OK everyone, There is a serious bug in the service menu that may indeed ruin your set. I was calibrating my set yesterday and I was adjusting the blue hue control in the service menu when all hell broke loose.

I adjusted the setting just one digit ( something I have done a million times before without issue) and when I pressed enter to save, most of my service menu values jumped to different numbers all at once. This screwed both the high and low color settings. The grayscale settings are in various positions ranging from the 20000 to 60000 range. Needless to say this is an extremely high setting .

This would take hours and hours to bring back down to normal levels but the kicker is it wont let you. it will go down but than will recycle to a higher number again before I can get to the correct number, preventing me from ever attaining the correct numbers.

I decided the best thing to do is restore white level and geometry from backup but it had no effect and no, I haven't saved any new settings to backup in the past so that doesn't explain things. Basically I'm screwed. I have the service manual and have been trying the suggestions in it for nulling the data for the keystone correction (1+enter) but doing so for my bad data values instead. So far this may be working to allow me to get past the loop back point but I am not totaly sure yet.

My set is three months out of warranty and is a free replacement for a previous defective set. What can I do? Anyone have any good advice.

If I am going to have to replace a part can someone give me an estimate as to how much it will cost and what that part will likely be.

I just wanted to let you all know this is a completely random event and it strikes without mercy. good luck all.

This exact thing happened to my set about a year ago. I let Mitsubishi try all of their fixes, and when nothing worked, I refused a replacement, and got a refund. If they replaced your set under warranty, I would try to argue that case, that even the replacement failed. There are other people on this forum that have also had this problem, some were sucessful replacing the main board, I was not. I no longer have this TV, but it is well documented with Mitsubishi that this is not a one off incident. Good Luck. I'm sure others can chime in with their experiences.
My set was an 835.

Mark

cid67, You are making me nervous about going back into the service menu. Your problem sounds a lot like this one. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15323339&postcount=449
I would contact Mitsubishi. Let us know the outcome. Good luck.

That appears to be the same bug, although it effected some different settings in his case. It does truly look totally random.

I have had some luck in getting a watchable picture back. What I have found is that you can't just look at the numbers and from that deduce what way you have to go to get things right because sometimes the numbers have to go up and recycle to the bottom to get to a lower number you are trying to arrive at. In other cases the numbers will not go back to where they where before because the have a set amount of adjustment room in ether direction that will not allow it to go back. In that case I have just looked at the picture and decided based on it what way it needs to go and have found that i can adjust the parameter to get the correct setting even though the numbers don't match even close to what they used to be. thank god for my eye one pro.

from all this I am hopeful that with some work I may beable to at least recover my picture just not my numerical values.

I am going to contact mitsubishi and see about getting the firmware on a flash drive. I have heard they have supplied these for other sets in the past. perhaps it will help.



I cant realy complain to Mitsubishi for this as its really my own fault for going into the service menu and I was aware of the potential risk but I am ticked that Mitsubishi would leave such a crippling bug in the service menu. If I didn't know what I was doing and just started messing with stuff I would deserve what I got but I knew exactly what I was doing. I know what every relevant setting does with regard to calibration and I have confirmed them both by measurement and by second opinion, I also have the service manual so I'm not just some ignorant schmuck.

By the way for those that don't already know, my set is a wd-65835

I just wanted to give you all an update on my service menu problems.

I have been able to make a full recovery and my set is now fully calibrated again. I had to adapt to the changes in the service menu and with the help of my eye one pro I was able to null out the wacky settings. I cant get the numbers back to normal ranges in some cases but even though they are way off numerically, there was still range to adjust the settings till they where right visually.

I think I was lucky. What happened is, my red and green grayscale adjustment was pushed to where those two colors where completely black and the blue was pushed so far up that it was crushing highlight detail. the result was a picture that was bright blue and lacking in most detail. this made it hard but not impossible to see the service menu.

I think if the bug in the system had killed all three colors I wouldn't have been able to see anything and I would have had no way to know what I was doing or what settings where skewed. So, everyone, I advise you all to tred lightly in the service menu and be aware this can happen to you at any time while working in the service menu.

Cid, I’m glad to hear you were able to recover your picture. Do you still intend to talk to Mitsubishi about your experience?

I don't know yet. I may still talk to them to see if there is a way to flash the cmos on the set. There is a jumper that is labeled cmos on the light engine and I am curious as to what may happen if I actually completed the circuit. Of course, I'm not curious enough to try it without some concrete information on it first as this could royaly screw my set and I just got it working again.

