So when you play the game of Epson sending you a new unit and says it is the updated "non-defocus" model how do you know if it is new or not?

Did they start over with a new serial number??

Here's how the game worked for me. I phoned Epson last Friday to report the auto iris noise and the defocus problem and asked if the exchange projector would be one manufactured after these issues were solved. The tech said yes. On Monday I received a refurb that has newer firmware (1.02 instead of 1.01) and an equally noisy iris. I'll won't be able to test the focus until this week end. My projector's serial number is 1413. The refub is 1481, not much newer. I called Epson again and asked if the refurb had been sent back to the factory for retrofitting to fix the focus (supposedly by altering the airflow). He said the 6100s are being repaired in Indiana and that very few of the refurbs Epson sends out are returned as faulty. If this one is, he says, send it back.

I'll take one projector or the other to FedEx on Monday. I trust Epson because the Acculaser printer I bought from them broke under warranty last year and they sent a repair guy from Bellingham, WA, several hundred miles away, to fix it.

First pass comparison to my old Infocus SP7200 not a major upgrade for the 6100. i am still working on getting if fully calibrated. Shooting on to a 135 screen with Dalite acoustical transparent (gain 1.0) material. Sources are Panasonic 55 and Directv HD DVR. Stay tuned.

"For information’s sake: Many local movie houses only project at 8 to 10 ftL to save money on energy, and in a dark room it gives a good picture."


This is a popular misconception. Low brightness on the screen is usually attributed to a poor projectionist, not some scheme to lower energy costs. The minimum wage projectionists do not focus the bulb during replacement, and will let the bulb run until it is black or explodes.

However, you are very welcome to use 3d digital cinema as a comparison. The industry standard there is only 3 to 5 ftL due to all the filters the light must pass through.

The refurbished 6100 I had hoped would cure my defocus-issue blues turned out to go fuzzy too, so it's on its way back to Epson labeled DOA. That's on the advice of an Epson tech in Long Beach who checked the serial number of the refurb and confirmed that it doesn't have the focus fix. He promised to ship me a factory-new projector "as soon as one comes in."

Here are a couple of things I learned that may help anybody contemplating a similar exchange. First, as indicated above, Epson is again out of 6100s to exchange but expects them "this week." Second, it looks like the defocusing units and the good ones have quite different serial numbers. The faulty units I know about have four digits at the end, e.g. LGF8X4444L. The updated, correct-focusing unit that another AVS member received has six digits and a different letter sequence , e.g. LGLF666666L. (And thanks, Kilgore, for the info.) A piteously small sample, but it's all I've got.

Hi,
I bought this unit at the end of Jan 09'. So far I have about 160 hours on it. I use normal or the theater modes on a 144 inch wall with behr silver screen paint. Just checked that I have the 4 digit model.Wanted to know when(hours) you started seeing focus problems. So far this is holding up.As a matter of fact I am very pleased with the quality of the image!

Hi,
I bought this unit at the end of Jan 09'. So far I have about 160 hours on it. I use normal or the theater modes on a 144 inch wall with behr silver screen paint. Just checked that I have the 4 digit model.Wanted to know when(hours) you started seeing focus problems. So far this is holding up.As a matter of fact I am very pleased with the quality of the image!

It sounds like you have no problem then. I'm not suggesting that all the "4 digit" units have defocussing problems, just saying that mine does and that the serial number on one of the newly designed projectors I asked the owner about is quite different. So perhaps the longer serial number will help identify the units in which air circulation has been redirected to keep the lens cooler. Or maybe not. I've seen more than one post asking if anybody knows the serial number above which the units have more reliable focus but I have not seen an answer. There are clearly a great many 6100s with early serial numbers that work just fine.

Ive had my 6100 running since Jan and i am very pleased with the unit. my only issue is the time it takes for the unit to achieve its final focus. Do all the current 1080 PJ require a warm up period to reach final focus value?

Ive had my 6100 running since Jan and i am very pleased with the unit. my only issue is the time it takes for the unit to achieve its final focus. Do all the current 1080 PJ require a warm up period to reach final focus value?

My replacement 6100 requires no warmup period at all. It starts up in focus and stays in focus. The unit it replaced did have to warm up as yours does, and even then, I usually had to focus it again.

From my experience, Epson has fixed the defocussing issues with the 6100. You might consider sending yours in for replacement, if this issue bothers you.

So does Epson now have a stock of replacement 6100's in stock? Can I keep my old blub I wonder.....?

"For information’s sake: Many local movie houses only project at 8 to 10 ftL to save money on energy, and in a dark room it gives a good picture."


This is a popular misconception. Low brightness on the screen is usually attributed to a poor projectionist, not some scheme to lower energy costs. The minimum wage projectionists do not focus the bulb during replacement, and will let the bulb run until it is black or explodes.

However, you are very welcome to use 3d digital cinema as a comparison. The industry standard there is only 3 to 5 ftL due to all the filters the light must pass through.

Drumdude06,

Thank you for clarifying the valid poor projectionist point. A very fair point as I took this from others here on the board and other sites but obviously have no personal experience of working in a movie theater, I should not have written this as "Gospel", my apologies.

I beleive that in film the usual maximum ftL is a real 12 ftL through clear film. With 70mm film if air cooled to 30 degrees below zero on both sides of the film the ftL can be 16.

With the new digital 4K projectours they are aiming for 16 ftL. The i-Cinema standard, I think, is supposed to be 15 ftL.

In reality, see link below, this equates to real time 12 ftL which is still pretty good, at least from what I have seen with my own PJ, the Epson 6100 fully calibrated at this level in TB1. Fully calibrated in Dynamic but with green shift I have achieved around 22 ftL, but faint flickering is noticable as I believe film was only designed for a maximum 16 ftL. New technologies will/are breaking that barrier I believe, but few movie theaters have the equipment to take advantage of this new technology at present.

As regards poor projectionists, in years gone by I used to be a General Manager/Vice President for a fair sized corporation with 660+ employees at each operating location, for about 12 years. I am now "retired" from that job; my main assignment was a troubleshooter go into an operation improve moral, get rid of silly rules, up the revenue, increase sales, and have good working relationships with the union(s) and then move on to another operation after a year or so. From my prior experience in management most employees try to do the best job they can. Unfortunately some owners/managers, and in some cases unions, speak but do not "listen" to the line employees.

One item owners or managers should always ensure is that his/her primary product, operating equipment, or delivery method should be in "Top Notch" shape. The projectionist in this case is an employee, it is the manager/owners job to ensure that all standards are met, often employees are only doing what they think the owner/manager wants.

In addition, sadly a few managers/owners sometimes look the other way either because they are too lazy to do their job properly, or trying to improve the bottom line (possibly to impress corporate HQ or not lose their job) by cutting essential costs. So it might be in some, not all operations, costs are cut by not updating to a newer bulb; but as you wrote not by deliberately running in a lower brightness setting. You make a good point.

In our own local theater the ftL is definitely lower than 9 as I have "Natural" mode calibrated to about 10 ftL, measured by Lux meter (adjusted for screen gain), and our picture is far brighter.

I am planning on re-writing the check list when I do I will edit that part to reflect your valid opinion.

Your point about 3-D is fascinating, I am guessing that even at those low ftLs the actual picture does not look dim as maybe, and I am guessing again, there are 3 luminance sources. Could you explain the technology; and do you anticipate that we may see it on home PJs and if so when, and at what price point? Personally I have never seen a 3-D movie.

Thank you

http://www.dcineco.com/glossary.htm

I'm looking for a fixed screen. The cheapest I found is a 135" elite ez frame for about $650 shipped.
I got a 106" screen for under $200 Cdn (but I lived in the area and saved on shipping by picking up).

Far from a perfect screen but more than perfect for $200.

http://www.eastporters.com/splash.php

I've had my 6100 since January 1 of this year. It does go out of focus quite a bit. I initially thought it was because I mounted it on the celing just below where the family room would be and I have 3x kids under 10 years of age and thought it was due to their tireless jumping around.

Secondly.... and I've only noticed this for the past month (though it could have been there all along and I'm only now noticing it?) I'm starting to see some red coloured pixels that take up about an inch of the bottom of the picture (okay, my projector is mounted upside down from the ceiling so let's call it the top left) when i am watching full-screen (like HD cable). Obviously not noticelable when I'm watching a letterboxed video but very noticeable when watching full-frame TV.

Has anyone else noticed this AND at what point should I ask for a replacement?

A friend just purchased the 6100, I'll be helping install everything. We plan on doing a shelf mount, anyone thats done this already, suggestions welcome. How deep should we go 18"?

A friend just purchased the 6100, I'll be helping install everything. We plan on doing a shelf mount, anyone thats done this already, suggestions welcome. How deep should we go 18"?

I just put mine up with 2 simple shelf brackets I bought at a local hardware store. They had a 15 1/2" long leg and a 9" short leg. I lag bolted them to two studs that were 24" on center. I lagged them just due to the fact that the brackets came with 1/4" mounting holes. I made a shelf out of 1/2" MDF which was 26" wide and 24" deep. My mount is up near a sloped ceiling so I set the projector out further to clear the slope of the ceiling. If you have clearance, an 18" shelf should suffice.

Thanks, thats the info I needed

Well I have used this projector over the last two days I seem to have a problem. My previous projetor was an infocus 7200.

I am getting faint diagonal lines in areas on the projection where the display is faily uniform. Initially I thought it was my component connections however I have changed over to HDMI cables from monoprice and the problem is still there. This is a patteren that is fairly low frequency and displays just enough to being well upsetting.

I am going to call Epson this morning but I was wondering if anyone else has seen this.

My projector before the the IF 7200 was a Sharp LCD (SD resolution). Screen is 133 inch diagonal Dalite "Audio Vision".

The refurbished 6100 I had hoped would cure my defocus-issue blues turned out to go fuzzy too, so it's on its way back to Epson labeled DOA. That's on the advice of an Epson tech in Long Beach who checked the serial number of the refurb and confirmed that it doesn't have the focus fix. He promised to ship me a factory-new projector "as soon as one comes in."

Here are a couple of things I learned that may help anybody contemplating a similar exchange. First, as indicated above, Epson is again out of 6100s to exchange but expects them "this week." Second, it looks like the defocusing units and the good ones have quite different serial numbers. The faulty units I know about have four digits at the end, e.g. LGF8X4444L. The updated, correct-focusing unit that another AVS member received has six digits and a different letter sequence , e.g. LGLF666666L. (And thanks, Kilgore, for the info.) A piteously small sample, but it's all I've got.

I bought my 6100 at the end of Dec 2008 and have one with the 4-digit ending serial number. It has the defocusing issue but for now i just let it warm up fully (around 15 minutes) before everything comes into focus. I need to call Epson too but will do so when they have more in supply.

Do they still put a hold on your CC, ship out the replacement, you send the faulty one in and they remove the hold on the CC? Or do they expect to receive the faulty one before they ship out the replacement?

Thanks
LH

I bought my 6100 at the end of Dec 2008 and have one with the 4-digit ending serial number. It has the defocusing issue but for now i just let it warm up fully (around 15 minutes) before everything comes into focus. I need to call Epson too but will do so when they have more in supply.

Do they still put a hold on your CC, ship out the replacement, you send the faulty one in and they remove the hold on the CC? Or do they expect to receive the faulty one before they ship out the replacement?

Thanks
LH

The answer to both your questions is yes. With a credit card hold they ship immediately (if they have a replacement in stock). Without a credit card I'm pretty sure you must send your projector back first. I've sent you a windier answer in a PM.

Without a credit card, you must return your PJ first. That's what I had to do. No manuals, no remote, no cables. Just packed up the PJ with the Lens cap on and shipped it by Fed Ex Overnight using the Fed Ex account number they gave me. Since the 6100 was back ordered, it took 3 weeks for me to receive my replacement. The bright side was that the replacement had no defocus problem whatsoever.

Well I have used this projector over the last two days I seem to have a problem. My previous projetor was an infocus 7200.

I am getting faint diagonal lines in areas on the projection where the display is faily uniform. Initially I thought it was my component connections however I have changed over to HDMI cables from monoprice and the problem is still there. This is a patteren that is fairly low frequency and displays just enough to being well upsetting.

I am going to call Epson this morning but I was wondering if anyone else has seen this.

My projector before the the IF 7200 was a Sharp LCD (SD resolution). Screen is 133 inch diagonal Dalite "Audio Vision".


I bet you are actually seeing the screen material. I had to return an Elite Cinetension 2 acoustic screen because it was so obvious. Are you running this projector brighter than your last one? because that really brings out the material.

Nope IF 7200 was actually brighter. When I spoke with the technical support (level 3) se stated that the video processing board was likely the problem. I have returned it to the store and awaiting a new to arrive to go and get.

The saga of my attempt to get a replacement 6100 that doesn't defocus has ended happily. After first sending me a refurbished projector no better than my original, Epson responded to my second complaint two days ago by delivering a brand new unit of recent manufacture. It seems quieter than the first two units, has near-perfect convergence and focuses more sharply than I thought possible. Now, it does lose a bit of that razor focus after warm up, but it's far better than my earlier 6100s and the focus shift is nothing most viewers would even notice. I salute Epson for its great warranty and tech staff. They turned my grumbles into grins.

Well, I've finally decided to upgrade my TW700 to the TW3000 (same as 6100) and hope to have it in the next few days.

At exactly half the price of the Panny AE3000 it was a no brainer for me. I cannot believe the Panny is 2 x times better, plus I like the extra brightness offered by the Epson since I have a 150" screen in a dedicated theater.

Hope I'm going to be suitably impressed as an upgrade from the TW700. The TW700 was (is) a great projector btw, but I'd like to make the jump to 1080p now.

Received the TW3000 (aka 6100) on Saturday. First impressions are very positive. This is a beautiful machine, as only a projector enthusiast can appreciate. Calibration right out of the box using Theater Black 1 appears spot on to me. Whereas with all previous projectors (incl TW700) I felt the urge to calibrate immediately, this time not so.

The difference in pixel size betw 1280x720 vs 1920x1080 on my 150" screen is quite obvious. No need to defocus slightly as I had to do with the TW700 as you can simply not see the pixels. Btw I use a 4.85m throw ratio with that 150" screen - works well for me. My screen is a fixed frame Elite white screen (think CinemaWhite).

Quantum of Solace on blu-ray looks amazing, as does Wall-e. Even standard DVD upscaled via the PS3 look good.

For some reason my HTPC goes to a 4:3 aspect ratio when I set it to 1920x1080 so I've left it at 1280x720. Will investigate this later on.

As others have pointed out, this thing throws a bright image. This is very pleasing and apart from price, the other main reason my I went with the Epson.

No focus issues, but then I'm down at sea level and also have a newly shipped model from Epson, so probably has the problem fixed anyway.

So far I'm very happy with this upgrade that cost me half of what the Panny AE3000 would have cost!

I just cancelled my order with Projector People since it is on B/O and BestBuy has it on sale for a better price and in store pick-up. if you read BB website they say there is a 14 day return period but also a 15% restock on all projectors.

Well, I've finally decided to upgrade my TW700 to the TW3000 (same as 6100) and hope to have it in the next few days.

At exactly half the price of the Panny AE3000 it was a no brainer for me. I cannot believe the Panny is 2 x times better, plus I like the extra brightness offered by the Epson since I have a 150" screen in a dedicated theater.

Hope I'm going to be suitably impressed as an upgrade from the TW700. The TW700 was (is) a great projector btw, but I'd like to make the jump to 1080p now.
Hi Xander,

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on one of these Epson 6100 (TW 3000 back home) also, I'm in the UK at the moment but I'm going to purchase on my return to NZ. Where did you manage to find the best local deal etc?

Any advice appreciated.

I just cancelled my order with Projector People since it is on B/O and BestBuy has it on sale for a better price and in store pick-up. if you read BB website they say there is a 14 day return period but also a 15% restock on all projectors.

Only on computer projectors, this is a Home Theater projo. There is no restock fee and the return policy is 30 days.

Hi Calibre, purchased mine from Noel Leeming for a good price. You can check on sites like priceme.co.nz or pricespy.co.nz as well.

