I got a new green tube from Greg Eisemann for my G90 recently and finally made time to install it and do a first pass calibration.

Wow.

The green tube I had been using was relatively low hour and showed no wear, but what I didn’t know before buying the projector was that it was not an LUG tube but rather an LCP. The difference in overall picture quality between the new LUG and old LCP is staggering.

When I got the G90 a couple years ago it took me a while to discover that the green tube was not a LUG or LQF. After a lot of effort trying to get the EM focus dialed in I never was able to get the green to focus as tight as the red - close, but never quite as tight. Once it was revealed that it was an LCP it made sense that it wasn’t user error on my part but the larger aperture in the electron gun.

The new P19LUG Boeing tube I got from Greg Eisemann is amazing.

After letting it wear in and getting the mechanical alignment and optical focus set I made a quick pass at the EM focus. Scan lines, super easily, right away even up in the corners. It brought a tear to my eye.

I reset all the registration values and setup the geometry from scratch. Everything fell into place and it was great to see the red and green overlap without the green bleeding out on either side!

The new tube also has the more correct green c-element, and doing the HCFR stuff showed that in the CIE chart right away. Getting the grayscale dialed in actually has me using a lower Gain value for green than I had before - which I guess might confirm some of the observations people have made about these tubes being a little brighter. I was expecting to have to bump the green gain up or drop the R/B to compensate for the new c-element but that wasn’t the case.

Another thing that was obvious right away doing the color calibration was how smooth the new green was compared to the variation in phosphor grain the old one had. From a distance white fields looked white with the old one, but when you got right up to the screen you could see how much small variation there was in the green phosphor grain. The new one is super consistent and smooth, even when you get right up to the screen.

After doing this first pass setup we had some friends over and watched Slumdog Millionaire on Blu-Ray. I’ve seen the movie before, as had my wife but it was new to our guests. Before we watched the movie my wife had teased me a little bit about having put a lot of time and money into replacing a green tube that looked “perfectly fine” and our friends who had been over to see lots of movies also said they never thought there could be that much of an improvement over the way it had looked before. When it was over, they had different things to say… “It looks so much clearer now!”

Huge thanks to Greg Eiseman!

The projector has always looked very good, and I was hoping the new tube would be an improvement – but my expectations have been significantly exceeded.

I’m a very satisfied customer and would encourage anyone thinking of getting a tube to talk to Greg.

Kris

I got a green P19LUG from Greg as well, it is no surprise that it is the only tube in my 1209s that I can pull in visible scan lines at a severely compressed 1920x800p 2.40:1 raster( vertical size on 03) my other 2 tubes are P19LUGs as well and they are razor sharp but this goes to another level with this green from Greg

Gregs tubes are special and they are not at a special level price either, very very pleased here as well

-Gary

I am also very impressed with Greg's P19lug in my Runco 1100. It is extremely sharp and of all this tubes I have installed this one "dialed in" the most easily.

Nice write up. Thanks for the info Kris.

I am also very impressed with Greg's P19lug in my Runco 1100. It is extremely sharp and of all this tubes I have installed this one "dialed in" the most easily.

I have to agree with you. I'm very, very impressed.

Hi,

The tubes I get are hand tested and have a special gun made for flight simulation.

They have a very small beam width compaired to a standard P19lug.

They are a little more expensive but worth the extra $150 dollars over the Chinese made ones my competitors are selling.

Benefits of Simulation grade

-No Phosphor failure
-Brighter
-Better Phosphor hard to burn
-Tighter Beam
- Less break-in required
- Finer grain Phosphor for a smooth detailed image

Let me know if I can help you. We have never had one ever returned.

http://www.boeing.com/commercial/techsvcs/boeingtech/bts_simz.html

www.eisemann-theater.com

Greg

I am running a special Sale on Boeing
P19lug Simulation grade tubes for AVS members. Please state you are a AVS member to get the discount price.

