Thread Index
- Final 3D plan 1-8-09 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15503607&postcount=29)
- Framing done 1-25-09 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=15699132&postcount=38)
- Electric done 5-11-09
- Insulation done 5-25-09 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16549081#post16549081)
- Plumbing done September 2009
- Drywall done September 2010 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=19248945&postcount=93)




Hey Guy,
I have been reading this site for a while.
I am now ready to build my mancave with all the good stuff like home theater, bar, and office.
The problem: I have no idea how to do the 3D animations or renderings everyone posts on here. Can someone help me? I measured out the basement.
The rectangle area by the stairs is to be used for the entertainment/bar
The rectangle area bulging out in the middle is the be the office.

I'll take pics of the basement asap
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/7746/img020ql1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The 14'8" wall seems like the right spot for a screen wall, allowing for a viewing distance of 13ft on a 120" screen with ample space behind the seating for an aisle behind the second row. It also allows for good mounting for side and surround speakers for 7.1 with adequate depth for spacious imaging by the rears. The remaing 10 x 10 area to the side could be sectioned for a half bath and equipment rack with easy access to the panel and structured wiring including cat5 and the like. The area directly at the stairs exit would make a nice bar/lobby/etc.

Skip the Office. Who works in a Man Cave except Batman! LOL
A notebook plugged into a DVI cable to the projector is all you'll need if you must work down there. Stream your audio wirelessly to the theater sound system and create all the TP Reports you need with your favorite tracks in the background and reruns of Baywatch on the Screen all from the Laptop....hidden baywatch files of course!

It would help us If you could define your vision of a Home Theater.

Front Projection, rear projection or panel image?
How many people do you want to seat?
Open to the rest of the room, partially or totally closed off?
What are you thinking of in the way of a sound system?

mayhem13, I really do need an office and I think that area is too small for entertaining. I need a larger entertaining space since I have a lot of people over all the time lol
I think I want to make the area by the stairs all in one bar/entertaining area.

BIGmouthinDC,
Front Projection or panal image, Not sure yet since my basement is small and not sure what works best.
I want to seat a lot of people. Sectional with a bar behind?
I want an open floor plan, but I do need some kind of storage. Perhaps it's best to close off the entire area by the electric box for storage?
No idea on the sound yet, I need help defining the space at this time :)

Updated plan with some placement ideas
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5039/img021vf1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Warning, the following mess with shock you!

ROOM 1
Landing at the bottom of the stairs:
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9967/0812180019gn9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Looking into the first "main" room from the entrance:
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/5782/0812180020wa4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

from the other side of the room looking at the entrance:
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/9828/0812180026uq7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

From the other side of the room looking at the other corner with the water meeter
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/9835/0812180021zq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

ROOM 2
Looking into the office from the main Room1
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6996/0812180022wg9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Looking towards the electic box corner from room 1
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/8681/0812180023bf9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Looking at the basement from above the sump pump
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5631/0812180024xk2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Looking at the heater/ under the stairs
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6669/0812180025ul3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

That's it...gotta go do some cleaning now

Can someone help me by putting my plans into 3D? I have no idea how to get started. What does everyone here use?

Ok..sorry i misunderstood. I take it the space will be for casual entertaining and movies, but not a dedicated home theater?

I don't use the 3D programs either, too lazy to learn or already too much in my head already..no more room. LOL

You could do a projector in that space with a flat screen above the fireplace( watch the height and neck fatigue though!) with a motorized or manual pull down screen covering the flat panel when the PJ is in use. For a 100" screen, i find 12-13ft to be the best viewing distance so see if you have the room and include the bar and other seating that your guests will require.

I can understand the need for an office and you may want to consider a closed space for the office as the living space and the movie watching may interfere with your work time. Just my 2cents.

mayhem13,
In a space this small, I like to maximize the use of every inch. I do think that a more casual entertaining area will be more beneficial over a full blown home theater. Do you agree? I like to entertain and just hang out.
I'm not so sure about a TV/fireplace combo anymore for the reason you mentioned above.

Thanks to Kay at 3DPlanView, I now heve a 3D model!
http://www.3dplanview.com/jony.htm
What do you think about this placement?
http://www.3dplanview.com/Jony/3Ds/Overview.jpg

I'm cleaning out all the junk today :)

I like that 3d plan. I think it's very practical for the size of basement you have. A couple thoughts:

The bathroom - can you put a shower in too? Might help in resale.
The HT - Might be small now, but if you purchase the equipment, and then when you move to another house, you could have a large room / etc.

I like that 3d plan. I think it's very practical for the size of basement you have.
Thanks, can you think of better arrangements? I like it as it is now in the model, just not so sure how people will react to a bar attached to the office. Plus that will mean I will have to keep my office spotless all the time lol
A couple thoughts:

The bathroom - can you put a shower in too? Might help in resale.
The HT - Might be small now, but if you purchase the equipment, and then when you move to another house, you could have a large room / etc.
Not sure about the shower. The space is pretty small but I will talk to a plumber soon and see what can be done and the cost. I may not even do the half bath if its expensive (no rogh-ins down there right now)

You may want to check with building codes in your jurisdiction as I don't see an emergency egress window. Some places require it if the basement is being converted to finished space, other areas only require for bedrooms. Bottom line it is better to know so that all the effort will go to creating "legal" living space. Think resale value.

I'm not sure of the door location for the furnace and access to all that storage space. In the 3D plan it doesn't look like you can get anything sizable into the space. Maybe another door.

You may want to check with building codes in your jurisdiction as I don't see an emergency egress window. Some places require it if the basement is being converted to finished space, other areas only require for bedrooms. Bottom line it is better to know so that all the effort will go to creating "legal" living space. Think resale value.

I'm not sure of the door location for the furnace and access to all that storage space. In the 3D plan it doesn't look like you can get anything sizable into the space. Maybe another door.

emergency egress window not requiered in this part of ohio
Yes, i think another door would be needed.

Hmmmm, looks familiar...LOL. Yeah i like this arrangement. Just about the most efficient use of the space and you retained and office space to boot. Keep up the good work and let us know when construction begins.

Hmmmm, looks familiar...LOL. Yeah i like this arrangement. Just about the most efficient use of the space and you retained and office space to boot. Keep up the good work and let us know when construction begins.

Hope to start real soon!