Cheers

Called Epson PrivateLine on Monday morning about defocus issue (5 minutes on the phone - tops). Tuesday received replacement projector. Unit 2 is solid! Hats off to Epson for a great product and an efficient/easy customer service experience.

does anyone have any good settings for using it as computer monitor? It hurts my eyes using the settings I have.

does anyone have any good settings for using it as computer monitor? It hurts my eyes using the settings I have.I had a problem where it would only show a 4x3 aspect ratio picture when I switch my HTPC to 1920x1080. Last night I downloaded and installed PowerStrip and selected one of the default 1920x1080 modes and it works perfectly now with 1:1 pixel mapping. Try PowerStrip.

Alternatively (if the text, etc is too small) just put your PC in 12080x720 since that works pretty well too, although without 1:1 pixel mapping of course.

Hi Xander,
I was very interested to hear that you can't see the pixels. We have the TW3000 and 2metre high screen i.e. very similar size to you and I am actually a little disappointed that I can see the pixels very clearly from 3ft. Going as we did from a 720p to a 1080p projector I expected the pixels to be miniscule but sitting at about 12ft. back I do indeed get a screen-door effect. It is very easy to live with mind you and in all other ways we love this PJ it is just that I didn't expect ANY screen-door.
You might be interested to look back a couple of pages at another post I made on critical focussing. Perhaps my efforts have been a little too effective.

Hi vur,

I guess with a digital projector - especially LCD - you'll always see pixels, especially from 3ft :) From normal viewing distance it should really not be an issue though. I'll look back at your focusing post...

Just heard that EPSON, due to their projector experience and to keep up with INFOCUS are to change their name to OUTOFFOCUS.
sorry couldn´t resist that.:p

I bought my 6100 at the end of Dec 2008 and have one with the 4-digit ending serial number. It has the defocusing issue but for now i just let it warm up fully (around 15 minutes) before everything comes into focus. I need to call Epson too but will do so when they have more in supply.

Do they still put a hold on your CC, ship out the replacement, you send the faulty one in and they remove the hold on the CC? Or do they expect to receive the faulty one before they ship out the replacement?

Thanks
LH

Unfortunately, my TW-3000 breaks this rule as it has a 6 digit serial number and has drifting focus requiring refocus every 30 - 60 minutes. Epson is replacing the unit, so it will be interesting to see what happens.

If you REALLY want to enhance the screen door effect, inspect the pixels by magnifying glass. You will probably see that the horizontal borders of the pixels are more distinct than the verticals. Very tiny amounts of re-focus can make both borders similar. The overall "snap" of the pic will improve. I'm not sure why the horizontal dominates -- they look a little thicker on 2 projectors we have had, and maybe we favour hz because that is the way our eyes are normally.

Remember though--- just because you are paranoid does not mean they are not out to get you!

Everyone must be enjoying their 6100 as much as me! Every time you fire this thing up you cant help but get a slight smile on your face. I've had zero issues in just over six months although I'd like to find a good mount- not cheap, not high end- just a good bang for the buck mount.

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo249/mmeister5/002.jpg

Didn't have a tripod handy so picture was handheld- slight blur... Screen is Behr Silverscreen paint.

I'd like to find a good mount- not cheap, not high end- just a good bang for the buck mount.


Have you tried Monoprice? I got a mount from them for my VW40 that is well built and plenty sturdy for I think $40.

... although I'd like to find a good mount- not cheap, not high end- just a good bang for the buck mount.

I'm using my 6100 with this mount (http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector_Ceiling_Mount_PMS_Series_p/pms.htm). It's kind of hard to position it just the way you want, but once you have it you don't need to touch it. Been using the mount for the past 3 months with no issues. And it's cheap.

LH

Everyone must be enjoying their 6100 as much as me! Every time you fire this thing up you cant help but get a slight smile on your face. I've had zero issues in just over six months although I'd like to find a good mount- not cheap, not high end- just a good bang for the buck mount.

Yes, loving my 6100, and loving the zero-issue factor!

This mount was included in a bundle when I bought my 6100 (so it's probably available inexpensively). It was fairly easy to install and very adjustable:

OmniMount.Com 3N1-PJT
http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=6b734674-457c-453f-937e-9b615cc30505&CurrentId=7.2.1

I'm using my 6100 with this mount (http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector_Ceiling_Mount_PMS_Series_p/pms.htm). It's kind of hard to position it just the way you want, but once you have it you don't need to touch it. Been using the mount for the past 3 months with no issues. And it's cheap.

LH

That's the same one I have and I cant seem to get it level, loosen just a hair too much and it flops over. When I get it to the point where it does look level it seems to lean to a side ever slightly enough to bug me:mad:


Yes, loving my 6100, and loving the zero-issue factor!

This mount was included in a bundle when I bought my 6100 (so it's probably available inexpensively). It was fairly easy to install and very adjustable:

OmniMount.Com 3N1-PJT
http://www.omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=6b734674-457c-453f-937e-9b615cc30505&CurrentId=7.2.1

Did this one come with an extension? At the ends of the four legs, are those adjustment knobs?

Did this one come with an extension?

Sort of. It came with an extension adapter that lets you extend it to any length you need, with a pipe. I didn't need to extend mine at all; it's nice tucked up close to the ceiling.

At the ends of the four legs, are those adjustment knobs?

No, those are just covers for the hardware. The big round nut in the center loosens, you get the pj level, and then tighten. It's really easy to get it level, and it seems to stay in place.

My question to all the 6100 owners... how is this pj with motion blur i like to watch football and want to know how this pj handles fast motion....that is my main concern.. will the 6100 work or do i need to pay more for the 6500.

My question to all the 6100 owners... how is this pj with motion blur i like to watch football and want to know how this pj handles fast motion....that is my main concern.. will the 6100 work or do i need to pay more for the 6500.

Well anybody.... they have a good deal going right now on the 6100...$100 back plus free lamp... if i have to wait three more months for the 6500 to come down i guess i will , but if the 6100 will handle motion blur it looks like a good pj for the money... watching tv on a 35" rca right now so ready to jump on this deal....

Thanks

Well anybody.... they have a good deal going right now on the 6100...$100 back plus free lamp... if i have to wait three more months for the 6500 to come down i guess i will , but if the 6100 will handle motion blur it looks like a good pj for the money... watching tv on a 35" rca right now so ready to jump on this deal....

Thanks

Nice deal! I bought mine less than a month ago... oh well :p

My question to all the 6100 owners... how is this pj with motion blur i like to watch football and want to know how this pj handles fast motion....that is my main concern.. will the 6100 work or do i need to pay more for the 6500.

I have not seen any problems with motion blur. The Super Bowl looked great in HD at 120"

I have not seen any problems with motion blur. The Super Bowl looked great in HD at 120"

mmeister, thank you for your info on this pj... thinking about pulling the trigger on this soon.... looks like a good deal for the 6100... 120" screen sounds good , i think i will have to go a little smaller with my screen.

I have one question, the blacks bars are really black? or is grey?

Anyone have screenshots of the nba finals in hd screen size around 120 inch?

I have one question, the blacks bars are really black? or is grey?
I'm using a basic white 110" screen and the blacks are as black as anything I've seen on a plasma or LCD using all of the standard settings. Even the high powered Livingroom setting provides a solid black.

Anyone have screenshots of the nba finals in hd screen size around 120 inch?


Don't have screenshots of it, but it looked as nice at 120" on the 6100 as it did on my 42" LCD Toshiba. Anyone on the fence just go ahead and buy. Every one of my friends that have seen this thing fired up is in awe. It just looks good at everything you throw at it and the price is right. 1k more might get you a little better picture but this is a great bag for the buck.

Does anyone have the link for the current 6100 rebate in Canada? I can't seem to find it on Epson's website.

Where in Canada are u buying the 6100?

I'm buying mine in Toronto / Hamilton area next week.

Where in Canada are u buying the 6100?

A local shop in Whitby (east of Toronto).

Anyone have the link for the rebate?

A local shop in Whitby (east of Toronto).

Anyone have the link for the rebate?

This one?

http://www.projectorpeople.com/SLIS/downloads/rebates/Epson/EPSHC6100_100_Lamp_073109.pdf

or this

http://epson.ca/c2c_cmc_upload/pdf/1080Home300LampENGEP808C267150609.pdf

That one is for the US only. I believe there is a Canadian one on Epson.ca

The only Canadian rebates are the 1080/UB one I linked


**EDIT**

http://www.hd.ca/epsonprojectors/powerlite6100.php

Looks like it may be in the box? Might have to call epson Canada.

Learned a lot reading the helpful posts from the great people in these forums. Our conference room BenQ made some noise, then some smells, and then...its light went out like ET when he was sick.

The replacement projector will be the 6100, but I have some challenges I hope you can help me with.

1.) The projector will be run from the Boss's workstation. The conference room is also his office. What is the best way to hook up the projector to this PC? It is annoying to him to have to change the resolution on his computer in order for the projector image to be proportioned properly.

2.) With all of the problems I've read about, I don't want to buy this from the cheapest place I can find. I would rather buy it from a retailer that will take care of getting us a replacement if there is a problem. The thought of having to wait weeks to get a replacement would make me look very bad in the eyes of the folks here. Best place to purchase the 6100?

3.) We have a pipe running from where the projector will be mounted in the ceiling (best ceiling mount for this?) to an area on one side of the room. This tube was put in when the office was built so we could run the appropriate cables. What cables do you suggest we run? HDMI, DVI, ...? The idea was that we would eventually have an affordable receiver and any other equipment in order to run the AV we would get. The room is wired with speaker wires in the walls as well (no speakers yet).

4.) I need this projector to work as cleanly as possible for conference room presentations hooked up to the pc. I also would like to think ahead and make the appropriate connections when it is easiest to do so in order to have a nice little makeshift theater for our company. If you have any suggests as to how to best pull this 'double-duty' project off, I'm all ears!

A local shop in Whitby (east of Toronto).

Anyone have the link for the rebate?
I live in Hamilton area but bought my 6100 this week from Quebec Acoustic.
No PST or delivery charge, and 24 hour shipping, plus a really responsive person to answer questions etc

I live in Hamilton area but bought my 6100 this week from Quebec Acoustic.
No PST or delivery charge, and 24 hour shipping, plus a really responsive person to answer questions etc
No grey market products either. It came with English and French manuals

I need to make 3 posts so I can give you the URL for the rebate

OK!
Hi:
Here's the link for the rebate you're looking for
http://www.quebecacoustic.com/UserFiles/File/Epson6100-July09.pdf

Love Mine, Black Blacks, no motion blur

... no motion blur

I beg to differ. I guess it all depends on how big your screen is. I have a 110" diagonal screen and there's definite blurring at that size. I'm by no means knocking this projector. I've had mines since Jan 09 and love it for performance/price.

LH

Just purchased the 6100 moments ago, so hopefully I'll get it by the end of the week. Reading this thread from start to finish is a daunting task! Will post my comments after everything is set up. Now to find a screen that can do it all pretty well that won't break the bank (ie $400 or less)...

I've had mine for 2 - 3 months now and never preceived blurring in any HD sports, HD television, WII games, or std DVD (no bluray yet) on a 110" flat white.

Where are you picking up the blur?

Made this purchase yesterday at the only National Electronic Big Box retailer left for a price $510 less than srp of $1999.00.
Checking their inventory,only 4 units were left in my region and no replenishment orders listed.
Looking at the latest Epson rebate form which clearly states no BB,along with a few selected others, purchases will be honored clearly something's going on here.
Maybe this unit is being discontinued or Epson and their blackballed non-rebate allowable retailers got into a pi--ing contest over something.
No inventory reorders?
Unadvertised blowout price?(Just saw the on sale price this a.m.on their website)
Haven't found any internet mention of this so who knows?
Price I paid has made me happy since I'm replacing a 7 year old Epson 500 with the dreaded blue smear for 25% of what I paid for the original one.
Seemed like a great deal.

OK!
Hi:
Here's the link for the rebate you're looking for
http://www.quebecacoustic.com/UserFiles/File/Epson6100-July09.pdf

SWEET! Thanks a lot!

i've had mine since february. No focus issues and no blur issues. This is one toy of mine that the wife was actually happy i purchased.
Turn on Yo Gabba Gabba and my 2 year old is in a trance for the next half hour

Maybe this unit is being discontinued or Epson and their blackballed non-rebate allowable retailers got into a pi--ing contest over something.
The reason for Epson's exception with the "remaining big-box electronics retailer" is that that store completely stopped using mail-in rebates a couple of years ago, so the great price you got is basically already a post-rebate price.

That store should be applauded repeatedly for getting away from the mail-in-rebate putridity.

At least the Epson rebates are big enough to make all of the trouble messing with envelopes and stamps and cr** worthwhile.

So I got my replacement 6100 yesterday however there was no return information whatsoever in the box. No instructions/no address/ just the packaging slip saying send this back when you return the projector. Anyone have the address of where they are shipping their defective units? Also are people reregistering the replacement projector? Finally does anyone else not think its bull crap we have to pay for return shipping on our dime?

So I got my replacement 6100 yesterday however there was no return information whatsoever in the box. No instructions/no address/ just the packaging slip saying send this back when you return the projector. Anyone have the address of where they are shipping their defective units? Also are people reregistering the replacement projector? Finally does anyone else not think its bull crap we have to pay for return shipping on our dime?

Contact Epson. You should have received a pre-paid Fed Ex label to go on the return box. Either that or a Fed Ex account number for Epson.

Hi, I just bought the 6100, and quickly set it up to test it out. (I literally only spent 4-5 minutes...). I have two quick questions:

a) I use TheaterBlack1 mode (as some reviewers recommend this). It's a relatively large picture projected, from about 18 feet. Did not measure, but maybe 140-150" diagonal? Picture seems a bit washed out to me, but I did not play with the brightness yet though. Just wondering - several reviews are mentioning low and full power mode. I cannot for the life of me find out how to see what it's on, and how to switch it. The manual does not mention it either...

b) Looking at the lens projecting the picture, I get the feeling it is a little fogged up? Maybe this is just how it looks, but just curious.

EDIT: haha, I overestimated the projected surface. It's 118" diagonal (man, I though that would be small.....it's actually pretty big!!). PS2: I'm building a screen, so far onlyprojectting on white wall, so I think less than 1.0 gain at this point...
Thanks!

I bought my 6100 way back in 12/23/2008. So I have one of the early manufactured ones. I have had the de-focus issue but i've been ok so far to just wait a few minutes for it to fully warm up before watching a movie.

Today i finally decided to call Epson and tell them about the issue and to send me a replacement. I used the card that came with the projector. I didn't have to wait too long to explain the issue and they told me they will ship the replacement soon. They did mention they have some in stock. So, i will report back (if anyone cares and for those that still have one of the early ones) on results.

Yeah I contacted Epson yesterday and they are sending out a prepaid label...must of not been in the box. I noticed the replacement has the green panel down a pixel and the blue panel right a pixel however can't really notice far away. The replacement I got was definitely a refurbished one however it did come with manuals/remote.

Hi, I just bought the 6100, and quickly set it up to test it out. (I literally only spent 4-5 minutes...). I have two quick questions:

a) I use TheaterBlack1 mode (as some reviewers recommend this). It's a relatively large picture projected, from about 18 feet. Did not measure, but maybe 140-150" diagonal? Picture seems a bit washed out to me, but I did not play with the brightness yet though. Just wondering - several reviews are mentioning low and full power mode. I cannot for the life of me find out how to see what it's on, and how to switch it. The manual does not mention it either...

b) Looking at the lens projecting the picture, I get the feeling it is a little fogged up? Maybe this is just how it looks, but just curious.

EDIT: haha, I overestimated the projected surface. It's 118" diagonal (man, I though that would be small.....it's actually pretty big!!). PS2: I'm building a screen, so far onlyprojectting on white wall, so I think less than 1.0 gain at this point...
Thanks!

I didn't get any feedback, but for anyone else that may wonder;

a) There is a "Brightness Control" setting in the "Image" menu-screen that really means lamp mode (full or low power).

b) Just guessing here, but after restarting a couple of times, I think the "fogginess" is really just the reflection in the lens of the actual picture area that is being projected, out of focus (since focus obviously need to be where the image lands on the screen). I need to get some dust specs off the lens though..

I used Art's calibration settings (projectorreviews) and found that it looks good. I will probably run a calibration disc once the screen is set up - but between that and switching to high lamp power (default is low for some stupid reason), the picture looks really nice, even on my dull wall.