Sale Valid December 21 thru Jan 21

$1030.00

For the holidays

I bulk ordered a batch to get the price down. Once supply's are used up the price will go up.

Greg

My Tube supplier now has a better sharper replacement for the P16 8 inch tube.

Its supposed to be 40% better.

If anyone wants to do a review let me know.

Greg

Which P16 8" tube Greg?

P16LJE07 for an XG?

P16LJE08 for a G70?

I may be interested Greg, I queried you A couple months ago through Email about your Sim grade P16's for my G70..

Cheers...

You can't fit PT18s to a G70, they are a thick necked tube.

So are the P16's Greg is talking about above I guess, I was just TRYING TO MAKE A POINT ABOUT CORRECT TUBE LABELLING.

You can't fit PT18s to a G70, they are a thick necked tube.

So are the P16's Greg is talking about above I guess, I was just TRYING TO MAKE A POINT ABOUT CORRECT TUBE LABELLING.

:D yeah Speed typing, Fixed..

Cheers..

I "think" Gregs P16's are the long/thick necked Barco/Marquee versions not the Sony/XG shorty's?

Email me on the G70 tubes on my website

The P16 is too large to fit but they most likely have the one you need.

I can get tubes quite cheap now as they are stocking up.

Greg

Hey Greg, do you carry any lower end tubes? I need a 07MSP for my Sony 1252.

Dustin

Email me on the G70 tubes on my website

The P16 is too large to fit but they most likely have the one you need.

I can get tubes quite cheap now as they are stocking up.

Greg Thanks Greg will do,

So the G70 (P16/08's) you Can get hold of offer the Same Higher performance as the
Sim Grade 8"Tubes you are refering to ?..

Cheers..

so, no XG tubes then

I can have one made for you.

Email my website for information.

Cost will likely be aprox $1100.00

If they have some in stock I can get cheaper.

I hope that helps

Greg, Could you make enough room in your PM box for one more PM?

I'm hearing great things about the green simulator LUG, but are the red and blue versions equally as sharp?


It'd be hard for me to justify spending the money as the LCPs in my 9500LC have under
400 hours on them. They're new for all intents and purposes. But I will admit, as
my quest is always for higher resolving power, and I've done some cool stuff to get it,
I wouldn't mind scoring a set for myself. Too bad it's a luxury I really can't afford or justify at this moment.

Maybe Obama will give me a set? :D

CJ

OK, here's my stupid question for the day. Why are you guys so horned up about more resolving power than the LCP's can produce? I know for a fact that LCP's can produce visable scan lines on a 100 inch screen at 1080P from a normal seating position. I don't want to see scan lines any more than I want to see screen door effect. I would have to de-tune the projector to make it watchable.

Because it's never possible to have too MUCH resolving power, but it IS possible to have too LITTLE. And, if your machine can EASILY resolve 1080p, it gives you a little leeway to have an IMPERFECT setup and still resolve 1080p. If your machine can JUST make 1080p, then the setup has to be perfect.

Personally, I'm hoping for 4K, someday. :D

CJ

Because it's never possible to have too MUCH resolving power, but it IS possible to have too LITTLE. And, if your machine can EASILY resolve 1080p, it gives you a little leeway to have an IMPERFECT setup and still resolve 1080p. If your machine can JUST make 1080p, then the setup has to be perfect.

Personally, I'm hoping for 4K, someday. :D

CJ

That's a crock. Let me get this straight. You'd rather spend 3K+ on a new set of tubes so you can do a crappy setup and still get a decent picture?
Good luck with that:D I'd rather save the money and invest in a couple of more hours to tweak the original tubes.

For the record, what per cent increase in focus should you expect with LUG's over LCP's? If you tell me it's a 100% increase, I want what you're smoking. If you tell me something more realistic like 5% and you're willing to pay 3K+ for it, I still want what you're smoking but you can pay for it;)
I still don't see the point in having more resolution power than you can see from the normal seating distance unless it's for bragging rights. Let's just whip it out and measure it:p

Hey, if I'm going to buy a spare set of tubes, I can get these hand-selected LUGs for just a few percent more than a set of LCPs from VDC, and probably cheaper than LUGs from VDC. Why not get the better tubes?

