Ok, So my last name is Payne that's what the title means, not the Motley Crue album (not that I have anything against the Crue).

As suggested I decided to create a dedicated home theater post. I am hoping to build this out now while my house is being built (scheduled to be done by March 2009). But I may have to wait some time in the future to work on it.

First here are my floor plans.
First Floor (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65094939@N00/3040578285/sizes/o/)
Basement (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65094939@N00/3040578309/sizes/o/)
Theater Design (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65094939@N00/3077214477/sizes/o/)

I originally planned on doing the HT room a few years from now and I researched it for a long time, but since this is a showcase house my builders are willing to give a discount on the cost of building one (not sure the price on that yet though). So because of this I have been doing nothing but thinking about this all day long for the past two weeks (and probably will every day from now on). I hardly get any work done during the day now. I have the plans right in front of me.... so much work... so little time.

So where do I start (yeah loaded question).
I think I would start by looking at other theaters.
My all time favorite theater and the one I would like to model after is
SandmanX (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574704)
Of course I am not handy and there is no way my accounting department (wife) will approve that P.O.
My room dimensions are pretty similar to his. Length: 21-8 1/2 X Width: 16-3 1/2 X Height: 9
I would like to enter the room from the back. Coming down the stairs from the first floor you would end up on a platform above the floor at the bottom (size and height undetermined yet). From their you would walk into the room, I imaging about 3 feet in then you would hit the back row of seats, steps going down the side of each side down to the front row of seats (lighted steps), then again steps down to the floor. on the other end I would like to have a few steps up for a stage (again just like SandmansX).

Here are some things that I would like to do. So hopefully I can figure out what I have to do now, and what things can wait to do later. So keeping that in mind, I need to make sure I do anything I can upfront so I don't screw myself in the future.

Star light ceiling - Like to have the border in blue lighting like Sandmans (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574704&page=87) (the one half way down on the page). I would like a few shooting stars and some different color stars. I also heard\seen that you can do some constellations, I think that it would be really cool to have all the family members constellations up in the sky. My son would get a kick out of it and could point it out when he is in there.
Front Stage - Big enough for the screen, speakers, motorized curtain, etc
Acoustical treatments to make the inside of the theater sound good.
Equipment rack on the back left half of the room. The front of the rack would be inside the HT, while the back will be a network closet for all my home run wiring of the whole house (noisy network equipment though that I would have to deal with).
Big comfortable chairs, motorized with butt kickers.
(This is all I can think of right now).

Things I need to find out.
Theater construction, what to start with, how it is built (again I am not handy so I will have to rely on the builders for the bulk of the work). My builders have done some home theaters, but just a regular room, no sound proofing. I know I have seen DD\GG suggestions but I am not sure how I can convey that to the builders other than saying read AVSforums.
Screen size - how big can I go, I prefer to keep it big, but I don't want it to look like crap.
Risers - position, height, distances, etc
Stage - position, screen wall, motorized curtains, etc
Speaker placement
Lighting

Wow that is a lot, basically it would be great to see a list of
Do this first, then this second, then this third, etc (if such a thing exists).
Of course cost is the biggest issue and with some of these HT I know sky is the limit. I basically want to do anything can do now that I won't be able to change in the future (well without a complete demo). So things like equipment will be lower on the list of things to get for now, these are things I can upgrade later.

I am sure I will post tons of more stuff later..... actually probably in 5 minutes since this is all I can think of. :)

Just two quick thoughts:

1) Why do you have a riser under your front seats? Is it because the speakers push the screen up? You might get a much better arrangement if you sacrifice 2' of room depth, go with an acoustically transparent screen, and put your speakers behind. Then you could lower the screen, lower both risers, and your center speaker would be dead center screen.

2) It seems like you could go with a wider screen. Have you considered a 120" x 50" 2.35:1? Many of the projectors will allow you to zoom out and get 2.35:1 at that size. Your seating distance will definitely support it.

pmeyer,

The risers were only just a thought, it doesn't matter to me really... I just like the stadium type seating.
The speakers behind the screen is an idea, I don't really know to much about that yet. I would assume then that the front stage would be bigger and the screen would be off the wall to allow the speakers to be mounted behind them?
I would like to go with the biggest screen size I can, I don't really want to do a big room like this and only have 100" screen.

Thanks for replying.

Ok, so a friend of mine had a great suggestion. Put away all the things I want and can do in the room and and come up with a priority list of the most important thing I want. So here it is in order, not that I don't think they are all important, this is just the order I would prefer.
1. Seating, being comfortable is the most important to me. I don't care how good the move looks or sounds, if you are uncomfortable it ruins the movie.
2. Sound quality, I think sound and video go hand in hand, but if I had to choose one more important I would say sound
3. Video quality, see 2
4. Looks and feel of theater (decent colors, curtains, star ceiling, columns, stage, etc)
5. Sound proofing.

I know everyone will have different priorities, but these are mine. If I can do all of them and stay in budget then GREAT.

Ok, so a friend of mine had a great suggestion. Put away all the things I want and can do in the room and and come up with a priority list of the most important thing I want. So here it is in order, not that I don't think they are all important, this is just the order I would prefer.
1. Seating, being comfortable is the most important to me. I don't care how good the move looks or sounds, if you are uncomfortable it ruins the movie.
2. Sound quality, I think sound and video go hand in hand, but if I had to choose one more important I would say sound
3. Video quality, see 2
4. Looks and feel of theater (decent colors, curtains, star ceiling, columns, stage, etc)
5. Sound proofing.

I know everyone will have different priorities, but these are mine. If I can do all of them and stay in budget then GREAT.

I would give some thought to an AT screen as well. I wish I had the room for one, but I would have sacrificed some seating if I had gone that route. It really does solve a lot of other problems if you go that way too.

Seating is important, but I've sat in some nice seats in really crappy environments and it didn't help. The mother-in-law can have a kickass recliner, but you're still listening to her yap while sitting in it, ya know??

You mention sound proofing. Since it's down on the list, what exactly are you hoping to acheive? Do you care about being able to hear the LFE upstairs or will everyone in the house be in the theater when it's being blasted? Those are some things to consider.

I don't think you'll have a problem finding good video and audio. There are tons of options for just about any budget.

I 2nd Pmeyer's comment on the front row riser. I'd kill it like OJ in Brentwood.

I actually do have some equipment I can re-use if need be.
First I have 2 complete AV setups, 1 is newer and is in my current living room (which I will watch about 85% of the time) and the 2nd one is the older one I replaced with the new equipment.

Here is a list of the older equipment (about 10 years or so) currently in the basement setup and is hardly used.
TV: JVC 30" tube
Receiver: Yamaha RX-V890 (5.1) (http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/productdetail.html?CNTID=200258&CTID=5000300&ATRID=1010&DETYP=ATTRIBUTE)
Main Speakers: MTX AAL1540 (http://www.mtxhome.com/manuals/AALMANUAL.pdf)
Sub: MTX PSW-101B
Center: Yamaha NS-AC85
Surround: Polk Audio M Series
I also have a nice pair of studio speakers Event 20/20 series.
Laser Disk player (with about 60 movies)
6 disk progressive scan DVD player

Current living room setup
TV: Samsung 50" DLP read projection TV
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR801 (http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR801&class=Receiver&p=i)
Speakers: Bose Accoustimass (I think it is the 15, I have 5.1 but it is cable of 7.1)
Vista Media Center HTPC (dual tuners, plus HDHR)
2 DirectTV satellite HD receivers

I also have a PS3 for blue ray and I will have another Xbox 360 for a media extender.

Things I don't have
Projector
Screen
Theater seating

So keeping all this in mind, I still do need 2 complete sets for the new house, one in the main living room (remember 85% viewing time) and one for the home theater.

I will keep the HTPC in the living room and use the 360 in the theater room. I will put the Bose speakers in the living room (wife likes the small speakers, I actually don't mind them). I will put the PS3 and laser disk player in theater room.

So, I am thinking I could just swap receivers so 5.1 in living room and 7.1 in theater. I could re-use the sub and possibly the center channel. The mains and surrounds are probably too old (still sound nice though). The wife won't allow the Big cabinet mains in the living room. Doing this I will probably save some money and can always be upgraded later.

I will have to do some research on AT screens, no idea what that is, if you have a link handy that would be great.

True about the seating and mother-in-law (actually I am very lucky, my mother in law is better than my mother.... shhhhhh). I do think some of these things overlap or are close, but that is just the list in order if I had a gun to my head and had to choose on the spot.

As far as sound proofing. I am more concerned with sound getting in than out. Sure complete sound proofing would be nice, but not a necessity. The reason why it is low on the list is probably the whole family will be in the room when watching so sound escaping is not a big issue. I am building in the country on a 4 acre lot so I am not worried about neighbors.

Riser, So ok, no front riser then, so riser height 12" then? I do have to be concerned with how low the projector hangs down form the 9' ceiling. So with riser it would be 8', then down another foot (I would imaging) for the projector which would leave 7 feet of clearance.... Sound right?

I'd kill it like OJ in Brentwood.

Nice, Jason.
Now that I'm done laughing...

Epayne - since you mentioned soundproofing, I suggest you plan/consider/budget for this first to whatever degree you need. It's easy to change/fix many things in your theater later, but really tough to change the construction itself if you are unhappy with it. Some people in this forum have even gone so far as to rip out a newly constructed theater and start over after not being satisfied with the soundproofing situation. It may or may not be a concern for your build, but it's one of the more important things to nail down early.

One more thing...check out the screens forum for tons of info on AT screens, more info on 2.35, etc.

epayne,

Hey its me again, glad to see you have an "official" build thread now. As I was reading your initial post I was truly disappointed you did not reference any of your wants by linking to my theater.:( Here I have been with you just about every step of the way and for what? For nuthin' That's what. Well now your on your own now buddy boy.

Sorry about that just had to get that off of my chest.

Making a list of your priorities and what you want to achieve with your theater is a great way to start communicating with your AV guys so they know where you are coming from.

I have always believed that the home theater experience is a one, two punch with video and audio. I think they go essentially hand in hand but if you would pin me down I would give the audio as the more important of the two however slight. I would agree that if either one is crappy then the experience as a whole can be ruined.

As far as colors go the "perfect" theater would be totally flat black except for the screen, but who wants to sit in a flat black theater. In choosing your colors typically anything in the deep/dark reds, browns, blues, grays, and of course black is acceptable. Ideally it should be a flat finish but I'm planning on using an eggshell finish. As you go up in the finishes satin, semi-gloss and gloss you are starting to invite shine and reflections from your painted surfaces.

As I have said before just relax, ask a lot of questions, and enjoy this journey.

Regards,

RTROSE

here are some screen links for you.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=769702&highlight=show

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561280

And color schemes

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=834185&highlight=show

Or links to MY theater for that matter!!! :( What's the world coming to?

AT screens are "acoustically transparent" screens. I believe I have AT kids, as whatever I say just passes right through them. Go to a commercial theater and walk right up to the screen. You'll see little tiny holes in the screen. Now touch it (ok. you don't really have to touch it). The holes allow the sound to pass through. The best position for your front channels is in the middle of the screen, but this would block the view, so an AT screen allows you to have the speakers behind the screen. The downside is that you need to bump your screen wall out (I believe 18" is the minimum) but if you have the depth, you can do it.

The rule I learned on color was that white is the worst and black is the best. Start with black and back up to where you're comfortable. My theater is a mix of blacks, browns, and burgundys.

As far as keeping sound out of the room, I went with two layers of drywall, fully insulated walls, and a solid core door. When we're in the theater, I can't hear anything from the outside. Even with the door to the theater and the door at the top of the stairs open, it's still hard for me to hear elsewhere.

On a side note, I'm glad you're not talking about pulling the Bose speakers into your dedicated theater. I think there's some kind of law around that :)

Hey its me again, glad to see you have an "official" build thread now. As I was reading your initial post I was truly disappointed you did not reference any of your wants by linking to my theater.:( Here I have been with you just about every step of the way and for what? For nuthin' That's what. Well now your on your own now buddy boy.
I started to include a bunch of links to a ton of theaters, I figured there would be way to much.... sorry :)

The rule I learned on color was that white is the worst and black is the best. Start with black and back up to where you're comfortable. My theater is a mix of blacks, browns, and burgundys.
I was planning on going with a deep red for the theater room

On a side note, I'm glad you're not talking about pulling the Bose speakers into your dedicated theater. I think there's some kind of law around that
Yeah I know, they were not my first choice, but one night when the wife and I went drunk shopping (that is where you went out drinking, had to much and for some stupid reason you want to go shopping and spend money, usually regretting it in the morning). Out of no where she said lets get a new tv setup.... I didn't hesitate, I jumped at the chance... I used to have those big MTX speakers in the living room that she hated. I actually had a roomate many years ago that was into air brushing. He kept on running out of canvas's and one day when I cam home I found that he used my speaker covers... Anyways, wife was very stern that she did not want big speakers. I have seen many *cough* comments about Bose here and understand most of them. For the main living room TV (85% viewing time) they actually don't sound to bad. Most TV viewing is SD sitcoms or cartoon for the kids.

So what do you think about that Onyko, Do you think I could use it in the home theater for now and switch back to the Yamaha in the living room? Or what about the rest of the parts? We already determined that the bose should stay in living room.

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the comments

Are the AT screen usually more expensive than the standard screens?

Also I wanted to mention about the priority list, that order does NOT signify the amount of money I would spend in that order, it is more of a wish list... If number 5 is the most important, than so be it.

Are the AT screen usually more expensive than the standard screens?

Also I wanted to mention about the priority list, that order does NOT signify the amount of money I would spend in that order, it is more of a wish list... If number 5 is the most important, than so be it.

The Shearweave 4500 material (one of the most used DIY screens) can be had for ~$50/yard. So you could build your own screen for less than $500 for all materials. Way cheaper than buying a premade screen, but requires some work on your part.

As far as sound proofing. I am more concerned with sound getting in than out. Sure complete sound proofing would be nice, but not a necessity. The reason why it is low on the list is probably the whole family will be in the room when watching so sound escaping is not a big issue. I am building in the country on a 4 acre lot so I am not worried about neighbors.