Not sure if I should get the permit and all or just do it w/o permits and inspections

If you go the No Permit route, just remember the headaches when you go to sell the place since the changes won't be on the original C/O. This isn't always a problem, just certain lenders for the buyers can get particular (read FHA). Also don't leave any exposed building materials outside, they tend to attract rats (and inspectors!).

I can't. That plan really maximizes the space you have with your requirements. If you had 3000 sq ft to work with, it'd be a different story.

I'd recommend doing at least the rough in before you get started if you even think you'd like a bathroom.

Again, i'd think resale and convenience with a downstairs bathroom. After a few beers and a movie, you'll be running up and down the stairs....


Thanks, can you think of better arrangements? I like it as it is now in the model, just not so sure how people will react to a bar attached to the office. Plus that will mean I will have to keep my office spotless all the time lol

Not sure about the shower. The space is pretty small but I will talk to a plumber soon and see what can be done and the cost. I may not even do the half bath if its expensive (no rogh-ins down there right now)

Thank you, I will definitely try my hardest to get a half bath down there.
Any more opinion on the layout?

The storage space could be used as a place to recess the rack (if the bathroom is a bit re-configured) - or perhaps as an infinite baffle chamber.

You might want a door to the entrance of the HT if you want sound isolation. Also, check to see if the furnace or h/w heater (gas?) need a volume of cubic air space to meet combustion requirements - or you might get carbon monoxide poisoning if the doors aren't louvered or other means are addressed.

I think you will want the bath, but they can be pricey. Looks like your sewage lines are in the ceiling, so you'll need a sewage pump of some sort. Those can cost.

Finally, I'd go projection over panel in my personal taste.

I love the CAD. Is there anyway to make the bathroom bigger, or extend into the room where the electrical box is? Maybe make that PART of the bathroom? One less door in your home theatre, and you avoid that "small narrow room" feeling of the storage / electrical room.

You want to have room to move stuff later if you need to swap water heaters or equipment. Make those doors 36" or two 24" ones.

The area by the stairs for storage is perfect for a cool secret space area - make it something cool =)

Also, can you post a pic looking from the other direction? I think you want a door from the office to the theatre.

Also, can you post a pic looking from the other direction? I think you want a door from the office to the theatre.


Sure thing
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9499/0812230003qj0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7016/0812230004tg9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5366/0812230005ir8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

maybe try moving the bathroom against the wall where the furnace is. so you would have 2 doors there and 1 door on the side. Would add a ton more usable storage. Or just kill the storage and put a wetbar in since you will already be adding drains/water for the bathroom.

Also, maybe I am blind but I did not see a brass pole anywhere......

Also, maybe I am blind but I did not see a brass pole anywhere......

Ha ha ha ha! Will someone please show me pics of brass poles in your basement!

Well, the space has a lot of potential with the 3D rendering. Snap some chalk lines and start defining some spaces to see how the ergonomics and flow works, especially doorways and the utility room. Tape off a rough screen wall and work backwards from that in the theater area. It'll help define the best size screen. If you intend the room to be light controlled, a PJ is the better bet over flatscreen for price vs performance.

Still planning here, I think I got my bathroom planned
Vanity will be euro style in dark wood
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2884/eurovanitycq2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

and the toilet will be euro wall mount
http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/5387/wallmountaz4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Sure thing


LOL - I meant of the CAD - sorry!

hot off the press, option 2

http://www.3dplanview.com/Jony/Overview.jpg

Updated floor plan and 3D images:
http://www.3dplanview.com/jony.htm

What do you guys think?

I like the first plan better, but I'm partial to chairs facing directly towards the TV in a theater.

I think I am going to just frame the outside walls and go from there.............still not sure what to do with the space setup :(
Also, I now want a big screen and projector

framin in process as of last night
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/843/framingky7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

framin is complete

Looks awesome! Where's the completed framing pics? The 3D layout is very cool and I can't wait to see how great this turns out!

I like where the theater room is located in option 1, but the bar in the office just doesn't seem right.

I would go with option 2 personally, because the bar and TV/theater area should go hand in hand. Option 2 also has a much better storage/bathroom layout.

And also, you have plenty of room for a projector set up. I have to beg you to reconsider not going with a projector. Having a projector doesn't mean you have to have some huge dedicated closed off space with fancy pants theater seating, paneling, acoustics treatments, etc. There are many "multi-purpose" rec/media rooms on this site too, and I think you have plenty of space for this. Now's the time to do it, since you are still framing and get everything pre-wired, etc. Go for it!!!

And also, you have plenty of room for a projector set up. I have to beg you to reconsider not going with a projector. Having a projector doesn't mean you have to have some huge dedicated closed off space with fancy pants theater seating, paneling, acoustics treatments, etc. There are many "multi-purpose" rec/media rooms on this site too, and I think you have plenty of space for this. Now's the time to do it, since you are still framing and get everything pre-wired, etc. Go for it!!!


Yea, I think I will got for a big screen and projector!

going down the stairs, I cut the wall to open it up! YEEEEEEEEEY
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/2474/dscf4924pt9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

walking in....had to frame sideways on this wall to meet flush with the existing wall:
I will have to insolate before I drywall
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7633/dscf4925cs9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I am framing the windows lower for full size plantation shutters
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4018/dscf4926ty8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

This is the screen wall
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6361/dscf4927zn8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

walking in the "office" area...the door is for storage under and around the stairs
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1456/dscf4928fy1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

towards the big storage room at the end
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6223/dscf4929zp0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

bathroom
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1395/dscf4931tj3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

furnace room
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1201/dscf4932rz2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

office
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1/dscf4930kd5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

back towards the stairs
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4787/dscf4935xe9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

got to figure out the bar over that damn water emater
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6677/dscf4934ii6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

back up the stairs, my new french door
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3748/dscf4936bl7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

JonyHouse,

You're framing is looking Good! Keep up the good work and the photos.

A question about your wall insulation: Is that a vapor barrier on the room side? If so you might want to consider a change to an un-faced insulation. A vapor barrier on the living side and subgrade concrete on the exterior could create moisture/mildew problems inside your walls. Just a tip to consider >> before you close those walls up.

Also; I vote for a front PJ and screen > you won't regret it.

I am not sure…I believe it is……. it’s plastic-like. This is what they install when they build the houses. If you get a finished basement from the builder, they frame over this stuff just like I did. Should I be worried? I really hate to rip it all off and re-insolate.

