"Pretty Much Finished" Pics!
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/tan12.jpg

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/4.jpg

Popcorn Hour - Movie Jukebox
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/yup.jpg


Anthem ARC Speaker Graphs
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/1arc.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/2arc.jpg

Equipment List

Sim2 C3X1080 Projector
Panamorph UH480 Anamorphic Lens
SMX Proline 150" Wide 2:35 AT Screen
Paradigm Reference 100s v5's for LCR
Paradigm Reference ADP-590 v5 for Surrounds
Paradigm Reference 10's v5 for Rears
SVS PC13-Ultra Subwoofer
Anthem AVM50v Pre Pro
Anthem MCA50 Power Amp for surrounds and rears
Anthem MCA30 Power Amp for LCR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu Ray Player
Panamax 5300PM
Harmony 890
Roku Player
Popcorn Hour A110
HP M9500 HTPC


unRAID Movie Sever - 32TB of Storage!:
Norco 4220 case
SUPERMICRO AOC-SAT2-MV8 R Sata Cards
Corsair 750HX PSU
Corsair 4gb ddr3 Ram
Intel Core2 Duo E7500 Processor
SUPERMICRO MBD-C2SBX Mobo
Noctua NF-R8 Raised-Blade design and SSO Bearing Fans
Scythe Kaze-Jyuni SY1225SL12H 120x25mm 1600 rpm 3pin 33 dBA 88.11CFM Fans

Acoustic Treatment:
Behind False Wall:
2" Linacoustic with 10" bass traps in corners

All Around Room:
1" Linacoustic Panels Covered in Black GOM FR701 (Floor to Ceiling side and rear walls)


Still left to do:
2nd row of seats?


------------------------------
Original Post:



We just built a new house and now we're finishing the basement which is where my new theater is going. The dedicated room finished space will be 14.5x21.5. It will have a stage with a raised platform for seating, fluted columns, suspended crown with rope lighting, sconces and the whole bit - I can't wait!

My inspiration for my new theater is this pic:

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater.jpg

And now for the pics - I'll take more as it progresses.

Just finished the pre wire on it and the contractor just finished the stage!

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater4.jpg

Oh and we're doing a hidden door to enter into the room that mimics a ticket booth. My inspiration for that is this pic:

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theaterhiddendoor.jpg

We drywall next week!

Just insulated today for better soundproofing - hopefully stocking drywall tomorrow!http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/insulated.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/insulated1.jpg

Oh and I also ended up running a whole new set of speaker cable to each of the 7 speakers. I was afraid if something happened to one I'd atleast have a backup. That and I ran 16 gauge to the fronts and with all the jogging around the romex it ended up being like 40-50 foot runs each. So I ran a new set of 14AWG everywhere just to be safe. And then on the projector, I thought I'd do the same, so I ran 2 hdmi's, one component, and two cat5's. Here's hoping the drywallers don't mess up my wires or forget to pull them out:D

Welcome to the forum I like the inspiration and your adaptation. It should be a great looking space.

Just so you know, in the picture it looks like the contractor used untreated lumber in contact with the cement (usually a code violation) and if your plan for soundproofing is all that insulation you may be surprised how loud the theater will sound upstairs. If that isn't important to you, full speed ahead.

Since I started raining all over your parade you should be aware that the niches you are building for those great L/R/C speakers will compromise the overall sonic quality.

My intention is not to criticize only to give you an honest heads up so that the space meets your expectations.

Thank you for the info! The lumber issue I am not sure about, but it is set about an inch or so away from all exterior walls, but it does of course touch the concrete floor. And we're doing double drywall, in addition to the insulation, but that will most likely be it. Believe it or not, my last theater had neither, no insulation and no double drywall. Sound did carry though, nothing horrible, just when I had it up loud. So hopefully on this it will be a little better.

Good that you are doing double drywall, did you think about using Green Glue while you are at it?

Yes, it is the bottom plates on the wall framing that caught my eye. They may not be fussy in your county and the contractors don't bother.

I do now see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is VERY GOOD.

One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?
A lot of HT seating is arranged in a slight curve aimed at the screen. Not a problem if you are only planning one row on the riser.

Since I started raining all over your parade you should be aware that the niches you are building for those great L/R/C speakers will compromise the overall sonic quality.

My intention is not to criticize only to give you an honest heads up so that the space meets your expectations.

I do appreciate the help and criticism..good or bad :)

And yeah I know about the niche problem. It's more of a aesthetics thing for me. In the old theater I had in-wall speakers - I opted to go with the paradigms on the recommendation from a friend instead of the in-walls.

When he found out about the niches I'm putting them in he started talking about why put a box inside of a box. I realize it's not the best scenario, but I hope this is atleast as good as my old crappy in-wall speakers. I am not the most highly sensitive listener, so I'm not sure I would even be able to tell.

Good that you are doing double drywall, did you think about using Green Glue while you are at it?


I just read about it today - do you think it's worth it?

Thanks,
Shawn

One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?
A lot of HT seating is arranged in a slight curve aimed at the screen. Not a problem if you are only planning one row on the riser.


Yes only planning on one row...for now. It currently bowes towards the screen. I attached a picture of it..

I see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is great. That will help isolate theater sound. The GG will help tame the bass migration.

You can read the test results at www.soundproofingcompany.com

I see that you have isolated ceiling joists which is great. That will help isolate theater sound. The GG will help tame the bass migration.

You can read the test results at www.soundproofingcompany.com

Glad something is right!!!!:D

Thank you for the info and the help. If you see anything else or can recommend any other tips please let me know.

Looks pretty cool. I like your last theater as well.

In addition to what Big has mentioned where is your sub going?

Ah yes the sub problem. Well we didn't want the sub sitting in the front of the room and couldn't figure out how to hide it well, so I ran two prewires - one on the back wall with a long enough cord to go anywhere on the back wall. And another one on the long side wall opposite of the entrance.

Anyone know of a good acoustic panel? Do they help block sound from going to other rooms of the house, or only make the sound better in the theater?

or only make the sound better in the theater?

They are really easy to make, you can pick from an almost infinite choice of fabric colors.

Anyone know of a good acoustic panel? Do they help block sound from going to other rooms of the house, or only make the sound better in the theater?

It's not hard to do. Acoustic panels have nothing to do with sound isolation (sound-proofing) but are used for sound treatments.

Gpowers has a guide how to build your own frames/panels.

GIK acoustics is one on-line vendor. He will do custom fabric work on request.

Thanks for the info. Do hanging curtains on side/back help as well? And I'm painting the walls black and trim gold - I use eggshell on all my other walls and semi gloss on my trim, but in the theater, should I use flat? And where/how do you do those star ceilings?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater1.jpg


Are you only going to have seating on the riser? So, just one row of seating altogether? Doesn't seem like there'd be enough room for a row in front of the riser.

Just one row on the riser for now, but may do another on there too. I measured and there is room for two rows (just not two rows of berkline recliners). Eventually I may do a couch or club chairs in front of the riser. I wish I had a bigger room and probably would have made the riser straight instead of bowed. What sucks is the bowed was actually more expensive from my contractor. And my moronic self set the curve the wrong way :( Oh well, someday maybe I'll have a 3.0 version..if my wife doesn't kill me before then :D

Now you guys have me thinking. I'm pretty much the only one that's gonna use this theater except for my wife sometimes with me. But now I wondering what I would do if I did want to add another row. Work it work with my current setup. It seems two rows on the platform is gonna be pretty tight. It's about 10 feet deep. Maybe I should:

1) Have him rip out the bow and just leave it a straight edge (so I could fit one row on and in front of the riser. Probably the easiest fix, but maybe won't look the best?

2) Have him remove the bow and cut into the square and make the bow go the way it was supposed to? Probably the best fix, but the most work and cost.

Thanks:o

I didn't read any real closure on the PT-vs-non-PT lumber on the slab floor question, sorry if I missed it. If it hasn't been addressed, I have a comment.

Lumber manufacturers now use a different chemical when producing pressure treated lumber. They used to use CCA (chomated copper arsonic), but a few years back switched to ACQ (amine copper quat) or CA (copper azone). This is of course in an effort to reduce the health hazards of PT lumber in home building. They still use CCA for industrial-use PT, but you wouldn't find it in home use anymore. Anyway, a lot of these are now much less green colored than in the past, and the lumber might be PT but the green doesn't show up in photos.

The PT that I used in my wall builds is so close to the normal 'yellow' of douglas fir that you can only tell the difference with a side-by-side comparison.

Your build is looking promising Shawn. There's a lot of knowledge here in the forums that can help make your space amazing. I vote to cut the riser flat (slice off the bow) just the possibility of another row in the future. However, I like the design element of it. Still, I'd slice it off. You still have the same detail on the stage wall, so not much lost.

I think the sweet spot (visually) for that size screen is to put your row of seating with the front of the chair right about where you have the lip of the riser. Either it's too deep for 2 rows with one in front of the riser or not deep enough for one in the sweet spot. I would re-think.

Just a thought. Since your screen is going to be pretty high you might want to make the level you have now bigger for the front row then add another level for the back row.

While you are re-thinking I would move the niche for the center channel up. You want it to be as close to the screen as possible so that the dialog is linked to the image. I can't see a reason to have it so low. If you go to 2 rows of seating the higher the better so the second row sound isn't blocked by the first.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/insulated.jpg

Since I've got the saw out I might rethink the whole front end. If you watch a lot of letter boxed movies the image is really going to be pretty small for this size room and the one row of seating which looks to be at about 16 ft.

If the drywall isn't up I tear out all the framing, do a false wall covered with acoustically transparent fabric, put your speakers (including) sub behind an acoustically transparent 2:35 SMX screen and the fabric covered wall, See QueenDVD2 thread:

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/queendvd/DSC_0358.jpg

This would solve your small screen problem and put your speakers in an enviornment where they can shine.

Thank you javadoc and BigMouth! So BigMouth, your saying to extend the platform a couple feet more towards the screen, and then on top of that platform add a second platform bowed the correct way? I gotta see if my contractor is gonna kill me or not:) If he is or if it is prohibitively too expensive I may just trim back the platform. What is a good depth for each platform (given my space), like 6 feet? And then on the center channel - they just started drywalling darn it:D Anyway, so try to move it up to just under the top of the stage?

Since I've got the saw out I might rethink the whole front end. If you watch a lot of letter boxed movies the image is really going to be pretty small for this size room and the one row of seating which looks to be at about 16 ft.

If the drywall isn't up I tear out all the framing, do a false wall covered with acoustically transparent fabric, put your speakers (including) sub behind an acoustically transparent 2:35 SMX screen and the fabric covered wall, See QueenDVD2 thread:


Didn't see this part, yes too late drywall is up and this would kill my budget and timeline. I should have posted all my plans on here before I started the build :(

See my edits, I just cut deeper into your design.

You need 6 ft 8 inches for a berkline recliner. I would build an 8 ft rear riser because you don't want your backs to the wall you need some space for the surround sound. Then 6'- 8" for the front. That will put your first row eyes at 11.5 which is fine.

But again your screen is too small for 2:35 material.

But again your screen is too small for 2:35 material.

Oh don't tell me that!;) I wanted a 133" screen and everybody from friends to salesmen to "experts" all talked me out of it as they said it was too big for that size room and my projector wasn't bright enough for it, which is why I settled on 119".

That space looks smaller that a 119.

Take some blue tape downstairs and tape the outline for what a movie is going to look like on your screen. Not a football game, a movie and stand back where you were planning to put your one row of seating and ask yourself am I at the movies (the immersive experience) or am I watching a large screen TV in a very nice room.

Since It's mostly for you, get a row of seating where it needs to be.

I'll be back with the dimensions to tape in a minute.

Yes it does look small in these pictures. My screen viewable size is 58" x 104". What you see framed flat is 110" x 64". I actually installed it and the projector at the framing stage to see if it's gonna work and it worked. Not saying the image size worked, just the throw distance, screen alignment etc. My theater chairs were "planned" to go about 1 foot from the edge of the platform curve. So that would put my 'main' row of seating somewhere about 12-13 feet back from the screen. I do agree a bigger screen is better though:D

OK tape out 104 x 58 for a 119 16:9 image

then make it 104 x 44 1/4 for a movie. Then you can see where you want to sit and where you need to put your riser to fully enjoy "being at the movies".

A frequent mistake for every first time theater builder is too think too small on the screen size. I made the same mistake.

then make it 104 x 44 1/4 for a movie. Then you can see where you want to sit and where you need to put your riser to fully enjoy "being at the movies".


Makes sense, thank you I will do that tonight.

A frequent mistake for every first time theater builder is too think too small on the screen size. I made the same mistake.

Where were you when I was getting made fun of for wanting a bigger screen?:D

Believe it or not, this is my second theater and my first was a 100" screen with a room about the same size. I always wished for a bigger screen at that one, I hope I don't do the same here in this one..

