Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter. It feels so weird, I was reading up SO much on the panny's, and all that information's pretty much useless now that I surprised myself and sprang for an Elite 111FD. My budget went from being 1k originally (bought then returned a Sony 32'' XBR6), to 1200 (strongly looking into an S1 panny or 85u).. to 1400 (strongly looking into an 800u or Samsung 650 LCD).. to 1800 (strongly debating between a 5010 and an 850u).. until I just said screw it and went all out for an Elite. Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

Well sorry for that pseudo-sappy story, but to get back on topic, my main question was if an average village tech/TV idiot like myself could properly calibrate the Elite to make it look professionally calibrated? I'm already SO far in the hole when it comes to $$, I can't afford an ISF calibration for quite a while. I've heard people use some programs like controlcal and whatever else, but if I opt not to get into the service menu and strictly stick to DNice's settings, will it be far off from professional calibration?

Sorry for random ramble, it's late and I'm tired, so sue me :P.

There's a reason why you said screw it and went with your gut. The little man inside of you decided that you can't put a price on picture quality if you can afford it. I'm not exactly rolling in dough myself and I felt the same way after dropping the same amount you paid. Now that I've had my 111 for a few weeks I'm SO glad that I didn't wait any longer and I have no regrets.

No need for a professional calibration right away if money is tight. "Pure" mode out of the box is outstanding and you can tweak to your liking.

Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter. It feels so weird, I was reading up SO much on the panny's, and all that information's pretty much useless now that I surprised myself and sprang for an Elite 111FD. My budget went from being 1k originally (bought then returned a Sony 32'' XBR6), to 1200 (strongly looking into an S1 panny or 85u).. to 1400 (strongly looking into an 800u or Samsung 650 LCD).. to 1800 (strongly debating between a 5010 and an 850u).. until I just said screw it and went all out for an Elite. Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

Well sorry for that pseudo-sappy story, but to get back on topic, my main question was if an average village tech/TV idiot like myself could properly calibrate the Elite to make it look professionally calibrated? I'm already SO far in the hole when it comes to $$, I can't afford an ISF calibration for quite a while. I've heard people use some programs like controlcal and whatever else, but if I opt not to get into the service menu and strictly stick to DNice's settings, will it be far off from professional calibration?

Sorry for random ramble, it's late and I'm tired, so sue me :P.



To answer your question, no you cannot do an actual calibration without going into the service menu and buying specialized calibration meters/software. This would cost a good deal more than a professional calibration. What you can do is follow D-Nice's break-in procedure to the T and possibly spending another $40. plus a serial cable to use ControlCal. This will all get you pretty darn close to a real calibration. Don't fret about splurging on the 111FD. I have the same display and it's gorgeous.

You can do a pretty good self calibration with Avia II. I have both Avia II and DVE Blu-ray and Avia is definitely easier to use for beginners and gives good results...as good as DVE imo. (settings come out practically the same)

edit- Avia II may be available in Blu-ray by now also

Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter. It feels so weird, I was reading up SO much on the panny's, and all that information's pretty much useless now that I surprised myself and sprang for an Elite 111FD. My budget went from being 1k originally (bought then returned a Sony 32'' XBR6), to 1200 (strongly looking into an S1 panny or 85u).. to 1400 (strongly looking into an 800u or Samsung 650 LCD).. to 1800 (strongly debating between a 5010 and an 850u).. until I just said screw it and went all out for an Elite. Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

Well sorry for that pseudo-sappy story, but to get back on topic, my main question was if an average village tech/TV idiot like myself could properly calibrate the Elite to make it look professionally calibrated? I'm already SO far in the hole when it comes to $$, I can't afford an ISF calibration for quite a while. I've heard people use some programs like controlcal and whatever else, but if I opt not to get into the service menu and strictly stick to DNice's settings, will it be far off from professional calibration?

Sorry for random ramble, it's late and I'm tired, so sue me :P.

Wow, interesting decision you've made there. First, you're a med student and are already taking a gigantic student loan. Second, being a med student I assume you're pretty busy and won't have too much time to watch TV. And third, if you think you're busy now, wait till residency starts.

Wow, interesting decision you've made there. First, you're a med student and are already taking a gigantic student loan. Second, being a med student I assume you're pretty busy and won't have too much time to watch TV. And third, if you think you're busy now, wait till residency starts.

Even if I only had time to watch 1 movie every week, I'd still want to do it on a Kuro :D

A. ContralCal does not go into the service menu
B. If you followed D's break in to a "T", you can use his ISF settings with ControlCal
C. I'll go out on a limb here, and say that it may be a while before something trumps the well rounded PQ of the Elite

^^^What he said. Especially letter C. :cool:

And third, if you think you're busy now, wait till residency starts.

