Updated 6/21/10

EQUIPMENT LIST

Front Projection:

Projector: Sim2 HT300E DLP (720P)
Video Processor: DVDO iScan Duo
Screen: 2.35:1 Dragonfly High Contrast 125" (diagonal)
Anamorphic Lens: Panamorph UH380 with MTH1 Manual Transport and AK6 Attachment Plate
Ceiling Mount: Chief RPA Mount with 12" CMS Extension Column and CMS115 Ceiling Plate

Audio:

Pre Pro: Lexicon RV-5 Receiver
Power Amplifier: Lexicon ZX-7 (300W/Channel @ 8 ohms) for Left, Right, Center, Surrounds and Rears
Main Speakers: Legacy Audio Focus 20/20
Center Speaker: Legacy Audio Silverscreen II
Surround Speakers: Triad InWall Silver/4 Surround
Rear Speakers: Triad InWall Gold/4 Omni SE
Subwoofer: Legacy Audio LFExtreme

Sources:

CD/DVD/DVD-A: Rotel RDV-1092
HD-DVD: Toshiba HD-XA2
Blu Ray: Panasonic DMP-BD80
Cable: Motorola DCT-6200 HDTV CATV (Service Electric)

Power Management:

Electronics Power Conditioning: Panamax M5400-PM & Panamax M5300-PM
Projector Battery Backup: Panamax M1500-UPS-PFP
Power Distribution: Panamax InWall MIW-PowerKit-Pro

Equipment Rack:

Middle Atlantic 43-Space AX-S In-Wall Equipment Rack
Middle Atlantic RSH Custom Rack Shelves

Remote Control/Automation

RTI XP-8 Central Control Processor
RTI T3-V Remote Control (zigbee)
RTI RK3-V InWall Touch Panel
RTI CB-8 Connecting Block
RTI ZM-24 Zigbee Transmitter/Receiver
Leviton Vizia RF+ 1000W Dimmers/Switches (z-wave)


ROOM

Dedicated Home Theater Room:

Room Dimensions: 21' deep; 15' wide (screen wall), 17.5' wide (rear wall)
Ceiling Height: 7' 6" maximum; 6'0" minimum (standing on riser below soffit)
Screen Height: 52" from floor to middle of screen
Seating for 6 = 3 in front row, 3 in rear on a 12.5" riser

Approximate screen-to-seat distances:

Front row: 11'
Back row: 17' 6"

Room color scheme:

Lower Walls: Behr Premium Plus Ultra Flat Enamel - Cayman Bay (UL230-19)
Upper Walls: Behr Premium Plus Ultra Flat Enamel - Mesa Taupe (UL130-16)
Ceiling: Behr Premium Plus Ultra Flat Matte - Delicate Lace (UL130-12)
Screen Wall: Behr Premium Plus Ultra Flat Matte - Black Black
Floor: Behr Premium Plus Porch & Floor Low Lustre - Rich Brown (PPF-52)




A little background is in order. This will be my second major home theater build. The first was a dedicated room in our Palm Springs, CA home. The outcome was fairly successful for our purposes. I have included a link to my website that has pictures of the construction process here. (http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/theaterdesign.htm) My second home theater was the conversion of the 2nd bedroom in our apartment. Being an apartment, nothing permanent could be done, and this room was also used for other purposes. The only construction was for the purpose of mounting of small, motorized 84" diagonal 16:9 projection screen. Although we enjoyed the small bedroom theater immensely, it doesn’t really qualify as a home theater “build.” This brings us up to present day.

My wife and I just purchased a new townhome with a full, unfinished basement, pictured here.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0791.jpg

As you can see, the basement has its challenges with the location of the HVAC, plumbing and support beam. However, thanks to many of the wonderful suggestions of fellow AVSers, I have settled in on a design for the new theater. In designing the theater area, it was important that the basement maintain an “open” feel to it for entertaining. One of the challenges that I still face are the water lines running everywhere. It is important that the equipment rack and projector not be located right below water/sewer lines that may start to leak some day. I have not yet determined where the equipment room will be located. We also would like to add a bar somewhere into the mix. Here is the initial design that I have come up with:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/SpringRidgeCinema2.JPG

I currently already have much of the a/v equipment for the theater. I may do some swapping out of individual components, but for the most part the equipment listed above is what I will be using.

The following issues are still to be determined and any input is greatly appreciated:


Where to put the equipment room – I would ultimately like to have enough room for two racks, in the event that I do a distributed audio/video system throughout the entire home.
Storage location for DVDs and CDs – One thought was to locate all the software in the equipment room.
Bar location


The time frame for this project completion no later than December 2009.

AramB

On the top left side of the picture below, you will note there are three large PVC pipes right where I would like to locate the top plate for framing the wall on this side of the basement. Can anyone provide some suggestions as to how to frame the wall on the this side without having to (a) move the pipes, or (b) placing the wall in front of the pipes (which would substantially reduce the square footage of the room.

http://organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0853.jpg

PVC pipes would be very easy to shift over. You just have to cut and extend then at each end and then just remount the run closer to the concrete wall. Hardly any work at all. It looks like the other pipes are HVAC/gas related. Those would be a bit more difficult to move. Otherwise, stuff them all into a soffet and call it a day. Personally it looks like the HVAC trunk metal support beam will be the hard part to deal with.

The copper and black pipe (gas) is movable as well, but you'll have to pay a plumber. If you were to move them over next to the white PVC, you could possibly make soffits on either side of the room, and dress them like accents in the room.

PVC, AC and it looks like a gas line, move them all over to the far wall on the left. And that HVAC trunk line along with your main support beam?

Maybe not move the HVAC, gas and sewer lines...

What do you plan to use on the ceiling? Drywall or a drop?

Mike

Thanks for the advice. I figured, I would probably end up having to move that large sewage line, but was hoping there would be a way to avoid such a "messy" job.

My plan is to drywall the ceiling and put a soffit on either side, somewhat symmetrically, similar to what Brian did here:

http://drivinghamster.smugmug.com/photos/303741058_BDpmG-M.jpg

Sewer lines don't look like they are in the way. It's almost right next to the wall.

Sewer lines don't look like they are in the way. It's almost right next to the wall.

The sewer line is right against the wall along with the exhaust lines for the furnace and water heater with no room to mount a top plate against the floor joists to attach the studs for the wall on that side of the room.

I started the process of analyzing the optimum throw distance for my projector (approx 16') for an image 45" high (92" screen for 16:9 or 106" screen for 2.35:1). I have decided that if at all possible, I would like to go with a 2.35:1 screen. However, based on my current design layout, that is virtually impossible to accomplish because the HVAC trunk running the length of the basement prevents me from putting the projector where it needs to go without lowering it below the HVAC trunk. So I am now considering re-orienting the theater.

I am looking to fellow AVSers for some alternative solutions or designs. Here is the current layout of the basement:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/CurrentBasementLayout.jpg

The clearance from the floor to the bottom of the ceiling joists is 93". However, the clearance from the floor to the bottom of the HVAC trunk is 84" and the clearance from the floor to the bottom of the support beam is only 81". So, as you can see I am "height challenged" as well.

Here are some photos:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0839.jpg
I am standing at the location of the furnace and water heater.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0842.jpg
Here I am standing in the same spot, but looking slightly to the left.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0854.jpg
Now I am at the opposite side of the basement looking back at the furnace, water heater and stairs.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0853.jpg
Same spot, but looking slightly to the right.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0849.jpg
Standing over by the sump pump.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0844.jpg
Standing by the stairs.