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theater1.jpg

Assuming your studs are 16 inches on center your eyeballs will be about 15ft from the screen assuming you push the chairs up close like you said.

When reclined your eyes would be about there that thing is hanging on a stud. That stud is 4 ft in front of the rear wall.

I went down and made some measurements - The front of the platform is almost dead center in the room, about 9 1/2 feet from the back wall and the screen. first there is the entrance problem. Here is a pic of the entrance

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/entrance.jpg

That's a 4' rough opening for a custom built hidden door (we're doing a double 1/2" plywood door with GG or foam board sandwiched in between, and then the front of it like the picture in my first post). The finished size will be a 3' 6" door.

Anyway, there is about 2 feet between the swing of that door and the platform. It swings towards the screen. Making the main platform 5 feet deeper would mean I would need a step into the room and then the door at that new height. I'm not sure it would work now with the image I'm going for.

Possibly a better solution for my needs would be just to take the curve out of the platform and use the main level in front of the platform the first row of seats. My only concern with that would be whether the screen is too high if the seats are that low. Screen starts about 30" from the floor.

One more questions about the center speaker too - my original plan of placement was just for aesthetics (in the middle of the stage) and I planned to 'angle' the speaker up right to my ears at sitting level. Do you still recommend moving it up?

Here's a pic of the screen wall drywalled with a water bottle on the stage for reference size. The black and gold are me testing my paint colors:)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/frontdrywall.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/frontdrywall1.jpg

Possibly a better solution for my needs would be just to take the curve out of the platform and use the main level in front of the platform the first row of seats. My only concern with that would be whether the screen is too high if the seats are that low. Screen starts about 30" from the floor.


At this point, that's probably what I'd do (or curve it back the other way if you can). That'll put your first row of seats at about 9.5' from the screen. If you can cut the riser back a bit and make the first row of seats about 11', I think you'd be better off.

BTW, my room is similar sized (12.5' X 20'). I'm using a 126" screen with seating at 12.5' and 17.5' and the screen size is just about perfect. The actual screen (not the border) is 29" from the floor

I am going to stop nit picking and just let you enjoy this great space. If you decide to go with two rows I would move it up for the reasons I stated earlier.

Could you swing the door out of the room instead of in? Just thinking out loud, and don't know if you have the space. I do really like your doorway idea though, very cool.

At this point, that's probably what I'd do (or curve it back the other way if you can). That'll put your first row of seats at about 9.5' from the screen. If you can cut the riser back a bit and make the first row of seats about 11', I think you'd be better off.

BTW, my room is similar sized (12.5' X 20'). I'm using a 126" screen with seating at 12.5' and 17.5' and the screen size is just about perfect. The actual screen (not the border) is 29" from the floor

Thanks, I will probably go this route.

I am going to stop nit picking and just let you enjoy this great space. If you decide to go with two rows I would move it up for the reasons I stated earlier.

Not nitpicking - I appreciate the help big time! (helps me learn what to do next time too:) )

I did think of another option - maybe doing the first platform only in the middle 8' of the room with the corners on 45's. The only problem with this is it limits me to only 2 chairs on the first row. If I moved the riser back and was able to curve the other way I could fit three chairs in that first row, but it would be on ground level. From simplicities sake I think this makes the most sense for me at this stage.

I have the theater equipment set up in a spare bedroom and I adjusted the screen to the same height as it would be on ground level for the first row and it wasn't bad. I was comfortable viewing it reclined. I think I prefer about 5 inches down from there as the perfect spot for me, but it wasn't bad.

The bad thing about adding the first row and cutting back the riser is that it puts the second row even further back than it is currently. And if that's where I'll be sitting mostly, I just made my viewing experience worse so that I could have three extra empty seats. Haha, man so many things to think of, I don't know what to do!! I guess I could make the first row my main viewing row but then there's the non optimal screen height issue. Like I said that height is ok, just not as BigMouth called it the sweet spot.

Maybe the additional platform in the middle for two seats is the best option now. I dunno!!! lol

Could you swing the door out of the room instead of in? Just thinking out loud, and don't know if you have the space. I do really like your doorway idea though, very cool.

I thought of this, but the design of the door has this great thick frame that will really help out with sound. And if it swung the other way I'd lose that frame. Here's some pics of another hidden door I have in my study. This one is only one sheet of plywood and weighs a ton, I can only imagine how much the new one will weigh. Sorry its so bare, we just moved in:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study3.jpg

The bad thing about adding the first row and cutting back the riser is that it puts the second row even further back than it is currently. And if that's where I'll be sitting mostly, I just made my viewing experience worse so that I could have three extra empty seats. Haha, man so many things to think of, I don't know what to do!! I guess I could make the first row my main viewing row but then there's the non optimal screen height issue. Like I said that height is ok, just not as BigMouth called it the sweet spot.


Understood. I made my front row the sweet spot.

How tall is the existing riser? If you cut it back, couldn't you make a smaller 6" tall platform to put the front row of seats on (like a mini riser)? Then the screen would be at the perfect height.


Or, to get really weird, you could extend the current platform even further toward the screen so that you could place the first row on it. Build a smaller riser on top of it for the rear row.
As for the door, you could have a step up going into the theater (raise the whole door up the height of the riser)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/theaterhiddendoor.jpg

We drywall next week!

See that bottom part of the door? That could actually be a permenent step and the rest of the "booth" is what opens into the room.

Clever! You could actually even make it come out a little more and it would still look right.
Kind of like a foot rest at the ticket booth.

Exactly.

I've been reading up on accoustic panels and I'd like to try to make my own. From what I've read mineral wool or rigid insulation with fabric would work? If I go to home depot - what all do I need to buy? And what type of fabric would I use to cover it? Would a velvet type material work or?

Thanks
Shawn

So over the weekend I masked out the screen placement and set up a chair down there. It is not as bad as I thought - both the seat on the platform and in front of it was a very comfortable placement. And the screen didn't seem small. I talked to the contractor and he has everything glued down like crazy and said it would be extremely hard to redo the platform at this point. He did say we could add an additional one on top of it or in front of it. I have a few days to think about it, but I think I'm probably just gonna stuck to what I have now. And the hidden step at the bottom of the door he felt would feel wierd and thinks people would trip on it and figured it wouldnt pass inspection especially if the inspector tripped :) Thank you very much for the advice on it.

I've been reading up on acoustic panels and I'd like to try to make my own. From what I've read mineral wool or rigid insulation with fabric would work? If I go to home depot - what all do I need to buy? And what type of fabric would I use to cover it? Would a velvet type material work or?

Thanks
Shawn


JM Linacoustic RC or semi-rigid fiberglass panels are most commonly used for acoustical panels. Neither tend to be stocked in Home Depot. Linacoustic is sold by HVAC insulation suppliers since it's original purpose is to line ductwork to reduce sound transmission. Johns Manville has a dealer locater on their web site.

Rigid fiberglass panels are available from insulation dealers and sometimes can be special ordered from other building suppliers.

You can get various materials and fabric suitable for DIY panels at www.Sensiblesoundsolutions.com. The operator of that site Bpape has been a poster to this forum.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/study3.jpg

Shawn:

That looks really interesting. Can you take a few photos of both sides of the hidden door, as well as send along some photos of the hinge and support mechanism. I'm really interested in how this has been done.

CJ

JM Linacoustic RC or semi-rigid fiberglass panels are most commonly used for acoustical panels. Neither tend to be stocked in Home Depot. Linacoustic is sold by HVAC insulation suppliers since it's original purpose is to line ductwork to reduce sound transmission. Johns Manville has a dealer locater on their web site.

Rigid fiberglass panels are available from insulation dealers and sometimes can be special ordered from other building suppliers.

You can get various materials and fabric suitable for DIY panels at www.Sensiblesoundsolutions.com. The operator of that site Bpape has been a poster to this forum.

Thanks, I found some decent tutorials online to help too. Where do you recommend placing them (height wise). I plan on doing them in between the trim (flat) columns. Should I do them a few inches below the crown molding down to a few inches above the baseboard (entire wall), or just the upper 2/3 of the wall or?

Shawn:

That looks really interesting. Can you take a few photos of both sides of the hidden door, as well as send along some photos of the hinge and support mechanism. I'm really interested in how this has been done.

CJ

Sure! This one just uses 4 standard hinges, but with 3" screws. The theater one will either need several more of these hinges or a piano hinge instead.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/door1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/door2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/door3.jpg

this may be helpful in deciding where to put your panels:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1063494&highlight=acoustic+faq

this may be helpful in deciding where to put your panels:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1063494&highlight=acoustic+faq

Thank you - my head hurts from reading all the info on this. So up to ear level is best? I'm assuming that means from floor to ear level?

Thank you - my head hurts from reading all the info on this. So up to ear level is best? I'm assuming that means from floor to ear level?

I found the answer, apparently it's from floor to ear level. So I guess I should eliminate the chair rail from the room in case I do acoustic treatments?

There are a number of approaches. 1) hit the key first reflection spot wall mounted approach with others added to balance the look in the room and the manage overall room echos and reverb. , 2) the cover it all with modular wall panels (Gpowers) and 3) the cover all the wall with fabric with Linacoustic for ear level and below and cotton batting above (See Dennis Erskine designed spaces)

If you are just hanging a few panels they can go above ear level and they don't have to go all the way to the floor.

I'm not real sure of your intentions.

Also there is the concept of bass traps which even out the bass response in the room and that is a whole other topic.

Acoustical treatment is a topic that makes my head spin as well and it is difficult to read a thread and decide if the proposed method is a "one size fits all" solution that will work in your space.

There are guys who will model you room and make recommendations for a fee. Bpape for one.

The problem is you are going for a very specific look in your room and not all the recommendations can be accommodated. For instance based on what I've read, general wisdom suggests making the front wall acoustically dead by covering it with acoustical treatment and employing bass traps in the front corners all hid by a acoustically transparent false wall.

I suggested that earlier and you indicated it was too late and too $$ to change at this point.

The problem is you are going for a very specific look in your room and not all the recommendations can be accommodated. For instance based on what I've read, general wisdom suggests making the front wall acoustically dead by covering it with acoustical treatment and employing bass traps in the front corners all hid by a acoustically transparent false wall.

I suggested that earlier and you indicated it was too late and too $$ to change at this point.

Thanks - I do see the advantages of doing what you recommended now. The good thing is, and I'm just assuming, that I can always add a false wall and do this in place of my current one if it doesn't turn out the way I had hoped, but I hope I don't have to go that route!

The treatments on the wall - well I could wrap the front wall still and the stage, and then for the treatments on the side walls, I read somewhere that using painters tape to hold up a tshirt or something on the side walls to see if it makes a difference and if it does, put a panel there. No idea if that would actually work?

Thanks - I do see the advantages of doing what you recommended now. The good thing is, and I'm just assuming, that I can always add a false wall and do this in place of my current one if it doesn't turn out the way I had hoped, but I hope I don't have to go that route!



One more question about this - I've got 2.5 feet behind my current screen wall, totally just curious here if I went that route, but would it work to remove all the drywall from the front wall and leave the framing and put all the speakers and such in that 2.5 feet of empty space and then wrapped the framing of the front wall, stage etc in GOM instead of the drywall. Would that work, or would all the 2x4's from the framing of the stage and such ruin the sound?

If I were in your shoes I would have the contractor build your room out with straight walls all the way to the front of the room.

To do what you propose would defeat the purpose of putting two layers of drywall on the ceiling and you would be opening the sound up to the bones of the house. Also to leave all that framing in place just gets in the way of where you might want to place the sub.

Then after the room is built, build a stage, false wall, and proscenium to hold the screen, house the speakers and hide the front wall acoustical treatments

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

Wow that really is a great help - I wish I had seen that earlier. I especially like how he didn't even have to paint the walls, just put the fabric up. Almost makes me want to tear down what I have and start over :( But I dunno if I can stomach that.

So the past couple days we've gotten the stage and rack built and they are going to start the hidden door tomorrow. I'll take pictures of the progress. I also have been looking at fabrics to do on the acoustic panels.

A couple things have come to mind - I'm feeling the urge to "upgrade my system". I'm thinking about upgrading either some or all of it.

If I had to buy these things again (and didn't already buy anything I probably would have bought:

paradigm studio 40's for fronts
" Studio CC-590 for center
Studio ADP-590 for surrounds
Denon 4308 amp
and JVC RS20 for projector

I also would have done the AT screen and hidden all my speakers behind it, but I live and learn.

Anyway, given my current setup - would upgrading to any of these items make a noticeable impact on my outcome? I'm thinking the studio 40's would help a lot for the fronts because they are not rear ported and because I have the recessed cavities. But the other items I am not sure about. Like would I need the more powerful amp? Would I see a huge impact by going to the RS20 over the VW40 etc?