Sounds like you at least should consider double drywall with green glue and insulation in the walls/ceiling and solid core doors.


Riser, So ok, no front riser then, so riser height 12" then? I do have to be concerned with how low the projector hangs down form the 9' ceiling. So with riser it would be 8', then down another foot (I would imaging) for the projector which would leave 7 feet of clearance.... Sound right?
Since you will be entering from the back of the room at an already established height, due to the landing from the stairs, I think your "riser height" is already determined as well, no? So the only thing you have to discern now is how many steps do you need to get to the floor at its lowest point. Otherwise you would have to step into the room, step down to the riser height, and then step down again to the floor.

So how high is the the landing where the entrance to the theater is located?

Since you will be entering from the back of the room at an already established height, due to the landing from the stairs, I think your "riser height" is already determined as well, no? So the only thing you have to discern now is how many steps do you need to get to the floor at its lowest point. Otherwise you would have to step into the room, step down to the riser height, and then step down again to the floor.

So how high is the the landing where the entrance to the theater is located?

The landing\platform is not decided on yet, I just like the idea of walking into a theater room then stepping down. It could be 6" from ground or 24" from ground, doesn't matter to me, I had originally thought the platform would be the same height as the second set of stairs coming down, so basically you would not use the second set of stairs, you would be walking right down to the platform then into the home theater room at what ever height I want. There is a side section of the platform that will step down to the family room, again what ever height I want. Does this make sense at all?

Also about the screen, handy I am not, might be able to get some help, but how is the quality really???

The landing\platform is not decided on yet, I just like the idea of walking into a theater room then stepping down. It could be 6" from ground or 24" from ground, doesn't matter to me, I had originally thought the platform would be the same height as the second set of stairs coming down, so basically you would not use the second set of stairs, you would be walking right down to the platform then into the home theater room at what ever height I want. There is a side section of the platform that will step down to the family room, again what ever height I want. Does this make sense at all?


In this case I think you would not want the walk in height of the theater to be less than ~8'. This would then give you a ~12" step down to the floor and front seats. But if you want to keep the step height at 8" this would give you a 16" step down (so two steps) down to the floor in both the theater and your family room.

IMO this needs to be decided early on. You want to select the height in which you would walk in (are you sure it hasn't already been decided since you have floor plans?) to the theater.


Also about the screen, handy I am not, might be able to get some help, but how is the quality really???

I have not seen one in person but everything that I have read about them is that they have great video quality with no noticeable effect on sound, even with the speakers placed as close as a couple inches from the screen. With the amount of forum members that are using one I would say they are wuite good. ;)

Sounds like you at least should consider double drywall with green glue and insulation in the walls/ceiling and solid core doors.
All comes down to overall cost. I would love to do it if I can fit it into the budget. At the very least I am going to do a single layer of drywall on the outside of room and a single layer on the inside with insulation in between. If the cost is not that much more for DD\GG on inside, then I will..

Got a quote back on star ceiling prefab..... 10K.... OMG.. there goes my budget!

OK - I'm glad you're keeping the Bose upstairs. No more talk of that now. You'll notice soon that more hair will grow on your chest, voice will deepen, etc.. The changes are pretty dramatic once you step away from those things.

Does your Onkyo have HDMI? If so, then I'd say there should be no problem using it until you upgrade. Worst case, you can run component video to the projector and just deal with it until then.

Does your Onkyo have HDMI? If so, then I'd say there should be no problem using it until you upgrade. Worst case, you can run component video to the projector and just deal with it until then.
Yup: Receiver Specs (http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR801&class=Receiver&p=f)

Then I would say go for it. That stuff is easy to swap out down the road anyway. As far as your question around AT screen pricing, they can get up there. An SMX brand screen was about 2-3x what I'm paying for my screen, just to give you a point of reference. Several members have actually made their own AT screen for a fraction of that.

Ok.. so then seating, first the chairs... I probably won't be able to afford the to of the line Berkline and some of the prices I have seen, like 3,500. I am sure they have cheaper models, but Ashley's furniture here in town has some of these (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65094939@N00/3079475609/sizes/o/)that are extremely comfortable.. course this could cause passing out during a movie :)

With a 16-3 1/2 width in the room and knowing I have to get two isle stairs in there is it possible to get 4 seats across, or just three. That picture above is a 2 seat kind of like a love seat on each side. I might consider getting this one for the front row and a 4 position in the back row. Since my wife and I will be the main people watching, kids would be on the floor in front and occasionally a few guest in the back row.

You can easily get 4 seats in a 16ft room. I have a row of 3 across my back wall, and it's just 11 feet.

Next question.
Distance from screen, riser height and seating positions...
AV guy says to put the first row of seats at 11.54' back from screen and the second row at 17.44' back from screen. Both of these measure measurements is for a 100" screen. I want a bigger screen at least 120. A friend of mine has a 10x12 room and has a 120 in it and it looks just fine to me. One row of seats is about 8 feet back... Course he has a really expensive screen and an ok projector.

You may need to ditch your AV guy soon. A lot of this comes down to personal preference. I'm going with a 128" diagonal 2.35 screen. My first row is at 10 feet (roughly) and my 2nd row is at 16 feet. I prefer watching from the back row, but the kids love the front row. Keep in mind, this is all 1080 stuff as well though.

Yeah it sucks that no one around here seems to no what is going on, I think there main focus is selling equipment and that is it. I would love a 130" screen and it sounds like I could do the same type of distance back. If I can save money on the equipment I already have I could get the more expensive projector. But from what I gather, what ever my budget is, is to spend the most on speakers, then screen, then projector... does that make sense?

I think the rule of thumb in the AV world is 40% on speakers. I personally would use your existing speakers where you can, especially the mains. If you need new surrounds or are doing in-walls, then those would probably be best to get up front. Otherwise, just swap things out as you can. Just off the top of my head, here's how I spent my money (I'm still spending actually).

Screen - $800
Projector - $2500
Receiver - $650
Subwoofer - $475
Speakers - $900 (I got a bunch of these off Audigon and Ebay)
Seating for 6 - $2000

I also have an Xbox360, Ps3, and a power conditioner.

I'd have to go back through the receipts, but I probably spent about $200-$300 on cables, which includes:

500 ft spool of speaker wire
HDMI cable
Component cables
composite cables
VGA
2 x USB cables
optical cables and hdmi for my rack


I did my riser and stage for about $400 total. This includes insulation and sand.

I have a spreadsheet I've been using to track costs, but it needs to be updated before I can post it. The bulk of my build money went to plumbing, drywall, and carpet.

Yup: Receiver Specs (http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR801&class=Receiver&p=f)

I just looked at the link you provied and the receiver you linked to does not have HDMI. You will want to run HDMI even if you are not going to use it yet for a future upgrade.

Also be careful about being sucked into the "snake oil" regarding expensive cables and interconnects. You can get everything you need at a reasonable price through monoprice cables. Have purchased several items from them and been very pleased.

Regards,

RTROSE

Yeah it sucks that no one around here seems to no what is going on, I think there main focus is selling equipment and that is it. I would love a 130" screen and it sounds like I could do the same type of distance back. If I can save money on the equipment I already have I could get the more expensive projector. But from what I gather, what ever my budget is, is to spend the most on speakers, then screen, then projector... does that make sense?

IMO if you want to go with a 130 inch screen then you need to consider entering the room from a different location and moving the seats further back.

While it may be hard to visualize why don't you find a room around the approximate size of your theater and construct a make shift screen of various sizes with a bed sheet or something. Then sit at various spots in the room to see how the size feels.

In regards to equipment I would use the Onkyo in the theater for now until you can upgrade later.

Buy new speakers. You can easily get a decent set of speakers for a couple grand. Check out internet direct companies like Axiom, Aperion, AV123 etc. AV123 has a smokin' deal on the Rockets right now, but it has towers for the rear which might not be what you are looking for. Your current crop of speakers doesn't match so go new.

Pick up a decent screen or consider the DIY option we mentioned above.

Pick up a 1080p projector. Right now unless you get a killer deal on a 720p projector, a 1080p projector just seems like the better buy with the size screen and seating distance you plan to have.

I just looked at the link you provied and the receiver you linked to does not have HDMI. You will want to run HDMI even if you are not going to use it yet for a future upgrade.
Yeah I looked here click on rear view (http://www.us.onkyo.com/zoom.cfm?class=Receiver&m=TX-NR801#) and I don't see HDMI, oh well I am fine with component cable for now (I will still run HDMI) and upgrade that stuff later.
I only ever used 5.1 on this, I think that it is capable of 7.1

IMO if you want to go with a 130 inch screen then you need to consider entering the room from a different location and moving the seats further back.

Foundation is poured now, I can't change the room dimensions or how to enter the room (those are load barring wall on either side of room). And I prefer to enter from back, so 130" is too much, what about 120" ?

So I know I have to buy project and screen at the very least for equipment, Do you think those MTX mains and sub, yamaha center and Polk Audio surrounds could be used and sound ok for now? I would have to get another set of surrounds for 7.1 through...

Also, The riser height (based on entering from the back) has to line up with the stairs and these are in 8" increments. So I could have gone with either 8" total platform\riser (butting up to only one step on the stair case). 16" riser height (butting up to two steps on the stair case). Or 24" riser height) butting up to three steps on stair case). I just found out the that to do the 16" (in the middle) riser (single riser) would have to change my room dimensions a little (don't ask, I don't understand that). And because the foundation is poured it would cost extra. So I told them, no more money have to keep it the way it is which is the 24" (3 stair steps) riser.. Can't change that now. So knowing this, that makes the overall height of the tallest part of the room 7; (originally 9' ceiling minus 24"). I am wondering how far down the project will have to come from the ceiling, I assume it would be positioned just about the middle chair of the back row, so if projector hangs down say one foot, that would leave 6' clearance in that chair. Is that ok?
Also knowing this, I would assume that it would either have to be two sets of risers at different heights. Does this make sense?

Thanks

Foundation is poured now, I can't change the room dimensions or how to enter the room (those are load barring wall on either side of room). And I prefer to enter from back, so 130" is too much, what about 120" ?


I didn't mean to change any dimensions, just move the entrance to the side of the room, but all is moot now.


So I know I have to buy project and screen at the very least for equipment, Do you think those MTX mains and sub, yamaha center and Polk Audio surrounds could be used and sound ok for now? I would have to get another set of surrounds for 7.1 through...


Only you can answer this, but I will say that you listed audio performance as your #2 priority. These speakers don't say "high priority" to me!


Also, The riser height (based on entering from the back) has to line up with the stairs and these are in 8" increments. So I could have gone with either 8" total platform\riser (butting up to only one step on the stair case). 16" riser height (butting up to two steps on the stair case). Or 24" riser height) butting up to three steps on stair case). I just found out the that to do the 16" (in the middle) riser (single riser) would have to change my room dimensions a little (don't ask, I don't understand that). And because the foundation is poured it would cost extra. So I told them, no more money have to keep it the way it is which is the 24" (3 stair steps) riser.. Can't change that now. So knowing this, that makes the overall height of the tallest part of the room 7; (originally 9' ceiling minus 24"). I am wondering how far down the project will have to come from the ceiling, I assume it would be positioned just about the middle chair of the back row, so if projector hangs down say one foot, that would leave 6' clearance in that chair. Is that ok?
Also knowing this, I would assume that it would either have to be two sets of risers at different heights. Does this make sense?

Thanks

No offense but IMO having a 7' walk in height when you have 9' ceilings was just poor planning (or lack of). But what are you going to do now? Work around it is all you can do. I would consider having a platform at walk in height (24") at the back, then step down to the riser where the back row seats reside (12", 2-6" steps), then have two more 6" steps at the front of the riser to the bottom level where the front row resides.

How far will be the rear of the seats in the back row be from the back wall? 3 feet? Is that reclined or upright?

Thanks for the reply.

The room dimensions have always been planned as 15x20 (or someone like that). I wanted to do 9' ceilings so I could get a type of stadium seating in. And I wanted to enter the room from the back. I really don't see why that would be poor planning, I think I have done a lot more than what the builder expected me to do. Again, I thought I would have 2-4 years worth of planning how to build the risers and room out. I know you wouldn't say that with a pretty much blank canvas like this is worthless and it really should be a major issue, just have to figure it out.

The foundation is poured to the specs I provided and I think that is fine. All we need to do is figure out riser heights, that should be it. I think 9' ceiling is huge, and I see a lot of theaters people get 8' ceilings and still get one and possibly two risers in. I am fine with one riser, I just need to figure out how to get it in there.

The back seat to wall is 3' upright, most of the chairs recline to under a foot that I have been looking at. Almost like wall huggers.

Thanks for the reply.

The room dimensions have always been planned as 15x20 (or someone like that). I wanted to do 9' ceilings so I could get a type of stadium seating in. And I wanted to enter the room from the back. I really don't see why that would be poor planning,



That part is not poor planning. But when you have to enter at 7' with a projector hanging down...:confused: If you were able to enter at 8' and step down only two steps I think you would be happier. But this is just my opinion. It is, after all, your house! :p


The foundation is poured to the specs I provided and I think that is fine. All we need to do is figure out riser heights, that should be it. I think 9' ceiling is huge, and I see a lot of theaters people get 8' ceilings and still get one and possibly two risers in. I am fine with one riser, I just need to figure out how to get it in there.


The difference between these other theaters and yours is the entrance height. Most of these theaters enter at the lowest level and step up (hence the term riser) to the seating. This enables people to enter the room and not feel closed in before making their way to the seats. Having to step down is not a bad thing, but you might feel a little closed in at first with a 7 foot height.


The back seat to wall is 3' upright, most of the chairs recline to under a foot that I have been looking at. Almost like wall huggers.
So that leaves a two foot distance reclined between the seat and back wall. What way will the door swing? Not in! Which means it has to swing out onto the staircase or you have to move the seats further in. Or use a pocket door (which to my understanding is not good for trying to seal a room).

