Hello,
Today i will be calibrating my tv(Samsung LN46A850) using the Incredibles DVD as reference. My question is should i turn off all the tv features like digital noise reduction, dynamic contrast ratio, and backlight settings. My Vista Media Center(Radeon 4850) with Blue Ray drive will be my media hub but also have Directv all connected via HDMI. Please let me know what to turn off and leave on

Thanks

Hello,
Today i will be calibrating my tv(Samsung LN46A850) using the Incredibles DVD as reference. My question is should i turn off all the tv features like digital noise reduction, dynamic contrast ratio, and backlight settings. My Vista Media Center(Radeon 4850) with Blue Ray drive will be my media hub but also have Directv all connected via HDMI. Please let me know what to turn off and leave on

Thanks

Personally, I would turn off anything that is Dynamic when trying to adjust your settings in the User menus, especially contrast ratio, or automatic fleshtones.

Thanks what about backlight settings?

Today i will be calibrating my tv(Samsung LN46A850) using the Incredibles DVD as reference.

How is that a calibration? And why would you use an animated feature as a reference? Alignment/calibration requires proper test patterns.

Thanks what about backlight settings?

Backlight setting can affect the greyscale, so if you have measuring equipment you will want to check for this. However, you primarily want to use the backlight to set a pleasing output level after you have aligned your white point, in order to match the room environment. For brighter room, generally higher backlight setting is appropriate, for a darker room you don't need so bright a picture.

More input please i plan to do a simple calibration on my 850 also with the AVSHD software and want to know what i should have off or on to start with.

Another important question i was wondering is how long should i wait before attempting to do this calibration? should i wait atleast a week of veiwing before i start or straight out of the box?

Thanks!
LaS

More input please i plan to do a simple calibration on my 850 also with the AVSHD software and want to know what i should have off or on to start with.

Another important question i was wondering is how long should i wait before attempting to do this calibration? should i wait atleast a week of veiwing before i start or straight out of the box?

Thanks!
LaS

Put at least 100hrs on it.

No, do it immediately. Then do it again after some time has passed.

OK, Chris i figured that i was thinking to myself man am i really gonna wait that long before i want to change something lol

Now can someone tell me with the 850 "or just in general" exactly what certain options should i have turned off or on to start from basic settings to start calibrating.

AVSHD Software:

If anyone has used this program could you help me with the 2nd section that deals with "MISC. PATTERNS AND INSTRUCTIONS" it deals with grey scale ramp and steps plus the color steps.

1: is this section made for just viewing for inconsitency in grey scale levels or do i suppose to change any settings to optimize the grey?

2: my next question is about a "Blue Filter" supposably you use it to view the colors and compare.
But Do i really needs this or is it mandatory? I know it would be better if i did. but maybe i could wait till the next time i do it and thats when i hit 100 hours of use?

You may want to check the Owner's thread for this set.
This area of the forum is for actual display calibration.

You have a display that can be calibrated to perform very accurately. Hiring a Pro might be a wise choice. All of your questions could be answered and you'll receive a good deal of information about imaging science.

Wouldn't you want to use a movie with proper flesh tones to calibrate instead of an animated feature?

Wouldn't you want to use a movie with proper flesh tones to calibrate instead of an animated feature?

I believe he is referring to the THX optimizer on the disc, not the movie itself.

For more information on the advanced THX optimizer you need to go here:
THX Optimizer for The Incredibles DVD (http://www.thx.com/home/dvd/optimizer/incredibles/incrediblesOptiEng.html)

If you don't have a blue only mode, you will need to either purchase the THX blue glasses, or get yourself a copy of Digital Video Essentials, either in DVD or Blu-Ray format. In includes filters to assist in setting color and tint.

You may want to check the Owner's thread for this set.
This area of the forum is for actual display calibration

:rolleyes: Thats exactly why im here!

You have a display that can be calibrated to perform very accurately. Hiring a Pro might be a wise choice. All of your questions could be answered and you'll receive a good deal of information about imaging science

ISF calibrators are way to expensive and i personally think they ask to much for someting you can learn yourself. all the money i spent on the tv i plan to learn about it not have someone do it for me. thx for your advice but ill stick to finding help and learning myself :D

So who knows about the AVSHD software that can answer my question above?

:rolleyes: Thats exactly why im here!



ISF calibrators are way to expensive and i personally think they ask to much for someting you can learn yourself. all the money i spent on the tv i plan to learn about it not have someone do it for me. thx for your advice but ill stick to finding help and learning myself :D

So who knows about the AVSHD software that can answer my question above?

A good calibrator is going to have several thousand dollars invested in hardware and software. This is not something that can be replaced with any amount of time or experience.

Granted if you want to go pop for a chroma5 and a calman license then you can start to play, but the cost of that is greater than an ISF calibration. You can go as low as a i1 display2 and HCFR for $150 or so, but you won't be able to do the same job as a ISF tech because your probe will not be as accurate as theirs.