JonyHouse,

You're framing is looking Good! Keep up the good work and the photos.

A question about your wall insulation: Is that a vapor barrier on the room side? If so you might want to consider a change to an un-faced insulation. A vapor barrier on the living side and subgrade concrete on the exterior could create moisture/mildew problems inside your walls. Just a tip to consider >> before you close those walls up.

Also; I vote for a front PJ and screen > you won't regret it.

Hey Jony!
You have done a great job! 'Building' the basement in 3D was the easy part. You guys were smart to start with a 3D... but I admire the REAL work! Looks wonderful. You guys are going to feel like you have a whole new house!

Thanks for letting me be a part of the fun!
Kay
3DPlanView LLC
'Tour Your Home Before You Build!"
http://www.3dplanview.com/images/LR%20Photo%20Merge%20w%20LOGO_small.jpg

Thanks to Kay at 3DPlanView, I now heve a 3D model!
http://www.3dplanview.com/jony.htm
What do you think about this placement?
http://www.3dplanview.com/Jony/3Ds/Overview.jpg

WOW...only 2 days for a 3D model. I contacted 3DPlanview for a price estimate and was told it could be a few weeks before they could start my plans. Underpromise/Overdeliver maybe...not that a few weeks is unreasonable for that type of work...2 days is just unbelievable.

I am not sure…I believe it is……. it’s plastic-like. This is what they install when they build the houses. If you get a finished basement from the builder, they frame over this stuff just like I did. Should I be worried? I really hate to rip it all off and re-insolate.

JonyHouse,

Sorry about the delayed follow-up. I have been traveling. In regard to vapor barriers and insulation in basement walls. The advice below comes from section 2.4.3 of this HUD publication

http://www.huduser.org/Publications/pdf/moisturehomes.pdf

"One suggestion is designing basement insulation and finishes to dry to the interior. "Low permeability and continuous vapor retarders, like polyethylene sheeting or vinyl wall paper, on the interior side of basement finishes should be avoided because they will tend to trap moisture vapor moving through the foundation wall and slow the drying process for new foundations. Therefore, unfaced fiberglass batt insulation and permeable paint finishes on gypsum wall board should be preferred on basement finished wall assemblies."

JonyHouse,

Sorry about the delayed follow-up. I have been traveling. In regard to vapor barriers and insulation in basement walls. The advice below comes from section 2.4.3 of this HUD publication

http://www.huduser.org/Publications/pdf/moisturehomes.pdf

"One suggestion is designing basement insulation and finishes to dry to the interior. "Low permeability and continuous vapor retarders, like polyethylene sheeting or vinyl wall paper, on the interior side of basement finishes should be avoided because they will tend to trap moisture vapor moving through the foundation wall and slow the drying process for new foundations. Therefore, unfaced fiberglass batt insulation and permeable paint finishes on gypsum wall board should be preferred on basement finished wall assemblies."

My foundation is 2 years old now...does that matter?

JonyHouse,

Will a green foundation versus an older foundation make a difference? A good point; but I doubt it that is only part of the concern.

I came across this same HUD article when i was at your point in my build (framed but no drywall). I chose to play it safe by going with the unfaced Batts.

If I were starting over with bare walls > I would have gone with the blue (or pink) foam board glued to the wall then framing on top of that. Live and Learn

My foundation is 2 years old now...does that matter?

If it is done wrong does age really matter?

I don't understand how builders are allowed to get away with putting fiberglass insulation directly against concrete and then cover it with plastic. I have seen many examples of molded insulation, causing families to get sick and spend lots of money to fix. As Craig mentioned I would go with the 1" thick rigid styrofoam on the concrete, then build my walls 1" from the foam and insulate like normal from there. Might cost you more up front, but save you time, energy and money in the long run.

Mike,

I agree completely with your points. For me I had the whole basement framed and then regretted that I had not used the foam board - I think this is where JonyHouse is.

However; I think I found a good alternative, at least for me:

-Because my basement was poured it had slightly uneven walls
-As a result my framing varied from 1/2' to 1" from touching the wall surface.
- I carefully installed unfaced batt insulation betweem my studs, and was able to keep the insulation "forward" and from touching the concrete (had about ~1/2" airspace between insulation and concrete. II used the inexpensive wire supports that are used to hold insulation into overhead joists - I placed these in-between my studs nearest the walls to help hold the insulation away from the concrete.

If no drywall has been done, you could have the stud cavities sprayed with the foam insulation...a bit expensive, but peace of mind that you will not get mold behind the drywall.

well I am at a loss now......not sure what to do. if I make sure my sheetrock is air tight, will I still have problems?

is this a better way to insolate?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9mlBTQRu5k&feature=related

Jony House,

If you made your sheet-rock airtight >> it would make the potential problem worse.

The idea is to allow the room side of the insulation to "breathe" into the house. Yes as long as you do not seal the sheetrock with a vinyl wallpaper type covering or some other non porous covering >> the sheetrock does actually allow moisture to dry from the wall cavity by passing into the heated space of your room.

Have you considered cutting the polystyrene foam board into strips that would fit between your studs against the foundation?

is this a better way to insolate?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9mlBTQRu5k&feature=related

JonyHouse,

Great video - thanks for posting the link. In my opinion >> Yes; both methods shown in this video (foam board, or unfaced batts) are a good direction.

Just my opinion, and I know it will cost you a few hundred extra $$'s. However; you would be eliminating a potential long-term mold/mildew concern by replacing your white vapor barrier insulation by using one of the methods shown in the video. I can feel your pain and frustration in backing up and changing direction. I was at this exact same point 9 months ago. However the peace of mind (for me) was worth it.

Ok so I can used unlaced insulation without putting the foam board on just like they did in the video? That would not be so bad. Please let me know asap so I can get this done this weekend

Jony,

Since you're soliciting quick feedback on the insulation issue I'll jump in here.

I went through this recently and was amazed at the conflicting information I received, even from different 'experts." I think part of this is caused by different common practices in widely different climate zones, and of course the variation between home construction types and whether one is in a high moisture area or not. My experience reflects my situation and may not be exactly applicable to yours.

Having said that, I live in a northern climate like you (Minnesota), where winter temps get pretty low so warmth is certainly one issue. I also live in a 70 year old home with cinder block construction with signs of slow seepage and even some mold issues. Because of that, I decided it was important to be safe on the moisture/mold issues.