Thanks for the help :)

Just wanted to update - I bought the Paradigm Studio 40's for my fronts and a CC-570 for my center. The 590 was available, but I got the 570 at almost half price so I jumped at it. Actually, I got the 40's at a great price too since they're going out. I compared them at the store with the monitors and center I have now and they are so much clearer. I can hear the dialog so much better, and better sound overall. I think I'm gonna be very happy with these :)

Finally got some pics taken. Today they worked on the columns, the rack and started some trim. It's coming along!! The rack has a removable back and the corbels are for the projector shelf.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater4.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater5.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater6.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater7.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan20/theater8.jpg

looking good!

One more update - I ended up contacting Jason at AVS and bought a JVC RS10. I thought it would be a great upgrade from the VW40 while not breaking the bank. I figured the features of the RS20 weren't worth the extra price (to me) especially since I'll probably upgrade in a year or two. So when I get it, I'll post my opinions on the comparison of the two. :)

So today they opened up the recessed box for the center channel because it's bigger, did some base molding and started on the door! It's looking great. They hung it with their stereo blasting and closed the door and I couldn't hear anything - I'm really happy about that:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan221.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan222.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan223.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan224.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan225.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan226.jpg

And trying out some fabric on the panels. I like the black one best, but I'm gonna keep looking.
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/panels.jpg


Also, got my new JVC today!!
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/box.jpg

One more update :)

I bought a Denon 3808 to replace my 2808. Now I can see the volume on screen :)

Not a lot has happened since the last update since they've been working on other parts of the basement like the bar. But the hidden door is completed, crown added etc. They still have to build the projector shelf a couple small items. Unfortunately, the interior doors for the rest of the basement are delayed and won't be in until mid Feb, so I suspect progress will slow down for a couple weeks :( I want my house back and get rid of all this dust:) Oh well.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan301.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan302.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan303.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan304.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan305.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan306.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan307.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan308.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan309.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan3010.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan3011.jpg


Oh and I picked out the carpet :)
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/carpet.jpg

Then after the room is built, build a stage, false wall, and proscenium to hold the screen, house the speakers and hide the front wall acoustical treatments

There is a good picture story of building a stage, false wall, proscenium and putting up linacoustic on the walls on this Web site. This was the inspiration for my basement.

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/uptownparadiso.html

I am just thinking about it. We had a delay in the progress because the basement doors are in, so we have a 2 week down time. In this down time, I thought, if I wanted to go this route, I could have them redo the front wall now.

My questions are:

1) What kind of microperf screen would you recommend? stewart, smx? And how much are they (120"-130"), approx?

2) How did you attach the GOM covered panels to the false wall - using clips from the hardware store or something?

3) Would I need a more powerful amp since the speakers are behind the false wall?

Thanks
Shawn

I thought of another option. I could tear out the current screenwall now and finish, double drywall and "deaden" the wall behind the current screenwall. Then still build a false wall with a few studs, but put the speakers on stands behind this false wall (covered in GOM) on the left, right and bottom of the screen.

So basically it would be the same as doing it the perf screen way, but it would have a normal screen instead. This would solve my image loss concerns, but the only problem is the speakers wouldn't be behind the screen - but it also saves money from buying a new perf screen and it would solve the 'speakers in the cavity' problem. I think I would go to 130"-140" diag either way though. What do you guys think?

Well after some thought about it, I'm tearing out the front wall (I should have listened to Big early on :) )for two/three reasons:

I want or a bigger screen and the current setup limits me at 119".

I want optimal sound and my recessed cavities aren't going to cut it.

I want flexibility to get other speakers and not worry about them fitting.

Basically it's gonna be a false wall with the speakers behind it. I may do an SMX acoustic transparent screen and put the speakers behind that, but if I don't go that route, I'll just put them behind the GOM covered front. Doing a Proline SMX would be about $2k more than a solid screen.

Good move on going AT.

For screen material you could go the DIY route with the Seymour Sheerweave material. Check out the DIY screen section for it. It is the same material that was originally used by SmX. You could build your own screen for about $300-$400 in materials.

Good move on going AT.

For screen material you could go the DIY route with the Seymour Sheerweave material. Check out the DIY screen section for it. It is the same material that was originally used by SmX. You could build your own screen for about $300-$400 in materials.

Wow that would be awesome. Although I'm not the handiest guy, is it hard to do and is quality pretty good? I'll check out the DIY forum, thanks.

Only just re-stumbled onto your thread. I recognized your name from your post in my build thread and when I saw your first page I said "Oh, he's the Spider-Man guy." Build is coming along great. I LOVE the swinging movie theater door. Too bad I am nearly done or that would have been tempting. Not to mention that the budget got busted long ago too.

I should have listened to Big early on :)

Cheap source for the fabric:

http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?ID=113044&t=2182

Instructions on the Seymour AV site.

http://www.seymourav.com/articles/DIYFixedFrame.pdf

Note: i see that Seymour is having a sale on the fabric so now their price is the same.

As for your question on attaching fabric panels to the false wall. Velcro works just fine, don't use too much. The panels below and to the sides of the screen can rest on the stage and you just need to hold them upright. Depending on your design the panel above the screen can rest on the screen.

Also this thread may of of interest:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=837848&highlight=minimalist

I was originally going to do a DIY screen with Sheerweave 4500 but ended up going for the SMX screen.

It was definitely a splurge (about 4-5x the cost of the DIY solutions I was concidering) but the final product is definitely incredible. The fit and finish on the SMX frame is fantastic. After talking about DIY options with my wife for a few weeks, I showed her the SMX site and she was sold (after I was able to haggle a bit with Ruben ;) ).

It was one of those situations were we decided to splurge because we saved enough money in other areas (DIY, deals, etc). Then again, my AE3000 + SMX screen was still a couple hundred under the MSRP for a JVC RS10 (with no screen)... and I should own the screen for many years (which might not be the case for any projector I may have bought).

When we finished assembling the screen she said to me, "No offense, but while I know you could have made a nice screen... it would not have been nearly this good."... I agreed completely. :)

Thanks for the help!! Surprisingly, my contractor is more than willing to change it and thinks it's a good idea (cause it gives so much flexibility)...and he's not charging any extra for it :)

When we finished assembling the screen she said to me, "No offense, but while I know you could have made a nice screen... it would not have been nearly this good."... I agreed completely. :)

Your wife must know my wife because she would say the EXACT same thing to me:D

I am not gonna go the DIY route, I think I would worry about it too much and after spending as much as I did on the projector, speakers etc, I don't want the screen to be the weakest link.

So Ive narrowed it down to:

137.7" Proline SMX Weave with speakers behind the screen
or
133" Dalite with speakers on sides and bottom center

The SMX is about twice as much, but as I'm typing this I kind of think if I don't get the SMX I'll regret it and end up buying it and the dalite :p

The only thing about the SMX is Im afraid of screwing up on attaching the material to the frame since it's more complex than the simple snaps of a dalite. I guess if I go the SMX route, I'll figure it out.

you may want to consider the fixed frame kit from Seymour in the mix, But SMX is the quality champ.

But SMX is the quality champ.

I think I'm gonna with SMX:D

Ok so I made a drawing of the dimensions of the front wall and drew the screen on:

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/screenwall.jpg

So basically if I go with a 137.7" diag screen it would leave about 20 1/2 inches on the sides of the screen and about 13 1/4 on the top and bottom (although I may hang it higher or lower depending on seating).

I think that seems like a great size screen, but just for kicks, I figured the sizing on the 149" screen and it would leave 15.5" on the sides and 10.5 on the top and bottom. I think size would be great too, but it may be too much of a stretch for my RS10.

Anyway, if I do the 137.7, I'd put the center speaker dead center of the screen and then the left and rights about a foot in towards the center from the edge of each side of the screen or should I put them in the 20.5" of GOM on the sides of the screen? I guess in the screen would be best so they have more room to breathe?

Have you considered a scope screen?

You could go with a 66"x158" (171" diagonal) 2.37:1 screen which would have a 16:9 viewing area equivalent of a 135" diagonal screen. That would leave you 5" on each side of the screen (including the 3.5" on each side for the screen frame).

This screen would be just barely smaller than the screen you are currently thinking for 16:9 material, but for 2.35:1 material, you'd need a 16:9 screen with a 181" diagonal to match it.

Granted, you'd either need a lens ($$$) or use the 'zoom method' (at least the RS10 has a powered zoom) to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 material... but it's something to consider.

I love my scope screen. :)

I'd also suggest considering scope as well.

I did think about it and the idea of the wide screen sounds really cool :)

The only negatives with it for me are: The screen is more $$ (I just emailed smx for a price quote so Ill find out how much more), the lens is definitely more $$ and I wonder if the RS10 can handle that big of a picture (if it was 2:35 movie playing for instance)? If I did get it, I would use the zoom function as spending $3-5k more on a lens is out right now. I've surpassed my budgeted promise to the wife $10k ago:p Would using the zoom show the black bars on the GOM fabric panels (when it bleeds over the screen height on 2:35 movies)?

What size screens do you two have? You both have the panny right?

ps jamis - the index really helps:D

I see you have a 140 diagonal. I can't remember, but I think the panny is even brighter than the rs10?

One more question about making the back wall (behind the false wall) dead. I cannot find linacoustic anywhere, tomorrow I'm gonna try some commercial hvac wholesalers to see if they carry it. If they don't I'll just have to use the 4" mineral fiber sheets by JM. They'll be more expensive, but I guess they may be even better than linacoustic? I could also cut in half and make em 2" thick. The only problem is they are yellow, so I'd have to cover them with a cheap black fabric. Argh! Did everyone here use linacoustic?

Have you considered a scope screen?

You could go with a 66"x158" (171" diagonal) 2.37:1 screen which would have a 16:9 viewing area equivalent of a 135" diagonal screen. That would leave you 5" on each side of the screen (including the 3.5" on each side for the screen frame).

This screen would be just barely smaller than the screen you are currently thinking for 16:9 material, but for 2.35:1 material, you'd need a 16:9 screen with a 181" diagonal to match it.

Granted, you'd either need a lens ($$$) or use the 'zoom method' (at least the RS10 has a powered zoom) to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 material... but it's something to consider.

I love my scope screen. :)

I'd also suggest considering scope as well.

I got the price back, the scope is 18% more expensive than the 137.7diag 16:9. If it helps, I watch a lot of tv, (shows like CSI, House, 24, The Unit, etc) and I also watch a lot of movies. I work from home and often will work in the movie theater with a laptop and tv on. So given a ratio of say 50/50 tv to movies what screen would you recommend? The scope screen I guess I would need curtains or something on the sides that can be used as a masking system when watching 16:9.

We watch about 80% TV and 20% movies. We also do not have a masking system. Again, no regrets going scope.

The only caveat is that we couldn't have gone any larger on the 16:9 screen due to the ceiling height, but we still had the width to go scope and not lose any of the 16:9 size.

You COULD go for a larger 16:9 screen.. so there are pluses and minuses to each choice.

Ruben should be able to give you an idea on if the RS10 can handle the screen sizes you are considering.

I'd also suggest considering scope as well.
Me too!
I did think about it and the idea of the wide screen sounds really cool :)

The only negatives with it for me are: The screen is more $$ (I just emailed smx for a price quote so Ill find out how much more), the lens is definitely more $$ and I wonder if the RS10 can handle that big of a picture (if it was 2:35 movie playing for instance)? If I did get it, I would use the zoom function as spending $3-5k more on a lens is out right now. I've surpassed my budgeted promise to the wife $10k ago:p Would using the zoom show the black bars on the GOM fabric panels (when it bleeds over the screen height on 2:35 movies)?

What size screens do you two have? You both have the panny right?
You could use velvet around the screen to absorb more light than the GOM, but others have more insight on this than I.
One more question about making the back wall (behind the false wall) dead. I cannot find linacoustic anywhere, tomorrow I'm gonna try some commercial hvac wholesalers to see if they carry it. If they don't I'll just have to use the 4" mineral fiber sheets by JM. They'll be more expensive, but I guess they may be even better than linacoustic? I could also cut in half and make em 2" thick. The only problem is they are yellow, so I'd have to cover them with a cheap black fabric. Argh! Did everyone here use linacoustic?
Try Bryan (bpape). He might have it or something similar.

http://sensiblesoundsolutions.com/

On finding Linacoustic you need to go to the JM web site and look on there dealer locater for commercial HVAC insulation supplies. It should tell you who is likely to carry the product in your area.

We watch about 80% TV and 20% movies. We also do not have a masking system. Again, no regrets going scope.


Thanks - do you have a lens or do you zoom? I would use the zoom method and curtains for masking until I was willing to pony up the extra $$ for those two. Do you just watch 16:9 with no masking in place then? How does it look?


You could use velvet around the screen to absorb more light than the GOM, but others have more insight on this than I.


Thanks :)

On finding Linacoustic you need to go to the JM web site and look on there dealer locater for commercial HVAC insulation supplies. It should tell you who is likely to carry the product in your area.

