I bought the i1 Display 2 meter and used hcfr to calibrate my monitors since i do graphic work. However, i was wanting to also use it to calibrate my projector. But because the i1 display meter is made to actually lay on the screen's surface i am at a loss as how to use it to measure the projector's image. Any help?
Thanks!

Greetings

Tape it to a tripod and point it at the screen.

regards

This might help: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
and this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029594

Read, read, read.

Excellent, thanks to the both of you. :)

Ok, two more questions since i already have a topic up.
I've seen it stated a few times that the i1 displays are made mainly for upclose/touch reading, and that going further from the screen causes the meter to become inaccurate. Can this be remedied by perhaps placing a tube or something to help keep out any ambient light from the edges from reaching the sensors? Or will reading measurements in a dark room take care of the problem?
Number two, around the 20 IRE level i get my colors going crazy on all of my displays i've tested. Is this actually because the colors are off in this area? Or is it just a limitation of my sensors accuracy?
Thanks again

Greetings

Likely sensor limitation. Readings below 20% usually are not trusted even on the more expensive gear like the CS200 at $11500 or the Photo Research stuff beyond that.

Light meters like light ... not absence of light.

Regards

Greetings

Likely sensor limitation. Readings below 20% usually are not trusted even on the more expensive gear like the CS200 at $11500 or the Photo Research stuff beyond that.

Light meters like light ... not absence of light.

Regards
Ok, thanks. That is what i figured, results seemed to consistent across all displays to only be the display's problem.

Ok, i'm getting a bit annoyed here.
I followed the advice and tapped the sensor to a free tripod i had. The problem is that, for some reason, the sensor is not picking up enough red.
I can place my own 50 IRE swatch in the sensor's view, and it will tell me there is too much green and blue and not enough red. I know this to not be true as my eyes see a very obvious red tinge to the swatch, yet it keeps telling me to add more red...
I know the sensor works. I've perfectly calibrated 4 monitors with it, all have came out with near perfect results (best that could be achieved with them). But it does not like the projector.
Any ideas?

Just curious, are you calibrating a display with controls or an external VP that lets you tweak the greyscale at every IRE? If you're just using standard white balance gains and cuts, you should be using the gains on a 80 or 90 IRE window and the cuts on a 30 IRE window - the 50 IRE window should just be used for taking your 0-100 IRE readings after you've made adjustments.

As to why the readings are indicating that you need to add more red when the window is clearly too red, I'm not sure what's causing that to happen. I'd reset all the white balance controls to their default settings and give things a try with the 30/80 IRE windows and cuts/gains (respectively) and see if you get the same problem.

Just curious, are you calibrating a display with controls or an external VP that lets you tweak the greyscale at every IRE? If you're just using standard white balance gains and cuts, you should be using the gains on a 80 or 90 IRE window and the cuts on a 30 IRE window - the 50 IRE window should just be used for taking your 0-100 IRE readings after you've made adjustments.

As to why the readings are indicating that you need to add more red when the window is clearly too red, I'm not sure what's causing that to happen. I'd reset all the white balance controls to their default settings and give things a try with the 30/80 IRE windows and cuts/gains (respectively) and see if you get the same problem.
I wish i had a VP, but i can't afford one, so i'm just using the builtin controls on the projector. And without the service menu, which is kind of limiting (have a ph530 if you know the sm/fm combo).
As for the 80 IRE, i am attempting a calibration with it now, though, so far it still appears too red. I've even tried doing a real time reading and changing every option i have, to see if it will pickup on the very obvious red tinge. But so far no luck. I can calibrate the colors by eye... but then thats missing most of the point of using the sensor.

I've even tried doing a real time reading and changing every option i have, to see if it will pickup on the very obvious red tinge. But so far no luck.

Do you have HFCR set up to be looking for 6500K white? You can set it to any temp of white, so you need to make sure you tell it that you want 6500K.

Failing that, when you initially set up the i1 did you do it with a 100 IRE window and then adjust it (distance from screen, height, left/right rotation, up/down rotation) on the tripod until you got the max lumen reading from the screen (not pointing it at the projector)?

Once you've done this and adjusted brightness and contrast, then you can put up the 80 IRE window. At this point push the "play" button up top on the HFCR control bar to get it to start taking constant readings - this is when you adjust the R/G/B gains to get the R/G/B percentages to line up at as close to 100% each as you can. Then switch to the 30 IRE window, do the same for the R/G/B cuts, and then go back to the gains, back to the cuts, etc.

Sorry if you already understand all this, but your comment that I quoted up top made me think you might not be doing things quite right since you should always be taking real-time readings when adjusting the greyscale.

Do you have HFCR set up to be looking for 6500K white? You can set it to any temp of white, so you need to make sure you tell it that you want 6500K.

Failing that, when you initially set up the i1 did you do it with a 100 IRE window and then adjust it (distance from screen, height, left/right rotation, up/down rotation) on the tripod until you got the max lumen reading from the screen (not pointing it at the projector)?

Once you've done this and adjusted brightness and contrast, then you can put up the 80 IRE window. At this point push the "play" button up top on the HFCR control bar to get it to start taking constant readings - this is when you adjust the R/G/B gains to get the R/G/B percentages to line up at as close to 100% each as you can. Then switch to the 30 IRE window, do the same for the R/G/B cuts, and then go back to the gains, back to the cuts, etc.

Sorry if you already understand all this, but your comment that I quoted up top made me think you might not be doing things quite right since you should always be taking real-time readings when adjusting the greyscale.
It seems i was forgetting the first step, which was angling the sensor to get the most light output. After i did that the readings were much more accurate, and so i was able to calibrate the projector pretty well.
Thanks again for the help.

It seems i was forgetting the first step, which was angling the sensor to get the most light output. After i did that the readings were much more accurate, and so i was able to calibrate the projector pretty well.
Thanks again for the help.

Awesome, I'm glad you were able to get some good results - there's nothing more frustrating as a DIY'er who is learning than sitting down to calibrate a display and then hitting a brick wall.