I had a question about the right way to frame my basement. I've seen it done two ways. One where the bottom 2x4 is a pressure treated piece that is in direct contact with the cement slab floor and then I've also seen it where there is a gap under the bottom 2x4 and the cement slab floor. Which is the correct way to do it?

The basement was already separated into three rooms basically. Already drywall (unfinished) hung on some walls

Also my basement is 28 x 24
Main Area: 28' 4.5" x 13'
Laundry Room: 11' x 10' 6.5" (first doorway on right)
Workout Room: 17' 4.5" x 11' (other doorway)

If I remember correctly the height is 85", that's from the floor to the bottom of the joist.

The workout room (well what it will end up as) houses the sump pump which I will box and put a door on for access. It has a some sheet metal duct running right through the middle of it. Ideally I'd like to move it to one side or the other making the middle of the room taller if you will. Is this something a professional needs to come in and do because I'm changing the length of the sheet metal runs and all that? No that's not a venomous albino snake in the way, it's the cord for the shop light. See how it's dead smack in the middle of the room. Anyway to move it?
http://mydropzone.net/images/misc/duct.jpg


How does the layout look? The screen will go on the far wall where the window is. This is not a completely dedicated theater room. There will be a large screen but it will double as a rec room complete with a MAME cabinet.
http://mydropzone.net/images/misc/basement.jpg

thanks!

The method with the pressure treated lumber is generally the way to go unless your local code specifies otherwise.

The method with the gap between the bottom plate and the floor I believe is used in areas with a lot of settling/shifting in surrounding earth (Colorado comes to mind). Basically the wall is decoupled from the floor so that if the floor shifts, the wall won't move.

I had a question about the right way to frame my basement. I've seen it done two ways. One where the bottom 2x4 is a pressure treated piece that is in direct contact with the cement slab floor and then I've also seen it where there is a gap under the bottom 2x4 and the cement slab floor. Which is the correct way to do it?

I believe the "floating wall" installations were in areas of the country that have problems with expansive soils. I think the building code in some parts of Colorado requires floating basement walls, so that the main structure of the house won't be affected if expansive soil heaves the basement slab. If you don't have expansive soil in your area, there's probably no reason not to attach the bottom plate to the slab.


Laundry Room: 11' x 10' 6.5" (first doorway on right)
Workout Room: 17' 4.5" x 11' (other doorway)

It looks like this layout would require anyone headed to the laundry room or workout room to walk through the theater. That's probably not an ideal layout. Any chance that the laundry room and workout room could be accessed differently? Maybe you could take part of the laundry room to make a hallway that would provide access to the laundry and the workout room.

It looks like this layout would require anyone headed to the laundry room or workout room to walk through the theater. That's probably not an ideal layout. Any chance that the laundry room and workout room could be accessed differently? Maybe you could take part of the laundry room to make a hallway that would provide access to the laundry and the workout room.

good point, while it's not a true dedicated theater it would still be nice to have it somewhat separate. Maybe have access from the laundry room to the workout room and close off the original workout room door. I like it.

anything else on the framing method I should go with? I'm looking to pick up some lumber after work and get started on the workout room.

if you don't live in an area that requires a floating frame design, than frame it the traditional way. Probably much simpilar for you to do too.

Old.

Something you may want to think about is if you want to include a subfloor like Dricore. Basement floors can be mighty cold during the winter and using Dricore helps keep the room warmer. I used it and it really makes a difference. You can either install it after the framing or frame on top of it. There are several threads on Dricore here. Just do a search.

if you don't live in an area that requires a floating frame design, than frame it the traditional way. Probably much simpilar for you to do too.

Old.

where can I find out if my area requires that?

Call your city government center. They should be able to tell you.

ok I talked to the Town building and zoning guru and he said i'm good to go with securing the framing right to the slab which is cool for me for two reasons. One being that it seems to be the way everyone does it from what I've seen and two I get to buy a ramset :D

My next question would be if I need a vapor barrier and if so does it go between the concrete block and the framing or on the outside (closest to the inside space of the room) and cover the studs and insulation? Do I use some heavy duty plastic material or something else? Hope that makes sense

i know in ohio they dont like using a vapor barrier on studs. it tends to trap moisture causing a mold harvest.

hm, as I read more about vapor barriers the more interesting (read confusing) it seems. Some people glue 1/2" rigid insulation to the conrete blocks and tape the seams and then build the frame right up against the rigid board and then use rolls of insulation to fill the frame in, not sure if it's got the kraft paper attached or not though.

There is a lot of confusion regarding vapor barriers. In contrast to sparho's statement, in my part of Ohio, the building inspector requires a vapor barrier on the room-side of the insulation.

This is another case where it's probably easiest to call your building and zoning guru.

