Since my Antenna is 130 feet from my house grounding rod (180 feet of total length from antenna to receiver), I was considering attaching the grounding wire to the ground inside an electrical outlet in the home. This would save me about 150 feet of cable since I can go from the chimney to the Satellite receiver directly with the RG6 cable and the grounding wire can attach to one of the power outlets.

Is there any drawbacks to doing this or should I just run the whole thing to the ground block of the house. I figured since the the grounds on the outlets run to the house grounding rod it's the same thing. But I'm not an electrician so that is why I'm asking.

I won't meet code. Installing a non-conforming ground is often better than not grounding, but I will only say that as an anonymous contributor.

Up until, I think, the 2002 revision, the NEC permitted grounding to cold water pipes. provided they were bonded to, and therefore a part of, the building's ground electrode system That is now prohibited not because of any inadequacy of a continuous grounded cold water pipe to serve as a ground, but because, with so much plumbing repair being done with plastic, there is now a concern that such a ground path could be disrupted by a future plumbing repairs. In fact, there is an exception in the NEC that says cold water pipes can be used for grounds if they are in commercial buildings in which the plumbing is professionally maintained and is substantially visible.

If it is your house, and if you can see that the copper cold water pipe from the pont where it enters your building to the most convenient ground wire attachment point has not been broken with a plastic repair, then if you attach your ground wire to that copper pipe, you will have a very nice, relaible ground connection that will technically not meet the current revision of the NEC, but which will ground your system well.

NEC guidelines for grounding are shown here (scroll down about 3/4 way down): http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/basics.html The goal is to keep nearby lightening outside the home. May be a local code violation as well if you do not follow NEC guidelines and may impact your ability to collect insurance due to a self install.

The objective of grounding the mast is to drain off static electricity so as to make it a less inviting target for lightning. The objective of grounding the coax outer conductor at the point at which it enters the building is to prevent high voltages from creating shock hazards, as may be the case if a line voltage wire shorts to the coax outer conductor.

I have been in the antenna business for over 30 years and have never known of a single instance in which anyone failed to collect a residential claim because they self installed their antenna in non-compliance with the National Electrical Code, but I have been engaged to fill out claim forms for residents whose equipment was apparently damaged by lightning and they all collected even though none of their antenna systems were grounded according to the NEC specifications.

The penalty for failing to adhere to local codes is administered by the mattress tag police.

BRAIN OVERLOAD!! That is some REALLY great information and I appreciate it very much. I think I will do the right thing and find something that meets code and provides the proper ground.

Now to determine if the additional length of cable will hinder my signal strength to the point where I will need a Pre-amp for my antenna. :cool:

MagnumVP

I had my antennas grounded to a cold water pipe originally because my house ground was 100 ft on the other side of my house and the pipe was the easiest ground I could find. Then one day I traced the pipes back and found plastic pipe connected out to my well. It was then time to rethink my situation. I have since installed a ground rod near the antennas and ran a bonding wire from that rod to my house ground. More work...yes but better safe than sorry.

I have been in the antenna business for over 30 years and have never known of a single instance in which anyone failed to collect a residential claim because they self installed their antenna in non-compliance with the National Electrical Code, but I have been engaged to fill out claim forms for residents whose equipment was apparently damaged by lightning and they all collected even though none of their antenna systems were grounded according to the NEC specifications.

The penalty for failing to adhere to local codes is administeered by the mattress tag police.

LOL Ok, I stand corrected. :) Curious, do building inspects check for grounding violations? Could it impact a home sale or result in a needed quick fix to complete a home sale?

RG/6 will not provide a good safety ground for an antenna. Also if the RG/6 is connected to the antenna through a balun transformer it may not even have a ground path.

RG/6 will not provide a good safety ground for an antenna. Also if the RG/6 is connected to the antenna through a balun transformer it may not even have a ground path.

I wasn't going to use the RG6 cable as the ground. I have a separate ground away from the RG6 cable.

Since my Antenna is 130 feet from my house grounding rod (180 feet of total length from antenna to receiver), I was considering attaching the grounding wire to the ground inside an electrical outlet in the home. This would save me about 150 feet of cable since I can go from the chimney to the Satellite receiver directly with the RG6 cable and the grounding wire can attach to one of the power outlets.

Is there any drawbacks to doing this or should I just run the whole thing to the ground block of the house. I figured since the the grounds on the outlets run to the house grounding rod it's the same thing. But I'm not an electrician so that is why I'm asking.

BRAIN OVERLOAD!! That is some REALLY great information and I appreciate it very much. I think I will do the right thing and find something that meets code and provides the proper ground.