All suggestions and ideas will be greatly appreciated!!!

Can anyone provide some suggestions as to how to frame the wall on the this side without having to (a) move the pipes, or (b) placing the wall in front of the pipes (which would substantially reduce the square footage of the room.

http://organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0853.jpg


Piece of cake. You build the wall just short of the pipes and anchor the top plate to the concrete wall with some stand offs.

When you build the soffit around the pipes it will join up with the abbreviated wall and you will be the only one who knows.

Thanks, BIGmouthinDC. That is a great idea! Should I just use masonry nails to attach the standoffs to the concrete wall?

AramB

Here is an alternate plan that I worked on today. It requires covering up the window on the wall where the screen is located. I will have to build a removable stage that will cover up the sump pump. I also have to determine a location for the equipment racks.

Thoughts anyone?

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement Alternate.jpg

Should I just use masonry nails to attach the standoffs to the concrete wall?


I would use either the power drivers or the concrete anchors that you drill a hole than insert a sleeve that expands when you tighten the bolt.

http://www.concretefasteners.com/images/Thumbnails/sleeve-anchor.gif

IMO a hammer driven masonry nail doesn't have the pull out resistance that you need.

Today has been a productive day. This morning the HVAC guys came and re-routed some of the ductwork that was problematic. However, moving the entire HVAC trunk was simply not a possibility. They also added some vents in the basement so now there is heat down there!

This evening I took the projector and my HD-DVD player down to the basement and decided to see how things would look with the various setups that I have envisioned - mostly to see if poles, beams and other obstructions would be an issue. After not getting satisfactory results with the original two designs that I sketched above, I decided to project an image perpendicular to the support beam and HVAC trunk. Originally, I completely discarded this idea as I thought these would be obstructions that would not permit the projector to be mounted high enough. Well, I gave it a shot, and was pleasantly surprised. No obstructions, and much more width is available (so speakers don't have to be crunched into corners) AND, I actually gain more DEPTH for seating (up to 24' if I want it). I was so pleased with the results, that I decided to take some pictures to post below.

Lights off... 2.35:1 aspect ratio with 106" wide image:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0856.jpg

Here the lights are on and as you can see the HVAC is really not an issue:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0857.jpg

The markings on the wall are for 106" wide 2.35:1 screen and 16:9 screen:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0858.jpg

This weekend I put some blackout curtains in the basement. I realize it is a little premature to be hanging drapes before the construction is complete, but I wanted a little privacy from "nosey" neighbors! It also helps keep the basement a bit warmer.

I am still not 100% convinced that I have come up with the best arrangement/use of the space. I am toying with the idea of having a contest and offering $100 to the best design from a fellow AVSer. Do you think there would be any interest in something like that?

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/Basement-0869.jpg

Here is my latest layout design for the home theater. Suggestions anyone?

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/UpdatedBasementDesign.jpg

I did a Sketchup rendering as well...

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/BasementUpdate.jpg

How many rows of seating? Are you doing risers?

I am doing two rows of seating... one in front of the platform shown on the SketchUp drawing above and another row on the platform itself. I have not decided what type of seating I will get... probably three Berkline theater seats in each row.

Aram

I did a Sketchup rendering as well...

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/BasementUpdate.jpg

Aram,
I have a very similar layout to yours with a lovely beam and pole that cannot be outside of room. Think I have finally decided to shoot pic parallel to beam in my case as give me 24' depth and can mount projector to shoot under beam (same height exactly as you for joists/beam etc) to allow max room width. I like the final layout you show here as makes best use of space for seating and biggest screen to view.
Good luck,
Greg
p.s. I always like using Transformers HD-DVD to 'test' out options too

I originally wanted to shoot the projector parallel to the steel I-beam and HVAC trunk as well. However, due to the size of screen that I decided on, it just wouldn't give me the depth of seating that I needed. Although not perfectly ideal, I think this solution is the best compromise. I may make some minor modifications (if I can figure out how to engineer it), such as moving the wall that is perpendicular to the left side of the screen farther to the left.

Of course, I have not yet started cutting wood, so... I am still open to suggestions!!!

I also like your latest design best aramb,

Like you said above if you could move the wall a little further left that would be good. But also moving the door or entryway a little further left on that wall so it basically lines up with the opening on the other side of the room, it would make the room look more symmetrical. Not sure if the ductwork is an obstruction though.

Could you possibly move the support pole closest to the riser in your latest pic? Maybe move the pole to the left corner of the riser, then shift your HT to the right by removing the equipment room walls to the right of the riser and rightside of the screen wall. Then, you could hide the new support pole location inside of a new equipment room location. Or, if you really like the window there, you could hide the new pole location in a new bar that would have line of sight to the screen. If you put the bar there, maybe you could use a small portion of the room on the left of your latest drawing to build a closet to access an in wall eq rack that faces the HT on the left wall? That is, if you can move the support pole. I'm pretty sure Gonzo moved the same type of pole in his build so it can be done. Here's a link to his thread if you're interested: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=719146

Good luck.

Here are two alternate layouts for the room... the difference being with seating. One option is two rows of theater seating with the back row on a riser. The other option is to build a bar behind the first row and put bar stools for the back row. I also have not yet determined what to do with the space to the right of the riser/bar. This is where my equipment racks will be located. I am currently considering two options here as well. The first option is to build out an area that is just large enough to house the equipment racks and use Middle Atlantic In-Wall AX-S racks that can slide out on tracks for working on the rack and adding equipment, wiring, etc. The other option would be to build a larger area or room that the racks could be house in. This would allow the use of cheaper Middle Atlantic Slim5 equipment racks, but will require the space be carefully configured. All of the walls, windows, and doorways on these two drawings are pretty much what I have determined will work for my space.

Sorry about not posting the pictures directly, but they are in PDF and when I convert to jpeg, they are unreadable.

Option A (http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/TheaterLayout.pdf)

Option B (http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/TheaterLayoutBar.pdf)

Well, as of yesterday, I have finally started to build the new home theater. The first order of business was to move the freon lines that go from the air conditioning unit outside to the inside unit. I temporarily mounted a top plate where my screen wall will go so that I knew how far where I would need to move this line. As luck would have it, the air conditioning line fit perfectly above the existing white PVC pipes.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090301_0886.jpg

Today I worked for about 4 hours and framed out the front wall of the theater upon which a 115" wide 2.35:1 screen will be mounted. This wall is 15 feet wide. Ignore the screen outline in blue tape on the concrete behind the wall. It is not in the correct location (or aspect ratio).

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090301_0888.jpg

I got to try out my new pneumatic framing nailer today, which really made the work go fast. However, I got off to a slow start initially because the compressor that I purchased had 1/4" NPT connections and I discovered that the nailer had a 3/8" connection. It took some time to locate an adapter, but I finally got something that worked at a plumbing supply house.

Here are a couple of other angles. As you can see, the cat is inspecting my work.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090301_0889.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090301_0890.jpg

I did a Sketchup rendering as well...

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/BasementUpdate.jpg
Man, that's a tough one Aramb. Have you figured out the dimensions of your platform yet? Once I know your thoughts on that in terms of width, depth, and distance from screen, I might be able to offer some ideas.

