Will I be ok using the same circuit for my projector and my lights? Specifically, 10 small spots controlled by a Lutron Maestro. There is an existing wiring run to where the projector will be ceiling mounted from the wall switch. I need to make this run always hot, and then install the new Lutron switch and fish the wire to the pots.

It is not ideal.

Most people around here will have a dedicated 15-20 amp breaker for their projector -- unlike most TVs, if the power goes out on a projector suddenly the fan can't cool the bulb and it dramatically shortens its life. You also have to consider the possibilities of power surges, dips, etc.

I fail to see the need for a 20 (or 15) amp breaker for something that consumes 252W. Seems like serious overkill. I do understand the need for a UPS (I will deal with that in the future).

So, any other thoughts?

If you're going to have a line-interactive UPS, then your only two questions are:
1. Will that overload the circuit (unlikely, since the lights and PJ are "substitute goods" in the economic sense: when one's on, the other is probably off)
2. Will the dimmer put garbage onto the line that your UPS won't be able to filter out? (Again, unlikely.)

Me? I'm running a CRT PJ (startup juice well over 250 W, and I frequently turn it on with the lights still on [to warm up, not to view images]) so I'm running a dedicated circuit to the PJ. It's probably not warranted in your case (and might not be in mine either, but it was so easy, I did.)

That is exactly what I was thinking, too.

Advice on how to wire it? I am thinking wire comes into box, then is pigtailed. One set goes to outlet for PJ, the other connects to the Lutron and goes out to pots. Or, can I just connect the PJ wires to the live side of the switch? I need to look at that switch...

If you have room in the box (there are code requirements about how many wire nuts may be in boxes of a certain size, etc), then you can just tap the PJ power feed off the live wires in the switch box.

Don't make the connection on the switch itself, even for the grounds (I've seen that done). You have to use pigtails, both by code and by good safety practice. It might seem unnecessary, but please do it anyway.

Make sure you don't mix wire sizes (if you've got 14ga now, stay with that and a 15A circuit; if you've got 12ga now, stay with that and either a 15 or 20 A circuit).

I'm always a little reluctant to offer DIY electrical advice (I'm just a pretty hard-core DIY myself), as I don't know what you know; if you're asking questions to be extra cautious or if you're asking because you're totally clueless and an electrical fire looking for a location to start. (Please don't take that the wrong way.) If you're unsure, grab a buddy who knows something about it and/or research until you are sure. If you can't get sure, hire a pro.

No, I ask questions because I like to know every possibility. I have done lots of wiring, and I always try and keep to code, even if I know non-code can be "safe". My house is only four years old, and it was custom built. The electrical is done very nicely, with 200A service. I matched my bulk wire I bought for the theater to the existing gauge.

I am about to wire up a generator transfer switch to power my house in event of a sustained power outage (I'm out in the country on well and sump). Just need to decide if the theater gets power :)

I will stick to my plan of pigtails. I might have to go with a double wide box because I know that dimmer is deep.

I have a single circuit that I use for lights and the PJ....no issues. Just make sure the load is within the circuits abilities. No UPS yet, I may just get one of those fireplace hand air blowers for a power outage :-)

I also ran a generator inlet, but excluded the HT (the rack would have required 5K by itself!) Included a TV upstairs, however.

(there are code requirements about how many wire nuts may be in boxes of a certain size, etc)


there is no code requirement that limits the number of splices in a junction box. However there is a quantity limit and size of current carrying conductors in a junction box (NEC 314.16)