I tore off everything down to the cinder block walls, treated them for mold remediation, put in drain tile for future problems, and then went with half inch pink polystyrene (bead board) insulation along the entire perimeter of the wall. This acts as a vapor barrier as well as insulator. Then I framed inside the bead board with normal 2 x 4 framing, and then (again, because of the cold climate here) I put UNFACED R11 fiberglass insulation between the studs. It's important to NOT create a second vapor barrier (using faced batts), as moisture will get trapped between the two barriers. On top of that went normal drywall, etc.

Looking at your pictures, I agree the insulation there is of questionable value. For one, having that type of insulation against the wall you will have mold problems IF any moisture seeps through. For another thing, why does the insulation not reach the floor? Insulation with 'holes' like that is ineffective against the cold, as it will simply pass through the uninsulated opening. Is your basement pretty cold in the winter right now?

The risk with what you have now is similar to what you would have if you simply went with fiberglass batt insulation directly against the concrete walls: IF any moisture gets in, the insulation will get wet and will then be at risk of developing mold. If you can be certain there will never be any moisture, then no problem, but most people can not be certain of that.

I know it's a big PITA, but if you don't get the "foundation" of your project right you risk having to undo it at even greater cost and hassle down the road. You want your basement to be warm and dry, and once you've got drywall up your options to improve that are very limited.

Finally, I may be wrong but what is the spacing you used on your wall framing? Is that 24" on center? That may influence the options you have on insulation batts as well, as obviously those have to fit snugly between the studs.

Yea the walls are 24 on center....I have a setback = water is coming in through a wall!
Need to wait for them to come epoxy my wall now! grrrrrrrrrrrrr

Yea the walls are 24 on center....I have a setback = water is coming in through a wall!
Need to wait for them to come epoxy my wall now! grrrrrrrrrrrrr
That's a BIG bummer! Not just because of the immediate need to have that area treated, but because you now KNOW that water CAN be an issue for you in that house.

Now that you know that, you have a big decision to make: do you spot treat the problem and continue on, hoping you won't have any other moisture problems, or act more aggressively now to address the water/moisture issue for the long run? Of course, the second will set your schedule back and force you to go backwards for a while before you can mover forward, which sucks big time. But if you do the other approach and IF you get more water, you have even more time and money invested that will have to be ripped out and done right.

Personally, I'd take the time to do it right now, but that's entirely your call. I feel bad for you, but try to look at it on the bright side: better it happens now than right after you get done, which is exactly what happened to my brother a few years ago.

Damn - sorry to hear about the leak issue.
Still; much better to know now than when the walls are sealed up.

I would go for the permanent fix, and would be even more inclined to use the polysterene (blue or pink) board for insulation (even if you had to cut it into 24 " strips and insert between studs).

Hanesian
Since my walls are up, would taking care of the problem consist of:
1. Ripping out all the plastic faced insulation blanket
2. Cutting foam boards into 24” stripes and inserting them behind my framed wall as cuzed2 suggested. (I left clearance in between my framed wall and concrete of about 1.5 inches.
3. Installing pink unfenced insulation in between my 2x4’s


OR Can I run wire along the back of my framed wall and skip using the foam board. This way my unfenced insulation will be healed away from the concrete walls?

Here are leaking wall pics.
This is leak no 2 and 3. Had another one about a month ago.
it will be a week before they can come and do the warranty work.
We just had 15+ feet of snow melt in 3 days and now we are getting crazy rains!

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2584/dscf4974ov4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
By jonyyb (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/jonyyb)
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/716/dscf4975ed0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
By jonyyb (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/jonyyb)

Jony,

I'll give you my thoughts but I really urge you to get someone in who has specific experience in dealing with basements with water problems. Plenty of guys know how to build walls, etc. but really have little actual experience with the water and/or mold issues. With that disclaimer, here are my initial thoughts. This is going to be long, because I want to try and help - I've been in a similar situation as you and I know it is no fun, and information is hard to come by.

First priority is to determine and fix the CAUSE of the water problem, not just treat the symptoms by putting on epoxy or whatever on the cracks. As you've said, you've had several known leaks in just a couple of years. That's a problem. The usual culprit is some combination of exterior landscaping and gutter management. At this time of year, it sounds like landscaping. Snow melting/water runoff should be forced away from your foundation to the extent possible by proper landscaping. Unless and until you find and resolve the root cause, you will have to anticipate future water problems.

Secondly, I - personally - would definitely get rid of that existing insulation on the perimeter walls immediately, for three reasons: (1) you need to be able to clearly examine all your foundation walls to be certain you are aware of, and fix, all the cracks, and you can't be certain of doing that with the insulation still up; and (2) the existing insulation has likely already gotten wet somewhere, and once that happens that is a mold nest just waiting to grow; and (3) even without the water concerns, it is clear your builder did a poor job of installing the insulation, as is evidenced by the incomplete wall coverage and questionable direct wall attachment. Put all three issues together and it would be a compelling argument, in my opinion, to just rip out what you have. I certainly don't think the idea of a wire or something behind the insulation would be of any help mold wise (if you're curious do some research on how mold forms and grows and you'll learn, as I did, that once mold exists your only real certain cure is to completely remove any organic material which it has touched).

Once you got the old stuff out and had not only fixed the cracks/leaks but had also made certain you had discovered & addressed the source of the water, here's how I would go about insulating (although you could probably get several differing opinions on the method used - I know I certainly did!)

I would definitely use the polystyrene or "rigid board" insulation, applied directly against the walls. This both insulates and acts as a vapor barrier. This comes in varying thicknesses, with the thicker ones having higher R values and costing more. Installing this in your situation presents a few options.

Obviously you could disassemble your framing so you could get easy access to the walls. I don't know how you affixed your framing to the floor and ceiling so I'm not sure if that would be a huge problem or fairly easy. (At this point I'd ask another related question: it's hard to tell from your photos, but did you use treated lumber for you base plates? They don't look like the typical green treated lumber.)

Second, you could cut them into widths to fit inside the studs, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you had framed up against the wall, because it would just leave too many uninsulated gaps around the entire wall.

A third possibility - given that you apparently have about an inch or more between the framing and the walls - would be to selectively remove a few 2x4s sufficient to allow you to slide the sheets of insulation into the gap and then replace the 2x4. This might be a bit trick, as you'll have to make sure the height of the sheets is snug or at least close to the top plate, but it might just work. Then since they wouldn't be glued to the wall you can get a similar result by simply putting in shims of some sort (likely the scrap insulation cuts) between the framing and the insulation, forcing the insulation to remain snug against the wall.