One thing I could not figure out of the "calibration" section in that review is whether I should touch the color temperature setting. He mentions that the mode comes close to 6500K and that this is ideal, but the actual setting in the menu states 7500. (However, maybe it should be left and the adjustments made will make it 6500????)

An annoying thing to me is that I fear dust on the lens, but putting the cap on is hard without accidentally defocusing/rezooming the picture...


Looks good to me though.

I have been over at the 6500 site for some time now, more people seem to be calibrating over there, learning calibration techniques from primarily "Stereomandan". His system really does produce great looking pictures, but is a little complicated to understand. Today "Stereodanman" recommended people use this check list with his system, see here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710

I created a check list so that I would not forget anything. I posted it on the 6500 forum and it seems to be well received. I thought some people here might like it, as it applies primarily to my PJ the Epson 6100, and this is the Epson 6100 forum so here it is:


____________________________________________________________ ___



Check List

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

___________________________

Check List
________________________________________

A note to the general public from smallpooldad:

Firstly I am a rank amateur.

I wrote this check list for myself (it is not a complete "How to Guide” as it is for people who have some knowledge of calibrating) so that I do not miss anything, which I normally do. It utilizes stereomandan's 75% Saturation method.

I believe it will be useful to others. Some years ago I use to fly planes and one of the most important things you can do as a pilot is to thoroughly go through your check list no matter how many flying hours you have. Many accidents and emergencies could have been avoided if everyone did this. This list I hope will avoid calibration mishaps and the need to spend another hour or two calibrating. As I will not be calibrating but once a month it will make sure I do not forget anything.

I had originally asked "stereomandan" to review this "Check List" to ensure accuracy, which he kindly did, as I am by no means a professional calibrator, although I am a fairly good check lister. Since then he has created his own:

“Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB)”

Here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710


_______________________________________________________

Here it is:

CALIBRATION/REMINDER CHECK LIST SPECIFICALLY FOR THE EPSON 6100 AND FOR PERSONS WHO HAVE CALIBRATED BEFORE - NOT FIRST TIMERS (It may have some use for the 1080/1080UB/6500UB)


Firstly please read the WHOLE checklist over before calibrating, more times if you have to understand it.


It is recommended that one starts to calibrate after 200 hours of initial use or replacement bulb use, as the PJ takes time to settle down and does not change as quickly after that. Of course you can do it earlier but be aware that the it might go out of calibration, albeit slightly, after say every 20 hours or so.


Ideally it is recommended that calibrating should be done once week. I do it once every two months.


Re-read the Following And Try And Understand Again:

1. “GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES” here (A great guide but different in methodology from Stereoman's):

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

2. The HCFR Software’s Help Section
3. Stereomandan” Great 75% Saturation Guide on this page:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134710

And excellent posts by Bill Mitchell and Tom Huffman, to name but a few, on “avsforums.com” especially calibration forums.

Required:

1. A Color Meter (example Eye-One LT)
2. HCFR Software for installation see “GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES” here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

3. Tripod
4. A computer
5. Darkened room
6. No reflections from furniture (if possible) onto screen. No shiny objects near screen.
7. AVCHD Software Disk available here to burn (get 709 version):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

8. Download here “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” spreadsheet from post #62:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1111066

Note: This spreadsheet is often updated and being improved upon to make it easier to use so double-check you have the latest version.

9. Perhaps a small penlight to read check list.


Turn Off on PJ:

1. Auto Iris for calibration – (on or off after calibration is done - your choice. Personally I prefer off as it does affect calibration and has a slight noise to it)
2. 2-2 Pulldown. This can be left on.
3. FI if you have it
4. Any Contrast, Sharpness, or Motion Enhancers (I leave these off all the time)
5. Superwhite (up to you, normally off/on if you have a PS3's on)
6. HDMI Extended Range (setting depends on Blu-Ray player setting for blacker than black (Samsung BDP-2550 does not support it I believe) and whiter than white setting/on if you have a PS3's on)


Turn off on Blu-ray player:


1. 24 fps (This can be left on some but not all Blu-ray players - Samsung BDP-2550 should be off or AVCHD disk will not work in the menus)
2. Any Contrast, Sharpness, or Motion Enhancers

HCFR:

1. Make sure “Preferences menu is set to 709” and meter is correct to your type
2. Under "Advanced" "Preferences" "General" un-check box that says “Use measured values (when available)”
3. Under "Advanced" "Preferences" "References" un-check box that says "“Display with Black Compensation”, use only "Display Gamma"
4. Readings in continuous mode

Initial Pre-Adjustment Settings on PJ:


1. Mode: Natural (of course you could use "Theater Black 1 or 2" , but the color is not supposed to be as natural according to the Epson manual
2. Lamp mode – brightness, to low or high (Your choice. Low lamp should mean that your lamp dims more slowly, once too dim for viewing you can turn it back to high until it dims again. Then get a new bulb)


VERY IMPORTANT NOTE - do not change lamp mode to high or low depending on which mode you chose before or during calibration otherwise it will take 20 minutes to an hour for it to settle back down so you can perform a calibration properly, or your readings will be wrong


3. Temperature to 6500k as a start (Raise or lower if necessary)
4. Set Gamma 2.2 (Raise or lower if necessary). Also can be adjust later with customized for fine tuning only. You aim is to achieve 2.22 calibrated in the 20 and above IRE areas and 2.15 at 10 IRE (You can adjust the 10 IRE later no need to do it now)
5. Brightness and contrast to “0 to -3” (lower initial contrast figures may help with Gamma control - when doing visual set up below. See “Personal Note below under Calibration and Setting Grayscale section, Item 2).
6. Set Skin Tone and Tint to 0 (This reduces green and ups red giving a more natural balance to faces so they do not always look suntanned). Also Epsons tend to be too green.
7. Color Saturation anywhere from “0”, but -1 to -10 is possible (higher numbers such as zero, or higher, may help with Gamma control in the Epson 6100)
8. RGB set all to “0”
9. RGBCMY set all to “0”


Set Tripod:

Note: 3” to 4” distance from screen will give you the most accurate ftL reading if you multiply it by 1.09 with the Eye-One LT (a 10.5 ftl reading times 1.09 = a true reading of 11.4. I checked this against a lux meter.

A move out to 12” to 24” will help possibly when reading a very low ftL and might give more balanced readings (see next note), I use 24".

HCFR Note: In the help section of HCFR they recommend placing the meter anywhere from 7 1/2" to 39" from screen.

To get a good contrast reading they recommend the meter pointed at the lens with a good "diffuser" presumably not the one that came with most inexpensive meters (less than $1000). I do not take this reading as I have no good diffuser

2. After calibrating meter (normally on black plastic covered with black velvet) put meter on tripod aimed at screen, with a 10% 100 IRE Grayscale Window
3. Start readings in continuous mode
4. Adjust tripod until meter gives highest ftL in HCFR software. Be careful the brightest part of your screen may not be dead center if you ceiling or floor mount, or if table mounted above or below dead center


Personal note before starting:

What follows is an opinion, and I could be wrong, I would like to be wrong, but from what I have experienced sadly it seems not to be the case.

For Epson 6100 only, maybe others, lowering the contrast so that the ftL reading is lower than 11 or 10.09 may help to get better Gamma control and Gamma consistency - your mileage may vary.

Note this is different than the recommended 12 ftl to 16 ftl in the “Grayscale for Dummies” guide, but he has a much more expensive professional CRT projector, it seems that amateur home projectors cannot achieve an optimum Gamma/Calibration/Saturation/Luminance if the ftL is over 11.0 and possibly lower than that. So lower your contrast if you are fighting a stable Gamma balance.

In other words if you want bright either get a very expensive PJ ($25k to $350k) to calibrate properly, or use another higher lumen mode such as Dynamic and calibrate roughly to a 2.3 to 2.5 Gamma and 6500k to 7500k temperature to get a nice picture, but not fully calibrated.

Trust me I have tried, many hours worth, and you cannot turn coal into diamonds, although I thought I could, making a fool of myself. If you did think you got the Epson 6100 perfectly calibrated at 16 ftL, including saturation and luminance, I would like to get what your smoking because it possibly is not cigarettes

I was hoping to amaze the avsfum world with my brilliantly done perfectly calibrated 16 ftL Epson calibration. As far as I can see with present low end, under $25k PJ technology, this cannot be done. Gamma and other things go "To Hell in Basket". So, oh the shame, I fell flat on my stupid calibrating face publically.

My wife a very smart and sensible women once told me "You know why everyone buys Labrador dogs" because they are easy to look after. Not me I got myself two "Komondors", picture here:

http://woodwood.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/komondor_dog.jpg

And spent many hours when I had spare time, for years, trying to keep their coats clean, in-between working 12 to sometimes 15 hours a day without a day off for months. So learn from my foolish pursuit, it is not worth trying to get a perfect calibration in 16 ftL lumens. The dogs are good for arm muscles though

But it says 2000 lumens, that is what I initially thought, yeah in bright un-calibrated mode, please note the Epson 6100 and 6500UB are remarkable in that in best modes and calibrated (Theater Black and Natural) they can achieve 305+ lumens, older Epsons like the 1080 cannot. Stereomandan’s ftL is 4.92 with his 1080UB and he is happy

For those of you who claim 16 ftL properly calibrated please post your HCFR file, as we would like to know how, and of course what brand you are smoking

For information’s sake: Many local movie houses only project at 8 to 10 ftL to save money on energy, and in a dark room it gives a good picture. THX standard is a recommended 16ftL that is why there are only 142 Certified THX Movie Houses in the US, see here (and none in my state):

http://www.thx.com/cinema/search/index.html

16 ftl is not 60% brighter than 10 ftl, it is visually maybe only 8% to 10% brighter, but it does have more punch visually. Nobody so far has been able to actually verify this scientifically


Calibration and Setting Grayscale:


1. Let PJ, Blu-ray player, computer with color meter attached (some meters are sensitive to ambient temperature and need time to adjust) warm up for at least 20 minutes by running a movie in the above mode. The Eye-One, from my experience, definetely has to warm up for at least 20 minutes
2. Do a standard visual brightness, contrast, color saturation, and tint adjustment using the AVCHD basic test.


Note: You can turn down the contrast to say -1,-3, etc, for a better Gamma balance and then visually adjust the brightness, color and tint with the disk, but leave the contrast visual adjustment out, or alternatively get it "In the ballpark" with AVCHD visual test and then turn it down .

Note: My personal method is to move the contrast down so that it reads below 10.5 ftl then adjust Brightness visually using the disk. If it is too dark (below 10.5) after doing this I move Contrast up and do Brightness with visual disk method again, repeating until it is in the ballpark of 10.5. Of course if you do the visual test and you never go over 10.5 then this does not need to be done and should not be done to raise the ftL artificially.



3. This section uses mainly 10% windows on grayscale section of AVCHD disk, it goes from 0 IRE to 100 IRE in increments of 10, so 11 readings
4. Then run a grayscale test to check on Gamma and Temperature if off a lot, adjust as necessary with main Gamma control, not customized unless you have to.
5. Then re-run a grayscale test to check again on Gamma and Temperature adjustment, adjust if necessary (minor custom adjustments to Gamma can be done later)

Note: Try and get the Gamma setting in the menu to at least 2.1 or preferably higher, for a an actual 2.22, as using 2.0 it is near impossible to make adjustments in a 2.0 setting, with the Epson 6100, with the Custom Gamma Menu later on when you do this. The higher your menu Gamma the easier it it is to adjust the Custom Menu numbers (smaller variations). To get a higher Gamma setting reduce contrast but it will affect ftL output, so a compromise is in order. My PJ is very close in to the screen, I set my contrast initially to 10.45 ftL, this gives a calibrated 9.396 ftL, this in turn on a screen with a gain of 1.24 gives a real reading of 10.45, measured with a Lux meter, and adjusted for gain.

6. Then measure grayscale Y reading of a 10% window at 100 IRE from the grayscale menu. Write it down as “100 IRE Y Reading”

“Luminance Chart” “Gray Scale Track” should be as follows:

An easier way: You can also use the spreadsheet known as “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” in the calibration aid tab; once you understand it, listed above under "Required". Do it as follows:

a. Enter the measure of the "Y" of a 100 IRE 10% Grayscale window into page 1 of the spreadsheet known as “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” on the "Calibration Aid" page, and enter your target Gamma, normally 2.22.

b. Then run each IRE window of the 10% Grayscale window to check your "Y".

c. Check it against the figures in column C14 through C24. If close your Gamma is roughly in line. If not then adjust Gamma and/or Contrast again

Or you can calculate it manually if you do not have "Excel" as follows:

% of "Y" of a 100 IRE 10% Window

0 IRE Window 0.00%
10 IRE Window 0.60%
20 IRE Window 2.81%
30 IRE Window 6.91%
40 IRE Window 13.08%
50 IRE Window 21.46%
60 IRE Window 32.17%
70 IRE Window 45.30%
80 IRE Window 60.93%
90 IRE Window 79.14%
100 IRE Window 100.00%

Note: At this stage some people like to adjust their “Brightness Control” by adjusting it to .0065 x "Y" of a 100 IRE 10% Grayscale window (The "GrayScale for Dummies" method), you could do this but stereoman feels it is unnecessary if you did a good visual adjustment with the AVCHD disk.

7. Then adjust primaries (red-green-blue colors) to 100% using 30/80 IRE Grayscale windows adjusting RGB controls gain first in the 80 IRE window and offset in the 30 IRE window going back and forth in the windows until both stay close to or at 100%. Then in the 100 IRE grayscale window x should read 0.3127 and y should read 0.329 (D65)

____________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________ ________________

ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT NUMBER IN ANY CALIBRATION TO ACHIEVE IS: (D65) x should read 0.3127 and y should read 0.329 at 100 IRE in 10% GrayScale Window

But not always possible with some PJs they run out of Red at the end.

Note this taken from "GrayScale for Dummies":

"The only solution if you run out of red in at 90/100 IRE is to turn down your contrast. While displaying the 100 IRE pattern (see Part 4: Setting White Level) take continuous measurements and keep lowering the contrast until the x value (red) reads 0.313 or stops dropping. This will be the highest you can run your contrast and maintain a correct amount of red output in relation to green and blue.

If you have to reduce the contrast such that you're not longer within the target ftL light range for your type of display, you have a decision to make: Do you keep higher light output at the expense of having an incorrect upper IRE range? Or do you fix the upper IRE range at the expense of contrast ratio and light output? As is always the case, calibration requires deciding which trade offs to make to get the best picture for your particular set up. Try both and make the call.

While this sort of problem can also occur with green or blue, it's far less likely to happen on digital displays. Regardless, if you find one of the colours dropping off significantly above 80 IRE, try reducing your contrast to see if the problem resolves itself."

____________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________ _________________

Note: If you lower contrast below an ftL reading of 8.0 ftl some meters may find this too dark to take low % IRE readings (possibly 10 IRE and 20 IRE) at these low light levels, or may take a while to actually take the reading. Also note some people, more experienced than I, state one cannot get a perfect calibration if your ftL is higher than 11

8. If you run out of red after re-measuring Grayscale or 100% grey is not reading 0.313(x=0.3127) then try lowering your contrast, but do not go too low, go as low as you can without compromising picture viewing (not too dim)

A helpful tip from a post by Bill Mitchell: "Reducing the gains and increasing the offsets, you would reduce the upward slope in the red/blue at the high end"

In other words if the upward slope for blue at the high end were too high you would reduce gains and try increasing the offsets, if too low the opposite would be true, you can do this for red separately.



