Well that makes me feel better about about. Thanks guys!

found this thread by chance

vanns.com has the apc s15 ups / power conditioner for 299 shipped.

Killer deal and one I might jump on, but truth be told, I am completely satisfied with my H15. Not to mention I'd have no clue where I would place that behemoth! ;)

The $299 deal for the S15 UPS is still going on at Vanns but reading a few reviews made me nervous. Some people had DOAs and some had units made in 2005 (actually several). The batteries did not work. Yikes. This would be a perfect unit for my projector, receiver and BD player.

2005?! Well of course the batteries would be expired! But hell, just tell APC and they'll send NEW batteries under the warranty. But that is something to think about that in a couple of years, the batteries may need replcing and that could be costly. But the electronics are very viable regardless. I have had my H15 for 2-3 years now and see no reason to replace it. It does all I want and more. :)

I installed my two S-15s in 2005 and the batteries are still doing fine.

Really? Outstanding man. What is the average life span?

Really? Outstanding man. What is the average life span?Dunno but I am surprised they are working. The one in CT has switched to battery power a few times but the one in NYC has not been stressed afaik. Still, when I pull the plug on either one, the system plays on and the estimated run-time is pretty much what it was.

New batteries are inevitable, though, and they run between $100 and $150.

I talked to the Vann's agent over the phone asking him why the silver one was $299 and the black was $799 and he said they bought a whole bunch of back inventory of unsold silvers. But otherwise the black and silver are the same. I ended up ordering one last night. I got it for $280 with free shipping. They had a $20 off special yesterday. I will post here once I get it. Hopefully the battery works properly! Now my problem is my component shelves. They shelves are made of glass and I don't think it can hold this unit. I think this unit is 60lbs right. Currently, it is holding my 44 lb NAD T763, 22 lb Sony S5000ES, 20 lb BreatheAudio whole home amp, and a few small items. One component per shelf though.

Thinking about getting an H15. A couple questions:

1. I have a few items (record player, ipod dock) I have plugged into a surge protector which I keep switched off unless I'm actually using these devices, which is not very often. If I plug these into the power conditioner, will they then always be receiving/wasting power, even if it's a small amount? Is there a way to turn specific outlets on and off?

2. Currently have the rest of my HT equipment (lcd tv, blu-ray, NAD receiver, wii, cd changer) plugged into another surge protector which is always on and all connected devices are in standby mode. This includes the subwoofer, and I've read about the H15 causing some sub amps to blow. Do people generally plug their subs into a separate surge protector?

Thinking about getting an H15. A couple questions:

1. I have a few items (record player, ipod dock) I have plugged into a surge protector which I keep switched off unless I'm actually using these devices, which is not very often. If I plug these into the power conditioner, will they then always be receiving/wasting power, even if it's a small amount? Is there a way to turn specific outlets on and off? Only if they do not have a 12v trigger.2. Currently have the rest of my HT equipment (lcd tv, blu-ray, NAD receiver, wii, cd changer) plugged into another surge protector which is always on and all connected devices are in standby mode. This includes the subwoofer, and I've read about the H15 causing some sub amps to blow. Do people generally plug their subs into a separate surge protector?I don't. My old sub was plugged into a surge/power strip and took a hit and blew out my AVR & sub. The H15 with my DUI sub, never an issue (knock on wood, don't want to jinx anything;)) and I have EVERYTHING plugged into the H15 including 2 sub amps, AVR, DLP, HD DVD, BDP, DVD recorder & Wii. On 24/7 (unless we go out of town) and I wouldn't have it any other way, personally.

If you are getting it from Vanns, I would recommend the S15 battery backup for only $50 more. At least if you have anything that has fans to cool things like a DLP lamp. But again, out of all the power outages and brown outs we have had over the past 3+ years or so, battery backup wouldn't have made any difference.

An alternative is to plug your power strip into the H15 for those 2 things you don't use often and still switch on/off manually while still receiving all the benefits the H15 offers.:cool:

What do you guys recommend setting the avr range to??? I have a pioneer sc-35.

thanks

Mine is set to 'narrow'. The AVR range IS NOT for your AVR Pioneer, is means Automatic Voltage Regulation and is for the entire power output.;)

Mine is set to 'narrow'. The AVR range IS NOT for your AVR Pioneer, is means Automatic Voltage Regulation and is for the entire power output.;)

that makes more sense now... thanks

So I was thinking about buying a monster, then I read bad reviews and I was led to APC. However I only would consider a power conditioner if people noticed a difference in cleaner power distribution and sound. Any experiences of this with any conditioner?