(Edit: one other possibility worth considering, that I have no first hand experience with: the spray foam insulation against the walls, which you could do without fiddling with your framing. My understanding is this needs to be done by an expert, so the cost is likely higher.)

Once the polystyrene is in, you can additionally put in UNFACED fiberglass insulation between the studs if you want to increase the R value, but that isn't essential.

That's my 2 cents worth. I know just contemplating dealing with this issue at this stage of your build is very frustrating. I know that doing what I suggest means delaying your project and adding cost. If you decide to proceed anyway or without doing all of what I would do in your shoes, you would probably find others who would do the same thing. There are trade offs and risks either way. But to me the risk of not doing it now and hoping you won't have a problem in the future is high, and the cost and hassle of dealing with the problem later after you've done all the more expensive finishing work is far greater than the cost and hassle of biting the bullet and doing it now.

Whatever you choose to do, good luck.

I agree completely with the information above. Very good synopsis!

I would add that based on the pictures provided that the walls next to the concrete should be redone anyway. It appears that the bottom and top plate are made from 2x2 and the 2x4 studs have been turned sideways. Adding insulation to this wall will need to have the insulation compressed in order to fit in the 1.5 inch thickness, thereby reducing the effective R value of the insulation.

hanesian,
Thanks for taking the time to post all that! Question, if I only use foam board I will be OK? No pink unfenced insulation needed in between my studs?
Also what is the dif between blue and pink?
IF I have these foam boards up against the wall, won’t vapor and on water condensate on them and then run to the bottom and create mold problems on the bottom? My bottom plate is PT (from home depot) by the way.

Jony,

Using only polystyrene w/o the fiberglass is fine, so long as you are aware of and content with whatever R value that results in. I did both because (1) I opted for the thinner (lower R Value) boards so I wouldn't lose and extra inch or so in room size, and (2) the cost savings, which of course gets offset by the additional cost of adding fiberglass between the studs. But a thicker board alone would be fine, IMHO. The more critical point is IF you DO also use fiberglass, make sure it is UNFACED (I'm not familiar with "unfenced" you keep referring to, although perhaps there are different terms in different parts of the country) to avoid creating a double vapor barrier.

There is no meaningful difference between the blue and pink boards as far as I know - it is just marketing/branding used by different manufacturers, same as with the fiberglass. I used pink because that was what was in stock at my Home depot.

As for the question about trapping the moisture against the wall, this starts to open the very large Pandora's box of insulation 'science' where one simple question results in other, more complex issues addressing the different ways that moisture enters a structure (i.e. ground water leakage vs. diffusion vs. capillary rise, etc.) and other stuff that I never thought about, much less understood. Much of it, frankly, I still don't fully understand, but I took the time and effort to learn the fundamentals - motivated by the shock of bids to fix my problem well into the $10-20K range. Amazing how such costs will make one much more interested in doing more research!

I would simply tell you that I consulted multiple basement experts prior to going through a comprehensive (and expensive) mold remediation process this past summer (if you're interested I could post one or two photos to give you an idea, but I don't want to hijack your build thread), and the recommendation to use polystyrene against the wall for basement moisture/mold control purposes was unanimous. Briefly, an important reason for this was that polystyrene is made of material that will not absorb moisture (unlike fiberglass) and is inorganic with cell structure that mold can't grow on, blah blah blah. (I don't mean to make light of these details but it would take a novel to cover all this here!)

I would mention that I did two things to address the trapped moisture problem you mention. First, I added a drain tile and a sump system in my basement, and second (and very importantly), I also bought and use a heavy duty de-humidifier that I now run most of the summer, because that is really when much of the moisture is likely to occur once you've resolved leakage problems. This is not a unit you can get at Home Depot - I burned through a couple of those in a few years so I got one through my basement systems contractor designed to be run consistently and dehumidify a larger area.

Hope that helps answer your questions. I gotta run to work now!

Jony,

Hope you don't mind me chiming in here. First - I couldn't agree more with Hanesian.

It seems you have a builder that will be standing behind his work to help address the basement seepage issues? I'll bet that your builder's efforts and some landscaping changes will be the larger part of your fix (hopefully your entire fix).

From the research I had done >> I believe the poly-styrene foam board option is clearly your best choice by far, even if you have to compromise it a bit by cutting into strips to get it between studs. Why don't you go with 100% foam board, and leave the wall board off as long as possible to monitor and be sure that foundation leaks are gone.

As for the question of Warm Enough? My comparison experience is as follows:
(keep in mind that Ohio should be similar to No Ill):

My original (20yr old) unfinished basement 1200sq ft. (no wall insulation), bottom 6.5' below grade all walls, 2 HVAC supply ducts and one return.

In previous winters the lowest temps I saw down there was about 58 degrees (68-70 degrees upstairs).

The current configuration:
Still no carpet or pad (floor uninsulated)
I now have 2 HVAC returns and 4 supply ducts
1/3 of the Basement wall area is insulated with 1.5" foam board,
the remaining area with R11 un-faced insulation (with airgap between insulation and concrete).

With all ducts open on an average evening (15 degrees above) my basement now gets warm enough that I had to shut down 2 of the 4 supply ducts. On the coldest evenings (-15 below) I leave all the ducts open and am still hitting 70 degrees throughout.

Hope this helps?

Jony,

In case you're still in the fetal position trying to absorb this water/insulation problem, I had a couple other *possible* ideas on how you might be able to install polystyrene boards most easily without removing too much framing. I'm not positive either would work, but I'll share them anyway just in case.

First idea is for the walls that have an interior corner. You might be able to remove just a portion of the framing on the corner, opening it up so that you could then insert the rigid boards at the corner and then slide them down the length of the wall(s) until they are in place. Then you just have to re-nail the corners and you're good. That might work for a couple of your walls.

For those walls that you can't get easy access to do that, you might consider cutting the boards roughly in half height-wise to make it easier to insert through the framing gaps. Then once they are behind the framing you can position them together, one on top of the other, cutting as needed to fit. That would just leave you with one seam running horizontally about halfway up the wall. Then just caulk that seem and you should be good to go.

In either case you'll still need to improvise with some sort of shims (cut off pieces of the scrap poly boards may work well) between the framing and the insulation in order to keep the boards pushed up against the concrete.