Calibrating and Setting Primary and Secondary Brightness:

Firstly why bother to do this, it is true many websites never give these calculations, nor those for setting "Saturation and Hue". The reason to calibrate RGBCMY, this is where the "Punch" and "Visual Contrast" come from, even a 9 ftL picture calibrated this way will "Jump Off", the screen at you better than a 11ftL which did not have it's RGBCMY calibrated fully. But the settings are so individual to each person's PJ, room color, ambient light, etc.; giving out these numbers would be useless and potentially damaging to the quality of the picture of each person's PJ. This is what separates the picture quality from just good to extraordinary


1. Re-measure the "Y" of a 100 IRE 10% window from the grayscale menu. Write it down as the new “100 IRE Y Reading”

Note: When taking color readings, make sure you meter is actually taking a reading. You can see this by watching the big “Y” going up and down. Also a Color Bulls Eye Target the same color as you are reading will appear on the left side (You do not need to hit the bulls eye with this method). If no correct color Bulls Eye appears the readings have not started, wait. This could take up to a few minutes or so in dark colors, if your ftL is low

2. Then go to 100% Color Window, not full screen, moving to each color window as appropriate and set the brightness only to the following “Target Y” using the brightness control only in the RGBCMY menu on the Epson as follows:

(Easier method: You can also use the spreadsheet known as “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” in the calibration aid tab; once you understand it, listed above under "Required". Go to page one "Calibration Aid" use 100% Saturation Locations "x" numbers)

Or you can calculate it manually if you do not have "Excel" as follows:

Red .2126 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading
Green .7152 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading
Blue .0722 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading
Yellow .9280 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading
Cyan .7874 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading
Magenta .2848 x the new 100 IRE Y Reading



Calibrating and Setting Saturation and Hue:

Note: You have to have his “Excel” “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” spreadsheet to do this

2nd Note: Using the 75% Saturation Index Windows on the disk, repeat “Window” not full screen – see “stereomandan” reasoning as to why on these pages:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15593109#post15593109

1. Open “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” spreadsheet
2. On AVCHD disk open “Color Saturation Window” buried in the color area, not Grayscale area
3. Take readings in HCFR by going to “Measures”, then “Saturations”, then “All Colors”. Each individual color reading will take 5 readings, 0% saturation, 25% saturation, 50% saturation, 75% saturation, and 100% saturation.
4. Once completed then go to “View”, just below the screen boxes, open each colors “Saturation Scale” and copy into the “Gamut, Saturation, Brightness, dE Chart” spreadsheet. Copying and pasting information required by 2nd page “Input Data”. DOUBLE CHECK YOU PASTED THE CORRECT NUMBERS
5. Once completed move to 1st Page “Calibration Aid”, and input “Gamma Target”, normally 2.22 and then "Y" of 100 IRE Greyscale 10% window.
6. Then using RGBCMY controls on PJ menu, adjust as close as you can the SMALL x, y, and Y numbers to settings on 1st Page “Calibration Aid” using “75% Saturation Locations” numbers. You will need to open the 75% saturation window, not full screen, for each color, starting with Red's 75% saturation window , then Green's 75% saturation window, etc.


Note: The “Brightness Control" in the RGBCMY contol area, which controls "Y", will also have to be used again when you adjust the Hue and Saturation contols as the "Y" will shift, these adjustments are not easy and require many small minor adjustments to get them into balance, or if you prefer patience and time. In my personal experience it is best to set these as close as you can but not to move the sliders to far left or right, even if the numbers are good, as this creates "funky" looking colors.

A tip from stereomandan: When adjusting for hue, I look at the three color bars to the left of the cd/m2 and ftL readout. It makes hue adjustments go very fast. For example, if you are adjusting hue for red, you want the green and blue bar to be the same level. So if green is at 64% and blue is at 57%, then you need to adjust the hue slider bar onthe epson more towards blue. This works for all colors. If you are adjusting yellow, you want equal levels of green and red bars... If you are adjusting green, you want equal blue and red bars. If you are adjusting cyan you want equal green and blue bars... It doesn't matter what level the bars read, you just want them to be the same. The levels of the bars change overall when you adjust saturation.

Another tip from Stereomandan: "That got me thinking. I wonder if for each 75% saturation location, there is a specific %of Red, Green and Blue. I think that assumption is correct. That would make things very simple. You could just adjust saturation until the primary read the correct %. For example, if you have the red 75% saturation pattern up, in the Epson RGBCMY menu, you would just move the red saturation until the red % read 378% (see below), then you would adjust Hue unil the Green and Red bar both read 24%. This would be much easier than trying to remember which way to move around in the x,y color space.

I typed the 75% locations into HCFR and this is what it gave me for the percentages.

_______________Red Bar_____Green Bar______Blue Bar

Red Primary______ 378%_______24%_________24%
Green Primary______15%_______133%________15%
Blue Primary_______64%_________64%_______555%
Yellow Secondary__106%_______106%________17%
Cyan Secondary____24%_______120%________120%
Magenta Second___247%________41%________247%"

These calculations are now on the spreadsheet on page 1 "Calibration Aid" page, and look like this:

HCFR Specific (75% saturation locations)
% (Bars to the left of the cd/m2 and ftL reading)
Red Bar Green Bar Blue Bar
Red 378% 24% 24%
Green 15% 133% 15%
Blue 64% 64% 555%
Yellow 106% 106% 17%
Cyan 24% 120% 120%
Magenta 247% 41% 247%


7. Run “Measure grey scale, primary and secondary colors”
8. Then do minor adjustments to Gamma (see note below written by "stereomandan") on PJ menu using the “Custom Settings Graph”. To lower the Gamma move the point higher to raise it, move point lower (in Custom only).

Warning: DO NOT EVER move the far left or far right points of the “Custom Gamma”, or you will be sorry.

9. “stereomandan” prefers the Gamma at 10% to be in the 2.15 area, again read his posts at above address. If you have to adjust the 10% Gamma, or any other area, use the "Custom Gamma" in the Gamma menu using this method. Read the note below by "stereomandan".



The note:

"Yes, never, ever touch the first and last slider. I’m not sure why they even let us try it. The gamma calculation is based solely on the 100% grey window reading (which the last slider bar will impact), so if we change that, the gamma reading will change. You will be chasing your tail.

Here are some observations (this is all from memory). The second to last slider impacts more than one grey window. If you move that slider up and down, I think it impacts the 70%, 80%, and 90% grey windows. On the other hand the first few sliders are very precise. If you throw up a 10% grey window, only the second slider will impact that (I think). I think the same goes for the 20% grey window, which I think only the third slider impacts.

I use the “Adjust it from the graph” option in the custom gamma settings. I start at the 90% grey window and work my way down. So I pull up a 90% grey window, and look at my spreadsheet for what the cd/m2 value it should be. I have HCFR in continuous mode. I then simply move the slider down until I see the correct cd/m2 in HCFR. Then I move to 80% and find the slider that works for 80% grey (which I think is the same slider for the 90% grey adjustment) and adjust that, and so on. Keep in mind that as you move from slider to slider, when you have the correct slider the image will blink in the area that you are interested in. That’s when you know you have the correct slider to use. Sometimes more than one slider will impact the same window, so the 4th and 5th slider might both impact lets say the 50% grey window a little. This happens sometimes too.

This might not be different than your procedure, but it works for me.

Remember, make sure to set the first and last slider to zero, and make sure your main brightness and contrast are set correctly before you begin gamma adjustments. Your problem with red might be due to having contrast set a few clicks too high, but I could be wrong."


10. Then run “Measures”, “Saturations”, and “All Colors”, to view the “Saturation – luminance” and “Saturation Shift” screens. % screens for each color

11. Then run “Measures”, “Near Black Scale” and Near White Scale” measure to view the “Near Black Scale” and “Near White Scale” screens. Right click on the screen to pull up help to understand what you are viewing.

Note: The first "Near Black" screen is "0" IRE this is the one you will not be able to read, but is the correct screen for the first reading.

On the "Near White" screens you need to move forward to the 96 IRE screen, from the 90 IRE screen, to start taking readings.

Note: When you take your final complete set of readings the 80% to 100% saturation readings will show colors moving higher (brighter), this is unavoidable as setting is for 75%. See stereomandan’s reasoning for this here on these pages:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15593109#post15593109

And

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15544297#post15544297



Now you are done hopefully



DO NOT FORGET TO SAVE YOUR SETTINGS AND WRITE THEM DOWN - KEEPING THEM IN A SAFE PLACE. IN CASE YOU LOSE THEM



Important note: If you are having problems getting good results with this method, you might wish to reset the projector in the menu "Image" "Reset", then "Reset Memory", and then "Reset All", by doing this you will lose all your settings, and everything you entered except the lamp hours.

DO NOT "RESET LAMP HOURS”.

If you want to keep some settings write them down and re-enter after re-setting as you will lose them with the reset

If you want to view my own calibration notes and experience they are here at post #36:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16198023#post16198023

Finally as stated in the beginning I am but a mere amateur at this and wrote this check list for myself, as I always seem to forget something, and hopefully to help others so please direct your questions to stereomandan and others more knowledgeable than I.

Hope this helps.

P.S. If you see any errors, or have wording for a clearer way to describe it, please let me know. I cannot answer questions on methodology, direct those to more experienced persons

Make sure you have the latest updates, by checking the "Last edited by......." date and time.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by smallpooldad; Today at 02:39 PM..

very impressive! I did the quick and dirty "punch in some pretty good numbers" so fare, but will look at this once I have more hours on the lamp.

Thanks!

New 6100 owner here. I have the PJ shelf-mounted and the height forces me to use the vertical lens-shift downward to almost it's furthest extent. Doing this creates noticeable defocusing in the lower portion of the image. The middle and top part of the image remain sharp. Is this something that comes with using the full range of the lens-shift or do I have a defective unit?

Thanks.

New 6100 owner here. I have the PJ shelf-mounted and the height forces me to use the vertical lens-shift downward to almost it's furthest extent. Doing this creates noticeable defocusing in the lower portion of the image. The middle and top part of the image remain sharp. Is this something that comes with using the full range of the lens-shift or do I have a defective unit?

Thanks.

I use vertical lens shift (not at max, but the top of my screen is below the pj lens) without any problem. The only thing I can think of for you to check, is make sure that the pj is level, pointing straight forward toward the screen wall before you shift the image down. Sorry if this is obvious. Otherwise I would call Epson for help...

Just got my Epson 6100 and its Awesome!!!

I went to the Epson from the Panny200U and its Much Better!!

What calibration settings are you guys using??

Im just using the default for right now, but looking for some good settings..

For video games im using it on dynamic (BRIGHT!) and bluray im using the theater mode...

I dont have DVE-HD yet, but hoping to find some settings online for both Night and Day ...

Thanks,

Ghost

New 6100 owner here. I have the PJ shelf-mounted and the height forces me to use the vertical lens-shift downward to almost it's furthest extent. Doing this creates noticeable defocusing in the lower portion of the image. The middle and top part of the image remain sharp. Is this something that comes with using the full range of the lens-shift or do I have a defective unit?

Thanks.

Ive noticed the same thing!!

New 6100 owner here. I have the PJ shelf-mounted and the height forces me to use the vertical lens-shift downward to almost it's furthest extent. Doing this creates noticeable defocusing in the lower portion of the image. The middle and top part of the image remain sharp. Is this something that comes with using the full range of the lens-shift or do I have a defective unit?

Thanks.

You might try aiming the projector slightly down to lower the projected image about a foot or so. Then reduce the lens shift to bring the image backup. This will introduce slight keystoning but it may be unnoticed in normal viewing. You be the judge.

Marlin

Just picked this up myself...quick question

Can this display 1920x1080 input from dsub? Confused by the manual but appears the max input is 1360x768 from dsub!

Can anyone PM me the BB Employee price, my roomie work's at one but is off till friday, and his store dosn't have any in stock, if the price is right he agree'd to a road trip.

Anyone fill me in please?

I just picked up this projector but am now having second thoughts with the Optoma HD200X out for $1399, a savings for me of about $1000.
Can anyone advise if this projector is worth the extra coin? I haven't seen the Optoma yet but it is really looking tempting!

DLP (urgh)
2500:1 Contrast ratio??
Be wise and stick with the Epson.:cool:

Thanks Mike I agree the contrast ratio is brutal on it.

I use vertical lens shift (not at max, but the top of my screen is below the pj lens) without any problem. The only thing I can think of for you to check, is make sure that the pj is level, pointing straight forward toward the screen wall before you shift the image down. Sorry if this is obvious. Otherwise I would call Epson for help...

You might find the link below of interest. It was done with the same pj as yours

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1149683&highlight=
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1149683&highlight=

I have found a store with the Epson HC6100 at $1499.97 (after $100 rebate) and a rebate for a free lamp.

I was thinking about going with a 720P to save some $, but at this price, it is hard to resist.

This seems like a really good price, to me.

Should I grab it while I can? Or, do you think the price on this unit is in the process of being lowered?

Thanks.

Bryan

Is this the same as the Epson Home Cinema 6100 Projector?

If so grab it quick.

I have found a store with the Epson HC6100 at $1499.97 (after $100 rebate) and a rebate for a free lamp.

I was thinking about going with a 720P to save some $, but at this price, it is hard to resist.

This seems like a really good price, to me.

Should I grab it while I can? Or, do you think the price on this unit is in the process of being lowered?

Thanks.

Bryan


Where did you see it for this price?

Is this the same as the Epson Home Cinema 6100 Projector?

If so grab it quick.

I think so... as the store (online) has the following as the description... "Epson PowerLite® Home Cinema 6100 Home Theater Projector"... then in model number, it says HC6100.

Bryan

If it is a reputable store - buy it, its cheap:cool:

So, I have looked at the manual online, and it is not clear to me how to calculate where I would need to vertically mount (mount on ceiling; 10 feet high). That is, how much drop should I purchase in a mount?

I was thinking about 120" diag (106w 59h) screen size.

Thanks for your help.

Bryan

I've just spent way too much time reading posts, because I'm wondering about the benefits of dynamic iris vs noise in quiet scenes. When my 6100 was on a tabletop it wasn't an issue, but now ceiling mounted, it is.

How much diff. does it make? Is it quieter in normal or high speed? Does it quiet down with more hours? I've only got 60 hours in so far.

Opinions please!

Im on my way to get my 6100, im stoked, 1st projector

Since a number of people have gone with WilsonArt Designer White "screens", I thought I would share what I found. I was able to pick up a 5'x12' sheet from a WilsonArt distributor/warehouse for $45 in Georgia rather than order through Lowe's/Home Depot. I now have a 120" screen for under $100. Not sure how many warehouses WilsonArt has but if there is one near you, you can pick it up immediately.

I also have the 6100 and I am very happy. Looked at some $3k to $10k projectors in custom home theater stores and while slightly nicer, I am still very happy with my 6100 at the price I paid.

At what presets do you guy run your 6100's I am debating between "Living Room" & "Theatre Black 2"

So, I have looked at the manual online, and it is not clear to me how to calculate where I would need to vertically mount (mount on ceiling; 10 feet high). That is, how much drop should I purchase in a mount?

I was thinking about 120" diag (106w 59h) screen size.

Thanks for your help.

Bryan

For optimal sharpness use the smallest lens shifts possible and minimal zoom.
Having the PJ further from the screen makes practically zero human-eye-discernable difference to brightness and uses more of the lens "sweet spot".
Consider even a little tilting of the screen +/or PJ to minimise lens shift aberration.

Hey guys,
Just joined the forum yesterday, 'cuz I knew I would have questions regarding my 6100.

A couple weeks ago, I got an email from BB saying I could get 3 years same as cash on home theater equipment over $1k. I usually don't buy anything there since they are so expensive compared to online sources, so I didn't pay any attention to it. But a few days ago I started looking at projectors (again). The 6100 got rave reviews everywhere I looked, so I checked prices. Lo and behold, BB had it cheaper than anyone else by a long shot, even the online retailers. I went to the store immediately and gave them the sku and said "I want this. Ring it up." The GM was sitting there and he said "Nope, can't get it, can't fulfill it. Sorry." I got a little miffed at this and asked why they would put something so great on sale at such a low price, and not have any anywhere, and not even be able to order it? He immediately checked his computer for availability at other stores. Wouldn't ya know it, there were two in Utah. They will have it for me by Wednesday (5 days from when I actually paid for it). So, I am trying to get all the info and the "stuff" I need for this thing by then.

That is my story, and here is the first round of questions.

This thread has already been extremely helpful, and I thank all of you for your very informative posts.

Anyway, a long time ago, somebody posted his results of just Velcroing a chunk of screen material to his wall, and I don't remember seeing any follow up to that. Whoever you are, and if you are still paying attention to this thread, how is that workin' out for you? I am seriously considering doing the same thing, since it is 1. Cheap and 2. Easy. If anyone else has done this, please let me know how it is going. Some guy on ebay (he has been mentioned in this thread a couple of times) is selling a 140" gray screen for about $130 shipped, and it looks ideal for my room.

According to the Epson calculator, I will be able to achieve a 137" diagonal picture from 162" (13.5') away. Is this thing accurate? Is the throw on this bad boy really that awesome?