Absolutely noticeable. At least with the H15. I have no experience with any other. And while I say it is absolutely noticeable, it does so subtley. Really all depends on how 'in tune' YOU are with your system BEFORE the power conditioner is added.

After experiencing what my H15 does in my HT the past 3+ years, I won't readily do without again.

Thanks splicer, I guess what I'm really wondering is if the H15 "cleans" the signal as well as other power conditioners because this really is the only feature I care for. I don't have tons of electronics and I feel basic surge protectors will protect electronics just the same.

The H15 ALSO has AVR - automatic voltage regulation, as well as power conditioning AND surge protectection. Make no mistake about it, a grocery store bought power strip that claims surge protection IS NOT in the same class as the H15.

As to "cleaning the signal" well, that is a completely different issue. Crap in equates to crap out, plain and simple. No power conditioner changes signal quality.

It still seems like the these devices are worthless, unless I had a bunch of equipment. The only time my avr/tv/speakers would need anything more than the surge protector I bought from office depot (not grocery store) is if I had a lightning strike and these devices don't even stop that. However, 200$ is nothing and I'd rather have one of these than not. Thanks for the input splicer.

When in doubt go with the Monster HTS 3600 MKII (http://powerconditionerreviews.com/monster-hts-3600-mkii-10-outlet-power-center-review/) it is a bit expensive but, it truly saved my $2200 desktop from a malfunctioning main power supply that kept tripping and resetting itself. My TV and all my surround sound along with lights and fans and everything burnt out. Luckily for me I had renter insurance anyways to take care of that, but since I bought my computer afterwards it wasn't covered, because I never added it to the protection plan.

Needless to say I have everything hooked up to this bad boy and i stand by it 100%. You can read about it hear at http://powerconditionerreviews.com

I'm considering upgrading my AVR soon....to one that no longer offers AC outlets (that I use for my sub).

I have the H15 power conditioner and I've read the warnings on using the subwoofer outlet as it may cause fuses to blow. Is the purpose of this outlet to allow for automatic power switching, though or is it just for protection like the other outlets?

With my future AVR not offering the switched outlets, what other methods are available to automatically turn on the sub?

My sub is an old Klipsch SW8 II (http://www.klipsch.com/sw-8-ii).

First, you should NEVER use an AVR outlet to provide electricity for a sub. This removes valuable energy needed for the AVR amps.

The H15 'SUBWOOFER' outlet is nothing more than any other of the outlets (except for power on/off switching outlets) and is printed there as a suggestion only. Plug whatever you want in that outlet. That said, I have a 500watt sub plugged into the H15 and haven't experienced and 'blown fuses' in over 4 years of use.

As to how you switch the sub on/off, buy one that has AUTO ON. Another option is to replace the Klipsch amp with an AUTO ON amp. Finally (and the way I would go if I were you) just leave the sub plugged in. If it isn't being used, the sub amp uses next to nothing in power and you'd never see a difference in your electric bill & it won't hurt a thing.;)

First, you should NEVER use an AVR outlet to provide electricity for a sub. This removes valuable energy needed for the AVR amps.
Nonsense. Sometimes it makes sense. Sometimes it doesn't. In this case, the subwoofer in question is only rated 65W continuous, hardly a problem.

Nonsense. Sometimes it makes sense. Sometimes it doesn't. In this case, the subwoofer in question is only rated 65W continuous, hardly a problem.

:rolleyes:Ask anyone. That 65watts can certainly peak much, much higher...but you just keep believing what you want.

Thanks for the info, guys.

What about this "trigger" function I'm reading about? The new AVR supports it. If I understand it correctly, it involves a small phono cable that is connected between the AVR and the power conditioner that will "trigger" the power for whatever is connected to these specific outlets. If that is the case, problem solved!

As for never using the AC outlets on an AVR for a sub, wow, I have never heard that. It was always implied to me at the time that they were made available for just such purposes. I've never had a problem on the last three AVRs I've used, but I do like the idea of not robbing my AMP of power (even if it is only 65W). :)

Those outlets were (at the time) meant for phonograph, cassette deck, DVD player etc...Never meant for wild, pulsating swings of power, much like a sub will cause when using for a movie.