We all know that setups drift with time. You could get a 5 percent drift in your setup
with the hand selected LUGs and still be able to fully resolve 1080p. But you may lose
your ability to resolve 1080p fully if you experience just 1 percent drift with LCP tubes.
(Speaking figuratively, not actually trying to say those are the actual percentages.)


The difference is how often you'll have to tweak your setup when its resolution capacity
has degraded due to drifting.


Regardless, if I'm going to pay for new tubes, I'd pay a small premium for better tubes.

CJ

chip hows your set of 9M198PT Thomas tubes looking?

http://homepage.mac.com/nashou.66/.Pictures/Marquee%20Upgrade%20Pictures/DSCF0585.JPG.jpg

Super sharp i bet ;)

Nashou

The simulation LUGS are very sharp and very bright.

The glass is very straight so you can get the corners dialed in better.

I have no problem using them and they don't drift on any unit I have used them in. At 1080p they are a must the LCP will never do 1080p from my testing.

I have never seen a LCP do much over 720 with good results. You might see scan lines but it wont resolve the fine details.

If you need LCP I can order them from my supplier. They are cheaper aprox $700-$800?

Have to check customers always want simulation grade LUG.

More tube reviews

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1134455&highlight=


Greg

Hi Greg,
I was wondering Did you receive my Email?..

Cheers..

Please send to website

greg@eisemann-theater.com

my inbox is full

IS that the G70 tubes?

My reply was since the neck is smaller I assume they use a different gun.

That being said the simulation grade gun used in the 8 inch P16 and LUG wont fit.

So I assume the G70 tubes will be the same resolution as the original.

You are welcome to test one and post here. Since you post I can give you a discount.

I hope that helps

Greg

Hi Greg, Thanks for the reply yes its the Guy with the G70 tubes :D
I contacted you at your Email address above yesterday..

I have never seen a LCP do much over 720 with good results. You might see scan lines but it wont resolve the fine details.



fine details between the lines? :)

isn't this a bit exagerated?

My own experiences with new LCPs has been very positive. When I set up my own 9500LC upon installation after rebuilding it, I ran my final setup at 2048x1536 in 16:9 mode. One on, one off pixel patterns were fully resolved as far as the eye was concerned. How much sharper do you need it to be?

The Tube factory reported they can make the G70 tubes.

Is there any interest in G70 tubes?

Greg

Greg or those of you who have installed these.. When installing the new tube do you need to break the tube in by running full white screen for x number of hours to season the phosphor and reduce a tendency to burn in a pattern?

If YES, what is the sequence? On rebuilt tubes I've done something like start at 20% contrast for maybe 72hrs, then step it up to 30% for x hours, and so forth with 60% being the last course. This is done with the tube electronically defocused to avoid buring in scan lines.

Greg or those of you who have installed these.. When installing the new tube do you need to break the tube in by running full white screen for x number of hours to season the phosphor and reduce a tendency to burn in a pattern?

If YES, what is the sequence? On rebuilt tubes I've done something like start at 20% contrast for maybe 72hrs, then step it up to 30% for x hours, and so forth with 60% being the last course. This is done with the tube electronically defocused to avoid buring in scan lines.

I would break in ANY new CRT tube. That doesn't change no matter whose or what tube you're installing, it's just good practice if you want to get a long trouble free life.;)

Thanks, what kind of process do you use? Do you run a white screen out of focus and 30/30 brightness/contrast? For how many hours?

Weren't the OEM Sony tubes that came complete with liquid coupling
broken in at the factory ?..

Thanks, what kind of process do you use? Do you run a white screen out of focus and 30/30 brightness/contrast? For how many hours?

