View Full Version : Just bought a PDP-5020FD...


psurob12
04-17-09, 12:51 AM
Well...after being set on the Samsung LN52A650 for almost a month...some last minute research and talking to some "gurus" has led me to purchase this model. That said, I have a few questions.


What kind of power solution should I look for to protect this TV, an Xbox360, HD DVR cable box, and very soon a PS3? Down the road I would also like to add a surround sound system.
What is a good process for performing the break-in? I just cant see myself letting it run non-stop for days on end.
I did not opt for Best Buy's $199 calibration. Was this a mistake? I was reading on here about DIY calibration with certain pre-determined settings, and using ControlCAL to take it a step further on my own. Obviously I would love to have a professional calibration done, but since I am just moving that doesnt seem like a wise use of funds at the moment.


Any help would be appreciated, along with any thoughts or advice for a n00b. :)

Kryptron
04-17-09, 01:01 AM
Well...after being set on the Samsung LN52A650 for almost a month...some last minute research and talking to some "gurus" has led me to purchase this model. That said, I have a few questions.


What kind of power solution should I look for to protect this TV, an Xbox360, HD DVR cable box, and very soon a PS3? Down the road I would also like to add a surround sound system.
What is a good process for performing the break-in? I just cant see myself letting it run non-stop for days on end.
I did not opt for Best Buy's $199 calibration. Was this a mistake? I was reading on here about DIY calibration with certain pre-determined settings, and using ControlCAL to take it a step further on my own. Obviously I would love to have a professional calibration done, but since I am just moving that doesn't seem like a wise use of funds at the moment.


Any help would be appreciated, along with any thoughts or advice for a n00b. :)

1. APC H15 for power protection and conditioning.

2. You can use the files posted here on a thumb drive you don't have to run it nonstop. If you watch something try to avoid black bars so use the "Zoom mode" to fill the screen for 4:3 and some wider content.

3. Personally i think you should look elsewhere for a Professionally certified ISF technician to calibrate your tv. Don't believe bestbuy trains their employees well enough IMO*. You can use some of the DIY calibration disc to get you more accurate settings then what your display comes with. But understand that there are some adjustments that can only be change within the service menu of the set and only a qualified person can make such adjustments.

If you do decide to get the set calibrated do it after the suggested break-in period so 150-200hrs*.

mastermaybe
04-17-09, 09:32 AM
Congratulations. I firmly believe you made, dollar-for-dollar (or otherwise, really ;)) the "best" HDTV purchase around.

As far as calibrating, I suggest you hit the Kuro 9g thread, run the break-in, and punch in D-Nice's settings. I think you'll be quite pleased with the results.

Very straightforward process, BTW.

Good luck sir,

James

mastermaybe
04-17-09, 09:34 AM
BTW, run the thing non-stop if you choose. I and hundreds (thousands?) of others have with no issues that I'm aware of.

You can always watch in the meantime here and there if you choose.

Jame

psurob12
04-17-09, 09:41 AM
1. APC H15 for power protection and conditioning.

2. You can use the files posted here on a thumb drive you don't have to run it nonstop. If you watch something try to avoid black bars so use the "Zoom mode" to fill the screen for 4:3 and some wider content.

3. Personally i think you should look elsewhere for a Professionally certified ISF technician to calibrate your tv. Don't believe bestbuy trains their employees well enough IMO*. You can use some of the DIY calibration disc to get you more accurate settings then what your display comes with. But understand that there are some adjustments that can only be change within the service menu of the set and only a qualified person can make such adjustments.

If you do decide to get the set calibrated do it after the suggested break-in period so 150-200hrs*.Would the APC H15 be sufficient to carry the load listed above?

psurob12
04-17-09, 09:41 AM
Congratulations. I firmly believe you made, dollar-for-dollar (or otherwise, really ;)) the "best" HDTV purchase around.

As far as calibrating, I suggest you hit the Kuro 9g thread, run the break-in, and punch in D-Nice's settings. I think you'll be quite pleased with the results.

Very straightforward process, BTW.

Good luck sir,

James

Thanks!

buylongterm
04-17-09, 09:56 AM
a BIG CONGRATS on your new purchase!!! You will be extremely happy!

jaball77
04-17-09, 10:07 AM
Well...after being set on the Samsung LN52A650 for almost a month...some last minute research and talking to some "gurus" has led me to purchase this model. That said, I have a few questions.


What is a good process for performing the break-in? I just cant see myself letting it run non-stop for days on end.


Any help would be appreciated, along with any thoughts or advice for a n00b. :)

I don't quite understand the whole "break in" thing. I'm not sure why it's any different than setting the tv up so it will never have black bars on the sides and watching it normally. You can either set it up to stretch 4:3 content to fill the entire screen, or you can set it to detect black bars on the side and replace them with gray bars... Seems to me like "break in" is one of those crazy OCD ideas that got traction somehow and is now accepted on this forum as fact.

