Was wondering if anybody could help me here...I have an Onkyo 906 connected to my Optoma HD73 via HDMI sub out.
I can get the error below 3 all the way up from 20ire using a Spyder2 Platinum, ColourHFCR and Get Gray. However, having spent a good hour flicking back and forth bewteen 30 and 80 ire, I go to run the greyscale and when the 10ire window comes up, it's green. Physically green.
I decided to carry on with the greyscale anyway and got excelent results - but there's a green tinge in every dark scene and it's really annoying. I've a feeling it's something to do with the gamma setting in the ISF night mode but only dabble in calibration and am not a professional.
I run Get Gray in a Toshiba XE1 HD DVD player BTW. I used an Onkyo 876 before and can't remember getting this problem.

Greetings

You will have to sacrifice the low end grayscale to avoid green blacks. That's life. :(

regards

I found some color errors on the Onkyos/Integras with the Reon chip. I found some serious color decoding errors, and after researching it it turns out even when set to put the HDMI straight through it was changing the colorspace. While I did not notice low end grayscale errors like you did, I would not be too surprised if they were there.
It's possible that they may have come out with a recent firmware update to fix the problem, and it's also possible that the problems only surface in certain systems.
I'd try bypassing the receiver and seeing if 10 ire still looks green.

Thanks for the input. I understand that the SpyderII Platinum is not the worlds best sensor so my results will not be that great - but I've never had this problem before - only since I introduced the 906 into the chain...which should answer Chad B's question about removing it.
I actually had a a Yamaha 3800 and an Onkyo 876 in there before the 906 and never had the problems with the green so the problem is defo with the 906 (I assume it is anyway...)

There seems to be a firmware upgrade for the Onkyo - v1.04. It's not available over here in the UK and Onkyo deny all knowledge of it here - I understand it cures one or two problems with the gamma. Would it be safe to download it into my UK sourced receiver?

Thanks for the input. I understand that the SpyderII Platinum is not the worlds best sensor so my results will not be that great - but I've never had this problem before - only since I introduced the 906 into the chain...which should answer Chad B's question about removing it.
I actually had a a Yamaha 3800 and an Onkyo 876 in there before the 906 and never had the problems with the green so the problem is defo with the 906 (I assume it is anyway...)

There seems to be a firmware upgrade for the Onkyo - v1.04. It's not available over here in the UK and Onkyo deny all knowledge of it here - I understand it cures one or two problems with the gamma. Would it be safe to download it into my UK sourced receiver?

The 1.04 for the 906/876 fixes one problem with the gamma adjustments
but I think there is anoher one with using HDMI Full RGB, the gamma
control behaves almost like a hue control... I use HDMI component
so I haven't researched that too much.
The 875/905 models apparently had problems with colourspaces.
In the 2008 models thay have apparently fixed them and even
snuck in an option för conversion and a "Blue Mode Only":
ITU Conversion (SD -> HD)
Press down "HDMI Out" and "RT/PTY/TP" button (DIMMER for US model) to bring up
ITU Conversion (SD -> HD) On
Press "RT/PTY/TP" to toggle On/Off.

Blue Mode (Blue Only Filter):
If Blue Mode is On, R and G of output signal become 0.
(To turn Blue Mode On/Off:
From the front panel- push and hold "HDMI OUT" then push "MEMORY".)

And I have used the firmwares from http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297
with success on my European 876.

Here is a bonus feature:
How to modify the ISF Day/Night Presets:
1. Menu, Source Setup, then Picture Adjust:
2. Go down to ISF Mode and change to either Day or Night:
3. Hold down Display on the remote for 6-7 seconds:
ISF Day and Night will now have all the same options as Custom and can be used as Presets,
leaving the menu the options will be hidden again automatically.

Thanks for that Rickard - much appreciated. I'm using HDMI component as well as switching to RGB makes the whole screen green on my PJ. I'm more that positive that this is a problem with the 906 - I have a Panasonic 42PX70 connected HDMI main out and am getting the green window at ire10. The window at ire0 is invisible - I assume because it's black...?