Not sure if I explained this well, but thought I'd at least share the ideas, since I've been mulling your situation over for a while.

Thanks for all the input guys. I wish someone said something before I started doing my framing lol. But now I will just have to improvise.
What’s the R value I want in the walls?

Sorry I hadn't stumbled onto your build earlier. But OTOH, much better you are not any further along when this happened. As I mentioned, this actually happened to my brother: he spent lots of money finishing his basement beautifully (not a HT, but great nonetheless) and less than a month later there was a mongo rain storm and water came gushing through his new huge egress window and filled his basement to a depth of something like 6 inches. Had to rip out about 70% and start over. Huge bummer.

Here is a link on figuring out recommended R values, which vary by location and where you are using the insulation.

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html

Sorry I hadn't stumbled onto your build earlier. But OTOH, much better you are not any further along when this happened. As I mentioned, this actually happened to my brother: he spent lots of money finishing his basement beautifully (not a HT, but great nonetheless) and less than a month later there was a mongo rain storm and water came gushing through his new huge egress window and filled his basement to a depth of something like 6 inches. Had to rip out about 70% and start over. Huge bummer.

Here is a link on figuring out recommended R values, which vary by location and where you are using the insulation.

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html

That link is confusing. I am in Ohio. Can I get away with 1 inch boards?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?Ntk=AllProps&N=10000003+90139+527397&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&langId=-1

That link is confusing. I am in Ohio. Can I get away with 1 inch boards?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?Ntk=AllProps&N=10000003+90139+527397&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&langId=-1
Did you try the insulation calculator on that site? Punch in your specific zip code and answer a few details about your house and you'll get specific R value recommendations. Either that or google r values and the name of your town or county. Knowing what r values are recommended for your area for different ares of your home is an important starting point if you want to do this right.

It's hard to me or anyone to tell you what you need - or what you can "get away with" - without knowing your specifics. I'll say this though: for me, in Minnesota, and the type of construction I have, the 1" polystyrene board I used provides an R value of 5, which is well below the recommendation for basement walls of R11-19.

Could I "get away with" only the polystyrene? Yes, of course, and it will be a big improvement over no insulation. But since I want to use this area year round comfortably without losing much of my heat I chose to add R 11 batts in addition. To me the nominal additional cost to do it while I'm already working on open walls was worth it.

YMMV.

Tap, tap, tap (knocking on microphone) ... testing 1, 2, 3 ... is this thing on?

Just checking in to see how you're coming along, my friend. The radio silence is deafening!

I also thought I'd let you know I finally threw up a build thread myself. I think if you took a look at what I went through with my mold remediation you might feel just a little bit less bad about your situation, as frustrating as it is/was.

Well my friends this project has been on hold for months because of the insulation situation and MULTIPLE wall cracks/leaks that needed addressed by the builder.
I am waiting for the spring rains to be done to make sure I spot any and all leaks.
On a side note, I am leaning towards spray foam insulation now. It is just so expensive but I believe the best solution.

Hey Johny,

Just read your thread and have a couple of things. First you have gotten some great advise from the other guys so I won't belabor the points. I too wrestled with all of the insulation info over and over and I was in anguish over what I should do. There are so many pros and cons for all the different avenues you can go with insulation. I would also like to add that like you I did lay my 2 x 4's on their "side" for three of my basement walls to help with gaining some extra space. Doing it that way leads to it's own set of problems and if I had to do over again I would not think the couple of inches gained for the trouble were not really all that worth it but I digress.

Regarding the insulation I have decided to use the spay foam for my build. I will be spending 2.5 times MORE for the foam over the traditional "pink stuff" but here is the reason why I have chosen to go this way. The foam contractor I am going to use has two different types of foam one is a rigid foam the other is a semi-rigid. The rigid goes on the basement walls the semi-rigid goes in the ceiling and around the rim joists boxes.

The rigid foam becomes the vapor barrier much like the board insulation. I like this because then I don't have to give the vapor barrier a second thought because it is done and taken care of and the foam even if it gets wet will not be damaged and will help prevent mold and mildew. The foam also has no food value to bugs and rodents and is more of a "physical" barrier to help with the intrusion of those pests. The foam also will not deteriorate, sag, or shift as it ages like the traditional pink stuff can. I came to the conclusion that while more expensive it is the best option for my build. I have a dry basement (knocks on wood) so I have not had some of the issues you have had to deal with, but like the others here can't stress enough that the primary issues for the water intrusion MUST be addressed so that future problems are eliminated. Even though the rigid foam becomes the vapor barrier it does not water proof the basement wall.

Here is the site I used to locate my spray foam contractor. CLICKIE (http://http://www.sprayfoam.com/cdps/foamcontractorsusa.cfm)

If I get my foam before you I'll pass along my impressions. I'm looking at about three weeks before I'm ready to have my contractor come in and apply the foam.

Best of luck with your water issues really stress to your builder to fix the real problem and not just addressing the leaks that make it through your wall.

Keep us posted.

Regards,

RTROSE

Jony,

Glad to hear from you again. I was worried the basement project had swallowed you up and assimilated you! ;)

FWIW, I think you're on the right track in dealing with the water issue properly before completing the build. In the long run it will be well worth it. If you glanced at my build thread you would know I have been dealing with a similar long project which had to be addressed before I could finally turn to the part I wanted - the HT build part!

While I don't have any personal experience or advice with the spray on foam insulation, it sure sounds like a good solution to your problems.

Keep us posted - we're pulling for you!

Jony,

I live in Northern Ohio and the previous builder of my house already put the 1 inch styrofoam insulation under paneling that you have been debating about and it works fine in our house.

Well enough time has been wasted with insulation options (baby will be here in August)
So I pulled it all down! F#% insulation...on to electrical
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4116/dscf5448f.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5448f.jpg)
By jonyyb (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/jonyyb)

Insulation done....end of a LONG dilemma
Here is the spray foam insulation thread I had going. I asked for it to be locked since I went ahead with foam.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1144622

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4029/dscf5572.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/3968/dscf5586.jpg
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Hey Jony,

I had my foam guys here at the family compound for the past two days so our foam was done just about the same time. It is too early to tell obviously for the long haul but short term I'm really impressed with the performance of the foam. Did you do foam everywhere, walls and ceiling or just the areas you have photographed. I decided to go all the way and just spray the entire gal darn basement entirely with foam. The only thing that did not get foamed was the interior walls in the basement.

