View Full Version : How bad is it to have subs "inside" cabinetry? Addressing WAF.


mkanter
01-28-09, 03:53 AM
Ok, so I've mostly been lurking on the forum so far... I'm now closing in on the end of my home theater design and I'm struggling with balancing WAF and designing for the best sound.

I've got a room that's roughly 22'x12.5'. It's in the basement and before I had a full plan for the theater I had to run all the cables, etc inside the wall. That all turned out pretty well, I planned for separate circuits for subs and amps, etc. I ran speaker wire for 7 surround channels but it seems I've limited myself, for the sub(s) to having them on the end of the room with the screen. I currently have a nice big SVS 16-46Hz PC-Plus which has low WAF and needs to go.

So I'm trying to finish my plan which includes a nice big 130" wide 2.35:1 AT screen from SeymourAV which rolls up into the ceiling... btw, I've already got a Panasonic PT-AE3000 to go with it... In order to obtain approval from my SO the screen needs to roll-up completely out of the way and everything needs to be hidden in cabinets. Here's the design....

tiny[removethis]url (dot) com (slash) ased7s
(I was under the 3 post minimum for urls, hopefully you can decipher that.)

There's space behind the cabinets for wire and heavy duty slides for the components. Speakers will be on shelves behind the screen (when it's down). But the subs... my wife wants the cabinets to be symmetrical and that means potentially two (poor me) smaller subs. The opening for the subs is currently 20" W x 22" H x 30" D. They'll be fully open in the front, sit right on the floor, but there will be cabinet/wall to the left and right and counter above (though in theory I could cut the counter back above the subs). The black squares at the lower left/right of the pictures are where the subs go. But will they be ok "in" the cabinets? Will they rattle the cabinets to pieces or will the cabinetry screw with the sound?

Please give me your thoughts/advice... thank you!

Ericthemidget
01-28-09, 07:45 AM
If the cabinents are very secure and you can open the doors, you should be OK. It won't be great, but it's better than dealing with a pissed off wife.

Just be prepared for the forum members who come in here and tell you how to deal with your wife. I always love when "big burly men" on the internet tell me how to run my life!

If you want to sell your sub, PM me.

Here is your link by the way:

http://max-n-julieann.smugmug.com/gallery/7211419_AdiyB#463247108_Dyoiv

Ericthemidget
01-28-09, 07:49 AM
PB10s or 12+ from SVS should fit in there

CptnRandy
01-28-09, 09:38 AM
And instead of doors, you could make an acoustically transparent fabric covers.

Don't sacrifice the sub!

Randy

mkanter
01-28-09, 11:14 AM
Eric/Randy,

Thanks for the advice so far.

The opening for the subs is currently 20" W x 22" H x 30" D. They'll be fully open in the front, sit right on the floor, but there will be cabinet/wall to the left and right and counter above (though in theory I could cut the counter back above the subs). The black squares at the lower left/right of the pictures are where the subs go.

So what I was trying to say here was that there would be no doors in front of the cabinets that the subs are "in"... actually the subs wouldn't be in cabinets, the cabinets would be in the center of the room between the subs, but the countertop would span the entire width of the room over top of the subs. That places the subs on the floor with the subs in let's say, "a tunnel" of sorts. Also I could perhaps cut the countertop back at a 45 degree angle towards the corners (making it a trapezoid shape).

Yeah, I was thinking (if I don't cut the countertops back on an angle) that I might cover the opening with speaker fabric or a grill of some sort. It would need to be stiff so the cat doesn't claw it (sigh).

Couple more questions...
1) Should I use an acoustic tape or caulk in the cabinet seems?
2) Should I use something like Dynamat in the "tunnel" the subs sit in, on the sides ceiling/under the countertop, and behind them?

Thanks again!

Ericthemidget
01-28-09, 11:26 AM
I don't think you need to get overly inventive with this set up. I looked at your diagram and it seems that it will work very well.

I would do your build, slide the subs in, and work from there. I would not cut the granite counter tops (your wife would probably have a conniption) and perhaps cover the opening in acoustical fabric. They will sound fine.

You could get 2 PB10's for a great great price that will give you plenty of output and fit in there without trouble.

Ventus
01-28-09, 12:36 PM
I feel you on the cat issue. I've been dealing with a few ferret related issues as of late. Apparently, unplugging cables is also a genetic imperative with weasels.

dwightp
01-28-09, 05:02 PM
Will they rattle the cabinets to pieces or will the cabinetry screw with the sound?