And lastly, I remember reading somewhere that the VGA connector is not capable of 1080p. Is this true? I don't think anyone confirmed that. If so, I need to build a new HTPC on top of everything else. My current tv is 720p, and it acts as a great monitor for the HTPC, showing full resolution through the VGA.

That is it for now. I am sure I will have a lot of other questions after I get my new PJ hooked up. It is great to be here, and once again, thanks for all the very informative posts. You guys are great!

i use 1080p with the vga connector on my xbox 360.

don't forget there's also a rebate for $100, and one for a free lamp.

Chunk- HDMI is the only connection that will carry the 1080p24 I think, VGA or DVI can carry HD picture but not sound. The xbox uses their own proprietary connection- VGA like. There is a HDMI output on the 360 though and the component connection does give a good picture as well as the projector that tries it best to up-convert everything.

Not sure on the screen. I use a painted wall as a lot of people do and it looks great.

i use 1080p with the vga connector on my xbox 360.

don't forget there's also a rebate for $100, and one for a free lamp.

Eh, not really, that rebate doesn't apply to Best Buy or other big chain stores. It says right on the rebate form.

Chunk- HDMI is the only connection that will carry the 1080p24 I think, VGA or DVI can carry HD picture but not sound. The xbox uses their own proprietary connection- VGA like. There is a HDMI output on the 360 though and the component connection does give a good picture as well as the projector that tries it best to up-convert everything.

Not sure on the screen. I use a painted wall as a lot of people do and it looks great.

Not all Xbox 360s have the HDMI port, that only came about in the last year or so. The real thing about it is that its a digital, discrete display device, you really *want* to use DVI or HDMI (DVI via an adapter, check monoprice.com) because even with a good VGA cable you're more than likely going to lose color range and sharpness as you're going digital -> analog in the video card, transmitting analog over a distance via the cable and then back from analog to digital again in the PJ. with DVI or HDMI you're transfering straight digital, some would argue that you can create white crush or black crush if you don't set it up right, but I promise its worth it. If you're HTPC doesn't have DVI out, you'll probably wanna upgrade *at least* the video card anyway... you're not going to be able to (legally) play blu ray through anything but HDMI anyway, and that's kinda the point of buying a 1080p 'home theater' projector anyway... to watch movies at home with as much detail and quality as is possible right? :)

You can get on new egg and get a mobo w/ HD3200+ or nvidia 8200+ with a processor and ram for < $200, add a < $100 blu ray drive and you're 90% there. Or wait for whatever is gonna happen in PS3 line (slim? price cut? supposed to be something soon anyway) Or get one of the new popcorn hour boxes that you can add a blu ray drive too for $299. At anyrate, there's not much sense hooking a PC up via VGA these days :)

I'm sorry if my questions have been answered, but feel free to flame me... as long as you also link to the answers. :)

I just purchased this projector this past week while it was on sale at Best Buy. I absolutely love it, except for one small problem I'm having...

My colors seem just the slightest bit out of alignment. There are no menu functions for tweaking these, though. It is most noticeable with text. At the bottom of the screen it seems like my blue is one pixel too high, while the top 60% or so looks perfect. A friend from work who used to install home theater setups for a living said there is sometimes a "secret" menu on some projectors that repair reps can access. (He pointed me towards this site, by the way.)

I bought the black tie plan from Best Buy (one or two lamp replacements over the next 4 years will pay for it) so I suppose I could bring it in, but I'd much rather handle it on my end.

If that menu does not exist, would using a VGA cable allow me to adjust and fix the issue? I know there are options available when using a VGA cable that are inaccessible when using HDMI. Alternatively, does anyone know of a program I could run to adjust the output from my computer to sort of pre-adjust for the issue? (Sort of like adjusting a scope to compensate for a bent barrel.)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. As I said, I could hand this thing over to the geek squad for a couple weeks, but I'd prefer to just solve the problem myself if possible.

Thanks all.

EDIT: I have an Nvidia 8800 GTS, in case that makes a difference. Also, the projector is ceiling mounted, but not flipped (DIY hanging shelf-style mount).

Does anyone know if there is a way to have the unit turn off with one click of the power button instead two clicks of power off -once to get a confirming screen then once again to get the power off?

Hi All. Quick question. I have had the tw3000 (uk version of the 6100) for a couple of weeks now and have a small question. I have heard it mentioned that the default sharpness setting isnt neutral ie there is some form of enhancement going on right out the box. I checked this and under 'advanced sharpness' the 'thin line and thick line enhancement' was set to 5. Cant be sure though as I am at work.

What would the more experienced users here recommend for sharpness?

Thanks in advance.

At what presets do you guy run your 6100's I am debating between "Living Room" & "Theatre Black 2"

I have a completely dark (no windows) theatre room, and so far I like Theatre Black 2.

I guess I'm looking for the pop and wow factor. Theatre Black 1 looks more natural on skin tones, but a bit washed out occasionally on some colours, which is why I go with Theatre Black 2.

Hope this helps.

Now guys, can anyone answer my post about the benefits of dynamic iris versus the sound it makes?

Would a 120" screen at 12'6" be too close to get a good quality picture. The calulator says is good to go, my ceiling height is 8'4". The reason I ask is because i have read that the best is at it midpoint throw distance or 15-16'?

I can move the the pj back, but at 12'6" i can recess the pj between 2 joists , and not have a pj ceiling mounted, it would be in the ceiling.

Hey again, guys.

Just got my 6100 yesterday, got it mounted and hooked up to my sat box.
Everything looks pretty good on a white wall (I am waiting for a screen), but the SD channels have dancing white lights at the top edge of the picture. Is this normal? It does not happen on HD channels, but the SD channels are very irritating.

If there is an adjustment for this somewhere, I would appreciate it if someone could clue me in.

Thanks for the replies before.

Thanks, Ian. I had to get a new case, mobo (with a geforce 9400 onboard and HDMI out), proc, and BD drive. All told it was about $375.The old HTPC was an old Dell that a customer gave to me. I loved it because it was so quiet (couldn't hear it at all, actually), so I used it for my HTPC and sold my old one. Anyway, the old Dell couldn't be upgraded due to so much proprietary stuff being in the proprietary case. Besides, it had no PCIe slots for a new vid card.

Would a 120" screen at 12'6" be too close to get a good quality picture. The calulator says is good to go, my ceiling height is 8'4". The reason I ask is because i have read that the best is at it midpoint throw distance or 15-16'?

I can move the the pj back, but at 12'6" i can recess the pj between 2 joists , and not have a pj ceiling mounted, it would be in the ceiling.

Any imput on my query - thanks guys, much appreciated

S

shftup - I have a 114" DW DIY screen. I had my 6100 at 14' in a spot I liked. I wasn't totally happy with the contrast though it was plenty bright. I built a shelf at 17' and I am more happy.

I would say don't commit yet. Get the 6100 and try out different spots.

Hey again, guys.

Just got my 6100 yesterday, got it mounted and hooked up to my sat box.
Everything looks pretty good on a white wall (I am waiting for a screen), but the SD channels have dancing white lights at the top edge of the picture. Is this normal? It does not happen on HD channels, but the SD channels are very irritating.

If there is an adjustment for this somewhere, I would appreciate it if someone could clue me in.

Thanks for the replies before.

I have had some channels come in that way on NBC from cable. Dont know if there is a way to get rid of it. Might be your aspect ratio on your sat. box- call directv and see what they say.

Any imput on my query - thanks guys, much appreciated

S


Thats about what distant I have mine at and I'm just able to get to 120" fully zoomed out. Is 12'6" front of the lens to the wall? My picture looks fine, never heard of a bad picture the closer you get as long as your inside the focal length. The further away you are though will produce a less bright picture but still, this thing has the power to do that as well

shftup - I have a 114" DW DIY screen. I had my 6100 at 14' in a spot I liked. I wasn't totally happy with the contrast though it was plenty bright. I built a shelf at 17' and I am more happy.

I would say don't commit yet. Get the 6100 and try out different spots.

thanx, this is good, i will do some testing.
S

Hey again, guys.

Just got my 6100 yesterday, got it mounted and hooked up to my sat box.
Everything looks pretty good on a white wall (I am waiting for a screen), but the SD channels have dancing white lights at the top edge of the picture. Is this normal? It does not happen on HD channels, but the SD channels are very irritating.

If there is an adjustment for this somewhere, I would appreciate it if someone could clue me in.

Thanks for the replies before.


I figured it out on my own after speaking with the idiots at 2nd level tech support. They wanted me to get a repeater for my 25' HDMI cable. What a joke. I politely said thank you and hung up after that. They had supposedly never heard of this issue. They wanted to exchange it right off the bat, but I said no. Anyway, here is the fix. Go into Menu -> Signal -> Advanced -> Output Scaling. Set it for 98%. There is no change in quality or size that I can see, and the bright line at the top of the screen is GONE on SD channels!

Hello Chunkhead,

I have a friend who is considering hooking a 6100 directly up to a cable box, as you have. Earlier in this thread there was discussion of 2-3 second delay when changing channels b/w SD and HD as the 6100 adjusted to the change in resolution. What has your experience with that been?

Thanks.

Hey Folks:

I've read with great interest a number of posts regarding problems and warranty claims and thought I would post about my own recent transaction with Epson.

Got my projector on New Year's eve. Right out of the box it was great BUT (and perhaps it was buyer's remorse) but the warm fuzzies soon to fade.

The iris was EXTREMELY noisy (as has been posted by others) to the point that I just left it off. It also didn't keep focus (again, as some others have posted).

If these two things weren't enough, my unit began to develop a red band across the bottom (top actually - mine is ceiling mounted) that first showed up as about 20 pixels highg but quickly grew to about 40 px high.

I called Epson and spoke with a VERY friendly person. I explained the situatio and didn't even have a chance to mention the red colour banding before he interrupted and said that the iris and focus issues were enough to warrant a replacement.

That call took place around 6:00pm ET (calling to somewhere in Washington state I believe) so really too late to expect much of a response). As I suspected, they must have placed the order with Epson Canada the following Monday because i received my replacement unit on Tuesday.

As was explained to me - the unit I received was refurbished - NOT NEW. I thought I would be sending them my unit which they would repair and send back to me. Not so... I got someone else's problem unit which was refurbished and someone else will get mine (once repaired). This is mine to keep.

My previous unit had about 820 hours on the bulb - I inquired about whether the replacement would have a new bulb or more/fewer hours. The epson help couldn't answer this but suggested if it was a concern to me then I should swap bulbs.

The replacement must have either been reset OR had a new bulb because there was no mileage recorded in the info menu. I took a chance and kept this one's bulb (picture looked bright enough).

All I had to do was pack my current one up in the box the replacement came with, affix the supplied mailing label and call FedEx for a delivery (from work only - otherwise you have to go to a FedEx depot). That's that. They did require a credit card (the replacement packing slip said $1400) to keep on file in case the original PJ was not returned. Also, the packing slip indicated that I had a week to send the original back.

So far with the new PJ so good. Picture is nice and bright and sharp. No red bar across the bottom. The iris still makes some sound but NOTHING like before (I've read upthread that this is normal). The focus ring seems much more resistent to my touch and so perhaps that is a good thing - havn't spent much time with this unit to see how well it holds focus (just hooked up the replacement 2 days ago).

All this to say, Epson exchange program is EXCELLENT! (I'm writing from Canada but seeing as I spoke with someone from the US I can only imagine that US owners will have an equally good experience).

So far despite the problems with what was obviously attributed to an early design flaw, I have been very happy with my unit and would recommend it to anyone.

GLange,
So far, so good. No problems at all. There isn't any more delay than there was on my LCD tv. Tell him to go for it. This thing rocks. But, this is my first PJ, so there may be much better out there.

Is this projector worth the upgrade from my Mits hd1000?

I have some screen shots posted in my HT build thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16914427#post16914427

Just picked up the HC6100 from Best Buy for 1599.99 and 18 mos. no interest. I will get the bulb later( that way I know it's a new one ). I am planning on useing a 92" Salara manual screen from Draper. Does anyone have any experience with these screens???

I think I'll keep an eye on these until they have a good cash rebate over the bulb. I have the Home Cinema 400 and have been very pleased with it, but am ready for 1080P now.

XTweeter: I could not even find the 6100 in bestbuy.com. Is this only available in some stores?

XTweeter: I could not even find the 6100 in bestbuy.com. Is this only available in some stores?

Forget about getting one at BestBuy. I've had one ordered for about a month and got an email yesterday saying they cancelled my order. I would look for one at one of the forum sponsors like ProjectorPeople or visualApex

Yea, that sucks! I was kicking myself for not taking advantage of the $400 off + 36months no interest. :mad:

O well, hopefully i can get a good deal from one of the many sponsors here or wait to see what the Optoma HD20 will look like. Unfortunately, I need financing and all the people I've contacted so far don't offer any. I don't have 2 grand just laying around, but I can pay a monthly amount.

XTweeter: I could not even find the 6100 in bestbuy.com. Is this only available in some stores?I guess I got lucky, I found mine in New Hampshire and waited a week for it. Another member said he was waiting for a cash rebate. I say ,why give them the cash in the first place.

I got 12 months no interest at HH Gregg.

Yea, that sucks! I was kicking myself for not taking advantage of the $400 off + 36months no interest. :mad:

O well, hopefully i can get a good deal from one of the many sponsors here or wait to see what the Optoma HD20 will look like. Unfortunately, I need financing and all the people I've contacted so far don't offer any. I don't have 2 grand just laying around, but I can pay a monthly amount.

There are still some 6100s at individual best buys even if the item has been pulled from inventory. I picked one up today north of houston. Price listed was retail, but manager honored last web price and financing was 36mos no interest. If you need to finance, might be worth a visit.

Thanks for the AVS forum i was able to find the Epson HC 6100 at best buy

I installed the projector on a home made screen with blackout cloth
Distance from screen 13 feet
Screen diagonal - 106 inches

Question : I notice grainy ( lack of better term ) on the screen or wall

Ex Screen : Casino royale first scene when the car enter the scene , a concrete pillar on the right is grey color and i can see the pixles dancing or
grainy ( again lack of better term )


HDMI cable is 35 feet long , i changed the HDMI to monster HDMI same effect , removed the power fully to difference source, added APC power regulator to clean power Same effect , change the Blu ray player same effect

Any advise will be useful. Thanks

Note : Please advise if i need to create a new post.

sat

Thanks for the AVS forum i was able to find the Epson HC 6100 at best buy

I installed the projector on a home made screen with blackout cloth
Distance from screen 13 feet
Screen diagonal - 106 inches

Question : I notice grainy ( lack of better term ) on the screen or wall

Ex Screen : Casino royale first scene when the car enter the scene , a concrete pillar on the right is grey color and i can see the pixles dancing or
grainy ( again lack of better term )


HDMI cable is 35 feet long , i changed the HDMI to monster HDMI same effect , removed the power fully to difference source, added APC power regulator to clean power Same effect , change the Blu ray player same effect

Any advise will be useful. Thanks

Note : Please advise if i need to create a new post.

sat
You probably should try a amplified cable. You can get one from Better Cables.com.

Thanks for the AVS forum i was able to find the Epson HC 6100 at best buy

I installed the projector on a home made screen with blackout cloth
Distance from screen 13 feet
Screen diagonal - 106 inches

Question : I notice grainy ( lack of better term ) on the screen or wall

Ex Screen : Casino royale first scene when the car enter the scene , a concrete pillar on the right is grey color and i can see the pixles dancing or
grainy ( again lack of better term )


HDMI cable is 35 feet long , i changed the HDMI to monster HDMI same effect , removed the power fully to difference source, added APC power regulator to clean power Same effect , change the Blu ray player same effect

Any advise will be useful. Thanks

Note : Please advise if i need to create a new post.

sat

First, the opening sequence in casino royale is intentionally very grainy. It looked like that in the theater. I would try an animated movie like Ratatouille or A Bug's Life or a movie shot on video like Miami Vice and see if what is bothering you is film grain (which is part of the original movie) or if your setup really has a ton of digital noise (which might be fixable).

Second, what mode are you using? The higher output modes (like dynamic) will amplify grain (or digital noise, if present).

Finally, while I think it unlikely your HDMI cable is the problem, there is no condition on earth that can be improved by changing to a monster-brand cable (other than a case of too-much-money-in-my-walletitits). If you think your cable really is the problem, there are any number of internet retailers (monoprice, bluejeanscable, etc.) that offer products that perform as well as or better for a fraction of the cost.