I used to put NEW tubes in every projector I sold. On those projectors, I used a number of hours aligning the yokes, etc. When I was all finished, (and I certainly DIDN'T align and converge every frequency on the ROM, like Sony had to do. I only did the frequencies that would be used for HT) I ran an ALL WHITE defocused screen at about 30% contrast/Bright for about 15 hours and then rechecked convergence and some other adjustments. Then I ran a white screen again at 75% cont./brt. for another 5 hours and recheck and touched up convergence. I then told the buyer to run as low a contrast setting they could for the first 50 hours before cranking it up (which I don't mean literally ;))for best results.

Just make sure when you run an all white screen you run at a low frequency and scanning is set to FILL the entire raster. Sony WHITE SCREEN setting in the menu is preset at the frequency and scans the whole tube face. While preset some people change the setting while fooling with projector settings.:rolleyes:

Weren't the OEM Sony tubes that came complete with liquid coupling
broken in at the factory ?

I've heard that "rumor" before, but there's no truth to it. On their (former :) CRT assembly line they just ran the projector for about 30 minutes to stabilize the unit at the Alignment Station and then just started their total alignment, which had to be done for ALL their preset frequencies. While I don't know how long it took, it was a substantial amount of time. Sony didn't even run new tubes. Whatever "burn in", if you could even call it that, was the fast QC test that's done during the tube manufacturing process.

I used to put NEW tubes in every projector I sold. On those projectors, I used a number of hours aligning the yokes, etc. When I was all finished, (and I certainly DIDN'T align and converge every frequency on the ROM, like Sony had to do. I only did the frequencies that would be used for HT) I ran an ALL WHITE defocused screen at about 30% contrast/Bright for about 15 hours and then rechecked convergence and some other adjustments. Then I ran a white screen again at 75% cont./brt. for another 5 hours and recheck and touched up convergence. I then told the buyer to run as low a contrast setting they could for the first 50 hours before cranking it up (which I don't mean literally ;))for best results.
Hi Bruce, good to see you around.

Question, with your break in procedure. Do you allow the white image to go off the tube face, or do you feel that this can cause tube implosion? Do you stop the white field at the edge of the phosphor, or just let it dump off the sides?

On the G90, do you still suggest using 75/75 brightness/contrast for the last five hours? I only ask because the G90 has such high drive, it seems that 75 on brightness may get the tube really hot and I worry about implosion especially with the contrast near default.

On the G90, do you lower the gains to what is desired for around D65 before the break in, or do you leave them at the default which is MAX for green and blue?

Thanks!

craigr

running a tube at full White field, even with contrast reduced, just makes me nervous. I've done it of course but I've also seen some hint of wear with 20% contrast after 10 hours, though that might have been a re-built tube.
I know on a Barco it will do 10,20,30, and finally 50% output in intervals of a few seconds each, then shut off the beam and start over. I think it would be worth writing a little program or routine to do this as opposed to just letting the tube run with no time for the Phosphor to recover no?

Hi Bruce, good to see you around.

Question, with your break in procedure. Do you allow the white image to go off the tube face, or do you feel that this can cause tube implosion? Do you stop the white field at the edge of the phosphor, or just let it dump off the sides?

On the G90, do you still suggest using 75/75 brightness/contrast for the last five hours? I only ask because the G90 has such high drive, it seems that 75 on brightness may get the tube really hot and I worry about implosion especially with the contrast near default.

On the G90, do you lower the gains to what is desired for around D65 before the break in, or do you leave them at the default which is MAX for green and blue?

Thanks!

craigr

NEVER go off the face of the tube, since if run at a high contrast setting too long might crack the tube or implode (if you're really unlucky....right TERRY?:D). You want the raster as large as it can go without going off the face. Of course you have to have all the keystone removed in order to to it.

