Planning my 52" lcd wall mount, to simplify things and to limit the number of large holes in the wall I was planning to use large desk "grommets" at the top and bottom and routing all the cables including the LCD power cable together, I know this is not "code" as far as the power cable, but do you see any other problem this may create, Ive been told the power cable should not be close to any other cables IE: Hdmi,Component Video,RGB, Speaker Wire etc. Is this always a problem or just in certain cases, all the wall cables to the LCD are Monoprice, some thick stuff !

Planning my 52" lcd wall mount, to simplify things and to limit the number of large holes in the wall I was planning to use large desk "grommets" at the top and bottom and routing all the cables including the LCD power cable together, I know this is not "code" as far as the power cable, but do you see any other problem this may create, Ive been told the power cable should not be close to any other cables IE: Hdmi,Component Video,RGB, Speaker Wire etc. Is this always a problem or just in certain cases, all the wall cables to the LCD are Monoprice, some thick stuff !

I have my cables ran together through the wall, roughly 3', like you are planning through hooded wall plates. I have not noticed any issues in regards to interference. You should be fine. These are the wall plates I used http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?pageaction=viewcats&category=508

For power to the tv, I am sure someone will mention this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2

I did not know about these when I ran my tv power cord in the wall, roughly 3'. I know this is not code, but I figure that the cord will outlast the Sony Bravia so I really do not worry about it.

I didn't want to get involved with running cables/power behind the wall, or adding another outlet behind the TV using a power bridge, so I just purchased an Omnimount Wall Furniture shelf unit that mounts directly below the TV and hides the cables and cords behind a panel:

http://omnimount.com/consumer/product.aspx?ProductId=b497a83e-1e3c-4945-b3b8-e52bf5e2d61f&CurrentId=3.2

I purchased the one shelf unit, but they also have a larger, two shelf unit. I purchased it on Amazon. There are some neat customer photos of the two shelf unit there as well:

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-MWFS-Adjustable-System-Management/dp/B000JYH96U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1238595298&sr=8-2

Anyway, the spec sheet says "Ample cable management room makes it easy to keep power and A/V cords seperate and concealed". So it leads me to believe that yes, they should be kept apart.

I plan to install it over the wall outlet and either switch out the outlet with an in-wall surge protector or hide a slim, low profile surge protector behind the panel.

Just waiting for the monoprice wall mount bracket to arrive before we install it.

...I know this is not "code" as far as the power cable, but do you see any other problem this may create, Ive been told the power cable should not be close to any other cables IE: Hdmi,Component Video,RGB, Speaker Wire etc. Is this always a problem or just in certain cases, all the wall cables to the LCD are Monoprice, some thick stuff !

You're right, it's not up to code. Also, never, ever run power cable next to audio or video...you're asking for noise inductance issues.

Frank

You're right, it's not up to code. Also, never, ever run power cable next to audio or video...you're asking for noise inductance issues.

Frank

I have never noticed any interference, but I have a shielded HDMI cable running next to the cord. And really, what is HDMI? Just a bunch of 1's and 0's, not allot to interfere with. Audio cables, maybe, but I kinda doubt it as long as you have decent cables and good electrical in the walls, which I have.

No hums or such, guess I am lucky.

Over short runs, you probably won't induce any noise into the signal, especially since the signal is differential. In any case, the important thing about 1s and 0s is that they are really represented by voltages that cannot change instantly (in fact the faster they change, the more RF interference they create). So if you look at the signal with a scope you will notice that it is not 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 1 1, but rather it is 0.1 0.2 0.5 0.9 0.85 0.9 0.95 0.3. The electronics have to look at those values and try to determine where to "sample" the signal and from that determine if it is a binary 1 or 0. For example the voltages on pci express are 0.8 and 1.2V. There are some signal processing tricks that are used to find the "data eye".

WoW ! Thanks for all the Great replys, some of this stuff is way over my head,but everytime I'm on this forum I learn more and more ! I love it ! For now I think I'll just try the 3" groment thing, I can do this with a hole saw & save the pieces if I ever need to patch later. The Samsung LN52A550 comes tuesday from FRYS,and what a great price 1299.00 delivered I cant wait ! My first lcd !I'll let you all now how it turned out, I wonder if i'll miss my old rear projector ;-)

Whatever you do, try to make the hole no larger than a 1G box. That way you can always put a low voltage flange in place and have it look nice. BTW, I just noticed you are in the ATX. I am in Great Hills.

WoW ! Thanks for all the Great replys, some of this stuff is way over my head,but everytime I'm on this forum I learn more and more ! I love it ! For now I think I'll just try the 3" groment thing, I can do this with a hole saw & save the pieces if I ever need to patch later. The Samsung LN52A550 comes tuesday from FRYS,and what a great price 1299.00 delivered I cant wait ! My first lcd !I'll let you all now how it turned out, I wonder if i'll miss my old rear projector ;-)

Randy: If you wish to run the power cable in wall and still meet code, you might take a look at this Powerbridge Solution (http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/aboutpowerbridge.html) kit.

This is what I used, and it was a high quality component that meets code AND allows you to powercondition/surge suppress the line to the television as well.

There is also a Powerbridge kit that includes an associated gang box to run your low voltage cables (HDMI, etc.) through.

Monoprice also offers their version of the Powerbridge kit (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2) for less money, but I didn't like the direction their gangplate hoods face.

Also, folks on AVSForum have posted DIY Powerbridge kit instructions, which you can find via search.

I ended up using a Powerbridge kit to run the power, and about 12 inches away, I installed a recessed double gang plate behind the television and one near the floor. These are where my low voltage cables come through.

Now, since I have a Sanus articulating mount--the television really does appear to be floating in space, with nary a visible connection to it.

Hope this helps!