So I meet with the builder designer today and we went over the dimensions of the room. I will post the plans when I get them, but I wrote down the dimensions.

Ok, so I have only been playing around in SketchUp for about an hour. You will have to cut me some slack, I can't seem to get the dimensions 100% accurate but they are pretty close.
We can play around with the dimensions a little bit if needed. But as of now you walk in at 24" above floor (7' floor to ceiling). Then you take a 8" step down for the back row of chairs which will then be 7' 8" (floor to ceiling). From there you can walk down 2 sets of steps both at 8". Here you will hit the bottom floor at 9' (floor to ceiling) which results in a 16" riser difference.
This should leave about 11' from the screen for the first row and about 17' for the second row of seats (again, not 100% accurate with dimensions).
So the projector (I would imagine) would be right above the back center row of chairs. This will have 7' 8" height and if a standard projector height is roughly 8" then that would leave a full 7" clearance (which I would think is adequate).

Thoughts? Ideas?

Actually I am pretty impressed that I got the render down this fast!


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/3081409908_3a272ce9d9_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/3080572105_5bf74139d3_b.jpg

epayne,

Your drawing actually looks better than the "professional" one you were given. Seeing your room/drawing this way makes better sense on what your trying to accomplish. I would think that 7' of clearance would be more than adequate. Your room is unique I can't think of another theater quite like yours with a rear entry and riser set up. Reminds me of how a lot of commercial theaters are set up with stadium seating.

Regards,

RTROSE

here is a couple more renderings (yeah still not the greatest), but I wanted to visually show how the platform at the bottom of the stairs will look
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/3084034583_1445e44f3a_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/3084028849_f68e9718a7_b.jpg

And from the other side

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3272/3084028873_71c83cf50e_b.jpg

If I recall correctly, Green Bay is going to require a net of 36" between any obstacle and the back wall since that is your only egress path. That would be measured with the seats reclined. As well, the door to the room will have to open in to the room (so it cannot be blocked from the outside). I'd have to pull out the code book for your area; but, I'd verify if they have a 7'-6" minimum height in an occupied room.

Dennis,

Thanks for your reply.
The builder has been stating the code along the way (yeah I can't remember exactly how it is). But the 3 feet in the back of the room was according to code. The did have to put in walls out the outside of the room on either side of the door for code as well so the doors could swing out. The platform from the outside of the theater to the stairs is over 5' (I know it is taking me a while to get the exact measurements down in SketchUp. I will upload the new basement drawing when I get them.

Thanks

Sort of like this....
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3085034150_d9f116e365_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/3085038020_5e4e944467_o.jpg

Alright a stupid question, but I see some contradicting post.
Are theater screens not measured the same was as TV?
Is the measurement you hear like 100" the width only or is it the diagonal length?

Ok, here it is.
Note: The builder is still trying to get a price of DD\GG. I told them at bare minimum draw it with single layer of drywall on each side with insulation.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3042/3084268561_6345f05963_b.jpg


And here is a cross reference (on left) and a view of the back wall from the screen
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/3085114784_16c2d523c5_o.jpg

I'm loving the step down from the back.

TVs are measured in diagonals because they're a consistant aspect ratio. I won't bother talking about 4:3, as just about every TV out today is 16:9 screen. Projector screen are measured the same way until you start moving into scope screens. At that point, most people refer to them by how wide they are.

Ok, so my friend has a 120" screen in a 10x12 room. the distance from screen to eyes is about 8 feet. I don't see any issues with that at all... looks great when playing rock band!
So with a 16x21 room I should be able to get a bigger screen, right? At the very least the same size screen...

So much around screen size really comes to personal preference. I'd say it is 2 part. 1-how good the image looks at a certain distance and 2-how far back you like to sit from the screen.

As far as #1 goes, I can tell you from my personal experience that you can probably factor out the image quality issue with a new 1080p projector unless you're sitting RIGHT on the screen, which isn't going to happen unless you've been drinking too much of the Kool-Aid.

The best thing to do is check out various screen sizes and just move back and forth and see what spot works for you. One thing I was told a long time ago was to go to the local theater and pick your favorite seat. You can either pace it off or take a rough guess of how far back you are from the screen. Distances are usually talked about in multipliers of the screen height, so if you find yourself sitting 30 feet back from a 10 foot tall screen, you probably want to sit 3X back at home. It could go the other way too. Once you have that factor, you can look at your wall to determine the screen height based on your seating location. The width will work itself out depending on which aspect ratio screen you choose.

I posted this in a different post but thought I would post it here as well.
I was able to get itemized list cost of the equipment the AV guy was offering. I originally told him that I would like to keep the equipment under 5k. So knowing this he is piecing together items, so some may be old, some on clearance, etc
Projector: Epson Pro Cinema 810 $1600
Screen: Dalite 100" $1300
Ceiling mounts: $250
Receiver: Sony STRDG720 $300
Speakers: Paradigm Cinema 70CT SS $650
Installation $1800
Total Cost: $5899

I did send him my list of equipment and asked what he would suggest so that I would still have 2 setups (living room and theater room).
Hoping to be able to use something to save money and put it towards a 1080 projector... Oh well I have a few months before I have to actually buy the equipment so I will be bargain hunting.

If you're willing to look at other brands, you can cut that screen price in half. I just ordered a 128" Carada. Even with the premium paid for the brighter fabric, it was still under $800.

Personally, I wouldn't even worry about that $300 receiver he's offering. Your current receiver is probably better than that. And what exactly is included in the installation?

Oh.. Your projector mount should be about half of that price, and thats on the high end.

Do you have a link for that Carada screen you got?
Yeah i suspected the prices to be high as well.

www.carada.com

1.78 is standard widescreen. I went with 2.35 under "precision series". This will be my 2nd Carada screen. They've been great to work with.


Note: Above message was posted as a result of an independent study. Poster does not work Carada or any Carada affiliate. Comments are the sole property of said poster and can not be reproduced or re-transmitted without the consent of Major League Baseball.


Member FDIC

doh.. I missed an A in the name when I searched first the first time
Wow that is a kewl looking screen.
So I assume some assembly is required?

Floor lighting... Better on the wall, or under the steps?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3200/3087576213_eb6a74a92e_o.jpg

doh.. I missed an A in the name when I searched first the first time
Wow that is a kewl looking screen.
So I assume some assembly is required?

I'll take some pictures of the process when mine arrives. You basically slide the 4 pieces of the frame together and secure then with 8 screws. The screen has snaps on it. you start wih one corner and then work your way around, so it stays nice and tight. From there, it basically mounts to the wall via a french cleat.

Wow, he's charging you $1800 to what amounts a couple of hours - or at most a days - worth of work to setup a projector/screen/audio....

Wow, he's charging you $1800 to what amounts a couple of hours - or at most a days - worth of work to setup a projector/screen/audio....

Actually I am seeing that price at a few places now....

I agree. $1800 is a rip.

epayne,

as far as your lights, I personally like them on the steps. However you get better lighting coverage of more steps if they are wall mounted but that may be a moot point since you are only lighting at the max two steps.

I also think 1800.00 is a steep price for installation and set up in fact I think I could justify (at these cheaper gas prices) a road trip to Green Bay and for a bargain basement price set up, install, and adjust your equipment for the paltry price of 900.00 and if you provide housing, room and board, and beer I could cut my price to 600.00.

Food for thought.

Regards,

RTROSE

I'll do it for $450 and a nice pizza.

I'll do it for $450 and a nice pizza.

Ok, ok. Final offer. $425 and 2 Banquet Pot Pies (Chicken) and a liter of cola!


Regards,

RTROSE

All yours. I can't touch that.

I don't like the price either and want to talk him down a bit.
I do think I need someone in that industry to do the setup for me until I can learn more.

Mounting the projector mount to the ceiling is probably the hardest part of it all, and that's still nothing. I would cut him out all together and isntal the equipment yourself.

Few more renderings...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3094/3092253103_7c600270ed_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/3093092106_1865d7857c_b.jpg

So today at 10:30 I was so excited when the builder told me that the well was dug at 102'. The threshold was 105'. If it wasn't hit before 105 they would have to go to 350 due to the arsnic warning in the area.... So after getting so excited because of the cost savings and that I would be able to the home theater I was very disappointed when the builder called back to say the well guys dried up the well, apparently it was just a small pocket of water and now they have to did the full depth... which means the likelihood of doing the home theater is not good.... Been in a crappy mood all day now, I even forgot my wallet when I went to the gas station and had to go back to get it (after signing my life away).

I asked the AV guy about speaker placement and the wall jack and he mentioned they don't typically do wall plates. They just run the wire and poke a hole through the drywall to connect to the speakers. He said the wall plates don't really look that good and typically you wouldn't change the connections.

epayne,

Sorry to hear about the well. I know it is quite a blow to you and your plans that is a very tough break.

Regarding the "just poke a hole and pass the wire through" method I know it is effective but not the most aesthetically pleasing. Having a wall plate makes it look "finished" and more professional looking. You could actually do the wall plates to finish the wire your self. The following two items is all you need to finish the wires off.

A new or old work box like these.

http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/Content/Media/Images/Product/b120a.jpg

http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/Content/Media/Images/Product/b114r.jpg

And a wall plate like this.

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/33241.jpg

You could easily use these items to DIY a nice finished look to take care of just a wire poking out of the wall.

Regards,

RTROSE

Oh and BTW the more I hear about this "installer" fellow the more they are sounding like the "Fire Dog" guys. No offense to anyone as a result of the Fire Dog comment but from the three or four people I know who have used them with less than satisfactory results. Sorry just my .02

I asked the AV guy about speaker placement and the wall jack and he mentioned they don't typically do wall plates. They just run the wire and poke a hole through the drywall to connect to the speakers. He said the wall plates don't really look that good and typically you wouldn't change the connections.

If you have floor standing speakers I would definately put the plates on like RT showed you ... but if the surrounds are wall mounted I see no reason to put a plate as you would never see it and as stated likely never change them either ... maybe just put banana plugs on the ends of the cables for a nice clean install


goto www.monoprice.com for inexpensive cables and connections

You could easily use these items to DIY a nice finished look to take care of just a wire poking out of the wall.

I actually have used those plates before in my current house. I wired all the cat5 and living room audio like that.

Do you know if you can get those face plates in a different color than white or cream? Like a dark color?

h and BTW the more I hear about this "installer" fellow the more they are sounding like the "Fire Dog" guys. No offense to anyone as a result of the Fire Dog comment but from the three or four people I know who have used them with less than satisfactory results. Sorry just my .02

Yeah I agree... Not sure if I will use them or not, Sounds like I know more than they do (which isn't much :). Since I probably won't be able to do the theater now I will have more time to research and do it correctly myself... course I don't have any real tools so I would have to invest in those as well. I am hoping the wife just breaks down and says do it anyways.....

So where is the thread title "I built my home theater using nothing but a hammer, screw driver and hand saw".... :)

So where is the thread title "I built my home theater using nothing but a hammer, screw driver and hand saw".... :)
There isn't one because the guy couldn't type from his hands hurting so much! :D

ha... funny.
I stopped by the builder again today to get new tweaked plans. The designer told me that the builder really wants a home theater room for the showcase and she thinks that he is going to give a really good discount...
So what do you think about just a painted wall for a screen? If I can re-use equipment I have then I could just buy few other components, and I would prefer to buy decent pieces from the get go, so the only thing (I believe) I would have to buy now is the projector and the screen. If I can save money on just a painted wall I could spend more money on a projector up front, then upgrade other components later. I would prefer not to have to buy a cheap project only to turn around and buy a better one in the future and worry about trying to sell the old one...

ha... funny.
I stopped by the builder again today to get new tweaked plans. The designer told me that the builder really wants a home theater room for the showcase and she thinks that he is going to give a really good discount...
So what do you think about just a painted wall for a screen? If I can re-use equipment I have then I could just buy few other components, and I would prefer to buy decent pieces from the get go, so the only thing (I believe) I would have to buy now is the projector and the screen. If I can save money on just a painted wall I could spend more money on a projector up front, then upgrade other components later. I would prefer not to have to buy a cheap project only to turn around and buy a better one in the future and worry about trying to sell the old one...

If your builder, and the AV store, really want a theater in the house, why not ask the AV guy to supply some items for the show. I doubt they will want to display a "painted wall theater" as opposed to showing off a nice screen.

And as mentioned before a DIY screen can be done for $300 or less!

Agreed, Going to also see if the furniture\appliance store can supply the theater chairs for now. Comfort is the most important for me, but I have a spare couch I can throw in for now..

Ductwork.
I originally told the builder that I didn't want any type of ductwork or plumbing going through the theater room (to which they said no problem). The furnace guy is now saying they will have to run some ductwork through the room including in the room. They claim they will be able to put it up in the rafters and it shouldn't be inside the room causing more sofits to be built. Will this effect sound escaping? I guess I knew some kind of heat\air work will have to be piped to the room, but I didn't know how. They wanted to just put some vents in the ceiling. I asked if they could put them in the planned sofits on each side of the top of the room. they are checking on that.
If they can fit it into the joists and not have it come down into the room (meaning drywall can be put up under it), is that ok? Anything that I am missing? I am suppose to talk with the furnace guys soon.

Thanks

Ok, meet with the builder tonight and he assured me the duct work will all fit inside the joists and nothing will be under, in fact the will but it up even higher to allow for more insulation underneath it.

We also went and looked at another house they are finishing now which is similar to ours.. .and wow.. OMG.. they are gorgeous...

Talked with another AV guy yesterday on the phone and plan on meeting with him tomorrow (Friday). I feel far more comfortable with this guy, he seems to know what he is talking about and at least he uses VMC at home and can talk intelligently about it. He mentioned some of there vendors have offered anywhere from 15% to 50% off equipment to show case their product. He seems to understand more about home theater design and how the room should be laid out. Their specialty is to hide all the speakers and try to make the room look like a true theater.

