Well after 3 months I finally broke out the Avia disc to do a basic DIY calibration on my Panasonic 800U series plasma.

Previously I had gone with settings recommended in the CNET Review on the 50" model and what other 800U owners were posting and chose the one I like best (which was in case anyone is interested: THX Mode, Picture=80, Brightness=56, Color=49, Tint=0, Sharp=50, all special filters=OFF, Color temp=normal [best temp would be right between normal and warm though])

The Avia disc indicated my color was way to low, needed to go up to high 50's for the saturation test, Hue was right on though (I guess one of the benefits of the THX mode). It indicated the brightness was too high during the Black level test, but even at 56 I think THX mode is too dark for all but dark nighttime viewing, although 56 got us by for moderate-light daytime viewing.

I also calibrated the Custom Mode which is brighter than THX mode by default. In this mode, Brightness only had to be at 45 for the black level test (Picture at 80) and color only had to be at 45. But boy, after the calibration, the colors looked oversaturated to me - but that could just be as a result of being used to watching undersaturated pictures with THX mode set to color=49.

Now forgetting about my particular TV for the moment, in general, is the 6-year old Avia DVD with the red/blue/green color filters still an adequate tool to use for a very basic DIY calibration on these new plasma TV's? Seems to me I need to use it and then tweak everything a little to personal preference. On my HD RPTV I was happy with the results without tweaking to personal preference so that's why I'm wondering if this is too outdated.

Is there a Blue-Ray version and would that do a better job?

Catching up here.

I think THX mode is too dark for all but dark nighttime viewing

That is exactly what THX mode is designed for.

That is exactly what THX mode is designed for.

Ya I get that. But if I had a $5 for every post from a newbie owner in this thread and the other 800u thread that complained about THX mode being too dark, I could buy a second TV.

Televisions, regardless of type (and what marketing people say), must be viewed in a light controlled environment. Anything else is a compromise.
If you're losing details in the dark area of the picture because of ambient light, raise the brightness control.
Tip: Use a high APL pattern from the Avia disc to set black level.

BTW, setting your picture control to 80 is rather high. With that much light coming off the screen, it will make seeing darker areas within the frame much more difficult to see.
THX defaults to 55, I believe.

Is there a Blue-Ray version and would that do a better job?


I was actually wondering this myself. No one has specifically answered this question yet in this thread, perhaps someone can? What is the current best and up to date disc for DIY calibration? (without colorimeter and such equipment).

So far my research has brought me to either Avia or DVE discs. Are these two still the best, and is one preferred over the other?

I would invest in Avia II if I were you.....I'm gonna say that the original Avia will still be useable but just keep in mind that at the time it was produced, lcd and plasma were just mentioned in passing as "technologies of the future";)

I was actually wondering this myself. No one has specifically answered this question yet in this thread, perhaps someone can? What is the current best and up to date disc for DIY calibration? (without colorimeter and such equipment).

So far my research has brought me to either Avia or DVE discs. Are these two still the best, and is one preferred over the other?
For SD my absolute favorite is GetGray

DVE is a great disc too. All the discs will get you good results. Many professionals, as well as DIY'ers, have their own preference, especially with regards to menu structures.

Thanks for the responses guys. I will consider Avia II and DVE, and look into GetGray.

Perhaps I could elaborate on my question(s). I will be wanting to calibrate a new 52" LCD, as well as a future front projector (in a few months, possibly). So, that brings me to a few questions:

1. How "close" to a "perfect" calibration does Avia II or DVE get one? Are we talking 95% there, or more or less?

2. Is entering service menu's absolutely necessary to get a "good" calibration? I realize professionals will do this, but are we just achieving that extra 2%?

3. Is using a colorimeter necessary for a "good" calibration? Again, is this just to squeeze out that last 2% better calibration?

I guess what I'm getting at, is that I'd like to get a "good" calibration for my display's, with the least trouble/time/money possible. So obviously, I have to define what "good" is. I would say that if I'm 90-95% or more calibrated to what a professional would do, that's good enough for me. Hence, all of the questions about what's really necessary to achieve this.