Yeah I found that yesterday and am gonna call some local ones today. I called one yesterday that was listed under commercial suppliers (not neccessarily hvac) and asked them about it and they said linawhat?:)

So I measured the 150" wide 2:35 scope screen and it would leave 5" inches on the sides and 15" on top and bottom. The whole wall would be a biiiig screen:D

It's 16:9 image would be almost the same size as the 120" 16:9 screen.

So I measured the 150" wide 2:35 scope screen and it would leave 5" inches on the sides and 15" on top and bottom. The whole wall would be a biiiig screen:D

It's 16:9 image would be almost the same size as the 120" 16:9 screen.
That makes the decision easy right? ;)

The whole front wall is a screen, doesn't get any better than that!

That makes the decision easy right? ;)

The whole front wall is a screen, doesn't get any better than that!

Haha, yeah it sure sounds nice and it would definitely never leave me wanting for a bigger screen:D

I'm afraid if I don't get the scope now that I'm going to want to down the road and have to replace the screen again.

On the other hand, Im afraid if I buy the scope I'll end up buying a masking system and ana lens:eek: I'll just have to promise myself to use the zoom method for as long as I can :)

I found Linacoustic! Thanks Big. Prices I got are:

1 x 47 x 100 - $195.00

1 x 59 x 100 - $244.50

Is just one layer (1") enough for the back wall?

Awesome build.....love the door. I plan to have our door into the theater mimic a ticket, but probably not as jaw-dropping.

I think the one layer should be good on the back wall, but BIGmouth or chinadog, or Dennis would know how to address that much better than I would.

looking good.


Sean

Thanks Sean.

Ok several updates - I bought the SMX 2:35 150" wide Proline CineWeave!! It's gonna be awesome :) It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I figured it was a smart move because it allows me the most flexibility in the future, ie if I ever wanted to go 2:35 and I only had a 16:9, I'd have to buy yet another screen.

And If I set this up and for whatever reason don't like the 2:35 zoomed, I can always just leave it masked all the time as a 16:9 and it would be the same as a 16:9 screen with the advantage of looking much cooler when the projector is off :) So thank you to all that helped me go with the scope!! I'm already glad I did :)

And today I bought a roll of linacoustic! I had to drive like 1 1/2 hours there and back, but I think it'll be worth it.

They also tore down my old front wall, kind of sad actually, but I think the end product is going to be so much better!! Tomorrow is framing, wiring, and insulating the new back and side dead walls, then drywall!

A couple questions though - is there anything I need to do special on this back wall? I wanna do it right the first time (actually the second but who's counting).

And second, that false wall that is there now is actually from the old front wall. So we might just keep that one there and remove a few of the vertical 2x4's. My question is, that space behind the false wall is 27" from the back of the 2x4 to the front of the concrete. So once the back wall is framed it will be about a 23" space, or 27" if you count to the back side of the screen. Is that enough dead space?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan41.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan42.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan43.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan44.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan45.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan46.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan47.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan48.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan49.jpg

Thanks - do you have a lens or do you zoom? I would use the zoom method and curtains for masking until I was willing to pony up the extra $$ for those two.

Do you just watch 16:9 with no masking in place then? How does it look?



I zoom... With the Panasonic AE3000 projector, zooming to fill certain aspect ratios is made easy since this projector can save the zoom position and focus. I have saved settings for 2.35:1 and 16:9, select the one I want, and the projector zooms and focuses for me.

Correct.. I do not use masking for 16:9 material. It doesn't bother me at all, though if I find a simple/cheap solution, I may eventually do some sort of masking.

There is a good chance the 23 inches will work just fine. It's all about the size of your gear and what kind of sound treatments you are planning. But if I were in your shoes I'd take that remnant of a wall out all together. Then frame out the room and complete a total drywall shell. Then re-erect the false wall inside the drywall room using the minimalist principle.

If you ever need to adjust the wall for a "bigger" speaker purchase later you can. Having the drywall shell will aid in sound containment. And, it will actually be easier to drywall with that frame out of the way.

There is a good chance the 23 inches will work just fine. It's all about the size of your gear and what kind of sound treatments you are planning. But if I were in your shoes I'd take that remnant of a wall out all together. Then frame out the room and complete a total drywall shell. Then re-erect the false wall inside the drywall room using the minimalist principle.

If you ever need to adjust the wall for a "bigger" speaker purchase later you can. Having the drywall shell will aid in sound containment. And, it will actually be easier to drywall with that frame out of the way.

Hey guess what? I agree with Big! :p

Ok thanks we'll tear that one down too and build a new one after drywall. How deep would you make the dead space? I have the paradigm studio 40's now which are 12" deep, and in thinking of the future, the biggest I would go would be the studio 100's or the signature series and those are 17" deep.

So let's figure my speakers are/could be 17" deep and let's figure I do 1" linacoustic everywhere and then 4" mineral fiber directly behind each speaker. So that alone would be 22" and then we need some space in back and front of the speaker - so is like 3' good? And should I do the 4" of mineral fiber behind each LCR?

Looking very good!

Thanks! I just read your build thread and I think I'm gonna copy your idea of the bass traps in the corners of the dead space :)

Is this drawing of the new front wall with the speaker placement/framing of the false wall look ok?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/newscreenwall.jpg

The height placement of the screen will probably be more towards the ceiling since there is a riser, and it's not to scale, but it should give an idea.

I'll install some blocking at the top where the screen mount will be. Would it better to frame out a "picture window" once I know the placement of the screen so there are no studs behind the screen surface, or does it not matter much?

And is it more important for the tweeters on the speakers to be at ear level when seated or be in the middle of the screen? I'm going to build some boxes and fill them with sand and use them for stands.

One thing I was wondering is if the top and bottom panels need to be 2 pieces just for ease of handling.

I'm also not familiar with the SMX screen and it's hanging method. You should verify that your frame design has the right number of attachment points and that they are in the right locations.

One thing I was wondering is if the top and bottom panels need to be 2 pieces just for ease of handling.

Maybe so that's a good point thanks. I guess they should be otherwise they'd be like 13' wide.


I'm also not familiar with the SMX screen and it's hanging method. You should verify that your frame design has the right number of attachment points and that they are in the right locations.

Yes I definitely will, that's where the blocking will come into play.

Thanks for the help. Does everything else look ok?

I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

Light is completely optional. I didn't do it, though I thought about it.

The SMX screen mounts on an 8' metal bracket that screws to the wall. The top edge of the frame hooks on to it, similar to a french cleat.

http://www.smxscreen.com/Pro-Line-White-Paper.pdf

I built my false wall after the carpet, though that was mainly due to my design. If you are building it more like a traditional wall, then you might want to build it before carpeting.

I guess I'm gonna go with 3'. Should the false wall go in before or after carpet? Should I put a light behind there like Ruben did?

3' should leave you plenty of options.

Are you doing a stage or just a false wall? IMO there is no point in carpeting something that will never be seen so I would build the wall (or stage and wall) first.

The lights are entirely up to you. Most people don't have the elaborate setup behind the screen that Ruben does. His alternating panels and matched speakers are great candidates for showing off. The question is, do you want to show off 1" Linacoustic and your Paradigms? Only you can answer that.

Thanks for the fast replies :)

Just talked to the contractor and we're adding the light, he planned to anyway, but he was going to put the switch behind the screen wall. So I asked him to put it before the screen wall so I could flip it on and see the speakers. If it doesn't look good when it's all done, I guess I'll just never use it except to tinker around back there.

Ok thanks, we'll do the wall before the carpet. So just terminate the carpet into the 2x4 framing of the false wall, then the fabric panels cover the edge?

Several updates :)


In addition to what Big has mentioned where is your sub going?

Today I was able to fish a sub cable (actually two for futureproof) to the front stage to the rack, so now the sub will be on the front wall and I've fixed the sub on the rear wall problem.. yay:) I still have the prewire to the rear wall, so I guess in the future I could do one on the front wall and one on the rear.

One more shot over the bow. Isn't that riser curved the wrong way?


And today we talked about ripping out the bow and making it straight across. They're doing that tomorrow. It's gonna leave about an 8' riser in the back and then in front, there's about 11 feet in front of the riser for another row of seats.

I'm really happy with the changes being made. Thanks for all the advice, I feel like I'm not sacrificing anything anymore. :)

Several updates :)



Today I was able to fish a sub cable (actually two for futureproof) to the front stage to the rack, so now the sub will be on the front wall and I've fixed the sub on the rear wall problem.. yay:) I still have the prewire to the rear wall, so I guess in the future I could do one on the front wall and one on the rear.



And today we talked about ripping out the bow and making it straight across. They're doing that tomorrow. It's gonna leave about an 8' riser in the back and then in front, there's about 11 feet in front of the riser for another row of seats.

I'm really happy with the changes being made. Thanks for all the advice, I feel like I'm not sacrificing anything anymore. :)
Is your GC ready to quit yet? :p

I think you'll be much happier in the end. Good moves all around.

Is your GC ready to quit yet? :p

HAHA:D I ask him that every time I make a change.

Well our contract states he pays a 10% penalty if he runs past a certain date and because the doors are running so late he's going to run past that date. I wouldn't ever hold him accountable for it anyway because it's not his fault, it's the trim company's. But he feels bad for it, and is willing to do the work to make up for the delay so I'm using it to my advantage and making the changes :)

And he's said numerous times he wants pictures of the room for his portfolio so I think he wants to make it look the best it can:)

HAHA:D I ask him that every time I make a change.

Well our contract states he pays a 10% penalty if he runs past a certain date and because the doors are running so late he's going to run past that date. I wouldn't ever hold him accountable for it anyway because it's not his fault, it's the trim company's. But he feels bad for it, and is willing to do the work to make up for the delay so I'm using it to my advantage and making the changes :)

And he's said numerous times he wants pictures of the room for his portfolio so I think he wants to make it look the best it can:)

Bonus!

It looks like they got to it today! The riser has been cut down so it's straight now so I can have two rows :) They also tore down the old front wall and insulated. The space back there now is 36"!

The electrician is coming tomorrow to add an outlet back there for the sub and add in a light. Then after that drywall. I thought about the light switch for behind the screen and didn't like the idea of seeing it on the wall before the screen, so I bought a remote control lutron one from Home Depot and then install it behind the screen. So now if I wanna show someone the speakers behind the screen I just use the remote control :)

Eventually (if it really looks cool or if I can even see them at all), I may upgrade to 3 of the same speaker for a better, cleaner look, but I've spent enough this month :)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan51.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan52.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan53.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan54.jpg

I thought about the light switch for behind the screen and didn't like the idea of seeing it on the wall before the screen, so I bought a remote control lutron one from Home Depot and then install it behind the screen. So now if I wanna show someone the speakers behind the screen I just use the remote control :)



Glad you changed your mind. That was the first thing that I thought of when I had read you were contemplating putting a switch in front of the false wall. Progress looks great! Did I already mention how cool that door is :rolleyes:.

Curious why all of your trim is up already. Are you doing fabric walls over the linacoustic? If so, you will need the trim spots to hide the staples. Otherwise, it may be a very tricky wrap.

Curious why all of your trim is up already. Are you doing fabric walls over the linacoustic? If so, you will need the trim spots to hide the staples. Otherwise, it may be a very tricky wrap.

I agree, that might be tricky :)

Not doing linacoustic wrap except for the front wall behind the screen, just acoustic panels in between several of the columns. I hope it will turn out ok :)

I have several of the panels that I've made in my temp theater (spare bedroom) and the difference it makes on the acoustics in the room is incredible. Kind of hard to believe some fabric covered insulation makes that big of a difference.

They spray the trim (once it's installed) and I can't do anything with the panels and such until they spray the trim and paint the walls.

Ok, with the acoustic panels you should be fine. Again, looks great. Is this your GC's first HT build?

Good to hear :) Yes his first and my first for that matter. He's actually the lead trimmer for my builder of the house - he does amazing work, the man can build literally anything. He's branching out to do his own thing while the building industry is so slow. He's done a lot of other basements and small jobs but no HT's before.

I did have a theater in the past, but I was not involved it the build of it at all. For instance, the old one was basically just a room in the basement that they added a projector, screen, speakers and woodwork to. It was only 720p, no double drywall, no insulation, double doors with huge gaps under them, in-wall subs that rattled like crazy..lot's of problems. This time around I said I'm gonna do it right. Little did I know I was messing it up, but now I think I'm on the right track :)

Good to hear :) Yes his first and my first for that matter. He's actually the lead trimmer for my builder of the house - he does amazing work, the man can build literally anything. He's branching out to do his own thing while the building industry is so slow. He's done a lot of other basements and small jobs but no HT's before.

I did have a theater in the past, but I was not involved it the build of it at all. For instance, the old one was basically just a room in the basement that they added a projector, screen, speakers and woodwork to. It was only 720p, no double drywall, no insulation, double doors with huge gaps under them, in-wall subs that rattled like crazy..lot's of problems. This time around I said I'm gonna do it right. Little did I know I was messing it up, but now I think I'm on the right track :)

Same here. While my GC has done basements, house renovations, etc. my build is his first HT (and MY first build too). I have been documenting the progress with a pictorial compendium. I've told him several times how I have just added another dimension to his portfolio. I think the entire build (including other areas of the basement) came out much nicer than he was expecting (good thing, otherwise he may have been tempted to up his estimate).

