I am planning my riser right now to try and get it built within the next 2-3 weeks. I have searched around and gotten a few tips. If anyone can post a few here that wuold be great. I have a rectangular room with the entrance in the middle back. I was planning on walking in on the riser. I was also planning to attach the back and sides of the riser to the existing wall. I am not planning on buttkickers, but may have a sub sitting on the riser (I may move it to the front later). I was planning on 2x12's for joists and 3/4" floor board on top of that. The 2x12's wil be sitting on an existing 2nd story ply floor. I have seen using roofing felt between 2 layers of ply (cant use 2 layers), but would it be beneficial to put it between the joists and existing floor or the joists and the riser floor? Does the entire space between the joists need to be fiiled with insulation?

The riser is going to be rectangular, except for 2 steps on the front two sides. Was planning on making the steps 18" depth. Any tips on steps? I was thinking of 2x4's for joists on steps with 2x12 and 2x6 laying flat for step. I guess I would have to round off the edge of the 2x12 for the front of the step, seems kinda thick for a router. I'm just so confused. I guess I could use 2x6 joists and 3/4" floor board for the step and round the end of that. Can you route floor boards smoothly?

I'm just looking for anything that I want to make sure to do or not do. Anything someone wish they did or tried and it screwed everything up. I started my HT rebuild several months ago and have a good bit done. I took before pics, but forgot to take much while doing some of the construction. I am going to be taking more and hopefullly start up a thread for any critiques or suggestions here pretty soon.

Typically you want to leave a small gap between the riser and the walls whenever you have a sub or butt kickers, but I believe if you do that you should also try to isolate it from the floor by using something like Acoustic Mat from www.soundcompany.com or others. I'm sure they will have an opinion as well.

You do have to fill it with insulation otherwise it will act like a drum. You do not have to stuff it full but you should shoot for at least 50% or more.

I used Dennis's model of putting in some floor registers in the rear corners to open up some of the space in the riser to act as a bass absorber/pressure reducer.

More importantly, I recommend that you find a way to beef up the top with multiple layers. Typically, a sandwich of 3/4"-1/2"-3/4" plywood is used. It makes for an exceptionally sturdy riser. I used green glue in between my layers because I had some left over but a lot of guys use roofing paper in between instead.

Most importantly, search for risers and read all you can. You'll find contradictory statements but in the end you'll figure out what is best for your particular situation.

Best of Luck. Bud

Top the steps with built-up plywood as well... assuming you will be covering them with carpet. As I mentioned, my riser top is 2" thick, but I have one long "step" that is built from 2 layers of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x5's (I ripped a 2x6 to get the height I needed).

One thing that I have seen multiple times is using something like 2x12's for the frame of the riser and then using small pieces (2x4, 2x8's etc) for the joists between using joist hangers. I don't understand the purpose of that. Is it solely a cost thing (I have not priced the lumber yet) or is there another reason for this? It just seems like more work, rather than just using all 2x12's.

It's mainly for cost. There's no need to have the larger lumber for joists if you don't have to. Another reason some members have found is that they can use larger members (yes, i just said larger members) for the perimeter that are pressure treated and use non-PT lumber for the joists if they're smaller (2x12 vs. 2x10).

Personally, If i did a 2x12 framer, I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 2x6 for the joists. Larger lumber is necessary for larger spans. If your joists aren't spanning that far, you can get by with smaller and cheaper wood.

One thing that I have seen multiple times is using something like 2x12's for the frame of the riser and then using small pieces (2x4, 2x8's etc) for the joists between using joist hangers. I don't understand the purpose of that. Is it solely a cost thing (I have not priced the lumber yet) or is there another reason for this? It just seems like more work, rather than just using all 2x12's.

I had to go with a 16" riser, so I had to stack a 2x4 on top of the 2x12... having to do that for each joist would have been painful. So I went with 2x8s in hangers.

Beyond saving $, it is easier to carry 2x6s or 2x8s from the truck to the HT... 2x12s are a beast :)

What could be the height between each rise, If we want to give two rows of seating.

Do we need to take 8'' from one row to another:confused: ? or ?

Check out the thread I started on basic riser and stage construction. There are a lot of the same questions that you may have.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14760825&posted=1#post14760825


Also check out my construction thread (i believe page 4 - post # 114) which has the same questions answered by someone else).