Bleh, Thanks for reminding me how smart my purchase actually was! :P But I guess I could always watch Bates Physical Exam videos on it right? :rolleyes:

So in other words, I should opt for ControlCal + DNice's settings? Since I don't have the cables, I guess it would cost me $65.. which isn't a huge deal I guess but I'm really looking to making my the image 'pop' a lot more and look brighter. Will ControlCAL get those things done, or will I just have to wait for an ISF calibration?

Also, how good are the best buy ISF calibrators? When I was leaving with my TV, they told me that it's 300 bucks and would take about 2 hours. Does that sound about right? There's only one known ISF calibrator listed on these forums who may be able to do it in Michigan. :-\

So in other words, I should opt for ControlCal + DNice's settings? Since I don't have the cables, I guess it would cost me $65.. which isn't a huge deal I guess but I'm really looking to making my the image 'pop' a lot more and look brighter. Will ControlCAL get those things done, or will I just have to wait for an ISF calibration?

Also, how good are the best buy ISF calibrators? When I was leaving with my TV, they told me that it's 300 bucks and would take about 2 hours. Does that sound about right? There's only one known ISF calibrator listed on these forums who may be able to do it in Michigan. :-\

I wouldn't let a Best Buy calibrator near my display. I'm sure they have a few good ones here and there but it's important to ensure you use someone that is very good, and you will have no idea if you get that... or someone that just started out.

Also, I'm not sure you really want an ISF calibration. These calibrations are intended to get your display to line up with a standard. The standard is not something that tends to make your image "pop a lot more and look brighter".

If it's brightness and "pop" you want then it's quite possible you might enjoy an LCD more than your Kuro.

$200? Cheaper then my calibration, but I used a recommended guy who does it locally in St Louis.

What year in school? Will get worse if just in early med years. My brother-in law and I both graduated in the 80s. When we were both asked if we had no choice but to go back and repeat our first year of med school and our first year of residency, or take our chances in jumping off a cliff, we took the cliff :)

I wouldn't let a Best Buy calibrator near my display. I'm sure they have a few good ones here and there but it's important to ensure you use someone that is very good, and you will have no idea if you get that... or someone that just started out.

Also, I'm not sure you really want an ISF calibration. These calibrations are intended to get your display to line up with a standard. The standard is not something that tends to make your image "pop a lot more and look brighter".

If it's brightness and "pop" you want then it's quite possible you might enjoy an LCD more than your Kuro.

Haven't played around with my set yet, just been running break-in images for now. Doesn't the Kuro have a smoothing mode that's similar to an LCD's automotion?

$200? Cheaper then my calibration, but I used a recommended guy who does it locally in St Louis.

What year in school? Will get worse if just in early med years. My brother-in law and I both graduated in the 80s. When we were both asked if we had no choice but to go back and repeat our first year of med school and our first year of residency, or take our chances in jumping off a cliff, we took the cliff :)

3rd year, starting in 2 weeks. Wish me luck!

Haven't played around with my set yet, just been running break-in images for now. Doesn't the Kuro have a smoothing mode that's similar to an LCD's automotion?


Yes but I'm not clear what that has to do with the discussion.

edit: if you're saying that I may enjoy an LCD-like image more, then wouldn't the smoothing mode make it poppier?

edit: if you're saying that I may enjoy an LCD-like image more, then wouldn't the smoothing mode make it poppier?

Typically people that like "pop" and bright images appreciate LCDs because often their colors are more vibrant (read, less realistic) and bright. It is for this reason that they thrive in high ambient light like a retail store showroom.

ISF calibrations tend to make the image more realistic, so you get more of a natural looking image as opposed to an artificially enhanced one. One way to look at it, a calibration should make the actor on screen look just like he would in real life, but not make the color of his clothing a bit more vibrant.

Just in general you should expect a calibration to give a bit more subdued look than some people like.

Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter. It feels so weird, I was reading up SO much on the panny's, and all that information's pretty much useless now that I surprised myself and sprang for an Elite 111FD. My budget went from being 1k originally (bought then returned a Sony 32'' XBR6), to 1200 (strongly looking into an S1 panny or 85u).. to 1400 (strongly looking into an 800u or Samsung 650 LCD).. to 1800 (strongly debating between a 5010 and an 850u).. until I just said screw it and went all out for an Elite. Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

Well sorry for that pseudo-sappy story, but to get back on topic, my main question was if an average village tech/TV idiot like myself could properly calibrate the Elite to make it look professionally calibrated? I'm already SO far in the hole when it comes to $$, I can't afford an ISF calibration for quite a while. I've heard people use some programs like controlcal and whatever else, but if I opt not to get into the service menu and strictly stick to DNice's settings, will it be far off from professional calibration?