What can I say, I'm a tinkerer at heart.

I just reached the end of my warranty on my Mits WD60-735. I have read thru too many pages, and haven't found what I am looking for. I just got the bulb replaced right before thewarranty ran out literally on the last day of the waranty. Close to 5,000 hours. I must admit that's the longest any DLP bulb has lasted me. OK enough talking right to the point.
My problem is after the TV turns off. Several minutes later the timer button starts flashing and the fan for the bulb kicks on. I have tried holding format + guide, then pushing system reset(to run diagnostic), I get 4-5 slow flashes on the lamp led. About evey five minutes or s the fan for the bulb kicks on and the timer light flashes as if in system reset. I do not know how to pull up the service menu, other than menu 2457, and menu 2470 to check lamp hours, and when i go into digital readings it says there are 0 errors, and 0 uncorrectable erors. Any ideas, or suggestions? Thanks in advance! Feel free to pm me, or just post reply in thread. Is there a menu command I can enter to get into the service menu? And is there a self diagnostic other than the one I mentioned before? Do NOT want to spend any more money on the set to call out a professional. Other than that the set is perfect! HELP! :(

I wanted to share a Calman calibration of my Mitsubishi wd-65835 with anybody that may be interested.

Keep in mind that this set has a nonadjustable auto iris when viewing luminance and gamma.

Let Me know what you think.

hey guys, quick question

i have a 65736 that i am trying to sell. someone asked me if it was good for games. idk, i don't game.

so, how is it for games ?

thanx

I hear its great. I know my wd-65835 is awesome for games. In fact, I'm playing Uncharted 2 as we speak.

thanx. is there a way to find hours of use ?

thanx

There is a way to determine hours of use but It wont tell you how many hours may actually be on the lamp if it has been changed because the hour counter doesn't reset.

It will tell you how many total hours the set has operated. Press menu 2457 on the remote to activate the option menu. at the bottom of the screen you will see a number that represents the hours on the set. press exit to exit.

Why are you selling, if you dont mind my asking. I hear these sets are great . They calibrate really well. See my previously posted example for an idea how well these sets can be adjusted.

There is a way to determine hours of use but It wont tell you how many hours may actually be on the lamp if it has been changed because the hour counter doesn't reset.

It will tell you how many total hours the set has operated. Press menu 2457 on the remote to activate the option menu. at the bottom of the screen you will see a number that represents the hours on the set. press exit to exit.

Why are you selling, if you dont mind my asking. I hear these sets are great . They calibrate really well. See my previously posted example for an idea how well these sets can be adjusted.

thanx

i have never changed the bulb, is it has less than 100hrs on it. i would just like to know exactly what it has.

i was sooooo impressed with the picture, that i just had to have more. so now i have a projector. i wish i could keep this 65". i just don't have another place to use it, its to big.

There is a way to determine hours of use but It wont tell you how many hours may actually be on the lamp if it has been changed because the hour counter doesn't reset.

It will tell you how many total hours the set has operated. Press menu 2457 on the remote to activate the option menu. at the bottom of the screen you will see a number that represents the hours on the set. press exit to exit.

Why are you selling, if you dont mind my asking. I hear these sets are great . They calibrate really well. See my previously posted example for an idea how well these sets can be adjusted.

CID67, it's menu 2470 rather than 2457.

Regards,

Jim

sorry my bad, I was reading directly from the service menu and I must have not been reading close enough.

How do I save my custom picture settings? Every time I make custom adjustments and turn power off to TV, they revert to defaut settings. I have WD-73736. What I gather from my research in this forum if I change input 1 from AVR to HDMI input 1 the settings will save. Is there any way to get this to work with the AVR input? I have Onkyo receiver and all sources input to the receiver then out to the display using HDMI AVR input.

Hi all.

I'm really tempted to buy the i1 and Calman to do a calibration of my 73736 (and later my computer monitors and panels), and although I'm trying to read every post in here, the amount of information now makes this a bit of a daunting task, so I apologize if it's already been mentioned...

The laptop on which I'd be running the calibration software has HDMI output so I could potentially use it for generating the test patterns that are measured by the i1. Is that something that's provided by Calman or do I have to use a calibration DVD or the set's own test screens?

I guess I could just play a test DVD (I have getgray which I believe has the necessary patterns) from the laptop itself but I just thought I'd ask to see if calman is 'turnkey' in that it can do the test screens too... Is there any reason this would NOT be the way to go?

Sorry if my question's dumb, I'm still sort of staring over the edge of the calibration cliff... Just looking for a nudge.