I'm not knocking you for wanting to do it yourself. But the reality is that doing your own calibration will either be MORE expensive or less accurate.

You can set brightness and contrast by eye.
You can set color and tint with a blue filter.

Beyond that you need a probe that can give you objective information to do any further calibration. So don't worry about the other patterns because you can't use them.

AVSHD Software:

If anyone has used this program could you help me with the 2nd section that deals with "MISC. PATTERNS AND INSTRUCTIONS" it deals with grey scale ramp and steps plus the color steps.

1: is this section made for just viewing for inconsitency in grey scale levels or do i suppose to change any settings to optimize the grey?

2: my next question is about a "Blue Filter" supposably you use it to view the colors and compare.
But Do i really needs this or is it mandatory? I know it would be better if i did. but maybe i could wait till the next time i do it and thats when i hit 100 hours of use?

2: no, the Samsung actually has a blue-only mode which is preferred to the filter. On most displays that don't have this feature, then you need the filter to isolate blue for colrobar adjustmetns.

Greetings

The age old question.

Cost of your time versus the cost of a calibration.

If the cost of your time is worth little ... then time to learn how it's done. Weeks ... months ... years. If you feel your time is worth more than what a professional will charge, then you go that route.

Regards

2: no, the Samsung actually has a blue-only mode which is preferred to the filter. On most displays that don't have this feature, then you need the filter to isolate blue for colrobar adjustmetns.

The only problem with setting up blue, is that we're expecting the color decoder to match the other colors with it, which is normally not the case. Usually one or both of the other primaries will be oversaturated.

This is another reason to have it professionally calibrated if you want the best results.

Understandably a calibrator would do a way better job then me and has the tools to do it and i dont plan to ever learn all that i just want to make sure the colors are best as i can get them and the contrast and brightness is too.
even the sharpness.

its just everytime i call a calibrator they want like 300 to 400 for each input. thats outrageuos. especially if i have 3 different things i want to plug in my tv. whcih is not my case since im using the CT100 speakers and can connect everything through it.

i also dont liek the fact that if i ever update the firmware or such i lose all those settings and theres goes all the money out the door.

is there really that much of a big difference if you do it yourself then having a professional do it? can you really see a big difference between the 2?

lastly, that suks that i just found out that the 850 has a blue mode i just spent 10 bucks on the THX shades :mad:

Understandably a calibrator would do a way better job then me and has the tools to do it and i dont plan to ever learn all that i just want to make sure the colors are best as i can get them and the contrast and brightness is too.
even the sharpness.

its just everytime i call a calibrator they want like 300 to 400 for each input. thats outrageuos. especially if i have 3 different things i want to plug in my tv. whcih is not my case since im using the CT100 speakers and can connect everything through it.

i also dont liek the fact that if i ever update the firmware or such i lose all those settings and theres goes all the money out the door.

is there really that much of a big difference if you do it yourself then having a professional do it? can you really see a big difference between the 2?

lastly, that suks that i just found out that the 850 has a blue mode i just spent 10 bucks on the THX shades :mad:

If all the components go through one input, that's only the $300-400 once.

If they are good quality calibrators they will give you all the settings so they can restore them.

If you are serious enough to consider spending $300 once, deffinetly look into purchasing a probe

Display2 LT $150
http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-EODLT-X-Rite-Eye-One-Display/dp/B000CR78CE
+
HCFR Free
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php

or

Calman w/ display2 $299
http://www.spectracal.com/i1Display-2.html


Then you can do a full calibration and get your feet wet. Then if you decide you are really into it, you could spend money you could grab an i1 pro.

Understandably a calibrator would do a way better job then me and has the tools to do it and i dont plan to ever learn all that i just want to make sure the colors are best as i can get them and the contrast and brightness is too.
even the sharpness.

its just everytime i call a calibrator they want like 300 to 400 for each input. thats outrageuos. especially if i have 3 different things i want to plug in my tv. whcih is not my case since im using the CT100 speakers and can connect everything through it.

i also dont liek the fact that if i ever update the firmware or such i lose all those settings and theres goes all the money out the door.

is there really that much of a big difference if you do it yourself then having a professional do it? can you really see a big difference between the 2?

lastly, that suks that i just found out that the 850 has a blue mode i just spent 10 bucks on the THX shades :mad:

Most Samungs have a WB spread mode that will carry your settings over to the other inputs. Unless the calibrator wants to further calibrate the input to a specific device instead of just to his signal generator, there should be no reason to charge you extra to 'spread' the settings, AFAIK.

As for just finding out about the blue-only mode, it IS important that you RTM first...

ok guys, I am using the Incredibles DVD as my calibrator and just wanted to know what to turn off and on before proceeding. I also do have the blue filter glasses.

Thanks

Greetings

Start in movie mode ... everything is shut off there to start with.

regards

Has anyone had a Samsung LN850 callibrated in Colorado using Listen Up (from Denver)? If so, what was your experience?