Pretty neat product. Like you acoustics are not my primary concern mine was and is comfort. The basement seems "deader" acoustically, but I'm still getting reflections from the concrete floor. Hope it all works out for you, keep us posted on your progress and let me tell you up front that electrical can be a real pain too. Not to add any additional stressors to your plate.

Regards,

RTROSE

Hey Jony,

I had my foam guys here at the family compound for the past two days so our foam was done just about the same time. It is too early to tell obviously for the long haul but short term I'm really impressed with the performance of the foam. Did you do foam everywhere, walls and ceiling or just the areas you have photographed. I decided to go all the way and just spray the entire gal darn basement entirely with foam. The only thing that did not get foamed was the interior walls in the basement.

Pretty neat product. Like you acoustics are not my primary concern mine was and is comfort. The basement seems "deader" acoustically, but I'm still getting reflections from the concrete floor. Hope it all works out for you, keep us posted on your progress and let me tell you up front that electrical can be a real pain too. Not to add any additional stressors to your plate.

Regards,

RTROSE

I just had the band joist and the top 4 feet of the exterior walls done.
My electric is complete. All I need is speaker wires

Jony,

It's great to see you moving on with the insulation woes in your rear view mirror!
The spray foam result looks good. I wish I would have used the spray foam for the upper foot (band joist) of my build.

Will you be posting your latest layout plan on this thread?
I apologize if I missed these points, but one more question - Have you decided to go with a projector/screen set up....?

Keep up the good work!

I just had the band joist and the top 4 feet of the exterior walls done.
My electric is complete. All I need is speaker wires

Ah, ok. Looks good, how long did they take to do the job. My guys sprayed the walls on day one and the second day was the band areas and the ceiling joists. The actual spraying did not take all that long it was the prep and the cleanup that was the time consuming part.

On speaker wire, I am guessing you already have a heads up but get it from someplace like Monoprice so you don't get hosed with some high priced vendor or cables. I purchased the 500 ft. bundle and it was enough to wire my entire basement.

Clickie. (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2818&seq=1&format=2)

Regards,

RTROSE

Ah, ok. Looks good, how long did they take to do the job. My guys sprayed the walls on day one and the second day was the band areas and the ceiling joists. The actual spraying did not take all that long it was the prep and the cleanup that was the time consuming part.

On speaker wire, I am guessing you already have a heads up but get it from someplace like Monoprice so you don't get hosed with some high priced vendor or cables. I purchased the 500 ft. bundle and it was enough to wire my entire basement.

Clickie. (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2818&seq=1&format=2)

Regards,

RTROSE


Thanks for the help! I was just going to buy this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-762&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=8812034 It seams cheaper?

The insulation guys took about 4 hours including prep and cleanup but my basement is not that big


Jony,


Will you be posting your latest layout plan on this thread?
I apologize if I missed these points, but one more question - Have you decided to go with a projector/screen set up....?

Keep up the good work!
The layout plan is linked im my first post where I have a table of contents of some sort :)
about the projector....I am setting up for both options so we'll se what I find when I get there lol

Thanks for the help! I was just going to buy this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-762&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=8812034 It seams cheaper?

The insulation guys took about 4 hours including prep and cleanup but my basement is not that big.

That is pretty quick. Yup the speaker wire is cheaper because it is smaller 14 ga. vs. 12 ga. The monoprice 14 ga 100 ft roll is about 16-17 bucks cheaper than the parts express that you linked to. Here is the same (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2820&seq=1&format=2") with monoprice. Money is money and a little saved here and there can really add up when in comes to something as big as a remodel or HT build.

Regards,

RTROSE

haha it's August and I have no updates :(
This project is going to take me years at this rate

JonyHouse;

So with summer winding down - I'm sure more updates are just around the corner....?

Looking good, I like the 3D layout!

Good choice on the spray foam, I wanted to do that in my build but the budget was not there for it. I am concerned though about you only doing the top 4', you had some leaking lower down on the wall, did you epoxy that? Also general you want to seperate the footer from the concrete to avoid mold and rot, I did not see any foam or construction adhesive, you may want to look into protecting that part of your framing!

That is pretty quick. Yup the speaker wire is cheaper because it is smaller 14 ga. vs. 12 ga. The monoprice 14 ga 100 ft roll is about 16-17 bucks cheaper than the parts express that you linked to. Here is the same (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2820&seq=1&format=2") with monoprice. Money is money and a little saved here and there can really add up when in comes to something as big as a remodel or HT build.

Regards,

RTROSE


Rose, Am I OK going with 14ga? I am not crazy into audio so I won't install the best of a sound system lol

Rose, Am I OK going with 14ga? I am not crazy into audio so I won't install the best of a sound system lol

You should be just fine with 14ga. speaker wire. It is easier to work with and easier to connect to receivers and speaker terminals. I would not want to go any smaller than 14ga. wire though. Even if you are not big into audio you don't want to limit your options down the road.

Glad to hear from you.

Regards,

RTROSE

wetbar and bathroom plumbing was done 4 monts ago. Forgot to update w pics. I have been working on drywall slowly. Just ordered the speaker wire before I close it all up

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/9514/dscf6178h.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4194/dscf6181.jpg

Drywall is FINALLY all up!

Drywall is FINALLY all up!

Congrats! Glad to see you're keeping at it!

Congrats! Glad to see you're keeping at it!

+1 However for us to REALLY believe you PHOTOGRAPHIC evidence MUST be presented as proof of said progress.

Regards,

RTROSE

for sure! I was going to post pics but I can't get in my imageshack account! blah!
I will post them asap

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9313/imag0395.jpg
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PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF - YES!

You just made a believer out of me. Looks good!!
I'll bet you're happy to have reached this milestone - it's a big one.

thank you! feels so good to be this far along! Now time to think about flooring! I don’t think carpet is an option with the crazy cat hair from the 2 cats that live down there :(

The more difficult the journey, the sweeter the ... well, something. :o

Seriously - I remember well your earlier set backs with water leaks and insulation, so congrats for keeping at it. Looking good.

thanks :) paint is next

Just read through your thread. Looks great and I wish I had done the spray insulation. That stuff is amazing. It's really starting to look like a room with that drywall up. Good luck with your flooring choice. Cork ;)

Hey Jony

I was curious about who the "pig, pig, pig," poster was, so I just went through your thread.:)

Nice job, it's coming along very nicely. I feel your pain in dealing with water issues in the basement. My problems delayed my build for close to a year while I battled a contractor who installed a basement water system.