Now to determine if the additional length of cable will hinder my signal strength to the point where I will need a Pre-amp for my antenna. :cool:

there isn't any extra coax cable involved if the grounding is done to code as others have pointed out.

a grounding rod is placed near the antenna outside the house. a grounding block is placed before the coax enters your house. the grounding block is connected to the antenna grounding rod. the antenna grounding rod is connected to your house grounding system at the house grounding sytem grounding electrode, this would involve solid or stranded wire and not coax with a ground messenger.

The penalty for failing to adhere to local codes is administeered by the mattress tag police.

Perhaps for the homeowner, but the professional installer could face loss of license.

(Full disclosure, not to be read by my local building inspector: I grounded my coax to a cold water pipe. And yes, I can see it all the way to the split point. And while there's plastic in the way (a water softener bypass valve), it's bridged with a copper wire.)

Perhaps for the homeowner, but the professional installer could face loss of license.

(Full disclosure, not to be read by my local building inspector: I grounded my coax to a cold water pipe. And yes, I can see it all the way to the split point. And while there's plastic in the way (a water softener bypass valve), it's bridged with a copper wire.)

any plumbing work that interrupts conductivity should be bonded as you have. even if you are not using your metal plumbing as a grounding electrode to not have it grounded in totality is a hazard.

So even if I run only the RG6 from the antenna to the grounding block (through my attic about 100' away on the other side of my house) that doesn't constitute as being grounded? Even if the grounding block is attached to the house grounding rod?:confused:

Attached is a diagram of what I was considering for my wire grounding.

Here is what I'm using for the grounding block. http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/JVI/JVI_GRB4_Grounding_Block_4_splice_block.htm

So even if I run only the RG6 from the antenna to the grounding block (through my attic about 100' away on the other side of my house) that doesn't constitute as being grounded? Even if the grounding block is attached to the house grounding rod?:confused:

Attached is a diagram of what I was considering for my wire grounding.

Here is what I'm using for the grounding block.

your diagram and description don't seem clear to me, seems ambiguous or contradictory.

the grounding block needs to be outside your house before the coax comes in. this grounding block needs to have a wire from it running outside your house to the antenna grounding rod. you want any high voltage on your antenna (like induced current from nearby lightning strikes, with in 2 miles) to go to the earth without entering your house. if it comes in your house it could start a fire. the cost of a couple hundred feet of 6AWG wire to do it correctly is cheaper.

people have related stories in this forum about inadequate grounding like

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14830591&highlight=#post14830591

that story is something to think about if you care about keeping your house.

Rg6 from the antenna should be attached to the grounding block before it enters the home. The antenna mast needs a separate ground wire directly to the house ground. see the link I posted earlier

your diagram and description don't seem clear to me, seems ambiguous or contradictory.

the grounding block needs to be outside your house before the coax comes in. this grounding block needs to have a wire from it running outside your house to the antenna grounding rod. you want any high voltage on your antenna (like induced current from nearby lightning strikes, with in 2 miles) to go to the earth without entering your house. if it comes in your house it could start a fire. the cost of a couple hundred feet of 6AWG wire to do it correctly is cheaper.

people have related stories in this forum about inadequate grounding like

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14830591&highlight=#post14830591

that story is something to think about if you care about keeping your house.

Sorry for all the confusion. I drew one out and scanned it in to get a better look at how it is setup. The only difference right now is that there is no antenna up since that is what I'm trying to figure out. Does this make more sense?

So even if I run only the RG6 from the antenna to the grounding block (through my attic about 100' away on the other side of my house) that doesn't constitute as being grounded? Even if the grounding block is attached to the house grounding rod?:confused:


Sorry for all the confusion. I drew one out and scanned it in to get a better look at how it is setup. The only difference right now is that there is no antenna up since that is what I'm trying to figure out. Does this make more sense?

the diagrams show the grounding block outside your house as it should be. it isn't clear if the grounding rod is your house grounding rod or the antenna mast grounding rod.

your above text has coax running through your attic from the grounding block. but the text is not clear if the grounding block would only connect to the house grounding rod (by passing into the house before reaching an outside grounding rod) or to the antenna mast grounding rod.

the antenna mast grounding connection and the grounding block has to go to a grounding rod before it enters the house to be done according to code. the antenna mast grounding rod has to be connected to your house grounding rod with 6AWG wire. if you place your antenna mast near your house grounding rod then you could use that single grounding rod.

the diagrams show the grounding block outside your house as it should be. it isn't clear if the grounding rod is your house grounding rod or the antenna mast grounding rod.

your above text has coax running through your attic from the grounding block. but the text is not clear if the grounding block would only connect to the house grounding rod (by passing into the house before reaching an outside grounding rod) or to the antenna mast grounding rod.

the antenna mast grounding connection and the grounding block has to go to a grounding rod before it enters the house to be done according to code. the antenna mast grounding rod has to be connected to your house grounding rod with 6AWG wire. if you place your antenna mast near your house grounding rod then you could use that single grounding rod.

