Hello AVS readers. Yesterday I started a family room remodel that will consist of removing a drop ceiling, wood paneling, old insulation, random lights and a ceiling fan.
A new ceiling with 8 recessed lights will be installed, with brand new insulation. All walls will have new insulation and will be drywalled with 1/2 inch drywall.
The room was originally a one car garage that was converted to a family room with dimensions of approximately 27x18. The drop ceiling was installed over another panel/tile ceiling that was part of the orginal conversion.
Unfortunately due to lack of skills and time I am not doing any of the real labor myself.
But I think it's worth posting here because I am doing the design and buying all the equipment myself. Maybe a few will enjoy reading about the process and post their thoughts on my equipment and design choices.

Ceiling
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3077/3268430610_34b4d4d56f.jpg?v=0

Facing the back of the room
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Facing the back yard
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Towards the main part of the house
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The back of the room
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Just another shot of the middle of the room
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very creative seating arrangement :p

Ceiling - this ceiling will also be removed
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Facing backyard
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Towards the front of the house:
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Back of the room:
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Window and closet (window will be covered up and closet will contain AV equipment and have double doors)
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Can someone give me some tips on installing in-wall speakers into my new construction? I've only ever installed in-walls into existing construction.
Do I NEED a pre-mount construction kit or something along those lines? Any advice or links would be great.
Please note I am spending a bit on speakers and electronics (B&W in walls and Rotel amplication/Integra Pre Pro) so if you think I would benefit from a construction kit please let me know.

Thank you.

Here are some pictures I took today. Project has had 5 full days of work. Gutted entire room, ran most of the wiring (high and low voltage) and have most of the insulation complete. I don't think it's reasonable that we will be done with construction and ready for paint after 5 additional full days of work, but my fingers are crossed.

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Here are my fronts! Can't wait to put them in.
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Can someone give me some tips on installing in-wall speakers into my new construction? I've only ever installed in-walls into existing construction.
Do I NEED a pre-mount construction kit or something along those lines? Any advice or links would be great.
Please note I am spending a bit on speakers and electronics (B&W in walls and Rotel amplication/Integra Pre Pro) so if you think I would benefit from a construction kit please let me know.

Thank you.

I wouldn't waste the money for the kits. Just drop the speaker cable down the wall cavity and install the speakers after the dry wall is up. That is how I did it, just made sure I was there when the drywall went in to mark the locations, just make sure you drop enough speaker cable. Came back later with an old fashioned drywall saw, stud finder and templates for the Polk speakers. Found the studs, traced the template outline, cut and installed with a screw gun.

I think the Polk construction kits were around $20 each! That was to much money to spend in my book (we installed allot of speakers, 18 inside and 6 outside) when a $5 saw and magic marker got the job done with very little effort. And I still have the saw!

Did you read the instructions for your speakers? It looks like they, B&W, want you to create a box in the wall that will enclose your speakers, both top and bottom. Essentially making a cabinet inside your wall. It also looks like they are recommending some sort of sound deadening insulation to also go into the cavity (box) that you have created. There are also measurements for the proper sized box you create inside your wall. I would carefully read your instructions to make sure your cavity is properly prepped for these speakers. My Polk's were like that, and I thought I better check on yours. Sure enough! We just used insulation less the paper for the sound deadening. They sound great to me.

And I would not mess with the new construction drywall kits, unless you need them. The Polk's I have let the installer decide on these kits, as they were not really needed, just made the install a little easier. Shaved off a minute or two, still not worth it in my book.

Mike

Mike,
Thanks for the responses. I have read the manual for my speakers, and I didn't read anywhere where they said to build a box. Although I have heard of people building MDF boxes, and I think B&W sell a back box kit. Really I was curious to know if people out there would have a die hard opinion that a speaker of this caliber (price) would be done injustice without a back box or pre-mount kit.
At this point I'm going to rely on the swing out dogs (6 total, so that's good, as these are heavy!) and the supplied padding and fiberglass insulation to damp the wall cavity.

As with most any cone speaker, the performance will be dependant on the enclosure. In your case, the enclosure is the wall so a couple of things should apply to get the most from the B&W and not have wasted so much $$$ on the very expensive Midwoofer. For starters, i would build an internal box for quite a few reasons. First would be for a sealed cavity since the Design is a bass reflex using the wall cavity as the enclosure. A sealed enclosure provides MUCH better control over the cone excursion resulting in improved midbass reproduction. The volume of the cavity should be as close to .5 cuft as possible as B&W has predetermined this volume to be most suitable given the dimensions of the PMK-W8 install boxes. If you choose to construct your own, the deeper the better. Be sure to include a rear panel to your enclosure. The thickness should be minimal and secured to the outside wall with construction adhesive and be of a material impervious to moisture. Speakers generate heat and when not in use the air will cool as will the enclosure and over time moisture will accumulate on the outer surfaces. A simple 10mil plastic vapor barriar will suffice. I'd build the box sides from Hardwood Plywood...MDF LOVES moisture! Seal all internal joints with a good silicone caulk. Be sure however the wires will pas into the enclosure that it is sealed. This would work fine http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245 Line the inside of the boxes with Sonic Barrier http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-520 and loosely fill the enclosure prior to installing the speaker with this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-330. When planning the installation position, try and have the tweeters as close to seated ear height on a horizontal plane, the center included. If you're not using an Acoustically transparent screen and the center must be below the screen, mount the left and right inverted and the center upright for a close as possible alignment of the tweeters. This will go a long ways toward an even horizontal response. Hope this helps and good luck.

Wow this is great information. With the walls going up today, is this something I can still do? If not, should I still get some of that Acousta stuff polyfill you suggested for the wall cavity?
Thanks for the information and I guarantee that next time (we're only in this house for a few more years and these speakers are coming with me) I'll do it right.

We decided to go with 12 lights all on one dimmer.

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looks like you're making some good progress

care to post your design plans?