I will rent ratatoulie and update with in 2 or 3 days about the grainy effect. Thanks

New Epson 6100 owner here, chiming in!

I love this thing! I absolutely love the 2:2 Pulldown, and it makes such a difference to me. 2:2 (and 4:4 on other models) Pulldown is exactly how I like it, none of that freaky CFI stuff for me, thanks! It's made watching Blu-rays a real joy. I turn it off and on depending on the movie, and I'm incredibly conscious of it. I could tell you if it's on or not within a few seconds.

Also, this projector is perfect for playing video games (90% of my time with it) because it has incredibly low input lag (and why I chose this model).

I recommend this to anyone!

First, the opening sequence in casino royale is intentionally very grainy. It looked like that in the theater. I would try an animated movie like Ratatouille or A Bug's Life or a movie shot on video like Miami Vice and see if what is bothering you is film grain (which is part of the original movie) or if your setup really has a ton of digital noise (which might be fixable).

Second, what mode are you using? The higher output modes (like dynamic) will amplify grain (or digital noise, if present).

Finally, while I think it unlikely your HDMI cable is the problem, there is no condition on earth that can be improved by changing to a monster-brand cable (other than a case of too-much-money-in-my-walletitits). If you think your cable really is the problem, there are any number of internet retailers (monoprice, bluejeanscable, etc.) that offer products that perform as well as or better for a fraction of the cost.
thanks for the suggestion , ratatoulie is more cleaner , very little grain may be digital noise. Please advise as you mentioned what i need to do to clean up the noise. thanks

I am looking for some calibration settings for the xbox 360 using vga.

Same here if anyone has good settings for the 360 VGA.....I am color blind so not the best at calibrating :/

Just a thought to people playing games on this thing:

You don't necessarily WANT a D65 colour calibration for playing games! Games aren't meant to be run at those colour settings, as they are and never were in film format.

I use D65 for movies, but for games - bump up the colour, saturation, brightness, make it look crazy! D65 has dingy whites and very little pop - most games are supposed to look a certain way, and D65 isn't it...

Just doing a flyby. I just installed the 6100 on a shelf, 16' from a Dragonfly 110" matte white screen and am blown away. I moved from an Infocus 7205 and there's no comparison. I'll never go back to DLP again. Can't wait to tweak this puppy! Aside from the excellent blacks, contrast, color, etc. is the crispness. This unit is razor sharp.

John Frank, what letter does your serial number end with? L or S?

Upon hardcore testing, my unit does defocus when it's cold. It takes around 10-15 minutes to reach my focus that I've adjusted when warm, but then it's crazy sharp. I mean it's never *blurry*, but it's definitely not scalpel sharp when cold...

I just joined the 6100 club. I'm coming from an old Panasonic AE900 and all I can say is wow. This thing is razor sharp compared to the old AE900. I really didn't expect 720p/1080i broadcast material to be this much better. I expected the big improvement on 1080p blu-ray but I'm just blown away by how much better broadcast HD looks.

I know the AE900's smooth screen softened the picture to eliminate screen door etc, but the 6100 is just on another level. I see no screen door from 10 feet on a 106" screen and the picture is just razor sharp. Brightness as well is much improved over the AE900 as expected. Blacks look really nice in Theatre 1 mode as well. Brighter whites and blacker blacks on the new projector :) Yes, I'm a brightness junkie as I have a hi power as well.

Only gripe so far.. iris is a little noisy.. verdict is still out on this since I only set the projector up yesterday. I'm watching the focus as well. We'll see how that goes over the next few days. Over all though... incredible value in this projector.

The iris *is* noisy! I turned it off and never looked back. I don't like how long it takes to brighten at key scenes, really. I don't miss it, it was distracting if anything. In theatre black 1 with brightness set to -6 (as per THX on T2 Blu-ray) it looks fantastic! No looking back here!

I got 12 months no interest at HH Gregg.

Just wondering is HH Gregg an authorized dealer? If so would you get the current rebate too (terms only state BB, OfficeMax or any educational institution won't get it)?

John Frank, what letter does your serial number end with? L or S?

Upon hardcore testing, my unit does defocus when it's cold. It takes around 10-15 minutes to reach my focus that I've adjusted when warm, but then it's crazy sharp. I mean it's never *blurry*, but it's definitely not scalpel sharp when cold...

Is the defocus issue just w/ older versions or basically w/ the 6100 as a whole? Trying to figure out if it's worth paying a bit more and get it from store in case this issue pops up.

I wouldn't call it a defocus issue, I'd call it a "character trait." :D

But then again, I don't know if mine is one of the fixed ones or not. I mean, it takes like 10 minutes to reach perfect focus, I'm not going to bother with it, when the convergence lack of dead pixels pleases me so!

Have the chance to get one of these for $1100 on CL - would be upgrading from a Cinema 400 - is it going to be worth it for the difference or might it be better to wait until the whole model change/price drops coming soon? Not sure what the old one is worth, but it only has a month old lamp and would probably be good for another couple of years.

Have the chance to get one of these for $1100 on CL - would be upgrading from a Cinema 400 - is it going to be worth it for the difference or might it be better to wait until the whole model change/price drops coming soon? Not sure what the old one is worth, but it only has a month old lamp and would probably be good for another couple of years.

Im in the same boat. Ive found a good deal on a HC6100 as well but not near as good as you have. Im also in debate whether to go ahead and purchase the 6100 as the sale ends 8/31 or to wait it out and see how all the new budget projectors perform and if possibly prices drop even more after cedia.

Well, wife said no =\ and the seller said he'd take $1000 shipped - too bad. If anyone else wants to take the risk feel free to.

Well, wife said no =\ and the seller said he'd take $1000 shipped - too bad. If anyone else wants to take the risk feel free to.

Is that price legal?Lol!

thanks for the suggestion , ratatoulie is more cleaner , very little grain may be digital noise. Please advise as you mentioned what i need to do to clean up the noise. thanks

I used an amplified Better Cables Silver Serpent 40 ft. cable which works great. Cable ran 199.99 shipped. Here are some shots of my room using a Draper Salara manual pull down screen 92". The HC6100 looks fantastic, even on digital channels and upconverted DVD's. I am using a Pioneer model 120 Blu Ray player that I got from Best Buy for 161.00 bucks.

Well, wife said no =\ and the seller said he'd take $1000 shipped - too bad. If anyone else wants to take the risk feel free to.

Well, you can get a brand new one for almost that cheap with 100 dollar rebate and the value of a free extra bulb. If you could get one for 1000 before rebates, then Id consider a divorce.

I wouldn't trust that deal. CL is notorious for "too good to be true" deals. If you are going to make bid purchases on CL's, be sure to thoroughly read this first:
http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams

I wouldn't trust that deal. CL is notorious for "too good to be true" deals. If you are going to make bid purchases on CL's, be sure to thoroughly read this first:
http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams


dont forget the warranty that comes with the new one as well

I thought this might be of interest to owners of this projector.

I contacted Epson (text below is edited)
"it is known that there is a limitation with all projectors whereby they have to process the video signal, which takes time, and in turn the corresponding audio signal arrives at our ears ahead of the picture. Hence imperfect lip-sync. For this reason, many signal sources (amps, players, computer software) provide an adjustable audio delay feature.

I find it tricky to get lip-sync by ear and it never seems quite right. But if I knew the picture delay (in milliseconds) then I expect I will be able to set the same amount of audio delay and get "perfect" sync. That is what I would like to try.

Can you quote me the delay please "

EPSON replied (edited slightly)

" Unfortunately we do not have that information. Our engineers have determined it proprietary information and will not be released. They also stated that the delay is extremely minimal. "
__________________________________
Someone else spontaneously commented that they found the video delay was very short and that is how it seems to me too but I couldn't believe my adjustment. Well done Epson. We love this PJ.

The video delay on the Epson 6100 is about the fastest on the planet. It's been measured at 16ms. Any faster and you'd need to hook up a 1985 CRT on the wall :D

I'm a hardcore gamer, this projector was bought explicitly for its video lag speed. If you're having issues, then something must be terribly wrong. Have you got any noise reduction or any other video features turned on? 2:2 pull-down enabled for Blu-rays?

We can talk about this, I'm very well versed in this. I'm obsessed with it!

Wife changed her mind and said to just get it. Fortunately I've had a lot of good luck buying from CL out of state. Of course had buyers remorse as soon as the payment was sent, but hopefully that will change once it is hooked up. I'm really not sure what differences I will even see over 720P as I have no experience viewing any true HD content. It's already shipped out and only two states away so I'm guessing I'll find out on Monday.

I'm really not sure what differences I will even see over 720P as I have no experience viewing any true HD content.
If you have a blu-ray player hooked up to the 6100, you WILL see a huge difference from your old setup. Report back once you have it all hooked up. Have fun.

The video delay on the Epson 6100 is about the fastest on the planet. It's been measured at 16ms. Any faster and you'd need to hook up a 1985 CRT on the wall :D

I'm a hardcore gamer, this projector was bought explicitly for its video lag speed. If you're having issues, then something must be terribly wrong. Have you got any noise reduction or any other video features turned on? 2:2 pull-down enabled for Blu-rays?

We can talk about this, I'm very well versed in this. I'm obsessed with it!

Thanks for your feedback. I am not having issues other than lipsync, but with TV I guess we are at the mercy of the broadcasters sometimes which may be why it rarely seems right. Now, thanks to you, I know that if I set to a measured figure of (only) 16ms, I should be correct most of the time. I can't wait to try it and will get back to the forum/you with my findings.

I am intrigued how you came by that 16ms figure. I was only using guesswork and info. from a recent magazine article on the topic. It suggested figures like 120ms were generally necessary. I tried that but it clearly seemed way off. I was better off turning off the sound and lip reading :D

I don't know why Epson are secretive about a figure, especially as theirs is excellent. I realise any figure will vary depending on settings e.g. level of noise reduction, and connection ( HDMI or VGA), but I would have thought they could supply a range of figures.

Have a PS3 hooked up for games and BR - most everything we watch now is BR. Any recommendations on movies that would really show the difference? Still trying to get used to the new (and unfortunately) high gain screen with the Cinema 400.

If you have a blu-ray player hooked up to the 6100, you WILL see a huge difference from your old setup. Report back once you have it all hooked up. Have fun.

Have a PS3 hooked up for games and BR - most everything we watch now is BR. Any recommendations on movies that would really show the difference? Still trying to get used to the new (and unfortunately) high gain screen with the Cinema 400.

You can check the Tier thread over in the software section for a list of great demo BDs. But I recently changed from an AX200 to the 6100 and the first movie we rewatched that both of us felt was significantly better was Kung Fu Panda. It looked great in 720p, but with the 6100, the shadow detail was improved (I never felt like I had to strain to see what was happening in the dark scenes in the prison), the textures of the fabrics (lots of imitation of various silk brocade designs and lots of natural burlap/woven jackets) were a lot more apparent, and the details hold together during scenes with lots of motion (where the 720p projector used to get much blurrier).

Wife changed her mind and said to just get it. Fortunately I've had a lot of good luck buying from CL out of state. Of course had buyers remorse as soon as the payment was sent, but hopefully that will change once it is hooked up. I'm really not sure what differences I will even see over 720P as I have no experience viewing any true HD content. It's already shipped out and only two states away so I'm guessing I'll find out on Monday.

You will see a real improvement if you are using a large screen 92" and above , depending on how close your'e sitting from the screen. I sit 14 feet away from a 92" screen and the image is outstanding for HD and digital channels look very, very respectable as well. I posted a picture of my screen with an image on it in HD on this post. Check it out.

Hope, it works out for you. As I mentioned you can buy it new online for as little as 1499- minus 100 dollar rebate, free bulb, which if you sold would make the final price about 1099....but a lot of people don't like to go through the hassle of rebates and selling lamps.

Screen is 150", but not sitting very far back yet since I'm still trying to work on the room.

Pete - Where were you able to find it for $1499? Lowest I could find was still over $1800.

Woops, h and r gregg has it on sale for 1599 online and in store, so with the rebate that would be 1499 plus free lamp. However, a few people have said they were able to get them to knock it down to 1499 in the stores without the rebate. So it might be more than I said, but you also might be able to use bing cashback online.

And unfortunately another $150 on top for tax. Great deal for tax free states at least =]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2
The video delay on the Epson 6100 is about the fastest on the planet. It's been measured at 16ms. Any faster and you'd need to hook up a 1985 CRT on the wall

I'm a hardcore gamer, this projector was bought explicitly for its video lag speed. If you're having issues, then something must be terribly wrong. Have you got any noise reduction or any other video features turned on? 2:2 pull-down enabled for Blu-rays?

We can talk about this, I'm very well versed in this. I'm obsessed with it!

Thanks for your feedback. I am not having issues other than lipsync, but with TV I guess we are at the mercy of the broadcasters sometimes which may be why it rarely seems right. Now, thanks to you, I know that if I set to a measured figure of (only) 16ms, I should be correct most of the time. I can't wait to try it and will get back to the forum/you with my findings.

I am intrigued how you came by that 16ms figure. I was only using guesswork and info. from a recent magazine article on the topic. It suggested figures like 120ms were generally necessary. I tried that but it clearly seemed way off. I was better off turning off the sound and lip reading

I don't know why Epson are secretive about a figure, especially as theirs is excellent. I realise any figure will vary depending on settings e.g. level of noise reduction, and connection ( HDMI or VGA), but I would have thought they could supply a range of figures."



Ok. I have tried 16ms audio delay with digital TV and it is very good-- certainly better than before and no distracting lip-sync problem, so it must be close. However, if I pay strict attention it doesn't seem spot-on either. I will adjust in 5ms increments over the next few days and report.

Has anyone ever messed with Projector People's "Demo Room" (http://www.hometheaterpeople.com/projector-showroom/projector-video-demos.asp)? I don't know if it's just me, but the 6100 looks better then any other projector on the list. All the other demo's look very similar to each other. How accurate do you think this demonstration tool is?

@Vur

What movie are you testing that audio sync with? It's possible that particular movie has sync issues on its own! Test with a few. My audio sync is perfect, and I'm picky...

6100 arrived and looks perfect - really didn't know how much bigger this was versus my 400. So far I really dislike the new remote over the old one. Hopefully going to get them swapped out either today or tomorrow and see what kind of difference there is and hopefully get over the buyers remorse.

Looks like the price at HHGREGG is $1799. Free shipping and no tax for me here in Kansas. Plus you get the $100 and free lamp. Anyone know of a better deal for this projector? I don't want to go the CL route.

Looks like the price at HHGREGG is $1799. Free shipping and no tax for me here in Kansas. Plus you get the $100 and free lamp. Anyone know of a better deal for this projector? I don't want to go the CL route.

edstein,

theres a few websites that do a 110% price garauntee so if you get them to match $1799 plus the 10% it would be -$179 making it $1620. Dont forget about Bing cash back either if you can get that as well youll be looking at around $1530 plus the $100 rebate and free lamp. If you were to consider that you were going to buy a backup lamp anyway then you could consider your getting the projector for $1130.

I am very new to pj's and just purchased the 6100. If I have to set it up 25 ft away from the wall how big will my screen size be? Will the picture be affected with it being that far way? Is there a zoom on it that will shrink the size of it or will that affect the picture? Sorry for being a noob.

Hey Mike,

Go to this website and toy around with the calculator with your numbers. This projector is VERY versatile and easy to achieve an image of your requirements.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_6100-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Hey Mike,

Go to this website and toy around with the calculator with your numbers. This projector is VERY versatile and easy to achieve an image of your requirements.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_6100-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Thanks. I played around with it and it said that my screen would be over a 187'' at 25'. Would I be able to turn that into a 130'' screen from 25' away with out any picture problems?

Thanks. I played around with it and it said that my screen would be over a 187'' at 25'. Would I be able to turn that into a 130'' screen from 25' away with out any picture problems?

From 25', the smallest screen you can get to is 119", so you can do 130". The issue you are going to run into is brightness. Cranking down the lens like that significantly cuts light output. Everyone has different expectations and you might be happy with the image, but I'd look for a way to get a little closer if you can. The 6100 has a lot of lens shift, so you don't have to be dead center when you mount it.

Of note: You are going to have this problem with any projector. The 6100 will give you a brighter image than most at this distance.

