Thanks to everyone who posts on this site for all of the time you spend so us lurkers can learn from the experts. I recently moved to a different house that has a mostly framed but otherwise unfinished basement. I am looking for opinions about effective methods to reduce sound transmission into/out of the basement. I have read every thread on this site that has anything to do with sound proofing, and am much more knowledgeable on the subject thanks to all of the information I've found.

I understand that the most common and effective method is double drywall plus green glue plus decoupling clips of some sort. And I also realize that your sound proofing is only as good as your weakest link, and have read about the aquarium theory. (Though I have to say, as an engineer that theory does not completely make sense to me. Any improvements in any area should help at least some. For example, a partially closed door reduces sound more than a completely open door.) If I were creating a dedicated home theater room, I would take the DD+GG approach, but for a 1300 sf basement I don't have the budget to do this, or more importantly, enough friends to haul that much sheetrock to the basement!

My current plan is to use a single layer of 5/8" sheetrock for the walls, for the ceiling using R13 plus a drop ceiling, and a solid core door at the top of the stairs. So here are my questions:

1) Will that approach to the ceiling keep any sound in/out? I assume that would be the weak link based on my initial plan?
2) Are there any recommendations for specific ceiling tiles that might perform better? I have a few "features" in the basement that jut below my ceiling joists, so sheetrocking the ceiling would be a big challenge.
3) If there are recommendations for the ceiling to improve its performance, can I reach a point where installing sound isolation clips on the walls would help, or is there simply no way that I can make a drop ceiling sound proof enough to justify clips for the sheetrock on the wall?
4) My ducts are insulated on the inside. Will that be sufficient to keep them from being the weak link?
5) For those of you who have posted pics of your beautiful rooms that have drop ceilings, how have you found the sound characteristics? Do you hear people walking around upstairs? More importantly, can people upstairs hear every time you watch a movie?

Again, many thanks to all of you for your posts and also for your responses to my questions.

Every 2 story house in your town probably has a drywall ceiling on the first floor. With all the bathrooms, concealed plumbing, electrical and HVAC duct work going up to the second floor you would think they would all have suspended ceilings.

Get over the phobia of drywalling the basement ceiling and put up two layers with GG. Use RSIC clips and channel if you can afford it.

Dry wall your ceiling and add access panels. Drop ceilings are tacky, ugly, and very dated.

Add access panels only if there is something that needs shutting off, like a gas valve. If you have outdoor water spigots with internal shout offs replace with outdoor spigots designed to shut the water off inside the house from the outside. That eliminates the need for indoor shut offs in the ceiling.

in agreement with above. you'll be investing good money so i'd go with a more up to date look, which means dry wall ceiling. better resale value too (assuming that concept comes back to mean something some day :)). you won't really need that many access panels, maybe just for shut off valves for new plumbing in the basement itself (tough to get the timing of the overall project perfect)......BUT, make sure to take plenty of pictures of walls, ceiling before insulation/sheetrock goes up for future reference. i was in a similar situation as you last summer: wanted to reduce noise coming from basement (so can shoot pool, play music loud, etc.), and my solution given my budget was thicker insulation in the ceiling (R30 cathedral). haven't been able to test out yet--still assembling sysem--but you can feel how well insulated the space is and that'll have to help for sound. also: quality floor underlayment, several large area rugs with thick padding under each, thick couches, etc.

Probably moving towards a media/game room rather than a dedicated HT. How much will a ceiling with RSIC/channel and double-layer drywall with GG help if I don't have the option creating a complete room within a room? Will doing double-layer drywall with GG around the FAU help?

Wow, so if I read between the lines and try to pick up the subtle hints from you guys, I think you are suggesting that I should avoid the suspended ceiling and just go with sheetrock on the ceiling? Thanks for the responses. I will plan on DD+GG, but I doubt I'm going to be able to also fund the RSIC clips, as adding GG + another layer of drywall will set my project back several months in terms of funding anyway.

So that brings me to my next set of questions. First, do I need to insulate if I go with DD+GG? From a heating/cooling point of view, it really doesn't matter as the basement is a pretty consistent temperature, so I would just insulate if there was a benefit in terms of sound reduction? Second (and this one is more difficult I think) what cables/wires do I need to be sure to run since I won't have access to run much additional wiring after I put up 700,000 pounds of drywall? Right now, and for at least the near future I will simply be using a regular TV (60") but not a projector, and I only have a 5.1 set-up right now. I'm more concerned about being sure that I run Cat-5 and such to somewhat future proof. So, please share your recommendations on this subject.

Thanks again to all for your feedback.

i find your 2nd question easier....assuming the configuration of your basement makes it obvious from an A/V rack location, speaker placement, etc. point of view. plan for a 5.1 or a 5.2 or a 7.2 now and run all the wires accordingly (nice 12 gauge that is not monster, subwoofer cables that are not monster, etc.). and of course an HDMI from A/V area to where HDTV will be (or if projector plus screen that changes things). better yet, for where HDTV or projector will be, run conduit back to where A/V rack will be. when boring through joists, etc., just try to go for the outer 1/3 of each span and then go right through the middle. if don't know where sub, surround speakers, etc. might end up, just run multiple runs of wire so can decide later. re Cat-5, that just needs to find its way to where your receiver (et al) will be, right?

regarding your 1st question, i'd go ahead and throw up the insulation too. should be good bang for the buck (even in terms of sound suppression), but it suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks stuffing above your head (make sure wearing long sleeves, gloves, air filter, eyeware, etc.)

First, do I need to insulate if I go with DD+GG?
Would you buy a new car but without seats?
The insulation is cheap in the overall scheme of things and certainly a help.

post a picture of the "features" you mention that you think might impact the ceiling. you said a few, so i discounted that factor. you can usually box/trim etc to make look nice enough and then with matching paint help disappear, but maybe something bigger? there's nothing wrong with drop ceiling and can be very practical. if have hte headroom to spare (IMO the biggest consideration). i just prefer to make the new area blend into the rest of the house as best possible, so becomes an additional level (as opposed to still the basement or attic or whatever), but that's just me. well done drop ceilings can look real nice too