Tom

The platform will be 10' wide, 5'6" deep and 7-1/2" high (for now). The platform is 13'6" away from the screen. The support pole will be at the right corner of the platform. I have decided to build a smaller equipment closet (only 30" deep) and use a Middle Atlantic AX-S-43 space slide-out equipment rack (20" deep). This should provide a larger walkway between the equipment rack closet and the platform and pole. And, as luck would have it, positioning the platform this way centers it perfectly with the center of the screen! Sometimes I get lucky.

Now, I just have to figure out how to conceal the sump pump in the lower left hand corner behind the platform.

FYI if you are going with HT recliners you probably want your riser to be at least 6' deep. You may need a little more depending on the seats that you actually end up with, unless you plan the front row to be at least a foot away from the riser.

Thanks, Oman. That is good to know. I have not yet decided whether I will go with a couch on the riser or Berklines. I have almost three more feet behind the riser, so it should not be a big deal to enlarge it. In fact, it probably makes more sense to run the riser all the way to the back wall. I don't plan to build the riser until near the end of the project so that I know exactly how much room I have available. I do plan to keep the front part of the riser in line with the pole, just for aesthetic reasons.

Hello Aramb,

Nice design of your HT.
I didnt notice any mention of sound control, so i dont know if it is a concern of yours. some thing you may want to consider before framing additional walls is using the Risc-DC04 Clips to attach your walls to your floor joists.
I think this is one of your "Biggest Bangs" for the buck items when it comes to sound isolation.


as a side note.. i wish i had done this.. i framed my walls before i found this forum.. now Im kicking myself and trying to decide if i want "deconstruct" what i already constructed. :rolleyes:

Brad

here is a link to another post that shows a good pictures of the DC04 clip and application.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14470874[/url]

Brad

Thanks, Brad. Is the purpose of these isolation clips just to keep sound from traveling into other parts of the house, or, does it improve the acoustics in the theater itself? If the purpose is only to prevent sound from traveling into the rest of the house, I am not too concerned as it is just my wife and I and we always watch movies together. If, however, it will improve the acoustics in the theater, then I definitely want to add the clips.

Good build. I'm looking forward to seeing more pics. I noticed that you avoided the PVC pipes when putting up the wall. You didn't want to frame around the pipes and build a soffit around the entire HT Room, which could accomodate HVAC, wires and conduit needs.

I decided to put the screen wall in front of the PVC and air conditioning lines so that I could have access to them if I ever need it without tearing up the ceiling. I am still debating between a 115" wide 2.35:1 screen or a 16:9 format screen (also 115" wide). If I were to go with the 16:9 screen, I will need the additional height that is provided by not having to deal with a soffit. I would prefer to go 2.35:1, but am trying to cope with the high cost of an anamorphic lens.

Also by building the wall out it will provide a place for me to store some odds and ends. I already have to build a soffit around the HVAC and support beam and I may continue it around the edges of the theater as well, but I have not made a final decision regarding that yet.

Thanks, Brad. Is the purpose of these isolation clips just to keep sound from traveling into other parts of the house, or, does it improve the acoustics in the theater itself? If the purpose is only to prevent sound from traveling into the rest of the house, I am not too concerned as it is just my wife and I and we always watch movies together. If, however, it will improve the acoustics in the theater, then I definitely want to add the clips.

The main purpose of the clips is to help prevent the sound from being transmitted through the structure by decoupling the theatre walls from the rest of the house... good luck with the build, i have really enjoy watching all the rooms come together on this forum

Brad

Question of the Day - Should I build a stage?

I am planning on a 115" wide x 49" high screen (2.35:1). The wall that it will be mounted on is exactly 15' wide (180" wide). That leaves a space of 32" on either side of the screen for speakers. My speakers are LARGE. They are the Legacy Audio Focus 20/20 towers and they are monsters (55" High x 15" Wide x 13" Deep) and have passive radiators on the rear of the cabinet requiring that they not be placed right against the wall. With the height of these speakers, would it be a mistake to build a stage and place them on the stage (making them even higher)... or should I build a smaller stage that permits the speakers to remain on the floor with a center stage area between them? Or, should I build a "chamber" to contain the cabinets and have them completely out of sight (although they are beautiful cabinets)?

Question of the Day - Should I build a stage?

I am planning on a 115" wide x 49" high screen (2.35:1). The wall that it will be mounted on is exactly 15' wide (180" wide). That leaves a space of 32" on either side of the screen for speakers. My speakers are LARGE. They are the Legacy Audio Focus 20/20 towers and they are monsters (55" High x 15" Wide x 13" Deep) and have passive radiators on the rear of the cabinet requiring that they not be placed right against the wall. With the height of these speakers, would it be a mistake to build a stage and place them on the stage (making them even higher)... or should I build a smaller stage that permits the speakers to remain on the floor with a center stage area between them? Or, should I build a "chamber" to contain the cabinets and have them completely out of sight (although they are beautiful cabinets)?
Judging by your last layout sketch I would say no to the stage due to the opening of the room to the left hand side. Where do you plan to put the center speaker? Above or below the screen?

Where do you plan to put the center speaker? Above or below the screen?

I will be placing the center speaker below the screen.

I will be placing the center speaker below the screen.

Will it fit if you have a stage?

My center speaker is a Legacy Silverscreen II. The speaker is 10-1/2" High, 27-1/2" Wide and 10" Deep, so... I think it will fit. I planned on having the bottom of the screen somewhere between 28-32" above the floor.

I am not sure exactly about screen placement. I know with a 16:9 ratio you want eye level to be 1/3 up from the bottom of the screen, but I do not know what the rule is for the 2.35:1 screen. Either way, I think there will be room to place the speaker even if there is a stage.

Progress Report: Today I had some time to continue working on the framing of the home theater. I got the utility room framed out and the entrance to the theater. Pictures below...

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090308_0891.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090308_0892.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090308_0893.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090308_0894.jpg

Okay, gang... I just ran into a snag and I need some advice.

Due to the low height of the HVAC duct (notice that it is even lower right by the door), I will not be able to properly affix molding to the top of the door. I had planned to run the soffit all the way to the wall. It will look odd if I put molding on the sides and none on the top, and I think it would also look odd if I didn't run the soffit all the way to the wall that the door is hanging on.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090310_0896.jpg

Here is another view:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090310_0897.jpg

As it is, the door will just barely clear the ductwork in this lower area if I mount the drywall right up against the ducting.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090310_0898.jpg

Another question... I had originally planned on making the soffit wide enough to contain both the ducting AND the steel I-beam within a single soffit. Perhaps it would be better to enclosure the ductwork in a soffit and then just box in the I-beam separately. Any thoughts?

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090310_0899.jpg

My Middle Atlantic 43-space AXS rack was delivered by UPS last week just before I left for Mexico. Once I got back (yesterday), I put it together and framed out the space for it. Here are some pictures.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090316_0900.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090316_0901.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090316_0903.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090316_0904.jpg

I got a lot done this weekend on the theater build. I finished framing out the A/V equipment room as well as framing out the rear wall of the theater. This has raised a couple of questions:


What to do about the area around the sump pump (see last picture in this post)?
Rear Surrounds - should I plan on mounting them on the rear wall or in the ceiling?


Here is a shot of the completed equipment room:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090322_0906.jpg

Here is a shot of the rear wall of the theater:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090322_0907.jpg

I mounted the 100A sub-panel in the utility room:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090322_0905.jpg

I am still not sure how I am going to deal with this area around the sump pump. You can see a closeup of this corner here:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090322_0909.jpg

I also started running wire for speakers and AC.

