Can anyone explain the basics of this? I'm not exactly sure how it would work and my dad is telling me that it's got to be more complicated then having a basic Y splitter due to things such as impedance....

I was wondering if anyone could give a clear explanation of the process of splitting a single sub out for the usage of 2 subs and if it diminishes the quality at all.

To be more specific, it would probably be the Onkyo 706 with two BIC H-100 subs. If it doesn't work we're probably going to go with the A3-300 sub. My goal is to get the best lows to encompass a huge room with high ceilings, but for this specifc post I'm more interested in hearing about the process of splitting one sub out into two.

Y-connector. Should be no impedance issues with well-behaved components.

i have a y connector off my receiver out, then another y connector off of that one so i can run 3 MFW-15 subs. no issues at all. impedance would only play a role if the subs were passive and being run by the amp being split up, but since most subs are actively amplified there are no issues at all. good luck and enjoy

I have a Denon 2808CI, using a Y connector to feed 2 SVS 20-39 PC+ subs. No problems at all. The bigger issue is not feeding the subs the signal, it is making sure they are properly placed in the room so that one isn't fighting the other.

What's the actual science that goes into splitting the signal? How does it split the signal but not divide the amount of power pushed out by the receiver in half?

What's the actual science that goes into splitting the signal? How does it split the signal but not divide the amount of power pushed out by the receiver in half?

I use two subs with a Radio Shack splitter, which is designed for the purpose of creating two line level outputs out of one. There is no measurable loss of signal.


Ian

What's the actual science that goes into splitting the signal? How does it split the signal but not divide the amount of power pushed out by the receiver in half?

Powered subwoofers don't rely on the receiver/amplifier for power. Only for the signal. You connect your sub to a pre-out connection on your receiver, which is an un-powered connection. Powered subs have their own onboard amplifier and that's where they get their power and that's why impedance isn't an issue in this situation. As was previously pointed out, if you were using a passive sub that relied on the amplifier in the receiver for it's power, then there would be problems with impedance. As far as the splitter goes, you can split the signal several times before you start to see degradation. This is basically the same thing as splitting the signal that goes to your cable/satellite box. That's how they get the signal to several different rooms at once.

Powered subwoofers don't rely on the receiver/amplifier for power. Only for the signal. You connect your sub to a pre-out connection on your receiver, which is an un-powered connection. Powered subs have their own onboard amplifier and that's where they get their power and that's why impedance isn't an issue in this situation. As was previously pointed out, if you were using a passive sub that relied on the amplifier in the receiver for it's power, then there would be problems with impedance. As far as the splitter goes, you can split the signal several times before you start to see degradation. This is basically the same thing as splitting the signal that goes to your cable/satellite box. That's how they get the signal to several different rooms at once.

Ahhh, makes sense. It doesn't derive any power from the receiver, it's just getting the signal that it needs to output using its own power.

Ahhh, makes sense. It doesn't derive any power from the receiver, it's just getting the signal that it needs to output using its own power.

Exactly.

...............with two BIC H-100 subs.I haven't been following all your threads, but I do not think that 2 BIC subs is a good choice. Much wiser, IMO, to spend that money (and maybe a little bit more) on a single, more competent, subwoofer. Yes, it IS a generalization, but in this particular price range, chosen wisely, a single sub that costs twice as much as another WILL likely provide twice (if not more) the performance. It is at a much higher price range that you begin to see diminishing returns.

I haven't been following all your threads, but I do not think that 2 BIC subs is a good choice. Much wiser, IMO, to spend that money (and maybe a little bit more) on a single, more competent, subwoofer. Yes, it IS a generalization, but in this particular price range, chosen wisely, a single sub that costs twice as much as another WILL likely provide twice (if not more) the performance. It is at a much higher price range that you begin to see diminishing returns.

Yeah, at this point I'm just deciding if I can come up with the extra cash to get the ED A3-300 over the A2-300. I've pretty much passed up the idea of getting the two BIC H-100. Maybe someday down the road I'll splurge on another good quality sub and get an additional ED sub, but now's not the time. I'll just go with the one good sub instead.

Yeah, at this point I'm just deciding if I can come up with the extra cash to get the ED A3-300 over the A2-300. I've pretty much passed up the idea of getting the two BIC H-100. Maybe someday down the road I'll splurge on another good quality sub and get an additional ED sub, but now's not the time. I'll just go with the one good sub instead.Spend as much as you can on the sub. Nothing worse than wishing/wondering for a better sub. A good sub can really make a HUGE difference in the budget-to-moderate price range system.

Well anything is going to seem good coming from TV speakers, haha.

But I do understand your point. I'm doing my best to work the budget.

Well anything is going to seem going coming from TV speakers, haha.

But I do understand your point. I'm doing my best to work the budget.Not to at all belittle the importance of good speakers, but you can get some very adequate speakers for HT without spending an arm and a leg.

Any loss of signal can be made up with more gain, but is never a real issue.

I've split a LFE four ways.

And how do you guys go about figuring the placement of the two subs?

I've already ordered my A3-300 but in case in the futre i'd like to add a second....

And how do you guys go about figuring the placement of the two subs?

I've already ordered my A3-300 but in case in the futre i'd like to add a second....

Two schools of thought.... One is to find a good solid location that delivers a quality signal to the listening position, then place the second on top or on the side to increase the output by +6db (or so).

Second is to leave the one in a good position and put the second sub in another separate location to even out the bass signal with a little less output, but a more even signal across the listening position.

Back to the post.Most guys use software and their computers, and calibrated mics to find a good location.That would be a location that gave the smoothest response.

Kg