Since there are several questions about using the Xacti FH1 with iMovie in the main Xacti thread, I thought I'd start a new thread to discuss a workflow for using this camera in iMovie '09 on Macintosh computers. First, let me say that this works very well if you are patient with the huge files and some sluggishness of the program considering the data load it is having to manage. This is my personal workflow and I will try to explain why I do each of these steps.

1. Set your camera for Full-HR mode which is 1920x1080 60fps. I ALWAYS record in the maximum possible quality as that is the whole point of this camera. Anyone wanting to film at 30 Hz or with interlaced recording should buy another camera due to limitations with this one (chief among them being weak image stabilization and the quirky zoom discussed below).

2. Turn off digital zoom. Digital zooms reduce quality of the recorded image.

3. Be very careful about recording footage at the high end of the optical zoom range. Recording quality is poor at the high end of the optical range for a simple reason: Sanyo has developed this nifty technology called "16x advanced zoom" which is detailed on this page
http://sanyo.com/xacti/english/products/vpc_fh1/index.html
Sanyo seems to be high on it, but trust me, this is a disaster. Any footage recorded at the high end of the optical zoom range will be subjected to this non-defeatable electronic trick that increases zoom, and image quality will suffer. I demonstrated this clearly in my recent recording of a play where I filmed some material at intermediate zoom and others a the high extreme of the optical zoom, and the latter is quite "fuzzy". It looks kindof like it is out of focus, but that's not really it. It really is just "digitally altered" which looks poor compared to the intermediate zoomed material.

4. Film your footage. Be sure to plan to stop the recording about every 20 minutes and then restart it, because if you don't, and you are recording a continous event like a play, then as soon as the file size gets to about 4GB, the camera will close the file and start writing a new file to card (this is because the format used for the SDHC card is FAT-32, and 4 Gig is the largest possible file that can be written to this disk format). This will introduce a pause into your recorded footage. I'm of the view it is better to introduce the pause yourself at a good point (such as when the lights go down between acts) rather than have the camera do it at an inconvenient time (such as in the midst of a dialog).

5. Use Xacti Library to back up all your raw footage (films and photos) before doing anything else. I cannot overemphasize this step. I was AMAZED by the Xacti Library feature. In a nutshell you can connect a USB 2.0 hard drive directly to the camera and then download all your footage to the hard drive. This works flawlessly, and now your footage is all backed up. You can even play the movies off the hard drive through your camera. But the main point of it is to ensure that you have a full backup of your footage before playing with the card and ultimately reformatting the SDHC card (I use a 16 GB card for 1.5 hours recording time at Full-HR quality).

6. Now you are ready to connect either the camera itself or the card via a card-reader to your Mac. It will launch iPhoto first if you took any still photos and import those normally. Then you manually launch iMovie '09 and it will prompt you to import your footage. This is where I ran into my first hiccup... iMovie did not find all the footage on my card and did not import everything! I kept trying to find a scene in the play I had recorded and could not find it. I then verified that it had in fact not been captured by iMovie, AFTER I had already erased my SDHC card! This is when I was very grateful for my Xacti Library Hard Drive! I simply connected my hard drive, manually told the program to import movie, and navigated to the folder containing all my recordings and it imported them fine.

7. Once you have imported all your footage into an iMovie event, you can then edit your movie fine. Note that iMovie will not transcode these files since it thinks these are in Quicktime format. Note that while these files are MP4 files, the container is wrong and so it will be sluggish and choppy to edit them. I suppose one could use Quicktime to convert them all to Apple Intermediate Codec, but I'm not sure if this would preserve the 60fps frame rate so I haven't tried this. You can edit the files natively (and I'm using the slowest Mac you can get [a 2GHz Mac Mini]) they are just sluggish so you need to be patient.

8. Trim your clips, add music, transitions, whatever as you normally would in iMovie.

9. Thus far, iMovie has retained your source files in all their pristine, untouched 60fps glory...

10. The most important part of the process is getting the final movie out of iMovie without destroying the image quality of this camera or the whole point of buying it, namely the 60fps frame rate. To do this, select Share, Export using Quicktime, and then select Options, Video Settings. On this page, specify the following parameters:

Compression type: H.264
Frame rate: 59.94
Key frames: every 24
Frame reordering: Unchecked
Data rate: Restrict to 24000
Compressor: Faster encode (single pass)

Under Options, Video Size select dimensions HD 1920x1080 16:9, leave preserve aspect ratio and deinterlace source video unchecked.

I leave filter off, and sound settings at their defaults.

