Can someone explain to me the difference between orbiter mode 1 and mode 2 on the Kuro's?

Mode 1 turns the orbiter on for everything but Dot-by-Dot display mode. Mode 2 turns the orbiter on for all display modes, including Dot-by-Dot.

And leave it on mode 2 no harm done

Mode 2 affects picture quality in Dot by Dot. My calibrator showed me this. Plus it sort of defeats the purpose of Dot by Dot. I use Mode 1 now.

Mode 2 affects picture quality in Dot by Dot. My calibrator showed me this. Plus it sort of defeats the purpose of Dot by Dot. I use Mode 1 now.

YES! I noticed this and thought my panel was defective. It shifts the entire image over and you get a few rows of vertical pixels on the right side of the panel that don't get used. I don't use dot by dot though anymore and just use full for the most part.

Are there any other differences other than working/not working with dot by dot? Do they use different algorithms?

I'm wondering if it's even necessary to use the orbiter settings at all? Can any harm be done not using it? :confused:

I'm wondering if it's even necessary to use the orbiter settings at all? Can any harm be done not using it? :confused:

It is possible you could get some avoidable image retention by not using the orbiter. It's function is to avoid IR, after all.

orbiter modes just help to make TIR less of an issue, no harm either way, on dot by dot ( 0 overscan) mode it doesnt affect picture quality, it does however move the picture

i dont see how moving the picture affects picture quality:confused: plus most users wont even tell , i have dot by dot with orbiter 2

I have no problems using it with movies, but some games have HUD's near the edges of the screen which get pushed out of visibility and it's pretty annoying.

I'm wondering if it's even necessary to use the orbiter settings at all? Can any harm be done not using it? :confused:

Pioneer Plasmas have a great record and reputation if you research this board for being resistant to IR and to the real issue for phospor based displays which is Burn-In (permanent IR).

On the other hand the rare times someone has posted about a Kuro having serious IR and possible burn-in it's usually been because the Orbiter was left off (Orbitor mode 1 with .By. mode is like Off). The only other time was with heavy use of 4:3 content and black sidebars.

The Orbiter in the worse case for real content affects the image fine detail in way that is barely perceptible if you can perceive it at all.

I think its a bit of overstatement to say that the oribitor effects PQ in any significant way. It's affect on normal content ranges from barely perceptible to imperceptible.

Keep in mind that just because you can see a minor effect on a calibration pattern does not mean it's generally visible in normal viewing of video content. In fact calibration patterns are often designed to show things that are not usually seen in normal content if seen at all.

I don't use dot by dot though anymore and just use full for the most part

You should be aware then that using FULL mode which provides overscan is also giving up some fine detail PQ. Though it's also only a slight difference IMO it's even more of a PQ sacrifice than use of the orbiter in .By. mode would be.
I would definitley use the orbiter for any content that may have a lot of static images (esp. video games). Any PQ effect is almost negligible but burn-in on a Plasma is close to a disaster. :(

+1

plus by going to dot by dot it does make everything sharper since the image is scale to normal rather then a bit strech

Can someone explain to me how the orbiter can prevent BI or IR? Let's say there's a station logo on my screen that's 100x100 pixels big. The orbiter would shift this logo around say 10 pixels in each direction. So the edge of logo wouldn't be burned in, but wouldn't the central parts (ie, most of it) be burned in?

I think what they really do is prevent the sharp delineation of the edge being burned into the screen, thus making any retention much less noticeable. By shifting the edge around, the pixels in the shifting range are equally exercised instead of the edge ones being always "on" and the ones just outside the edge being off, which would make the edge less noticeable, so you'd be less apt to notice burn-in or IR since the edges would be a gradual transition instead of a sharply contrasting difference.

I always am wondering what mode to be in too but my calibration showed me the opposite with dot by dot. Forgive me as it's been awhile but when on "Auto" a calibration pattern fuzzed the black & white lines together... not a major issue but they were a tad blurry / fuzzy. Then switched to dot by dot and the image was crystal clear. I was actually quite amazed and have used dot by dot whenever possible. I'm sure Auto & Full do different things.

I am going to have to try 'dot by dot' on DVDs, becasue I dont like it during tv watching, simply because of the odd and random lines on the edges of different channels. Alot of channels have that issue in dot by dot, so much so that I just leave it on Full1. I am using Orbiter1.

i didnt even know this existed lol, how do i go about changing it?

http://www.**********/135l883.jpg
http://www.**********/135l1040.jpg

you wont be able to do so on dvds are they are not 1080i or 1080p im not sure if upscaled counts give it a shot, actually nevermind if you use ur ps3 or 360 it at 1080p resolution so you can do this. also the reason why you see that line is because those broadcasters are not expecting that people can get underscan or no over scan certain tvs do so. noting wrong with this and i dont mind see it as i can see a sharper image! FTW

I am going to have to try 'dot by dot' on DVDs, becasue I dont like it during tv watching, simply because of the odd and random lines on the edges of different channels. Alot of channels have that issue in dot by dot, so much so that I just leave it on Full1. I am using Orbiter1.

hit tools and change auto or full to dot by dot, though it only works on 1080i/p content.

i didnt even know this existed lol, how do i go about changing it?

http://www.**********/135l883.jpg
http://www.**********/135l1040.jpg

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but in my experience, having the orbiter on Mode 2 doesn't simply move the image; it makes fine text thicker/blurrier.

If you hook up an HTPC and pay attention to the text, you see the text actually go from a very sharp, fine state to a blurrier, almost bold-like one---it's as if the OS is turning ClearType on and off by itself.

I am on the fence whether to leave the orbiter on due to this, but I think I'll probably end up playing it safe.