I have the Chroma 5/Calman combo with AVCHD

Trying to calibrate and have a couple questions.

Problem 1:
Trying to adjust contrast using the screen that has the black in the middle with reference black labeled and the flashing white bars above and below. The default is maxed at 63 in the video menu, I can crank it down to zero and back up, none of the white bars seem to blend into the space between them, the overall picture gets darker and lighter but contrast between doesn't seem to change (unlike setting the brightness with the black patterns).

To get the temp to come down from over 10,000 I had to set the lamp to Standard instead of bright, this brought it down to 63K, anyone else have to do this?

Problem 2:
I have been trying to adjust using the Perfect Color and Perfect tint in the setup menus, which don't seem to make much difference when changing from 0 to 63 on measurements. Should I be using the service menu?

And the big question...
Does anyone have a key to what all the codes mean for this set? Most of them end in H, like GGH, GRH?

Appreciate any help or pointers
Thanks
Brian

...
Problem 1:
Trying to adjust contrast using the screen that has the black in the middle with reference black labeled and the flashing white bars above and below. The default is maxed at 63 in the video menu, I can crank it down to zero and back up, none of the white bars seem to blend into the space between them, the overall picture gets darker and lighter but contrast between doesn't seem to change (unlike setting the brightness with the black patterns).
...

This is a very common question, Brian, as the newest LCD/DLP and other technologies frequently never clip whites so you may never see the white bars merge. Several criteria have been recommended as important in setting Contrast correctly; Tom gives a good summary answer (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16050970#post16050970) to this, but you can find similar advice throughout this forum.

I have the Chroma 5/Calman combo with AVCHD

Trying to calibrate and have a couple questions.

Problem 1:
Trying to adjust contrast using the screen that has the black in the middle with reference black labeled and the flashing white bars above and below. The default is maxed at 63 in the video menu, I can crank it down to zero and back up, none of the white bars seem to blend into the space between them, the overall picture gets darker and lighter but contrast between doesn't seem to change (unlike setting the brightness with the black patterns).

To get the temp to come down from over 10,000 I had to set the lamp to Standard instead of bright, this brought it down to 63K, anyone else have to do this?

Problem 2:
I have been trying to adjust using the Perfect Color and Perfect tint in the setup menus, which don't seem to make much difference when changing from 0 to 63 on measurements. Should I be using the service menu?

And the big question...
Does anyone have a key to what all the codes mean for this set? Most of them end in H, like GGH, GRH?

Appreciate any help or pointers
Thanks
Brian

The perfect color controls should make a dramatic difference. It should be easily visible. I do know, though, that it acts differently in the perfect color menu than when you exit and view normally. For that reason, I take a primary/secondary reading run, make notes of the changes I want to make, go in and make them, then get out and re-measure. I do perfect color in the user menu; I don't think the service menu PC adjustments are active in those models.
GGH stands for gain green high, GRH = gain red high (red gain adjustment for the high color temp preset).

The perfect color controls should make a dramatic difference. It should be easily visible. I do know, though, that it acts differently in the perfect color menu than when you exit and view normally. For that reason, I take a primary/secondary reading run, make notes of the changes I want to make, go in and make them, then get out and re-measure. I do perfect color in the user menu; I don't think the service menu PC adjustments are active in those models.
GGH stands for gain green high, GRH = gain red high (red gain adjustment for the high color temp preset).

They make a difference visually but when adjusting the colors during the gray scale calibration they didn't make much difference to the meter whether they were at max or min.
The only thing I did that made much of a difference to Calman was dropping the bulb from bright to standard, brought it down from over 10,000 to 6300k.

I wonder if something else could be wrong...software setting or ...?

So in your experience making adjustments via the perfect color/tint make dramatic differences in what you see via a meter?

Do you have a cheat sheet for the other 50+ codes :D

They make a difference visually but when adjusting the colors during the gray scale calibration they didn't make much difference to the meter whether they were at max or min.
The only thing I did that made much of a difference to Calman was dropping the bulb from bright to standard, brought it down from over 10,000 to 6300k.
I wonder if something else could be wrong...software setting or ...?