11. Now, depending on the length of the movie you plan to render and the speed of your Mac, you may either need to go out for a meal or go on a weekend trip somewhere! When you get back, you will have a Quicktime file (MOV extension) that is 1980x1080p, 60fps. This file will also likely be difficult for your computer to play, but now you can easily convert it to other formats using various video conversion programs. One of the nicest playback options is to use the PS3; this beast can easily handle the data-rate, but it does require conversion to the correct container. I use Red Kawa's PS3 Video 9 program on the PC to generate perfect 60fps files that the PS3 can play back flawlessly. My monitor is capable of displaying a 1080p/60 source file natively so this looks incredible. My wife says my home movie made according to this work flow looked better than prime time high definition programming... a rather nice endorsement.

Have fun!

Nice tips. With regards to # 4,


...
4. Film your footage. Be sure to plan to stop the recording about every 20 minutes and then restart it, because if you don't, and you are recording a continous event like a play, then as soon as the file size gets to about 4GB, the camera will close the file and start writing a new file to card (this is because the format used for the SDHC card is FAT-32, and 4 Gig is the largest possible file that can be written to this disk format). This will introduce a pause into your recorded footage. I'm of the view it is better to introduce the pause yourself at a good point (such as when the lights go down between acts) rather than have the camera do it at an inconvenient time (such as in the midst of a dialog).


Can you convert a 16GB SDHC card to NTFS format so that you won't have this pause in recording? And just wondering, how much time do you lose if you run into this issue?

Thank you for posting your efforts and success. I also use a mac mini. The wait is not as bad as some make it out to be, but I'm not a power user.. The happy coincidence that avoids transcoding is just another nod to Sanyo.

Nice tips. With regards to # 4,



Can you convert a 16GB SDHC card to NTFS format so that you won't have this pause in recording? And just wondering, how much time do you lose if you run into this issue?

That's a good question. I assume you mean format the card as NTFS outside the camera using a card reader, then try to use it in the camera. I have not tried this but am 99.9999% certain that it would not work. The problem is that the camera needs FAT-32 file system in order to know how to write the files. I wish the camera makers would adopt a modern file system to avoid this issue.

i have seen complaints on other camcorder threads about frames being lost when recording limits are reached, but it's typically solved by using different software when editing/encoding/joining the clips.

That's a good question. I assume you mean format the card as NTFS outside the camera using a card reader, then try to use it in the camera. I have not tried this but am 99.9999% certain that it would not work. The problem is that the camera needs FAT-32 file system in order to know how to write the files. I wish the camera makers would adopt a modern file system to avoid this issue.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, that's what I meant and it is too bad that it won't work (most likely). In your experiences, when you piece the two clips together that have gone over the ~4GB limit, do you see any pauses or any imagery lost?

I printed your post and took it in my holiday. unfortunatly I tried on my own first and after having "everything" in imovie I deleted the clips on my cam...to find out later what you described. terrible!!!

So I copy them on my computers drive first and import from the folder.worked.

I got a macbook pro from last year(lattest from last generation).
Editing the clips is as described by you terrible. what are the options?
I dont have quicktime pro.
would final cut express be better?

why you use "export using quicktime" under sharing and not just export film?
I still don't know the difference.

Valentino:

The sluggish performance of your computer while trying to edit these files is due to the very high data rate of these native files (24mbps) and the fact that h.264 is a highly compressed format with a full frame appearing only infrequently in the video stream; remember that most information in an h.264 file is difference data between the index frames, while your video editing program can only display and show you the index frames. The result is "choppy" performance. This is why iMovie converts AVCHD camcorder footage and HDV footage to Apple Intermediate Codec before importing these formats into iMovie; with AIC, you have each frame rendered so assuming you have a powerful enough computer, you can edit smoothly. Now if you wanted, you could use iMovie to export your Sanyo files as AIC files, then reimport these AIC files to edit them, but this takes a lot of time, and a huge amount of disk space, and so is not worth the trouble.

As to your second question about why I use export using quicktime, the answer is that this is the only way to create somewhat customized output settings; the stock options in iMovie are very limited.

rdewey,
great find!! This is probably the only way to edit these files with preserving the 1080p 60fps file. Unfortunately, I am a PC. I'd like to be a Mac, but maybe when times are better. So far I have not been able to find anything that can preserve the 1080p 60fps after editting in the Windows world.

As for the 4gb limitation....I remember we had the same issue when playing movies with my xbox 360 on an external hard drive. Ironically,we resolved that by formatting our external hard drive with the hfs+ filesystem via Macdrive for windows. I'm assuming that is possible with Macs. Once that was done, I was able to store movies without the 4GB limitation on the xbox360. I'm not saying it will work, but it's worth a shot. I no longer have the Macdrive software as the trial ran out so I cant test myself.