Same here. While my GC has done basements, house renovations, etc. my build is his first HT (and MY first build too). I have been documenting the progress with a pictorial compendium. I've told him several times how I have just added another dimension to his portfolio. I think the entire build (including other areas of the basement) came out much nicer than he was expecting (good thing, otherwise he may have been tempted to up his estimate).

I think it really helps when they care about the outcome too (for their portfolio) otherwise I'd think they would take whatever shortcuts they can to make the most buck.

Ok one more update, I'm thinking of returning the Paradigm Ultracube 10 and getting a SVS sub, like maybe the ultra. Anyone have one of these behind an AT screen - does it work ok, and does it move the air too much and shake the screen?

Well from some feedback on the sub forum and from SVS, I gathered it's probably better to go with the PC13-Ultra over the PB as the PC is downward firing. I'm not sure the PB would have caused any screen vibrations, but I think the PC would be a safe bet and from what I understand they're very similar in sound.

I returned the Paradigm Ultracube and bought the PC13-Ultra. I'm excited to see how much better it sounds than the cube :)

More progress today..

They double drywalled the new front wall and started the mud. I told them they don't need to sand :)

So I followed SatelliteGuy's build and did bass traps in the corners (I also put some on the ceiling). What I plan to do (after they spray the trim) is staple the linacoustic all around the front area and cover those up, so it looks like one big black hole. I followed some of the acoustic threads advice and cut a 24x48x4 panel of mineral wool in half and put it in back of the full size ones. So in the corners there's really 8" of bass trap:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan61.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan62.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan63.jpg

I also built one of the stands Im gonna use for the studio 40's. The tweeter height on the 40's is 20", so I made these 28" tall to put all the tweeters at 48" high. I've never built anything before so I know it doesn't look great. I plan to fill it with sand after painting it black. For aesthetics, I am not sure about the top of it, whether I should make it the same size as the speaker bottom or leave it bigger like it is?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan64.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan65.jpg

Hey, I have one almost like that. Be sure to fill it with sand close to the final position where it will sit. It will weigh more than you thought.

Cut the top to the size of the speaker or smaller. Anything bigger creates an opportunity for an unwanted sound reflection.

Hey, I have one almost like that. Be sure to fill it with sand close to the final position where it will sit. It will weigh more than you thought.

Cut the top to the size of the speaker or smaller. Anything bigger creates an opportunity for an unwanted sound reflection.

I'll bet yours looks better than mine:D

Ok I'll cut the tops down to speaker bottom size. Should I wrap the stands in linacoustic you think to minimize reflections? Thanks

I'll bet yours looks better than mine:D

Ok I'll cut the tops down to speaker bottom size. Should I wrap the stands in linacoustic you think to minimize reflections? Thanks


Not really. I mean how good can a sand filled MDF box painted black look?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00502.jpg

Wrapping in Linacoustic never occurred to me but I guess why not.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00502.jpg


I like seeing that picture :)

Today I got the stands completed. That MDF dust is pretty nasty!! Painted them mouse ears black. All in all I think they turned out great. The tweeter levels all match up at 48". (I wish I could find 1 studio 40 for sale:)) All seams are glued and screwed except for the tops, so I can open em up once they're in place and fill them with sand. :)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/stand1.jpg


I did try it out in my temp setup and I can't use the center speaker one because of how high it sits. But while it was still in place, I watched and listed for a few minutes and granted I'm only at 36" high seated without a riser, it sounded really great..like the screen was talking to me:)

I liked it a lot more than under the screen..I can't wait for the real thing behind the screen:D

...(I wish I could find 1 studio 40 for sale:))
You could always turn your center on its end. ;)

I tested the projector and screen size out today to make sure everything is going to work ok. I'm going to move the false wall back about 6" so there will be about 30" behind there. I'd like the extra headroom so the projector is not completely zoomed out.

Anyway I took a pic (with my iphone so quality is kinda poor) of a 2:35 movie, Babylon AD, haven't seen it yet, but on some wrinkled up sheets hung from the ceiling it looked awesome. I can't wait!!:D

This is a 2:35 150" wide image!!

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/screentest.jpg

sweet

Not regretting going scope I take it :D?

Not regretting going scope I take it :D?

Not at all!!:D

I'm trying not to watch any new release blu rays so I can save them for premier opening week:D

You could always turn your center on its end. ;)

LOL:). I did call my local dealer to see if he can order one for me. He said he may be able to and he's gonna call tomorrow. That would be great.

Ok I tested a 12x12 square of linacoustic and used a 9/16 staple gun to staple it to the wall. I noticed some of the staples didn't hold in the drywall. How are you guys attaching your linacoustic to the wall? And would the staples reflect light through the screen? Should I use spray adhesive instead?

Ok I tried some 3m 77 adhesive spray on my 12"x12" of linacoustic and that definitely worked. It stayed by itself immediately so I let it dry for about an hour and then tried to wiggle it. When it didn't move, I tried to peel it off and couldn't. So finally I got it off the wall, but it tore the insulation in half instead of actually coming off the wall:) So I guess I'm gonna use that adhesive and maybe screw in the tops and sides for extra support where it is not behind the screen area.

I just used a few drywall screws and years later it is still up. Like 8 screws for every 4x8 panel. No glue fumes. just screw them down until they slightly compress the coated side which should be facing out.

I just used a few drywall screws and years later it is still up. Like 8 screws for every 4x8 panel. No glue fumes. just screw them down until they slightly compress the coated side which should be facing out.

I feel stupid why I didn't think of that when that's what I used on the 4" mineral fiber (minus the washers). Thanks Big, I'll try that. I should be installing the linacoustic this week.

You know I just looked and you can see them in the picture of my naked stage.

LOL:). I did call my local dealer to see if he can order one for me. He said he may be able to and he's gonna call tomorrow. That would be great.

He said Paradigm is totally out and are no longer available. Oh well. I swapped my current center with one of the other studio 40's and I actually like the center more, I guess cause maybe it has an extra woofer. I dunno, but I'll keep it for a while :)

You know I just looked and you can see them in the picture of my naked stage.

Thanks, I must be blind. :)

I want to do remote control lights in the theater and I am not sure if I want to spend $500+ on a Grafik Eye. I was thinking of doing the Lutron wireless ones, but I just bought one of those for behind the screen and if I mount 1-2 of them for the main room it would trigger that one too. So maybe I can get a Z-Wave single pole switch for maybe the sconces for the main room and then leave the lutron for the switch behind the stage? I have a Harmony 890 remote.

I want to do remote control lights in the theater and I am not sure if I want to spend $500+ on a Grafik Eye. I was thinking of doing the Lutron wireless ones, but I just bought one of those for behind the screen and if I mount 1-2 of them for the main room it would trigger that one too. So maybe I can get a Z-Wave single pole switch for maybe the sconces for the main room and then leave the lutron for the switch behind the stage? I have a Harmony 890 remote.

Well, I researched a little bit more and I think I found a way to do it with multiple lutron remote switches. So I ordered them in black and we'll see if it works:)

So today the GC got the projector shelf installed. It doesn't seem quite like I envisioned it. I think it might just be because it seems so big? I dunno, I'm sure it will look better once it's all painted. It has a removable front which he built just in case I wanted to make it more hidden and just make a hole for the lens. Although if we use that, maybe we should install some vents in the top/sides? The RS10 does have a front air intake which is nice. He also installed some nosing on the riser to make it a little nicer once the carpet is installed.

Speaking of the painting though, my room is black and the trim is gold. So what do you think I should do about painting the following items:

Rack frame/rack door (door will have smoked glass) - should one/both of them be gold or black?
Projector shelf corbels - gold?
Projector shelf trim (the white trim in the pics) - gold?
Inside theater door casing - gold?
Trim inside door (from viewing from the theater room, there are two trim panels recessed in the door, see pic. Should I paint those two trim pieces black like the rest of the door, or gold?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb91.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb92.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb93.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb94.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb95.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb96.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb97.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb98.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb99.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/door.jpg

Thanks :)

Bet you are getting theater fever as you see all the finishing details get close to completion. Looks great.

You need to figure out how to ventilate that projector box. I don't think a few holes will help much. Same for the equipment rack. If you search threads for cooling hush box and cooling equipment closet you will get ideas for what others have done.

First critical issue is that projector box. If you want to put a front on it you either need case fans for the box or hook it up to a silent bathroom exhaust fan with a duct into other spaces or the outside. Without a plan you may cook your projector. If you can't come up with a ventilation plan you may be better off to leave the projector on an open shelf with no sides or top.

Bet you are getting theater fever as you see all the finishing details get close to completion. Looks great.

Yes:D


You need to figure out how to ventilate that projector box. I don't think a few holes will help much. Same for the equipment rack. If you search threads for cooling hush box and cooling equipment closet you will get ideas for what others have done.

First critical issue is that projector box. If you want to put a front on it you either need case fans for the box or hook it up to a silent bathroom exhaust fan with a duct into other spaces or the outside. Without a plan you may cook your projector. If you can't come up with a ventilation plan you may be better off to leave the projector on an open shelf with no sides or top.


Thanks. Yeah I'm going to leave the front off of the projector shelf then. I'd like to keep the sides. I can probably add a fan like computers have. Would that work?

As for the rack, we already have a plan, the back is removable and also the back side is in the mechanical room so we're gonna add a fan or a cold air return, which do you think is best?

I just realized that's what a case fan is sorry. What size/power case fan would be good for the projector box and if applicable the rack?

I just realized that's what a case fan is sorry. What size/power case fan would be good for the projector box and if applicable the rack?I've never built one, my projector is hanging in mid air.

Here is one Potential solution for the projector box. If you put this on the top of the back, You said the projector draws in air from the front and as long as the front is off you have a source of fresh air. Where does it exhaust?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=20319&filter=cabinet%20fan I'm sure you can kind find cheaper alternatives.

For the equipment rack a lot of guys have used Panasonic whisper line bathroom exhaust fans. I have an in-line Fantech duct fan buried in insulation up in the ceiling joists.
You can control either with a line voltage Attic fan thermostat. $20.

I like the exhaust fan idea for the rack thanks. And thanks for the link on the projector fan. The projector vents from the sides, which is why I made the box 24" wide, the projector is only 14" wide so figured that would give it a lot of room to breath. The height is also only 6 1/2" and the box is 16", so there's 9.5" on the top and 5" on each side.

With the front off and air intake in the front, I would think it would be ok as is?

But spending the $108 on the fan you linked to sounds worth it though either way just to be safe. I would just install that and use a wall wart to hook it up and it's set? :)

For the equipment rack a lot of guys have used Panasonic whisper line bathroom exhaust fans.

Will this one work for the rack?

http://www.rewci.com/panfv05.html

Forgive me for being stupid, but would I just mount that to the top of the rack (in back) and then have a vent hose go in the ceiling joists like you mentioned? Would it work to just wire it to an ac plug and use the outlet on the receiver so it always goes on when the receiver does?

Not at all!!:D

I'm trying not to watch any new release blu rays so I can save them for premier opening week:D

I've been doing this for like a year! I'm going to be like Queen when I get done; up all night catching up on movies :D

CD

I'm going to be like Queen when I get done; up all night catching up on movies :D
CD
Me too :) I still have like 3-4 weeks though :(

With the front off and air intake in the front, I would think it would be ok as is?


You might want to give it a try. Put a thermometer at the back of the box and check it every couple of minutes after the projector fires up. Don't ask me what is acceptable it might be in your user manual.

Will this one work for the rack?

http://www.rewci.com/panfv05.html

Forgive me for being stupid, but would I just mount that to the top of the rack (in back) and then have a vent hose go in the ceiling joists like you mentioned? Would it work to just wire it to an ac plug and use the outlet on the receiver so it always goes on when the receiver does?

I like the idea of a thermostat so that it only runs when needed. It also cycles some air after the gear is turned off until everything has cooled down.

The vent hose can go into the adjacent room. It can go outside like a bathroom vent (lowers overall house HVAC efficiency). Some guys have hooked it directly into the return side duct of the air handler.

You might want to give it a try. Put a thermometer at the back of the box and check it every couple of minutes after the projector fires up. Don't ask me what is acceptable it might be in your user manual.

Thanks for the help. I checked the manual and it's 95 degrees. I'll try it first like you mentioned.

I like the idea of a thermostat so that it only runs when needed. It also cycles some air after the gear is turned off until everything has cooled down.

The vent hose can go into the adjacent room. It can go outside like a bathroom vent (lowers overall house HVAC efficiency). Some guys have hooked it directly into the return side duct of the air handler.

Ok thanks. I ordered the panasonic fan for the rack. I'll have the electrician try the stat when he comes back. Thanks again for the help. I don't want an A/V Oven:D

I'm trying to lay out my stud wall for my screen and I am not sure about LR placements. Should they be about 2-3 feet in from the sides or maybe in 25% of the screen width? Just don't want to add a stud right next to them.