If a DIY calibration with Avia or DVE only gets me say 50% or even 75% of a "perfect" calibration, then I will consider additional measures.

I realize that professional's will say that all of this is necessary for a proper calibration (my definition of "perfect" above), but for the average Joe (that's me) who isn't really interested in spending hundreds for that perfect picture, I'm curious how close a DIY can get me, and what's necessary to do it.

Thanks for the responses guys. I will consider Avia II and DVE, and look into GetGray.

Perhaps I could elaborate on my question(s). I will be wanting to calibrate a new 52" LCD, as well as a future front projector (in a few months, possibly). So, that brings me to a few questions:

1. How "close" to a "perfect" calibration does Avia II or DVE get one? Are we talking 95% there, or more or less?


Depends on the display... could be 50%, could be 80%

2. Is entering service menu's absolutely necessary to get a "good" calibration? I realize professionals will do this, but are we just achieving that extra 2%?

Again, it all depends on the display. More and more, controls are now available in the user menu.

3. Is using a colorimeter necessary for a "good" calibration? Again, is this just to squeeze out that last 2% better calibration?


Yes. Essential for gray scale adjustment. It is also required if there are CMS or CCA adjustments.

I guess what I'm getting at, is that I'd like to get a "good" calibration for my display's, with the least trouble/time/money possible. So obviously, I have to define what "good" is. I would say that if I'm 90-95% or more calibrated to what a professional would do, that's good enough for me. Hence, all of the questions about what's really necessary to achieve this.

If a DIY calibration with Avia or DVE only gets me say 50% or even 75% of a "perfect" calibration, then I will consider additional measures.

I realize that professional's will say that all of this is necessary for a proper calibration (my definition of "perfect" above), but for the average Joe (that's me) who isn't really interested in spending hundreds for that perfect picture, I'm curious how close a DIY can get me, and what's necessary to do it.

Sounds like you answered your own question! :D

Thanks for the response Lee. I'm not entirely sure I answered my own question though. I do realize that a purist who wants a perfect calibration will need to do all of the above, and probably pay a professional to do it (or spend a lot of time learning himself). As I said though, I'm not particularly interested in putting that much effort into it, and what is needed for a "proper" calibration wasn't my question.

My real question was how close I could come to that "perfect" calibration simply by using the user menu's without additional equipment other than a calibration disc. You certainly gave me some insight on that, which I had none previously.

Both my display's will be newer models (Samsung LN52A630 and probably PTAE3000), so I'm hoping that I can get "close enough" without having to worry about accessing the system menu's.

I'm torn on which disc also, I'll probably get the Avia because my current DVE dvd disc is incredibly frustrating to use. The test patterns, for me, are alway a pain to get to, buried in a maze of catch-22 submenus it seems.

Part of the problem is my old laserdisc habits never died, those menus were simple, quick and easy to navigate. Dvd menus just don't make sense to me. Kind of like trying linux after using windows for years, files and folder suddenly become complicated and confusing.

Of course getting old doesn't help either. :D

Thanks for the response Lee. I'm not entirely sure I answered my own question though. I do realize that a purist who wants a perfect calibration will need to do all of the above, and probably pay a professional to do it (or spend a lot of time learning himself). As I said though, I'm not particularly interested in putting that much effort into it, and what is needed for a "proper" calibration wasn't my question.

My real question was how close I could come to that "perfect" calibration simply by using the user menu's without additional equipment other than a calibration disc. You certainly gave me some insight on that, which I had none previously.

Both my display's will be newer models (Samsung LN52A630 and probably PTAE3000), so I'm hoping that I can get "close enough" without having to worry about accessing the system menu's.

As I mentioned previously, different displays vary with regards to how "close" they will be prior to calibration. Manufacturing tolerances play a factor in this as well.
Only you can answer if you want be close enough, or if you want to be right.
Keep in mind, there is no perfect calibration, nor perfect display.

Keep in mind, there is no perfect calibration, nor perfect display.

Well said, and one of the reasons I'm willing to sacrifice my otherwise annoying habit of being an anal retentive purist.