Can you try formatting to this HFS+ filesystem and see if the Sanyo FH1 will read and write to it? If so, see if you can overcome the 4GB limit.

Thanks in advance....

Audball:

This is a creative suggestion, and since I have a mac, it would be a trivial task to format my memory card with a mac file system and then see if the camera will recognize it. My only reservation is that while it is easy to take a FAT-32 or NTFS formatted disk and format it with a mac file system, I have sometimes had trouble going the other direction. I would hate to risk ruining one of my new 16GB flash cards on an operation that is highly likely to fail.

Let me see if I have some old, smaller cards lying around that I would be willing to sacrifice for this experiment...

I bought the FH1 last week. Today I find out that I can get the Canon HG10 for around the same price.

I realize that the HG10 does not do 60fps. Has anyone compared this camcorder to the HG10 as far as video quality ?

We are traveling to Alaska in two weeks. Using a tripod all the time will not be an option. I am afraid the lack of stabilization on the FH1 will be a huge handicap.

Any thoughts ?

I am afraid the lack of stabilization on the FH1 will be a huge handicap.

Any thoughts ?

Since you have already talked yourself into crappy video, nothing will help.

But if you believe that you shoot the video, instead of the video shooting you, some small adjustments could help.
Want to control shake? Go to Wallyworld and buy that assortment of bungee cords-in-a-can. They are different lengths, and
you can find one of them to hook your pinky to your belt. Hold your camera while tensioning the cord with your pinky, and the elastic
will reduce the shake of your hands. Don't like bungee? Try an over sized rubberband from the school-supply section.

Tripod inconvenient? Try a compact monopod-adding a little heft to the camera also minimizes shake. What else helps, is a two-handed grip such as what you would get with a right-angle bracket sold at best buy (to adapt video lights for camcorders without a hot-shoe).
The two-handed grip, allows both hands to help each other stabilize.

These are inexpensive, and quick to try.

umenon:

If you need high quality video and not too expensive with excellent stabilization, see this thread. I am very happy with the Canon....


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1155784

Just got my VPC-FH1 today. Using iMovie 08, my imported movie gets cut in half.

Is there a documented fix for this? I've seen it mentioned, but how to fix it is unclear.

I have no experience with iMovie 08. I can tell you that iMovie '09 works as described with the files from this camera.

Thanks for this guide.

If it works with iMovie, then we can assume that final cut express will work too.

The big question is - which only service support 60fps video???? :confused::confused:

Thanks for this guide.

If it works with iMovie, then we can assume that final cut express will work too.

The big question is - which online service support 60fps video????

ffmpeg handles 60fps and mp4 files. I know, not imovie. But it runs on linux, PC, Mac (OSX), and other things. Knowing what to do with a CLI application on the other hand.

To address the advanced zoom. Past 10x (optical) it does a bit of digital zoom (even with digital zoom disabled), but it's still within the MP rating of the sensor, so it's not that bad. BUT... stabilization is so evident at max zoom (regardless of camcorder), and with the low bitrate codec, it does get a bit fuzzy with any zoom IMO. Stabilization can really help keep this under control. I'm still amazed at what my Spider Brace does for stabilization and therefor image quality, even at max zoom. Taking that Z axis rotation out of handheld does wonders. And having three widespread brace points instead of one.

ok i really want to buy this cam
im not using it on a mac ill me using it on a windows pc

but im confused.
what are the differences between the vpc-fh1 and the vpc-fh1A?
i was on the B&H website and i searched sanyo vpc-fh1 and it came up as discontinued and when you click on it they send you to the replacement model that is the vpc-fh1A

so i just need to clear that up

The FH1A is the newer model. Added iFrame support and probably some other improvements.

-----

The Sanyo has stabilization (EIS). So it's not like it doesn't have any stabilization. As long as you can hold the cam steady, it should come out alright. It's just not as good of stabilization as others. There's always software to digitally stabilize in post. And if you can take wrists and fingers out of the equation it always helps.

Hopefully not too great a forum faux pas to revive this old thread. But just wanted to thank you for this helpful post. I was able to convert my 1080p clip from my Panasonic TM700, and make a nice quicktime movie.
When I try to take this movie into iDVD and make an SD DVD, the results are quite bad. Lots of artifact, not sure what to call it, moire, or wavy lines, especially over straight thin objects like cables, and rails. I tried share to iDVD and share to Media Browser, at several settings, but none really what I would call satisfactory. Have you found anything to be successful?