I know Calman can interface with pattern generators and through this the measurement process of Calman can be automated but I cant say for sure if it is possible to have Calman output test-patterns directly over HDMI. I don't think my Calman license allows this, anyways.

What I suggest is that you download Calman and give it a try yourself. It has a demo mode that uses a simulated meter so you can practice trying out all of Calman's features. Be ready to invest significant time and effort but take it from another videophile who has accepted the calibration challenge and won, Its not impossible and with Calman most of the science goes on behind the scenes and it has a much more, almost mechanical feel to it.No more Difficult math or other technical aspects to slow you down and over complicate an otherwise already complicated process. So if your a knob turner/ or are as obsessive compulsive as I am, dive in. just be sure to look before you leap.

I just bought a WD-65835.

When I watch comcast, there are a series of lines that run on the bottom of the screen and/or run vertically from right to left. It would be the color of the screen and can usually be seen in bright scenes. I saw it a lot on NFL Network. It would be like 5 lines, about 3 inches horizontally and all the way down of the screen vertically.

When I watch blu-ray there is not a hint of this happening. I use a receiver so it is not the HDMI port.

Anyone have any ideas what this might be?

Hi All,

I've had my 73835 for almost a year (1 week left in warranty). When I first received the display I set it up using the NetCommand setup in chapter 6 so that all my AVR inputs (and color correction) would be displayed and operable on and via the Mitsu. Yesterday I turned the set on and everything reverted to Day 1, i.e. the AVR icon was now present on the screen rather than the various inputs on the AVR (also lost color correction settings). Any ideas why this happened almost a year later?

Thanks in advance,

Jim

I just bought a WD-65835.

When I watch comcast, there are a series of lines that run on the bottom of the screen and/or run vertically from right to left. It would be the color of the screen and can usually be seen in bright scenes. I saw it a lot on NFL Network. It would be like 5 lines, about 3 inches horizontally and all the way down of the screen vertically.

When I watch blu-ray there is not a hint of this happening. I use a receiver so it is not the HDMI port.

Anyone have any ideas what this might be?

Have you tried swapping the inputs between Blu-ray and Comcast on your receiver? Then see if the Blu-ray starts having the issue?

I have found the best settings are from CNET.

Video settings menu

Picture Mode: Natural

Contrast: 32

Brightness: 36

Color: 31

Tint: 28

Sharpness: 28

Color Temp: Low



PerfectColor menu:

Magenta: 33

Red: 31

Yellow: 37

Green: 46

Cyan: 30

Blue: 31

dead thread

nah - just these are models that are two years old now and most people, like myself, have the TV 'calibrated'.

I have a 65835 TV that works great. Just wondering if there has been any software updates?

I have a 65835 TV that works great. Just wondering if there has been any software updates?

I have the 73835 and have never seen any upgrade for these sets.

That is a good thing then.

I have the 73835 and was looking for comments on enabling 3D, and is it worth doing it?

The 3D thread is long and a little confusing as to what is really required and what is the best set-up. Hoping someone here with a 73835 diamond can enlighten me.

I have the 65735. I bought a Panasonic 3D player that does checkerboard so I could hold off on buying the converter until there are regular enough events in 3D that I have to watch it. I simply had to set the player to send the signal in Checkerboard, and made sure to enable 3D in the Mitsu settings menu. I occasionally get a hiccup where the player will believe I don't have a 3D connected device. I simply restart the player, and all is well.

Thanks for the reply, I recently signed up for comcast cable and I think they have some 3d channels that hopefully I can record with my tivo. I have a PS3 that serves as my BD player. I THINK from what I've read so far that I need the adapter (for viewing cable content and for the PS3) and the dlp link glasses? Hoping someone with a 73835 will offer some advice.

Yes, you'll need the adapter to connect the cable box and PS3 to the TV. If you have a audio receiver that will pass 3D signals, you can run the PS3 and cable box to it, then run the HDMI out cable to the 3D converter box. Otherwise you'll have to manually change cables to the converter box. The PS3 doesn't send out checkerboard formatted signals, and I have yet to hear of a television provider that sends 3D in checkerboard either.

Thanks

Anyone know a supplier who has the 3d-1 adapter in stock?

Ebay or Amazon

:eek: Yeah but not cheap like they were before

Update: I ordered an adapter today from Sears: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM6466677702P?srccode=cii_18492716&cpncode=27-92985498-2&sid=IDx20101019x00001b&i_cntr=1328280669269 not cheap but less than what's currently on ebay and Amazon