Well I finally hooked this up and so far so good.
No focus issues whatsoever,my serial number ends in L.
I'll try to post a few screenshots later but all went well and virtually no problems anywhere.Already had my ceiling mount in place from Premier Mounts so all I did was take down my old Epson 500 and put up the 6100.
Inverted the image,focused, and zoomed the picture to fit my 92" Da-lite screen.
Done deal!
All connections are HDMI and projector sets the aspect automatically on NORMAL.
Color mode setting is on Living Room for now but I'll adjust as need be.
HR22-100 DVR hook up scanned for the 1080p and ok with that.
Tested BR connection and really popped off the screen.
Very happy after day one-hope this continues.

Well, in a sad turns of events...

I've called in my 6100. The defocusing has actually gotten worse, and for the first time it's actually annoying to have to think about. I adjusted it 30 minutes in, and then an hour later it's bad again. It didn't used to be like this! 70 hours on the bulb in eco mode. High altitude mode makes this worse, of all things. I've haven't tried normal mode nor will I.

Epson is sending me another one, and the lady on the phone wasn't surprised one bit about the defocusing. In fact, I got the special "Epson 6100 support line". That doesn't sound good! My serial number ends with L... I'll keep everyone posted on what comes to me as a replacement. I'm curious about the convergence, too, since mine seems fine but not perfect. (I don't mind, impossible to tell at viewing distance)

Here's hoping it gets better than this. :D

On the other hand, the projector is freakin' awesome. I already got my free bulb and $100 rebate, so I'm happy about that.

For those of you who got replacements for defocusing, what did your new serial number look like? It would be nice to be able to nail down that scheme here as useful info.

John Frank, what letter does your serial number end with? L or S?

Upon hardcore testing, my unit does defocus when it's cold. It takes around 10-15 minutes to reach my focus that I've adjusted when warm, but then it's crazy sharp. I mean it's never *blurry*, but it's definitely not scalpel sharp when cold...

It ends in L

Sorry it took so long. I need to come here more often.

Yes, this projector is razor sharp. I've been using it for weeks and everytime I turn it on I am in awe. Can't wait to tweak it, it seems to have so much to offer. Super easy to pinpoint the screen too with the pattern option, ajdustable front feet, zoom etc. If you can't fit this projector into any size room or configuration...

I talked to a senior tech and he said the defocusing issue was caught early on, production was stopped and only corrected units have been shipping, for months. I have no focusing issues, sure hope you can get it resolved.

Yeah I hope so. I wouldn't mind if it took, say, 10-15 minutes to focus and stayed the way, but it doesn't. 45 minutes is unacceptable, and bordering on embarrassing when I have guests over trying to show this thing off. I always run it on low mode, and I'm guessing that puts out a lot less heat, so it takes longer to defocus from the heat. Either way, not cool, especially since it's getting worse.

I'll keep you all posted. Anyone have a serial number that ends with S, and if so, when did you get it?

Have no fear, Tommyv2. My original 6100 had the same focusing issue. The replacement Epson sent me has been stellar for months. I have had no issues with it whatsoever.

I was going to ask the same thing - noticed the defocusing on my 6100 and I've only used it a couple of hours. Will probably call and have a replacement done next week. The main reason I went with this was Epsons great support and how happy I was with my Cinema 400.

Edit - ship date on the box to BB was Oct '08, so I guess it was an older one

Forgot to add a point. If you noticed, Epson does not do a very good job of protecting the front of the lens from head-on damage, the front of the lens rests too close to the side. My zoom ring was jammed and apparently it was due from rough handling. The less than stellar packaging is a known issue. Epson had great service and within 2 days I had a new unit at my door.

good luck

http://www.projectorreviews.com/blog/2009/01/21/epson-6500ub-6100-tw5000-plv-z3000-de-focusing/ (the low down)

Gotta love the service - called yesterday and replacement is here. Hopefully this will take care of the issue.

I got my replacement today. This one's serial number ends with L as well. I'll hook it up tonight and report here. Anyone else with the same problem, let us know...

...hopefully this fixes it, it's become really annoying and embarrassing.

So far I think this one might be okay, aside from the rough physical condition of the unit - it seems to be holding focus. Does anyone have a good image or something to better test the focus holding over just looking at the screen and menu text?

I use a computer to test the focusing. The text will really show whether or not your focused.
The unit Epson sent me as a replacement is worse then the one I sent them. The image shifts as the projector warms up. The focus isn't uniform accross the screen, and the fans are noisy.
I now have zero confidence in the 6100. If the next one Epson sends is good out of the box I may sale it and look at different brands.
Don't like the idea of paying new projector price and getting a refurbished as a warranty replacement.
On the plus side, the image is awesome, for a while.

I was using the web browser on the PS3 for text, but of course it isn't as clear as the comp would be. I have noticed a little non-uniform focus across the screen, but that might just be my eyes playing tricks.

Well... here's my report.

The unit I received was brand new, or the world's greatest refurb. Serial number starts with LGL and ends with L. Thousands of numbers higher than my last one, bought 6 weeks ago.

-focus seems to hold fine, but I need more days to truly confirm. My last one got worse over time, looked fine when new
-the pixel convergence is awesome! Much better than my last. The north-south convergence is flawless, and only one pixel off to a side. Great!
-zero dead/stuck pixels, and trust me - I'm obsessed
-same noise levels in fan and iris (which I don't use, just testing)
-the lens shift is still a joke. Flimsy and delicate like before (no biggie, I set it and forget it)
-color uniformity (tested on a white screen) is identical to last - excellent
-focus is fairly uniform across screen. No better or worse than my last

I'm happy with it, as long as it holds up in the focus department.

Hey guys. I got my 6100 yesterday (my first projector), set it up and tried it out on my Elite Cinewhite 100" screen. I haven't purchased a blu ray yet (probably this weekend) so hooked it up to my DirectTV HD receiver and watched a few HD channels & movies. The colors didn't seem very bright and appeared to be somewhat "washed out" for lack of a better word. This is straight out of the box with only manual focusing. Any simple suggestions or thoughts for adjustments, etc. There was very little background (ambient) light when I was watching it.

I use a computer to test the focusing. The text will really show whether or not your focused.
The unit Epson sent me as a replacement is worse then the one I sent them. The image shifts as the projector warms up. The focus isn't uniform accross the screen, and the fans are noisy.
I now have zero confidence in the 6100. If the next one Epson sends is good out of the box I may sale it and look at different brands.
Don't like the idea of paying new projector price and getting a refurbished as a warranty replacement.
On the plus side, the image is awesome, for a while.

Just got off the phone with Epson. This time they are sending me a new one.
It's hard to complain about a company that has customer service like that.
I never even asked them to send a new one, I just told them the problem. The tech did seem a little surprised that the replacement they sent me was defective.

Hey guys. I got my 6100 yesterday (my first projector), set it up and tried it out on my Elite Cinewhite 100" screen. I haven't purchased a blu ray yet (probably this weekend) so hooked it up to my DirectTV HD receiver and watched a few HD channels & movies. The colors didn't seem very bright and appeared to be somewhat "washed out" for lack of a better word. This is straight out of the box with only manual focusing. Any simple suggestions or thoughts for adjustments, etc. There was very little background (ambient) light when I was watching it.

First, how far away is the projector from the screen? Second, where was the ambient light coming from/pointing at and what color walls do you have? All this stuff impacts the "pop" of the image, even before calibration is considered. Then, what color mode were you in? In complete light control, I use Theater Black 2 (which I tweaked a bit with DVE), but with ambient light (for sports, etc.), I use "natural", which looks a little richer/vibrant when I have some lights on. Finally, what are you comparing it to? If you are coming from an uncalibrated LCD, for example, the epson may look relatively dull (though more accurate). Oh, and it takes about 5 minutes for the projector to reach a steady state, so it will be dim upon startup.

I have the 6100 mounted 13' from a 106" cinewhite tensioned screen. Even with a bit of ambient light, I had to switch to low lamp mode, as I thought the image was too bright at that distance in full mode.

Quote:
Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2
The video delay on the Epson 6100 is about the fastest on the planet. It's been measured at 16ms. Any faster and you'd need to hook up a 1985 CRT on the wall

I'm a hardcore gamer, this projector was bought explicitly for its video lag speed. If you're having issues, then something must be terribly wrong. Have you got any noise reduction or any other video features turned on? 2:2 pull-down enabled for Blu-rays?

We can talk about this, I'm very well versed in this. I'm obsessed with it!

Thanks for your feedback. I am not having issues other than lipsync, but with TV I guess we are at the mercy of the broadcasters sometimes which may be why it rarely seems right. Now, thanks to you, I know that if I set to a measured figure of (only) 16ms, I should be correct most of the time. I can't wait to try it and will get back to the forum/you with my findings.

I am intrigued how you came by that 16ms figure. I was only using guesswork and info. from a recent magazine article on the topic. It suggested figures like 120ms were generally necessary. I tried that but it clearly seemed way off. I was better off turning off the sound and lip reading

I don't know why Epson are secretive about a figure, especially as theirs is excellent. I realise any figure will vary depending on settings e.g. level of noise reduction, and connection ( HDMI or VGA), but I would have thought they could supply a range of figures."





Ok. I have tried 16ms audio delay with digital TV and it is very good-- certainly better than before and no distracting lip-sync problem, so it must be close. However, if I pay strict attention it doesn't seem spot-on either. I will adjust in 5ms increments over the next few days and report.




OK. for me 27ms seems the best average. That is for HDTV via HDMI i.e. all digital.

27ms also seems OK for playback of HDTV from computer using analog component to the projector PC input, and that surprises me (what with the extra analog to digital processing involved in the projector.) I have the playback software set to zero audio delay.

Well... here's my report.

The unit I received was brand new, or the world's greatest refurb.

Same here - new. I was even approved for keeping the new remote that came with it and sent only the CD, power cord and manuals back! Now that's service!

-the pixel convergence is awesome! Much better than my last.

Sorry to ask, but how do you check that?

Am still in awe regarding this unit, and I came from an Infocus 7205. There is no comparison regarding image quality, noise level, and ease of room setup. Yeah, the horizontal/vertical knobs are a bit cheesy, but they work fine.

Thanks

For convergence checking, pull up the menu screen and put your nose up to the screen! See the white lines on black background (text or borders)? Are they really white or do they have red, green or blue bleeding off them? That's your convergence. On my projector, on a vertical white line on black, there's a green pixel shift to the left. Horizontal is flawless. It can and does get much worse, but anyway it's not visible at seating distance.

There is usually purple fringing (almost always) on whites because of the lens itself. I even see that at the movies where it's analog film, or even on photographs.

My 6100 update:

My new projector definitely defocuses in some capacity. It takes 30 minutes or so to get "sharp" but it gets there without me touching it. This I can tolerate because of the other strengths of the projector, but I wouldn't consider the issue fixed by any means. Oh well. Just don't show off the projector until at least 30 minutes! *sigh*

Thanks for the info tommyv2. I hope you can get your focus issue straightened out.

Just ordered my 6100 from HHGregg, moving up from an Epson Home Cinema 500.

Does the 6100 come with a cable cover ?

I see it in the parts list (#V12H003002) and available separately from several vendors. The home cinema 500 came with one...

First, how far away is the projector from the screen? Second, where was the ambient light coming from/pointing at and what color walls do you have? All this stuff impacts the "pop" of the image, even before calibration is considered. Then, what color mode were you in? In complete light control, I use Theater Black 2 (which I tweaked a bit with DVE), but with ambient light (for sports, etc.), I use "natural", which looks a little richer/vibrant when I have some lights on. Finally, what are you comparing it to? If you are coming from an uncalibrated LCD, for example, the epson may look relatively dull (though more accurate). Oh, and it takes about 5 minutes for the projector to reach a steady state, so it will be dim upon startup.

I have the 6100 mounted 13' from a 106" cinewhite tensioned screen. Even with a bit of ambient light, I had to switch to low lamp mode, as I thought the image was too bright at that distance in full mode.

The projector is about 14' away (tabletop). I was planning on ceiling mounting it maybe about 12' away but can install it closer if that is helpful....

The walls are off white, the carpet is a very light berber and the ceiling is bright white....

I am comparing the picture to our 42" 120 hz vizio. I understand your comment on accuracy.

I actually fiddled with a few different color mode settings.

I am very receptive (and appreciative) regarding any thoughts / suggestions on wall color, etc. I will also be experimenting with some of the finer settings and buying / hooking up a blu ray this weekend.

Thanks again.

Just ordered my 6100 from HHGregg, moving up from an Epson Home Cinema 500.

Does the 6100 come with a cable cover ?

I see it in the parts list (#V12H003002) and available separately from several vendors. The home cinema 500 came with one...

Did you get it for the sale price of 1599 they had the week before last?

Did you get it for the sale price of 1599 they had the week before last?

No, unfortunately I missed the boat on that price. The current price is 1709. I realize CEDIA is coming up and the price will probably drop, but the $100+Lamp rebate offer ends 9/13 so I went ahead and pulled the trigger.

So does anyone know if it comes with the cable cover?

No cable cover came with mine - it is listed in the manual under optional accessories

No cable cover came with mine - it is listed in the manual under optional accessories

Thanks. Ordered one from VisualApex $49. The Epson site doesn't list them.

I wanted to have it in hand before I mount the projector to make sure I have room. Now hopefully the new mount isn't too far off from where the current one is, I am hoping I put enough framing in the ceiling. Would hate to have to end up doing drywall work just to put in a new projector....

For convergence checking, pull up the menu screen and put your nose up to the screen! See the white lines on black background (text or borders)? Are they really white or do they have red, green or blue bleeding off them? That's your convergence. On my projector, on a vertical white line on black, there's a green pixel shift to the left. Horizontal is flawless. It can and does get much worse, but anyway it's not visible at seating distance.

There is usually purple fringing (almost always) on whites because of the lens itself. I even see that at the movies where it's analog film, or even on photographs.

Yeah, I've got a pixel shift of green too and of course there is the purple fringing. I'm going to see if there is a way in the menu to work with convergence. Doesn't really seem to matter though, colors and sharpness is excellent.

Another update on my 6100 exchange:

This projector is holding its focus after 20 or so minutes of warming up. It's not even tragic at boot-up, and I've got to the point of not even adjusting the focus at any point, since after 20 minutes it's flawless and stays that way.

Overall I'm happy I think. The convergence and color uniformity is fantastic. I would actually be nervous getting this one replaced for fear of a worse one coming back. :)

Looking into purchasing this projector but curious to know if the 60hz as opposed to the 6500ub 120hz will make a big difference. I will be playing xbox 360 and PS3 games on here as well as watching primarily HD content. Definitely want to purchase this projector but just need a little assitance.

Bailey, FYI:

1) There is no 120hz gaming, period. (PC tricks excluded) There is no 120hz input standard. There won't be for ages, long after your projector dies. And since 120hz requires more processing power at the projector level...
2) ...the 6100 is much faster in display lag than the 6500. No contest. For gaming there is no comparison. The 6100 is stupid-fast.
3) It all comes down to how much more you like the 6500 image quality over the 6100. The 6500 has better blacks and more contrast, but not obnoxiously so. I do primarily gaming, so choosing the 6100 was a very easy choice.

ok i searched this thread but couldnt find anyone else with the same problem.

the focus on my unit is good. takes maybe 10-15 minutes to warm up and get completely in focus. but i'm fine with that. my problem though is the positioning on the image on the screen. It will drift down (and sometimes to the side) all on it's own, over time.

nothing drastic. but maybe 1/8 an inch a day. and i think it mostly happens when the unit is turned off / on. or when i change inputs and the lens is shifting. like whatever holds the lens in place isn't tight enough, and the vibrations from focusing cause it to slip.

is this normal? should i be having to adjust the positioning every few days? is there a way to tighten it down and lock in place once i get it set? i've had it since December of last year and it's always done it. i have no idea why i havent tried to fix it before now. it's probably out of epson's warranty, but i did get the best buy extended service plan. should i look at getting it fixed?

You have a 2 year warranty with Epson. Call their support and they will overnight one to you , no charge.You can get the support number on Epsons website. I hope this help you.

Well after about 750 hours on the 6100, all of a sudden one day the light output was very dim one day, maybe 1/3 or 1/4 of the regular light output. I've tested the HDMI and PC ports and it's the same on both. I've tried putting it on dynamic/living room, high brightness control, auto iris off, etc but nothing seems to be changing it. Has this happened to anyone?