I might have missed it, but why does the foam insulation not go to the floor? And how did you deal with the water leaks?

Pete

Hey Jony

I was curious about who the "pig, pig, pig," poster was, so I just went through your thread.:)

Nice job, it's coming along very nicely. I feel your pain in dealing with water issues in the basement. My problems delayed my build for close to a year while I battled a contractor who installed a basement water system.

I might have missed it, but why does the foam insulation not go to the floor? And how did you deal with the water leaks?

Pete


All the cracks in the foundation were injected with some sort of expanding epoxy. Not sure exactly what it was but it expanded very nicely and saw it coming out on the other side of the foundation where the crack went all the way to the outside. I watched the fixed cracks that leaked for one year after the fix and no water came in.

As far as the spray foam, it was VERY expensive so I decided to do only the top half and up in the trusses. The trusses is where all the air goes in. The bottom of the walls are well under ground and the temp that low is pretty constant. I love this stuff. No airflow from outside what’s so ever.

Any updates on this?

Any updates on this?


thanks for checking : )
Still not done but almost there! will post pics tonight!

finishing trim for carpet. Carpet is on order

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/316838_904467587932_39103055_39717812_355474770_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/309601_904468511082_39103055_39717826_359360416_n.jpg

Looking Good!

Every time I visit this thread; I have regrets about not using the spray foam technique

made the mistake of not planning for upper cabinets
anyone have alternative ideas above a wet small bar? Mirror? Shelf?

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/312063_920784678352_39103055_39832398_696046387_n.jpg

I'm not a big fan of mirrors, I just don't like what I see in the reflection I guess, but I think a small decorative shelf to store either glasses or several bottles of you favorite adult beverage might just be the answer for your "situation".

Looking good.

Regards,

RTROSE

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/308945_921402585062_39103055_39837595_1328771929_n.jpg

Wow, either those are some STEEP stairs or the camera was tilted slightly when the photo was taken. ;-)

Looking good. Stairs and the associated railings, balusters, etc., are a pain (for me anyway) so well done, looks really nice. I had real issues with mine.

Regards,

RTROSE

JonyHouse,

I have been reading through your thread and really like how things are coming. I live in Ohio and I think we might have the same builder. Does it start with R? We are having a home built. Smaller than yours. They actually just finished pouring the basement. Hopefully will start framing next week. Anyways, I wanted to say hello and let you know I am following. The water leaks you have had scares me. I know the builder says they will repair it. From what I have been reading I think I might go with the pink board. Not sure if more insulation will be needed.

carpet just went down
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/297149_925291346952_39103055_39861835_932985207_n.jpg

Time for furniture and tv shopping!

Looks good! What are you looking for in a TV? We are all interested in the goodie shopping. Looks like Christmas is coming early to your house!

Regards,

RTROSE

got a 46 inch sony google tv last night. love it. posting this from the tv!!!!
i need an economical surround sound. i am not too crazy about sound just need to have 7.1 in wall setup. anything good for around $500?

JonyHouse,

I have been reading through your thread and really like how things are coming. I live in Ohio and I think we might have the same builder. Does it start with R? We are having a home built. Smaller than yours. They actually just finished pouring the basement. Hopefully will start framing next week. Anyways, I wanted to say hello and let you know I am following. The water leaks you have had scares me. I know the builder says they will repair it. From what I have been reading I think I might go with the pink board. Not sure if more insulation will be needed.

yes a ryan home. never again! house is very poorly built.
wait a year or two to close the walls up and pull down that crap insolation they put on. good luck

FWIW for around 600 or less I would look at some of the Onkyo HTiB's. They really do provide good bang for your buck performance in a simple easy to use and understand package. Look on line and you can find two or three that are less or right around the 600 mark. I found a great deal on a Klipsch Quintet with a Onkyo 5 series for around 6 bills a few years ago, had I not gotten that I would have gone with one of the Onkyo HTiB's. Oh, I just noticed that you said inwall. Not too sure on that, you might have to go with something other than an HTiB then.

Nice score on the TV. Pretty slick how they are incorporating so much connectivity into the tv's now. Pretty soon all of our home appliances will be connected. I read an article were they were working with a refrigerator that was connected and also had a bar scanner and would keep track of your items in the fridge and would remind you if you were getting low on something and then would email you a list of possible items you would need when you went to the grocery store. Hmmmm, pretty soon we won't have to think for ourselves. LOL.

Looking forward to more pics.

Regards,

RTROSE

just placed my speaker order at monoprice.com

4104 - 8 Inches Kevlar 2-Way In-Ceiling Speakers (Pair) - 80W Nominal, 160W Max
4101 - 2 pais of 8 Inches Kevlar 2-Way In-Wall Speakers (Pair) - 80W Nominal, 120W Max
6317 - 5-1/4 Inches Center Channel Micro-Flanged In-Wall Speaker - 8 Ohm
8249 - 12 Inch 150 Watt Powered Subwoofer - Light Wood Finish
Total $299. $365 with shipping

can anyone point me to a how to do a in wall components rack?

Like a DIY solution, or a ready made deal. There is this forum about racks (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=788074&highlight=show+me+your+rack), don't know if that is what your after but might prove an interesting read.

I also found THIS (http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_put_recessed_shelves_in_a_wall) how to, it could easily be modified (I think) to do component racks if you have enough depth.

Regards,

RTROSE

google TV and surround sound
working on the in wall rack
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/319647_963708663342_39103055_40093932_626956532_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381890_963710599462_39103055_40093939_479197054_n.jpg

Looking really nice. That is a very clean and tidy instal. Well done.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks RTROSE!

December 17th marks 3 years since I started this thread!
very close to done!!
All around pics very soon

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/313631_975243457522_39103055_40132112_288628138_n.jpg

quick side by side

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/380247_975257035312_39103055_40132178_829718270_n.jpg

JonyHouse,

Looking good!
Looking forward to the rest of the photos :)

opposite of TV
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/392308_982547440282_39103055_40152622_825041956_n.jpg

I really like that clock. Very nice.

Regards,

RTROSE

Your project really came out nice. What part of Ohio are you in? Just curious who you had do your foam insulation?

Thanks,