He did have another great idea that I didn't think of as far as structured cabling. With all the new appliances that are coming out some of the higher end ones have cat5e connection for internet connectivity. yeah I know, probably won't get one, but running one cable behind the appliances for now will save me in the future. Wife always wanted one of those new stoves that act like a refrigerator as well as a stove. She can make a pot roast or something the night before, put it in the oven, it will keep it cold till the next day. She then can log on from work a turn on the stove on and have it all cooked by the time she gets home. I told her that is a future upgrade, need the money now for home theater room right now (which the builder is still trying to push and give a better discount, still waiting on the price yet).

Also meet with the builder to pick out doors, siding, shingles, etc. We were able to come in 1k under budget by picking out things and not upgrading everything. Course they did say, well this siding will be unique and it will stand out from everyone else in the neighbor hood. I told then "what stand out from the bar next door because I am in the country". I don't need to worry about standing out... :) They also said well this one looks nicer and will only cost 300 more... We said no, it is just looks and you can't tell unless your are a foot away from the wall.. I could here them talking about them just covering the cost....

Updated design with more dimensions and stage.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/3101100450_825425cc0a_b.jpg

Can the middle riser be any skinner?

What is the benefit or difference between putting the screen on the wall or out from the wall?

You know what I hate, every AV place claims there product is the best and are unwilling to say if another place has better equipment.
Sony is the best projector, no Epson, no JVC, Panasonic, etc, etc

You know what I hate, every AV place claims there product is the best and are unwilling to say if another place has better equipment.
Sony is the best projector, no Epson, no JVC, Panasonic, etc, etc

Just like buying a car, or furniture. Of course they aren't going to say the others are better. That is what third party reviews and forums are for!

That being said, When you are enjoying your theater, you won't be thinking about what the AV sales guy said about "yada, yada, yada."

Typically you would only put the screen off the wall or on a false wall if you were doing an acoustically transparent screen and placing your speakers directly behind the screen.

Typically you would only put the screen off the wall or on a false wall if you were doing an acoustically transparent screen and placing your speakers directly behind the screen.

Thanks.. I probably won't do that now... just putting it on the wall.
Just trying to play with the equipment numbers right now. If I use my old speakers for now I could spend the extra 800 or so on a 120 screen versus a 100 screen.

some places are very hesitant on putting up anything bigger than a 100" screen in a 16x21x9 room... I have seen a 120 in a 12x12x8 and I did not think it looked to big at all, in fact it looked perfect to me.

Looked at iSky star ceilings today, I was not really impressed by them and the cost (oh well that is a future upgrade anyways).

Looked at theater chairs as well.. still way to expensive... I found a nice couch with a wedge from ashley that I think would look great in an HT room for about 500 cheaper. Comes in a deep red as well.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3054/3079475609_a597332ce4_o.jpg

Not sure if you are planning a 16:9 or a 2:35 screen. A 120" 2:35 screen in a room that size would look great, you can even probably go a little bigger truthfully. If your going 16:9 then you might want to go 110-120" and make sure that the second row will be able to see over the front rows heads and see the bottom of the screen.

I don't understand the hesitation on the installer's part. I mean, in the end, it's your house. If you want a larger screen, go for it. Here's a shot of a 120" wide 2.35 image that I just took from the 2nd row. The tripod is at about 13-14 feet.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/3102534999_53292b876c_b.jpg

dude.. nice....
Picture looks awesome.
I assume that wide screen is more expensive than the other....

Now is there anything stating that, that type of screen is better for viewing movies only? I will be using it mostly for movies, but games and TV (packer games) as well. I don't care if the format changes during those and it doesn't fill the screen.

One of the av guys was saying that you will have to much neck strain from constantly moving your head from side to side if you sit to close.

Mounting the projector mount to the ceiling is probably the hardest part of it all, and that's still nothing. I would cut him out all together and isntal the equipment yourself.
Isn't there a lot of eq stuff that they have to do? or do they just guess?

Ok, stupid question, does the projector dictate what screen you get, or the other way around. I really like the looks of that carada screen (I actually think I could assemble that... :) ). If it is good for gaming and some TV stuff then it would be cheaper than the AV guys have. All I have seen is the dalite stuff... Anyone have any opinions on the difference between those?
I didn't think I could fit in a 1080 projector in my budget, but if I can use my receiver, mains and subs and only get a new center and surrounds then I could save more money for a better projector...
What kind of projector do you have?

dude.. nice....
Picture looks awesome.
I assume that wide screen is more expensive than the other....

Now is there anything stating that, that type of screen is better for viewing movies only? I will be using it mostly for movies, but games and TV (packer games) as well. I don't care if the format changes during those and it doesn't fill the screen.

One of the av guys was saying that you will have to much neck strain from constantly moving your head from side to side if you sit to close.


epayne,

If you are going to be watching a majority of movies with just a little TV watching then 2.35 screen would be the way to go. If you do a lot of TV watching football/gaming and a few movies then 16:9 would suit your needs better. However at the end it all boils down to what your preference is.

If you go with a 16:9 screen and you watch a lot of movies then you will have "letter boxing" or black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. If you go 2.35 and watch a lot of TV or gaming you'll have "pillar boxing" and have black bars on the side of the screen. The black bars don't bother me at all so I'm going 16:9 at about 114"-120" diagonal.

I personally think in a room your size you won't have too much problem with neck strain, but in theory he is right. If you sit too close or have too big a screen for the room you will have to look from side to side to get all of the image. Kind of like when you sit in the very front row of the theater and get that "in your face" view of the screen.

Regards,

RTROSE

I should re-state... 85% of viewing will be on the Samsung rear projection DLP TV in the living room. the other 15% will be movies (SD and HD DVD's), laser disc (yeah still have one with about 100 movies) xbox 360 games and ps3 games (and packer game 18 times a year, no way they are making the playoff this year)

I should re-state... 85% of viewing will be on the Samsung rear projection DLP TV in the living room. the other 15% will be movies (SD and HD DVD's), laser disc (yeah still have one with about 100 movies) xbox 360 games and ps3 games (and packer game 18 times a year, no way they are making the playoff this year)


I bet you that once you get your theater up and going you'll be watching your theater more than what you think you will. I know there are those who will want to shoot, draw and quarter, and other wise torture me but I think you would benefit most from an 16:9 screen. JMHO

I think most here would at least agree with me regarding the fact they watch more on the big screen than they thought they would.

Regards,

RTROSE

mn_hokie,

I am not sure I understand the difference between the precision and the criterion. I see the description, but it sounds like it is just construction of the screen itself?

Thanks

The criterion has a thicker frame. I believe it's beveled as well. To me, it wasn't worth the extra expense.

What model projector do you have again?
And since you took a screen shot I assumed you already assembled the screen... was it difficult? The manual instructions make it look really easy..

I have the Panny AE3000 projector, and yep - screen assembled :)

I posted some detailed shots of the screen installation in my thread if you want to check it out. Putting it together was pretty easy. I had a friend help and I think we maybe spent an hour tops on the whole project.

I think I can hold off on the whole front of theater (facial) for now, just put up a screen and leave speakers on the floor (not like I would put those MTX up on stands:) ).
As far as figuring out how big of a 2.35 to 1 screen I can get... I have 16' (and some change) width. I probably should leave some room on either side for speakers... 3 feet a side ??? 2 feet?.. This would leave 10' or 12' for screen. Will that Panosonic AE 3000 projector from my distance accommodate that screen size?
I think there is a place downtown that sells Panasonic projectors, I hope to go see one today...

Few picks of the construction process so far

Land 4 acres, building on right 2 acres leaving left 2 acres wild
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3204/3110325087_e8465890a5_b.jpg

Stripping the land
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3136/3111161996_15930b40bc_b.jpg

Concrete being poured
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3190/3111170220_7f5ecc6bb5_b.jpg

From side
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3126/3110338179_c291c3a0e8_b.jpg

Basement, Home theater will be centered on back wall
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/3110343169_ae748520db_b.jpg

Still working on dimensions so distance is a little off, but over all layout is kind of what I wanted.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3011/3110587359_236c5b3074_o.jpg

Looking through the stairs into the home theater room
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/3115825637_bb9cb9ff0f_b.jpg

Side view
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3205/3116652452_49d3372bca_b.jpg

I don't think I've ever seen interior basement walls build before the slab was poured...

Am I missing something? :)

I was wondering that myself :)
Actually they did pour the foundation already, which is what the load barrings walls are attached to. I thought they said they pour the basement floor later.
I am going to be asking them that later today...

So yeah under the snow there is at least hay and under that I know there is concrete down there someplace :) but I don't think that is the final slab.... They build 15-20 houses a year, I would hope they know what they are doing.... unless the sub zero weather has gotten to them... I don't see how they can work out there in that type of weather, but all the builders now build all year round...

I don't think I've ever seen interior basement walls build before the slab was poured...

Am I missing something? :)

We build that way all the time here ... the idea is that the basement walls get poured first ... then the house is framed ... then the mechanicals get roughed in ... when the house is closed in we can put portable heaters inside and get the frost out of the ground in the basement and finish off the plumbing that would be under the slab ... when that is done we put the gravel base/rebar/vapour barrier and pour the basement floor ;)

The whole time this is happening the insulation/drywall etc is continuing upstairs

We build that way all the time here ... the idea is that the basement walls get poured first ... then the house is framed ... then the mechanicals get roughed in ... when the house is closed in we can put portable heaters inside and get the frost out of the ground in the basement and finish off the plumbing that would be under the slab ... when that is done we put the gravel base/rebar/vapour barrier and pour the basement floor ;)

The whole time this is happening the insulation/drywall etc is continuing upstairs


Makes sense... though I'd think they still want to wait on the interior basement walls. They could easily frame out and seal the rest of the house, get all the rough work done, pour the floor and THEN build the basement partitions. I guess there must be enough savings to only have the framers out for one stretch.

If you notice there is three layers of floor studs, these are specially treated and the basement floor is poured up to them.

Well the builders got back to me about the theater construction cost. Total is $9,800.
This includes everything in that last rendering I did.

Below is the break out.. he is saying that he might be able to shave a little bit off of this, but he said unless you build it all yourself this is way under what it would cost someone to come back in later to build. Note: this price includes again everything in that last render (stage, riser, sofitts, paint, electrical, trim, cabinets, carpet.. oh and this would include single layer of drywall on the inside, a single layer on the outside with insulation in between) all of it.

Plans $50.00
Framing $1,300.00
Building Materials $1,265.96
Purchase Trim $325.00
Heating $700.00
Electrical $1,497.00
Insulation $600.00
Plastering $910.00
Paint $738.30
Carpet $700.00
Hang Trim and Doors $417.30
Lighting allowance $250.00
Closet Shelving Allowance $200.00
Smart Fees $500.00
Miscellaneous $375.00

TOTAL: $9,828.56

So obviously this is my whole buget.. nothing left over for equipment. So far my wife and I have saved on average about $1,000 on every allowance we have had. We have a few more to do that are big ticket items (flooring, lighting, plumbing, etc) we hope to save more there... The concrete guy said if he is paid in cash he would take 10% off... So the 27k would be down 2,700 (price of the Panasonic AE3000 projector)..

Makes sense... though I'd think they still want to wait on the interior basement walls

Actually what you see is the load barring walls, not all the interior walls. We are not finishing the basement yet (hopefully the home theater room though). So we are just studding the basement for now.. So they pour the footings first (under the basement slab) and then the load barring walls are on top of that.

Ok,

Unless I'm way off base the cost for your build (having it done vs. DIY) does not seem too far off for having a turn key room minus equipment. The only place I see (in my opinion) that might be a tad high is the paint and electrical but over all I really don't see anything that raises a red flag.

I was thinking about my build to date and I think I have approximately four grand in mine and it is all DIY except electrical. The four grand includes electrical, framing, lighting fixtures, most of the cables, new basement windows, some miscellaneous tools, and a new water softener.

Regards,

RTROSE

The paint includes the paint itself, the labor as well as the crown modeling staining door trim staining and cabinet staining.
The electrical includes 6 can lights, 4 floor lights, and 3 separate dedicated electrical circuits (one for compute rack, one for ht equipment and one for projector).
The HVAC price includes additional duct work above the ceiling for the future basement finish expansion (which will need to go through that room, so they have to do it now before the drywall goes up).

Yeah, I fully believe him when he is telling me this, he has gone back and forth with his guys and keeps getting lower prices... there is a ton of stuff it seems that he really isn't making money on. Don't get me wrong, I am sure he is making money, but we get to see all the costs and as you can see from the detail list above, they are only charging 500 for them to do it (plus he is talking about cutting that as well). so that is what... on fifth of the cost that goes in their pocket....

Boy the builder really wants a home theater to show off in the house. After telling him the cost he came up with is all of my budget, he came back with this offer
Plans 50
Framing 1,100
Building Materials 1,145
Purchase Trim 180
Heating 700
electrical 911
Insulation 475
Plastering 780
Paint 500
Carpet 650
Hang Trim and Doors 417.30
Lighting allowance 150
Closet shelving Allowance 150
Smart Fees 500
Miscellaneous 375
For a total of 8024.26

Now I have heard him in the background on the phone really pressuring his subcontractors and basically saying, I need this, I really need this. You need to give me a better price... cut the labor for me and we can work something out later...

I fully trust that he is indeed giving the best price he can... I just need to make up about 3,500k in other places, which I was well on my way too until my wife and I went to the sink and plumbing place.. she (not me) ended up going over by 600 bucks... I got to pick the laundry room and garage sink faucets (yep, the cheapest ones). She wanted the air jet tub, the extra sprayer for the tub, fancier faucets, etc.... I don't mind giving her want she wants... but it will cost her ;)

Another AV guy got back to me with his quote ... funny, no one likes to use my speakers.. they all want to perfectly match the speakers.. Ok, call me stupid, but I used my set of speakers for years and loved them.. I have been into the show room that had the 80k Paradigm signature speakers and listen to them.... I am not sure I could tell the difference.. but no way in hell they were 80k worth it...