Edit: called Epson and they said it was probably the ballast. I should be getting a new one on Tuesday :)

The main problem I have found with the Epsons is that the image shifting is overly touchy - the slightest movement and it jumps all over the place. I really hope they either go motorized or have something that can actually lock it in place in future products.

well i did call them today about my lens shift drifting problem and they were great. they didnt give me any hassle at all. i got transfered a few times, but after about 20 minutes on the phone they are sending me a brand new replacement unit.

they did say that the focus problem is the most common, that he hadnt heard of my problem before. but i did get it right as it was released. so maybe that's why.

Another 6100 update:

Bah! 35 hours in on my second one...

-On a black screen, the top left corner of my display is now reddish. I can see it, and it bothers me. Every colour tests perfect, even white. On black, however, it's reddish.
-Now the projector is making a high-pitched whine constantly, no matter how faint.

I'm gonna be calling it in. I'm pretty mad at this point...

Be aware that color uniformity is an LCD issue. There's a chance it may be visible on any replacement to a certain extent. How noticable is it? Can you live with it?

Colour uniformity on BLACK is where I draw the line! haha. It's not very noticeable, but I know it's there. I feel it's entirely visible on black letterboxing while watching a movie.

The high-pitched whine is more annoying, though, and it's more of a deal breaker.

Does it sound more like a fan whine or another type noise?

Still really liking my 6100.
No Focus ,sound,or color issues of any kind so far.
I've got about 100 hours on it.Purchased the cable cover from VisualApex which really finished off the look of the unit.
Very pleased with this purchase.
Noticed this morning that Epson had dropped their price to 1599 on their website.

Yep, they had to do it with the new 1080p coming out next month for 1599 also. And some of the sites are already dropping the price. No rebate offer now though that I can find, but if the price doesn't drop any more there will probably be a better rebate offer next month than the 100 dollar for the new epson 8100.

HHGregg just credited me the difference, since their price dropped. And since I bought before the rebate ended and already sent in the form, hopefully i'll be getting that too.

It's not a fan whine I'm hearing, it's very high-pitched. Also, the corner redness on the black screens is enough for me. I'm calling it in tomorrow. Hopefully third time's the charm...

http://www.tommyzor.com/epson.jpg

I'm looking at this PJ and have a question about mounting it.

Ceiling height: 7'8"
Screen size: 120" 16:9 (Top of screen viewing area is 6" from ceiling.)
Screen gain: 1.1
Room length: 18.75'
Ambient lighting: None. Light controlled, dedicated HT.

What would be the ideal mounting distance? Projectorcentral.com's calculator lists 16' with 1.57x zoom, but that drops to 1.38x zoom at 18'1" back, which would be my ideal mounting location (shelf rather than ceiling mount). It looks like this PJ and my room needs would work very well together. Are my numbers correct? This seems too good to be true.

If my numbers are correct, how close to the 7'8" ceiling would I need to place the shelf?

Their projection calculator is pretty accurate. You should be fine at either location. Also you can put it as close to the ceiling as you want. The lens shift has you covered. You can shift almost an entire screen height down (96.3%).

So I called it in. They're sending me a "new" one. We'll see how that goes. I really don't have the best luck with these things. Mind you, customer service has been excellent thus far... If I'm forced to get a 4th one, I will go crazy, though.

Brand new 6100 owner here. I got to play with it for about 2 hours last night. I was projecting onto a tan wall with a trimmed basement window at the top that I threw a white pillow in and I was impressed.

I actually looked for defocusing, didn't see any. Knock on wood it stays that way.

I'm at a 6hr class today. Hopefully we get out of here soon enough I can get some type of screen setup

Tommy - was the noise you heard present during all color modes and lamp power modes? I just noticed with this one there is this annoying hum or buzz like you get when it is in dynamic mode, but it is present even on TB1 with low lamp power.

My high-pitched whine is there on every mode. It's harder to hear on hotter modes because of the fan noise, of course. I only ever use it on low lamp. My first 6100 didn't have it, and neither did this one until... 25 hours in? It's really quite annoying, especially since I have excellent hearing.

I didn't get my new one today, I guess it'll be tomorrow. I'm both excited and nervous...

I currently own the Epson 1080. I have been keeping an eye out for a 1080ub but they seem to be hard to find lately. I want the 6500ub but it is still a bit out of my price range. I came across a decent deal on a 6100 and I am considering it. It should be a nice upgrade from the 1080. The 6100 is brighter which will help with my long throw. It also has controls for each RGBYCM brightness level which the 1080 does not. I didn't find that out until I calibrated my 1080. I also didn't find out until after I owned the 1080 that it displays a 1080p/24 signal at 1080p/60.

Anyway, I have one simple question. Does the 6100 accept and DISPLAY a 24hz signal? I read the manual it appears that it does at 48hz. I want to make sure because I believed the 1080 did as well but I found out later that wasn't true.

I currently own the Epson 1080. I have been keeping an eye out for a 1080ub but they seem to be hard to find lately. I want the 6500ub but it is still a bit out of my price range. I came across a decent deal on a 6100 and I am considering it. It should be a nice upgrade from the 1080. The 6100 is brighter which will help with my long throw. It also has controls for each RGBYCM brightness level which the 1080 does not. I didn't find that out until I calibrated my 1080. I also didn't find out until after I owned the 1080 that it displays a 1080p/24 signal at 1080p/60.

Anyway, I have one simple question. Does the 6100 accept and DISPLAY a 24hz signal? I read the manual it appears that it does at 48hz. I want to make sure because I believed the 1080 did as well but I found out later that wasn't true.

It definitely does accept and display a 24hz signal. I think you'll find the 6100 to be a fine upgrade from the 1080.

It definitely does accept and display a 24hz signal. I think you'll find the 6100 to be a fine upgrade from the 1080.

Thanks Kilgore.

I think it will be enough of an upgrade to justify the hassle. I have less than 300 hours on my 1080 so I should be able to get a decent amount for it. I figured now was a good time to sell the 1080 before Epson releases the new models.

You would think as epson did just drop the price. But there is a good chance there will be a rebate for it starting next month as there has been in the past, because the new 1080p in this class will be the same price, not enough of an incentive to not go for the new model if there isn't a rebate to go along with the price drop on this one.

You would think as epson did just drop the price. But there is a good chance there will be a rebate for it starting next month as there has been in the past, because the new 1080p in this class will be the same price, not enough of an incentive to not go for the new model if there isn't a rebate to go along with the price drop on this one.

I assume Epson just dropped the price because the new model is being released shortly. What is the new model going to list for?

1599, with a 100 dollar mail in rebate. On paper at least the specs look slightly better on the upcoming model, but who knows what actual testing will produce. This one is now 1599 at many places, used to be at least 1800-2000 a few weeks ago. Often the rebate for this model has been 300 dollar plus a free lamp.

WEllll..... I just got my third 6100. Surprise! It's junk! The pixel convergence is pretty bad, and --what's this?-- it's much less bright than my current 6100? Boo! Back it goes.

They're sending me a 4th one. I'm glad I have time for this, because it's starting to get on my nerves... :mad:

WEllll..... I just got my third 6100. Surprise! It's junk! The pixel convergence is pretty bad, and --what's this?-- it's much less bright than my current 6100? Boo! Back it goes.

They're sending me a 4th one. I'm glad I have time for this, because it's starting to get on my nerves... :mad:

Part of the reason I don't want to return the one i have. I'm on #2 with the first one having the focus issue. The one i currently have still has a little defocus on start up but i'm willing to wait the 10 minutes before everything gets into focus.

WEllll..... I just got my third 6100. Surprise! It's junk! The pixel convergence is pretty bad, and --what's this?-- it's much less bright than my current 6100? Boo! Back it goes.

They're sending me a 4th one. I'm glad I have time for this, because it's starting to get on my nerves... :mad:

Consider yourself lucky you went with an Epson. Most companies would tell you to go stuff it after the first replacement.....assuming they replace it in the first place.

And look at it this way...even while you send one back you still get to hold onto the other until the new one arrives. What other company lets you do that?

I think you should grateful you went with Epson. Once they straighten out your problems (which they WILL do), you'l love it.

hi guys just installed my epson 6100 very sharp, quiet and great picture. However I am less than impressed with the blacks, nowhere as good as a plasma.

All detail tends to disappear in the dark scenes and I have to strain my eyes to make out any details..

This is my first projector so I dont have anything to compare with.

I have not set my room up yet and am just projecting onto a painted wall.

Will it improve when I get my screen?
Could the projector be faulty?
Can I adjust the image settings?

I have tried all the color modes with no luck... Im not happy it will be going back if I cannot fix...

@gf1966:

Try changing your gamma setting to 2.0. It helps bring out some details in dark scenes. You can also custom configure it, but 2.0 seems to be a good spot.

...and as for Epson's customer service - it's excellent. My experience, if anything, proves how good they are about customer satisfaction. I'm jinxed with electronics, so unless it's perfect at first, I have to go through many units to get a good one. It's the same reason I buy Dell monitors - it took me 5 replacement 2408WFPs, but I got a good one in the end. I will buy another, so they kept a customer. Same with Epson.

Well I just jump on the 6100 bandwagon.The deal was pretty good with the price drop.And I am tired of waiting for the next best thing.At this price no big deal.I just hope it out performs my trusty old ax200 panny 720.It will be hear friday and I have movie night that night for the grandkids'All boys.Thinking about BD Iron man and the new Raiders of the lost ark.Any quick settings tips to get up and running would be apperciated.Using a 110in Carada bw screen in a dark basement.Thanks

I happened into the local "Buy More" today and saw the new pricing so I thought I'd ask and there was only one available in all of Northern VA, but happened to be about 5 miles away. I drove over to pick it up and it is was an open box retun. So, long story short, I got another $300 off AND they let me use a 10% off coupon on top of that. So, not bad for under 12 bills. I figure I will put it on a ladder under my ceiling mount and compare it to my AE900 (hopefully there will be no comparison) and check it out. Even if there is somehting wrong, I figure I got a great deal as I know how good Epson's Cust. Svc. is (former Home 10+ owner in '05). I just hope it was not returned with a bunch of hours on the lamp.

I have been around and around on a new projector- hopefully this ends it. However, I will take this weekend to evaluate. It is great to be able to do that (rare in buying budget projectors and an upside to the fact it has already been opened and "used".)

I watched 5 movies on mine so far. I'm in love. I know there's way better pjs out there but man I'm glad I got 6100.

Some people complain about the noise, I sat in my back row about 2ft away with the lamp on high and dynamic iris on high and never heard it throughout 3 movies. I'm not looking for it but goes to show it definately doesn't bother me. I still need a screen, still figuring that one out.

I just ordered the mount from mountdirect. Hopefully it works out. I'll let you know. Tomorrow is another movie night. I'm picking up The International on BD. I'll try to get some pics of it in action with my subpar photography skills.

Way better? Nah, trust me most people would be surprised that they don't notice a whole lot better with a 10 grand projector. Unless you are an expert of course, or maybe watching a very dark movie. I wouldn't call the 6100 a budget projector, more like midrange.

I did set up the 6100 and it definitely blows my Panny 900 away. I was even able to rig up a side by side comparison by turning on both and alterntely covering the lens from one to the other and there are a ton of areas that the 6100 kills in, as it should against a 3 year old 720p unit, but it is still nice to see a huge difference.

I am especially impressed by its performance with SD DVDs (upconverted by the Qdeo chip in my player), which is a plus I had not expected- much cleaner and less noise. It may not be the WOW i got from my first PJ, but it was enjoyable enough that I sat up until 2AM playing with it.

I did find one interesting thing: my player is an LG BH200 and it will output a 1080/24 signal even on SD DVD- at least it will on my Panny when set to "auto" resolution, where it is supposed to get the best format from the PJ. On my Panny, it looks noticeably better than either 720 or 1080, even though the Panny is a 720 PJ, it accepts 1080/24 (not 1080/60). The Epson will not do 1080/24 on SD DVD for some reason, just 1080/60.

As you can see from my opening statement, it does an excellent job anyway, but I am wondering why it only does 1080/24 from BD from my player. I am also not sure it matters. Is this just the player/PJ combination?

I happened into the local "Buy More" today and saw the new pricing so I thought I'd ask and there was only one available in all of Northern VA, but happened to be about 5 miles away. I drove over to pick it up and it is was an open box retun. So, long story short, I got another $300 off AND they let me use a 10% off coupon on top of that. So, not bad for under 12 bills. I figure I will put it on a ladder under my ceiling mount and compare it to my AE900 (hopefully there will be no comparison) and check it out. Even if there is somehting wrong, I figure I got a great deal as I know how good Epson's Cust. Svc. is (former Home 10+ owner in '05). I just hope it was not returned with a bunch of hours on the lamp.

I have been around and around on a new projector- hopefully this ends it. However, I will take this weekend to evaluate. It is great to be able to do that (rare in buying budget projectors and an upside to the fact it has already been opened and "used".)

I found a bit more info in the box. Apparently, it was sent to Epson by Best Buy and came back with a new lamp (work order in the box and a bunch of extra packing material) so it had 0 hours on the lamp. I guess that explains why the box was roughed up a bit and had several stickers on it. I am not understanding how that happened as I wouldn't have thought BB would send a unit for repair, but for less than $1200 and a full warranty, I guess I shouldn't care.

I also checked all of the areas I know to- stuck/dead pixels, convergence, focus drift, color uniformity and it appears none are there at least during about 5 hours I spent with it last night...

I did set up the 6100 and it definitely blows my Panny 900 away. I was even able to rig up a side by side comparison by turning on both and alterntely covering the lens from one to the other and there are a ton of areas that the 6100 kills in, as it should against a 3 year old 720p unit, but it is still nice to see a huge difference.

I am especially impressed by its performance with SD DVDs (upconverted by the Qdeo chip in my player), which is a plus I had not expected- much cleaner and less noise. It may not be the WOW i got from my first PJ, but it was enjoyable enough that I sat up until 2AM playing with it.

I did find one interesting thing: my player is an LG BH200 and it will output a 1080/24 signal even on SD DVD- at least it will on my Panny when set to "auto" resolution, where it is supposed to get the best format from the PJ. On my Panny, it looks noticeably better than either 720 or 1080, even though the Panny is a 720 PJ, it accepts 1080/24 (not 1080/60). The Epson will not do 1080/24 on SD DVD for some reason, just 1080/60.

As you can see from my opening statement, it does an excellent job anyway, but I am wondering why it only does 1080/24 from BD from my player. I am also not sure it matters. Is this just the player/PJ combination?

Strange that it doesn't display sd dvds at 1080p/24. I have to assume your player isn't outputting 1080p/24 on sd dvds anymore. Check your settings in the player. If your player is set to output 24 fps on SD DVD then the Epson should display it. The Epson doesn't know that it's a sd dvd it only knows the resolution being sent to it. This sounds like an HDMI auto setting issue.

I could be wrong of course. I don't own a 6100 yet but I have seen this type of issue with other displays.

Well, I got my 4th 6100 today! Guess what?

...
...
...it's perfect! Haha. I'm happy. Convergence is amazing (like my second one) and perfect uniformity and no high-pitched noise. Assuming the serial numbers are sequential, it's actually older than the last two ones that I got, although brand new.

As you can see from my opening statement, it does an excellent job anyway, but I am wondering why it only does 1080/24 from BD from my player. I am also not sure it matters. Is this just the player/PJ combination?

Just a guess, but did you enable the 2:2 pulldown on the 6100?

Just a guess, but did you enable the 2:2 pulldown on the 6100?

I'll see if that does anything. Where is it in the menus?

I'll see if that does anything. Where is it in the menus?

can't remember exactly, but it shouldn't be too hard to find

UPS drop off my 6100 today.Just got it and running.Using PR settings by Art.After 2 years with the ax200.This is by far a upgrade.The sharpness alone is just killer.Colors are great also.Alot more 3d looking due to the better blacks.For the price what a deal.All seems fine with the fp.No focusing issues or anything else.Can't wait for the movies to start.Showing IJ Crystal skull and Iron man in BD.

I scanned a few threads and searched but can't seem to find if there is an advanced menu/setup screen so we can change our own convergence. Is there a way or is there no 'factory menu' like Sanyo?