Brian, adjusting the perfect color controls shouldn't affect the grayscale. They are for adjusting the characteristics of the primaries and secondaries. Grayscale controls should be labeled something like {R,G,B} offset/bias/cuts (low end) and {R,G,B} gain/drives (high end). I'm not sure if your set has such controls in the user menu or not.

hope this helps,


--tom

Thanks you helped me find part of my confusion when adjusting gray scale it said to increase green brightness to move the scale to the left... what I missed was BRIGHTNESS, not the actual color in the Perfect color menu.

NEXT QUESTION:
I don't have any of the mentioned choices in the normal user menus. I need to figure out what they are in the dang 3 letter abbreviations in the service menu. So if GGH is gain green high (High = color temp which I believe I am using) is a larger value a brighter setting and a lower value the opposite? So I would only need to adjust the the other two primaries...which I would hope are GBH and GRH...
(I'm doing basic grayscale calibration right now)

I appreciate you guys taking the time to help! I thought the meter or software was off ... adjusting the wrong thing, no wonder it didn't change the graph much:o

Anyway to get a cheat sheet for the codes?

Put the set's color temp user control to Low. Set Picture Mode to Natural and start with the contrast setting at 31.
#5 GGL = Green Gain
#6 GRL = Red Gain
#7 GBL = Blue Gain
#51 BMG = Green Cut
#52 BMR = Red Cut
#53 BMB = Blue Cut

Gamma can be raised and lowered according to how the CONmax control is set.
This set has a CMS system located in the service menu. I would not, however, attempt to adjust it with the meter that is being utilized. You will not get accurate results.

Put the set's color temp user control to Low. Set Picture Mode to Natural and start with the contrast setting at 31.
#5 GGL = Green Gain
#6 GRL = Red Gain
#7 GBL = Blue Gain
#51 BMG = Green Cut
#52 BMR = Red Cut
#53 BMB = Blue Cut

Gamma can be raised and lowered according to how the CONmax control is set.
This set has a CMS system located in the service menu. I would not, however, attempt to adjust it with the meter that is being utilized. You will not get accurate results.


Perfect, thank you, I think I have it very close.

Now I have to figure out what all these graphs are telling me :)

Going to see what affect turning off the auto-keystone setting makes.

Is there something you have to do to save the PerfectColor/PerfectTint settings?

Every time I turn the set back on those are back to default!

Can you set the default picture mode to Natural? It defaults to Bright every time I turn it on.

Is there a demo mode on that set that is currently configured to be on? I am not aware of one on the Mits.
If so, this will default the set back to the original OOB settings.

User menu settings should always be recalled, even if the set is powered off.

Hey Lee,
Finally figured it out. When I turned the set on I had to hit the Input button to select the input (even though its the only input active and it was reading that input for my Blu-Ray player). It seems to remember the settings now.

Do you get much variance from calibration to calibration on the same set? I did a reset (menu 123 Enter). And put the settings back in, had them written down, and Magenta is off from what it was before, probably have to drop the Hue down by another 3. Its getting down to a value of around 13...seems pretty low on the scale of 1 - 63.

Thanks
Brian

Anyone have the Smooth 120hz option turned on?

Do you get much variance from calibration to calibration on the same set? I did a reset (menu 123 Enter). And put the settings back in, had them written down, and Magenta is off from what it was before, probably have to drop the Hue down by another 3. Its getting down to a value of around 13...seems pretty low on the scale of 1 - 63.

Thanks
Brian

I have never had two Mits. match on the PC/PT settings. And yes, I have had sets where the values covered a wide range.
Another perfect reason why copying settings isn't a reliable option.

120hz on a DLP??

Be careful adjusting PC/PT with your Chroma 5. It's not very accurate measuring colors.
Concentrate on gray scale and use PC/PT sparingly. You could actually do more harm than good. Perfect color and perfect tint aren't designed all that great. The service menu CMS is a much better way to adjust saturation, hue and luminance on these sets. You'll need a spectro to adjust these properly, however.