, think of a movie clip of some clouds with the sun behind them. When you see them clearly you get the right amount of brightness and you can still make out all the clouds. The way i was set everything was very white and you couldnt make out anything clearly. I forgot to readjust the contrast last time i came out of the service menu.

a good rule of thumb is to adjust contrast to half way.

Sorry if this question has been asked before. I did a search and did not find anything. I have the 65736 set. I did basic calibration using AVS HD 709. I am happy with the result so I copied the DVD input settings to my cable input settings. Am I doing it right? Do I need to calibrate the cable input separately? If so, what are my options. Thanks for any suggestions.

Sorry if this question has been asked before. I did a search and did not find anything. I have the 65736 set. I did basic calibration using AVS HD 709. I am happy with the result so I copied the DVD input settings to my cable input settings. Am I doing it right? Do I need to calibrate the cable input separately? If so, what are my options. Thanks for any suggestions.

Anyone?

Anyone?

Have you read the manual and seen if the TV can have different settings for different inputs?

I have the 835, and I don't think mine can.

Seggers

All Mitsubishi sets store user level settings by input. To answer the question about calibrating for the STB, the answer is yes, as a starting point. There will be far more variance between broadcasts than other sources, and the STB itself may introduce some bias. You should not be afraid to tweak brightness and color level for different broadcasts as needed. I generally suggest using pass-through modes if they are available and letting the set do any resolution conversions to eliminate as much of the processing in the STB as possible.

All Mitsubishi sets store user level settings by input. To answer the question about calibrating for the STB, the answer is yes, as a starting point. There will be far more variance between broadcasts than other sources, and the STB itself may introduce some bias. You should not be afraid to tweak brightness and color level for different broadcasts as needed. I generally suggest using pass-through modes if they are available and letting the set do any resolution conversions to eliminate as much of the processing in the STB as possible.


Thanks for the suggestion. The fact that there are a wide variation from one channel to the other makes it challenging. So, do you calibrate with the worst channel? SD or HD channel?

All Mitsubishi sets store user level settings by input. .

This explains why when you add a new input you always get the default settings.

Thanks for the suggestion. The fact that there are a wide variation from one channel to the other makes it challenging. So, do you calibrate with the worst channel? SD or HD channel?

I would calibrate using the type of programming/ channels you watch the most...hopefully that would be HD programming.

My 835 is past the break in phase. I plan to have it calibrated by a pro. I have read about the short lifespan of these bulbs, especially in a hot environment such as mine.
What happens to the settings after I replace the bulb? Will my DLP retain the accuracy I paid for? I know it's a little premature to worry about this but I'm the type that needs to know.

Any suggestions on this problem? My 65835 has started turning off after about 5 minutes when I first turn it on. The green light flashes for about 2 minutes and stops and then I can turn it back on.

Thanks for the suggestion. The fact that there are a wide variation from one channel to the other makes it challenging. So, do you calibrate with the worst channel? SD or HD channel?

Calibrate to a standard signal, then adjust the brightness to get good blacks for each show that varies from the calibrated setting, and then adjust the color. Go bakc to the reference levels as a starting point. If you always watch a particular channel that is consistent, then you might want to tweak for that and leave it.

Any suggestions on this problem? My 65835 has started turning off after about 5 minutes when I first turn it on. The green light flashes for about 2 minutes and stops and then I can turn it back on.

I have a 65833, mine was shutting off on certain HD programing. Was told it was due to a signal from a local broadcaster. Both Mitsu and the local dealer worked on the problem. It was fixed by a flash memory update. Mitsu sent me a flash drive which I inserted in the USB front slot and the TV updated it's software. Problem solved, never shuts itself off anymore.

I notice the fan is getting louder I don't know if it's my imagination or what. Anyone else have this problem? It's still under waranty so I think I'm calling the Dealer tomorrow.

Is anyone having problems with their PerfecTint controls not functioning on their 73835?

Any suggestions on this problem? My 65835 has started turning off after about 5 minutes when I first turn it on. The green light flashes for about 2 minutes and stops and then I can turn it back on.

