Well my title is semi-misleading... of course i want to try and adjust the projector in a way that I dont need to use the keystone but without some miraculous mount i am not aware of i dont think it can be done.

long story, short... conference room currently uses a small, portable NEC projector that is ceiling mounted. I brought in a mitsubishi wl639u which looks much, much better but flips the lens from the left side to the right side. The way everything is mounted into the ceiling moving the pole is not an option. Is there a mount of some sort that will help me slide the projector over 6 inches, maybe back 3-4 as well??

If I cant find a mount like this is there something that will help me better understand how to adjust the keystone, "if the projector image is this shape than you want to try this and this..."

Greetings

YOu need lens shifting more than keystone. the image should be square with the wall even if offset from the screen by inches.

Keystone will not miraculously move the image so you have to tilt the projector I guess.

You need horizontal keystone I suppose that makes the left or right side bigger than the other side.

YOu should be able to figure this out just by observation. Should take about 30 secs to figure it out.

Regards

Unfortunately we didnt even think about lens shifting when choosing the projector (its not available on this model). The whole lens flipping from left to right on the projector never even occured to me. Oh well, you live and you learn...

I definetely have the projector tilted (not greatly) and have each keystone +/- 2-4 (i know; 2,22,40 it still rescales the pic and impacts PQ). Im still having problems though where as soon as i get one side of the pic level and square now all of the sudden the opposite side has a small slant to it.

Im heading back tonight to give it another shot so hopefully with another set of hands (i was alone last time) i will be able to get it a little bit closer

Greetings

The nasty thing about digital keystone is that it can turn a 1080p projector into a 720P one with one click in either direction. The loss in detail is real and things like moire patterns are added to the image as well because of the digital shifting of pixels.

The projector might be tilted up or down too ...

Overscan/zoom the image on the screen to hide obvious geometry imperfections on the frame so people can't see it. If quality performance is paramount ... then you have to remount the thing correctly. Some universal mounts have movement flexibility if the projector is not too large.

regards

So i found a mount that is the basis of what i am looking for/need...

http://www.vanptc.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=21&catid=10

an arm mount like this would let me move the 3 inches to the side and the 3 inches to the back so i would not need to use either H or V keystoning. The problem with this mount is....

1) it doesnt look like it has a threaded end i can put on the existing pole. Only has an option for mounting directly into a stud.
2) if there was a similar mount that would let me adjust the arm's length (not just the arm is 12 inches long)

you have an existing threaded pole ?

If yes, then just do the measurements and buy the correct piping at Home Depot.

while the new pipe well help me on the vertical adjustment i dont think it will do alot with the horizontal... im continuing to look for different variations of the mount linked above and am hoping i can find a way to attach that to the threaded pole.

Greetings

Monoprice also has projector mounts ...

regards

hey, michael... i cant thank you enough for all the help you've been today.

are there any calibration/test patterns you can recommend?

Greetings

you are welcome.

A overscan test pattern from DVE or AVIA are good as are grid patterns from these and similar discs for checking geometry. They have circles so you can see if things are funny pretty fast.

regards

You never said if the screen can be moved. Have you considered that option?

Another option could be to use a series of pipe fittings to elbow over the necessary distance. Use two 90 degree "elbows" and two short, straight, threaded "nipples" (don't start, Gregg), to compensate for the new lens orientation. The original down-rod pipe may have to be replaced with a shorter one. Since these new digital projectors are so small and light, this plan should still hold up with the cantilevered load. Much depends on how secure the ceiling connection point is. Any big box building supply store should have what you need in the plumbing section. The usual size of pipe used for this type of projector mounting is 1 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread). They usually have iron pipe cutting and threading equipment on site as well.

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"

Alan, if I recall correctly, one night we were out at CEDIA after an ISF session, and after some drinking on your part (as you know, I do not, so my power of recall in these situations is unsurpassed) I thought I heard mention of a brief career you had south of the border, in which your stage name was "Threaded Nipples".

Uggh, maybe not. You know how brutal long CEDIA days are.

Now you're on my list, too! By the way, to be completely precise, it was "Breaded Nibbles."