Here is what he came back with
1080P Tru Hd Ceiling mounted projector 2699 (I believe this is the AE3000)
Sanus Ceiling mount bracket 149
Phase Tech front floor standing speakers 660 (for two)
Phase Tech Center channel speaker 232.50
Phase Tech 10" 250 watt subwoofer 741 (for two)
Da-Late Da-snap cinemascope on wall screen (about 96")
Phase Tech on wall Bi-pole speakers 487.50 (for two)
Audio Quest Interconnect allowance 350
monster Cable Surge protection for tv, phone & power strip 99
leviton HD TV Jack 18
total cost 6,274.35.

he did not really say how much installation cost is (but it should be in there somewhere)

he did not really say how much installation cost is (but it should be in there somewhere)

Typically, the installation and wiring are additional costs (and not included in the equipment quote). Oops just noticed you have an Audio Quest allowance so you are covered for the wiring. At least he didn't go for monster on that one. I've used AQ in the past and have been very happy with their performance.

epayne,

It is actually better to use all timbre matched speakers ie. matched speakers from the same manufacturer and from same model line. Doing it this way is supposed to create a seamless sound field where the transition from speaker to speaker is not noticeable because the speakers "sound" different. I'm not saying the 80k speakers are worth it (they aren't to me either) but I think that is why you are running into some resistance in using your speakers. The house you are building is a "show house" and everyone wants to put their best foot forward. I can't remember what speakers you have but I think if someone puts their name on the theater design in a show home hopefully in an effort to "toot their own horn" they just want to make sure it is a worthy and worthwhile investment for them too. Just be careful that you don't get hosed in the process.

I'm not familiar with Phase Tech but 2121.00 for speakers doesn't sound too over the top. Yes you could definitely go cheaper (a little) but you could just as easily spend twice or even triple you current speaker budget without breaking a sweat.

Switching gears. I like the fact you have included construction photos in your thread. I like to see the progress of homes thought the construction process so feel free to continue to post those as you get time.

Well as for the wife getting her faucets and jetted tub that is just a sacrifice you are going to have to make to keep her happy and on an even playing field. Hey honey you know I let you have your sprayer and the jetted tub, so will you let me have (insert HT equipment wish here). That is only fair you know.

Regards,

RTROSE

What are "smart fees"? Electrical may be a tad high, but everything else looks ok to me.

Also, if that is the Panny AE3000, you can get it for $200 less than that quote. Also, if we're checking the list twice, I believe the Sanus mount is $70.

It is actually better to use all timbre matched speakers ie. matched speakers from the same manufacturer and from same model line.
Understood... I will do what I can, but as you all have offered.. it is probably better to get the most out of the room you can now and upgrade components later...

Switching gears. I like the fact you have included construction photos in your thread. I like to see the progress of homes thought the construction process so feel free to continue to post those as you get time.
Thanks... I have all my pictures posted Here (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/play.aspx/New%20House?ref=1)
But I will embed specific pictures in the posts

Well as for the wife getting her faucets and jetted tub that is just a sacrifice you are going to have to make to keep her happy and on an even playing field. Hey honey you know I let you have your sprayer and the jetted tub, so will you let me have (insert HT equipment wish here). That is only fair you know.
Ha, yup... I have said that a few times in the process... now she has even said a few times when I rolled my eyes at the price of some of the stuff she picked out that.. well you are spending a hell of a lot more money on your theater room

Also, if that is the Panny AE3000, you can get it for $200 less than that quote. Also, if we're checking the list twice, I believe the Sanus mount is $70.
I did bring that up in an email reply to him, waiting to see what he says now.

What are "smart fees"?
Smart fee's are what the builder (Smart Custom homes) is charging himself.. so yeah all of those other prices are directly from the subcontractors.. they are not all marked up.. I think 500 for a general contractor roll on this is actually cheap... he has even said he will see if he can cut that as well.. I told him I will give him 1 year free admission into the theater room if he does (popcorn not included) :)

The builders are really great, the other builders that we talked with couldn't even come close to what these guys are putting in. For example, yesterday when we were picking out the brick, the builder mentioned that the new look is to put some accent brick on the inside of the house, like in the foyer.. I told him yeah it looks kewl but it is too much. he asked the brick guy and said for that small of an area we can do it for 500 bucks... I said that is nice, but that is 500 I can't spend in the home theater room... After him and his wife (it is a family builder team) talked a little they said, well... it is a showcase... we will split the cost with you.... So not bad in my mind.. I am not completely gullible.. .I have said no to things in the past without a problem... But these are the type of things that I want to hear.. There are many many more area's like this.

Ok, so I don't fully understand this and I might mess it up, but for that Panasonic AE3000 1080 projector. When you do the zoom in so the letterboxes are above and below the screen. Does that actually mean the actual image you see (full screen) is not really 1080 anymore? Since a 2.35 to 1 movie on a 16x9 screen is full 1080 (which includes the letterboxes), if you are only using the middle section of that resolution, and blowing it up (zooming) does that not lower the 1080?

Updated construction photo's Here (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/play.aspx/New%20House?ref=1). (First floor framing)
Latest photo's are at the end, you can click on album and skip the slide show.


Ok, questions about risers in home theater room. What purpose is having the risers decoupled from the wall and what happens if this is not done?

Thanks

Anyone out there know of a good online store for cheaper plumbing fixtures (not cheap, decent quality.. just cheaper than the local store that is way over charging).

Where did you go? Any updates to share?

Regards,

RTROSE

Went up north for the holidays with the family. Got some snowmobiling in and relaxed a lot.

As far as progress.. I just ordered all my cat 5e, coax and speaker cable for the house (about 6000 feet) from monoprice.

I should be able to do the wiring next weekend. We will have the electrical walk through this Thursday.

I don't have any new pictures yet, but the roof is almost all on and the basement is all closed up and heater running to thaw the ice out.

Anyone have experience with the pioneer elite projector (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/HomeEntertainment/PlasmaTVs+Monitors/EliteProjectors/ci.PRO-FPJ1.Kuro)

A local AV place need to take this one down to put up the new epson. They are going to give me a price back soon and just wondered if I should consider it. I know, I know, all depends on price, just look for a yeah definitely or a stay away from it. They will be selling the anamorphic lens as well (not sure what model yet).

I would say with a MSRP of 9000.00 they would have to seriously reduce the price to make it a good deal for you (considering your budget) with the anamorphic lens too. Those aren't cheap either. The only thing is with the link you provided I can't find the lumens (or the brightness) for the projector. My only concern is if it was a demo how many hours are on the bulb and the max brightness of the pj. Otherwise the specs look good, but I seriously doubt they will come through with a buster of a deal that will keep you in your budget. Not to rain on you parade, sorry. I would say if you could get the pj and the lens for 3 or 4 big ones it would be a pretty good deal. JMHO.

Have you seen the pj in action? That would give you an idea if it will work for you or if you even like it.

Regards,

RTROSE

Have you seen the pj in action?
yes I have, it is nice, but you are right, it is on all day every day...

yes I have, it is nice, but you are right, it is on all day every day...

tell them you will consider it if they sell it to you for $1500 and throw in a new bulb :D

More Pictures (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/play.aspx/New%20House?ref=1).
I know, I know, way too many pictures, but I would rather have too many.....

Latest pictures on bottom of the album

Note: Use Internet explorer… Firefox doesn’t seem to like the slide show too much

I had a chance to see the Panasonic AE3000 projector today....
Now I might not know everything about projectors (ok, nothing) but I do know what I like... right out of the box it was gorgeous!!!

I think I have picked my projector.

I see from the ProjectorPeople add on these pages it says they are giving 50-100 instant savings off.... but it looks like it expired on the 30th... Anyone know if they give these deals all the time? Or special ones for AVS members?

So I am suppose to meet with the framer on Monday about building the risers. he understands the whole platform at the bottom of the stairs, but he is unsure of the whole decoupling from the wall... I told him to basically build them like you normally would, but make sure the dimensions are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the wall... The carpet will lay go over all the way to the wall so you won't see it.
Is there a better way to say it? or maybe some pictures of it?

Just to recap, when you go down the basement stairs, you stop on a platform three rungs up (24"). from there you walk into the theater. Three feet in you take an 8" step down to the back row of seats. From their on both sides you take an 8" step down, and then another 8" step down to the basement floor.

Here is the layout again.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/3101100450_825425cc0a_b.jpg

Wiring (network, coax, speaker) will be going in this Saturday... hoping to con a few friends into helping me out. I originally was going to run all the wires from the central closet in the basement up to attic, over to drop, then down the wall.. But after speaking with the electrician he said why bother? Most of the drops are near the floor anyways, why not run them under the floor (or ceiling in the basement) The basement rafters are I beams and they come with punch out holes all along the bottom, all you have to do is it one with a hammer and the pop out. I think it would save some time or at least some cable length (all though I already got all my cable... oh well.. I need a ton of patch cables anyways). T

For the speaker cable I was going to run 14x4 speaker cable (14 gauge with 2 pairs of cables in it) over to a location, then up to the volume control (near the light switches) in a room. Then run 14x2 (14 gauge with 1 pair of cable) from volume control up into the attic to the speaker locations (at this point I will be guessing at where that is). I will just leave about 3' of coil in the spot about where I want them, then I will tie them up to the rafters (So they are above the insulation).

So I am suppose to meet with the framer on Monday about building the risers. he understands the whole platform at the bottom of the stairs, but he is unsure of the whole decoupling from the wall... I told him to basically build them like you normally would, but make sure the dimensions are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the wall... The carpet will lay go over all the way to the wall so you won't see it.
Is there a better way to say it? or maybe some pictures of it?

Just to recap, when you go down the basement stairs, you stop on a platform three rungs up (24"). from there you walk into the theater. Three feet in you take an 8" step down to the back row of seats. From their on both sides you take an 8" step down, and then another 8" step down to the basement floor.

Here is the layout again.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/3101100450_825425cc0a_b.jpg
i would stay closer to the 1" off the wall dimensions. Walls are never completely straight. A 1/4" might have you off of most of the wall, but touching a high spot. The baseboard will take up most of the gap and the carpet will hide the rest.

Do you think I can get away with a 5' middle riser length instead of a 6'? This would give me another foot back for the front row of seats.

Also, should the stage be separated from the wall as well?

Do you think I can get away with a 5' middle riser length instead of a 6'? This would give me another foot back for the front row of seats.

Also, should the stage be separated from the wall as well?

If you are using recliners even 6' is a little short so I would not go to 5'.

Yes the stage should be separated from the wall as well.

Ah wait, I messed up the actual distance is 7' total, it was just 6' to the step. So I could probably go back another foot then.

Ah wait, I messed up the actual distance is 7' total, it was just 6' to the step. So I could probably go back another foot then.

What size screen did you decide on? 110", 120"? Your dimensions look fine to me. I would leave them as is. If you have recliners in both locations it will leave enough room for someone to walk by without having to place the seats upright.

I was hoping the biggest I can get, I was thinking of the Carada 128".. which is 10' and that would leave 3' on each side for speakers.

I was just worried the front seats are going to be too close.

I was hoping the biggest I can get, I was thinking of the Carada 128".. which is 10' and that would leave 3' on each side for speakers.

I was just worried the front seats are going to be too close.

Couldn't you also go with an acoustically transparent screen, mount your speakers behind the screen, and go LARGE?

CJ

I think 128 is pushing it... still not sold on the AT screens yet.. need to research them more.

I think 128 is pushing it... still not sold on the AT screens yet.. need to research them more.

I don't get it! How could you NOT be sold on an AT screen? Have you looked at ALL the threads here using them? How about when you actually go to the theater?

The AT screen would likely eliminate your stage and my guess is that you really want to keep it. That's fine, no problems with that. I have a friend that just built a theater. He didn't go AT either so that he could show off these "huge RBH tower speakers". Certainly he has that right, it is his money! :p

But I bet if you ask the masses they would go AT if they could. Most can't, due to room constraints.

That is just it, haven't researched them as much as I should yet.... Been reading a ton of other stuff.... never enough time.

That is just it, haven't researched them as much as I should yet.... Been reading a ton of other stuff.... never enough time.
I know the feeling! :o

So I think I know how to explain the risers and such, but how about the soffits?
I am sure he can build a box, but should it be drywalled? I know I will eventually need to put stuff in there, like maybe heating or the box for a star ceiling kit, but not sure what else.... Maybe just some time of removeable wood surface?

7 hours on Saturday and 5 hours on Sunday.

Ran 12 "main" drops each with 3 Cat 5e (TV - media center,Computer,Telco) and 2 coax.
Living room has 6 coax, 4 Cat 5e, 2 14x4 speaker
Ran 7 14x4 speaker wire to volume control in each room that is getting speakers as well as one cat 5e. Then from there 2 14x2 wire up to ceiling. Since I am not installing the speakers right now i just nailed the wire up high with enough slack to run anywhere in that room.
oh and yes... I ran one cat 5e behind the stove and one behind the fridge.... go ahead and call my crazy.. you won't be the first...

I thought I was all done, but realized that the office (or as my wife calls it soon to be the third kids bedroom) might need a 3 main drop since my desk seems to be too big for the corner I wanted to put it in (would cover the closet door). I will have to put it on the opposite corner... where there is no wire.... :(

Here are some pics of wiring (sorry, basement is very humid, they just poured the basement floor the day before).
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/3190142258_19ff78a9bb_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/3190141488_fd467b59df_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3514/3190143086_30ffed6957_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com3440/3190161838_65a4e65a75_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com3399/3189319533_7e6e5fdc28_b.jpg

yes... behind stove...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3461/3190271230_c1219958a6_b.jpg

And some pictures of the theater room itself.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/3189294749_3a2c48ec9d_b.jpg

Shot of both the home theater and the future bar, which the wife isn't too happy that I went from 15' width to 16' for my theater room, because it shrank the bar down a foot from 10 to 9.... there still room I think
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3190139064_b236b7af6d_b.jpg

From screen wall
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3442/3189300873_d1783797f3_b.jpg

From other side
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/3190145016_a93979536f_b.jpg

And if you are interested, here (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House) is some more photo's of the overall construction

I originally had some similar concerns about AT screens. I read a ton, but nothing can compare to viewing the real thing. I've been lucky in that I've been able to visit about 6-7 theaters here in Northern Virginia and have had the opportunity to see some really killer screens first hand. These were mostly AT screens. The picture quality was excellent, and the sound was even better. Having the sound localized to come from the screen is the best way to have it, IMHO.