I recently spent the better part of a day reading through info at the Building Science Corporation web site. There's a ton of information about the latest research about vapor barriers and renovating basements. A good place to start is
http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/vapor_barrier_code_changes
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements/?topic=/resources/homeowner_resources
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0509c-renovating-existing-basements/?topic=/resources/homeowner_resources

There is a lot of confusion regarding vapor barriers. In contrast to sparho's statement, in my part of Ohio, the building inspector requires a vapor barrier on the room-side of the insulation.

This is another case where it's probably easiest to call your building and zoning guru.

I was afraid of that, this guy acted like he was doing me the hugest favor just by answering my call let alone answering my question. :rolleyes:


I recently spent the better part of a day reading through info at the Building Science Corporation web site. There's a ton of information about the latest research about vapor barriers and renovating basements. A good place to start is
http://www.buildingscience.com/resou...r_code_changes
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wner_resources
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wner_resources

I'll check those articles out, thanks!

alright I've spent awhile reading those documents. This is what I think I've learned.

Concrete Block wall | Foam board | Frame | insulation , is tha tpaper faced or non paper insulation?

I also saw

concrete block wall | gap | frame | paper face insulation (paper facing towards inside of basement)

suggestions on either method?

I would use 1" XPS (pink or blue foam board), pink is tounge and groove, so less seam taping. Adhere this directly to your block/cement wall with foam board adhesive, build/frame your wall next (I wouldn't worry about a gap, build right up against the XPS) and if you want you can put insulation in the wall. It might not be necessary once you get the XPS up...depends on the climate your in. The 1" XPS is an R value of about 6, so you could probably throw some cheap R-13 in the wall and be fine. You can use either faced or unfaced at this point, because the XPS acts as your moisture barrier. You will find that the faced will probably be easier to use as you can staple the insulation to the studs. Drywall next and your good to go.

alright now I've got some materials to work with. Picked up the lumber and rigid insulation I needed, I get home and start formulating my plan (read staring at one of the walls I'm going to start on) and realized I didn't get anything to secure the rigid insulation to the wall with :rolleyes:

Can I just pick up some liquid nails or is there something else I should use? If it matters the wall has been dryloked.

This is what I got (please God be the right stuff)
http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/lowes/products/tuffr.htm

If I'm wrong please let me know so I can return it and get the right stuff.

Hmmm. I think you got the wrong foam board. From what I undertood from reading everything when I did my walls you don't really want the foil faced stuff. I'm pretty sure this is what you want:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100320343&N=10000003+90010+527397

That is what I used and I did mine exactly as you described;
Concrete Block wall | Foam board | Frame | insulation. (Use unfaced batts by the way)

As for the glue, you can find something similar to liquid nails but it is made for foam board. In other words, it won't melt it. It's in the same aisle as the liguid nails and stuff.

Here are some photos of what I did. Hope this helps.

Andy

Hmmm. I think you got the wrong foam board. From what I undertood from reading everything when I did my walls you don't really want the foil faced stuff. I'm pretty sure this is what you want:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100320343&N=10000003+90010+527397

That is what I used and I did mine exactly as you described;
Concrete Block wall | Foam board | Frame | insulation. (Use unfaced batts by the way)

As for the glue, you can find something similar to liquid nails but it is made for foam board. In other words, it won't melt it. It's in the same aisle as the liguid nails and stuff.

Here are some photos of what I did. Hope this helps.

Andy

I think I was a little too excited when I was FINALLY purchasing some materials. I will return the foil faced stuff and pick up the pink stuff. I'll post pics of my progress today or maybe actually start a real "my theater build thread"

Thanks!=

The foam board gule is called PL300 (PL Premium) and it is made so as not to melt the foam.

IF you have the option, btw, you may want to explore using a closed-cell spray foam solution. Not THAT much more expensive (but it is more $), but it provides a vapour barrier as well as an air barrier, which may eliminate the requirement for a plastic sheeting. Check with your local by-laws/building code, but it's the best option out there, if you can do it.

If you're going with rigid foam, don't forget to tuck tape ALL seams, and spray foam the bottom (leave a little gap between the foam and the floor).

Hmmm. I think you got the wrong foam board. From what I undertood from reading everything when I did my walls you don't really want the foil faced stuff. I'm pretty sure this is what you want:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100320343&N=10000003+90010+527397

That is what I used and I did mine exactly as you described;
Concrete Block wall | Foam board | Frame | insulation. (Use unfaced batts by the way)

As for the glue, you can find something similar to liquid nails but it is made for foam board. In other words, it won't melt it. It's in the same aisle as the liguid nails and stuff.

Here are some photos of what I did. Hope this helps.

Andy




Any reason you cannot use faced bats and just cut slits in it for easier installation?

Never heard of that. Not sure. I If you don't have the wall thickness to use unfaced it isn't too hard to peel the paper off faced batts.

The idea as I understand it is that the foam board acts as the thermal barrier between the concrete wall and to inslulation. This slows down the heat transfer so as not to create condensation and allows any moisture that is there evaporate. Using faced batts would act as a second barrier and possibly promote the buildup moisture in the wall.

If it were me, I would just use unfaced or peel off the paper.

Just my .02.