And yes, the trigger works like that for the switched outlets. You plug a (1/8" I think?) cable from the pre-amp to the H15 and then plug in the sub to one of those switched outlets on the H15. When you turn the power to the AVR on, then the switch allows power to the sub. But of course this requires a pre-amp (AVR) with the switch jacks. Those are usually the higher tier of amps (AVR) and those (usually) have outlets anyway. Of course, the way things are going to the bare minimum lately, I wouldn't be surprised to see an AVR offer trigger output(s) and no outlets. What AVR are you looking at getting?

Yep. got my turntable hooked up to the second AC outlet right now. :)

I first had my eye on the Yamaha RX-A3010 but I think the RX-A2010 will be fine for my needs. They both have the trigger jacks.

Those outlets were (at the time) meant for phonograph, cassette deck, DVD player etc...Never meant for wild, pulsating swings of power, much like a sub will cause when using for a movie.

And yes, the trigger works like that for the switched outlets. You plug a (1/8" I think?) cable from the pre-amp to the H15 and then plug in the sub to one of those switched outlets on the H15. When you turn the power to the AVR on, then the switch allows power to the sub. But of course this requires a pre-amp (AVR) with the switch jacks. Those are usually the higher tier of amps (AVR) and those (usually) have outlets anyway. Of course, the way things are going to the bare minimum lately, I wouldn't be surprised to see an AVR offer trigger output(s) and no outlets. What AVR are you looking at getting?

I just discovered that my RX-V3800 supports DC trigger also, although not well documented in the manual. I think I am going to make the change in my current setup to utilize the trigger (my sub has fuse protection. Heh Heh). The only trouble is I do not have the necessary cable. The APC H15 didn't come with one and neither did the AVR.

So it is basically just a standard mini-phono cable, correct?

More nonsense.
:rolleyes:Ask anyone.
Must be what you did this time.
That 65watts can certainly peak much, much higher...
Amp has 2 dB headroom, max is 100 watts. Assuming 50% efficiency, max draw is maybe 2 amps, ignoring in-rush current when the amp is powered on, and that should be limited, hardly a concern. It is not like this is a house wrecker sub.
...but you just keep believing what you want.
Well, if it is between believing what I know, and believing you, I'll go with me any day, at least on this one. Strange, you usally get these things right.

Well, you go with what you think, the rest of us will go with what's right...

I just discovered that my RX-V3800 supports DC trigger also, although not well documented in the manual. I think I am going to make the change in my current setup to utilize the trigger (my sub has fuse protection. Heh Heh). The only trouble is I do not have the necessary cable. The APC H15 didn't come with one and neither did the AVR.

So it is basically just a standard mini-phono cable, correct?

Correct. Any Radio shack or some video game connecting cable should do the trick...

Well, you go with what you think, the rest of us will go with what's right...
Gee, you are awfully long on rhetoric and short on facts today. You got a mouse in your pocket?

I went out and grabbed a 6' mini-phono cable and hooked one end of the cable to the H15's DC Trigger "IN" and the other to one of the two DC Triggers on my AVR. Then, my sub's power cord was plugged into the subwoofer outlet on the H15.

It works! There's a slight delay before the sub comes on but that is how it is designed.

I have a new problem, however. Now when the sub is powered down, I hear a rather loud "pop" coming from it. When it was connected directly to the AVR's outlet and the AVR was switched off, at most all I heard was a little blip.

Is there anything that can be done to stop this pop from happening?

A "pop" or a 'thump'? If the former, that doesn't sound good and I would investigate maybe using the other DC trigger on the AVR. If a thump, that is just the sub amp. Annoying as hell but won't hurt anything. If too annoying, as I suggested earlier, just leave it plugged in directly. When in stand-by, the power consumption is minimal at worst.

It is more of a thump, actually. I've also noticed it doesn't happen with each activity. I will have to do some more testing to see how widespread it is.


A "pop" or a 'thump'? If the former, that doesn't sound good and I would investigate maybe using the other DC trigger on the AVR. If a thump, that is just the sub amp. Annoying as hell but won't hurt anything. If too annoying, as I suggested earlier, just leave it plugged in directly. When in stand-by, the power consumption is minimal at worst.