Find someone in your area that has a build thread on here and fenagle a visit. You simply have to see one in person.

CJ

The framer is framing up the basement today as well as the theater risers and stage. The insulation guys are coming after that and the drywallers are coming on Friday.
Maybe I don't fully understand the process, but I think what is happening is the framer is building the riser and stage right now, but the drywall isn't up on the walls yet. so underneath and on the sides of the risers are going to be open to the other rooms... so no drywall inbetween.

I guess this is just how they work, framers are gone by the time the drywall crew starts to work... Should I insist he comes back after that drywall is up?
Remember I do have access to both sides of the room from the outside and eventually there will be drywall up on the outside...

The framer is framing up the basement today as well as the theater risers and stage. The insulation guys are coming after that and the drywallers are coming on Friday.
Maybe I don't fully understand the process, but I think what is happening is the framer is building the riser and stage right now, but the drywall isn't up on the walls yet. so underneath and on the sides of the risers are going to be open to the other rooms... so no drywall inbetween.

I guess this is just how they work, framers are gone by the time the drywall crew starts to work... Should I insist he comes back after that drywall is up?
Remember I do have access to both sides of the room from the outside and eventually there will be drywall up on the outside...
If you want to fully seal the room then you need the stage and riser to be built after drywall.

I just talked with them.. yeah so normally they build the theater room they don't do the de-coupling from the wall thing... but now since they are, they were just going to do the framing first, then only drywall the area on top as needed. I asked about the sides of the risers on the other side and they said they can put drywall up on the other side so you don't see it...

I just talked with them.. yeah so normally they build the theater room they don't do the de-coupling from the wall thing... but now since they are, they were just going to do the framing first, then only drywall the area on top as needed. I asked about the sides of the risers on the other side and they said they can put drywall up on the other side so you don't see it...

Slightly defeats the purpose of sealing the room then...

I guess they could build the stage and riser and move it out of the way to do the drywall since it shouldn't be attached to the walls anyway. Well, not with the size of your riser. That is a HUGE hole in the drywall! Why can't the framers come back later? Are they not building in the area anyway? They probably only need a half day to build it!

I am going out there in a bit to take a look...

Wow epayne11,

Looking good and making great progress. I like your cable runs they look very neat, good job on that too.

I gotta say I had been wondering about the pouring of the cement floor since the walls were framed beforehand. Looks like they did a good job on that. It actually seems to work out to your benifit because it provides a point of reference in order to best level the cement. In my HT room their was about a 2" drop on the cement floor from the front of my riser to the back wall. I was able to level it off with the riset but an extra thing to deal with.

Keep up the good work.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3083/3195750618_e1699ce80f_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3533/3194905561_ee0d0d5a3b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3446/3194904983_12681c75bd_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/3195748800_6c16097ea7_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3376/3194904431_c7616b88ce_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/3195751238_e2286e1295_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3194907215_0bbcb3528a_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3492/3194906673_ae4f77fb51_b.jpg

And far far more pictures of basement and the rest of the house here (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?uc=95&isFromRichUpload=1)

I really like how that riser area is starting to come together.

This is going to be NICE!! Keep the photos coming

Very busy day today. Electrical, heating, plumbing, insulation all going in today.
I will have to go there tonight to add a conduit for the projector cords because the drywall is going up on Friday.... very very busy..

I am not sure what you call it, but I need to get a wall plate.. well for the ceiling. I ran a 2" conduit in the rafters to the projector, but I need to put a plate up soon, so the drywall can go up. I can't seem to find it again, but I seen a post where someone had a type of wall plate that had a big hole in the middle with a slight curve and cover on it... I basically don't just want a plate with a big hole in it, but something that looks nice.... anyone?

Oh wait.. I think this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=3997&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) is it.
Are these a special order type thing, or do you think you can find them at a local home depot or some place like that.
Also, what type of box would this go to.. I mean not a standard one, because it would have to be bigger to allow all the wires to come through...

It's a bulk wall plate. You don't put that up until after the drywall though.

It's a bulk wall plate. You don't put that up until after the drywall though.


hokie is correct but you will need a box to properly mount the wall plate to. I doubt you could find those at the local big box stores, your av guys may even have them but more likely than not you'll need to order them from Monoprice. You can use a regular new work box for that wall plate you just may have to cut out the top of the box larger to accommodate the AV wiring but they will work. They do make "extra capacity" boxes which may work much better than the "standard" boxes.

Regards,

RTROSE

PM sent.

That is what I was going to reply with.... I think I saw those at HD or Lwes, but not sure. I will tell you that monoprice did have the cheapest price on those. You can get a single (like the one you have a link to) one for a single gang box, a double or a triple. You can also get a low voltage gang box..then you would attach the cable wal plate to this gang box.

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/seanandamypics/lowvoltagegangbox.jpg

I forgot to add that you can get a dual gang wall plate from monoprice as well. I'd either do that or run 2 single boxes and spit your cables. It's not the cables that are the issue with the plates, its the fat ass connectors.

Went out to the house for lunch to see the progress... soffits are up, stage is almost done.. There is about 30 guys out there doing everything so I couldn't take pictures. I hope to leave early to go back out to take some pictures, although everything might be done by then.....

So I snuck out early to take some more pictures. Crazy out there.. crazy.
The stage is done as well as the soffits..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3488/3199615165_24ba28124b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3487/3200461146_f408c3470b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3365/3199614139_82383ed041_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3474/3199613625_6801b28870_b.jpg

Conduit to projector
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/3200459554_f84b1d91c4_b.jpg

Projector location
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3100/3199612577_5738072e9a_b.jpg

Shoot from screen
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/3199615633_15206e2a87_b.jpg

I was cutting it close today.. before lunch I forgot that I need to put up a few boxes for the speaker wire above the stage (that will eventually be covered up by the facial boxes... way in the future). Then on the way back out there after work, I forgot about running the speaker wire to the right side of the stage... I grabbed a chunk I had left and quickly ran it.. just in time.. they were rushing down tons of sheets of drywall behind me.. weeshew..

Here are a ton more pictures (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?uc=54&isFromRichUpload=1) of the overall progress

I was a little worried at first when I seen where they put the wall light. I thought it was right where the speaker was going to be.. but after looking for a while I want the side speakers to be in the center of the two rows of seats, not in the center of the back seat........ right?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3329/3199738527_1ae2894599_b.jpg

I would place the sides at the head placement of the FRONT seats with the scone located where it is.

With 2 rows of seating the sides are placed between the 2 rows at ear height standing up or somewhere in between ear height on the riser and the lower level.

BTW everything is looking very nice.

Wow! They are making quite the progress! Looking good so far. If they are already moving drywall in the room will take shape very quickly. Good that you caught the forgotten speaker cable.

Keep the pics coming.

Regards,

RTROSE

I can't believe how dirty drywall and plaster is....
I didn't even get a chance to take pictures of just the drywall... here are some with plaster already up.. my wife and I choose a texture called skip trowel (I think). you can see them on the ceiling of some of the pictures..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3205423622_a158c0701a_b.jpg

Now that the room is closed in.. it is difficult to get a wide shot of the room.. every time I am in the room it looks really big (remember it is 16x21).. but from the pictures it looks really small.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3390/3204576871_6b232f6c2d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/3205425346_bc1bbf9508_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3341/3205424778_53f2c4f6bd_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/3204578651_83c38a432d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3521/3204579153_89b74abd4b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3098/3204579659_5337c198a9_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/3205427590_8f7ab6f0bc_b.jpg


I was a little disappointed to find out that the heating\cooling guy decided to just add a few cold air returns where ever he felt like it.. not sure if you can tell but this shot is from the outside view of the risers... these holes are for the returns... I told the builder they will have to move the left one because any pipe that will go up that wall will prevent an in wall speaker... although he has to check, he thinks those are just vents to the unfinished area and will not actually have ducts added to them... which doesn't make any since to me..
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3130/3205428284_7d75901188_b.jpg

As always.. here (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?uc=37&isFromRichUpload=1) are a few more of the house... some are nice.. but others are just boring drywall in some of the rooms

Like the ceiling texture. Contractors around here call it a "knock down" or "orange peel" finish. No matter what you call it, it looks really good.

It is incredible how dirty drywall work is. What is even more amazing it that you CAN actually get your house clean again after the work is done. Having done some small drywall projects myself is the exact reason why I will hire out that work for the basement.

Keep the pics coming, looking really good so far. Have you settled on any equipment yet?

Regards,

RTROSE

Have you settled on any equipment yet?
Have I settled? well.. it all depends on the bank really... I had a chance to see the Panasonic AE3000 projector and I was very impressed (course this is from my limited knowledge). I like the idea of the 128" carada screen (because it seems to be a good price). I know people have recommended AT screens as well.. still need to spend more time researching them.

Ok, so I can't seem to figure out why monoprice has difference in color between the wall plates and jacks.

tech support said:
Well the only blank inserts we provide are in ivory and white. The only banana jacks we have come in beige and white...not too sure how that works or why we don't offer matching ones. I apologize for the inconvenience

I believe we are getting almond color plates through the house.. not sure if beige or ivory is closer in color for that.. but both the cat and coax are different colors.. I think that would look very cheesy...

Here is a thought.

Why don't you purchase white, use some sandpaper rough them up spray some primer on them then paint them a color your using in your room. Labor intensive but very effective.

Just a thought. It is odd they don't carry all colors in all their product lines it would only make sense.

Just as an aside my wife has papered outlet covers to match the boarder and paper the switch cover is on.

Might be an option if nothing else pans out for you.

Regards,

RTROSE

haha you funny.... Like I have time or patients for that :)
I think there was 320 openings in the house... yeah... no time... :)

Well I did not say it was a good idea! I also thought it was just for the theater and not for the entire home. Sorry. I never said I was full of GOOD ideas just that I was full of it! 8-)

Regards,

RTROSE

I wrote monoprice a letter asking to get all the parts in almond... we will see if they reply..
I think the only constant color for all the jacks and wall plates is white.. but like I mentioned I have all almond plates... some of the plates will be right next to eachother.. so you will be able to notice pretty easily...
I don't see anywhere else on the net that I can get monoprice prices...

epayne11

First you are going to have a GREAT theater when this is finished. Keep those photos coming.

I share your frustration with the wall plate color issue. for my theater room only - I have decided to go with the sand/paint option.

Side Note:

I thought of a similair name (different spelling for our theater). Because;

When my wife answers our home phone her greeting is "House of Pain, how may I help you..? Sure throws the telemarketers off balance - some even hang up :)

Thanks

If it was only the theater room then I wouldn't care too much since it is mostly dark in there.. it is the 30 network drops I did through out the house...
On a side note, I did receive an email from monoprice asking what color I wanted... crossing fingers....

Eric,

Thanks a lot for the pictures. I'll ask our purchasing people to carry them in Almond color. Thanks again for your great support.


Hey!!!.. Now we have to find out how long it will take..

Eric,

Thank you for your email again.

I don't think we will be able to have all the items in stock in short time. We need to send a sample to factory in China and will have to wait more than 2 months to receive actual sample... If you can't wait at least 3 months, I would recommend you to purchase them from other supplier for now. I'll send a sample to factory as soon as factory people come back from CNY vacation to see what they can do.

Truly sorry for any inconvenience it may cause you.

Should you have any question, please let me know. Thank you for doing business with us.

Well I tried.. at least it is good news that they will start to stock the items.

Anywhere else on the net that has good deals for wall plates and jacks that someone can recommend?

My electrician decided to throw in 30 blank light almond wall plates for me. This will be good enough for the showcase, then when I move in, I can unscrew the few plates I NEED to have and directly connect the wires... Then I can wait 3 months and order the light almond plates and jacks from monoprice.....

I have 2 2 gang wall plates i need to put face plates and jacks on.
Is it possible to use 2 6 hole plates in one 2 gang box or do you HAVE to find a 12 hole wall plate?

Does that make sense?

2 regular 6 hole plates will not fit, though 2 decora 6 hole type will then you get a double decora wall plate.
http://www.smarthome.com/_/Cable_Structured_Wiring/Connectors_Jacks_Trim_Plates/Quickport_Keystone/_/v/1P5/2pt/nav.aspx

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=994067

They also have the 12 port wall plate at smart home.

Just sprayed.. that is why it looks so wet\shinny. They did add a softener\duller.. or what ever the hell you call it.. when it dries it should be good... very hard to get a real picture of the room because it is so dark... Actually I really don't like these pictures too much... still... for documentation...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3375/3220088931_06c20f9045_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3323/3220940398_b41c64f0ea_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/3220089027_b55b97cd64_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/3220940476_1422502ddb_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3491/3220940504_a4b6cb8501_b.jpg

Interesting! It reminds me of the indoor aquariums at the zoo! Maybe go with some kind of aquatic theme! :D

I just realized that I put the projector outlet on the wrong side of the mount!
DAMIT

I have 3 feet of extra conduit sticking on the outside of the theater wall, so i just MIGHT be able to push it in the rest of the way to be on the other side of that mount

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3100/3199612577_5738072e9a_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/3200459554_f84b1d91c4_b.jpg

Anyone have a quick picture of the Panasonic AE3000 (or any other for that matter) with one of those CHEIF low profile mounts? Can you run a cable through there?

Man I don't really want to do that...

Interesting! It reminds me of the indoor aquariums at the zoo! Maybe go with some kind of aquatic theme!

I just wanted a dark blue... they show you like a hundred different shades of blue on a 1 inch square.... not sure if I like the color...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/3223719287_8f53cea49d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/3223718773_3914ff966c_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3223718249_fec4901bfe_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3346/3223717713_e2a8e3de4e_b.jpg

More Picutes (http://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?uc=46&isFromRichUpload=1)

All pressure treated wood on the floor, so shouldn't be too bad after cleanup. What happened?