So... it was a fairly productive weekend!!!

I am no expert, but I did talk to one about rear surrounds. I had the same question. He recommended to put them in the wall unless you plan to have seats against the rear wall, then put them in the ceiling.

Think about moving the column to the right (when facing the new screen location) and adding a second column on the left to make seating and columns symetrical. As long as the span on the beam remains the same or shorter you should be fine.

You can solve your door trim and ductwork clearance issues by cutting the door down a couple of inches.

I took the day off from work today to do some work in the theater. I got the last wall framed out, moved some more flex ducts and ran all the speaker cables. Here are some pictures:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090324_0913.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090324_0920.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090324_0919.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090324_0913.jpg

The next step is to start building the soffits around the HVAC and support beam.

I still haven't decided what to do exactly about the area around the sump pump. I am tossing a few ideas around, but have yet to come to a conclusion one way or the other.

I am getting ready to put in the recessed lighting cans and am considering using either the Halo 4" H99ICT or the Halo 6" H7ICT. What are the pros and cons of each? I know that the 4" cans are considerably more expensive than the 6" cans. However, the 4" cans may fit into the limited space between my joists due to all of the flex ductwork that occupies the space between nearly every joist. Also, I have read elsewhere on this forum that you should space the lighting cans based on how high they are from the floor (7' apart if the ceiling is 7' high). Does this apply to both 4" AND 6" cans, or is the formula different for the 4" cans?

This week I installed conduit. Conduit it cheap - so I ran it everywhere, even places where I do not currently need it. I figure after the ceiling is drywalled, I will not want to cut into it just because I didn't have the foresight to run a $3.00 pipe!

Also, I finished up the soffits around the HVAC trunk. Pictures are attached below.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090411_0948.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090411_0950.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090411_0951.jpg

I decided on 6" can lights. I think I am only go to put three up front (to wash the screen) and three to wash the rear wall. I now think that the addition of wall sconces will provide any additional desired lighting. Also, I have decided to extend the rear riser all the way to the back wall.

I am working on running Romex everywhere. It is kind of a pain in the ^% to work with.

Happy Easter, everybody!

Aram

Today I built a soffit to enclose the can lighting that will be installed on the screen wall. Again thanks, Tom (Kern Theater) for your help and advice with this part. As in Tom's theater, I have also made provisions for rope lighting between the soffit and the ceiling. However, due to all of the existing ceiling obstructions, I don't plan on running the soffit all around the perimeter of the room. I will post pictures as soon as there is some light in the basement - Which brings me to the next area of progress. I finished up most of the electrical wiring this weekend as well, but part of that involved removing the existing electrical and wiring it to the new sub-panel that I installed in the basement. This week the sub-panel will be wired to the main panel by a licensed electrician. So at this point, there is no power (or lights) in the basement other than what can be provided by the extension cord from upstairs.

I decided to go with Leviton Vizia+RF lighting controllers since they are Z-wave compatible. My remote (Nevo Q50) is a Z-wave controller, so I am hoping that they will interface nicely.

Finally, I built a stable mounting platform in the ceiling to support the projector and anamorphic lens.

Did I mention that my 125" 2.35:1 screen showed up this week? This screen is huge, however, I really was not expecting it to be delivered to my home by Fedex in a tractor-trailer rig!!!

Have a great week!

Aram

Okay... here are the pictures. It was a gloomy rainy day today, so not too much light, but you'll get the idea.

This shot details the construction of the soffit, using 2x6s. There is 14" between the 2x6s for a total depth of 17".

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090420_0957.jpg

Another angle here:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090420_0964.jpg

Here is a picture of the screen wall with the overhead soffit. I may decided to add two more can lights (for a total of 5) in the soffit. The soffit is 4" from the ceiling joists and I will be adding the rope lighting after the crown molding in installed.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090420_0966.jpg

This is the mount for the projector and anamorphic lens. I made it 18" wide by 24" long to provide flexibility for future projectors with shorter throw ratios. My current projector will mount toward the rear of this platform.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090420_0967.jpg

Here I have started running Romex to the box. I still have two more circuits to finish up this evening and then the electrician will be here tomorrow.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090420_0969.jpg

The soffit looks great! Nice job. It looks a little deeper than mine which I'm guessing worked out nicely since your lights are a little larger.

Have you made any more decisions about riser placement?

Tom

I'm no expert but if you intend on sound proofing you may want to box in around your canned lights. I went the green glue route and unfortunately I just went at mine before browsing the build threads and overlooked this step. :(

Thanks, Tom. Yes, I have decided to make the riser a little larger. It is going to go all the way to the back wall and be a bit wider as well.

Also, thanks XB for the sound isolation tip. I have seen a number a people building boxes around their can lights on this forum. For the most part, I am foregoing the isolation techniques (breaking the rules!). It is just my wife and I and we watch movies together, so I just see a purpose to the extra effort and expense to do sound isolation.

Aram

...Also, thanks XB for the sound isolation tip. I have seen a number a people building boxes around their can lights on this forum. For the most part, I am foregoing the isolation techniques (breaking the rules!). It is just my wife and I and we watch movies together, so I just see a purpose to the extra effort and expense to do sound isolation.

Aram

That makes sense. Mine setup is more of a medial/theater room (just went front projection) however my wife watched TV in the family room above and I spend more time in the theater setup than she does and in my situation I wish I would have thought this through a little more ahead of time.

Looking good though. Keep up the good work!

Aram,

You could apply the top door molding right to the door so you don't have to shorten your door height. There are several ways to do this. The way I picture it would be to attach the top door casing and two short vertical sides ( use a biscuit joint to attach the small vertical casings) that move with the door as it opens and closes. It looks nice and finished without the need to reduce the door height.

Just a Thought.

Aram,
I forgot to say that on the right side of the top door casing and it's vertical side would remain attahed to the frame because the door would not be able to open. The left side wouldn't be affected.
Hope this helps.

I have been traveling a bunch for my work so progress has been slow, but here are some pictures after I completed all of the wiring.

Here is the completed sub panel... perhaps a bit overkill, but I think it was worth the hassle.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090513_0988.jpg

Here I started installing the insulation for the closet around the HVAC equipment.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090513_0989.jpg

Pictures of the wiring...

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090513_0990.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090513_0993.jpg

I spent virtually all of Memorial Day weekend in the ManCave!!!

Here is what I got done...


Completed all of the wiring
Installed the rest of the insulation
Hung all the drywall (46 sheets)
Hung the french doors
Cleaned up the mess!!!

Here are pictures of the progress.

View looking at the screen wall:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090525_1001.jpg

Looking at the A/V Rack and Equipment Room. That is my 125" Diagonal 2.35:1 screen in the long box on the floor.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090525_1003.jpg

Looking at the rear of the theater. I have two rows of seating each with 3 seats. I still need to build the riser platform.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090525_1005.jpg

Thursday. I will do the cornerbead and start to spackle. Hopefully the following weekend I will be able to finish up the sanding.

Wow, looking awesome Aram! I'd say it was a weekend well spent.

Can't wait to see more!

Tom

Thanks, Tom!

Since my last post, I have:


Painted the drywall
Installed the new Triad Side and Rear Surround Speakers
Loaded the equipment rack with all my gear
Hung the screen


I hope to get the projector mounted this evening. I will take some pictures and post them tonight or tomorrow.