I think 60-70 is enough on a G90, but three hours is plenty in most cases. I once remove a 16:9 burn in on a G70 using a mask and running at 80 for just 90 minutes.:)

Running at D65 is fine, I don't think it makes much difference. If you feel that the D65 setting result in a much lower gain on Blue and Red you could run at 75 instead of 60-70, but again, I really don't think it makes that much difference. If you're trying to remove some burn-in already there, then I would turn down the gains on the tubes without the burn.:)

Lots of great info. Can I summarize the process as follows:

perform yoke alignment
hourmeter B/C Level Focus image
0->15 30% defocused all-white squared to face (0 keystone) Do not overscan tube edges
recheck convergence, astig
16->18 65% defocused all-white squared to face (0 keystone) Do not overscan tube edges
20->70 ~50 Focused run at reduced contrast for 1st 50 hours of use

NEVER go off the face of the tube, since if run at a high contrast setting too long might crack the tube or implode (if you're really unlucky....right TERRY?:D). You want the raster as large as it can go without going off the face. Of course you have to have all the keystone removed in order to to it.

I think 60-70 is enough on a G90, but three hours is plenty in most cases. I once remove a 16:9 burn in on a G70 using a mask and running at 80 for just 90 minutes.:)

Running at D65 is fine, I don't think it makes much difference. If you feel that the D65 setting result in a much lower gain on Blue and Red you could run at 75 instead of 60-70, but again, I really don't think it makes that much difference. If you're trying to remove some burn-in already there, then I would turn down the gains on the tubes without the burn.:)

I usually run defocused at MAX, and use 30/30 contrast/brightness. However, I run clear off the face of the tube for several sessions of three to five hours. I don't think a tube will implode if it's magnetically defocused.

I sometimes follow with 75IRE at 80/50 contrast/brightness. But for this I stay inside the face of the tube (right near the edge) even though I remain defocused.

craigr

Lots of great info. Can I summarize the process as follows:

perform yoke alignment
hourmeter B/C Level Focus image
0->15 30% defocused all-white squared to face (0 keystone) Do not overscan tube edges
recheck convergence, astig
16->18 65% defocused all-white squared to face (0 keystone) Do not overscan tube edges
20->70 ~50 Focused run at reduced contrast for 1st 50 hours of use


Perfect, couldn't have said it better.;)

I usually run defocused at MAX, and use 30/30 contrast/brightness. However, I run clear off the face of the tube for several sessions of three to five hours. I don't think a tube will implode if it's magnetically defocused.

I sometimes follow with 75IRE at 80/50 contrast/brightness. But for this I stay inside the face of the tube (right near the edge) even though I remain defocused.

craigr

I'd be afraid to run off the tube face, especially with expensive tubes like in the G90. Although I've never had a tube crack or implode (but then I've never run off the face), I've heard too many stories from others who have had problems. Maybe I'm just paranoid. However, as long as you set the raster outside the maximum "normal" running area, why take the chance?:)

Just the term "Simulation grade " sounds so cool!

It would probably help to understand that the detail IS in the lines and NOT in the space between them.;)

It would probably help to understand that the detail IS in the lines and NOT in the space between them.;)


Hey Chippy, How's it dripping.....the oil that is?:D

Simulation grade has a much better glass and better dot pitch, better gun for CRT projectors.

http://www.eisemann-theater.com/index.php?option=displaypage&Itemid=83&op=page&SubMenu=

Also our Barco MODS for 909, Cine9, 808, 1209 etc.

We have the best HDMI card on the market for Barco and one of our customers said his 909 with the mods now looks twice as good as his pioneer elite plasma

I just had to chme in since im not a pro of CRT's...

The tubes can implode if the gun inside the tube is shooting off the face? :eek:

WOW!

I knew CRT's imploded if they were damaged by something since they have a vacuum and all, but I never thought that having the settings on a projector out of wack (Significantly I presume) can make the tube actually implode :)

Also greg, from reading this thread, am I understanding correctly that depending on which projector I have, that you can have BRAND NEW tubes manufactured still?