The garage needed to be flooded out because the sand that was poured in was on top of snow and frost.. This is a typical thing they do during the winter... They seal the garage, heat it up and flood it out... You have to do this before you pour the concrete otherwise the concrete will sink once it does thaw.

Basically the water from the garage was draining down to the floor tiles around the house, sump pump pumped out the water outside. Plumbers put up a temporary PVC pipe to shoot the water out, but unfortunately it was not long enough. The water pooled up near the house and then eroded down about 5 feet then back to the house and floor tile. So basically constant water in the garage kept re-circulating to the point that the floor tiles just overflowed.

Yes there is pressure treated or green board wood on the bottom. The drywall is actually blue board which is more water resistance than regular drywall. All the insulation under the risers will have to be replaced. possibly part of the drywall on the bottom.

Builder was pissed at the plumber but said this happens sometimes during the winter... they will take care of it, not to worry, etc, etc, etc. Needless to say.. the wife was balling..

On a side note... The blue color of the room turned out much better than I anticipated once it was dried.. course.. I only had a flash light..

Dang, sorry to see that dude. Hopefully they will get it fixed for you.

On a side note... The blue color of the room turned out much better than I anticipated once it was dried.. course.. I only had a flash light..

Sorry to hear about the flooding issue, however it seems as though your builder/plumber have dealt with the issue before so they should be adapt at fixing/repairing the problem.

On a brighter note I'm glad to see your keeping your positive attitude and happy to hear that the paint color worked out for you.

Regards,

RTROSE

The builder did re-assure us several times that it is winter and the house isn't completed and because of having to flood out the garage these things sometimes happens. We don't have to pay a dime and they will make sure it is all cleaned up and fixed. Our main concern was if this was going to happen again in the future.

Spent 3 hours with one of the builders on Saturday sweeping and squeegeeing out the basement. He told me over and over again that I didn't have to help, but I felt I should. We took out all the insulation under the stairs. In fact, good thing it was open on the sides so we had easy access to it, otherwise we would have had to rip up the riser boards to get to them.

Went back yesterday and the basement is pretty dry now, still have some fans blowing.. other subs have to go back in and cleanup all their crap they left in the basement.

Lighting is going in today so I should be able to see what the home theater room looks like without a flash light finally, it sure is pretty dark in there without one.... almost to dark :). I let the builder pick out all the lighting, they seem to know our taste... Lighting is something I really don't care about because it is something that you can easily change later on down the line if I don't like it, like paint. He picked out some interesting looking sconces.

I still need to pick out the carpet for the basement. I went to carpet city and menards and I just can't pick anything out... I have no idea what goes with dark blue wall color. I want something comfortable and not gaudy. I am not a fan of the popcorn and reel carpet.

The rest of the house is coming along. They are bricking the front and putting siding up on the sides and back, tile floors are starting today, wood floor by end of week. The concrete floor for garage is going to be poured Tuesday. Cabinets will be installed first thing next week.

If I had it to do over again, I would lay the steps out like this. (mirrored on both sides). Right now when you are in front of the media rack hole, you have to bend down...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3405/3229730272_0c9efed39c_o.jpg

Wow, big pictures.... I know, I need to clean my lens.
Went by to look at lights, but electricians have to re-route some wires.
The first picture looks closer to what the color is, it is not light at all, very deep dark blue

http://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGZW3NLdQ96cXA1M8bNU_MeZZiwP5T7ve9NqqqLgnf0LI8L4d-BPslDt030mI28eh0YtMQQaMi9o/DSC05065.jpg

http://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1rSTZZUKlWPSCbgQvLcUlnl8Ywq8srHR0hBneT5CM82aRSSK8yLec6tVM p-mt-w5ZFsCMj804N8/DSC05066.jpg

http://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pegK0-24hXxPy7HCbG03cYIZNwlTk8bulY0r1q8LFazWbv36EQNAxKjkwtlbk2PjOs 7TKEK3uX54/DSC05067.jpg

It's not the lens, its all the dust in the air :)

Looking good. I also like the idea of an aquatic theme.

I too like the color, but not necessarily the aquatic theme. IMO to easy to do cheesy. You could definitely do a nautical theme though, that is much more classy.

Regards,

RTROSE

Yeah I was just going for the standard blue movie theater look... I have seen more and more of those in recent years, prefer them to the standard red color

Anyone have a quick picture of the Panasonic AE3000 (or any other for that matter) with one of those CHEIF low profile mounts? Can you run a cable through there?

Man I don't really want to do that...

Here you go homey, if you don't have a photo already. There's like a 1.5" hole down the center of the mount, so you definitely can run cable through that. Sorry for the crappy photo..
http://www.javadoc.net/pix/basement/pj-mount.jpg

Great thanks.
So the outlet is on the right hand side of the machine (panasonic AE3000)?
Also, do you need to have a piece of wood below the drywall to hang the projector mount like you have it? I just had them put up some wood in between the joice about a 2 foot area like this. Then drywall is under it.... Thought it would be better to hid that wood, hoping that is ok. Also builder is going to add another outlet for project on the other side, no big deal, that way if I ever change projectors in the future I have one for what ever side the outlet is on. The conduit I will leave with 3 feet of extra so I can push or pull depending on the side and the builder will put up another box on each side for the 2 gang open recessed outlet for cables.

http://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pLwonYLk9AqjOT86nSUHqavIv_yxiVbNliy1KmaUvaS8Dmhf7m0e9FfwYU s9P61Ab0Bo8WSqZlks/DSC04828.jpg

http://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1DzH_uLU-fETEjbiUH-eR1e58uoAnEOH7AtgPkeOzK6lyT5P8wNai7E6lld8cMa8D5dy73E8U8Q/DSC04855.jpg

Well the builder stopped by tonight to give us a breakdown on all the numbers of the house, costs, overages, credits, etc. Turns out we did save money so I will have money left over for home theater equipment.

Wife just told me to go ahead and order the projector and wires..... that's right, go ahead and order them now...

Doing a gut check right now if I really should spend this kind of money on a projector.... I want to get the Panasonic AE3000 based on all the recommendations I have seen here. I will hold off a week for the screen (Carada) to make sure I get the exact size I need.

Dude, buy the Panny now... before she comes to her senses!!! :D

The Panny 3000 would be my choice if I were buying right now.

Not of the home theater, but the rest of the house. (https://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?ct=photos&sa=55581818) Tile and wood flooring are in.

On a side note, I put the order in for the Panasonic AE3000 projector and mount yesterday.. should be here by wed of next week....Figure I would try to mount it by the end of the weekend to judge the size of the screen.

I still need to talk with the electric guy about moving the projector outlet to the other side of the mount.. actually I am just going to add another one on the other side. I also need to figure out what box and plate I am going to put in for the HDMI cables.

Circuit City in town is going out of business and are having sales.. I picked up 2 23-37" TV wall mounts for 47 each... about 40 bucks in savings. Sales guy said they hope to have everything gone by the end of February... Right now sales are 20-40%.. I am going to go back every few days to see what kind of deals they are going to do for some of there receivers and speakers... I really don't have the money for it, but if the right price comes along, who knows.. they have a nice Onkyo receiver there for 800 bucks that is 10% off... would like to pick that up, but want 25% or more.

Not of the home theater, but the rest of the house. (https://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?ct=photos&sa=55581818) Tile and wood flooring are in.

On a side note, I put the order in for the Panasonic AE3000 projector and mount yesterday.. should be here by wed of next week....Figure I would try to mount it by the end of the weekend to judge the size of the screen.

I still need to talk with the electric guy about moving the projector outlet to the other side of the mount.. actually I am just going to add another one on the other side. I also need to figure out what box and plate I am going to put in for the HDMI cables.

Circuit City in town is going out of business and are having sales.. I picked up 2 23-37" TV wall mounts for 47 each... about 40 bucks in savings. Sales guy said they hope to have everything gone by the end of February... Right now sales are 20-40%.. I am going to go back every few days to see what kind of deals they are going to do for some of there receivers and speakers... I really don't have the money for it, but if the right price comes along, who knows.. they have a nice Onkyo receiver there for 800 bucks that is 10% off... would like to pick that up, but want 25% or more.

Which Onkyo was it? I was at CC today and saw they had the 806 for that price + 10% off. Funny thing is that I bought it new from Crutchfield several months ago for even less than that.

Which Onkyo was it? I was at CC today and saw they had the 806 for that price + 10% off. Funny thing is that I bought it new from Crutchfield several months ago for even less than that.

So far I have been disappointed in my local CC. They tool all of their prices back to full retail and then started discounting from that.

I went in the day before the announcement and there was a 50 plasma for 999.00 went back in on Sunday to see their "sale" and the same tv was 1199 or 10% of the original retail. By the time the deep discounts occur all of the good stuff will have be gone.

I would get your PJ mounted and "play" with the screen size to see what works for you before you just blindly order a screen. Take the time to find what works and you won't ever look back or be disappointed. BTW the rest of the house is looking really good too.

Regards,

RTROSE

Funny thing is that I bought it new from Crutchfield several months ago for even less than that.
How do you like it?

I've been pleased with it. It powers my room well, has a ton of inputs, is THX Ultra 2 certified, and does HDMI switching as well. For the money, I couldn't find anything even close in options.

I read some reviews of complaints on setup, did you have any problems?

I should just buy everything you are.. since i have been already... :)

There are a handful of people crying over in the 806 thread, but I've had no issues. Like any piece of equipment, the issues you hear about could come down to what's being hooked up to it, the type of projector/TV, even the cables.

So far I have been disappointed in my local CC. They tool all of their prices back to full retail and then started discounting from that.

I did pick up two 23-37 TV wall mounts for 47 each... about 20 bucks off net prices as far as I can tell..

Right
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pDNfY5lxMTKaGoWZbRR4LT3dL3X_smkbyXrXGx95pQ305mTQ8TrdN4qpGh ysQM-txDt9nW9_xe6Q/DSC05205.jpg

Left
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ppbvpDv4OlxFDETP5NbxDuF_9L6InWsWzIemMaIl863geUEGli_mY2qzOa kyhWBDQ2OM_9R5pyN4/DSC05206.jpg

Wall texture
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pScjsDswc3y2zB-lWWa64gFRGzrPKnw5zRJGOD6F02pEZdZOKyD2hLpw1gTx66UkfheFdLcwzMu 4/DSC05207.jpg

I have yet to get a perfect picture of what the room color really looks like. This is close but still looks to light in color
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pLSvucZPtzLQ-XCIvHRLpwdmUwcavCIGez1XHBi-c0droN9x8PoOubxUZGtTErQG6DDEuFMeSqjs/DSC05201.jpg

Cabinets are in (https://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House?ct=photos&sa=113354635)

Looks like a knockdown finish on the walls?

I think they call it a skip trowl..

I still need to pick out the carpet for the basement. I went to carpet city and menards and I just can't pick anything out... I have no idea what goes with dark blue wall color. I want something comfortable and not gaudy. I am not a fan of the popcorn and reel carpet.


I had a basic, cheap gray carpet in my old place. I went budget since I knew I was moving at that point. I actually really liked it as it became sort of a non-issue choice.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/dc_pilgrim/DSC_0947.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/dc_pilgrim/DSC_0965.jpg

If I knew I was staying I would have gone with something like Biggie's:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00540.jpg

Hey, great thanks.. I was thinking about grey... if I ever changed the wall color to say a dark red or something I wouldn't have to change out the carpet... That paint color ... what is it called? .. Don't say blue :) .. But that looks more closer to mine than the pics I posted.

Well, it is the blue that Lowes came up with to color match the CK Blue "Janus" fabric from the Dazian line.

http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?action=show_style&style_id=246&group_id=

Before the move, the plan was to do fabric frames ala GPowers. Dazian Janus is an AT fabric like GOM, at 1/3 the price (and 1/3 the selection). Since I was going to have 70 or so frames butting up to each other, the idea was to paint the walls the same color as the fabric so that any install imperfections would be less obvious. We slapped a second coat up once we scrapped the accoustic treatment plan and rushed to finish and sell.

Why don't those darn UPS trucks have GPS enabled devices that we can watch online to see where they hell they are at??

I swear, I must be the last stop of their route, I always get packages after 5:00 PM...

I went from signing for UPS to full setup and watching Cars (only BR I have right now) in 15 min. That has to be some kind of record... HT is done.. HOUSE isn't even done... :)

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pumYxfv6bLVCmzNrxzNmXxBWoDct3dxbEPwd46GgZW6KExgBRTRfKu7pxJ X0Z2sZDnXHbchuQef9KTIeQ_aBMpw/DSC05278.jpg

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pfD7f56y1QOMlunhNssGXPWWj36VZySozk46Z2P3lLoeP9blULY8WoiFSy u93c8XoE2EVupzd_Wxz_9bMauhxaQ/DSC05283.jpg

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1psH3jSFSDfgUhWDxDIwdV3MpT_zh446wu7_T8wq6h5WSBrFHuHSimlIQw4 rkTnREy414Qz2uIIlWEHzZ3Ovgfcw/DSC05286.jpg

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXJZmFkm2DJTyTyWAjI0ffzUxdcOSK2CgxjAr16JCnWj_3N3DR9ByObx4p 1C5q5IxeLmRrkw_osOsLqCcVitm8A/DSC05297.jpg

I would have thought for $2,500 the remote would have had more buttons.
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pnO7VVAoodpgAuB-u326Nr5Sflb040Jj_QtDvp-lkGqoVFqdDiXoOKRyYdHtefXqrb2FFH_7IT9Rxvrn7E-o6dg/DSC05282.jpg

Now to try and figure out that damn RPA Chef projector mount....

From what I've heard, they simplified the remote this time around. i guess the AE2000 had more features. I kind of like it simple since I use a universal anyway. Think of it as a cost savings. :)

The RPA-U mount worked out well for me.. I have pics of mine being set up with my AE3000 in my thread.