Things left to do:


Wire the A/V Rack
Build the riser for the 2nd row of seating
Paint the floor and/or install carpet
Install trim molding (baseboard, chair rail and door trim) and paint
Have a party!

Aram,
Wow, are you a one man construction crew or just working on this 24/7? Quite a lot of progress in a 3 month period! Wish I could be at the same point with my project:(

Looks great and keep up the good work.

Actually, I haven't been working on it as much as I had hoped because I have been traveling a lot lately for work. When I am in town, I usually spend four to five hours every day after work plus 12+ hour days on the weekends. I am motivated to get this finished, as we have guests coming later in July and I don't need to have a construction mess during that time.

Last night I mounted the projector and tried out my new anamorphic lens. Very cool. Even the wife was impressed.

Before drilling holes for the PJ mount, I re-calculated the proper throw distance and realized that I had made a slight mistake in my original calculations. As a result, the ceiling AC outlet is a little farther from the projector than I hoped. I will probably need to run a length of cable channel to conceal the HDMI and power cables (ugh).

Also last night I realized that I did not have long enough interconnects to go from my processor to the amplifiers, so I had to order 7 of them... so, no sound until Monday. :mad:

Tonight I hope to roll on at least one coat of Behr Porch & Floor Paint (thanks to PioManiac for this idea). That should seal the last bit of drywall dust that has not been swept, vacuumed, or wet-mopped. Also, it will be a decent stop-gap measure until I get the riser built and the room carpeted.

I am out of town again all of this weekend, so I do not expect any further progress until next week.

I got half the floor painted last night. Here are the pictures of the progress I have made up to this point.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1016.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1017.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1020.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1022.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1024.jpg
I still have to box in this support pole.
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090613_1025.jpg
I may be able to get away with using a 9" column for the projector vs. the 12" column I am using now. That would provide for slightly more headroom.

That's all for now!

The Theater looks great, like the two-tone colors.

If you want a quick way to wrap the pole look at these. I've used them on several basements and they look great fast! They can be painted or stained and have matched cap and bases. Lowes and HD both carry them. Keep up the good work!

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=4294961544&Ne=4294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=pole-wrap

Thanks for the suggestion on the pole-wrap, MMeister.

I have run into a design flaw in my theater as I prepare to build the riser for the second row of seating. Due to soffit around the support beam, there is not enough headroom to stand on the riser under the soffit. This will result in me having to move the riser substantially forward of the soffit (which puts the front row of seating too close to the screen, or, moving the second row back behind the projector almost against the back wall (which means there may not be enough room for this row of seats to recline). :mad:

You're on a roll now. Keep up the good work.

Last night I swapped out the 12" PJ column with a 9" column which raised the PJ up 3" and increases the headroom. Although you still can't stand on a riser below the projector, it has improved the overall look of the back of the room. The PJ doesn't appear to "intrude" on the room nearly as much.

The rest of the floor is now painted, so tonight I am going to start wiring up the rack. :)

A pilot and keyboard master. I'm sorry I didn't pay more attention to this thread.

Actually Dennis, as you can see from the photo below, the flight deck of an aircraft and the console of an organ are quite similar!

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/organ-airliner cockpit.jpg

Looks like you're ready with six halon bottles.

Now, if Garmin would get their act together with a real keyboard .... :D

Other than a couple of shared interests and a common University, the real scary part is you flew for the successor of the airline I worked for (summer job) ... Air Utah.

And don't forget, Dennis... we both are home theater nuts!!!

However, nights like this make me want to throw in the towel with regards to the home theater. I have spent the past six hours trying to get my Nevo Q50 remote to talk to my Leviton Vizia RF+ dimmers and Scene Controller. Just as I thought I had everything finally set up correctly, I realized that the Scene Controller no longer worked. And not only that, it would not allow me to re-program it. Hours of frustration later, I finally got it all working. Arggghh!

Moral of the story: If you are going to set up a Z-wave lighting system, it is critical that devices be added in a very specific order (at least with the Nevo Q50). My mistake was that I had previously programmed my lighting using the Leviton Remote Programmer and later tried to add the Nevo Remote into the network.

Alright, here are some updated pictures. I still have to build the riser for the second row of seats, carpet and do all of the molding/finish trim work.

Here is the equipment rack:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090620_1034.jpg

I have laced in all of the audio/video cables, but still need to lace in the power cables. I have ordered shorter cables so that there will not be all the spaghetti in the back of the rack. At some point I will probably re-wire the rack and field terminate all of the cables, but not until I get my new processor (Anthem AVM50v2).
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090620_1036.jpg

Incidentally, it may be of interest to note that if you order a custom rack mount for the Emotiva XPA-2, the shelf is too long and interferes with the AX-S Cable Carriers (on a 20" deep rack). Were I to do it all over, I would order the 26" deep rack so that I could utilize the cable carriers.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090620_1045.jpg

I still have to do something about that pole. I am going to take a trip out to Home Depot today to check out the pole wrap. Otherwise, I will just box it in.
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090620_1046.jpg

Rear of the theater:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090620_1047.jpg

I got the riser built over the past few evenings. I used 3/4" plywood screwed on top of 2x6's and filled it with insulation (R-19). The 2x6's are on top of roofing felt. I left a 1-1/2" lip around the edges for the carpet installation. I am thinking about adding rope light under the lip, but am not sure how to fasten it after the carpet is installed. Anyone who has done this, please let me know how you did it.

I did not make the riser any higher due to height restrictions. However, I am thinking that I will had two extra layers of 3/4" plywood directly under the seating to raise the seats up a little higher, while still allowing enough height clearance when walking in the aisle.

I also added a couple of sconce lights on the walls.

Here are a couple of pictures.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090624_1049.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090624_1054.jpg

I'm curious about the rack install since I'm going the same route. I studed out the width like spec'd out in Middle Atlantics instructions but, I'm wondering if I should have studded the width out 1-1/2" wider so that the casing or jamb I think it's called will cover up the 2x4's? Hard to explain and can't find any info. I think I need to spend money now and buy the rack, i'm worried something isn't going to fit.

Tom:

I increased the width of required spacing on the studs by 3/4" on each side so that I could attach 3/4" wide pine pieces to finish it off nicely.

When I get home I will take measurements of the actual stud spacing and let you know what I did.

Aram

Tom:

I increased the width of required spacing on the studs by 3/4" on each side so that I could attach 3/4" wide pine pieces to finish it off nicely.

When I get home I will take measurements of the actual stud spacing and let you know what I did.

Aram


That's what I was afraid of. I framed it to exactly what Middle Atlantic said on their instructions. I will redo the opening width and height a total of 1.5" bigger all around so I can fit finished wood in there.

Thanks!

I installed the door trim and the molding around the rack this week. I started painting it today. What a pain in the &#%. I really do hate painting with a brush (rolling it on is so much easier). I will post some pictures later.

I am ordering an AVM50v next week!!!!!!!!!!! :D

I installed the door trim and the molding around the rack this week. I started painting it today. What a pain in the &#%. I really do hate painting with a brush (rolling it on is so much easier). I will post some pictures later.

I am ordering an AVM50v next week!!!!!!!!!!! :D

I'm bumping this to the top as we want an update!!

:D

Thanks, Justin. I will post some new pictures and an update this weekend! :D

Thanks, Justin. I will post some new pictures and an update this weekend! :D

HA! Just keeping you on track!