My thinking on the stud wall is..

From the center point, each side is a mirror of the other:

2' out from center (this allows 4' for center channel and will serve as main supports for screen mount)
2'6" out from center (these will simply serve as extra supports for screen mount)
6" in from wall (this is the edge of the screen so I can mount the GOM panels)
0" in from wall (this is edge of wall so I can mount the GOM panels)

Then I'm thinking of speaker placement at about 38-40" from the center since that's 1/4 of the screen width. My mounting bracket is 8' which would leave the end 1.5 feet of the bracket with no support. So another option would be to put the extra support stud at 5' from the center and use blocking inbetween the 2' and 5' studs.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Shawn

Another option would be to maybe put them right at the edges of where the 16:9 image would be, so like 55" from the center or so? That would leave about 29" from the side walls and would put studs at

2' from center
3' from center
6" from wall
0" from wall

It doesn't seem quite like I envisioned it.
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb91.jpg


That's because you need to add trim to the top to match with the bottom, or better plan really, you should cut the crown, make the box tall enough to fit flush with the ceiling and wrap the crown around it. Or at least try to make the top match the top of the columns. It's all in the details.

Good idea, thanks! :)

I talked to the GC, he's going to add the crown across the sides and front so it looks like it 'grew out of the wall' (his words :) ).

My screen is coming tomorrow:D It's not ready to go up yet of course, but I want to plan it so I don't have to scramble at the end :) So one more question about placement. I followed the THX chart and figured the second level eye line to be half way up and the first level eye line to be 1/3 up. And it becomes a 8" space on the bottom of the screen (including frame) and the floor, and a 22" space between the top of the frame and ceiling.

I'm thinking 8" is too low to the ground and would probably look better if it was just centered in the wall. That would leave about 15'2" on the top and bottom of the screen frame. For reference, my riser is about 7", and I have berkline recliners where when reclined eye level is 36". What do you think?

You might want to give it a try. Put a thermometer at the back of the box and check it every couple of minutes after the projector fires up. Don't ask me what is acceptable it might be in your user manual.

Ok I tried the thermometer in there with the projector on high lamp mode. The exhaust of the projector is on the left side if looking at the lens. The lens is also centered more on that side so as to allow more room for the vent.


http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/proj.jpg

When I had it on (about 60 mins or so) I checked it every 5-10 mins for levels. At the end I moved it around inside the box. My findings are:

Room temp is 70 degrees (they have the heat on to dry the mud).

On top rear of the projector - 75-78 degrees
On right rear of projector - 71-72 degrees
On left rear of projector by vent - 100 degrees

So it seems the overall temp of the box doesn't seem much higher than room temp. The side by the exhaust is hot even when not on the shelf, so I don't know what to think of that result. So what do you think? My GC thinks we should just add a HVAC grill to the top (and maybe the side by the vent) and use it without the front cover.

My GOM fr701 came today, well part of it atleast.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/fr7011.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/fr7012.jpg

I ordered from FabricMate, and I'm not too pleased with them. First check out their ad:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=BRL&q=GOM+fr701&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=

Guilford of Maine - FR701
www.fabricmate.com All Guilford fabrics in stock Lowest prices and same-day shipping

Well I ordered from them on 1/27/08 and I just got it today and it says "3 Day Shipping" on the package. So obviously they had some misleading advertising going on there. When I emailed them about it, they never responded. Finally I had to call them and they said it will ship soon, then put me on hold and said it shipped yesterday (this was Monday).

Anyway, I ordered 3 yards to see how it looked when it arrived knowing I'd be ordering more. Well it came to like $43 so I was ok with it, but they don't tell you shipping on their site, they "notify you" later. So on my invoice it came to be almost $80 after shipping.

Anyway, seeing as how I need more, I placed an order for 8 additional yards from GIK and for all 8 yards, shipped it's gonna be $120. That's $15 per yard vs $26 per yard at FabricMate. So hopefully the experience with him will be better than FM's. Anyway, just wanted to update anyone looking for GOM on what to expect..:)

note to self, GIK.

Anyway, seeing as how I need more, I placed an order for 8 additional yards from GIK and for all 8 yards, shipped it's gonna be $120. That's $15 per yard vs $26 per yard at FabricMate. So hopefully the experience with him will be better than FM's. Anyway, just wanted to update anyone looking for GOM on what to expect..:)

Too bad I didn't know about GIK before. However, I have to say that my experience with FM was great. They informed me of shipping costs right away and it shipped incredibly fast. I think I got it within two business days. But $$ is $$. If GIK is cheaper I would have definitely gone that route.

Another option:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC02335.jpg

Another brain fart. Router out some slots mimicking the column fluting, just go all the way through to provide some venting at the rear sides of the now slightly smaller box.

note to self, gik.

+1

cd

Another option:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC02335.jpg

Another brain fart. Router out some slots mimicking the column fluting, just go all the way through to provide some venting at the rear sides of the now slightly smaller box.

Me rikey!!!! Thanks :) I printed it out and will give it to GC!

I've been doing this for like a year! I'm going to be like Queen when I get done; up all night catching up on movies :D

CD

It was much easier for me though since I had forbidden my husband to even get a BD player in advance of the theater despite the fact that I had been "collecting" movies. Now I've got over a shelf of BDs but so little time. Work was kind enough to feed this habit but somehow didn't get the memo on allowing me to truly enjoy it yet ;).

Me rikey!!!! Thanks :) I printed it out and will give it to GC!

There are an awful lot of GCs walking around town holding BIG diagrams :eek:.

Tomorrow's a big day, my SMX and SVS come!!

There are an awful lot of GCs walking around town holding BIG diagrams :eek:.

They're all secretly meeting trying to find out his identity for making them do so much extra work:D

They're all secretly meeting trying to find out his identity for making them do so much extra work:D

BIG LOL. You don't know how many times my GC has said "And who exactly is this guy"?

Well I ordered from them on 1/27/08 and I just got it today and it says "3 Day Shipping" on the package.

Holy crap! Over a year! :eek:











;)

Holy crap! Over a year! :eek:
;)


Doh!:D

Another option:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC02335.jpg

Another brain fart. Router out some slots mimicking the column fluting, just go all the way through to provide some venting at the rear sides of the now slightly smaller box.

Talked to the GC today and he loves your idea. Not sure if he loves doing the extra work but who cares:p

He's gonna cut it down like your sketch and then make the flutes go all the way through for air flow. It was a great idea, thank you!!

Bringing
It
Graphically

One napkin at a time that is.

http://www.core77.com/blog/images/core77review_napkin3.jpg

Got one of my toys today!

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs4.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs5.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/svs6.jpg


Now since the real theater isn't ready yet I wanna use it in my temp one upstairs...hmm how will I get it up?:eek: Maybe ask the wife to put a little muscle in it:D

Another option:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC02335.jpg

Ok done!! I really like it:D Thanks Big!

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf4.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf5.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/shelf6.jpg

Look what a transformation it is from the old!
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb91.jpg

Ok done!! I really like it:D Thanks Big!



WOW! Your GC is good! Of course Big is good too! ;)

looks great. Patent pending.

You should try your temperature test again. Fingers crossed.

Thanks guys. Will do the temp tomorrow. I would bet money it's gonna be fine, but I'll test just to be sure :)

Sub came today, but no screen. I think they're coming tomorrow instead. So far the sub sounds awesome, but I gotta watch a movie with some explosions to see how it compares to the ultracube.

I also picked up a B&K power amp to power my LCR. I heard some clipping while playing music pretty loud with my 3808 and I figured it was time to look for extra power. It is AWESOME!!! I can't believe I lived without it for so long. Even the bass in my Studio 40's sound so much fuller and they're set to small. Much fuller sound all around. On the music test where I heard the clipping I got down to -5db on the denon control, now with the amp I got to -10db and it became almost too loud and no clipping or distortion. So I'm happy with it :)

.

I also picked up a B&K power amp to power my LCR. I heard some clipping while playing music pretty loud with my 3808 and I figured it was time to look for extra power. It is AWESOME!!! I can't believe I lived without it for so long. Even the bass in my Studio 40's sound so much fuller and they're set to small. Much fuller sound all around. On the music test where I heard the clipping I got down to -5db on the denon control, now with the amp I got to -10db and it became almost too loud and no clipping or distortion. So I'm happy with it :)

I've got the same amp powering my LCR :D. By the way, the transformation on the projector box looks awesome! Beautifully designed and beautifully constructed.

I've got the same amp powering my LCR :D. By the way, the transformation on the projector box looks awesome! Beautifully designed and beautifully constructed.

You should have convinced me to get one earlier!!:D

Thanks, I'm extremely impressed with how it turned out and kinda feel embarrassed looking at the first draft of it compared to the new.

Bigs idea on the fluted vents was brilliant btw:)

Man I am jealous...So many beautiful theaters on this site. Looks like you are on your way to an incredible room! Very nice.
George

Man I am jealous...So many beautiful theaters on this site. Looks like you are on your way to an incredible room! Very nice.
George

Thanks, yeah there are some waaayyy nicer than mine too. I'm in awe of many of them.

Yours will be great, build that false wall do your AT screen and watch some movies:D

BIG LOL. You don't know how many times my GC has said "And who exactly is this guy"?

Yeah, I'd be willing to bet my GC's favorite phrase is "Well......the guys on the Internet..."

CD

My GOM fr701 came today, well part of it atleast.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/fr7011.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/fr7012.jpg

I ordered from FabricMate, and I'm not too pleased with them. First check out their ad:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=BRL&q=GOM+fr701&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=



Well I ordered from them on 1/27/08 and I just got it today and it says "3 Day Shipping" on the package. So obviously they had some misleading advertising going on there. When I emailed them about it, they never responded. Finally I had to call them and they said it will ship soon, then put me on hold and said it shipped yesterday (this was Monday).

Anyway, I ordered 3 yards to see how it looked when it arrived knowing I'd be ordering more. Well it came to like $43 so I was ok with it, but they don't tell you shipping on their site, they "notify you" later. So on my invoice it came to be almost $80 after shipping.

Anyway, seeing as how I need more, I placed an order for 8 additional yards from GIK and for all 8 yards, shipped it's gonna be $120. That's $15 per yard vs $26 per yard at FabricMate. So hopefully the experience with him will be better than FM's. Anyway, just wanted to update anyone looking for GOM on what to expect..:)

Today I got the order from GIK. It took 3 days from the order date to having in my hand. So much better than Fabricmate (and cheaper!). I know who I'll be ordering my next batch from :)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/smx1.jpg

Also my SMX came!!! 150" wide 2:35 CineWeave:D:D

Thanks Jason, Ruben and Ray!! SMX has been amazing to deal with so far.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/smx2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/smx3.jpg

Man this box is huge - 14' feet long! And it came on freight tractor trailer. He called me at the end of my driveway and said, uhh I can't get up there. So I walked down and he said I guess I'll help you carry it up:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/drive.jpg

Theme song for your build:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COMsKPeWAsw

Theme song for your build:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COMsKPeWAsw

:p

One more update on the SVS. I watched Bangkok Dangerous on blu ray today and it's probably not the best bass movie out there, the SVS was just unbelievable. It filled the entire room with bass, yet didn't sound boomy. I'm really happy with it. :)

T
Also my SMX came!!! 150" wide 2:35 CineWeave:D:D

Thanks Jason, Ruben and Ray!! SMX has been amazing to deal with so far.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/smx2.jpg


That's a familiar looking box! Yes, I was duly impressed with the packaging. You're going to laugh but I kept those black velvet wrapped mdf L brackets. I plan on hanging them up in the garage to throw some tools/shovels/junk on.

Where did you find the original "inspiration picture"? Was it on this forum?

Where did you find the original "inspiration picture"? Was it on this forum?

No, not on this forum. It was taken by the photographer: landmarkphotodesign.com that my old builder uses: www.sebernhomes.com

I just found it on his website and loved it :)

A couple more changes, I can't help myself:D This is it though, I'm done for a while!

I changed amps, I got an Anthem MCA50 instead of the B&K. I like it's match and power better for my Paradigms (seeing as it's made by Paradigm it makes sense :) ).

And then I picked up a pair of ADP-590 to replace my atoms surrounds. I still have the atoms for the rears, I know I should upgrade those too, but I'm content for now.

I watched about 30 minutes of Max Payne on Blu Ray tonight (I cant wait for the 2:35 screen!) and with the new amp, the SVS and the new surrounds I am in love with my new equipment!

Kinda funny, I replaced all the equipment that I originally had when I started this thread. But thousands of dollars later I think I've got a much better system, better sub, better speakers, better projector, better amp, and definitely a better and bigger screen:D

Ok I think I have a disease. I couldn't help myself today but wonder what the studio 100's would be like compared to my 40's and cc center. So I went in and tried out the new 100's v5's and I was in awe with the amount of bass and clarity. It seems when I played rock type of songs, my 40's sounded a little muffled by themselves with nothing to compare it to, and when compared to the 100's it was night and day difference. My studio 40's are awesome don't get me wrong, but the 100's are better to me.