I apologize for all the stupid questions ive asked, but Im rather new to CRT projection technology, and am very interested in learning all about them (First CRT projector will be here in mid june :D )

I envy all of you who can afford these new simulator grade tubes :cool: the picture some of you see must be so nice to stare at, that staring at the real thing may actually look worse :p

At its best, TODAY, the CRT still offers the BEST possible image quality. Period. But the best units are very expensive. This applies to digitals, too.

CRT implosion from having the beam get off the phosphor and onto bare non-grounded glass IS possible but it is also extremely rare.

Yes, new CRTs in all the most commonly used projection types are still available. There is stock on just about every type you can name and the most popular types are still in production right now.

Though the CRT (particularly front projection) has shrunk to a niche market, it is far from dead and over with. VDC Display Systems is still making brand new Marquees and still taking orders for more. They'll be busy for years to come. The installed base of existing CRT projectors is probably still INCREASING due to projectors getting into the
surplus market after .gov replaces them with new ones in their simulators.

I reserve any comment on the "simulator grade" tubes simply because I have not had
any chance to evaluate them personally. I would evaluate them against new production
standard, non-hand-selected LUGs made by Clinton Tubes, a VDC subsidiary, which
are made on the original Panasonic tooling and equipment to Panasonic specs. They
are fully equal to the Panasonic labelled tubes and would be a valid basis for comparison
with the "simulation grade" tubes.


CJ

Wow, very cool info. I wish I could afford a marquee 9500LC, but I think the NEC 9PG will be a good start. Its nice to know that theres a company still making them at least :D

So who buys NEW ones? Mine started life as a late model 8000 chassis that I upgraded, rebuilt, and converted. It had over 49,000 hours on the counter when I got it and I paid (I think) 350 bucks for it before I started working on it.

I got a bargain. But only because I did the work myself.

CJ

If you have new tubes, aren't they broken in at the factory? I think you guys are taking life off the tubes needlessly....

Simulation grade tubes have better glass and phophor that they dont really need that much break-in.

To get the extra 30%, I recommend a mild break-in of 30 Contrast 30 Brightness for about 9 hours with max raster. Do not fold over the sides. Some other dealer's recommendations on break-in will actually damage the tube so be careful of who is giving the recommendations.

My new Mods for Barco are making HUGE improvements as I am using the latest semi-conductors. My new V14 mod set and internal HDMI card have much better clarity than my older DVI card. I am also offering discounts to people who have my older DVI and earlier version mod sets.

We also have a new, upgraded G90 that has been fully modified and with simulation-grade tubes that create a STUNNINGLY VIVID picture!

For more information visit:

http://www.eisemann-theater.com/index.php?option=displaypage&Itemid=78&op=page&SubMenu=

http://www.eisemann-theater.com/index.php?option=displaypage&Itemid=73&op=page

I recently purchased a G90 from Eisemann-Theater and I paid a little extra to get the simulation grade tubes. Though I was a little leary, I also went in for the optional mod set that was offered to me. I have to say WOW! I have another G90 that I am moving to another room in the house, and the picture quality on the G90 with the mod set is significantly higher. I was watching Avatar, and was totally blown away by the difference in the two projectors! I am planning on getting the mod set for my other G90 that I am moving. I spoke with Greg several times before buying the projector, and he kept me in the loop throughout the whole process. He answered all my questions and was very personable. He even gave me a warranty on the projector. I highly recommend these mods!

I am also selling a working G90 that I was going to use for parts. PM me if you're interested.

So the Boeing P16/08 tubes for the G70's never panned out Greg?

Cheers...

So the Boeing P16/08 tubes for the G70's never panned out Greg?

Cheers...

If thats the case that would be a bummer, as I am currently looking for a G70. It would be nice to have Sim grade CRT's to flaunt :cool:

I have a great G90 for sale BTW!

The G70 tubes were put on hold because the orders were a little week.

I will check with the factory now to see if I can get some still in low volume.

What color did you need?

IF we can get some larger orders going they will be more willing to start up production.