The grounding rod is the house grounding rod.

This is where I get confused. I have read where you need a separate grounding rod for your antenna, then I go and read this about the Grounding Block.

http://www.summitsource.com/coax-grounding-block-ftype-single-cable-antenna-ground-block-tv-antenna-satellite-dish-signal-lightning-power-surge-protector-connect-base-p-5135.html

It reads, "This ground block is used to ground a single coax cable from a satellite dish or outdoor antenna. Used to ground and help protect fragile electronics such as satellite receiver and television from damaging lightning strikes and power surges."

Doesn't that mean that you only need the Coax to run to the Ground Block and as long as your grounding block is proper grounded you don't need a secondary ground?

To answer your question about the "through the house" I'm assuming that if I do go through the house (through the attic) that I will need an Antenna Ground Rod attached to the antenna. However if I stay outside and keep the cable under the eaves of the house, can I just use the grounding block that is attached to the House Grounding Rod?

The grounding rod is the house grounding rod.

This is where I get confused. I have read where you need a separate grounding rod for your antenna, then I go and read this about the Grounding Block.

http://www.summitsource.com/coax-grounding-block-ftype-single-cable-antenna-ground-block-tv-antenna-satellite-dish-signal-lightning-power-surge-protector-connect-base-p-5135.html

It reads, "This ground block is used to ground a single coax cable from a satellite dish or outdoor antenna. Used to ground and help protect fragile electronics such as satellite receiver and television from damaging lightning strikes and power surges."

Doesn't that mean that you only need the Coax to run to the Ground Block and as long as your grounding block is proper grounded you don't need a secondary ground?

To answer your question about the "through the house" I'm assuming that if I do go through the house (through the attic) that I will need an Antenna Ground Rod attached to the antenna. However if I stay outside and keep the cable under the eaves of the house, can I just use the grounding block that is attached to the House Grounding Rod?

look at the grounding diagram at

http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/basics.html

if the antenna mast is far away from your house grounding rod then the antenna mast needs a separate grounding rod.

if the antenna mast is near your house grounding rod (same side of the house) then the antenna mast could be grounded to the house grounding rod.

sometimes product package descriptions aren't the most accurate or need to be understood in the context of good practices or building codes.

for the grounding block to be properly grounded it has to go by the shortest path (totally outside your house) to a nearby grounding rod outside your house.

a long run of coax outside your house before reaching the grounding block or running the ground wire attached to the grounding block for a long distance along the house structure is all where high voltage electricity (from even a lightning strike within two miles) could still start your house on fire. the electricity wants to get to the earth quickly and will find a path there even burning through cable insulation.

read this post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14830591&highlight=#post14830591

electricity from lightning can and will go every where until its energy is dissipated or until it finds the earth, some of that process might be setting your house on fire.

Thank you for all the information. I think just to be safe and sane I will add a grounding rod to the antenna and run it down to the ground (about 15 feet) and then run the coax cable through the attic (about 80 feet at the most) to the house grounding block. It will be grounded twice but better safe than sorry.

Thank you for all the information. I think just to be safe and sane I will add a grounding rod to the antenna and run it down to the ground (about 15 feet) and then run the coax cable through the attic (about 80 feet at the most) to the house grounding block. It will be grounded twice but better safe than sorry.

the coax should go to a grounding block before the coax enters your house, that antenna grounding block be connected to the antenna grounding rod. the grounding block should be placed near the ground. if you could run the coax into the basement to bring it in the house then do that. if you need to run the coax through the attic then you should run the coax back up the outside from that point.

look at the drawing about grounding at

http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/basics.html

you want to do similar to that.

I don't have a basement. Foundation is solid concrete. What I'm planning on doing is wiring the antenna to a Single Coax Grounding Block. Attach that block to the chimney. The from the block run the copper ground cable down my roof under the rain gutter through grey PVC (just for looks) against the wall and then attach that to a copper rod which I have driven into the ground 4 feet.