I don't think you will have any problems. My situation is very similar to yours but maybe more extreme. My down-firing SVS sub sits on the floor but is surrounded by a cabinet. The cabinet has legs that elevate it off the floor and allow the sub to breathe without restriction. The point is that, even with the sub located behind two hinged doors, the cabinet never audibly rattles or creaks or anything. The DVD player, receiver and DVR located in the same cabinet never hiccup. I have no problems at all.

In your situation, front-firing subs are likely to work very well. If you use subs that have drivers or ports that don't fire out the front, you should try to leave enough space around the sub for those drivers or ports to breathe. Subs need to move quite a bit of air to pressurize a room.

mkanter
01-28-09, 06:45 PM
In your situation, front-firing subs are likely to work very well.

Logic told me that should be the case... You only have so many opportunities to trade in one huge sub for two smaller, but more impressive subs with spousal approval. I'm spending way more on cabinets per her request so

So I'm thinking, as an existing SVS customer, I'd like to squeeze in a pair of SVS PB12-Plus'... what do you think, since they're front firing, the tight fit is ok? Only 1/2 or 1" gap around the sides... Isn't bass non-directional? Or is the main concern that the air flow isn't stifled... Cats/ferrets... aren't pets wonderful? SVS has a steel grill option which would work well in my case.

Or since it would match the surrounds.. maybe a pair DefTec Super Cube I's... they wouldn't fit quite as nicely in the openings though. Also, the tech is older compared to SVS.

Any other sub recommendations for this setup?

btw - I spoke with Chris, the owner of SeymourAV and he's got a new fabric for screens. He's sending me samples!!! :D It's all starting to come together.

mkanter
01-28-09, 06:49 PM
I would not cut the granite counter tops (your wife would probably have a conniption) and perhaps cover the opening in acoustical fabric.

:eek: No, I woudn't do that with granite. The counter's just going to be more cabinet wood. The surface won't be used for anything other then the cat to sit on when the screen is up. Hopefully, with the screen down, there won't be enough room.

Not really described so far, but the opposite end of the room has a little kitchenette, with everything but a dish washer, the same cabinets... but in that space we got Dupont Zodiaq counters.

Ericthemidget
01-28-09, 10:39 PM
Logic told me that should be the case... You only have so many opportunities to trade in one huge sub for two smaller, but more impressive subs with spousal approval. I'm spending way more on cabinets per her request so

So I'm thinking, as an existing SVS customer, I'd like to squeeze in a pair of SVS PB12-Plus'... what do you think, since they're front firing, the tight fit is ok? Only 1/2 or 1" gap around the sides... Isn't bass non-directional? Or is the main concern that the air flow isn't stifled... Cats/ferrets... aren't pets wonderful? SVS has a steel grill option which would work well in my case.

Or since it would match the surrounds.. maybe a pair DefTec Super Cube I's... they wouldn't fit quite as nicely in the openings though. Also, the tech is older compared to SVS.

Any other sub recommendations for this setup?

btw - I spoke with Chris, the owner of SeymourAV and he's got a new fabric for screens. He's sending me samples!!! :D It's all starting to come together.

don't get the def techs! I just got rid of my super cube 3 because it sounded awful

scaesare
01-29-09, 11:39 AM
I did this... I selected a pair of SVS PB10's that were front firing/ported. The cabinetry was screwed/glued to avoid rattles:

Wide shot during framing:
http://www.caesare.com/basement/slides/IMG_1364.jpg

Close up of left cavity:
http://www.caesare.com/basement/slides/IMG_1430.jpg

Close up of completed left side w/ sub in place:
http://www.caesare.com/basement/slides/IMG_2024.jpg

More pics HERE (http://www.caesare.com/basement)

mkanter
01-29-09, 12:34 PM
The cabinetry was screwed/glued to avoid rattles

Wow Steve, does your setup sound as nice as it looks?

I think you guys have got me convinced it'll be fine. Just to be on the safe side I may get some green glue and make sure everything cabinet-wise is screwed together.

scaesare
01-30-09, 12:53 PM
Thanks for the kind words....

I certainly didn't go real high-end in terms of audio, but I'm very pleased with my bang:buck ratio... and I have to say the SVS subs are great performers.

Oh yeah- I also lined the speaker cavaties with Linacoustic to tone down any local reverberation...

dwightp
01-30-09, 06:11 PM
So I'm thinking, as an existing SVS customer, I'd like to squeeze in a pair of SVS PB12-Plus'... what do you think, since they're front firing, the tight fit is ok? Only 1/2 or 1" gap around the sides...

That sounds perfect. Better than perfect! Can it be mere coincidence that these subs will fit your space so precisely? I think not! It's a sign, man, it's a sign! These subs are your DESTINY! Resistance is futile!