Greg

Thanks for your reply Greg, I was afraid that this may of been the Case concerning the Boeing P16's..

I would think that Green would be the most popular tube as it has the gratest impact on the pic quality no?,
If I could see even A 10% difference between the stock Green OEM P16 G70 tube & A Green Boeing p16 I would then go ahead replacing the Blue/Red with Boeing Tubes..

Cheers..

I just picked up my first CRT projector, a Sony1272Q, and I must say its an awesome machine, on 480i the picture is actually stunning! I am waiting for my BNC to VGA cable to try it with a computer and the xbox 360,...

While the Red tube on the projector seems to be in fantastic unburned condition, the greend and blue (more specifically the blue) have some noticeable burn, I only noticed this After calibration because the previous owner didnt even have the image centered on the tubes... Now that I have the image centered, I can see a 'better looking" horizontal bar on the top of the screen, its not THAT noticeable... however its noticeably annoying to me...

I dont suppose that theres a new blue tube lying around? Theres one on ebay for $69 shipped and it has much less wear than mine, but if I do replace the tube, I would like to get a new one if the price is right!

I just picked up my first CRT projector, a Sony1272Q, and I must say its an awesome machine, on 480i the picture is actually stunning! I am waiting for my BNC to VGA cable to try it with a computer and the xbox 360,...

While the Red tube on the projector seems to be in fantastic unburned condition, the greend and blue (more specifically the blue) have some noticeable burn, I only noticed this After calibration because the previous owner didnt even have the image centered on the tubes... Now that I have the image centered, I can see a 'better looking" horizontal bar on the top of the screen, its not THAT noticeable... however its noticeably annoying to me...

I dont suppose that theres a new blue tube lying around? Theres one on ebay for $69 shipped and it has much less wear than mine, but if I do replace the tube, I would like to get a new one if the price is right!

That's a tough tube to find used, especially in a condition that makes it worthwhile changing. As for new, I haven't seen those tubes NEW in nearly 5 years. Those tubes were made by Sony and were NOT rebuildable by VDC like the Panasonic tubes. When I used to sell CRT projectors, I only sold them with new tubes installed. 6 months ago I junked a 1271 and a 1252 because the blue tubes were shot and I couldn't even find decent used ones to install.

btw-Red tubes virtually ever have or show any wear.

I would be VERY careful about buying a used tube on Ebay unless it was someone that was known in the business.;)

Well I only paid a buck for the projector and the road case, the tube isnt THAT bad, but as mentioned since the previous owner didnt have the image in the center of the tube face, and I do.... it is now noticeable.

And I dont think the seller knew too much about CRT's since he cut the Red HV wire on it insted of unplugging it... :confused:

Well I only paid a buck for the projector and the road case, the tube isnt THAT bad, but as mentioned since the previous owner didnt have the image in the center of the tube face, and I do.... it is now noticeable.

And I dont think the seller knew too much about CRT's since he cut the Red HV wire on it insted of unplugging it... :confused:

In that case I would use the existing tube and just stay WITHIN the "wear area" whether it's centered or not.

btw- you didn't say whether the wear was 4:3 or 16:9.

The wear is 16:9 by the looks of it :(

The wear is 16:9 by the looks of it :(

That's too bad.:( Sometimes you get lucky and the previous owner maximized the raster and was running 4:3. But I think you will STILL be happier keeping the raster WITHIN the wear area. It can get pretty annoying when the active picture goes from the worn area into the new unused area, that's why I think you should attempt to stay within the wear. It won't make all that much difference in light output and resolution.;)

I have a couple of Brand new GREEN

1272Q etc

Sony Tubes for the 808S and Other Sony projectors

These tubes are no longer made anymore.

So if you need some email me quick!!

http://www.eisemann-theater.com/index.php?option=displaypage&Itemid=83&op=page&SubMenu=

Greg

The factory approved G70 tubes

So let me know if you want a batch run anyone ??

Greg