Okay...below are some updated pics. I got the new Anthem AVM50v installed a couple weeks ago. It replaced the Rotel RSP-1098, RT-1080 and RVE-1060, so I was able to free up a lot of space in the rack. Of course, it required me re-wiring the entire rack, so I have included pictures of the rack as well. I tried to make the rack wiring as neat as possible, but I just can't seem to get it to look like some of those really nice racks I have seen on this forum. I think I will need to build custom interconnects if I am to be successful at making it look more professional.

I still have a few pieces of trim to finish up, carpeting, and I have yet to decided whether I should stain the french doors or paint them white (like all the other doors in the basement).

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1157.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1161.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1162.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1163.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1164.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1166.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1167.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1174.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090912_1175.jpg

I think the cabling on the rack looks good. Of course how can a MA rack ever really look bad!! Do you ever find the white trim distracting?

Nice to see the room done. When are you moving again so you can start theater #3!! HA!

No plans for theater #3, however the next project is figuring out how to distribute the a/v from the home theater throughout the house. I am not sure what the best way is to go about running Cat6 and speaker cable through the walls, let alone the best solution for HD video distribution, so I will once again begin scouring the forums.

I am not sure what the best way is to go about running Cat6 and speaker cable through the walls, let alone the best solution for HD video distribution, so I will once again begin scouring the forums.

My advice....hire a professional to do it. You come home and BAM!!! it's done.

My advice....hire a professional to do it. You come home and BAM!!! it's done.

That takes all the fun out of it... I enjoy working on the project and do not want to pay someone to take away the satisfaction I will get from doing it myself. I like learning new skills, as well. :p

That takes all the fun out of it... I enjoy working on the project and do not want to pay someone to take away the satisfaction I will get from doing it myself. I like learning new skills, as well. :p


That is true, and I'm all for learning a new trick or trade, but when it comes to fishing wires, especially in an outside insulated wall, I leave it to the professionals. I figured they are not out trying to do my job, so why should I try to do theirs.

No plans for theater #3, however the next project is figuring out how to distribute the a/v from the home theater throughout the house. I am not sure what the best way is to go about running Cat6 and speaker cable through the walls, let alone the best solution for HD video distribution, so I will once again begin scouring the forums.


Have you seen this?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1178900

This is going to be a great option for a reasonable cost.

It's a great option, but add a few of the decoders, a managed switch (price??)and the encoders and you can easily added up to big $$. It looks like you need a decoder and an encoder, only $250 and $299 for each piece of equipment that you have. Unless I'm reading the article wrong! Still and option though if you have no other

Initially it would add up as is. It's pretty new though and maybe if it takes off it may become more affordable product. A next gen product may also offer 1 encoder for multiple devices and only needing decoders at each display.

Once your set up with your displays you would only need encoders when adding additional equipment, as it stands now anyways. Matrix swithching for HDMI can get very expensive and in it's current state is very limited, with this method it is virtually limitless.

Have you seen this?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1178900

This is going to be a great option for a reasonable cost.

If this works, it would be a pretty slick solution.

For less than $600 (the cost of the encoder and decoder) I can purchase an HDMI cable, plus an extender if needed, and hire someone to fish it through the wall. and not have to go through the encoding/decoding process, which may or may not introduce some sort of interference in signal.

The real value in this solution is if it allows HDMI switching and matrixing so that you can watch a source in multiple places at once, or, matrix so that you can watch SAT in one room, DVD in another etc. Currently, HDMI Matrix Switchers are several thousand bucks (for an 8x8 HDMI switcher).

Exactly, I looked at a of couple true matrix HDMI switches and quickly turned away.

Whiskey what you say is true, and it is essentially what I am doing with my cable box for the master bedroom, living room, rec room but with component. I actually use the HDMI out for the living room. The problem would lie in using the various devices at various locations. No easy way to get everything everywhere without getting other devices to split HDMI out and then you have run multiple HDMI wires with a receiver at the other end or a display with multiple hdmi's in. That could introduce HDCP issues as well.

I agree it could be pricey but as aramb states it could be very slick, especially if they come up with a multi device(something along the lines of 4-8) as an encoder.

Of course I could just leave well enough alone and continue to maintain/upgrade the four separate a/v systems that I currently have in the house... but then... where would the fun in that be? :rolleyes:

I would like to build custom audio and video interconnects since the off-the-shelf solutions are never the correct length. What type of cable is recommended for the following applications (RG6, RG59, etc.):

--Analog Audio
--Analog Video
--Digital Audio

I wish to use compression-type RCA connectors on these cables. What is a good quality compression fitting that will work?

Thanks,

AramB

I would use RG6 or RG6 Quad shielded in case you have to get close to any power lines somewhere.

This is very good tool, though you can use the part number and maybe find it for less elsewhere online.
http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=223

I've used these F-Conn connectors for 40' home made component cables as well as home made subwoofer cables for some friends and they have always been perfect.

http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=169

I was able to buy a pack of 25 for something like 15 bucks but you have to look around.

What about mini-coax cable? Is anyone using this for audio and video interconnects? What are the pros and cons?

Part of my seating riser is over the sump pump. I have made the portion of the riser that covers the pump removable for inspection, cleaning, service, etc. However, I just noticed that condensation is building up on the underside of the platform which will eventually start to build mold and rot the wood (it already started curling the wood, which is how I realized there was a problem). Any suggestions on how to seal the sump pump openings of prevent the condensation would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a picture of the pump with the section of the riser removed:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20091218_0055.jpg

Here it is again with the riser section in place covering the sump pump:
http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20091218_0056.jpg

aramb, Talk to your plumber. You can get a sealed sump cover for it. I saw one at a house that I looked at recently. Its hard plumbed in and then sealed off so nothing gets out or in.

aramb, Talk to your plumber. You can get a sealed sump cover for it. I saw one at a house that I looked at recently. Its hard plumbed in and then sealed off so nothing gets out or in.

Good idea. I will call tomorrow.

I am getting ready to have the carpet installed in the basement. For those of you that used rope lighting under the step/lip of your riser, did you install this before or after the carpet is installed. My inclination is that it will be a cleaner carpet installation if they don't have to work around the rope lighting. I just want to make sure this is the right way to do this. My second question is what do you use to attach the rope lighting to the underside of the riser lip?

Thanks,

Aram

You are laying carpet? (with a tear in my eye): I never thought you would get to that stage.

They make clips for the rope lighting, which you may want to install before the carpet...But hey what do I know?

Back to struggling with HTML.

Yes... I hope to have everything ready for the carpet installation within the next 30 days. I still have to raise the height of the riser a few more inches and then figure out how to install the rope lighting. I also want to touch up a few paint issues on the ceiling before the carpet is laid.

Got a pic of what will be going down? Hopefully something really funky and cool!

We are still debating... the wife wants a lighter color that matches the carpeting throughout the rest of the house. I am thinking about a contrasting darker color. We need to get some samples and I will post pictures of them once we narrow it down a bit.
I can tell you that it will be a solid color (no cool film wheels, etc...) ;)

We are still debating... the wife wants a lighter color that matches the carpeting throughout the rest of the house. I am thinking about a contrasting darker color. We need to get some samples and I will post pictures of them once we narrow it down a bit.
I can tell you that it will be a solid color (no cool film wheels, etc...) ;)

What...no pattern. I put the same carpeting in mine as the family room in the basement (for the same continuity reasons). I can tell you one thing, no way I would do that again. If we weren't selling the house, I would rip it out and put in something completely different with a pattern to it. just my 2cents

What...no pattern. I put the same carpeting in mine as the family room in the basement (for the same continuity reasons). I can tell you one thing, no way I would do that again. If we weren't selling the house, I would rip it out and put in something completely different with a pattern to it. just my 2cents

What's your thought on this, Justin? After all, it will not be seen when the lights are off. What kind of pattern do you think would work with my color scheme?