I think you'll be happy with your AE3000... I still am, with well over 400 hours on mine. :)

Hey great thanks, I was just trying to search for AE3000 and RPA... kewl.
So, few questions.. I see there is 5 or 6 (can't remember now) screw mounts on the bottom of the projector... how did you know which one to connect the 4 screws from the mount to... was it just a guess as where the weight would be distributed.
I think I understand the projector mount piece.. find the proper screw mounts on unit and secure it down by moving arms and legs to right position. I am still unsure of the other piece how it screws to ceiling and how both pieces connect together.. I would like the ability to take it down for the first few days to take home until I move in. Worries that it is going to be too heavy and difficult to hold and
screw at the same time by myself.
Man those screws on that projector bracket are TIGHT.. I could only get one of them to unscrew.

Hey great thanks, I was just trying to search for AE3000 and RPA... kewl.
So, few questions.. I see there is 5 or 6 (can't remember now) screw mounts on the bottom of the projector... how did you know which one to connect the 4 screws from the mount to... was it just a guess as where the weight would be distributed.
I think I understand the projector mount piece.. find the proper screw mounts on unit and secure it down by moving arms and legs to right position. I am still unsure of the other piece how it screws to ceiling and how both pieces connect together.. I would like the ability to take it down for the first few days to take home until I move in. Worries that it is going to be too heavy and difficult to hold and
screw at the same time by myself.
Man those screws on that projector bracket are TIGHT.. I could only get one of them to unscrew.

I pretty much just used the holes that seemed to distribute the weight fairly well. One mistake i made was using the security cable screw hole instead of one of the bracket mount holes. Not a big deal. it's still up. :)

The RPA-U is in two pieces... the ceiling mount and the projector bracket. Screw the ceiling mount to the ceiling (I used 1/4" lag screws into 2x6 blocking I had under the drywall).

Next, secure the projector bracket to the projector.

Last, hold up the projector so that the screws built into the projector bracket portion feed up through the ceiling mount and apply the thumb nuts. It really only fits one way with the screws on the projector bracket screws feeding through the holes on the ceiling portion.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14976581#post14976581

Thanks, I will look again tonight. Do you think it really should be a two man job to hang it up, or can you do it by yourself?

Yeah... going to have to paint theses..
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p0lUDpkSjIPQEexsHu2zb0HcNRwvwHw1vpVZ7l8s2KCh-26w6DeCl07x31IApiSEw8qw0qq5FzOAGm2fLXG8Jkw/DSC05306.jpg

Yeah... going to have to paint theses..
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p0lUDpkSjIPQEexsHu2zb0HcNRwvwHw1vpVZ7l8s2KCh-26w6DeCl07x31IApiSEw8qw0qq5FzOAGm2fLXG8Jkw/DSC05306.jpg

Go for it. I had to do the same thing. A can of black spray paint works fine.
I see you got the answer to your mount question before I had a chance to respond.

I will wait for the paint till after the showcase.. two much other stuff going on.. unless I can get away from the kids long enough.. doubt it

So who lives in the Green Bay area that wants to help mount a projector... ;)

I hung it myself, though its definitely easier with two.

I will wait for the paint till after the showcase.. two much other stuff going on.. unless I can get away from the kids long enough.. doubt it

So who lives in the Green Bay area that wants to help mount a projector... ;)

If you can wait until Oshkosh I'll be up that way and help. :D If you can't wait that long maybe someone else can pitch in and offer a helping hand.


Regards,

RTROSE

If you can wait until Oshkosh
If I can wait until Oshkosh?

If I can wait until Oshkosh?

I'm hoping your question is rhetorical in nature and you are just appalled that an AVS "friend" would want you to wait that long. I was just kidding of course and for those of you who don't live in Wisconsin or not part of the Aviation world Oshkosh is a term for the City of Oshkosh BUT more importantly it is the ubiquitous term for the greatest airshow on the planet held typically at the end of July first part of August.

It is the equivalent of a Hoosier not knowing what the "Indy 500" is.

I would (if I just live a couple of hours away) help you in a heart beat. It would be my first projector mount, but not my first foray into the world of A/V installs. Besides I have mounted several garage door openers in my day, can't be too different than that right?

Regards,

RTROSE

You know I thought that is what you meant... EAA... but I wasn't sure.
I actually was born in Oshkosh and lived there for 15 years... I remember as kid we used to rent out a bedroom in the house for EAA. Back then the planes flew all over Oshkosh and the sky was filled with them. We could just put lawn chairs out in the front yard and watch. But then they only started flying over the airport...

I pretty much just used the holes that seemed to distribute the weight fairly well

Jamis... What did you use to secure the bracket to the ceiling?
I have rafters and wood above the drywall... instructions say to use lag bolts.... which I don't think I can use. I am afraid that just 4 standard wood screws won't be enough to keep the projector up.

Is this how it should be? the long part going from front to back?
I would think the swivel of the ceiling bracket would swivel from front to back, not from side to side..

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1peBjTGa3OijPgwsSlJhLORRnHJC7FpC0vHxNapSywRIC2NBhQrTGqkJRaz WZfqp-Pdnh4teQTACgnjoHrNigu1w/DSC05340.jpg

Screen shots of the projector in the HT... The projector is just sitting on a table, it is not mounted yet.

I think I will remove the outlets on the screen wall
https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pMtsFUZOAprhJde48s2XkvuKUnX9Ml8mc54RaVPHZw1jGgOGSAKFVVljZx eS4YXbAmIeEkag-7TlTPQYwx1nTGw/DSC05328.jpg

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pC87_TwXiprj6k7ysdnlxMzqKDPEwECsjyy54uXnNvXgkhLUfxisH9DsnD 7Xd1cGJmCWg-NMEdt47DTNxfQ_8ng/DSC05327.jpg

https://g7fkhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pArwEkajVc0xQGbXZOJ8tYbcXzyDhiU4AxdWfFL_b46nCWQgavXGdYdhHl iIpGFq8f_Us5aACwlpogu3SsyBbkw/DSC05326.jpg

So they guys down at the hardware store told me I should use this toggle bolt. They claim they use these to hang 100 pound chandlers.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pe6MW9jkzoxB3P2h64WIUAcMAlhVtiYedXi8jejaXLDNrUcbv9XbxXjlmD qyMGIigZ3v5Nbym2ztBmhbEXPtExA/DSC05351.jpg

So I bought four and connected them.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pMmH8pGF1u-RnGqC4D58gMkNX6MH23RdIlgYDVXeZQVUkcWkBV5D6DToOK2g2gMbJeyEmuP uM4jZyZo7PJiB-tA/DSC05350.jpg

I originally got the 4" bolt, but it was too small, so I had to go with a 6" one. The drywall and board is only about 3" thick, but you have to squeeze the wings together and push up the whole until they flip out.

Drilled the first hole and noticed it stopped... Figures.... nail. Drilled a second hole.... figures.. nail. The top two holes are where the nail is. The bottom two holes are the "nail free" holes"
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pI4uxqVrjF2FVcJFV5U4AHb_iTLvzwB7r39g5DUeBWvC2s1L5cltOv0n2x Kdp-2C0lReq0LTCVjsTFRyvo0JJlQ/DSC05349.jpg

Here is the bracket mounted. The front two bulits (near the screen) were fine, but the back two bolts were snug.. but I could feel the wings spinning so it is not perfectly tight. Now you would have to unscrew 3" before it would ever fall out. I think I will try hanging a paint can or something to the bracket then try to re-tighten them. I was able to pull down as hard as I could, going up on my tip toes and it didn't even think about budging.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pdIxfV6hxk7i3Ja40-09B9h8TvOPM51Nh1mLfhA_9FEFetwoO2gB5LkGuxTVvl3d_IB6UO8G9bBD9n UCMMO7IKw/DSC05352.jpg

All level..
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pocR5Bd7judwYWTuXqTTJQsL2ZhupJbI7p4gKepWO3WHgE07IFww4484zL UtJcP1oNPnZHi8K3rzPVP5Ua0S9jg/DSC05358.jpg

And finally projector mounted
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1povur5uRO_995Sm4ohgI9-7w4IAGNQDlKjzlInXTAYL2k5VfkfXtlBnw-mC4o7yvf-9P4qVByqcyMoRcn2sYr7A/DSC05361.jpg

Shot from the back coming into the theater room.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p2ET5Kmq_OBl9-TvqzBpcg49eij5pot_l7Xf22SWUGZjeNFyXc5Lu4G4vWz3elbB27vwmDeSek Oe-1LeBhi4dkw/DSC05362.jpg

Shot from front to back.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pfS8k56TixTKbIQ-s7tx4ftgcT1vu3nT-8Bddy6Qb__4u5u64OetPR2pBjWnfe6qoskxKJxR0Ddy_wsw251sbPg/DSC05365.jpg

I should get a job taping screens dimensions, I am soooo good at it.
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p_eE5fI5-H4_HAHlg7hUDIVytf047OgydeEjSVN5v6D5r9qdgx00eytXQjvJRnMToIZsE u7VADYo0diwRbzfMBA/DSC05367.jpg

Carada screen samples (Grey, Brilliant White and Classic),
http://slnhnq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p9DXK7tPJhXxn0zFUzqXNHrrjVLx3v2_PWKsgnut-iUZwuYwTX0IONJg7j90mrXV-2uAOpB2rw3Ted2inbknaLw/DSC05380.jpg

So I think I can safely say the Grey is out... I thought BW would be better, but I think the classic is brighter. I have not played with the projector modes or colors really yet, so I was just looking at normal mode. I read the differences on Carada, but still not sure. The room is dedicated and will be very dark. So i guess it is a question of the projectors brightness. Looking for AE3000 owners with Carada screens to chime in and offer suggestions.

Now as far as size... the tape is for a 136" Criterion. The width of the screen wall is 192. The 136 Criterion outside screen dimensions are 131.8 x 60. The speakers that I have currently (The 15 year old big MTX speakers that still work) are about 18" (I taped 20"). This left about 2" in between the speakers and the screen. Sitting in the back row or front row watching Cars didn't seem to effect me at all as far as eye strain. I originally was thinking 128" but I do have the room for 136. I figure since I am spending money why not get the biggest one I can.. I can always zoom down a bit... I don't know, the 128" is only 8" smaller.

BW has a higher gain than Classic Cinema, so it's definately brighter (1.4 vs 1.0 I believe). I wouldn't go less than the 1.4 with a screen size that big either.

136" to big or should I stick with the 128" ???
Ordering this morning

136" to big or should I stick with the 128" ???
Ordering this morning

You typically don't want your speakers right next to the wall. In this case I would actually go with the smaller screen to give you more room for not only your current speakers, but upgraded ones down the road as well.

I did tape them in 2" :)
Yeah that is what I was thinking to. The future stage will all be enclosed in and I think the point were the ceiling stage is and connects to the side, it would look weird......

I thought about the 136", but decided it wasn't worth the extra cash over the 128". My speakers are below as well, so kind of a different scenario. Trust me, 128" is PLENTY big :)

haha.. this is what David says from Carada, when asked, at which point is it big enough
“big enough” No such thing!! :-)

In the mean time, anyone need a 20' HDMI or a 25' component cable? (Don't ask why I got different size ones... no clue).
Yeah, straight shot and I would have had plenty left over... but because I had to route them differently they are to short.

In the mean time, anyone need a 20' HDMI or a 25' component cable? (Don't ask why I got different size ones... no clue).
Yeah, straight shot and I would have had plenty left over... but because I had to route them differently they are to short.

Keep it. Never know when you might need one! ;)

Yeah I will... just figured I would say how much of a handy man I am and how well I can measure.... :)

Yeah I will... just figured I would say how much of a handy man I am and how well I can measure.... :)

lol. I know the feeling. I have had to "stretch" a few cables myself. This is how I learned to staple the cables down AFTER they were run to their respective location, not WHILE they were being run. Saves time when you have to re-route something. :D

OK, 128" Criterion ordered... Should be here Monday... I really need to get that carpet in.

More house construction pics. (https://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House) I cut back the quantity of pictures I take now at each stage... :) Start from the bottom up.

More house construction pics. (https://cid-5f23f5537855e779.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20House) I cut back the quantity of pictures I take now at each stage... :) Start from the bottom up.

One word for you: GALLERIES

Set up your pictures in different galleries so it is easier to view. Sort them by date or something. Going to one gallery with 700 pictures takes too long.

ha.. yeah.. well...I wanted one big spot for the whole construction process. I did start one just for home theater room, but haven't linked to that yet.

OK, 128" Criterion ordered... Should be here Monday... I really need to get that carpet in.

Was just curious why you liked the Criterion more than the Precision. I bounced back and forth on the two.

Well.. a few things, from what I read from others who have it they said it gives a more finished\professional look. So instead of getting the 136" precision, I went with the 128" Criterion... about the same price...

Now the real reason... my accounting department said I could spend 1000 on the screen... so I got the more expensive one... thinking\hoping it is 100 better... :)

The builders just told me the house will be ready by next week Friday... so a lot of things are happening in the last two weeks.. Plumbing is going in today, brick is done, siding is almost done, trim is almost done. Next is carpet... Builder gave me a few samples of carpet I can use in the theater room... one is definitely out (looked like 70's carpet). The other two are a solid black or a solid dark blue.... I am going to bring the samples out there today to compare.
Few things I have concerns with.
All I hear from everyone about the black is that it will show dirt too much.
I also heard that if I went dark blue that it will look like I tried to hard to match the wall color and that you can never match a carpet color to wall color exactly...
The grey carpet they could find was more industrial looking and didn't think it was too comfortable... Kids will be sitting on it in the front, so I want it comfortable.
The room is plenty dark already, so I don't need to do black to help darken the room at all, but I doubt you will notice the blue at all when lights are off.

Well.. a few things, from what I read from others who have it they said it gives a more finished\professional look. So instead of getting the 136" precision, I went with the 128" Criterion... about the same price...

Now the real reason... my accounting department said I could spend 1000 on the screen... so I got the more expensive one... thinking\hoping it is 100 better... :)

If I recall, I think the two main differences are a thicker border and a beveled edge on the screen. I had to work the opposite way actually. It was either a larger Precision or a smaller Criterion. :)