I have attached a picture of the back roof and chimney to give a better look at what I am referring too. The green line is the copper wire that will be running down the roof. The teal is the Coax from the Antenna to the Grounding Block into the Attic. I hope this helps to make sense.

I don't have a basement. Foundation is solid concrete. What I'm planning on doing is wiring the antenna to a Single Coax Grounding Block. Attach that block to the chimney. The from the block run the copper ground cable down my roof under the rain gutter through grey PVC (just for looks) against the wall and then attach that to a copper rod which I have driven into the ground 4 feet.

I have attached a picture of the back roof and chimney to give a better look at what I am referring too. The green line is the copper wire that will be running down the roof. The teal is the Coax from the Antenna to the Grounding Block into the Attic. I hope this helps to make sense.

what you propose isn't the best practice or up to building code in many locations. but it is better than nothing.

better would be an 8 foot ground rod. better would be to have the grounding block close to the ground level, run the coax down to that. you could then run the coax up the wall and go in to the attic through the soffit rather then the roof vent. having the ground block near the grounding rod makes it much more effective. having the grounding block far from the grounding rod makes the chance of damaging electricity entering your house much more likely.

what you propose isn't the best practice or up to building code in many locations. but it is better than nothing.

better would be an 8 foot ground rod. better would be to have the grounding block close to the ground level, run the coax down to that. you could then run the coax up the wall and go in to the attic through the soffit rather then the roof vent. having the ground block near the grounding rod makes it much more effective. having the grounding block far from the grounding rod makes the chance of damaging electricity entering your house much more likely.

Well at this point the only option that I have is to run the 130' foot cable around my house under the eves and to the house grounding block. It will be grounded, but I'm just worried about the 130' run being too long for both a ground and HDTV attenuation. But at least with this option it will be up to code and properly grounded.

Is 130' to far for a single coax ground?

When it comes to the current setup (see the picture in the above post) I can't drive the 8' rod into ground anymore, must have hit hard pan or clay or something impossible to bypass. Even my 10 lb sledge doesn't make a dent driving it down so I guess 4' down isn't enough.

what you propose isn't the best practice or up to building code in many locations. but it is better than nothing.

better would be an 8 foot ground rod. better would be to have the grounding block close to the ground level, run the coax down to that. you could then run the coax up the wall and go in to the attic through the soffit rather then the roof vent. having the ground block near the grounding rod makes it much more effective. having the grounding block far from the grounding rod makes the chance of damaging electricity entering your house much more likely.

As I'm sitting here pondering by predicament I got to thinking, it would be so much easier just to move the antenna to the eve where the wires come into the house. The ground is there, the wires are there and everything will work. The only issue I have is that my neighbors house is 10 feet away and in the direct line of site for the HDTV channels. However since I have such good signal strength were I live I wonder if it will matter. I guess I can always try it and find out.

Well I attached it to the close eave and gable. Attached is a picture of the setup. It's about a 30 foot run and attaches to the Grounding Block which is directly attached to the House Grounding Rod.

Once it was setup, I scanned for new local channels and not I receive 25 local channels. ABC, NBC, CBS, Fox, WB, and 20 that I have never heard of. My lowest signal strength is 94/100. CBS, NBC is 100/100 where Fox and ABC are 94/100.

Everything turned out great!!!! Thank you for all the help that everyone assisted with.

From what i have been told is the best way to ground the antenna is to the Power Box where the power meter is on the outside of the house, that is where Suburban/Comcast Cable teaching comes into play as i used to work is thats where installers are suppossed to put the grounding for the entrence of the Drop from the Tap to the house, then ground block to the Set of Screws on the Power Meter on the outside of the house. And we were told never to ever just try to ground it to a Grounding slot on an Outlet as it will not work, and Cold Water Lines in most parts of the country are still solid metal to the source outside if older than 20 years old but anything younger then 20 years old house wise the coldwater line into the house maybe PVC styled which will not ground at all.

From what i have been told is the best way to ground the antenna is to the Power Box where the power meter is on the outside of the house, that is where Suburban/Comcast Cable teaching comes into play as i used to work is thats where installers are suppossed to put the grounding for the entrence of the Drop from the Tap to the house, then ground block to the Set of Screws on the Power Meter on the outside of the house. And we were told never to ever just try to ground it to a Grounding slot on an Outlet as it will not work, and Cold Water Lines in most parts of the country are still solid metal to the source outside if older than 20 years old but anything younger then 20 years old house wise the coldwater line into the house maybe PVC styled which will not ground at all.

Thank you. I ended up grounding it to the house grounding rod where all the current communication is grounded. Nothing ever enters the house in regards to static electricity.