We have an older RCA DVD recorder / VCR Combo that has component “in” but it is malfunctioning and we are having trouble watching a movie straight through. Does there exist an upconverting one out there with Component “in”? I can’t find one, all they have is S-video “in”. An older model would be fine, I just need some direction on what brands would have that.

I didn't even know they "ever" made a DVDR VCR combo with component inputs. There's the Polaroid many people speak of around here as well as a older Sony and maybe a older Philips but they're all DVDRs only, no VHS.
Definitely no newer models with that feature that's for sure. If the reason you're looking for one with component inputs is because your STB only outputs WS over component then a component to S-video converter like the Apple TV converter Nextoo wrote about might work. Plus it's supposed to have the advantage of stripping CP if that interests you. Here's a link to a thread talking about the converter.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=828063
If you got one of those then you could get any DVDR/VHS recorder with S-video inputs. Most but not all have S-video inputs.

Yeah I have an RCA that allows me to input component so I can record straight of the TV. I actually have never done that because I have a DVR from my cable company but I have wanted to record from the DVR to a DVD. I think s-video will hurt the quality. We want the VHS because my wife has old videos that the kids watch.

We have an older RCA DVD recorder / VCR Combo that has component “in” but it is malfunctioning and we are having trouble watching a movie straight through.

I don't have a RCA combo recorder. My experience is primarily with a variety of Panasonics. When Panasonic playback, record or finalization problems arise the first corrective measure is cleaning the DVD drive's hub/spindle/lens with a cotton swab that's been dipped in 91% alcohol. The rubber hub collects dust, lint or other residue that allows the spinning DVD to slip on the hub. Cleaning is needed more often in a dusty or smoking environment and if discs are handled with a finger through the center hole.

In other threads I've posted detailed advice and instructions for cleaning Panasonic DVD drives. An RCA may or may not be cleaned in the same manner.

If the front panel of a VHS equipped machine is removed be sure to hold the VHS door open as the front panel is fitted back to the case. This should correctly align the VHS door lifting mechanism.

Perhaps a RCA owner/user may post more specific advice and information.

While component input may be a good idea IMO you'll probably get better PQ using a better quality recorder with S-video input.
I don't mean to knock your RCA but I did try many different DVDRs some years back and to me anyway the PQ difference between brands were quite substantial. None of them had component inputs though but even with S-video some brands were so much better than others. To me the big advantage of component inputs would be if your STB could not output wide screen over S-video, but with something like the Apple converter that kind of nullifies that. Even though something like the Polaroid had component inputs I've never really read reviews that it's recorded picture quality was much if any better than other brands with S-video.

Since units that would have a component input are quite old now I'd be inclined to just look for a top quality DVDR with S-video and not worry about component inputs. DVDRs aren't known for that long a life so even if you were able to get a older Polaroid or Philips (DVDRs only) who knows how long it will last before having problems. They may also have problems with burning the latest 16x media.
This is just my opinion and if you really want to try and find one with component inputs then the best of luck.

Thinking about it I wonder if some of the computer tuner cards might not have component inputs? That might be a option for something new. Then with a DVD computer DVD burner you could make hard copies that way. I don't follow computer options very closely so I wouldn't be of much help on particular brands.

At least in products you could buy new, the combination of VHS-DVD-component-in doesn't exist, not even talking about upconversion.

jjeff offers an excellent summary, as always (:)): the only widely available consumer decks that had component-in were older "junk" models from Phillips, RCA and Polaroid. These units have their fans, mostly due to the component-in feature, but if it weren't for that one feature they would have been laughed off the forums immediately. They were very poorly made, with atrociously random quality control: even when still available, a buyer had to exchange them two or three times to find one that "mostly worked". You were very fortunate in finding one that worked and lasted for awhile: their track record is extremely spotty and you would likely not be as lucky buying a used one today.

You basically have three options, in order of convenience and cost:

1) see if you can replace the burner in your RCA. One of the few real advantages of these models, aside from component in, is that some of them used ordinary generic PC burners. If you are handy with electronics, try removing the burner and see if you can identify the brand. Buy a similar burner to replace it, this might work. A good clue is if the burner uses ordinary EIDE data and Molex power connections: if so, you have a shot. A new burner should cost no more than $30 (you don't need fancy extras like LightScribe).

2) see if your cable/sat box can be set to output widescreen/anamorphic via SVHS: if so, any recorder will be OK for you. There are many new affordable DVD/VHS/upconvert models to choose from. Panasonic is probably the sturdiest make this year.

3) Buy both a new recorder and the AppleTV box. Follow the tips here to set the AppleTV to convert the anamorphic component out from your cable/sat box to SVHS, and connect the AppleTV SVHS to your new recorder.

see if your cable/sat box can be set to output widescreen/anamorphic via SVHS

Both jjeff and CitiBear offer an excellent summaries, as always (:)). I think in this case CitiBear means S-Video (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S-Video) rather than S-VHS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S-VHS), but otherwise his suggestions would be the way to go.

Guys, this has been great advice, I do appreciate all of it. I like the idea of just trying to clean it from Digado, I will start there. If that does not fix, I will move to that Panasonic, are we talking about this one? Panasonic DMR-EZ48VK? I have a Samsung 50" plasma 720p, so as far as conversion goes I have heard that there might be an advantage to allowing one device to do all the converting, I will have to study that.

...the only widely available consumer decks that had component-in were older "junk" models from Phillips, RCA and Polaroid.I think there was a Samsung or two, also. I never knew that until someone here reported they had one.

There were also quite a few Sony models (which were very widely available - I have one myself), which was the only brand of the lot that didn't make "junk" recorders back then. Those are the only ones I would ever recommend looking for, if they could find one cheap in in good condition. That was back in their pre-copy protection-crazy days, also.

Oops, we often forget and take for granted the early Sonys because so much coverage of "component in" here was focused on the Wal*Mart specials like RCA, Polaroid and low-end Phillips. As Rammitinski reminds us, those earlier Sonys were built like tanks and could make superb recordings. I'm not sure if Sony ever included component inputs on a DVD/VHS combo recorder, that might have been exclusive to their DVD-only recorders, and most older units didn't have HDMI, but if you don't mind having the VHS and DVD units separate an old Sony is certainly a much better bet than any of the other old component-in recorder options. The only drawback to some of the old Sonys is limited compatibility with current (lousy) blank media, which is true of any machine aged more than a year or two. Buying Japanese TY 8x media usually solves that issue nicely.