I just finished staining a bar we built for the back of the theater. It is stained to match the rest of the theater trim work that was done by a painter about a year ago. The trim turned out really nice, so I tried to duplicate the process he used. He put on two coats of Porter stain, then a Sanding Sealer, finished with 2 coats of Minwax Poly, 320 between coats.

After the second coat of Stain I put on the bar dried, I put on a thin coat of Porter Sanding Sealer. After a light sand, I happened to notice that back of the can says DO NOT TOP WITH POLYURETHANE.?? The porter site is recommending a Varnish to use with thier sanding sealer. However, I'm fairly certain that the painter used the Porter Sanding Sealer. He used a Poly, and it came out fine. I guess there is a chance he used a different type of sanding sealer...can some be used with Poly, and others not?? I'm afraid to try a Poly on it now, as I'm worried it may not adhere to the sanding sealer. Any ideas?? I obviously would like the bar finish to match the other trim. Will a varnish look the same as Poly? Can I do one coat of varnish, and then Poly over that?? Any suggestions welcome as I'm rather new to finishing wood.

I just finished staining a bar we built for the back of the theater. It is stained to match the rest of the theater trim work that was done by a painter about a year ago. The trim turned out really nice, so I tried to duplicate the process he used. He put on two coats of Porter stain, then a Sanding Sealer, finished with 2 coats of Minwax Poly, 320 between coats.

After the second coat of Stain I put on the bar dried, I put on a thin coat of Porter Sanding Sealer. After a light sand, I happened to notice that back of the can says DO NOT TOP WITH POLYURETHANE.?? The porter site is recommending a Varnish to use with thier sanding sealer. However, I'm fairly certain that the painter used the Porter Sanding Sealer. He used a Poly, and it came out fine. I guess there is a chance he used a different type of sanding sealer...can some be used with Poly, and others not?? I'm afraid to try a Poly on it now, as I'm worried it may not adhere to the sanding sealer. Any ideas?? I obviously would like the bar finish to match the other trim. Will a varnish look the same as Poly? Can I do one coat of varnish, and then Poly over that?? Any suggestions welcome as I'm rather new to finishing wood.

I am not a master woodworker, but have done my fair share. I had a cabinet builder do my kitchen a couple years ago and the same process was used. I do not know what brand he used, but he did use a sanding sealer and a poly over the top.

My suggestion would be to try it in an inconspicuous place or a scrap piece of wood to see the results.

... or call the painter and ask.

I used dewaxed shellac on my staining projects but this mite ease your mind. You mite want to do a bit more research but I think you will be fine. what you could do is use a few more coats of the dewaxed over the waxed and then cover with your poly

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Regular_or_dewaxed_shellac.html

It should be fine, although I'm not sure what purpose the sanding sealer has after you have put down the stain. Usually a sanding sealer is there to help get even stain absorption.

For your other question, varnish will not look the same as poly so I wouldn't try to switch if you want the same look as your trim. hdtheater has the best advice - test on a scrap piece of wood and make sure that you are happy with the results.

A question like this raises two issues: (1) Will there be problems with solvent incompatibility? and (2) Will there be problems with adhesion?

Solvent incompatibility problems are most often due to not allowing the first layer of finish to completely cure. If the first layer isn't fully cured and you put a second layer of something on top, solvents trapped in the first layer can do strange things. So let the first layer cure completely and you shouldn't have any problems.

Finishes adhere to one another through chemical adhesion, mechanical adhesion or both. Chemical adhesion generally requires exactly the same type of finish be used on both layers. However, mechanical adhesion works almost as well. Mechanical adhesion is what you get when you scuff-sand the first layer before applying the second layer. So let the sanding sealer dry and then scuff-sand with 220 grit, and you shouldn't have any problems.

I I'm afraid to try a Poly on it now, as I'm worried it may not adhere to the sanding sealer. Any ideas??

First, the manufacturer is probably right. Second, you're in uncharted territory going against their recommendations. So, don't touch your bar until you do some experimenting with some wood samples! I would try several iterations of the sanding sealer, de-waxed shellac, polyurethane approach. Also, let your samples sit for a couple of weeks to see if there is any slow degradation of the coatings. There is a book "Understanding Wood Finishing" that can help avoid painting yourself into a corner like this:p. If you're the thrifty type you can check out the book at most libraries.

I think if you really want to know the answer to your questions is to go here http://www.sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?f=23 alot of these guys to finish work for a living. I got my answers there.

I myself used 4 coats zinnser Dewaxed shellac sanding sealer then 3 coats minwax wipe on poly worked like a dream

http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/shellac_test/dewaxed_shellac.html

OK,

Talked to the painter. The sanding sealer serves two purposes. 1) raises, fills and seals the grain and fuzzies so that when sanded the wood will be level for the finish coats. 2) Dries fast (hour) and is easy/quick to sand off vs. sanding a first coat of Poly.

He did use a specific one that is compatible with Poly. Suggested I stick with a Varnish. The top of the bar is going to be a thick pour top, and he mentioned that varnish would probably match it better than Poly anyway. The bar sits by itself behind the riser, so won't be directly next to the finish trim that was done in Poly. We'll see how it goes. Hope to get a first coat on this evening.

So for wood like pine or other soft woods you use shallac first diluted with alcohol and then stain? This applies a more even coat from what I have read. Is this true? If so, what would you use as a sealer after the stain?

Thanks.

I have always botched wood finishes and I would love to get a professional look. I always used stain first and then a poly. IE: If I was looking to use plywood as my finished surface.

Thanks!

So for wood like pine or other soft woods you use shallac first diluted with alcohol and then stain? This applies a more even coat from what I have read. Is this true? If so, what would you use as a sealer after the stain?

Thanks.

I have always botched wood finishes and I would love to get a professional look. I always used stain first and then a poly. IE: If I was looking to use plywood as my finished surface.

Thanks!

Go to the library and check out "Understanding Wood Finishing" Lots of color pictures and graphics, a well organized and easy to read reference. It explains just about every newbie question. Here (http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0762101911/ref=sib_dp_pt#reader-link) is the table of contents. As the book says "there is no secret to getting a good wood finish" I would add with this book there is no longer any excuse either.

OK,

Talked to the painter. The sanding sealer serves two purposes. 1) raises, fills and seals the grain and fuzzies so that when sanded the wood will be level for the finish coats. 2) Dries fast (hour) and is easy/quick to sand off vs. sanding a first coat of Poly.

He did use a specific one that is compatible with Poly. Suggested I stick with a Varnish. The top of the bar is going to be a thick pour top, and he mentioned that varnish would probably match it better than Poly anyway. The bar sits by itself behind the riser, so won't be directly next to the finish trim that was done in Poly. We'll see how it goes. Hope to get a first coat on this evening.

Are you using epoxy resin for the thick pour top.If so make sure every nook and cranny is sealed tight,otherwise it will leak out everyplace that is not sealed.I was going to do the same,but elected to go with Behlin Rockhard finish.It looks like epoxy and is resistant to water,chemicals and scratch resistant.I applied 5 coats sanding with 320 grit between each coat.It has a high gloss finish but can be sanded with 1000 or 1500 grit to get a satin looh

Hi. Yes. Think we are going to use a epoxy finish on just the flat bar area. It is pretty much contained on the back and side by wood and in the front by the ridge of the bar. Was planning on caulking the seams though to keep anythign from seaping out.

First coat of varnish went on well. Looking good. Will see if I can post a picture.

Now, on to more important things....where can I find 3 of those bar top plates they use at the bar for food at outback steakhouse?? :)