The firmware that was mentioned above is your best bet, but I had a WD-Y65 that was doing this, and it was a different problem. The sensor that prevents overheating was positioned too close to the bulb. This gave a false reading that the TV was overheating, and it would shut down. Mitsu guy came out and re-positioned the sensor, and it stopped shutting down.

Any suggestions on this problem? My 65835 has started turning off after about 5 minutes when I first turn it on. The green light flashes for about 2 minutes and stops and then I can turn it back on.


Does it only turn off in 5 minutes if it's being fed no signal? If so, turn your "Video Mute" off in the global menu section .

Hey guys -- great thread you got here. Very informative. Have a question though.

I recently purchased my WD-73835 TV about a month ago and just had it professionally calibrated due to the blues being insanely oversatured. The colors, in my opinion, now look great but I now have noticed more 'stretched' grain or artifacts in the picture. I tried messing around with the contrast, brightness, and DF Imager in the regular menu, yet it did not eliminate it (turning off the DF imager helped a little but not much). Also messing with the Video Noise settings and sharpness did not help. So now I'm wondering if it's a gamma issue or what? From my knowledge, the graininess was definitely there before the calibration, yet not at this amount.

I'd consider myself tech-savvy and picture-savvy (I'm a cameraman as well as a filmmaker), but I don't want to mess it up without some input from somebody.

My regular Menu settings now are:
Brilliant
Contrast:50
Brightness:35
Color:28
Tint:30
Sharpness:24
ColorTemp:High
VideoNoise:Medium


Any help would be great. Thanks.

Note: I'm testing the image on u-verse cable (HD source), as well as a Philips blu ray player (notice the grain more on blu ray more then u-verse).

cpro,
I can't believe that you had the set professionally calibrated and these are your settings!
Get that thing out of Brilliant mode! If your room has a lot of light maybe bright mode, but natural mode and color temp low is the closest to 6500k standard.
Video noise for HD programming should be set to off, deep field imager should also be set to off.
Good luck!

PHXHEAT

cpro,
I can't believe that you had the set professionally calibrated and these are your settings!
Get that thing out of Brilliant mode! If your room has a lot of light maybe bright mode, but natural mode and color temp low is the closest to 6500k standard.
Video noise for HD programming should be set to off, deep field imager should also be set to off.
Good luck!

PHXHEAT

Hey thanks for the advice. The settings you suggested helped out a bit, but my god is there still a ton of grain on my blu ray player input. The weirdest thing is that on CableBox input I can't tell at all. So as a result, I tried switching inputs, changing HDMI, and still nothing. My blu ray player is a Philips 7200 so that shouldn't be the problem (I tried it on another hdtv either way and it was fine), so I'm just kind of at a loss and extremely dissapointed. Are there any settings I can give anybody in the hard menu that could help possibly find an answer, or something else?

Thanks...

Is anyone having problems with their PerfecTint controls not functioning on their 73835?

Define not functioning? On my 65835 I was trying to calibrate, adjusting the perfect tint and perfect color settings and as soon as I turned the set off they would reset. Even though I only had one 'Source' active in the menu, I had to SELECT the that source THEN adjust those setting and they stuck.

Not sure what you are experiencing.

Any suggestions on this problem? My 65835 has started turning off after about 5 minutes when I first turn it on. The green light flashes for about 2 minutes and stops and then I can turn it back on.

I had something similar happening when I had one of the power saver type features enabled, something about how the bulb powered on...I'll have to look at the menu's when I get home and see were that was.

My 835 is past the break in phase. I plan to have it calibrated by a pro. I have read about the short lifespan of these bulbs, especially in a hot environment such as mine.
What happens to the settings after I replace the bulb? Will my DLP retain the accuracy I paid for? I know it's a little premature to worry about this but I'm the type that needs to know.

My understanding is that the settings change as the bulb gets older and there is some variance from bulb to bulb. One would hope that if you replaced the bulb and got past the break-in period again that it would be close for awhile.

I bought a calibrator and did mine, I'll check it again in a year and see how much its off.