Sorry for random ramble, it's late and I'm tired, so sue me :P.


Physician...heal thyself...why do you feel that you MUST have a calibration to be happy? You seem to be seeking some type of needed rationalization for spending more money than you wanted. You might just be happy with the existing picture. Many people OUTSIDE of this forum have led normal and happy lives without calibration.

You could get an EyeOne Display2 for your birthday or something - they're about $200 I understand (£110 here). I'd avoid the Spyders (bad rep) or second hand i1 unless you are confident on the integrity of the seller. I assume you already have a laptop.

Serial cable and serial adapter another $40, and control cal is $25.

You can use free HCFR software to calibrate the screen, and download AVS709 from here as pattern generator.

So its not cheap, but then you will be able to calibrate as you like, you will learn a lot, and you will be able to set it up however makes you happy. Its good to be able to tweak the picture - slavish adherence to the standard is ok, but depending on the viewing conditions you may find you prefer a slightly different gamma profile etc.

Bear in mind though, that calibrating is likely to be hours of your life, and often at night.....

The Pure mode or D-Nice settings after breakin will be pretty good (probably, assuming the 5% tolerances are genuine!!), but on a $3K screen, its nice to go the extra mile. Of course, value is relative, you have to decide whether you can justify it.

Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

That's overkill.

Typically people that like "pop" and bright images appreciate LCDs because often their colors are more vibrant (read, less realistic) and bright. It is for this reason that they thrive in high ambient light like a retail store showroom.

"Less realistic"-PDP talking points.

"Less realistic"-PDP talking points.

Auditor I tried to carefully describe my interpretation of his word "pop" so there would be no confusion. If he wants a more dynamic, brighter presentation then this is in fact less realistic, is it not?

Do the clothes you are currently wearing "POP"? An ISF calibration would seem to drive him away from his intended goal. I am trying to inform him that he needs to do some homework before he wastes his money.

Must you attack in every thread?

Auditor I tried to carefully describe my interpretation of his word "pop" so there would be no confusion. If he wants a more dynamic, brighter presentation then this is in fact less realistic, is it not?

Do the clothes you are currently wearing "POP"? An ISF calibration would seem to drive him away from his intended goal. I am trying to inform him that he needs to do some homework before he wastes his money.

Must you attack in every thread?

Yes, when I constanly find plasma advocates willfully and incorrectly trying to steer newbies away from LCD with condescending words like " Less realistic". I don't find that helpful at all. If a newbie is looking for "Pop" you should correctly advise him/her to consider LCD since you know that LCD has that advantage over plasma.

Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter.

How did you get a 111 for $3k? BB's site lists it at $4,499.98?

The price on their website does not reflect the price in-store at all.

to steer newbies away from LCD with truthful words like " Less realistic".

Fixed :cool:

Just came back from best buy, and nearly 3k lighter. It feels so weird, I was reading up SO much on the panny's, and all that information's pretty much useless now that I surprised myself and sprang for an Elite 111FD. My budget went from being 1k originally (bought then returned a Sony 32'' XBR6), to 1200 (strongly looking into an S1 panny or 85u).. to 1400 (strongly looking into an 800u or Samsung 650 LCD).. to 1800 (strongly debating between a 5010 and an 850u).. until I just said screw it and went all out for an Elite. Bleh, I don't know what's wrong with me, I don't watch regular cable, and being a med student I don't even have time to watch anything in general outside of weekends. Ugh.

Well sorry for that pseudo-sappy story, but to get back on topic, my main question was if an average village tech/TV idiot like myself could properly calibrate the Elite to make it look professionally calibrated? I'm already SO far in the hole when it comes to $$, I can't afford an ISF calibration for quite a while. I've heard people use some programs like controlcal and whatever else, but if I opt not to get into the service menu and strictly stick to DNice's settings, will it be far off from professional calibration?

Sorry for random ramble, it's late and I'm tired, so sue me :P.

As Fanaticalism posted above, Pioneer's ISFccc Interface is not the Service Menu, they are separate.

Here is some info that may help your decision:

Understanding the Pioneer 9G ISFccc Interface (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109)

ControlCAL Reviews & Testimonials (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97)

D-Nice ISFccc settings - How close to a Proper/Professional Calibration? (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204)


.

3rd year, starting in 2 weeks. Wish me luck!

3rd year is better than the first two years, and 4th year is usually pretty sweet, lots of electives. You might be able to watch a lot of TV then when you're not on interviews. I'd turn off your Kuro while studying for USMLE exams, though.

How did you get a 111 for $3k? BB's site lists it at $4,499.98?

My local BB sold me a 111FD for $2499 last Tuesday.