Aram

It's nto a matter of the lights off viewing, it's the appeal and colors when the lights are on that matter.

For reasons yet unknown, I spent part of yesterday looking around at carpet for your theater. Hey....it was a slow work day with the blizzard here! But give me a little guidance. I made the assumption you were looking at something blue? And are you just doing the riser or the whole theater? What is your taste pallete? Contemporary, classic, obscure, funky? I saved some samples yesterday that appealed to me, but maybe not to you and your wife. Worst case scenario, if she wants a solid, maybe just go with a cut loop with some pattern, but still in a solid. Might be the best of both worlds! I'll get to work on the samples.

Life is all about choices: Here you go..Batch #1

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet1.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet2.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet3.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet7.jpg
and link to the other colors:
http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolors.asp?stylename=Broadcast&displayname=

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet9.jpg
Link to other colors:
http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolors.asp?stylename=Radio Wave&displayname=

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet5.jpg
Link to other colors:
http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolors.asp?stylename=Cordova&displayname=

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet4.jpg
Link: http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolors.asp?stylename=Tattersall&displayname=

And personally one of my favorites:
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa71/utopia1273/carpet11.jpg
Link: http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolors.asp?stylename=Gramercy&displayname=

Okay, I see where you are going with the carpet ideas. I will show this to my wife and see what she thinks. Personally I like the 2nd from the top and the 2nd from the bottom, but I am not sure she would go for that one. Blue is definitely out. We already have blue on the walls. I think a brown or darker pattern may work.

Last night I start demo'ing the riser platform. I am going to start re-building it tonight to make the rear row higher. While I have it apart I am going to run conduit through it so that I can have a plug-in port at the front of the platform with HDMI, Compononent and Audio inputs. I am also going to put a couple of A/C outlets in the platform. I'll post some pictures later.

Aram

Rule #1: Do not show it to the wife. Just surprise her!. just kidding.

The second from the top I can see in there. The second from the bottom, my personal feeling, is just a little busy for that large of space. It reminds me of tile. The last one, which was my choice, I think it just very elegant and with the large pattern fits the space better. But the second from the top, is awesome too, and would probably be the one I would go with. The real problem with patterned carpet say second from the top, to me at least, is that if the room is not square, you may get a full square at the back of the room and maybe a have a square at the front. The pattern runs into the wall and it's not symetrical (does that make sense?)

But that's just me with my OCD and my endless quest for perfection.

BTW. How much higher you making the platform? Would it be simpler to add plywood or osb on top of what you have already done?

You know something, on second thought, I would not show her the pics. If it was me, I would go down the carpet store and pick up several samples and then show those to her. It will give her a visual reference.

BTW. How much higher you making the platform? Would it be simpler to add plywood or osb on top of what you have already done?

I am raising the platform by 5-1/2" (one normal-size step up).

I am raising the platform by 5-1/2" (one normal-size step up).

Why not just build another platform and slide it under the current one. No need to take apart the current one then. Just a suggestion to maybe help eliminate some work.

I started work on the platform tonight. I am raising up the second row of seating. In order to incorporate the steps I needed to take some of the existing platform apart and change things around. I just noticed (after looking at the photo) that I forgot to leave a "lip" on the rear lower step, so I will need to take it apart tomorrow and fix it. :mad:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100127_0239.jpg

I am going to install an A/C outlet in the front of the riser's second level. I would normally use a Rotozip to cut a hole in drywall for the A/C box, but the Rotozip bits are not long enough to cut through a 2x6. What is the technique for doing this?

Drill a starter hole first, and then carefully use a sawzall, jigsaw, or a small hand saw. If I remember correctly I used a sawzall. Just be patient because if you rush it your cut will be all over the place.

Drill a starter hole first, and then carefully use a sawzall, jigsaw, or a small hand saw. If I remember correctly I used a sawzall. Just be patient because if you rush it your cut will be all over the place.

Oh goodie... I get to go to Home Depot and buy a new power tool tonight! My first Sawzall!!!

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try tonight.

Oh goodie... I get to go to Home Depot and buy a new power tool tonight! My first Sawzall!!!

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try tonight.

What....you don't own a sawzall? You might have a little better control over a jigsaw, which is what I would recommend.

Get both...nothing like a Sawzall for fixing mistakes and a jigsaw for finer work.

Okay... I went and picked up a DeWalt DW331K jigsaw. It was on sale at Home Depot. I had to get some longer blades to make it through the 2x6, but it worked out well. I put in three boxes in the front ledge of the platform - 2 are A/C and one will be for the auxiliary a/v inputs. I also fixed the problem I had with the overhang lip to wrap the carpet around the rear step.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100128_0243.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100128_0247.jpg

I finished up the riser today. When I put it together, I was having a problem with "squeaking" where the 2x6 boards were rubbing against the back wall when you would walk. I left a slight gap and that alleviated the problem. Here are some pictures.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0248.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0251.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0252.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0253.jpg

More pictures of the completed riser with the seating in place.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0255.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0261.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0263.jpg

While I had the camera out, I decided to try taking a few screen shots.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0264.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100130_0273.jpg

Now I need to select the carpet, get it installed and then I'll worry about acoustic treatment.

Did you put insulation in that riser? It will prevent unwanted resonation.

Did you put insulation in that riser? It will prevent unwanted resonation.

Yes... I filled it with R-19. I forgot to take a photo with the insulation in before I closed it up.

You know something, on second thought, I would not show her the pics. If it was me, I would go down the carpet store and pick up several samples and then show those to her. It will give her a visual reference.

Yeah... she just came home from work and saw the completed riser and announced that she wants the carpet to be a "solid chocolate brown" that is similar to the color that I painted the concrete floor.

I guess I have some work to do!!!

Yeah... she just came home from work and saw the completed riser and announced that she wants the carpet to be a "solid chocolate brown" that is similar to the color that I painted the concrete floor.

I guess I have some work to do!!!

No work to do, you just lost the battle my friend.

Is it awkward to sit down in a chair on the top riser when standing on the lower one?

Is it awkward to sit down in a chair on the top riser when standing on the lower one?

No... there is enough of a ledge and, in fact, I pushed the top row of seats back a bit after I took the pictures.

No... there is enough of a ledge and, in fact, I pushed the top row of seats back a bit after I took the pictures.

Makes sense to me.

Hey, did you put something between the two riser to keep the wood from rubbing together and squeaking....roof felt? Construction adhesive?

I am going to build a riser very similar to what you are building here. Any advice for me. My ceiling is really low so the front of the riser will be about 6" high and then go up another 6-8 inches and that is what my seats will sit on. Is the 6" ok as a step or should I build a step to incorporate and easier transition?

Why do you have a step at the back of your riser?

I also will be covering my riser in a chocolate brown carpet:)

Justin - I glued and screwed the upper 2x6's to through the 3/4" plywood of the lower level into the 2x6's in the lower section. It is all very solid. The only problem was that it was "squeaking" where it rubbed against the back wall. I put in some 1/16" spacers between the platform and the drywall on the back wall and that took care of the problem.