Define not functioning? On my 65835 I was trying to calibrate, adjusting the perfect tint and perfect color settings and as soon as I turned the set off they would reset. Even though I only had one 'Source' active in the menu, I had to SELECT the that source THEN adjust those setting and they stuck.

Not sure what you are experiencing..



Using DVE and the RBG filters provided I was able to adjust Perfect Color to near perfection, but when I adjusted Perfect Tint I saw virtually no change. There was no issue of the changes not sticking.

Jim

Hey thanks for the advice. The settings you suggested helped out a bit, but my god is there still a ton of grain on my blu ray player input. The weirdest thing is that on CableBox input I can't tell at all. So as a result, I tried switching inputs, changing HDMI, and still nothing. My blu ray player is a Philips 7200 so that shouldn't be the problem (I tried it on another hdtv either way and it was fine), so I'm just kind of at a loss and extremely dissapointed. Are there any settings I can give anybody in the hard menu that could help possibly find an answer, or something else?

Thanks...

CPRO,

Are you adjusting the settings for each input? The settings are input dependent and not universal for all inputs on the TV. You say that your cablebox looks good, but your bluray play looks grainy, make sure to make the specified adjustments while you are using the bluray player, and use your settings from the cablebox input as a guide. Hope that makes sense. Good Luck!

PHXHEAT

Hey thanks for the advice. The settings you suggested helped out a bit, but my god is there still a ton of grain on my blu ray player input. The weirdest thing is that on CableBox input I can't tell at all. So as a result, I tried switching inputs, changing HDMI, and still nothing. My blu ray player is a Philips 7200 so that shouldn't be the problem (I tried it on another hdtv either way and it was fine), so I'm just kind of at a loss and extremely dissapointed. Are there any settings I can give anybody in the hard menu that could help possibly find an answer, or something else?

I know you say you checked on a different HDTV, without issue but I still have to ask, are you sure that what you are seeing is noise and not actual film grain?

have you tried more than one disk to confirm that the source material is not the problem. try a Pixar movie for instance.

A small amount of grain is normal on most movies. Also, keep in mind that This isn't always able to be seen on every set depending on resolution and picture settings.

I know you say you checked on a different HDTV, without issue but I still have to ask, are you sure that what you are seeing is noise and not actual film grain?

have you tried more than one disk to confirm that the source material is not the problem. try a Pixar movie for instance.

A small amount of grain is normal on most movies. Also, keep in mind that This isn't always able to be seen on every set depending on resolution and picture settings.

Yes, I know how amateurish my problem/questions are sounding in terms of the vocabulary (stretchy-grain and such), so I can understand what you mean when asking if its film grain or not. To me, its definitely not film grain. Upon looking at it further (each time I really notice the 'stretch grain'), the problems really show up in the blacks, as if the gamma is really being pushed or something. I noticed right off the bat once I got it calibrated, the more significant detail in the blacks, so now I'm wondering if it is too much detail, and as a result the tv is being pushed one or another. Hope that makes sense.


CPRO,

Are you adjusting the settings for each input? The settings are input dependent and not universal for all inputs on the TV. You say that your cablebox looks good, but your bluray play looks grainy, make sure to make the specified adjustments while you are using the bluray player, and use your settings from the cablebox input as a guide. Hope that makes sense. Good Luck!

PHXHEAT

Yes, I am switching the settings for each input. Thanks for the luck!

Hey everyone,

I decided I'm going to purchase the calibration equipment myself and give the calibration a go. While I'm waiting, I was wanting to reset it back to the original settings. I saw on the first post how to do this, but I was wondering if that method resets everything back to factory defaults (grayscale and everything). I only ask because I don't want to have no TV for a week while I wait for the order to come in.

Thanks.

Hey everyone,

I decided I'm going to purchase the calibration equipment myself and give the calibration a go. While I'm waiting, I was wanting to reset it back to the original settings. I saw on the first post how to do this, but I was wondering if that method resets everything back to factory defaults (grayscale and everything). I only ask because I don't want to have no TV for a week while I wait for the order to come in.

Thanks.

My experience with the reset is that it will reset all the user menus back to defaults, it did NOT set the service menu's back to their original values.