HarrisonS
04-17-09, 10:31 AM
I don't quite understand the whole "break in" thing. I'm not sure why it's any different than setting the tv up so it will never have black bars on the sides and watching it normally. You can either set it up to stretch 4:3 content to fill the entire screen, or you can set it to detect black bars on the side and replace them with gray bars... Seems to me like "break in" is one of those crazy OCD ideas that got traction somehow and is now accepted on this forum as fact.

You are right about not needing a break-in DVD or specail "slides". Just watch TV normally. Apparently some people find those things to be more "convenient". The important thing to remember is that a brand new set is more sensitive to burn-in during the first 100 - 200 hours of use. You can just enjoy your set normally until you have logged at least 100 hours only just avoid anything that does not completely fill the screen, or that contains static images. This also means avoiding very widescreen movies (2.35:1) during this period because they leave black bars at the top and bottom. This is essentially what I did, and I never had any problems.

ab2ab
04-17-09, 10:37 AM
You are right about not needing a break-in DVD or specail "slides". Just watch TV normally. Apparently some people find those things to be more "convenient". The important thing to remember is that a brand new set is more sensitive to burn-in during the first 100 - 200 hours of use. You can just enjoy your set normally until you have logged at least 100 hours only just avoid anything that does not completely fill the screen, or that contains static images. This also means avoiding very widescreen movies (2.35:1) during this period because they leave black bars at the top and bottom. This is essentially what I did, and I never had any problems.

So after the correctly completing the first 200 break-in period, is it then safe to watch all the 4:3 and 2.35:1 AR movies I want without fear?

HarrisonS
04-17-09, 10:39 AM
...I did not opt for Best Buy's $199 calibration. Was this a mistake? I was reading on here about DIY calibration with certain pre-determined settings, and using ControlCAL to take it a step further on my own. Obviously I would love to have a professional calibration done, but since I am just moving that doesnt seem like a wise use of funds at the moment...



You were wise not to! Those clowns likely would have messed your set up. You are about as likely to find technically competent people working at BB as you are at McDonalds!

psurob12
04-17-09, 10:41 AM
What do you guys think of this as a power solution? The APC H15 is considerably more expensive...

http://computers.pricegrabber.com/upss/m/34313389/details/search=apc%20ups/st=product_tab/

iatacs19
04-17-09, 10:52 AM
What do you guys think of this as a power solution? The APC H15 is considerably more expensive...

http://computers.pricegrabber.com/upss/m/34313389/details/search=apc%20ups/st=product_tab/

Should be ok, but the cheaper APC units don't do true sine wave output which is what you want. A good quality surge protector would be a better choice.

HarrisonS
04-17-09, 10:55 AM
So after the correctly completing the first 200 break-in period, is it then safe to watch all the 4:3 and 2.35:1 AR movies I want without fear?

For 4:3 material, use the gray side bars. There is also an option that makes these sidebars vary in brightness with the average picture brightness. Also, make sure the "orbiter" is turned on at all times. This moves the picture around slightly and imperceptibly so that static images are not contrentrated in one place. It is easiest just to leave these options turned on at all times. 2:35:1 movies are all right as long as you avoid a steady diet of it. Also watch other material (TV programs, 1.85:1 movies, etc.) from time to time. With the slight overscan that these sets usually have, the 1.85:1 movies do fill the screen completely.

psurob12
04-17-09, 10:56 AM
Should be ok, but the cheaper APC units don't do true sine wave output which is what you want. A good quality surge protector would be a better choice.

Would you be able to provide some good examples?

iatacs19
04-17-09, 11:03 AM
Would you be able to provide some good examples?

I use this with my TV:

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SUA1500&total_watts=50

I am not so sure about surge protectors, but I assume the ones people recommended above are good.

Keep in mind that all this is only important if you are running from battery.

StinDaWg
04-17-09, 04:01 PM
So after the correctly completing the first 200 break-in period, is it then safe to watch all the 4:3 and 2.35:1 AR movies I want without fear?

I watched whatever I want, whenever I want from day 1. No break in, tons of black bars and wide screen movies. No problems. Do you realize that 99% of plasma owners have no idea what the AVSforum is and watch whatever they want to watch on their tvs from the day they get it? Do you hear reports of complaints from general folk about burn in problems on their new tvs? It simply doesn't happen anymore.

psurob12
04-17-09, 11:25 PM
Anyone else with input on a good power solution other than the APC H15? Or is that the unanimous preferred solution for power protection?

gtaylor0
04-18-09, 10:25 AM
I watched whatever I want, whenever I want from day 1. No break in, tons of black bars and wide screen movies. No problems. Do you realize that 99% of plasma owners have no idea what the AVSforum is and watch whatever they want to watch on their tvs from the day they get it? Do you hear reports of complaints from general folk about burn in problems on their new tvs? It simply doesn't happen anymore.

And, for me, no orbitor, and I have no issues at all.