Adam - If you place 2x6's on their side and put one or two sheets of 3/4" ply on top of them, it will be the height of a "normal" step. Just make sure you leave a 1-1/2" lip with the plywood so that the carpet can be attached properly. I put steps in the back of the riser because there is space to walk back there and I didn't want someone falling off the platform.

Aram

A fellow HT300e owner! Build looks very nice. What make screen are you using?

It is a Dragonfly 125" 2.35:1 High Contrast Grey Screen with a .80 gain. I am going to be changing it to a 1.2 or 1.3 gain Matte White screen.

Once again, I decided to make another significant change to my riser. After having the carpet installer come out to give me an estimate, I decided that the riser would look better if it had oak trim to complement the other oak woodwork in the house. I used red oak stair tread from Home Depot and stained it. I will be adding a few coats of polyeurothane to make it more durable. Here are some pictures.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100320_0318.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100320_0319.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100320_0322.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100320_0324.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100320_0326.jpg

I got three coats of polyeurothane on this week and am now ready for carpet. I'm on my way to sign the contract for it now!

Here's how it looks with the Satin finish on the oak. And no... the post is not light blue... it is tan. The camera flash created an odd hue.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100325_0331.jpg

Looks good. Really a shame you don't have some carpet though. It's not like the installation for it would be $700 or anything! I think Lowe's offers $97 carpet installation. you may to check that out. I heard they send their guys to some carpet college, so hopefully you won't get one fresh out school. Maybe a nice patterned carpet like Big's would look totally awesome!!!

Otherwise it's looks good. Who's idea was it to put wood on the edge anyway?

Looks good. Really a shame you don't have some carpet though. It's not like the installation for it would be $700 or anything! I think Lowe's offers $97 carpet installation. you may to check that out. I heard they send their guys to some carpet college, so hopefully you won't get one fresh out school. Maybe a nice patterned carpet like Big's would look totally awesome!!!

Otherwise it's looks good. Who's idea was it to put wood on the edge anyway?

For those of you out there that haven't figured this out, Mr. Goodcat is a comedian! :D He already knows the answers to all these questions since I discussed it with him via telephone!!!

Yes... Lowes $97 installation actually came out to about $700 for "custom labor" required to wrap the platform with carpet. So, I decided to copy an idea that Brian did with his platform in the Fog Valley Cinema. Putting the oak stair tread around the edge of the platform eliminated the need for wrapping around the edges with carpet and eliminate $500 in labor charges. Bottom line is that I am happier with the look of the wood.

Carpet is ordered and will be installed in about two weeks.

I don't know about comedian, but I was definately laughing when I typed it.

It does look damn good though, much better than if you have had it wrapped in carpet only, IMO.

Congrats. you are now officially one step closer to the end.

I knew there was a catch to that $97 install job. But I agree, it looks much better this way anyway. Nice work.

Here are the photos with the carpet installed:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0378sm.jpg

I also made some changes in the equipment rack and did some re-wiring.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0360sm.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0394sm.jpg

Here are the photos with the carpet installed:

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0378sm.jpg

I also made some changes in the equipment rack and did some re-wiring.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0360sm.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100514_0394sm.jpg

Wow, those pics are awesome. Congrats on finally getting the room done!!
I see some Lexicon stuff in there...looks really good..That amp is huge. Is that the ZX7 model. Are you a dealer for lexicon? What's next on the horizon for updates?
Congrats again!

Thanks, Mr. Goodcat. Yes... I just became a Lexicon dealer, so I replaced the Emotiva XPA2 and the Rotel RMB1075 with the mammoth ZX7. 300 watts per channel into 7 channels. This beast weighs in at over 150 pounds and requires two dedicated 20A circuits!

This weekend I completed the initial installation of an RTI control system. It consists of an XP-8 Central Control Processor located in the rack, an RK3V keypad mounted in the wall along side the rack, and a T3V remote control. This system replaces the Nevo Q50 remote that I was using previously. I am letting my wife use the Nevo up in the media room upstairs.

In addition to the home theater, the RTI system is being integrated to control lighting, the security system, distributed audio and HVAC.
Here are some pictures I took this evening.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100620_0703.jpg

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100620_0708.jpg

Months....months with no update....so how about one..
Something must be new.

sorry excuse to revive an old thread.

My rack was just featured in CE Pro as one of the 10 Best Racks for 2010. Here is the link:
http://www.cepro.com/slideshow/image/7371/

Huge congrats.

On to a print edition next

I got three coats of polyeurothane on this week and am now ready for carpet. I'm on my way to sign the contract for it now!

Here's how it looks with the Satin finish on the oak. And no... the post is not light blue... it is tan. The camera flash created an odd hue.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20100325_0331.jpg
Theater looks great!

How thick was your trim on your riser?

I assume you want it to be thin enough to be pretty flush and not feel the sharp edge. I plan on stealing your idea for my riser and stage so I wanted to make sure I get it right.

Brian: This is basically like stair tread. The front bullnose portion is 1" thick. The rear section that meets up against the carpeting is 3/4" thick. With a thick pad underneath and a fairly thick carpet (92 oz), it works out real nice.

Aram

Thanks for the info!

I know this is an old post, hopefully you or someone else sees my post and has a reply. Your theater looks great! Congrats on such nice work. You have many of the same obstacles I have in my basement. I have a request. I want to put a set of doors like you (French doors) going into my entertainment room. However like you they would be located under a soffit. The dimension to the lowest item (an I-Beam) in the soffit is 80½". A standard door would be 80". With my 5/8" drywall I obviously would be below the 80", and I wouldn't have a lintel above the door, so I was concerned about how it would look. So my request is this. First did you have to cut down your doors to fit? It looks as if the top may have been cut down as it is shorter to the glass than the bottom. Second what did you do for trim at the top and then the sides? Would you be so kind as to snap some pictures of this from both sides and give me your input? It would be greatly appreciated, I almost gave up on the idea of building that wall and having doors until I found your post. Thank you!

I know this is an old post, hopefully you or someone else sees my post and has a reply. Your theater looks great! Congrats on such nice work. You have many of the same obstacles I have in my basement. I have a request. I want to put a set of doors like you (French doors) going into my entertainment room. However like you they would be located under a soffit. The dimension to the lowest item (an I-Beam) in the soffit is 80½". A standard door would be 80". With my 5/8" drywall I obviously would be below the 80", and I wouldn't have a lintel above the door, so I was concerned about how it would look. So my request is this. First did you have to cut down your doors to fit? It looks as if the top may have been cut down as it is shorter to the glass than the bottom. Second what did you do for trim at the top and then the sides? Would you be so kind as to snap some pictures of this from both sides and give me your input? It would be greatly appreciated, I almost gave up on the idea of building that wall and having doors until I found your post. Thank you!

You always cut off the bottom of a door, never the top. The top is always shorter than the bottom from the factory due to this fact.

Glad you liked my theater, Dead Man Walking! I did not have to cut the door down. It is an 80" high door. The reason there the glass doesn't go as low on the bottom is so that your foot doesn't kick through the glass. I got the door from Home Depot. As you can see from the pictures below, the door goes right up to the ceiling. I had to cut the molding around the soffit to accomodate it. I hope these pictures help.

http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090324_0918.jpg


http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090411_0948.jpg


http://www.organ-concerts.com/aram/images/AHB_20090525_1006.jpg

The ghost has returned!

BOO

Very very nice build. The only thing i have in common with your theater is that i have a Sim projector also:)