What is ITU conversion and what's the point of a blue mode? I'd read about them and had a play - noticed no difference with the ITU mode - and the blue mode turned everything blue!!:D

Is the Optoma a projector or panel display? If it is a projector, the Spyder is really marginal - bad results because there's a projection lamp and bad results because the sensor just isn't optimized for measuring projectors.

I think the next step here is fairly obvious. Put the disc player directly into the display, bypassing the 906 and see if you get the same result or something different. If you get the same result, the player or display is responsible. If you get a different result, the 906 is doing something it shouldn't be doing. The player or the 906 may have some setting that's causing the problem - even if it is a setting you didn't change - the factory default may cause the player or 906 to do something unexpected to the color.

If you get the same result without the 906 in the path, then you can try a different disc player to see if the results are different.

I agree with you about color tints at 10% or lower, they can be very distracting and very detectable. It seems to be harder to detect a blue error in the shadows than red or green so if you decide you have to compromise your grayscale adjustments, you can see if there's some combination of settings that removes the green at the bottom end without causing too bad of a problem higher up the luminance scale... this is one of the parts of the art of video display calibration - you have a good result here, but a visible error there, what do you do to make the visible error decrease or go away without making other visible errors elsewhere. There's no easy answer - it takes experience and experimentation.

But the first order of business should be to absolutely confirm which component is making the change you are seeing. Once you know which component it is for sure... without guessing... you will know where to look for a solution. Either in settings or replacement.

Is the Optoma a projector or panel display? If it is a projector, the Spyder is really marginal - bad results because there's a projection lamp and bad results because the sensor just isn't optimized for measuring projectors.

I think the next step here is fairly obvious. Put the disc player directly into the display, bypassing the 906 and see if you get the same result or something different. If you get the same result, the player or display is responsible. If you get a different result, the 906 is doing something it shouldn't be doing. The player or the 906 may have some setting that's causing the problem - even if it is a setting you didn't change - the factory default may cause the player or 906 to do something unexpected to the color.

If you get the same result without the 906 in the path, then you can try a different disc player to see if the results are different.

I agree with you about color tints at 10% or lower, they can be very distracting and very detectable. It seems to be harder to detect a blue error in the shadows than red or green so if you decide you have to compromise your grayscale adjustments, you can see if there's some combination of settings that removes the green at the bottom end without causing too bad of a problem higher up the luminance scale... this is one of the parts of the art of video display calibration - you have a good result here, but a visible error there, what do you do to make the visible error decrease or go away without making other visible errors elsewhere. There's no easy answer - it takes experience and experimentation.

But the first order of business should be to absolutely confirm which component is making the change you are seeing. Once you know which component it is for sure... without guessing... you will know where to look for a solution. Either in settings or replacement.
First up - thanks for the reply...the Optoma is a projector. DLP with the DC2 panel.
The reason I'm certain it's the 906 causing the problems is because it's only been in the chain a week...I had a Yamaha RX-V3800 in there before and the problem wasn't there. I had the PJ calibrated nicely with that - but no gamma adjustment.
The 906 brings with it the luxury (or pain!) of being able to calibrate each input individually - when I attempted to this, the error came in. I previously reset the PJ's controls all to 0 (mid point - brightness, contrast, saturation and the RGB gain & Bias) as I had used these to calibrate the PJ previously as the Yamaha didn't have the controls built in. Again - I stress there was no such problem when I used the controls in the PJ. However, a perfect 2.2 on the gamma setting was wishful thinking without the aid of gamma correction controls.
I need to go to work now but I'll post my settings tomorrow as the errors are all below 3 from ire20 and up.

I'll post my settings tomorrow as the errors are all below 3 from ire20 and up.

That may be what the Spyder says the errors are, but because you are using it with a projection lamp (been there, done that), the results you are getting could easily be off 2X-5X.

You may want to consider restoring the calibrated settings in the projector - that should allow you to use small or no adjustments in the 906 which may (or not) make the overall appearance better.

By resetting the projector to default settings, you are requiring much larger changes to settings in the 906.