Wrote this one up b/c when I was trying to decide on getting shakers or not, how or where to mount, there wasn't a whole lot found. So maybe this might inspire, help, or trigger something for the next guy.

First thing I did after receiving the seats was to check out what room I had to work for mounting, quickly realized not much. Here is the underside of the 13175, very little room w/o being very creative. The only idea I kept coming back to for mounting the shakers under the seats was to make plate that would fit in-between the two bottom rails and mount the shaker on it in the center. For example,

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/IMG_1395.jpg

Every other rail or possible mounting area / surface expands, contracts, moves, etc when the seat reclines (no matter how far or little). Since these two rails are only ones under the seat that do not move it seemed like the best option. My big concern was would that mounting area allow for enough of the affect to transfer up to the seat and back since all those rails didn't have much contact with the overall seat. So I decided not to go that route and risk it not really being worth it or only having to start all over again.

Flipped the seats back up and decide would mount them where they would have the most contact and chance to transfer, right where the seat and back meet. Removing the backs expose this area. A 4.5 x 8 inch plate ended up being the perfect size to mount the shaker. The 4.5 will put you flush with the back edge so doest stick out and right up against the last row of spring / coils. I used 3/4" MDF left over from the wall mount.

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/1.jpg

Measured out the depth of what was able to be screwed into, center marked, split difference on the sides, 3 pilot holes, and counters so heads would not interfere with the shakers sitting flush.

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/2.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/3.jpg

Screwed down, now you can see why the 4.5" worked best, back is flush with edge and front is just before the coil row.

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/4.jpg

Also allowed it to sit level

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/5.jpg

Shakers centered and mounted

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/6.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/7.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/8.jpg

A quick side by side getting ready to wire up

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/9.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/10.jpg

3 shakers wired in series that will be powered by a Audio Source AMP100 amp, bridged 150x1, each shaker 50w.



http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/11.jpg

"sub" = the 3 shakers

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-5323690727015_2041_1429209

Wires tucked, finished, and all 3 together

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/12.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/13.jpg

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/kevinjs1234/shakers/14.jpg

The backs go right back on w/o any rubbing, stopping, or interference. Even when in the fullest recline position!

So how do I like them? Great question, still need to finish the stand up front. As soon as that is done all components can finally be put on and wired up. Overall room should be done by this weekend.

Looks very nice. you definitely put more thought in effort into yours. I just cut some scrap plywood, screwed everything together and wired it up.

Same effect, but yours looks cleaner than mine. ;)

One thing to keep in mind... I believe that base section slides forward a few inches when you recline... make sure the wires don't get hung up.

I'd say given the placement that they will really be butt-kickers

One thing to keep in mind... I believe that base section slides forward a few inches when you recline... make sure the wires don't get hung up.


Yes they do! After finishing them the 1st time the speaker wires just dropped straight down and were really close to getting grabbed. That's when I tacked them so both met in the middle and have about 10 inches of slack running under the bottoms so the middle bar will not grab them. I almost learned that one the hard way

I'd say given the placement that they will really be butt-kickers

:D sounds good!

Are those 13175s power or manual recline?

Are those 13175s power or manual recline?

Those are manual recline seats. If they were power recline you would see power supply and the gray actuator bar that moves the recline mechanism.

What would be the perfered way to wire up four of those? Could I still do it in a series like that?

It seems like everyone that has those really likes them. I may have to get on board.

Four should be two pairs in series connected in parallel

Four should be two pairs in series connected in parallel

Im no pro, but four 4ohms shakers in s/p would result in a 4ohm load.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/4sp-spkr.gif

So unless the amp that is being used is pretty high and is 2ohm stable (since when bridging the amp will "see" half of the load, 4ohm / sees 2ohm) I would say series all four.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/4s-spkr.gif

4 4ohms in series will be a 16ohm load, running bridged amp sees the 8ohm load.

Bridged @ 8ohm is the max ouput of the amp (for the AMP100 used here at least). So I series all to get the load high, amp see half, does max output.

If would have used s/p and gave it a 4ohm load it wouldnt even play since the 2ohm impedance is too low.

But again, if the amp being used is 2ohm stable when bridged, all prev details dont matter.

Right? No? :confused:

I bought the Clark synthesis transducers. Has anyone tried to mount this or any other transducer in a similar fashion to the 12003's? The backend platform just doesn't look very deep(not nearly as deep as the 13175s here) and it barely looks like enough space to mount a platform without extra bracket support.

Kevin, who said he (Shane) was going to bridge an amp? He may be using a butt-kicker amp that only has one output or a sub-woofer amp.

If he has a two channel amp couldn't he just hook two in series up to each output.

Kevin, who said he (Shane) was going to bridge an amp? He may be using a butt-kicker amp that only has one output or a sub-woofer amp.

If he has a two channel amp couldn't he just hook two in series up to each output.

Just assumed when he said Could I still do it in a series like that? .

Yep, could do 2 in series on each channel and would be a 8ohm per channel. Wiring would just really depend on whatever amp went with and its specs at the 4 and 8ohm loads

Using the AMP100 that I did and 4 shakers for example.

If doing 8ohm stereo will get 60wx2 (L/R). So 2 shakers per channel wired series would get 30w each.
LEFT http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/2s-spkr.gif RIGHThttp://www.colomar.com/Shavano/2s-spkr.gif

But if switch things up to mono (bridged) at a 8ohm load it will now do 160x1
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/4s-spkr.gif.
All four shakers is series will now get 40w each Vs 30w each in stereo. Pick up 10w more per shaker by switching it up. Not a :eek: difference but 40 more is 40 more. Might as well take it if the amp is gonna offer it

Just want to say thanks Kevin for the guide. Also bumping this up in case anyone just bought shakers for their berklines.

Kevin, thank you for your illustration, look nice!

I have these same chairs with electric recline. I was wondering why the Bass Shakers couldn't be installed to the vertical board on the back? It's right below where you installed the wood plates. Any feedback?

I have these same chairs with electric recline. I was wondering why the Bass Shakers couldn't be installed to the vertical board on the back? It's right below where you installed the wood plates. Any feedback?


I mounted mine almost exactly how the original poster did.

I didn't mount them vertically along that back brace since that is where the velcro strip is and it would cause a bulge in the leather flap that hangs down. It would also cause the seat to stick out further which could be a problem for people who have a riser/step behind the chair.

Overall, I love the placement of the shakers as presented in this post. It gives a good effect and was very simple to do. Lastly, you can't tell the shakers are there just by looking at the chair except for the wires coming out the bottom.