So I bought 3 new Studio 100's to use as my new LCR:D:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/studios1.jpg

I think having the same speaker across the front behind the screen is gonna be awesome. The only downside is I made the speaker stands for nothing:o

Now I'm done upgrading!!!

There is no known cure.

There is no known cure.

Except to stay off of the forum and never step foot into your dealer again, or any friend that has a setup better than your own :D.

There is no known cure.

That's what I'm afraid of:eek:

Except to stay off of the forum and never step foot into your dealer again, or any friend that has a setup better than your own :D.

Luckily, I don't think any of my friends/neighbors etc will have as awesome as a system as the one I'm gonna have. I'll have to show it off when it's done:cool:

Once again its because of this forum (thanks for everyone's help so far) that I have the system I do, otherwise I'd still have a small 16:9 screen, a dim projector and some less than stellar speakers stuck in recessed cavities:D

So I bought 3 new Studio 100's to use as my new LCR:D:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/studios1.jpg



Very nice Shawn! We actually demo'd these early on in our build and really liked them. We initially chose the B&Ws over them only because the cabinetry looked nicer (this was when the build had the speakers freestanding in front of a fixed screen :eek:). But we've got Monitor 11s in our family room and have always been impressed with the bang for your buck on Paradigms. And those 100s look absolutely sweet without the grilles (not that it matters behind your AT screen but YOU know so that's all that counts ;)).

Thanks, I saw you too had three identical speakers behind the screen so I had to copy you again!! :) Kind of funny how we both changed from a fixed 16:9 screen to a SMX Scope..must be BIG's fault:D

Yes I love how they look and how they sound. Luckily now I'm maxed out on the studio line and don't want to venture into the signature line so hopefully I won't spend any more money.

Thanks, I saw you too had three identical speakers behind the screen so I had to copy you again!! :) Kind of funny how we both changed from a fixed 16:9 screen to a SMX Scope..must be BIG's fault:D

Yes I love how they look and how they sound. Luckily now I'm maxed out on the studio line and don't want to venture into the signature line so hopefully I won't spend any more money.

I feel compelled to point out, however, that my third speaker is specifically designed as a center channel but it looks just like the L and R speakers. Maybe check out the Paradigm thread to inquire whether the Studio CC590 or 690 (even though they're horizontal) would be more appropriate for your build. Or maybe you already did that? I don't mean to cause worry but I also don't want my build to mislead you either.

I feel compelled to point out, however, that my third speaker is specifically designed as a center channel but it looks just like the L and R speakers. Maybe check out the Paradigm thread to inquire whether the Studio CC590 or 690 (even though they're horizontal) would be more appropriate for your build. Or maybe you already did that? I don't mean to cause worry but I also don't want my build to mislead you either.

I was just kidding :) But I did think it was the same, it looks it atleast. You didn't mislead me!!

As for my paradigms, from almost everyone I've asked and my research has told me identical vertical speakers up front is the utmost ideal situation, but not usually possible since the center would be in the middle of the screen, which isn't an issue with the smx:)

Today I got the exhaust fan for the rack! Thanks Big :)

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/fan1.jpg

This thing is pretty big and the grill is white, I guess I'm gonna try to spray paint it black before they install it.

Also just picked up my first blu ray movies. I usually rent, but figured I should have atleast a few in my collection. I only got the ones on sale that I liked, they were about $15 each at Best Buy. Paying $30-$40 for ones not on sale seemed crazy to me.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/bluray1.jpg

I can't wait to watch Black Hawk Down with the volume cranked:D

I plan to get quite a few of the reference quality ones from the PQ & AQ threads!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=858316
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=918734

Another thread I missed!

Your theater is looking great. I'll echo the cool door comments, and I think you'll be very happy with the changes you've made so far. I'm glad to see another Illinois theater as well (when is the first home theater meet! ;) )

Looking forward to the final pics, when is your estimated completion?

Thanks Warren! Glad to see another Illinois member too, I haven't seen too many. We'll have to have a meet in the summer time:D

ETA is supposed to be about the first week of March. I say supposed to be because it changes all the time. All because our interior doors are delayed.

But good news is the painters are coming tomorrow to start prep work (filling nail holes, caulking joints etc) and doors should be coming late this week or early next. Then about 10 days from there for painting, electric trim and carpet then and I can start my install:D:D

It should only take me a day to install it all, not including the gom panels for the screen wall which hopefully I can build before then. After the install though I'll have my plate full with the acoustics:eek:

not including the GOM panels for the screen wall which hopefully I can build before then.

I actually had my screen wall competed many months before I installed the carpet (in fact I think we watched movies for over a year with a concrete floor). I just used 1/2 inch scraps of wood as proxies for the carpet and pad. However the panels fit a little more snug then I planed so maybe 9/16 or 5/8 is the correct size depending on choice of carpet and pad.

Thanks, that's a good point. My carpet should be going in about 2 days after painting's done so I guess I won't have much time to do it beforehand. I do plan to make them all and hang them with the screen and then make adjustments if necessary and then paint the frames and cover them in GOM.

But then last night I thought maybe it would be better to just hang the screen once the carpets in and start watching some movies and see how the screen height placement feels first before building the top and bottom panels. But if I start watching movies will I ever get it done?:D

No all work stops. But you should do a height test with seating in place.

Good news the doors are coming tomorrow:D

About two more weeks and I'll have a theater!!!

Shawnwalters:
Very nice build, can’t wait to see the finished room.
I have a question about the size of screen you have. I see that your screen is close to the walls, is it a distraction being that close?
My room is 125” wide so I was think of putting a 120” wide SMX screen on a false wall just not sure if being that close to the wall is going to look good.

Hey are those 100’s black? If so could you post some side shots? I would like to see the new finish.
I have the 100’s v4 and have been considering selling and getting the new ones.

Well I copied BIG's build and am planning to wrap the front wall ceiling before the soffit and the two side walls up till the first column in GOM if the light reflects off the black paint. I have about 6" on each side of the screen (about 9" with the frame) so it does come pretty close to the side walls. I guess I'll find out how it looks when it's installed!

Yes they're black v5's. They're awesome!! I almost don't want to hide them behind the screen:D. I'll take some more shots and post them soon.

Shawnwalters:
Hey are those 100’s black? If so could you post some side shots? I would like to see the new finish.
I have the 100’s v4 and have been considering selling and getting the new ones.

Here's some more pics, they look so great without the grills and paradigm even says to use them with or without grills (normally they say leave grills on). I'm of course going to leave the grills off behind the screen.

And the non parallel box is supposed to cut down on standing waves etc.

PS, they weigh like 90lbs each or so, which isn't a bad thing, except when you have to move them:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s1.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s2.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s3.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s4.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s5.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s6.jpg



I also picked up a new blu ray:)
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/100s7.jpg

I love those speakers, I wouldn't want to hide those babies behind a screen:) Your room is going to look and sound great. Subscribed!

Thanks Warren! Glad to see another Illinois member too, I haven't seen too many. We'll have to have a meet in the summer time:D

ETA is supposed to be about the first week of March. I say supposed to be because it changes all the time. All because our interior doors are delayed.

But good news is the painters are coming tomorrow to start prep work (filling nail holes, caulking joints etc) and doors should be coming late this week or early next. Then about 10 days from there for painting, electric trim and carpet then and I can start my install:D:D

It should only take me a day to install it all, not including the gom panels for the screen wall which hopefully I can build before then. After the install though I'll have my plate full with the acoustics:eek:

Hopefully the Illinois group will start to take off this year. There is a meet coming up soon, here is the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1096878 You can contact Zamboniman for the info, it would be great for another atendee!

ETA first of March, wow! I'm either starting a new one in March, and hope to be done in August of 2010, or we are going to build an addition and it will go in there, in which case it will be, um... longer.

Keep the pics going!

Thanks for the pictures :)
I like the looks better then the version 4's I have. Might have to sell mine.
It's ashame to hide them behind the screen.

I love those speakers, I wouldn't want to hide those babies behind a screen:) Your room is going to look and sound great. Subscribed!

Thanks :)

Hopefully the Illinois group will start to take off this year. There is a meet coming up soon, here is the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1096878 You can contact Zamboniman for the info, it would be great for another atendee!

ETA first of March, wow! I'm either starting a new one in March, and hope to be done in August of 2010, or we are going to build an addition and it will go in there, in which case it will be, um... longer.

Keep the pics going!

You were serious - There really is a meet! Pretty cool :)

Thanks for the pictures :)
I like the looks better then the version 4's I have. Might have to sell mine.
It's ashame to hide them behind the screen.

Thanks, yeah I'm hoping (with an emphasis on hope) that the light behind the screen works like I want it to and then I can at least see them every now and then by hitting a switch.

A couple more updates :)

I bought the new Studio 10's for my rears to replace my atoms. Now I'm done, no really I am:D

Stock photo of the 10's:
http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadgethd.com/media/2009/01/20090108-paradigmstudio10100.jpg


Now I just have to find wall mounts that will work for the 10's. I'm thinking these will work:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iIrwOssqy8J/p_121BT77B/B-Tech-BT77-Black.html?tp=2727

So now my speakers all match:

Reference 100's for LCR
Reference ADP-590 for Surrounds
Reference 10's for Rears

And then I went to blockbuster to rent some of the new release blu rays and saw they now offer previously viewed blu rays. Many of them were $29.99, so they were hardly a deal, but some of the titles were only $16.99. And I remember the same titles at Best Buy were $29.99 so I figured I would try the previously viewed versions. So I picked up 6 new blu rays! I think I'm going to watch Dark Knight as my first movie in the theater:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/movies1.jpg

I hope the quality is ok, it says they are guaranteed, but what if I don't watch them for a month. Anyway I'll also have to buy new cases probably from here if I want them to all match:

http://www.sleevetown.com/blu-ray-hd-dvd-case.shtml

So that's another buck. But if they work just as good as new I still saved $10+ on each one :)

A couple more updates :)

I bought the new Studio 10's for my rears to replace my atoms. Now I'm done, no really I am:D


Why do I not believe you? :p

What are you going to do with your "old" speakers?

Neither does my wife:p

I traded them all in to the dealer towards the new ones! Luckily they are great to me and gave me the price I paid for them back towards the new ones.

Neither does my wife:p

I traded them all in to the dealer towards the new ones! Luckily they are great to me and gave me the price I paid for them back towards the new ones.
I figured that was the case. The dealers I used to work for had similar programs. Most people didn't take them up on it, but a few did.

Shawn

Not sure how you plan on doing your screen wall but I have pics of the way I friction fit my 12' SMX screen. Since my screen was so large I only needed to make small panels around the screen and covered them with fidelio

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13013008#post13013008

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12633504#post12633504

I'm also interested on how those new speakers will sound when you have everything done :)

Thanks Scott! That's a pretty smart idea:)

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa192/W00lly/HTRoom404.jpg

I guess I could figure the height placement of the screen with the 6 or so studs I'm planning and then cut them down to friction fit the screen. Did you friction fit the top and sides just like the bottom?

Btw, love your theater and that bar is stunning. At parties you could have a real bartender!

Yes the frame sits inside a frame of 2x4's covered in fedelio. That screen is pretty heavy when its all put together and having it friction fit makes it pretty easy for 2 people to take it out to mess with speakers and what not.

A couple more updates :)

I bought the new Studio 10's for my rears to replace my atoms. Now I'm done, no really I am:D





Now I just have to find wall mounts that will work for the 10's. I'm thinking these will work:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iIrwOssqy8J/p_121BT77B/B-Tech-BT77-Black.html?tp=2727

So now my speakers all match:

Reference 100's for LCR
Reference ADP-590 for Surrounds
Reference 10's for Rears

And then I went to blockbuster to rent some of the new release blu rays and saw they now offer previously viewed blu rays. Many of them were $29.99, so they were hardly a deal, but some of the titles were only $16.99. And I remember the same titles at Best Buy were $29.99 so I figured I would try the previously viewed versions. So I picked up 6 new blu rays! I think I'm going to watch Dark Knight as my first movie in the theater:D



I hope the quality is ok, it says they are guaranteed, but what if I don't watch them for a month. Anyway I'll also have to buy new cases probably from here if I want them to all match:

http://www.sleevetown.com/blu-ray-hd-dvd-case.shtml

So that's another buck. But if they work just as good as new I still saved $10+ on each one :)why not the 20's for rears?

Yes the frame sits inside a frame of 2x4's covered in fedelio. That screen is pretty heavy when its all put together and having it friction fit makes it pretty easy for 2 people to take it out to mess with speakers and what not.

Thanks that helps. I think may go this route, the only negative I see is not being able to move the screen up or down, but it wouldn't be very hard to replace a few 2x4's. And I shouldn't have to move it once I decide on a height placement anyway, so I guess it's not even a concern. And the advantage would be there would be no studs behind the screen. :)

why not the 20's for rears?

I think the 20's would be overkill for my room and function of the rears. 90% of the surround material from my movies are from the surrounds and very little from the rears (maybe I'm wrong and that's just cause I had the atoms:p). Though the dealer even tried to talk me into sticking with the atoms since they just produce ambient noise like water running, etc, but I felt having them all matched to the studio line was best.

Plus the cost and size difference played a factor. My opinion on speakers is spend the most money on the LCR then the sub, then the surrounds, then the rears.

I think the 20's would be overkill for my room and function of the rears. 90% of the surround material from my movies are from the surrounds and very little from the rears (maybe I'm wrong and that's just cause I had the atoms:p). Though the dealer even tried to talk me into sticking with the atoms since they just produce ambient noise like water running, etc, but I felt having them all matched to the studio line was best.

Plus the cost and size difference played a factor. My opinion on speakers is spend the most money on the LCR then the sub, then the surrounds, then the rears.

Since most material is 5.1, you're matrixing the rears anyway, and you'll get nearly as much sound from them as the sides.

Are your sides direct or adp's? If adp's, it's another reason to go 20's for the rears, as the sides will become more ambient, and the rears are really where you hear directional sound from.

Sides are ADP-590s. So now I should get the 20's? Crap:D

Sides are ADP-590s. So now I should get the 20's? Crap:D

For that size room? I would say definitely. You'll really appreciate the rear directional sound a lot more, IMO.

I went from the Sig 1's to the Sig 2's (Sig ADP3's for my sides), and the improvement in rear directional sound (for movies and some good TV shows) was significant.

But you also desparately need to upgrade the pre-pro and amp (I think you said you had a 4808?). That Denon is just not even close to enough to really make that room shine. But that can wait, you don't need to spend all that money right now!

I called my dealer, "I've got a master degree" and "going to the 20's is a waste of money" (just repeating what he said). He said the only difference is the 20's go a tad lower, but that I wouldn't even be able to see that difference because of the material being sent to them. And I mentioned the matrixing and he went into a long story about how when it matrixes there is a time delay and the signal isn't the same or something like that. Long story short he said the 10's are perfect. I guess I'm gonna stick with the 10's.

For that size room? I would say definitely. You'll really appreciate the rear directional sound a lot more, IMO.

I went from the Sig 1's to the Sig 2's (Sig ADP3's for my sides), and the improvement in rear directional sound (for movies and some good TV shows) was significant.

But you also desparately need to upgrade the pre-pro and amp (I think you said you had a 4808?). That Denon is just not even close to enough to really make that room shine. But that can wait, you don't need to spend all that money right now!

Sorry I just saw this. Ok what Im gonna do is take my 10's when they come in next week and try to A/B them with the 40's I still have of the dealers. If I can tell a big difference I'll order the 20's instead.

I've got the 3808 and a MCA50, the 50 powers the LCR and surrounds, the denon the rears. Eventually I will order a more powerful amp for the LCR and move the 50 for the others.

I called my dealer, "I've got a master degree" and "going to the 20's is a waste of money" (just repeating what he said). He said the only difference is the 20's go a tad lower, but that I wouldn't even be able to see that difference because of the material being sent to them. And I mentioned the matrixing and he went into a long story about how when it matrixes there is a time delay and the signal isn't the same or something like that. Long story short he said the 10's are perfect. I guess I'm gonna stick with the 10's.

Until you upgrade... And you should know better than to listen to a dealer. Go listen to them for yourself.

I'm a little surprised a dealer would say that to you. He should always say "let your ears decide - come in and listen". Everyone's ears are different.

Also, it's not just about the frequency range, it's also about being sized right for the room.

Until you upgrade...

:D

Agree I will A/B them.

What is the difference between the 10s and 20s? The woofer size and cabinet size? I didn't see the 10s on Paradigm's site.

Paradigm is super slow on updating their website. The 10's are new. I can't even find specs on the new v5's. The dealer had a huge pdf on them I should try to get a copy of it. Basically a bigger box, with a bigger woofer that goes down a tad lower, although I don't know off hand what the frequency specs on them are since I can't find them. The dealer said many people that have tried the new 10's say it sounds identical to the old 20.

Paradigm is super slow on updating their website. The 10's are new. I can't even find specs on the new v5's. The dealer had a huge pdf on them I should try to get a copy of it. Basically a bigger box, with a bigger woofer that goes down a tad lower, although I don't know off hand what the frequency specs on them are since I can't find them. The dealer said many people that have tried the new 10's say it sounds identical to the old 20.

The 20 seems to have an identical midrange driver to your 100s. So I could see using those to match sound a little closer, but for rears in a 7.1? That I don't know about. Like you (and your dealer) I think the 10s would be enough. Can't hurt to listen at the store though. Besides, we love A/V stores! :p

I've got the 3808 and a MCA50, the 50 powers the LCR and surrounds, the denon the rears. Eventually I will order a more powerful amp for the LCR and move the 50 for the others.

And a better pre-pro...

And a better pre-pro...

When I get to the stage of doing a more powerful amp I'm definitely going to look into some dedicated pre pros instead of the denon. I'm a little afraid that I'm gonna have to spend $5k+ in order to get any kind of a noticeable difference though. Are there any that you recommend? I've heard the D2 is great, but expensive.

Just to throw more confusion into the mix. A very respected acoustician on this forum recommended NOT going directs for the rears if you don't have at least 10 or 15 (I forget exactly how many) behind the last row. I too was contemplating whether to go monos or dipoles for the rears. Ended up with dipoles.

Today the painters showed up and started their prep work - filling nail holes etc. And the doors finally came! All the doors are hung and some have casing already. Tomorrow they are supposed to finish up the trim and the painters are supposed to continue prep work.

View from rec room of basement foyer
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan181.jpg

Nail holes patched in theater!
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan182.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan183.jpg

Bedroom Trim Installed
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan184.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan185.jpg

Bathroom Door Hung
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan186.jpg

Foyer Trim Started
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan187.jpg

A pet door installed so the cats can have their own play area under the stairs (and to keep smelly litter boxes:D)
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan188.jpg

One of the storage rooms - floor painted and washer/dryer installed
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan189.jpg

Workout Room
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan1810.jpg

Bar Shelves Installed
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/jan1811.jpg

Now I'm really getting theater fever:D

Just to throw more confusion into the mix. A very respected acoustician on this forum recommended NOT going directs for the rears if you don't have at least 10 or 15 (I forget exactly how many) behind the last row. I too was contemplating whether to go monos or dipoles for the rears. Ended up with dipoles.

So many choices!!:eek: Thanks for the info.

Well I originally chose directs over dipole when I auditioned them both at the dealer a while back. The room was probably about the size of my theater and I was about 3/4 of the way back, so probably pretty close to my seating position in the theater.

I originally was going to get directs for all 7 channels, but when I heard the dipole surrounds I loved them. But when I heard the dipole rears, all I heard was that sound was "back there somewhere". But when I heard rear directs and bullets were flying I felt like the bullets were going to hit me in the head:D

Well that's the true live and personal test that can't be beat. At this rate Shawn, you are going to beat me to the punch now that your doors are in. Mine is crawling like a snail in the home stretch.

When I get to the stage of doing a more powerful amp I'm definitely going to look into some dedicated pre pros instead of the denon. I'm a little afraid that I'm gonna have to spend $5k+ in order to get any kind of a noticeable difference though. Are there any that you recommend? I've heard the D2 is great, but expensive. D2v2 the best, did you pic up the 20's yet? if you dont you will just keep wondering if you should have:)

Well that's the true live and personal test that can't be beat. At this rate Shawn, you are going to beat me to the punch now that your doors are in. Mine is crawling like a snail in the home stretch.

I doubt it! And atleast you get to enjoy your theater and watch movies already!! My acoustic panels will take me a while too and I'm hoping my flooring company will have theater carpet ready for install when we need it. I'm going to be on them the next few days to be sure they have it in their warehouse.

did you pic up the 20's yet?
:D Not yet:)

D2v2 the best

My friend in another state (or I would be there trying his out:p) said he has the D2 and is replacing it with the D2V and said the ARC software on it is amazing.

Is this the normal D2 or the D2v?:

http://statement.anthemav.com/HTML/Products/D2/D2.html

And what's the difference if the D2 also offers ARC?

Today my other Studio 100 came!!!:D

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/1001.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/1002.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/1003.jpg

I guess I'm gonna have to lay it on it's side:eek: or something in the temp setup until the real deal is ready. But I can say - I LOVE IT!! Talk about an awesome center. I don't know if it was just that my cc-570 wasn't very good or if it's just because it matches the LR better, but man it is great:D

The dealer also loaned me a used B&K 125Wx6 amp to try out for the rears and maybe use it to biamp the surrounds and let the MCA handle the fronts. I dunno, I'm gonna try it out once the 10's come in.

As for the pre pro, I think I'm going to stick with my Denon for now. I'm sure the D2 is awesome, but is it $8,000 more awesome than my Denon? I don't think it will be to my ears...just yet atleast;)

My dealer definitely thinks it's a great processor, but feels it's overkill for my system of 90% HT/10% Music. He said the biggest advantage of going with separates is mostly the amp. And he asked if was unhappy with the Denon and I said no and he said why spend more than all of your speakers just cost then to replace something that you're not even unhappy with.

So I guess I will be content for now!

WOW!!

i just found this build thread and i am just in shock! and that is a BEAUTIFUL home you have. i love the dark wood floors and white walls upstairs. beautiful house, and even though your progress has been very fast, im still drooling for more!

and i dont know if i missed this earlier, but regarding your avatar... is that yours? ;)

nad one last thing, although i may not seem as similar to you seeing as you LIVE in the house....

but has your house ever been photographed by Klipsch :)
http://www.klipsch.com/media/products/literature/RefIV.pdf

WOW!!

i just found this build thread and i am just in shock! and that is a BEAUTIFUL home you have. i love the dark wood floors and white walls upstairs. beautiful house, and even though your progress has been very fast, im still drooling for more!

and i dont know if i missed this earlier, but regarding your avatar... is that yours? ;)


Thanks!! I can't wait for the theater to be done. We copied the house from a house that my wife saw on HGTV. We taped the episodes and met with our builder and showed him the shows and and he recreated it with our own personal touches.




and i dont know if i missed this earlier, but regarding your avatar... is that yours? ;)

:D Yes I'm a car freak. If you thought wives were bad about A/V, they are horrible about expensive cars.:o

Here's she is, it's a 2005 Lamborghini Gallardo

http://209.59.172.225/lambo/11.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/1.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/2.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/3.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/4.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/5.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/6.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/7.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/8.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/9.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/10.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/wash3.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/wash1.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/wash2.jpg


And here's my 2007 Bentley GT Mulliner, but I sold this after about 3 months. Great car, but not fun enough for a toy and too expensive for a daily driver.

http://209.59.172.225/lambo/bentley1.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/bentley2.jpg
http://209.59.172.225/lambo/bentley3.jpg

nad one last thing, although i may not seem as similar to you seeing as you LIVE in the house....

but has your house ever been photographed by Klipsch :)
http://www.klipsch.com/media/products/literature/RefIV.pdf

Nope, not mine :)

I bought the new Studio 10's for my rears to replace my atoms. Now I'm done, no really I am:D

Stock photo of the 10's:
http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadgethd.com/media/2009/01/20090108-paradigmstudio10100.jpg

I dare ya to go listen to Paradigm Signatures. (Driven by an Athem D2 / P5 combo of course!) ;)

Kal

I dare ya to go listen to Paradigm Signatures. ;)

Kal

I don't want to! I know once I hear them I'll get the upgrade itch, so I'm staying away..atleast for a while:D

True... my wife says my Sig setup has to last me 20 years ... ;)

Kal

True... my wife says my Sig setup has to last me 20 years ... ;)

Kal

Man I love your theater - it has a star trek feel to it. Those S8's I'm sure are absolutely amazing.:)

I can't believe this pic:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=699

You could issue membership cards and charge rental fees:D

Man I love your theater - it has a star trek feel to it. Those S8's I'm sure are absolutely amazing.:)

I can't believe this pic:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=699

You could issue membership cards and charge rental fees:D Nah, nobody would be interested. It's mostly SD DVD's.

If you look closely, it's slowly turning blue however... :)

Kal

Today they got almost all of the rest of the trim done, just a few pieces left. And the painters started caulking all the seams and joints.

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb191.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb192.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb193.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb194.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb195.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb196.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb197.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb198.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb199.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb1910.jpg
http://www.uncoverthenet.com/shawn/theater/feb1912.jpg

Tomorrow he's gonna frame out the stud wall for the screen so I can start wrapping the back wall in linacoustic and planning the screen location!:)

If you look closely, it's slowly turning blue however... :)


Mine too..slowly, but those blu ones are expensive!